On my machine, the wireform is centered on the ramp with each wire just on the outside each side of the ramp.

Yes that is correct - it just ensures the ball is roughly centered when going up the U-ramp

It's to stop the ball from hitting the scoop edge head on

Where did you get the jeep upgrade? Can’t seem to locate one. Thanks!

Been noted in this and LE thread countless times: Jada Jurassic Park Jeep Wrangler 1/43 available on eBay

I added a green LED in the mouth of this spitting dino toy and wire it to the spinner light so it flashes when you hit the spinner. I also replaced my pop bodies and skirts with transparent yellow and clear as well as some custom tops. But of course now my pop switches are not registering. The pop coils work but the switch dont activate in test mode. Anyone have a clue what I broke?

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Thanks! Just joined this thread so apologies.

No need to apologize,that's what this club thread is for

I mean, pinside search sux so there is that.

So true!

The 1:43 version is getting VERY hard to find. Lots of 1:32 and a few 1:24, but hard to find the 1:43 version... keep looking as they do come up from time to time.

Weird question, but how do people shoot this game?

By that I mean, do you use the playfield art or just general feel and timing of shots? I asked a few people this question and nobody knew how they shot, they just did. On other machines I use playfield art to make my shots, but JP has some tight shots and I can't get that to work here.
Thanks!

$16 shipped for a used one in what looks like pristine condition.

ebay.com link: itm

But you've been around Pinside long enough to know how to use the search feature.

Seriously, if anyone is not aware of how Pinside search works then I highly suggest you play around with it (both global and within a given thread) as it is pretty robust. Doesn't mean you'll find the answer you are looking for every time, and you may still post a question or response that has already been given before (I'm certainly guilty of this). I know we all want to be helpful, but for crotchety old guys like myself it is a little frustrating to be in a thread where the same set of questions are asked multiple times over every time a new run of a given title is released.

Nobody wants to kill a new owner's joy and the tone of my post here is not meant to be critical but supportive and informative, so please take it as such.

@flash71, I think I still have an extra Jeep in my pinball stash so if your efforts to find one come up empty, please PM me and I'd be happy to offer to you at a fair price (assuming I'm remembering correctly that I have one).

So after I sold my JP, I ended up with a few extra mod bits that I never got around to installing. I've got the proper 1:43 Jada Jeep and also the blue Matchbox helicopter. I'll sell them both for my cost plus shipping to you.

Jeep is $35+Shipping and the Helicopter is $50+shipping. These were VERY hard to come by this late in the JP Mod game!

EDIT: Helicopter sold. Jeep still available.

I don’t know the answer to your question, but can we all agree that the smart missile/CHAOS shot is one of the tightest around?

This game has to have the hardest multiballs out of any game I've played! Hit 423M yesterday, that's my best yet.

When you shoot/aim are do you use the games artwork as a guide? For instance, I aim off of locations from the map/logo for most of my shots. I feel like I make things hard for myself. Some shots I just do without aiming as I have the feel down, but some I really try to aim off of the art. For instance, from the left flipper, if I shoot right as it's about to touch the crack in the logo, that gets me the PTERANODON ramp.

Does that make sense? I have asked around and some people aim off "feel" and some aim off "game art". I am still a new player and just wanted to know what I should be teaching myself for JP as the shots are tough. Game Art or Feel.

I’ve tried using art but doesn’t seem super consistent. Sometimes the pinball is spinning like mad and isn’t alway going to yield the same trajectory in my experience. Unless you are setting up your shot from a controlled roll.

So do you just aim off "feel" then for while the ball is moving? It's hard to get control in JP so I think a change of strategy is in order for me.

For me it’s more like a timing. A faster moving or slower moving pinball flipped at the same point or location on the flipper won’t always follow the same path. It seems I need to compensate for what the pinball is doing when I flip it. I’m no pro so maybe a more seasoned player could explain better.

