Quoted from MrMikeman:

There's a caveat. T-REX MB (first T-REX mode) will always start on ramp entry. There is no setting to change that. The setting only applies to the subsequent TREX modes.
And yes if your mouth opto is flaky the game will always think the TREX has the ball and will start all modes on ramp entry - like mine is doing right now. The transmitter opto wire was cut by the jaw mech at some point. I repaired it but it's been cut again. I need to look at wire routing when I take it out to repair it again..

Quoted from EaglePin:

Also, if you haven't found it already, there's a second Jurassic Park club forum. When the game was released a few people though it would be better to start a separate forum for the Premium/LE model. Dumb idea. There's information in both threads that applies to both models.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/173#post-6891808

Quoted from chuckwurt:

You’re good. The change is due to the playfield not being perfectly flat. Incline is purely due to taste. I don’t even measure mine. I just put the back legs mostly out and front legs all the way in.

Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

Ok will keep an eye on it, I am not sure now as I have only had it for 1 day, lol and played it just this AM a couple of times.
So to recap Mike, you are saying if the Opto is flaky then the next T REX mode after the first MB should only start if it catches the ball... correct?

Thanks, yes I am in it, had found that one first and then this one. I wish it was all in one place...

Quoted from chuckwurt:

Incline is purely due to taste. I don’t even measure mine. I just put the back legs mostly out and front legs all the way in.

Quoted from Manny65:

Believe the 7 degrees comments are based off this post https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/56#post-5309181
But all games play different and you need to adjust as required to dial in your game

Quoted from fooflighter:

Yep, I’m guilty of that post …maybe I misunderstood what Mike V. said in a noisy game convention room floor, but Mike did tell me he was playtesting the game In his office at 7.0 and we were specifically talking about JP..and that Keith was playing it at 7.0 and it shoots best at that steeper angle. Obviously, Keith debunked the idea that he designed it for an exacting 7.0 in that interview. Maybe Mike was giving me advice to set it at and I mistook it as “designed for” , hard to say as it was over 2 years ago but I could swear he said Keith designed it for a steeper incline fast shooter and his games shot better steeper, maybe the two explanations became conflated. I was really new to the hobby then but over time I’ve learned to be less hyper critical of exacting measurements and just as you pointed out, set and play for what best works. Over time, I think the post gained momentum because 7.0 really is the sweet spot average for most people with the ranges from 6.7 to 7.4 just going on past posts . Maybe that’s what Mike was trying to convey and I misunderstood, if that’s what happened, I apologize for the misdirection.

Quoted from Manny65:

I certainly appreciated the post when you put it up, as like you said the game does seem to play well at (or close to) that pitch, so it definitely helped me set mine up to play well. Thanks

Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

Quick question:
Any issues with running the flippers at full power?
At full power it is swinging balls like with quite some power.
So far so good but wondering if you guys has lowered the flipper power?

Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

Quick question:
Any issues with running the flippers at full power?
At full power it is swinging balls like with quite some power.
So far so good but wondering if you guys has lowered the flipper power?

Quoted from EaglePin:

It's your machine so of course you should do whatever you feel is best for it. FWIW I have none of them on mine and after over 14,000 balls played the areas look the same as when I first got the machine.
- Raptor gate and ramp entrances: no protectors on mine and the areas still look like new.
- Upper flipper post: I used blue loctite on the upper flipper post to keep the post tightened so there hasn't been any issue there either.
- Switch slots: On Jurassic Park the ball doesn't drop directly onto the inlane switches so there's really no need for those protectors like there is on POTC where the ball is dropping directly onto the switch cutouts.
- Outhole: I personally don't see any need or reason to protect the outhole and mine doesn't have any wear there either.
- This post shows the only thing I've done to the shooter lane on all my games is this and it's worked great.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/255#post-6688937
Again, this is just my thoughts on it.

Quoted from ralphs007:

Is the whole cliffy set necessary?

Quoted from EaglePin:

