See if theres a molex for them connectors somewhere close to the switches. Should be an easy swap. Happened with my IMDN. The ramp and orbit optos were swapped. The molex for both were next to each other underneath, so can see the mistake by whoever assembled it. quick swap and thats all it took.

Not sure which two switches are mis-wired, but they all share the same colour wire on one side (black-grey), so if you de-solder the mixed up switches and put the wires on the right ones, then things will work out. My guess is "Raptor Pit Top" (lgn) and "Control Room" (lgn-gry) are switched. Not sure what colour "lgn" is and at this point, I'm afraid to ask.

jp_wires_color (resized).png

That is a picture of the switch under the control room (left) and the raptor pit (right). Green, black or both cables?
Thanks a lot.

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Need a better pic focusing on the green wires going to those 2 switches - the control room should be Light Green with Grey stripe (LGN-GRY), while the top raptor pit should be solid Light Green (LGN).

Also just to doublecheck, take a pic of the wire colours going into Node 9's connector CN11 (Node 9 is on the bottom left of the PF when you have the PF raised vertically) - pin 2 should be the Light Green with Grey stripe (LGN-GRY) wire, while pin 3 should be the Light Green (LGN).

Thanks for your help. I will check it in the evening ( I live in Switzerland) and write back asap. I have this picture, but I don't think it's helping. Front switch should be control room.
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Yes a bit hard to tell from that pic as well, but check out which one has the grey stripe - it should be the control switch and it should be going into pin 2 on CN11 on the Node 9 board. Hopefully you'll be able to spot where the issue is from this

One word of caution: it is very likely that swapping the two wires at the two switches (#37 & #38) pictured will yield the correct playing results, BUT by simply doing so, you may actually end up using the wrong wire colors for each switch, which would make subsequent servicing needs more difficult. The best way to fix this issue is to make sure that the light-green with grey tracer is in fact connect to CN11 pin 2, and that it runs all the way to the switch for the Control Room target (#37). Do the same for CN11-Pin 3, making sure that the light green (no tracer) runs from that Pin 3 to the Pit Top switch (#38). In this way, the manual will match your playfield, making the machine easier to troubleshoot for subsequent owners.

this ^
Also my OCD would not let me do it any other way.
I think you are on track with the previous advice given and I would like to add the following that might give you a better understanding of how to trouble shoot switches, which will come in handy while you are looking at this.

I wish Stern included this manual with the machine but they don't. It is weird that they don't especially in today's market when it is mostly home buyers that buy these things.
They did a really good job at explaining the Spike platform (I am a bit of a nerd and enjoy reading this stuff).

https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/SPIKE-System-Manual.pdf
Page 37 and around there is a good start.

Also I would recommend you buy yourself cable, soldering gun, solder and a digital multi meter. You might not use it now but you will at some point.

This job might seem daunting at first (it was for me when I started) but once you take the first step that is it.

I was looking at Spike II switches for the first time yesterday actually (had not had an issue before) fixing my own switch issue, and although I can't confirm, because I did not have to replace cables, I believe the cable from the connector to the switch is directly connected meaning it is not daisy chained like the ground cable.
If that is the case, you can easily run a new cable if you had to but this might be too complicated just yet.

If the cables are inverted at the connector, a 0.100 molex tool, like this one but not this one (sorry could not find the right link but wanted to show you anyways, this one is for .156 connectors and you should buy it for the other connectors in that size should you ever need it).
With this tool you can easily take the terminals out and place them in the right place if needed.
https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/molex/0011030016/228686

Good luck

Joe dropped by to show these to me, and try the sizing out.
I was floored at the quality of the print, the detail in paint, and the angle of the heads rising up!

They look amazing!

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Thanks for everybodys help so far.

So I had a closer look and took the following pictures. To me, both cables are lgn. There are no grey stripes. They both go into Nodeboard 9, CN11 next to each other.

