Medford, NJ
My premium arrived today, box was in excellent shape but when I opened it up a screw fell out. Hopefully just an extra that fell in during production but i guess we’ll see after setup
(Topic ID: 248582)
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Jurassic Park (30th Anniversary LE)
Stern, 2023-
Jurassic Park (Limited Edition)
Stern, 2019
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Jurassic Park (Premium)
Stern, 2019
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Jurassic Park (Pro)
Stern, 2019
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Quoted from mbl1116:My premium arrived today, box was in excellent shape but when I opened it up a screw fell out. Hopefully just an extra that fell in during production but i guess we’ll see after setup
If I was working the box line, I would totally put a random screw or something in a box every once in awhile as a practical joke!
Quoted from pinheadpierre:If I was working the box line, I would totally put a random screw or something in a box every once in awhile as a practical joke!
Why bother? There’s always some at the bottom of the box or in the cab.
Quoted from Markharris2000:I often wonder how extensive the factory "QA/QC" process is? I can only imagine that they button it all up, plug it in, and play 2 or 3 balls, recording any obvious problems they observe to be fixed by the re-work team. I would like to be wrong, but the regularly posted NIB stories seem to confirm the QA/QC process is fairly minor...
I imagine the process is quick and not comprehensive.
But shipping is a big factor/issue, too.
When my dad received his Mando, there was a connecter that had come disconnected from the node board and the right flipper switch wasn't screwed into the cabinet. There's no way that would have passed QA. It was an easy fix for me, but if he was on his own, he would have been lost.
Quoted from TheNecromancer:Well, dealer offered phone support but nobody is coming out to fix it. Stern is email only, no phone support. I'll try emailing them. Dealer said that will likely send parts and I can try to install them. So basically for $10 grand I got a project pinball machine. Hell I don't even own a soldering iron.
I hear you.... I have 3 NIB Sterns and have been lucky.... a few parts were sent to me to install.... but damn..... for for the price....
There’s nothing like hitting that T-rex for the first time…took me way too long to get this game
Also, I’ve owned a few NIB Stern games but on this one it feels like the playfield glass is glued on…was terrified to pull it off
Quoted from scootss:Just arrived and damn it is fun!
I am surprised that three years in... the shooter rod spring it ships with is completely inadequate and the t-rex ramp doesn't register most fast moving shots.
But thanks to this group I was prepared [quoted image]
Same build date as mine, hope you have better luck! Remember, it starts out with people ooohing and aweing and then it turns to running and screaming....
Can we get a code update that changes the "Amber Pops" screen to say "Amber Poops" with a picture of Amber Heard?
Quoted from BrewinBombers:scootss where did you see the 'trex fast moving shot' fix?
There are two solutions that I have seen on here.
1) Add electrical tape to block part of the beam. Details here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/89#post-5454184
2) Add washers to raise the optos. Details here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/69#post-5337568
Anyone have an issue with tight glass? Got a new premium and no joke, I cannot get the glass back in. Never had an issue with the last 80 games I’ve had.
Remove the side rails and adjust the glass channels?
Quoted from NightTrain:Anyone have an issue with tight glass? Got a new premium and no joke, I cannot get the glass back in. Never had an issue with the last 80 games I’ve had.
Remove the side rails and adjust the glass channels?
Yes! got mine yesterday and nearly had a panic attack trying to slide it out
I joined the club today.
First issue is the service menu seems very jumpy. The buttons seem to ignore short presses sometimes, and act like a double press if I press slightly longer (not holding it in). I have a difficult time believing that it is normal to be so glitch for such old stable code.
Quoted from mbl1116:Yes! got mine yesterday and nearly had a panic attack trying to slide it out
Yeah it’s ridiculous. I’ve ready about this before. But I thought those people were crazy, stupid, or both!
Quoted from Gizmata:I joined the club today.
First issue is the service menu seems very jumpy. The buttons seem to ignore short presses sometimes, and act like a double press if I press slightly longer (not holding it in). I have a difficult time believing that it is normal to be so glitch for such old stable code.
This is happening on both my NIB GZ and JP
I’ll add that my right flipper seems a little weak. I can hit the Trex ramp but it almost needs to be perfect. I need to check the pitch again, but also considering checking the coil stops already
Quoted from NightTrain:Anyone have an issue with tight glass? Got a new premium and no joke, I cannot get the glass back in. Never had an issue with the last 80 games I’ve had.