Max power setting is 255. I’ve been all over the map on flipper settings on this machine as I tinkered with trying to dial in all the shots though. Not out of concern for air balls or breaking something.
I’ve currently got the lower flippers set at the default 255 for the left and 235 for the right. I have the upper flipper dialed back to 243. That’s where I finally found I liked the power setting for making the shots consistently on my machine. Originally I was dialed back on flipper power but then I started changing pitch and ended up at the current settings.
I’ve never had any problem with airballs on this machine. Only thing that ever broke on mine was the post that guards the upper flipper after about 12,000 balls played and who knows how many direct hits. Was a really easy replacement.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Necessary? Of course not. However, if you look at any modern aged pin (i.e. DMD era and later) or those before with faster ball play you will see common chewed up areas. Typically these are places where ball come into contact with edges of wood (e.g. saucers, lane eject, scoops, etc.) and/or where consistent impacts are made. A steel ball with momentum is hitting the corners of the wood time after time after time, and the wood will eventually give/deform in those areas.
Might you play your pin hundreds of times and nothing ever happens? Sure. However, I've also heard of new pins with just a few plays showing impact wear and/or even denting/chipping. Remember the playfield is just a piece of laminated wood with hidden weaknesses and flaws.
Cliffy's are insurance/protection against unwanted potential damage, so obviously a personal choice. Do you plan on ever selling this pin? If so, how do you think the value would be diminished with damage that Cliffy's would have protected? Do you plan on keeping your pin forever? How will you ever stop yourself from seeing the damage every time you play that could have been prevented?
Either way, I personally install Cliffy protectors on all of my pins, as I deem the expense worth it for the long-term value of my games.

Quoted from RTS:

After years of Cliffy kool-aid, I've become a Mylar convert. When I removed my cliffys, the improvement in play was extremely noticeable.
1. Mylar protects just as well
2, it's easier to install, easy to replace
3. It's almost invisible
4. It won't disrupt the ball path
5. It is way cheaper!
Cliffys are best for covering up existing damage.
The one exception is the Cliffy airball protector for the edge of the Munchkin pf. But the ball never rolls over that one.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Necessary? Of course not. However, if you look at any modern aged pin (i.e. DMD era and later) or those before with faster ball play you will see common chewed up areas. Typically these are places where ball come into contact with edges of wood (e.g. saucers, lane eject, scoops, etc.) and/or where consistent impacts are made. A steel ball with momentum is hitting the corners of the wood time after time after time, and the wood will eventually give/deform in those areas.
Might you play your pin hundreds of times and nothing ever happens? Sure. However, I've also heard of new pins with just a few plays showing impact wear and/or even denting/chipping. Remember the playfield is just a piece of laminated wood with hidden weaknesses and flaws.
Cliffy's are insurance/protection against unwanted potential damage, so obviously a personal choice. Do you plan on ever selling this pin? If so, how do you think the value would be diminished with damage that Cliffy's would have protected? Do you plan on keeping your pin forever? How will you ever stop yourself from seeing the damage every time you play that could have been prevented?
Either way, I personally install Cliffy protectors on all of my pins, as I deem the expense worth it for the long-term value of my games.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I don't disagree that Mylar or clear adhesive vinyl in strategic areas is definitely an option. However, in pins like DE JP where the 3 scoops get eaten alive by the ball (especially the two lower ones), Mylar is not the answer. I have also had issues where I use both. For example, I installed a Cliffy on my AFMr SOL scoop, but was having issues with balls occasionally hanging in the pop areas after adjusting the protector as best as possible. Added a small piece of Mylar to transition from playfield to Cliffy and problem solved.
As a site note, when "covering existing damage" with Cliffy protectors, you must first repair the damage (doesn't have to be visually pleasing since it will be covered). Otherwise, you'll end up with bent and banged up Cliffys that not only look bad but also cause ball obstruction issues.

Quoted from RTS:

Has anyone powder coated the shooter rod housing with the lighted amber mod?
Looking for any advice on how to remove the wiring. It looks like the tiny led's may be superglued.[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from JMCFAN:

Nothing I would mess with.... its hardly noticeable.

Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

I love it, it's fun to play, probably my favorite theme, and fits well into my collection. I've struggled trying to accel/improve with this game, so tried just about everything, and I've played a lot (3-4 hours at a time). Started per the instructions at 6.5 degree playfield angle, went to 7 degrees, as that was the general consensus here (made the control room and helicopter shots easier, but increased the SDTM and high speed sling to out-lane drains), and then dropped back to 6.8 (another recommendation here), and it works best for me (I think!) But I just can't figure out how to improve, and I brick so many damn shots. My high score is in the neighborhood of 600M, and I can get a few hundred million and 3-4 paddocks (past the T-rex a couple times) in most games, but my big games all come from keeping multi-balls alive, which is quite the challenge (and fun) with 5-6 out there! I usually try to work quickly on the CHAOS, T-Rex is an easy one, and Raptor usually comes from Smart Missile or later in the game. Play the control room modes as they become available and when I have the ball cradled on the right flipper. But the only consistent "flow" in this game for me are really fast drains, usually in the out lanes, propelled my the slingshots (like watching the slingshots play a separate game when they get going), and it's not a very friendly nudge out-lane post. I just can't improve it seems. All of my other games, the more I play, the better I get, doesn't seem so with this game. Maybe I'm missing something?