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The top picture shows a lgn-gry wire and the second one has a solid green wire. That first picture looks like the control room target, is that correct?

It's hard to see for sure but it looks like the lgn-gry and lgn wires are reversed in that connector.

So basically, you could reverse the wires on the switches so that lgn is on the control room target and lgn-gry is on that Raptor pit target. OR you could reverse the wires in the connector (as others have mentioned, this would be the "proper" fix). However, just switching the wires will make it work as intended and will be an easy job to do.

Well... it is kind of a mess. The lgn-grey cable goes to the raptor pid -up left switch and gets regognised so in the switch test. Raptor Pit - Top and Control Room are both lgn cables.

Well now I'm not understanding. In your post (#13710) you posted 5 pictures. Can you confirm what they are? To me Pic 1 looks like the "Target Control Room" and Pic 2 looks like the "Target Raptor Pit-Top."

edit: Basically, Im wondering if the physical switches are wired correctly, but that the connector itself is wired incorrectly. It would help if you could take a clear picture of that connector clearly showing which wires go to which spots on the connector.

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Ok... I think I found one of the problems... I am definitly colorblind. I wasn't able to see the grey stripe. Sorry everybody.
It looks like the lgn gry is in input pin 3 and the lgn is in input pin 2. On the Switches the colours are correct. lgn gry on Control Room and lgn on Raptor Pit - top.
Can I just pull them out and stick them in or do I need to watch for something?

You can't just pull the wires out.

You see those little rectangle holes on the connector where you can see some silver?

There is a little tab that is sticking out that is making it so you can't pull the wire out and thus, holds it in place. The silver you see is part of the pin crimped onto the wire.

You can use a small flat screw driver to press the tab down and pull the wire/pin out of the connector.

Once you get it out you may have to pull it out a little bit with your fingernail or a screw driver, so that when you push it back into the right spot, it "clicks" and stays in there and won't just slide right back out.

Light GREEEN with a narrow GREY stripe is tough for ANYONE to see. Your color blindness might make it worse...

Or buy the tool I posted earlier and do it properly without damaging the molex connector and terminal.
Come on people. Spent 10g on a pinball machine and we can’t spend $10 on a tool…
Geee

We haven’t a dime left to buy the tool

Carefully pushing the retaining tab down with a tiny screwdriver vs. spending any amount of money for a tool that will slightly push the retaining tab down seems like a clear choice in my opinion.

ymmv, never had good results or results to my standards at least unless I used that little tool.

The link you posted shows that tool at $32....before shipping...?

I've been popping those pins out a lot on all of my arcade games for years with a small screw driver and never once had an issue. There is no reason to have a special tool for those when you can do it perfectly fine with a screw driver.

Now, those round molex plugs, THOSE you want the special tool for. The pins for those need to be pushed down between the pin and the plastic housing. There is no exposed tab to push down outside the connector like there are these longer ones that have square holes/pins.

You're going to ruin your connector and/or the pins trying to get those out without the proper tool. Ask me how I know lol.

Same principle, the tool isnt to push the pin down like you are suggesting it is for the pin to slide over and under the connector.
You do not need to “use your nails” to bring the tab up if done correctly.
It is just a little detail that just add a little touch, it does a pro job and as it was intended by the engineers that designed the molex system. Which was designed to be used in machinery and equipment way more relevant than a pinball, therefore, absolute reliability and consistency is required.
Maybe not so important for our use but what gives… I prefer doing it this way.

It was just an example. Use other vendors.
That one is also the wrong size.
Link was used for demonstration.

I agree, when it comes to connectors get in the habit of using the right tool for the job. The pin extractors are admittedly much more important than these terminal extractors, but still… it’s a cheap tool that will last forever. Sager has them for $17.

https://www.sager.com/0011030016-17247.html

I mean that is pretty much a $17 flat head screw driver so yeah, whatever floats your boat lol.

