(Topic ID: 248582)

Jurassic Park (Stern 2019) Owners Club. Welcome! To Jurassic park.....

By Scribbles

2 years ago


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There are 13,039 posts in this topic. You are on page 247 of 261.
#12301 59 days ago
Quoted from purbeast:

Thanks for all of the suggestions guys.
I'm heading out of town tomorrow and packing up but I'm hoping to get some time later with it and will check out those adjustment settings for the trough kickout power and the slings possibly. I did see the other holes to move the posts and was going to play around with that possibly.
It's just strange when I went to a guys house to check his out and I missed out on buying it, the one game I played was like my best ever and was 225 million. I wasn't getting the random drains or anything like I do now. I'm going to hit him up and see if he remembers those settings.

The outlanes each have posts that can be moved. If you reinstall the posts to the lower pre-dirilled holes, that’ll reduce outlane drains. Also reduce the sling power can help with the frenetic back and forth that is so dangerous.

#12302 59 days ago
Quoted from StoneyCreek:

Also reduce the sling power can help with the frenetic back and forth that is so dangerous.

This is great idea....will try

#12303 59 days ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

This is great idea....will try

Funny, I was thinking yesterday when playing that the slings need to be toned down a bit. Let us know how this goes for you.

#12304 59 days ago
Quoted from Only_Pinball:

Funny, I was thinking yesterday when playing that the slings need to be toned down a bit. Let us know how this goes for you.

Reducing the sling power works well

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/246#post-6622643

#12305 59 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Reducing the sling power works well

Thanks for posting this. Mine seem brutal

#12306 59 days ago
Quoted from StoneyCreek:

The outlanes each have posts that can be moved. If you reinstall the posts to the lower pre-dirilled holes, that’ll reduce outlane drains. Also reduce the sling power can help with the frenetic back and forth that is so dangerous.

That’s a great suggestion. Never thought of that. My slings are wild as well. I’m not sure if I dislike it but they are definitely wild compared to my other pins.

#12307 59 days ago

That tutorial led by keith was really helpful. Not sure how I missed that before. This game is still so good.

Remind me - going for control panel and trex modes give you what as a reason to play them ?

#12308 59 days ago
Quoted from delt31:

That tutorial led by keith was really helpful. Not sure how I missed that before. This game is still so good.
Remind me - going for control panel and trex modes give you what as a reason to play them ?

You need to have played Visitor Centre, Control Room and Museum Mayhem mini-wizard modes to play Escape Nublar

#12309 58 days ago
Quoted from delt31:

That tutorial led by keith was really helpful. Not sure how I missed that before. This game is still so good.
Remind me - going for control panel and trex modes give you what as a reason to play them ?

Most of the points outside of the wizard modes are in control room and TREX modes. I think the problem that people have with this game is they just try to move through the paddocks and catch the dinosaurs since it is front and center. While fun compared to stacking raptor or chaos Multiball with a control room or TREX mode, the point value is far far less. Most of my 2 billion plus games are when I specifically go for this strategy and mostly ignore the paddocks. A good raptor and TREX rampage stack can get you right around a billion. You can also pick which TREX mode you play after the feed TREX Multiball. After you spell TREX and the mode is ready, if you want to play a different mode, just hit the truck for a full spin and it will go to the next mode, the later two TREX modes are worth more than the first two if you play them well.
After the 4 TREX modes you also unlock Museum Mayhem and after the 3 control panel modes you unlock secure control room. Playing these two mini wizards as well as visitors center gets you to escape nublar while beating all three of those and escaping nublar gets you to When Dinosaurs Ruled the Earth.

#12310 58 days ago

Anyone replace the stock raptor on the premium LE? Looking for a better version

#12311 58 days ago
Quoted from Only_Pinball:

Funny, I was thinking yesterday when playing that the slings need to be toned down a bit. Let us know how this goes for you.

I did 2 things. Turned down the sling power a bit, and widened the gap on the leaf switches a hair to reduce sensitivity. This made the slings much more forgiving and comparable to my other machines.

#12312 58 days ago
Quoted from delt31:

That tutorial led by keith was really helpful. Not sure how I missed that before. This game is still so good.
Remind me - going for control panel and trex modes give you what as a reason to play them ?

Quoted from Manny65:

You need to have played Visitor Centre, Control Room and Museum Mayhem mini-wizard modes to play Escape Nublar

Then completing them all gets you to the final mode.

When Dinosaurs Ruled the Earth

Secret super-wizard “epilogue” mode awarded for successfully completing Visitor’s Center, Museum Mayhem, Secure Control Room, and Escape Nublar.

