(Topic ID: 248582)

Jurassic Park (Stern 2019 & 30th) Owners Club. Welcome! To Jurassic park.....

By CoolCatPinball

4 years ago


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#13951 1 year ago
Quoted from ralphs007:Does anyone use this stuff ? As long as none of the wire strands are broken, I'm guessing it'll be a good product to have in your toolbox?
[quoted image]

I've used something like that in the past (can't recall the exact brand). Best way to describe it is sort of a thick rubbery glue. Not like silicone.

#13952 1 year ago

Anyone know if the "lifetime plays" includes the "total challenge plays" count?

Just curious as I was looking at my stats and I have like 740 total lifetime plays, but then saw I had 108 challenge plays in a separate audit.

I wasn't sure if that 740 included the 108 or if it's more like 848 "total plays".

I also did lower the power of my 2 lower flippers from default 255 to 220 and definitely noticed a bit of a "slower" play which was helpful. I need to give it a bit more tries though to see how it feels over more than 45 mins of play. I also lowered my slingshots from 20 down to 17 to see if I have less BS balls go into the side outlanes from slingshots.

#13953 1 year ago

Is the right ramp stuck down beneath the entrance? I'm replacing all the rubbers and the one beneath the right ramp is the only one I can't figure out how to get to. I've undone everything holding the spiral wireform down but cant work out whats holding the ramp on or how to get to that damn last rubber! Can anyone help. Thanks

Inkedimage0_LI (resized).jpgInkedimage0_LI (resized).jpgimage1 (resized).jpegimage1 (resized).jpeg
#13954 1 year ago
Quoted from NoSkills:

Is the right ramp stuck down beneath the entrance? I'm replacing all the rubbers and the one beneath the right ramp is the only one I can't figure out how to get to. I've undone everything holding the spiral wireform down but cant work out whats holding the ramp on or how to get to that damn last rubber! Can anyone help. Thanks[quoted image][quoted image]

There are 2 and only 2 nuts holding the ramp down, they are under the pf by the flap (on tbe top of the pf).Do not force anything until you undo these.

#13955 1 year ago
Quoted from purbeast:

Anyone know if the "lifetime plays" includes the "total challenge plays" count?
Just curious as I was looking at my stats and I have like 740 total lifetime plays, but then saw I had 108 challenge plays in a separate audit.
I wasn't sure if that 740 included the 108 or if it's more like 848 "total plays".
I also did lower the power of my 2 lower flippers from default 255 to 220 and definitely noticed a bit of a "slower" play which was helpful. I need to give it a bit more tries though to see how it feels over more than 45 mins of play. I also lowered my slingshots from 20 down to 17 to see if I have less BS balls go into the side outlanes from slingshots.

It's in there already, everytime you hit start is 1 game

#13956 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

There are 2 and only 2 nuts holding the ramp down, they are under the pf by the flap (on tbe top of the pf).Do not force anything until you undo these.

Under the playfield of course lol thanks

#13957 1 year ago

Where do you grab the power for a tilt topper? Just picked one up second hand without instructions. Thanks!

20220529_200837 (resized).jpg20220529_200837 (resized).jpg
#13959 1 year ago

Haven't spent much time here in a while, but I'm seeing some ramps with decals on them on some old posts. Anyone have a link to a seller? Specifically the right ramp with the dino footprints? Thanks

#13960 1 year ago

My distributor hasn’t gotten His allotment yet. Hopefully this week.

#13961 1 year ago
Quoted from callmesteam:

Haven't spent much time here in a while, but I'm seeing some ramps with decals on them on some old posts. Anyone have a link to a seller? Specifically the right ramp with the dino footprints? Thanks

Mr_Tantrum most likely sells his version - here's a pic https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/160#post-5960843

#13963 1 year ago

Right Orbit Opto stopped working (O shot) - This is not the airball problem. I go into switch test. If I roll a ball by other optos, TREX ramp, left orbit etc... Switch test triggers the motion. If I roll a ball by the Opto in the O shot nothing happens. Is it simply a matter of ordering new Opto parts shown below, the emitter and receiver, or is there something else to possibly check or test?

