Jurassic Park (30th Anniversary LE)
Stern, 2023
Jurassic Park (Limited Edition)
Stern, 2019
Jurassic Park (Premium)
Stern, 2019
Jurassic Park (Pro)
Stern, 2019I was wondering what all that gold dust was near where a shaker motor would be installed.....now, my lower flipper sticks to the point a ball has to hit it for it to come down.
Less than 3000 plays and about 250K right flipper activations .
Have the coil sleeves. Am awaiting the coil stops now.....
Quoted from shaub:I consider it to be one of the best parts about owning and playing your own machines. There's definitely a line between adjusting the game to play properly but "as intended and designed." And then there is adjusting the game to play how you want it to play, including things like adding in larger posts to shrink outlanes or evening adding a center post like in Ghostbusters. The second one is definitely closer to "cheating" than the first one in my opinion. But in reality, pinball is supposed to be fun, and whatever it takes to make the game more fun should be on the table.
Ultimately, most of the things you mentioned are really just dialing the game in as it was designed and intended to play.
Question,
Is the rubber for the helipad ramp supposed to kick the ball off to the left flipper on a failed shot?
That is what mine is doing now.
Seems ok to me but wanted to check before I make adjustments.
Quoted from NPO:I was wondering what all that gold dust was near where a shaker motor would be installed.....now, my lower flipper sticks to the point a ball has to hit it for it to come down.
Less than 3000 plays and about 250K right flipper activations .
Have the coil sleeves. Am awaiting the coil stops now.....
1) Probably the paint from the spring on the shooter rod wearing off.
2) Probably your coil stops are broken. Stern coil stops are notorious for breaking. I bet there is a hole in the bracket where the coil stop is supposed to reside, and the piece is not free-floating and going into your coil sleeve.
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:Question,
Is the rubber for the helipad ramp supposed to kick the ball off to the left flipper on a failed shot?
That is what mine is doing now.
Seems ok to me but wanted to check before I make adjustments.
Mine use to do that and on light shots it would bump it out enough for a drainoooooohhh.
Not anymore though and I love it.
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:Question,
Is the rubber for the helipad ramp supposed to kick the ball off to the left flipper on a failed shot?
That is what mine is doing now.
Seems ok to me but wanted to check before I make adjustments.
I believe so. Mine has always done that as well. I recall reading in this thread a ways back that it does that intentionally so that you don't get it drained SDTM.
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:Question,
Is the rubber for the helipad ramp supposed to kick the ball off to the left flipper on a failed shot?
That is what mine is doing now.
Seems ok to me but wanted to check before I make adjustments.
That's exactly what it's supposed to do. Yes a fluke can occasionally happen and it drains STDM. It's pinball. There is some randomness involved. It's your game however and if you want to somehow adjust it so it drops it to the right flipper then do what feels right, regardless of the design intention. It's your game. Enjoy it how you want it.
Folks that demand perfect replication of behavior every time should stick to virtual pinball 
And before you ask, yes it's normal that the one-way gate sometimes let's a ball out of the pop area. Usually STDM. It happens occasionally and the designer acknowledged it. I'll let you search the hundreds of pages on both threads to find exactly when/where he said that. It's there somewhere.
Quoted from blujae014:1) Probably the paint from the spring on the shooter rod wearing off.
2) Probably your coil stops are broken. Stern coil stops are notorious for breaking. I bet there is a hole in the bracket where the coil stop is supposed to reside, and the piece is not free-floating and going into your coil sleeve.
Definitely is the coil stops. The rivet piece is loose on both the left and right ones. Marco had them on the way. Guessing I'll get them by the weekend.
Quoted from MrMikeman:That's exactly what it's supposed to do. Yes a fluke can occasionally happen and it drains STDM. It's pinball. There is some randomness involved. It's your game however and if you want to somehow adjust it so it drops it to the right flipper then do what feels right, regardless of the design intention. It's your game. Enjoy it how you want it.
Folks that demand perfect replication of behavior every time should stick to virtual pinball
And before you ask, yes it's normal that the one-way gate sometimes let's a ball out of the pop area. Usually STDM. It happens occasionally and the designer acknowledged it. I'll let you search the hundreds of pages on both threads to find exactly when/where he said that. It's there somewhere.
I friggin' love this game. the moving TREX and the premium stuff was worth it - first time for me I feel this way about a premium game as I have always been disappointed with most premiums. This one is awesome.
