Have you adjusted your slingshot power? That was a recommendation given in here when I first got mine and it has made a difference with the slingshot -> outlane issues I was having so often prior.

As for my toughest shot, it's gotta be the "O" in CHAOS. My second would be the right ramp too. I don't know why that damn shot is such a pain in the ass for me. I can nail the left ramp so much easier. I have chalked it up to me being left handed as my excuse/reason as to why I can hit the left one easier than the right lol.

As for my strategies, I usually don't really have one specifically. I try to hit the skill shots on a plunge then after that I usually see myself trying to spell CHAOS. But usually because I miss so many shots, my game plan changes because I start to get other options to open up before CHAOS does, and then from that point on my game is basically a huge clusterfuck of me just trying to do too much at once lol.

Lately I've just focused on spinning the truck to start T-Rex modes. There are a lot of points available in those modes, and you'll also be pleasantly surprised at how many paddocks you still start and play through as you do it. Paddocks are still started and played during the T-Rex modes, so while I'm playing them I still usually make pretty good progress in the game without even trying for it.

Toughest shot for me by far is the "O" lane right orbit.

I swear T-Rex multiball is like my WORST mode for some reason. Every time I just get no points and lose a ball so quickly and it's over. Sometimes when I see the timer counting down I just cradle the ball until it ends because I always just do so bad at it lol.

I will certainly dial these back! Curious what you set yours at. Thanks!

It defaults to 32 (on scale of 0-64 I think) and I moved it down to around 18 or so based on recommendations.

Yeah I've done that too and have gotten it up to over 5 million. But I still always end up losing quickly for the most part. I have had good runs don't get me wrong, but considering I pretty much get it in every game I play, generally speaking I am terrible at it lol.

JP:PE - Pro or Prem Edition? ... arh, you mention the raptor pit door (gate?) so assume you have the Prem

I typically start by short plunging and getting the "C" which gives a secret skill shot. If I'm cradled up on the left flipper, I'll drop the raptor gate and lock a ball in the raptor pen (I find there is less chance of draining from the left flipper). This way as I progress through paddocks I'll be working towards CHAOS and Raptor MBs. Typically the MB's (including T-Rex) are where I get big points, however Pteranodon Attack can payout big as well. Yes there are lots going on but this allows for multiple strategies and for you to vary or target specific areas, which keeps the game new and exciting. And yes JP will punish you if you brick a shot, but this makes it all the more rewarding when you have that breakout game.

As for most difficult shot for me, ... that'd be the one that is flashing (especially when there is a jackpot associated with it) lol

I did a color scheme somewhat similar to yours but it's still a bit different. Basically everything from the top of the slingshots and below is orange, and everything above is green, other than the 4 rubbers around the amber pops.

My game has a very "orangish" hue to the lower part of the playfield with my LED flippers, amber shooter, LED flipper buttons, and trough light, and now with the green LED speaker lights and just the general color of the foliage of the upper part, back box included, it's more green up that way.

And most of the plastics around the slingshot have the orangish hue and same with the pop bumpers, and then where the other rubbers/posts are there is more of the foliage theme i the plastics around there so I thought green would blend in well with that. Then the little rubbers that just are on top that the ball never touches, those will be green too in a sense they are kind of like random trees/bushes sticking up.

I hope it turns out as cool as I am hoping lol.

So my right flipper has started to feel just a bit loose compared to the left. Like theres less spring resistance on it then the left and its messing with me a bit. I havent had to adjust flippers yet in my pinball life. Is the way to fix this to mess with the leaf switch connected to the flipper button? I see the right one has a bigger gap then left, then again the right is controlling to flippers. See pics below. Would I just use a plier to adjust?

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What do you mean when you say the flipper feels a bit loose? Is it that you're hitting the button and there's a delay in the flipper activating, or is it that the flipper doesn't seem to have as much power anymore, or something else?

If the flipper seemed fine before and now it's acting differently, then the leaf switch for the button likely wouldn't be the issue unless you recently did something that caused the leaf to get bent differently than it was before.

If it's that the flipper doesn't feel strong or seems like it's giving a bit when the ball hits it then I'd check the rivet on the coil stop on the flipper mech first. If that rivet is loose then the flipper can lose power and seem a bit loose. It's a very easy part to pull off and check.

The flipper power is fine and I dont think its the coil stop. I think its just that the actual pressing of the flipper button requires less power to press then the left. Like the spring inside the button has become less restrictive. So do I maybe just need to replace the buttons? Maybe give me a reason to try out LED buttons or something.

This seemed to have happened after changing the flipper rubbers but i dunno why that would do anything. Probably just noticed it after.

No need to replace the buttons. First tighten the screws holding the flipper switch to the cabinet more. The tension on the button comes from the switch blad pressing up against the button. The spring inside the button really doesn’t do anything.

Dear Santa,

I'm upset I didn't get the mods I wanted for my JP Premium..

So I guess, I need to find my side armor and something cool for the helicopter

Can I see all the helicopter mods you guys have done I am also hoping to find the side armor in stock somewhere..

Seems to have been sold out for awhile now.