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#13964 1 year ago
Quoted from ZoraShinoda:

Right Orbit Opto stopped working (O shot) - This is not the airball problem. I go into switch test. If I roll a ball by other optos, TREX ramp, left orbit etc... Switch test triggers the motion. If I roll a ball by the Opto in the O shot nothing happens. Is it simply a matter of ordering new Opto parts shown below, the emitter and receiver, or is there something else to possibly check or test?[quoted image]

If you’ve reseated the connectors to confirm they are tight, then my next guess is that the emitter burned out. LEDs burnout all the time. It’s a simple part to buy and swap.

#13965 1 year ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

If you’ve reseated the connectors to confirm they are tight, then my next guess is that the emitter burned out. LEDs burnout all the time. It’s a simple part to buy and swap.

Also check the solder points on the optos. Could just be a detached wire.

#13966 1 year ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

Also check the solder points on the optos. Could just be a detached wire.

Will do, thanks for the tips

#13968 1 year ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

Hey the link to your mods appears to be broken...?

The links are working for me...

#13969 1 year ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

Also check the solder points on the optos. Could just be a detached wire.

Also clean with windex on a q-tip. Unlikely to be this on a recent machine, but it’s the easiest thing to try to rule out a dirty opto.

#13970 1 year ago
Quoted from EStroh:

The links are working for me...

never mind

#13971 1 year ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

Not the links above....the link I have to his mod ordering page

I don't openly publish the link, so please edit/remove from your last post. I will PM you with the current one (the ramp decal is not there, but I will sell for $20 with US shipping).

#13972 1 year ago
Quoted from scootss:

Also clean with windex on a q-tip. Unlikely to be this on a recent machine, but it’s the easiest thing to try to rule out a dirty opto.

Not a bad thought will try this as well.
Also depends I guess on how you qualify recent, I've had the game for a year now, bought it NIB and have 3,000 plays on it.

Totally unrelated to this but I never understand when a machine comes up for sale and it has 200 plays on it, I put more than that on my machines in the first week.

#13973 1 year ago
Quoted from ZoraShinoda:

Totally unrelated to this but I never understand when a machine comes up for sale and it has 200 plays on it, I put more than that on my machines in the first week.

Same here!

#13974 1 year ago
Quoted from ZoraShinoda:

I never understand when a machine comes up for sale and it has 200 plays on it, I put more than that on my machines in the first week.

The world is full of liars

#13975 1 year ago

Joining the club in a few days. I was about to purchase the comet LED upgrade kit for my DP (cool white to sunlight and a few spotlights) and I was wondering if I should buy some extra for a JP prem?

Also interested to hear any “must have” mods, or day 1 adjustments. If people want to message directly to avoid cluttering the thread I’m good with that…too many posts to go back and search through

#13976 1 year ago
Quoted from ZoraShinoda:

Also depends I guess on how you qualify recent

Fair point…tends to be an issue for older games that were in a smoky bar for part of their life. Haven’t heard of opto cleaning much on new sterns, but worth a try.

#13977 1 year ago
Quoted from mbl1116:

Joining the club in a few days. I was about to purchase the comet LED upgrade kit for my DP (cool white to sunlight and a few spotlights) and I was wondering if I should buy some extra for a JP prem?
Also interested to hear any “must have” mods, or day 1 adjustments. If people want to message directly to avoid cluttering the thread I’m good with that…too many posts to go back and search through

Me too. I watched part of the YouTube video with Elwin explaining the rules. He totally lost me after a handful of minutes, maybe because I haven’t had much time on the game. I’m gonna have to absorb this in digestible little pieces.

#13978 1 year ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

Me too. I watched part of the YouTube video with Elwin explaining the rules. He totally lost me after a handful of minutes, maybe because I haven’t had much time on the game. I’m gonna have to absorb this in digestible little pieces.

3 sets of modes: Paddocks (catching Dinos), Trex Events, and Control Room modes. Each one has a mini-wizard mode after playing them all so that is a nice singular goal to focus on.

Paddocks: spell MAP by shooting white shots, start at left ramp.

Trex events: hit truck captive ball enough to spell TREX, start at left ramp. First Trex event is a 2ball MB.

Control Room modes: Started at C shot when lit, different criteria lights it, but if you see it lit, go for it.

And then there are two Main MBs:
Chaos: Spell CHAOS from left to right, start at Amber Target when lit

Raptor: Shoot Raptor Pit a bunch of times, when the Flasher are near seizure-inducing, next shot starts it.