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:Question,
Is the rubber for the helipad ramp supposed to kick the ball off to the left flipper on a failed shot?
That is what mine is doing now.Seems ok to me but wanted to check before I make adjustments.
Mine does that, and I believe that is proper. I also think it's more difficult than a clean return to the right flipper and way less annoying than hitting the top of the slingshot.
Quoted from BubbaPin:I'm curious, the jp I picked up recently. Looks like stern used like a warm white or sunlight for GI, but I've seen videos of others where it looks like gi I cool white. Anyone got any info?
The lighting is most definitely warm white on the game from the factory.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:The lighting is most definitely warm white on the game from the factory.
all other Sterns are soft white so most likely people are changing it out to white.
I think the warm color goes well wth the jungle theme and I find cool white to not really fit well, I like it how it is from the factory.
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:all other Sterns are soft white so most likely people are changing it out to white.
I think the warm color goes well wth the jungle theme and I find cool white to not really fit well, I like it how it is from the factory.
Agreed. Except, I put cool whites in the return lanes and slings because I have the orange plastic protectors and the light came out way too orange with the stock bulbs.
Here's our new Dino Mod coming in the next couple of weeks.
1651230845878_Jurassic-Park-3D-Slingshot-Mods-04 (resized).jpg1651230853465_Jurassic-Park-3D-Slingshot-Mods-02 (resized).jpg1651230860533_Jurassic-Park-3D-Slingshot-Mods-03 (resized).jpg1651230867462_Jurassic-Park-3D-Slingshot-Mods-01 (resized).jpgI've seen where some people had removed the original t Rex head and added a full body t Rex in place (pick below). Saw this box set at target and thinking on getting it, using the t Rex for that and taking the jeep, adding some LEDs and using it as a topper.
Screenshot_20220429-161438 (resized).jpgScreenshot_20220429-161537 (resized).jpgLook, it is your game, but I have never understood this allure to fasten all these plastic dinosaurs all over the PF. Ok, I can understand the Raptor at the pit as that is lacking on the Pro model but...man, some of these games I dont even recognize anymore...
Quoted from NPO:Look, it is your game, but I have never understood this allure to fasten all these plastic dinosaurs all over the PF. Ok, I can understand the Raptor at the pit as that is lacking on the Pro model but...man, some of these games I dont even recognize anymore...
Don’t go over to the Godzilla thread then lol. Full grown men are putting more toys into these things than my 3 year old has in her toy box.
Quoted from CashMoney:Don’t go over to the Godzilla thread then lol. Full grown men are putting more toys into these things than my 3 year old has in her toy box.
LOL!!!
Quoted from CashMoney:Don’t go over to the Godzilla thread then lol. Full grown men are putting more toys into these things than my 3 year old has in her toy box.
I keep my mouth shut and be nice, but I follow the threads just for the laughs. Even most of the paid mods are pretty bad.
Quoted from rrocker:Mod I like the most on my Premium is the Matchbox Helicopter. Simple mod but without it's hard for people to realize it's a Helipad there.
I like that! Where do you get it?
Quoted from John_C:I like that! Where do you get it?
I found mine on eBay but I've also seen them here in the Market link. There is a pinside thread that showed how to modify it.
Here is the link
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/168#post-5987179
My upper flipper post broke tonight. Snapped clean in half in the middle of a game. I was wondering how hard it would be to get that flipper assy off. Thanks for the post on removing it, Eagle!. I will sleep easier while I wait for replacement part to arrive.
My Pro model is about 18 months old and these posts all come loose. I've been reluctant to try locktite so I just tighten them every hundred games or so.
Now I'm wondering if my flipper power is too high. I never adjusted it from factory setting, but a broken post suggests to me that maybe a little less power might be a good idea.
Anyway, again, thanks for the info on taking the flipper assembly off.
Cheers!
Quoted from Pstine:My upper flipper post broke tonight. Snapped clean in half in the middle of a game. I was wondering how hard it would be to get that flipper assy off. Thanks for the post on removing it, Eagle!. I will sleep easier while I wait for replacement part to arrive.
My Pro model is about 18 months old and these posts all come loose. I've been reluctant to try locktite so I just tighten them every hundred games or so.
Now I'm wondering if my flipper power is too high. I never adjusted it from factory setting, but a broken post suggests to me that maybe a little less power might be a good idea.