Remove the side rails and adjust the glass channels?
They did have some flooding at the factory back at the end of April, so maybe extra humidity in the wood is causing it?
Quoted from KSP1138:Yep: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/279#post-6949627
They did have some flooding at the factory back at the end of April, so maybe extra humidity in the wood is causing it?
It’s not that. The cabinet it good. It’s the glass Channels being set in to tight. I removed the rails. Same problem. I’ll remove and reinstall the Channels and report back.
Quoted from NightTrain:It’s not that. The cabinet it good. It’s the glass Channels being set in to tight. I removed the rails. Same problem. I’ll remove and reinstall the Channels and report back.
Ok, curious how they can be adjusted. I thought there was a slot routed into the length of each side and the plastic channel had a fin on the bottom that sits into that which doesn't allow for much if any adjustment.
Melbourne
Quoted from scootss:There are two solutions that I have seen on here.
1) Add electrical tape to block part of the beam. Details here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/89#post-5454184
2) Add washers to raise the optos. Details here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/69#post-5337568
Just be aware that Stern have changed the ramp protector on the T-Rex ramp (the post you reference is for fixing the original setup), such that the new protector now includes a hole for the opto - whereby the adjusted the hole to be slightly higher eliminating the need to use the tape. Note that this opto is used in the Prem/LE's for triggering the T-Rex events and T-Rex catching the ball. With the newer machines over the last year there seemed to be more issues with the ramp-made opto behind the backboard
Quoted from NightTrain:You are totally right. Just found that out. Wtf?!
I'd be in touch with both my distributor and Stern asafp. As discussed above, the glass channel is NOT adjustable. Furthermore, it's not fixable. I'd be requesting a new machine if I were you (assuming it's not a problem with the glass itself). I'm not one of those picky jokers that worry about the slightest little imperfection either. But man, if you can't get the glass on and off...... there's a serious issue. Does the playfield raise and lower freely?? If the playfield is tight on one side or another, maybe the cabinet is out of square? That would cause the glass to bind.
Oh, here's a thought. Maybe with the rails off, slide the glass in and see if the opening in the glass channels is too narrow from top to bottom? You can't spread the channels any further left to right, but you could certainly work them "open" a bit from top to bottom. Or possibly buy some aftermarket glass channel and pop it in to see if it helps.
Edit: not top to bottom of the playfield, but top to bottom of the channel lips. In other words, upper lip and lower lip.
I feel the newly manufactured sterns have a slightly thicker glass. Feels and looks thicker than my sterns I’ve gotten a couple years ago.
Quoted from Green-Machine:I feel the newly manufactured sterns have a slightly thicker glass. Feels and looks thicker than my sterns I’ve gotten a couple years ago.
I was just about to ask if anyone has tried the glass from another game to see if it’s the thickness or a channel problem
Also, would HD glass be a different thickness?
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:I'd be in touch with both my distributor and Stern asafp. As discussed above, the glass channel is NOT adjustable. Furthermore, it's not fixable. I'd be requesting a new machine if I were you (assuming it's not a problem with the glass itself). I'm not one of those picky jokers that worry about the slightest little imperfection either. But man, if you can't get the glass on and off...... there's a serious issue. Does the playfield raise and lower freely?? If the playfield is tight on one side or another, maybe the cabinet is out of square? That would cause the glass to bind.
My glass is a pain to remove but it can be done. Just be grateful the rest of the game works. Good luck with a new machine, I can't even get an email response.
I just found out about the Invalid? multiball in this thread like a few days ago. I assumed that option was the same as "abort" and was just another way it is worded.
So I have done it twice since then and holy shit is that a fun multiball! It is just hectic as hell and I have on clue wtf to do in it lol. But it's been giving me decent payouts and I just got 86 million on my last one.
I'm going to check out the tilt forums instruction to see how it actually works.
Quoted from Green-Machine:I feel the newly manufactured sterns have a slightly thicker glass. Feels and looks thicker than my sterns I’ve gotten a couple years ago.
Quoted from mbl1116:I was just about to ask if anyone has tried the glass from another game to see if it’s the thickness or a channel problem
Also, would HD glass be a different thickness?