I know its alot, but thats kind of why this one of the best machines ever. Focus on one thing at a time and get a feel for it and when you understand the basics, you can go about stacking a few things together.

For example, you can get a paddock going with a control room or trex mode then start Chaos MB and go to town.

#13979 1 year ago
Quoted from shaub:

3 sets of modes: Paddocks (catching Dinos), Trex Events, and Control Room modes. Each one has a mini-wizard mode after playing them all so that is a nice singular goal to focus on.
Paddocks: spell MAP by shooting white shots, start at left ramp.
Trex events: hit truck captive ball enough to spell TREX, start at left ramp. First Trex event is a 2ball MB.
Control Room modes: Started at C shot when lit, different criteria lights it, but if you see it lit, go for it.
And then there are two Main MBs:
Chaos: Spell CHAOS from left to right, start at Amber Target when lit
Raptor: Shoot Raptor Pit a bunch of times, when the Flasher are near seizure-inducing, next shot starts it.
I know its alot, but thats kind of why this one of the best machines ever. Focus on one thing at a time and get a feel for it and when you understand the basics, you can go about stacking a few things together.
For example, you can get a paddock going with a control room or trex mode then start Chaos MB and go to town.

This is a great crash course. Thank you! Please do this for all my games lol. I should get JP and a used IM this week so super excited to learn my way around them and this is a nice starter course. I have a GZ, AIQ and DP which I get, and a SW and Rush which I don't yet. So much pinball and so little time.

#13980 1 year ago
Quoted from shaub:

3 sets of modes: Paddocks (catching Dinos), Trex Events, and Control Room modes. Each one has a mini-wizard mode after playing them all so that is a nice singular goal to focus on.
Paddocks: spell MAP by shooting white shots, start at left ramp.
Trex events: hit truck captive ball enough to spell TREX, start at left ramp. First Trex event is a 2ball MB.
Control Room modes: Started at C shot when lit, different criteria lights it, but if you see it lit, go for it.
And then there are two Main MBs:
Chaos: Spell CHAOS from left to right, start at Amber Target when lit
Raptor: Shoot Raptor Pit a bunch of times, when the Flasher are near seizure-inducing, next shot starts it.
I know its alot, but thats kind of why this one of the best machines ever. Focus on one thing at a time and get a feel for it and when you understand the basics, you can go about stacking a few things together.
For example, you can get a paddock going with a control room or trex mode then start Chaos MB and go to town.

Thank you for distilling the basics! That feels like a digestible, challenging list of goals.

#13981 1 year ago
Quoted from shaub:

3 sets of modes: Paddocks (catching Dinos), Trex Events, and Control Room modes. Each one has a mini-wizard mode after playing them all so that is a nice singular goal to focus on.
Paddocks: spell MAP by shooting white shots, start at left ramp.
Trex events: hit truck captive ball enough to spell TREX, start at left ramp. First Trex event is a 2ball MB.
Control Room modes: Started at C shot when lit, different criteria lights it, but if you see it lit, go for it.
And then there are two Main MBs:
Chaos: Spell CHAOS from left to right, start at Amber Target when lit
Raptor: Shoot Raptor Pit a bunch of times, when the Flasher are near seizure-inducing, next shot starts it.
I know its alot, but thats kind of why this one of the best machines ever. Focus on one thing at a time and get a feel for it and when you understand the basics, you can go about stacking a few things together.
For example, you can get a paddock going with a control room or trex mode then start Chaos MB and go to town.

Thanks, for the Control Room mode qualifications I found this over on TILT since I couldn't figure out on my own what triggered it:

Catching your first dinosaur
Spelling CHAOS twice
Getting a Jackpot in Raptor Tri-Ball
15 tower shots

-24
#13982 1 year ago

My NIB JP Premium came in but plans changed. 10k if anyone is looking for one. Milwaukee, WI. Pick up only.

#13983 1 year ago
Quoted from athomepinsider:

My NIB JP Premium came in but plans changed. 10k if anyone is looking for one. Milwaukee, WI. Pick up only.

Let’s see how many downvotes his post can get.