Anyway, again, thanks for the info on taking the flipper assembly off.
Cheers!
I just re tighten the post adter removing the flipper assy.
Blue loctite applied and left to cure for 24 hours. Looks solid.
While I was at it also replaced the post nut with a new for good measure so it had a better bite (the nuts loses some grip after they are removed, it is just the nature of the nylon as it deforms I guess)
Let’s see how long it last.
Removing the assy is very easy. 8 1/4” self tapping screws and the flipper post.
You will need a 5/32 allen to remove the post. Get a long handle one to retighten it. When retighten just go use grip torque to tighten, do not over leverage or you wull deform the arm where the post attaches. If it happens get a new one it will make installation in the future a lot easier, once they deform they need a lot more torque and they twist (very annoying).
For the post in question…Get yourself a long socket so you can hold the post from the top side while you tighten from underneath or the post will otherwise slip.
I have had great results with loctite before and it is also not permanent. Blue loctite will break off using tool, easy.Especially on an assembly like this where you can hold with a socket from above, will make for an eassy removal.
It gets a little tricky when it is on a Phillips screws. In those cases pre heating the area helps loosen it up and it comes off easily too.
So. New owner here. I got some questions. Yes I've been reading through the thread but haven't found anything yet.
Does this game sometimes feel like a clunkfest?
My splitter shot: alot of time when you hit it, it goes through the spinner, then hits the ball guide in the back, stops and goes back towards the left and falls to the pops and back to the upper right flipper. I feel like if you hit the spinner, majority of the time it should ride the ball guide all around the right to the upper flipper instead of falling in the pops. Which is correct.
Left orbit: rejects prolly about 75 percent of the time, hit the shot, ball hits ball guide hard loses momentum, comes out the left orbit instead of making the orbit back to the upper right flipper. Is this normal?
Left tower ramp shot: ball gets shot in here, clunk clunk on ball guide, loses momentum, falls down to lower flippers. Normal?
Left ramp t Rex: when I first got this game this shot seemed pretty easy. The left screw at the enterence of the ramp, seemed higher than the right, like it wasn't tightened, so I tightened it. Now the ramp gets rejects some of the time, but I do assume this is normal.
If anyone has any words of wisdom for dialing this puppy in please let me know
Quoted from BubbaPin:So. New owner here. I got some questions. Yes I've been reading through the thread but haven't found anything yet.
Does this game sometimes feel like a clunkfest?
My splitter shot: alot of time when you hit it, it goes through the spinner, then hits the ball guide in the back, stops and goes back towards the left and falls to the pops and back to the upper right flipper. I feel like if you hit the spinner, majority of the time it should ride the ball guide all around the right to the upper flipper instead of falling in the pops. Which is correct.
Left orbit: rejects prolly about 75 percent of the time, hit the shot, ball hits ball guide hard loses momentum, comes out the left orbit instead of making the orbit back to the upper right flipper. Is this normal?
Left tower ramp shot: ball gets shot in here, clunk clunk on ball guide, loses momentum, falls down to lower flippers. Normal?
Left ramp t Rex: when I first got this game this shot seemed pretty easy. The left screw at the enterence of the ramp, seemed higher than the right, like it wasn't tightened, so I tightened it. Now the ramp gets rejects some of the time, but I do assume this is normal.
If anyone has any words of wisdom for dialing this puppy in please let me know
So…. Who is gonna tell him. Lol
Kidding.
All normal. This games really requires accurate shots.
For the tower make sure your upper flipper power is set to 255 or the wont be enough juice to make it consistenly up the ramp u less the ball come from the orbit with speed.
All the other shots are like this when you get a poor placed shot.
The spinner need to be shots earlier on the left side of the guide or it chokes up on the exit for me at least, I wish it would be easier or smoother but it is not too bad.
Edit: maybe it can be adjusted? I have not toyed with this much as it seems ok to me.
Enjoy the game it is awesome. For me it is the best Stern made yet including Gz.
Quoted from BubbaPin:So. New owner here. I got some questions. Yes I've been reading through the thread but haven't found anything yet.
Does this game sometimes feel like a clunkfest?
My splitter shot: alot of time when you hit it, it goes through the spinner, then hits the ball guide in the back, stops and goes back towards the left and falls to the pops and back to the upper right flipper. I feel like if you hit the spinner, majority of the time it should ride the ball guide all around the right to the upper flipper instead of falling in the pops. Which is correct.