Some of the 80's pinballs it was very difficult to even get multiball started and didn't happen every game. If you did get multiball it would typically last 10 - 20 seconds and you could loose two balls before even getting to flip them, no ball save.

My JP is arriving next week, but from videos I have seen I think the multiball play looks fair and balanced, earned and not a gimme. Unlike GnR which is a great game, but multiball happens so frequently and ball saves are so long that balls are draining all over the palace and it doesn't matter. I know some players love it, but IMO it devalues multiball and deminishes the skill of actually being able to keep balls in play. (Sorry for the slight deviation off topic, but it is relevant when discussing JP multiball)

TRex multiball is a bit of a gimme if you want it, but not a ton of points in it unless you're good at it. The rest of them are very much earned.

ebay.com link: itm

Took me about 3 months of nearly everyday play to hit 900 a few times. I feel you on the multiball, finally getting to the point where I can accomplish a bit in raptor and chaos. Playing off art will never work in multiball. Has to be about feel. Or watching where it comes off the flipper based on the ball speed + a very slight nudge if you are going for heli or control room. Also how much tap you give the flipper matters. For right ramp and right orbit you have to lay off a bit.

I'm having an issue with my Jurassic Park where the center ramp opto registers balls that roll through it slowly (so if I go in test I seem to get a 100% success rate pushing one through with my hand) but sometimes fails registering balls that move through it fast (so in gameplay probably 1 of 10 shots will just fly on by and won't give credit for hitting the ramp).

Anyone else have this issue and have a suggestion for what to do?

Yep the multiballs in this game are great. They aren't just a standard hit x shots to light a super. Scoring can be big in them but you really have to earn it, otherwise you can still end up with a decent amount out of a MB but not enough to where you can just play MBs and forget about the other modes for a big score. Raptor and Chaos MBs progress through some cool phases. T-Rex MB is really only very lucrative if you build the feed T-Rex amount and then hit the JP shots left to right to get a big Super. KOTI is a really cool one but very challenging to play.

I assume you mean the left (T-Rex) ramp? As the right ramp (with the spiral wireform) and the Heli ramp have micro-switches (not optos).

The entrance opto on the left ramp now has a modified left ramp protector that addressed fast balls not being detected - so if you have an early Pro or LE, this might help you (alternatively you can place a piece of tape over the low half of the opto hole). This reason is that the faster balls have a tendency to get more air on the ramp such that the ball doesn't break the lower part of the opto beam.

There is also an opto at the back of the left ramp (behind the backboard). The more recent machines off the factory floor people have reported that this back opto has been misaligned and needs the above tape technique or some adjusting

Yeah, the 2nd opto (reciever-side) on the t-rex ramp on my August-build Premium was defective out of the box. Not even misaligned, just plain defective. Would only give an intermittent signal. Stern shipped me a replacement and it worked perfect afterwards. Was a bit of an ass-pain to get to actually. Wasn't fun to have to do on a NIB.

You realize you linked a "sold" posting right? Someone got a good deal. And like I said, I had to pay $30 for mine, and I felt lucky at that price!

Yeah it's the one in the T-Rex ramp behind the game, I just took it off and reflowed the solder too it, agree it was a pain to get to, that didn't fix it unfortunately so sounds like I will have to get it replaced. I believe my game has the mentioned ramp protector on it already.

I'll try the tape technique though, so piece of black tape that covers the bottom half of the hole in the ramp?

In my case, the opto wouldn't register consistently even when I passed my finger in front of it, blocking the emitter completely. So I knew tape would do nothing for me.

Yep if a slower ball is registering then it sounds like the optos are working, so try the tape and see whether it improves the detection of the faster balls

Anybody know the part number of the machine screw for the flipper coil stop bracket? Or otherwise what thread it is? The 2 coil stop screws are bigger than the ones used on the coil support bracket on the other end of the coil but unfortunately the manual doesn't say what they are. Discovered the head had snapped for on one on the upper flipper mech and luckily I was still able to get the rest of it out (which had locktite on it)

JP Flipper Mech (resized).JPG

Don't know for sure, but here's what I'm seeing. I ordered a coil stop screw for my POTC last year and it was a #10-32 x 3/4", but it was a socket head bolt.