#13984 1 year ago

Hello guys, I took delivery of my NIB JP Premium on Friday. We have it set up and while really had no idea what we were doing we played it quite a lot last weekend. Unfortunately on Sunday the game started to act up. The T-Rex eats the ball as it had before but no longer releases the ball. Basically once you lose your multi-ball the game just sits idle for about 30 seconds when it must realize there is no ball inputs and then basically goes through all of the mechanism at once which results in T-Rex turning to the right and dropping the ball. (Same place every time) Then game resumes play. Any ideas?

Second issue is less of a deal but the small one way gate wire that you hit when you hit a cruise missile shot through the pop bumpers gets stuck in the up position wedged against the pop bumper cap. I used a razor blade and cut away some of the pop bumper cap and clearanced the wire so that works now. Not a big deal I guess.

Third is more wondering if the pop bumpers work right. I have a 1980 Black Knight which I've owned for less than 2 months and that's my only point of reference. The single pop bumper on BK seems to be a lot more responsive than the three on JP. Often the ball will roll down from the top through the 3 pops and never activate them. Is that normal?

So is there any warranty on these machines? I feel dumb asking that after spending $9700, but figured it's a new machine and would be trouble free. I did call my dealer and they gave me the service tech voicemail but never called back. Sucks that my first post in the owners thread is the game is broken on day 3.

#13985 1 year ago
Quoted from TheNecromancer:

Hello guys, I took delivery of my NIB JP Premium on Friday. We have it set up and while really had no idea what we were doing we played it quite a lot last weekend. Unfortunately on Sunday the game started to act up. The T-Rex eats the ball as it had before but no longer releases the ball. Basically once you lose your multi-ball the game just sits idle for about 30 seconds when it must realize there is no ball inputs and then basically goes through all of the mechanism at once which results in T-Rex turning to the right and dropping the ball. (Same place every time) Then game resumes play. Any ideas?
Second issue is less of a deal but the small one way gate wire that you hit when you hit a cruise missile shot through the pop bumpers gets stuck in the up position wedged against the pop bumper cap. I used a razor blade and cut away some of the pop bumper cap and clearanced the wire so that works now. Not a big deal I guess.
Third is more wondering if the pop bumpers work right. I have a 1980 Black Knight which I've owned for less than 2 months and that's my only point of reference. The single pop bumper on BK seems to be a lot more responsive than the three on JP. Often the ball will roll down from the top through the 3 pops and never activate them. Is that normal?
So is there any warranty on these machines? I feel dumb asking that after spending $9700, but figured it's a new machine and would be trouble free. I did call my dealer and they gave me the service tech voicemail but never called back. Sucks that my first post in the owners thread is the game is broken on day 3.

This is where having a good dealer comes into play. Hopefully they get more involved than passing along a phone number you can find by googling

#13986 1 year ago
Quoted from TheNecromancer:

Hello guys, I took delivery of my NIB JP Premium on Friday. We have it set up and while really had no idea what we were doing we played it quite a lot last weekend. Unfortunately on Sunday the game started to act up. The T-Rex eats the ball as it had before but no longer releases the ball. Basically once you lose your multi-ball the game just sits idle for about 30 seconds when it must realize there is no ball inputs and then basically goes through all of the mechanism at once which results in T-Rex turning to the right and dropping the ball. (Same place every time) Then game resumes play. Any ideas?
Second issue is less of a deal but the small one way gate wire that you hit when you hit a cruise missile shot through the pop bumpers gets stuck in the up position wedged against the pop bumper cap. I used a razor blade and cut away some of the pop bumper cap and clearanced the wire so that works now. Not a big deal I guess.
Third is more wondering if the pop bumpers work right. I have a 1980 Black Knight which I've owned for less than 2 months and that's my only point of reference. The single pop bumper on BK seems to be a lot more responsive than the three on JP. Often the ball will roll down from the top through the 3 pops and never activate them. Is that normal?
So is there any warranty on these machines? I feel dumb asking that after spending $9700, but figured it's a new machine and would be trouble free. I did call my dealer and they gave me the service tech voicemail but never called back. Sucks that my first post in the owners thread is the game is broken on day 3.

First, congratulations on getting Jurassic Park! It's a great game. Unfortunately, I'd suggest buying from a different distributor next time. Any time I've had an issue on a machine my distributor puts me into direct contact with Stern and follows up to make sure my issue has been resolved. It stinks that your distributor is just telling you to call the phone line yourself, especially since my understanding is Stern is much more responsive to e-mails than phone for support since Covid. The distributor should be doing a better job to make sure you're on track to getting issues resolved.