Left orbit: rejects prolly about 75 percent of the time, hit the shot, ball hits ball guide hard loses momentum, comes out the left orbit instead of making the orbit back to the upper right flipper. Is this normal?
Left tower ramp shot: ball gets shot in here, clunk clunk on ball guide, loses momentum, falls down to lower flippers. Normal?
Left ramp t Rex: when I first got this game this shot seemed pretty easy. The left screw at the enterence of the ramp, seemed higher than the right, like it wasn't tightened, so I tightened it. Now the ramp gets rejects some of the time, but I do assume this is normal.
If anyone has any words of wisdom for dialing this puppy in please let me know
It took me longer to dial in the shots on this game than any of my other games. It was just a matter of tweaking pitch and flipper power settings, playing it for a few days or a couple weeks, and then re-adjusting pitch or flipper power to try to dial in anything that I still wasn't happy with.
Your spinner doesn't sound too out of the ordinary. On some shots it will fall into the pops. If it's never going around to the orbit then you might want to check pitch, level, flipper power and that the spinner is spinning freely and not slowing the ball too much on clean shots.
Of all the things you mention the only one I think worth checking more on is on the raptor tower. With a ball in hand roll it up to the ramp against the left ball guide (same path it would take going from the flipper) to check that the left ramp flap screw is tucked in close enough to the ball guide that it doesn't make contact with the ball. If that's okay on it then it's just a matter of having fun playing and dialing it all in.
For the left ramp (T-Rex) it shouldn't reject too often. If you're getting a bunch of rejects on that one that you think should be clean then I'd suggest taking slow motion video to see if you can spot what's causing it and then adjust from there.
Quoted from BubbaPin:So. New owner here. I got some questions. Yes I've been reading through the thread but haven't found anything yet.
Does this game sometimes feel like a clunkfest?
My splitter shot: alot of time when you hit it, it goes through the spinner, then hits the ball guide in the back, stops and goes back towards the left and falls to the pops and back to the upper right flipper. I feel like if you hit the spinner, majority of the time it should ride the ball guide all around the right to the upper flipper instead of falling in the pops. Which is correct.
Left orbit: rejects prolly about 75 percent of the time, hit the shot, ball hits ball guide hard loses momentum, comes out the left orbit instead of making the orbit back to the upper right flipper. Is this normal?
Left tower ramp shot: ball gets shot in here, clunk clunk on ball guide, loses momentum, falls down to lower flippers. Normal?
Left ramp t Rex: when I first got this game this shot seemed pretty easy. The left screw at the enterence of the ramp, seemed higher than the right, like it wasn't tightened, so I tightened it. Now the ramp gets rejects some of the time, but I do assume this is normal.
If anyone has any words of wisdom for dialing this puppy in please let me know
In addition to EaglePin comments, on the spinner I find when shot from the right flipper it’ll make the orbit (and is best for ripping the spinner for max points); while from the left flipper (which has less power) it’ll stop and fall into the pops, which is very useful as it enables the Escape Lit target (hitting that timed target will give you ball save on the left outlane)
Quoted from EaglePin:It took me longer to dial in the shots on this game than any of my other games. It was just a matter of tweaking pitch and flipper power settings, playing it for a few days or a couple weeks, and then re-adjusting pitch or flipper power to try to dial in anything that I still wasn't happy with.
Your spinner doesn't sound too out of the ordinary. On some shots it will fall into the pops. If it's never going around to the orbit then you might want to check pitch, level, flipper power and that the spinner is spinning freely and not slowing the ball too much on clean shots.
Of all the things you mention the only one I think worth checking more on is on the raptor tower. With a ball in hand roll it up to the ramp against the left ball guide (same path it would take going from the flipper) to check that the left ramp flap screw is tucked in close enough to the ball guide that it doesn't make contact with the ball. If that's okay on it then it's just a matter of having fun playing and dialing it all in.
For the left ramp (T-Rex) it shouldn't reject too often. If you're getting a bunch of rejects on that one that you think should be clean then I'd suggest taking slow motion video to see if you can spot what's causing it and then adjust from there.