Thanks chuck. So those two screws holding the wood with metal leafs on?

Yes. Tighten those first. If that doesn’t help, adjust the switch leaf so it pushes on the button more than it already is.

Ok will try. To adjust the leaf just bend with plyer? And bend the one with the bend already in it? Or move the more straight one?

Thanks!

Use a switch adjustment tool. Google it. Bend the leaf that is touching the flipper button so it’s putting more pressure on it.

Thanks man. Will buy the tool. Appreciate it as always

Oh man, I thought I was the only one playing this way!

While the ball save is on just let the ball drain if it’s not set up for the far left red shot that doubles the value. Then do the same for the left ramp when it’s up next. If you do it well you will have 4x-6x your value before your ball save is over. Then try to hit the next one in sequence and you're off to the races if you went in with 2.5M or more.

I too used to hate this mode but it’s actually more viable to score big than chaos or raptor, because you are not typically distracted by other modes also going on. Imo at least (average player speaking here).

It’s an Elwin - it will punish you for bricking shots.

Always get the ‘C’ shot before capturing your first dino.

That's his MO, eh? Good to know.

Need some help before I foolhardily blow a node board. First pin, so be gentle.

Grabbed both a lighting kit (https://www.pinballbulbs.com/products/jurassic-park-stern-dark-room-brightening-kit 4 spotlights, flipper lighting, backboard lighting, and speaker lights) and YoYoKopters T-Rex Alive mod.

Independently both work fine for me, but they both are intended to draw power off of CN6. The lighting kit harness included an open 3 pin-molex presumably to power additional lights/mods, so I got the bright idea of crimping on a molex to the trex unit and calling it a day. This results in flickering from the spotlights, as well as slow jerky motion from the t-rex (clearly not working as intended).

My guess is that I'm trying to draw too much power from CN6, but I could also have just done a hack job at trying to crimp the new molex connector.

What's the cleanest way to get power to the t-rex motor if I want to avoid CN6? (Also, for future reference, how do you calculate the load mods are drawing? It's not as if the mod-makers offer spec sheets, I'm guessing I should pickup a multimeter...)

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The easiest way to get power to the Trex motor is to leave the node board it connects to alone. The easiest way to get power to your mods (if it’s not interactive) is to pull it directly from the power supply. Not sure if your mods are ‘interactive’ or just additional lighting so that’s all I can offer atm. I’ve added crimp rings/‘horseshoes’ to mods to add them to psu’s many times.

To calculate the total current/power draw, you’ll need the schematic of the circuit you’re drawing from and stats regarding the peak loads of the mods you’re adding. Not the simplest task for a leisure electronics guy but if you have formal training not terrible.

My point is, take the safest route and understand that the designers of the node boards are already running the circuits on the ragged edge of capacity. Play it safe and either get an expansion power distribution board or draw from the psu directly.

Appreciate the response. The mod I have adds a servo for moving the t-rex head in the pro model and that is what I'm trying to power (it doesn't have it's own node board). That motor and all my lights both want power from CN6, which doesn't seem to be feasible, and I'm looking for somewhere else I could easily draw power for the t-rex mod. The crimp rings/horseshoes sound feasible - could you elaborate on what that might look like?

one way to get a couple hundred mil fast is to clear the first paddock (2 trex shots, one rescue, yellow dispatch arrow,) and light the control room...but don't start a control room mod until you open the raptor paddock and trap a ball.
Then...start control room mode, choose the 3rd option (where you just have to hit the blue lights, not virus or power) then get the raptor tri ball and start killing all the blue arrows! stacking modes works!

Yeah but that would mean you have to last long enough and have good enough ball control to be able to do all that shit in the correct order!

The main power supply has screw posts that hold the feeds for the game. Just make sure you’re drawing from the correct voltage posts.

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Right Ramp to me is very hard on the fly, but can be timed with a cradle fairly consistently. After about 2,000 plays I even got a little used to the O shot where now I feel fairly comfortable when I have to hit it (at the beginning if it was a rescue shot I just ignored it).

If I'm in a tournament the strategy is just clear first paddock and go for system boot for points. If at home aiming for highest score/completion I'm aiming the truck for the maximum amount of paddocks. I find in most games of the three objectives (paddocks, control room, trex) that getting through the 4 trex modes is the least common. So therefore when the ball is on the upper flipper, i've moved towards a simple aim to advance t-rex shots when the ball is there. Once you're good enough, getting through the paddocks isn't all that super tough.

Getting the paddock that adds 8 seconds to timers helps you get the fossils, and really the main key to start blowing up the score is being able to hit the smart missle. All my top scores are games where I was timed well with smacking that 3-5x. You can get extra balls, fossils, clear paddocks & get extra rescues with the smart missle. If you manage to get the extra ball with the smart missle it becomes a 6 ball game assuming you capture the T-Rex. 7 ball game if you get 30 rescues, and 8 ball game with some fossils.

The outlanes are brutal based on the positioning of the posts, so the game is all about getting that 6-8 ball game.