Yes there is a warranty on the machines. It's listed on Page 65 in the manual:
https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/JurassicPark_LE_Pre_web.pdf

I'm not sure on the T-Rex but there are a lot of people active in the forum who seem to have good experience & advice on it so I'd think someone will be able to chime in with suggestions on it.

The pops should be very responsive. Are you able to get any of them to fire at all by hand, or are they all just not firing at all? If all three aren't firing at all then I'd guess it's likely a connection issue.

#13987 1 year ago
Quoted from TheNecromancer:

Hello guys, I took delivery of my NIB JP Premium on Friday. We have it set up and while really had no idea what we were doing we played it quite a lot last weekend. Unfortunately on Sunday the game started to act up. The T-Rex eats the ball as it had before but no longer releases the ball. Basically once you lose your multi-ball the game just sits idle for about 30 seconds when it must realize there is no ball inputs and then basically goes through all of the mechanism at once which results in T-Rex turning to the right and dropping the ball. (Same place every time) Then game resumes play. Any ideas?
Second issue is less of a deal but the small one way gate wire that you hit when you hit a cruise missile shot through the pop bumpers gets stuck in the up position wedged against the pop bumper cap. I used a razor blade and cut away some of the pop bumper cap and clearanced the wire so that works now. Not a big deal I guess.
Third is more wondering if the pop bumpers work right. I have a 1980 Black Knight which I've owned for less than 2 months and that's my only point of reference. The single pop bumper on BK seems to be a lot more responsive than the three on JP. Often the ball will roll down from the top through the 3 pops and never activate them. Is that normal?
So is there any warranty on these machines? I feel dumb asking that after spending $9700, but figured it's a new machine and would be trouble free. I did call my dealer and they gave me the service tech voicemail but never called back. Sucks that my first post in the owners thread is the game is broken on day 3.

Definitely need to log a support call https://sternpinball.com/support/contact-us/ Unsure why the game would lose track of the ball when in T-Rex's mouth, but then later to be able to correctly release the ball. I'd suggest working with Stern to address the T-Rex issue.

One-way gate - sounds like you've got it covered and haven't heard of this previously, maybe the gate wire wasn't bent quite right or not sitting in the right position.

As of the pop bumpers, the ball presses on the skirt around the bottom of the bumper that triggers the switch under the PF, that causes the coil to fire. If the pop bumpers aren't firing that much you need to adjust each of the pop bumper switches closing the gap slightly (such that less pressure on the skirt activates the switch). You'll need to raise the PF in order to get to the switches. Firstly confirm that each of the pop bumpers work, take the glass off and while it a game grab the ball and then carefully press the skirt of each pop bumper to fire the bumper (this will verify that the switch and coil are working, and a switch adjustment is all that is required to make them more responsive).

#13988 1 year ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

First, congratulations on getting Jurassic Park! It's a great game. Unfortunately, I'd suggest buying from a different distributor next time. Any time I've had an issue on a machine my distributor puts me into direct contact with Stern and follows up to make sure my issue has been resolved. It stinks that your distributor is just telling you to call the phone line yourself, especially since my understanding is Stern is much more responsive to e-mails than phone for support since Covid. The distributor should be doing a better job to make sure you're on track to getting issues resolved.
Yes there is a warranty on the machines. It's listed on Page 65 in the manual:
https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/JurassicPark_LE_Pre_web.pdf
I'm not sure on the T-Rex but there are a lot of people active in the forum who seem to have good experience & advice on it so I'd think someone will be able to chime in with suggestions on it.
The pops should be very responsive. Are you able to get any of them to fire at all by hand, or are they all just not firing at all? If all three aren't firing at all then I'd guess it's likely a connection issue.

Oof-da....

Stern Pinball Inc (‘SELLER’) warrants only to the initial purchaser of its
products that the items listed below are free from defects in material
and workmanship under normal use and service for the warranty period
specified:
• Printed circuit boards (game logic): 2 months
• Dot Matrix / LCD Display: 9 months
No other parts of seller’s product are warranted.

Looks like I'm on my own. Hopefully the dealer helps out but they are so far away I'm doubting they will come this far. About 4 hrs. Have to give them a chance though, I may hear something tomorrow. Thanks for the help!