Quoted from Manny65:In addition to EaglePin comments, on the spinner I find when shot from the right flipper it’ll make the orbit (and is best for ripping the spinner for max points); while from the left flipper (which has less power) it’ll stop and fall into the pops, which is very useful as it enables the Escape Lit target (hitting that timed target will give you ball save on the left outlane)
Sweet, thanks yall
Well I had a little time to play and see if I could improve the game shootability and started with the easiest…
I quixkly realized I was at 7.2/3 at the top, but about 6.8 by the flippers which is where I had originally used for the measurement.
So to find a baseline, what I did instead this time around was centering the bubble, I then look for 6.5d degrees on the playfield with the bubble centered… from the middle and up I qm at 6.5 but middle down it starts to taper off.
Turns out with the bubble centered I am at 6.1/2at the flippers but 6.5 at the newton ball.
So I dialed in for 7 degrees at the newton and the speed is good but most importantly the tower shot is much repeteable now.
So I am sticking with it.
Has anybodu figured why is the raptor gate not coming down fully. I was 2 mm away from flush and it was enough to block balls.
A quick setup menu in/out fixed it without changing anything…
Quoted from BubbaPin:Does this game sometimes feel like a clunkfest?
Yes. As Pin_Fandango noted; accurate shots required. The thing with this game is sometimes you’re on and this thing shoots and combos like your baby’s buttery butt…smooth. But sometimes you’re just a bit off and this thing those into ball search (almost). Sometimes your $400M in on ball one nailing everything you’ve wanted and then you clunk clunk clunk your way into a $425M game. I mean…at least that’s my experience with this one. Enjoy!
Quoted from Riefepeters:Yes. As Pin_Fandango noted; accurate shots required. The thing with this game is sometimes you’re on and this thing shoots and combos like your baby’s buttery butt…smooth. But sometimes you’re just a bit off and this thing those into ball search (almost). Sometimes your $400M in on ball one nailing everything you’ve wanted and then you clunk clunk clunk your way into a $425M game. I mean…at least that’s my experience with this one. Enjoy!
Haha yes feel ya brother. That is it.
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:Has anybodu figured why is the raptor gate not coming down fully. I was 2 mm away from flush and it was enough to block balls.
Been covered a few times in the thread. Did a quick search and found this for you ( =P )
Quoted from Manny65:That's a simple adjustment (similar to adjusting an up-post to be flush) - a bolt at the bottom of the mech sets the stop height. Best to fix this rather than play at it is, as you run the risk of chipping the PF.
Quoted from Sleal16:Been covered a few times in the thread. Did a quick search and found this for you ( =P )
Haha thanks!
Yeah but it was not that. 
I am referring at either code or switch related issue.
I had weird things happen to this game, certain parts randomly stop working, right bow the upper left corner of my pf has some switches not working:
Right ramp, right orbit enter and exit.
Earlier the raptor cage stopped working but restarting fixed it, and yesterday the trex stopped working and restarted fixed it.
Did not pay much attention to it but now the switches will not work…
I am still diagnosing things: cn12 node 9?
I
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:Haha thanks!
Yeah but it was not that.
I am referring at either code or switch related issue.
I had weird things happen to this game, certain parts randomly stop working, right bow the upper left corner of my pf has some switches not working:
Right ramp, right orbit enter and exit.
Earlier the raptor cage stopped working but restarting fixed it, and yesterday the trex stopped working and restarted fixed it.
Did not pay much attention to it but now the switches will not work…
I am still diagnosing things: cn12 node 9?
I
Yikes thats a large array of stuff. Overall node 9 board issue? since its also driving the data from node 8 that passes on those switches
Kinda "incepted" my wife to like/want this game a couple of months back. Put a preorder in which I'm fairly confident we wont get it this year (and who knows about 2023), which is fine...we need the time to make room/etc (plus..our first kid at end of year!). We already have a JP room of art and stuff, so it'll fit in nicely there.
Either way its fun, every day going a couple of pages in both direction (from beginning and from the end) to catch up on this forum. Also funny because my wife is semi indifferent with pinball in general, but she has gravitated to loving all Elwin games without knowing they were from the same designer.
Quoted from Sleal16:Yikes thats a large array of stuff. Overall node 9 board issue? since its also driving the data from node 8 that passes on those switches
looks like it, but it is intermittent so I am guessing it is either a code issue or a loose cable. I reset the ethernet cables and power on/off and started working again.
I will reflash the card in case it was an incremental update issue, the card is market as 1.04 but it was running 1.05 so it was most likely updated incrementally.
wish me luck, I never had a node issue before so I have no clue what are the behaviours these tend to show before they go KAPUT.