This might make sense then. I put the glass from my AIQ LE onto IMDN prem (made end of 2021) and its pretty loose comparatively. and vice versa its slightly snug.
Thanks for the suggestions. I checked the cabinet with a square and tape measure. It’s all good. Different glass does the same thing. Even Invisiglass.
I’ll request new glass channel trim from Stern and try that. Only other thing it could be is the routing for the trip channel isn’t straight.
Got the glass in, but it’s just super tight. At least it won’t rattle! Lol!
Quoted from Gizmata:I joined the club today.
First issue is the service menu seems very jumpy. The buttons seem to ignore short presses sometimes, and act like a double press if I press slightly longer (not holding it in). I have a difficult time believing that it is normal to be so glitch for such old stable code.
Had same issue on my rush. Emailed stern support and a new one arrived in a couple of weeks.
Quoted from Lermods:Had same issue on my rush. Emailed stern support and a new one arrived in a couple of weeks.
what did Stern actually send you - a new diag switch assembly? Did it include the entire coin door wire loom?
Quoted from Manny65:Just be aware that Stern have changed the ramp protector on the T-Rex ramp (the post you reference is for fixing the original setup), such that the new protector now includes a hole for the opto - whereby the adjusted the hole to be slightly higher eliminating the need to use the tape. Note that this opto is used in the Prem/LE's for triggering the T-Rex events and T-Rex catching the ball. With the newer machines over the last year there seemed to be more issues with the ramp-made opto behind the backboard
Very helpful. thank you!
If I have an issue with the skillshot not registering, would that be the opto behind the backboard? If so, is there a recommended fix/adjustment?
Quoted from scootss:Very helpful. thank you!
If I have an issue with the skillshot not registering, would that be the opto behind the backboard? If so, is there a recommended fix/adjustment?
Very easy to check if your optos are working.
Go into the switch test in the diag menu, roll a ball or just use your finger and wave it in front of all the optos and it should register the movement and show the name of the opto triggered on the LCD.
Quoted from NightTrain:Thanks for the suggestions. I checked the cabinet with a square and tape measure. It’s all good. Different glass does the same thing. Even Invisiglass.
I’ll request new glass channel trim from Stern and try that. Only other thing it could be is the routing for the trip channel isn’t straight.
Got the glass in, but it’s just super tight. At least it won’t rattle! Lol!
I'm going to put some upgraded speakers in mine tonight, so I'll confirm if my cabinet is square too. And measure both the glass and cabinet width. I did have some black gunk in my channels after I took the glass off. Not sure if that was from the glass rubbing, some overspray from paint, or something else.
I can get my glass off and on with suction cups, but it would add an extra degree of difficulty if I ever get a ball stuck during a good game. Definitely won't need the anti-rattle tape on this one.
Quoted from Manny65:what did Stern actually send you - a new diag switch assembly? Did it include the entire coin door wire loom?
Just the button assembly housing with a board inside. you just unplug the connector from the housing.
Mine was delivered yesterday...build date 5/24/22.....glass is fine. My distributor took it out of the box and checked it over before bringing it, so no problems yet. Now if I can just figure out what to do on it so it doesn't kick my butt quite so badly....lol.
Quoted from KSP1138:I'm going to put some upgraded speakers in mine tonight, so I'll confirm if my cabinet is square too. And measure both the glass and cabinet width. I did have some black gunk in my channels after I took the glass off. Not sure if that was from the glass rubbing, some overspray from paint, or something else.
I can get my glass off and on with suction cups, but it would add an extra degree of difficulty if I ever get a ball stuck during a good game. Definitely won't need the anti-rattle tape on this one.
Problem solved: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/what-is-on-the-line-at-stern-pinball-delays/page/54#post-6960101
If anyone has any ideas I'd love to hear what to try. I did check for loose connections behind the T-Rex and everything looks just fine. Almost seems to me as now the T-Rex doesn't line his jaws up with the ramp when he sets down to catch the ball. Maybe my imagination as now I'm looking for something wrong.
Any way, I made a short video of what the game does, hoping maybe someone else has been through this.
Thanks!