#13989 1 year ago
Quoted from athomepinsider:

My NIB JP Premium came in but plans changed. 10k if anyone is looking for one. Milwaukee, WI. Pick up only.

It's nice to see that all the flippers are getting their games !

Screenshot_20220531-213710-409 (resized).pngScreenshot_20220531-213710-409 (resized).png
#13990 1 year ago
Quoted from KSP1138:

Catching your first dinosaur
Spelling CHAOS twice
Getting a Jackpot in Raptor Tri-Ball
15 tower shots

Yeah, I was gonna go into that but then I figured my post was already starting to get out of hand.

#13991 1 year ago
Quoted from TheNecromancer:

Oof-da....
Stern Pinball Inc (‘SELLER’) warrants only to the initial purchaser of its
products that the items listed below are free from defects in material
and workmanship under normal use and service for the warranty period
specified:
• Printed circuit boards (game logic): 2 months
• Dot Matrix / LCD Display: 9 months
No other parts of seller’s product are warranted.
Looks like I'm on my own. Hopefully the dealer helps out but they are so far away I'm doubting they will come this far. About 4 hrs. Have to give them a chance though, I may hear something tomorrow. Thanks for the help!

I think they often go beyond that warranty language to replace parts that aren't working.

#13992 1 year ago

After an 11 month wait, next week I'm getting (supposedly) my premium and would like some advice on set up. On my Godzilla LE, I switched out to titan rubber, replaced coils and sleeves, etc....do I need to do that on JP also? Anything else I should do at set-up...suggested table pitch, etc? My main concern is avoiding the horrible flipper fade I'm still getting on GZ...appreciate any/all advice. Thanks.

#13993 1 year ago
Quoted from troon47:

After an 11 month wait, next week I'm getting (supposedly) my premium and would like some advice on set up. On my Godzilla LE, I switched out to titan rubber, replaced coils and sleeves, etc....do I need to do that on JP also? Anything else I should do at set-up...suggested table pitch, etc? My main concern is avoiding the horrible flipper fade I'm still getting on GZ...appreciate any/all advice. Thanks.

Set up at 6.5 to 7.0 degrees. Stern black rubbers and post sleeves gotta go immediately. Ain't gotta be Titan (which is my personal choice), but Stern black rubbers leave crap everywhere. No need to replace coils and sleeves, but maybe have some coil stops on hand.

#13994 1 year ago
Quoted from TheNecromancer:

Hello guys, I took delivery of my NIB JP Premium on Friday. We have it set up and while really had no idea what we were doing we played it quite a lot last weekend. Unfortunately on Sunday the game started to act up. The T-Rex eats the ball as it had before but no longer releases the ball. Basically once you lose your multi-ball the game just sits idle for about 30 seconds when it must realize there is no ball inputs and then basically goes through all of the mechanism at once which results in T-Rex turning to the right and dropping the ball. (Same place every time) Then game resumes play. Any ideas?
Second issue is less of a deal but the small one way gate wire that you hit when you hit a cruise missile shot through the pop bumpers gets stuck in the up position wedged against the pop bumper cap. I used a razor blade and cut away some of the pop bumper cap and clearanced the wire so that works now. Not a big deal I guess.
Third is more wondering if the pop bumpers work right. I have a 1980 Black Knight which I've owned for less than 2 months and that's my only point of reference. The single pop bumper on BK seems to be a lot more responsive than the three on JP. Often the ball will roll down from the top through the 3 pops and never activate them. Is that normal?
So is there any warranty on these machines? I feel dumb asking that after spending $9700, but figured it's a new machine and would be trouble free. I did call my dealer and they gave me the service tech voicemail but never called back. Sucks that my first post in the owners thread is the game is broken on day 3.

Quoted from Manny65:

Definitely need to log a support call https://sternpinball.com/support/contact-us/ Unsure why the game would lose track of the ball when in T-Rex's mouth, but then later to be able to correctly release the ball. I'd suggest working with Stern to address the T-Rex issue.
One-way gate - sounds like you've got it covered and haven't heard of this previously, maybe the gate wire wasn't bent quite right or not sitting in the right position.
As of the pop bumpers, the ball presses on the skirt around the bottom of the bumper that triggers the switch under the PF, that causes the coil to fire. If the pop bumpers aren't firing that much you need to adjust each of the pop bumper switches closing the gap slightly (such that less pressure on the skirt activates the switch). You'll need to raise the PF in order to get to the switches. Firstly confirm that each of the pop bumpers work, take the glass off and while it a game grab the ball and then carefully press the skirt of each pop bumper to fire the bumper (this will verify that the switch and coil are working, and a switch adjustment is all that is required to make them more responsive).