If anybody else has any tips on what to check let me know....
Sleal16 a quick search did not bring anuything up, lol.
Update: broken off at the solder joint ground wire by the upper flipper EOS was causing the issue.
Thanks
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:looks like it, but it is intermittent so I am guessing it is either a code issue or a loose cable. I reset the ethernet cables and power on/off and started working again.
I will reflash the card in case it was an incremental update issue, the card is market as 1.04 but it was running 1.05 so it was most likely updated incrementally.
wish me luck, I never had a node issue before so I have no clue what are the behaviours these tend to show before they go KAPUT.
If anybody else has any tips on what to check let me know....
Sleal16 a quick search did not bring anuything up, lol.
Update: broken off at the solder joint ground wire by the upper flipper EOS was causing the issue.
Thanks
Get some of this:
The needle will allow you to get in every single hole of the cales, and you can place it on the male pins as well. Just let it sit - no need to brush or use any abrasives - this stuff gets rid of oxidation on its own.
Has been super helpful for me. Bought mine back in 2014 or so, and I still have the same container as in the picture - it may be $35 but it will last a long, long time.
Have these guys coming loose after being tighten down…
I had put loctite on the nut but the leveler came loose anyways while the nut was attached to it in place lol…
Obvious reasoning is to apply loctite at the bracket rather than the nut?
Only asking because I dont want to make my life miserable after lol, also want to do it right…
Anyway, what is your preferree way of loctite-ing these
image (resized).jpg
I'd take it out, put a hexnut on the threads that are on the inside of the bracket, adjust the height of the rubber stopper until when the post is dropped it is flush with the playfiel, then crank the hexnut down night and snug.
Quoted from NPO:I'd take it out, put a hexnut on the threads that are on the inside of the bracket, adjust the height of the rubber stopper until when the post is dropped it is flush with the playfiel, then crank the hexnut down night and snug.
Yeah that is probably the best.
I went with the original installation hex nut on the outside threads.
I am not sure there is enough space for the nut to be on the inside but will try it next time.
Good idea!
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:I had put loctite on the nut but the leveler came loose anyways while the nut was attached to it in place lol…
Yes, then your locking nut wasn't "locking" the stopper against the threaded bracket - I noticed when adjusting mine that other than hold the rubber stopper from turning (which is not ideal) you can't get a good lock with the locking nut. That said mine hasn't come undone and I haven't had to resort to loctite. It'd be much better if there was a slot in the bottom of the thread shaft to hold it from turning with a screwdriver while jamming the locking nut against the threaded bracket.
Quoted from Manny65:Yes, then your locking nut wasn't "locking" the stopper against the threaded bracket - I noticed when adjusting mine that other than hold the rubber stopper from turning (which is not ideal) you can't get a good lock with the locking nut. That said mine hasn't come undone and I haven't had to resort to loctite. It'd be much better if there was a slot in the bottom of the thread shaft to hold it from turning with a screwdriver while jamming the locking nut against the threaded bracket.
Yeah it is weird contraption that is for sure.
I added loctite, If it wver needs removal it will need a little love and a jam nut but it wont be for many many many many years!
Blue loctite for the win
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:Yeah that is probably the best.
I went with the original installation hex nut on the outside threads.
I am not sure there is enough space for the nut to be on the inside but will try it next time.
Good idea!
To be clear, I mean put a hexnut on this area of the threads in the photo where the red arrow is pointing:
Quoted from NPO:To be clear, I mean put a hexnut on this area of the threads in the photo where the red arrow is pointing:
[quoted image]
Yes. lol.
I am ofended now that you felt you had to do that to show me Lolol
Hello everybody
I am a happy new owner of a JP Premium and still pretty new to the hobby.
I bought the game of a guy who had 50 plays on it and didn't got to play much and so didn't even find some of the problems out of the box.
One problem was an oversensitiv pop bumper, that was a pretty easy fix adjusting the switch.
The more funny problem is, that the switches for the control room aka c-shot and the raptor pit seem to be wired incorectly. In the switch-test, the control room is the raptor pit and the raptor pit is the control room.
The switch has two cables, green and black. I am not realy sure what to do. My feeling tells me, to switch those cables but a new guy and still learning a lot about electronics.
Thanks a lot for your help!
kiM
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