Just spit balling here, but the way it works is that the game knows there's a ball in the mouth of the dinosaur when the ball is blocking the beam from the optos that are in the mouth. If for some reason the ball isn't blocking that opto beam then the game wouldn't realize there's a ball in the mouth. That's the only thing I can think of for why it would hold onto it and cause a ball search every time. Can you check in switch test to see if a ball resting in the mouth is causing that opto to register? Maybe the emitter or receiver opto is out of alignment or maybe the spot where the ball rests in the mouth is slightly off for some reason (maybe the magnet in the mouth is slightly mis-aligned)? Again, just guessing but maybe something worth checking if you haven't already.
Quoted from TheNecromancer:If anyone has any ideas I'd love to hear what to try. I did check for loose connections behind the T-Rex and everything looks just fine. Almost seems to me as now the T-Rex doesn't line his jaws up with the ramp when he sets down to catch the ball. Maybe my imagination as now I'm looking for something wrong.
Any way, I made a short video of what the game does, hoping maybe someone else has been through this.Thanks!
If you go into game specific feature settings go to setting 340, which is middle position bias (or something like that). Going off memory if your trex is going down too far to the right go negative (-1 for example instead of factory default 0), and do the opposite if trex is going down too far to the right, etc. They allow you to really dial in this mech with these adjustments.
Will take a little fiddling, but this helped me tremendously.
Let me know if you arent understanding what I am telling you, and ill try and do better to walk you thought it.
Amersfoort
Quoted from mbrave77:Lost a screw and dont know what type of screw to order. Anyone know what type of screw for the trex ramp area? see pic
[quoted image]
Don't you think it would be wise to look for the lost screw first?
Quoted from mbrave77:Lost a screw and dont know what type of screw to order. Anyone know what type of screw for the trex ramp area? see pic
[quoted image]
If you can’t find the screw, it’s probably a 6-32 x 5/16 with a #6 washer
Ottawa, ON
Quoted from Markharris2000:If you can’t find the screw, it’s probably a 6-32 x 5/16 with a #6 washer
yup either 6 or 8-32, better to just order a bunch as these come un handy for when they go 'missing'.
I always have all sizes at hand!
Quoted from RetroGamerJP:EDIT - I managed to find a few copters on Amazon so if you are interested in getting one of these pre-modded and ready to drop into your machine, send me a PM.
Alternate process for Helicopter mod install (no grinding or sanding)
I got my helicopter in over the weekend and decided to install today. Many thanks to the brave souls before me who originally figured this out and shared with all of us... I wanted to see if I could find a way to install without having to grind away the bottom or deform the top in order for it to fit. Good news is, it can be done quite easily, and without having to take apart the copter. (unless you are trying to also do the cockpit light mod.
Basically with a pair of large needle-nose pliers, I grabbed the original rotor and with a couple of rocks back and forth, you can snap it off leaving a perfect guide hole. I also use the same pliers to snap off the lander gears. The remaining part of the landing gears may fall into the body of copter but they will come out later when you drill the larger holes.
Then on my drill press I used a 5/32" bit to go through the guide hole at top and straight down to create guide hole in bottom. Next, using a stepper bit on drill press I make a 1/2" hole through bottom plastic, this is the size of the shaft in the game you will be sliding copter over.
The trick to this method is to go with a larger hole on the top. Using the same stepper bit, I drill out top hole to a 5/8" hole, this allows for the washers and bearing to sit inside of the copter (instead of above it) and gives us the clearance needed without having to grind off the bottom of the copter.
You can see in the final pictures that the copter sits in perfectly with just enough clearance for the blades to spin and all without grinding away any material. You don't need to do anything to secure the copter, it naturally sits in the perfect spot and doesn't move at all. I also decided to remove the remaining hex posts (since they were only there to hold original helicopter plastic) and just put 6-32 nuts in place to clean that area up. I also did as others have done and placed a small dab of hot glue on the rear propeller to hold it in the perfect position to make sure the main rotor misses it during rotation.
Everything spins and functions as it should and it truly looks like it could have come from the factory this way.
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As a new JP owner I was bummed to find out that these Isla Nublar choppers are super hard to find. I used RetroGamerJP’s walkthrough though to do the mod on a different JP chopper. Not as cool as the Isla Nublar, but works effectively and way better than the plastic. Thanks Retro!
11B3F8BE-9E07-4A54-A7E8-6D3FC4371741 (resized).jpegQuoted from robbie:Don't you think it would be wise to look for the lost screw first?
Heh oh I did. I found the spacer and washer, but the screw is probably stuck to something magnetic somewhere.
Thanks everyone
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