As Manny stated, the pop bumper switches are adjustable. It sounds from your post like they are working, but not very sensitive. Totally fixable on your end with a little time and tweaking. NIB games always need adjustments. They're assembled by line workers who aren't necessarily pinball fanatics. They grab parts from a bin and assemble them. Then there's the shipping. What you're experiencing is normal. Don't worry, the community will steer you in the right direction

#13995 1 year ago
Quoted from shaub:

Yeah, I was gonna go into that but then I figured my post was already starting to get out of hand.

What you posted is a very good concise version of the rules. And after playing a handful of games you sort of run into lighting the control room naturally. I would have guessed it was only lit after capturing dinos. If I tried to explain the rules to somebody right now it would be like this.

tumblr_o16n2kBlpX1ta3qyvo1_1280 (resized).jpgtumblr_o16n2kBlpX1ta3qyvo1_1280 (resized).jpg
#13996 1 year ago
Quoted from TheNecromancer:

Oof-da....
Stern Pinball Inc (‘SELLER’) warrants only to the initial purchaser of its
products that the items listed below are free from defects in material
and workmanship under normal use and service for the warranty period
specified:
• Printed circuit boards (game logic): 2 months
• Dot Matrix / LCD Display: 9 months
No other parts of seller’s product are warranted.
Looks like I'm on my own. Hopefully the dealer helps out but they are so far away I'm doubting they will come this far. About 4 hrs. Have to give them a chance though, I may hear something tomorrow. Thanks for the help!

Thankfully they've always gone way above and beyond for me. When in doubt, just contact them. Every time I needed something that I thought I had -any- chance of getting help with, they took care of me. It's unfortunate their official warranty isn't better, but their real-life warranty is great.

#13997 1 year ago

Well, dealer offered phone support but nobody is coming out to fix it. Stern is email only, no phone support. I'll try emailing them. Dealer said that will likely send parts and I can try to install them. So basically for $10 grand I got a project pinball machine. Hell I don't even own a soldering iron.

#13998 1 year ago
Quoted from TheNecromancer:

Well, dealer offered phone support but nobody is coming out to fix it. Stern is email only, no phone support. I'll try emailing them. Dealer said that will likely send parts and I can try to install them. So basically for $10 grand I got a project pinball machine. Hell I don't even own a soldering iron.

I've been in your shoes. First game I purchased was a total basket case. I knew nothing.

But everyone on pinside helped and I got the game working 100%. I know it is terrible that this is how the warranty works. Sure...new distributor for next time, but that doesn't help you now.

Just post questions...tell us what's not working and we'll help you get through it.

#13999 1 year ago
Quoted from TheNecromancer:

Well, dealer offered phone support but nobody is coming out to fix it. Stern is email only, no phone support. I'll try emailing them. Dealer said that will likely send parts and I can try to install them. So basically for $10 grand I got a project pinball machine. Hell I don't even own a soldering iron.

Hate to say it, but EVERY pinball machine is a project. That is just how they are. You might get lucky from time to time, but more than likely you will eventually have to do something. It's a shame that it came right out of the box that way, but that's really not a rarity for any manufacturer. It is just the nature of these insanely complicated machines.

Between your distributor and the people here, you will get through it!

#14000 1 year ago
Quoted from Jediturtle:

Hate to say it, but EVERY pinball machine is a project. That is just how they are. You might get lucky from time to time, but more than likely you will eventually have to do something. It's a shame that it came right out of the box that way, but that's really not a rarity for any manufacturer. It is just the nature of these insanely complicated machines.
Between your distributor and the people here, you will get through it!

I often wonder how extensive the factory "QA/QC" process is? I can only imagine that they button it all up, plug it in, and play 2 or 3 balls, recording any obvious problems they observe to be fixed by the re-work team. I would like to be wrong, but the regularly posted NIB stories seem to confirm the QA/QC process is fairly minor...

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