#12313 58 days ago
Quoted from delt31:

Anyone replace the stock raptor on the premium LE? Looking for a better version

I think Lior was thinking of doing one.....not sure how that is panning out...

#12314 58 days ago
Quoted from Scribbles:

I did 2 things. Turned down the sling power a bit

What did you turn it down to?

Thanks!

#12315 58 days ago
Quoted from delt31:

Anyone replace the stock raptor on the premium LE? Looking for a better version

Had mine painted. Looks so much better.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/179#post-6059089

#12316 58 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

2. The slings can be quite aggressive on JP, so if you are getting lots of outlane drains off the slings you can dial down the sling power in the settings - some owners have posted about this previously. Also if the slings are overly sensitive you can slightly widen the gap on the sling switches, although I'd start with lowering the power first.

In addition to this and all the other helpful advice folks have replied with, the game changer for my out of hand slings was to remove the super bands rubbers I had put on them and put the stock, regular rubbers back on + widen the switches themselves. The super bands were so tight that they were nearly pressing the switches contacts together all the time, as is. For me it was so bad that even the slightest glazing of the ball on the rubbers, say dropping down from the control room would send the ball flying out the right outlane.

#12317 58 days ago
Quoted from timlah79:

In addition to this and all the other helpful advice folks have replied with, the game changer for my out of hand slings was to remove the super bands rubbers I had put on them and put the stock, regular rubbers back on + widen the switches themselves. The super bands were so tight that they were nearly pressing the switches contacts together all the time, as is. For me it was so bad that even the slightest glazing of the ball on the rubbers, say dropping down from the control room would send the ball flying out the right outlane.

Yep great point Tim - definitely worth checking if you've switch out the rubbers!

#12319 58 days ago
Quoted from Only_Pinball:

What did you turn it down to?
Thanks!

Depends on how sensitive your sling switches are, your PF pitch and whether you still want a degree of "the ball is wild" as to what is the best setting - it's also pretty easy to adjust, so play around with it to your liking.

Slingshot power setting is Adjust -> Game -> Feature Adjustment# 306 - range is 8 to 64 and the factory default is 32. I have mine on 18

Edit: Is Switch# 306 on 1.02, haven't checked what it is now (possibly #307)

#12320 58 days ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

Did you paint? Or have it done somewhere?

Pinball_Gizzard painted it (details are in Mr_Tantrum's post)

#12321 58 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Depends on how sensitive your sling switches are, your PF pitch and whether you still want a degree of "the ball is wild" as to what is the best setting - it's also pretty easy to adjust, so play around with it to your liking.
Slingshot power setting is Adjust -> Game -> Feature Adjustment# 306 - range is 8 to 64 and the factory default is 32. I have mine on 18

Adjustment #307 on mine FWIW. I just turned mine down to 20 and it’s so much better. Thank you.

#12322 58 days ago
Quoted from Alattig:

Adjustment #307 on mine FWIW. I just turned mine down to 20 and it’s so much better. Thank you.

Arh yes - my notes were from when running 1.02. Unfortunately Stern change the adjustment numbers between code versions

#12323 58 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Pinball_Gizzard painted it (details are in Mr_Tantrum's post)

Correct. You can PM him if you are interested and I'm sure he'd be happy to give you a quote to do yours.

#12324 58 days ago

I'm sure this has been discussed a lot, but it's not a key post. I am having some issues with my T-Rex. He swings his head way too far to his right and pushes up against the fence plastic and wires and make a clicking sound because it's pushed to the limit. Are there some guidelines on how to adjust this sucker? I know it's been a common issue so probably documented in here somewhere. Thx!

#12325 58 days ago
Quoted from WackyBrakke:

I'm sure this has been discussed a lot, but it's not a key post. I am having some issues with my T-Rex. He swings his head way too far to his right and pushes up against the fence plastic and wires and make a clicking sound because it's pushed to the limit. Are there some guidelines on how to adjust this sucker? I know it's been a common issue so probably documented in here somewhere. Thx!

Check out the T-Rex adjustment key posts on the other JP thread https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club

Some people have noticed their T-Rex nudging the fence and wires but sounds like yours is going even further - hopefully the adjustment posts will sort you out

#12326 58 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Check out the T-Rex adjustment key posts on the other JP thread https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club
Some people have noticed their T-Rex nudging the fence and wires but sounds like yours is going even further - hopefully the adjustment posts will sort you out

Quoted from Manny65:

Check out the T-Rex adjustment key posts on the other JP thread https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club
Some people have noticed their T-Rex nudging the fence and wires but sounds like yours is going even further - hopefully the adjustment posts will sort you out

Thx! I read through those and worked with the 3 adjustments, But no matter what i do he slams his face into the fence and the motor goes click click click. I should probably call Stern

#12327 58 days ago
Quoted from WackyBrakke:

Thx! I read through those and worked with the 3 adjustments, But no matter what i do he slams his face into the fence and the motor goes click click click. I should probably call Stern

Original Trex or upgrade? Have you removed him for any reason??