Both the T-Rex alive mod as well as some other particular mods (i.e. Tilt Toppers, for example) have the small female molex at its end to connect to that C6 power there in the back box there at that lower board. At one time I had a Tilt topper which hooked into that location, but ultimately exchanged it for the T- Rex alive mod. Really great mod by the way.

Anyway, there is a 4-way power splitter for Stern Spike/Spike2 that connects to that hook up there at the back box, is out of the way and accessible (magnetized to the back box), and offers 4 additional similar connection ports.

https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-600-0489-00

I would definitely undo any homebrew splice/crimps that you added to the T-Rex mod and leave that system alone as it is.

That T-Rex mod is a really great mod, and I have it as well for my pro and am really happy with it. I recommend to install it exactly per it's instructions. The gentleman that created that mod is very bright about how he sources his power, although there is no room for any alterations to the system he created. That said, with the above linked Stern splicer, you can power other items that have this particular molex end connector separately there at the back box.

Now, if you have a different / larger version of molex requiring 12 volt power, there are additional splitters that are offered from several different companies from two-way to 4+-way. These typically attach to the 12 volt open end that is usually there at the front of the cabinet.

For example:

https://pinballpro.net/shop/stern-pinball-12v-power-splitter-x2/

https://mezelmods.com/products/pinball-12v-deluxe-power-splitter

The Smart Missle shot is such a satisfying shot to hit. It is amazing how you are able to get the ball through such an insanely tight gap (if the truck is on the right). But, yes, I agree that the Smart Missle shot can help you out quite a bit. I often try to for 'Clear Paddock' as I get higher on the map.

I understand hitting the posts can send your ball to the outlanes (my punishment for a bad shot), but what bugs me is hitting a target / raptor door and having the ball go in the outlane. Maybe I need to dial my flipper power back a bit?

Try going for the raptor gate off the left flipper, rather than the right - this changes the angle and power the ball deflects, and I'll often get the ball simply coming back to the flippers for an easy cradle.

Okay since modding pins is addicting and I've done pretty much everything to mine I want to, I am thinking of getting some side art blades for mine.

Right now my favorite I've seen are the Tilt Graphics ones.

https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/product-page/jurassic-park-stern-gameblades

But I am also open to other options and am just curious if those of you who have some and have pictures of them installed, if you could post some pics in here so I can do some comparisons.

Thanks,.

The blades from Wizard Mod are nice and match the backboard. https://wizardmod.com/collections/wizblades-pinball-blades/products/jurassic-park-stern-pinball-wizblades

I have had two JP pros. I put Tilt Graphics in one, and Stern in the other. I love them both honestly. I think I slightly prefer the Stern, but I do not think you can go wrong with either.

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Thanks for that. I had never seen the Stern ones installed so that helps.

The one thing I don't really like about the Stern ones is the scale of them. It's like zoomed in on the Raptors head and just feels a bit out of place in the grand scheme of the scale of everything else on the graphics and in the pin. But it is also cool because it's kind of like the Raptors are watching you and reminds of the scene where the "clever girl" gets her kill.

I like how the tilt ones, at least on the left side, the wires almost play perfectly into the wires on the T-Rex fence that are broken. I also like all the foliage on them and think it blends in nicely with the overall theme.

dacdjsteve do you have a pic of those installed on a machine? They do look pretty cool but that stock photo probably is photoshopped and it's pretty blurry once you zoom in.

Sorry I am at work so no photos on the game but I went with the RR pro blades on mine (premium) to try and most closely match the style and colors of the PF. The Wizard blades would have been my second choice followed by the Tilt blades and lastly the Stern blades. I just don't get the big dino eyeball on the side art. It just doesn't do anything for me.

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If you get a chance over the next couple days can you snap some pics of those installed? I hadn't seen those installed before and I'm not in a super rush or anything. They look nice from those pics and are similar in color to the Wizard ones.

Here are the wizmod's (premium versions) installed in my premium. I also bought the stern & pin graffix blades but never installed. If interested in either, pm me.

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I have the Stern art blades on my JP Prem, but I really prefer the art blades from Tilt Graphics.

How difficult is it to remove existing art blades in favor of replacing them with an alternate set? Will damage to the wood result from removing the old blades?

I asked my exact question... I have the Stern ones as well... blah,.......

Markharris2000 has it installed on his JP Premium. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/149#post-6353380

Its not hard at all actually. I replaced a set of art blades on my JP pro. They peeled off nicely and left a little residue (take your time and go slow). I cleaned up the residue with a microfiber cloth and some simple green. Will post some pictures later.

Those look very nice I hadn't even seen those before. Those definitely match the cabinet artwork of the premium as a whole better than the pro too.

Thanks for that link. Those actually look very nice as well. They do match damn perfectly.

I'll see if I can get a photo tonight.

Every set of blades I have had that are the thicker stock type are very easy to remove. The only ones I wouldn't even attempt to remove (nor would I want to) are my LOTR sillyoldelf blades because that are a thinner 1 ply material that I am sure would come off, just not in one piece.

The "premium" version of the PF blades never made since to me. I'd rather have the art match the playfield that it's literally adjacent to rather that the BG that's 3 feet above it.