Holy shit, let me post a picture of my Pro so we can get off the "bitch about tools" theme we're on lately.

Back on track!!!!

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I added some extra green leds to the trees on my Tilt topper.

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Cool translite!

Thanks. Got it from Pinstein.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/270#post-6842995

Yeah, that looks like a legit translite. Some custom ones look very "homebrewy."

Ya, I like it. Kind of gives me Data East Jurassic Park Vibes

Anyone need a set of art blades? I ordered two different sets so I have an extra pingraffix holografic set. Brand new. $50 shipped f & f. Or meet up in Chicago. Thanks!!

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Hi everyone.

Can any pros out there help me prevent this palpable insert cracking from getting worse. I hope to keep this game for the remainder of my years on this planet.

I hope to fix without a complete tear down at this point. Might a brush of auto detail paint and mylar over the “O” lane be sufficient to fix and also protect it or is that a mistake?

I may tear down the board to restore it some day in the distant future but just want to play the crap out of it for now without it being unplayable in a few short years.

I’m brand new to owning a pinball machine so I’m learning. I do realize we own these to play and I have no reservations about that. Just trying to keep it as nice as possible while also completely playable.

Thanks for your thoughts.

JP rocks. That said, so does pinball in general…haha.

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Have you ever needed a terminal extractor tool for this machine.

My shooter lane has a little bit of clear damage, chipping. How do you reduce the power to the kick out coil, and how should I go about repairing and protecting my shooter lane from further damage?

Thanks

Go into feature adjustment settings (Adj -> Game) and change "Trough Eject Power" (it's around #308-310 from memory) to the minimum setting (mine ejects fine at that). Once you turned it down then you probably only need to put a bit of mylar over the damaged clear (given there's minimal damage). If there's cracks in the clear you can address that with a glue or nail polish - I have Ron Kruzman's install kit that includes a glue and syringe for exactly this.

Thanks to everybody for the help.
The fix was in the end easy but I learned a lot on the way . Just had to change the cables on the molex connector. Screwdriver did the job very well.

I noticed that my trex somtimes loses the ball, altough I have set the adjustment to:

"T-REX THROW BALL ENABLED" - NO

Did someone had to deal with similar issues?

Can you elaborate on how she "loses the ball"? Do you mean she grabs the ball but when swinging her head around the ball comes out?

Yes. While moving the head right to left, she opens her mouth and looses the ball.

The wire solder connections to the coil (mouth) and the magnet in the T-Rex head have been known to break and have intermittent connectivity, or the wire can get crushed. Maybe the magnet is losing power as the head moves because of a damaged wire or solder connection, and so the weight of the ball pushes the mouth open and it falls out. To properly inspect you'll need to remove T-Rex from the machine and disassemble - there's quite a few posts on how to do this (either on this thread or the Prem/LE thread).

I tried searching for the answer but does insider connected nuke the movie code? Can the two co-exist?

I would contact the author of the updated code to get his current recommendation. timlah79

are the settings STOCK or has someone changed them?
Go into the magnet power setting and see if it is set for FACTORY settings.

All FACTORY settings on the T-Rex, just the "T-REX THROW BALL ENABLED" - has been changed to NO.

Two out of three times she does it right. Maybe I will contact my distributer for this one. Watch and learn.

Looks not good, what’s the build date of the machine ?

I panicked a couple months ago thinking I had ghosted inserts I seen someone else thought they had raised inserts. Actually it's none of the above it's just a decal that sits on top of the inserts I know it looks bad but they are just more exposed now because of the lower clear they are putting on to avoid pooling and chipping. Take a flashlight to it or look at them on location and you'll see the edge of the decal better than you can on a HUO

Yep I reckon there’s a good chance it’s a poor solder joint or damaged wire in T-Rex as it would explain the intermittent issue you’re having. And others have experienced and posted about similar issues.

For me this was caused by the T-Rex mouth sticking open.