When I just searched Pinball Life's website for "coil stop" some of the first results on the page were for a couple types of screws that are #10-32. One of those screws says it's for fastening coil stops to Stern flipper assembly bases. Here it is:

https://www.pinballlife.com/10-32-x-38-serrated-slotted-hex-washer-thread-forming-screw.html

Also, when you look up the Stern coil stop on Marco Specialties' website and click on "Related Items" on that page it shows the same #10-32 screw as Pinball Life. Here it is:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/237-5985-00

There's also this forum on Pinside that seems to suggest #10-32 is the correct size:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/are-stern-s-flipper-screws-all-made-out-of-aluminum

Finally, a site called Action Pinball has this in a product description: "One set does one coil stop. Includes two #10-32 x 3/8 slotted hex washer head screws (non-swage)". Here's a link:

http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=HWRKIT3

So not 100% but putting these pieces together it seems like that #10-32 size is likely it, and you'd just need the correct length of that size. Hope this helps.

Awesome - thanks! I got thrown off in my searches by the fact that my coil stop screws have 1/2" of thread (while the bracket on the other end of the coil has 3/8" length screws - I'm guessing now that they are 8-32 x 3/8"). I wonder whether Stern have changed to 1/2" screws on the coil stops??

Based on the Pinside thread you found, it seems that these screws are zinc (not steel) and prone to their heads coming off ...

In case anyone hasn't seen them, the ABE_FLIPS videos are excellent.

"Perfect Aim" covers what you described but they are all worth watching.

It was not sold when I linked it....

Thanks for this! I will check it out.

Just got my premium from another pinsider, awesome game!

After repairing the raptor toy mechanism, I noticed that the circuit board that's powering the raptor pit right target
is very visible when the led is flashing. It seems to reflecting off the plastic "roof" of the pen.
Is this normal? It's a bit immersion breaking to see a pcb. I could swear it wasn't like this before.

bright-pcb (resized).jpg

There is something different on mine. It should be a stand-up target hardware looking part, with a decal applied. Perhaps your hardware part was replaced and the decal was not? Could be as simple as applying the decal.

Just joined the club with a nice loaded pro! Super excited to dive into this one. Had to adjust the raptor target like the indexed post suggested since I was getting ghost hits. I think I’ll also have to make the jeep adjustment because mine gets stuck occasionally upward during movement. Also if anybody knows the type of screw used on the top of the raptor tower that would be great, can’t find it in the manual. Seems the modded raptor tower is just sorta resting there, unsecured. Gotta treat this game right since I know I’ll have it for a long time!! )

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I just joined this club last weekend with a new in box premium. I am trying to find a helicopter to mod but no luck and dakotamike sold his this morning If anyone has one or leads please let me know.

Isn't the helicopter spinning blades included?

It is and I am talking about the blue Matchbox helicopter people are modding and put under the spinning blades.

Helicopter is sold, but Jada Jeep is still available.

Hello everyone,
A new small illuminated mod for your Jurassic Park of Stern 2019. The Dilophosaurus. The famous scene where Nedry the computer scientist is eaten by this little dinosaur.
It was missing!
It is a mod connected to the GI (General Illumination). The poison thrown by the dino is thus enhanced.
For the purchase it's here: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1338-pino-pinball-mods-shop/05504-dilophosaurus

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The LE & Prem has spinning blades but it used the same helicopter plastic as the pro.

Here are pics of the original Pro and Prem helicopter and then a modded Prem with the matchbox heli included

JP Pro Heli (resized).JPGJP Prem and LE Heli (resized).JPG
JP Prem and LE Modded Heli (resized).JPG