#12328 58 days ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

Original Trex or upgrade? Have you removed him for any reason??

I removed it today to install the Lior T-Rex I removed again to inspect when I started having issues but it all seems to be assembled correctly. What am I missing?

#12329 58 days ago

So I'm sending my stepper motor driver board and T-Rex assembly with stepper motor back to stern for troubleshooting repair as it's not moving at all horizontally.

I'm almost positive if it's anything it's the driver board as the bipolar motor windings look good ohms rating is holding constant at around 9.7 ohms on each coil

Took out the stepper board and flipped it over and found this on the back side of the 48 volt input to the board and also the capacitor... When plugged into the system it's showing 48 volts on a multimeter and no really clear way of testing the capacitor other than starting out at one value and going to Infinity when the probes are placed on it aside from desoldering it from the board...

So what does this look like to you? is this just some sort of soldering residue or could this be the result of a flash spark that shot through the pcb from a 48 volt over current short?

Thanks all for looking

20211127_202628 (resized).jpg20211127_202617 (resized).jpg20211127_202641 (resized).jpg

#12330 58 days ago

Looks better but still a cheap toy. Looking for as nicer one like the trex replacement.

#12331 58 days ago

Looks better but still a cheap toy. Looking for as nicer one ebay.com link: itm
Cheap toy but looks great in game

#12332 58 days ago
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgi know you have premium but get creative!

#12333 58 days ago

I was thinking of mixing up some colors with some hobby paint and painting the silver screws on my Raptor. It's gotta look better than shiny silver screws.

#12334 57 days ago
Quoted from WackyBrakke:

I removed it today to install the Lior T-Rex I removed again to inspect when I started having issues but it all seems to be assembled correctly. What am I missing?

If you're talking about this happening when Lior's custom head is installed, the solution is already covered in the install video I made for his mod. You should have received a private link to that video when you purchased the mod. If it happens with the stock head installed or without any head mold at all, you have a different issue. I'm going to assume it only happens with some head mold attached. If so it's because the mold is pushing against the back plastic when the t-rex turns left. You need to adjust the spacers. Again this is all covered my install video. You should ask on or consult Lior's topic for answers to this. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-jurassic-park-sculpted-mods-by-the-art-of-pinball

#12335 57 days ago
Quoted from freddy:

[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]i know you have premium but get creative!

Ordered this for my pro! I had a premium and sold it but loving the pro I just got a month ago

#12336 57 days ago
Quoted from freddy:

[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]i know you have premium but get creative!

Yes this is what I’m talking about. Can you install this though on a premium and have it function like stock?

#12337 57 days ago
Quoted from delt31:

Yes this is what I’m talking about. Can you install this though on a premium and have it function like stock?

get creative it’s only $9.99

#12338 57 days ago
Quoted from timlah79:

If you're talking about this happening when Lior's custom head is installed, the solution is already covered in the install video I made for his mod. You should have received a private link to that video when you purchased the mod. If it happens with the stock head installed or without any head mold at all, you have a different issue. I'm going to assume it only happens with some head mold attached. If so it's because the mold is pushing against the back plastic when the t-rex turns left. You need to adjust the spacers. Again this is all covered my install video. You should ask on or consult Lior's topic for answers to this. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-jurassic-park-sculpted-mods-by-the-art-of-pinball

I did watch the video and installed the shorter spacers, it’s not hitting the plastic. Something else is going on. Thanks for the idea though! I probably messed something up removing and putting the mech back in. But I’ve rechecked all the connections and they are correct. I also confirmed the switch is working and detecting middle correctly. So odd that it swings to far to his right. Oh well, I’ll dig into it more when I get back home next weekend. If anyone has any other thoughts let me know. Thanks!

#12339 57 days ago
Quoted from delt31:

Looks better but still a cheap toy. Looking for as nicer one like the trex replacement.

I wanted it to still articulate, so after looking at several other models I decided I wasn't going to be able to make them work and went the painting route.

#12340 57 days ago

I don’t think the stock raptor looks cheap at all.

#12341 57 days ago
Quoted from WackyBrakke:

I removed it today to install the Lior T-Rex I removed again to inspect when I started having issues but it all seems to be assembled correctly. What am I missing?