Quoted from EaglePin:

I've had a similar issue before on my POTC. Just use your hand if you can get it in there or, if not, turn a pair of pliers sideways to use as a lever to gently nudge up on the habitrail from under last cross support before the end of the trail. Doing it on the cross support will help ensure you won't be bending the end of one lower wire of the habitrial out of alignment from the other.
Just nudge up slightly under that last cross support, hold it for a second, and release, and then test clearance with a ball. Keep doing that until the ball has clearance. It could happen that over time the habitrail returns to it's original position and then you'll just need to nudge it up again. After a time or two it should be trained to stay in the spot you want it though. Shouldn't be too difficult to do.

Quoted from EaglePin:Yep that’s what happens at the flipper post. Hits to the post very, very slightly loosen it over time. I wouldn’t trim the flipper post though. When I replaced my post it was really easy to get at. Not sure what benefit you’d get by trimming it.

Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

by trimming 0.5mm off the thread it will prevent from touching the flipper assy underneath. It is marginal but it will allow for a better fit and less vibration transmitted to the post possibly.
Mine is slightly touching it.
I presume the assy has to be removed for adjusting the post? Or were you able to torque down without taking the assy off?

Quoted from EaglePin:

Yep, it's really easy to take the assembly off. Just unscrew at all four corners of the mounting bracket and it all separates with the bracket from the playfield as one unit. It was about a 5 minute job on my original flipper post for me to drop the flipper assembly apply blue Loctite, and reinstall the flipper. Same when I had to replace the flipper post.
For the flipper post, it's not so much the vibration from the flipper assembly that's causing it to loosen as it is ball strikes. Think of it as a bunch of ball strikes slightly unscrewing it over time. Sure some hit one side and some hit another but eventually it becomes loose from the ball hits. Mine has always slightly touched it also and there was no problem with either the original one or the replacement post after I applied the blue Loctite.

Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

As per Mike’s request I read 10+ pages of people bitching about the post.
Only things I found are:
Use loctite
Get a replacement post from Stern
What was different on the replacement post?
My game was made Nov 2021 in case that is an important detail… so I presume I dont need a new post?

Quoted from MrMikeman:

Not likely. My game is Sept 2019 and I also haven't needed a post. Not everyone had problems. Mine did get loose at first but it's been rock solid with no loctite for 2+ years and 3000+ games played.

Quoted from EaglePin:

Posts on some early builds were only screwed into a T-nut in the playfield. They didn't go through the playfield and use a nut on the underside to tighten. That led to posts coming loose and causing chipping. So they changed to start using longer posts with a nut when they built them. That's the replacement people were getting. Hasn't been an issue for a long time now though.

Quoted from Rat:

I have had my JP Prem for about 10 months now and it has definetly made me a better player. My 3 ball default settings high is 1.2bill and I'm hitting the shots I want fairly consistently. (Got the MXV skillshot 2 balls in a row yesterday )
But my progress is slowing and I don't think I will ever see some of the later modes the way I'm going.
I'm considering playing some 5 ball games with slightly easier settings to get further through the game and see what I'm missing.
If I use the menu to backup my settings does that backup both my scores and settings?
So if I backup and then change the settings to easier and get new high scores, later I could revert to the old backup and have my 3 ball high scores back?

Quoted from BubbaPin:

Officially joined the club last night, traded a IM pro modded for JP pro plus cash. Can't wait to tear into this game.

Quoted from purbeast:

I have been noticing recently that I am getting a lot more "jump balls" (not sure the right term) where the ball just goes off the playfield more than it used to. It happens when I am hitting the upper flipper and it will like ride up somehow on top of the green plastic back in the back right corner near the T-Rex. I don't really know what is causing it but does this happen to anyone else?
I have also noticed it happening sometimes when I hit the spinner shot where it pops off the playfield sometimes as it's turning that sharp corner. I don't get the pop up when I hit the upper flipper shot and it is going around though it's only through the spinner.
Just curious if this happens to anyone else.

Quoted from JohnTTwo:

Just got over a billion for the first time. 1,700,000. After tuning the game up. Shots not making it up the helipad now don’t hit the rubber at the end of the guide and randomly go SDTM, nice feed into the right flipper. Adjusted the C target to register it with a normal hit not a slam. Turned the sling power up so they don’t feed the drains as much. It’s like a whole new game for scoring.
Any other tuning tricks? Do some consider tuning a game up cheating I more then doubled my previous high score.

Quoted from JohnTTwo:

Do some consider tuning a game up cheating I more then doubled my previous high score.