I had almost the exact same issue... I removed my Lior one to install a couple of screws that fell out of the lower jaw...when I reinstalled it did just what yours is doing...and any adjustment I made would not stay...

I reinstalled the original and set all settings to default and its perfect. I think what I had going on is the wiring bundle was not routed correctly and was binding on my reinstall of the Lior head...

I plan to go back and install the Lior one being careful but not right now..... I want to paly some first.... LOL

#12342 57 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I wanted it to still articulate, so after looking at several other models I decided I wasn't going to be able to make them work and went the painting route.

Lior is planning a raptor....just not for a while....

#12343 57 days ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

So I'm sending my stepper motor driver board and T-Rex assembly with stepper motor back to stern for troubleshooting repair as it's not moving at all horizontally.
I'm almost positive if it's anything it's the driver board as the bipolar motor windings look good ohms rating is holding constant at around 9.7 ohms on each coil
Took out the stepper board and flipped it over and found this on the back side of the 48 volt input to the board and also the capacitor... When plugged into the system it's showing 48 volts on a multimeter and no really clear way of testing the capacitor other than starting out at one value and going to Infinity when the probes are placed on it aside from desoldering it from the board...
So what does this look like to you? is this just some sort of soldering residue or could this be the result of a flash spark that shot through the pcb from a 48 volt over current short?
Thanks all for looking
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

It’s either solvent from flux removal (should only have been alcohol) and not likely to cause a failure.

Or it’s a fried solder run under the laminate. My guess is something on the 48v line shorted (capacitor?? Though that cap looks pretty good) and fried that run.

#12344 57 days ago

Just got a "new" Jurassic Park" Premium. All is good, except static sound from speakers. Only mod related to electrical was addition of pin stadium lights. I checked speaker connections, and all looks good. Is this a similar issue like JJ pins that need a sound filter? Or, something else to check? Thanks in advance.

#12345 57 days ago
Quoted from Lounge:

It’s either solvent from flux removal (should only have been alcohol) and not likely to cause a failure.
Or it’s a fried solder run under the laminate. My guess is something on the 48v line shorted (capacitor?? Though that cap looks pretty good) and fried that run.

Thank you much for taking the time to look and offer your input...

I will have a new board on the way soon courtesy of my Distributor and Stern support and a motor just in case or for spare parts

#12346 56 days ago

My right orbit doesn’t always register. Some times it take me 2-4 shots to register the ‘O’ in chaos.

Opto issue? Alignment?

Any suggestions on what to test?

#12347 56 days ago
Quoted from PinPickle:

My right orbit doesn’t always register. Some times it take me 2-4 shots to register the ‘O’ in chaos.
Opto issue? Alignment?
Any suggestions on what to test?

Sounds like optics, and man alive, of all the shots to have to repeat, that would be my last choice

#12348 56 days ago
Quoted from PinPickle:

My right orbit doesn’t always register. Some times it take me 2-4 shots to register the ‘O’ in chaos.
Opto issue? Alignment?
Any suggestions on what to test?

First go into switch test mode and verify that the right obit entry opto is working

There have been some people report that fast moving orbit shots are not being detected, whereby the issue is that the ball has some air and doesn't fully block the opto beam - if the opto is working (the first thing to confirm) then try putting some black tape over the lower half of the opto (or the hole in the ball guide). If this solves the problem then you can add some washers to raise the opto so that you can dispense with the tape (the tape is just to confirm that this solves the issue) - check out https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/90#post-5454375

#12349 56 days ago
Quoted from Scribbles:

Sounds like optics, and man alive, of all the shots to have to repeat, that would be my last choice
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I couldn’t agree more. Hate that shot!

Quoted from Manny65:

First go into switch test mode and verify that the right obit entry opto is working
There have been some people report that fast moving orbit shots are not being detected, whereby the issue is that the ball has some air and doesn't fully block the opto beam - if the opto is working (the first thing to confirm) then try putting some black tape over the lower half of the opto (or the hole in the ball guide). If this solves the problem then you can add some washers to raise the opto so that you can dispense with the tape (the tape is just to confirm that this solves the issue) - check out https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/90#post-5454375

Interesting… I will definitely try this. Thank you!!

If I fire one around the orbit and keep the right flipper up it will travel back around. Some times 2 loops don’t work. Thank you

#12350 51 days ago

Can someone point me how to adjust the right outlane post?

I did the left one easily and it was pretty obvious, but the right one wasn't quite the same. It was like 12 days ago but I remember getting the nut off the bottom part but the actual post wouldn't come out at all. It was almost like it was threaded however I didn't have a way/tool to get it to turn with all the stuff in the way.

There are 13,039 posts in this topic. You are on page 247 of 261.

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