No code update is worth not having the ultimate mod on this machine. I love it. Pics and names should not be used though.

Has anybody replaced the slingshot/lane guide plastics? If so, what with? I'm not a fan of the dinos there, especially since they block the view of the inlanes. Just removing their heads is no option since their arms remain on the lane guide plastics. If a mod maker were to create an alternative, I'd definitely be interested.

Have the best of both, and more. Just get a cheap 4 channel mixer and run up to 4 pins into the sub. If you do this, you would need to go the low-level route (the high-level to low-level adapter) for each pin.

If you go w/the Pinovator's adapter - just get two (one for each pin) since the woofer already has two inputs. Keep in mind there's only one volume control on the sub, so you would have to adjust the each game individually. If you did the mixer option - each input has its own volume adjustment.

The adapter I mentioned is generic - works on any pin's woofer. Pinovators is more specific to the Spike Spike 2 system. (Don't want to make sound like I'm steering you away from Pinovators, was just mentioning the difference.). Not sure what system MET runs (i.e. SAM or SPIKE).

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What's the consensus on buying the premium over the pro?

I made some 3D printed ones, but they block the lane just like the plastic ones, maybe even more.

Here's an early version, getting ready to repaint.

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Consensus among Premium Owners: "With all the extra features, nothing less than the premium version is worth owning and well worth the extra price."

Consensus among Pro Owners: "None of that extra crap that comes on the premium is worth it. You get nearly the same experience on the pro for far less."

Consensus among LE Owners: "All those Pro & Premium owners with their petty arguments over which is better are plebs . . . let them eat cake."

Full disclosure: I'm a Premium owner.

As Mr_Tantrum indicated it's down to what people prefer

You need to decide on:
- which artwork package do you prefer
- do you think the animated T-Rex is a must have
- there are differences in the raptor pen b/n the 2 models and how they work. Which one do you prefer
- is the extra $$ worth it and can you afford it
- depending upon whether you rotate your machines, does one model hold a better resale value

I personally think the Prem/LE raptor pen creating a captive ball or capturing a raptor during Tri-ball is better than the Pro, the animatronics of T-Rex is very cool .. kids (& adults) love it, and the Prem art package is kick arse. But hey that's just me

Manny65 took the words right out of my mouth.

One of my favorite posts ever, probably because it is so true.

<1blockquote cite="#6466840">Consensus among Premium Owners: "With all the extra features, nothing less than the premium version is worth owning and well worth the extra price."
Consensus among Pro Owners: "None of that extra crap that comes on the premium is worth it. You get nearly the same experience on the pro for far less."
Consensus among LE Owners: "All those Pro & Premium owners with their petty arguments over which is better are plebs . . . let them eat cake."
Full disclosure: I'm a Premium owner.
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Any chance a jeep register issue is a code issue? Mine wouldn’t register to the right last night, went in today to fix and it works 100%. I must be missing something, but everything looks fine. Anyone have a head scratcher like this?

I imagine the premium's mechs will cause issues in the long run. My raptor gate doesn't come down exactly flush, but luckily I haven't had any TRex Issues.

Just had like a 4 smart missle streak in a game to get me 46 rescues and a 720k visitor center bonus. 2.6 bil total. (Previous GC was 1.6 bil) Don't think I'll be topping that anytime soon.

Great news! Glad to help out.

the raptor cage is the real +

That's a simple adjustment (similar to adjusting an up-post to be flush) - a bolt at the bottom of the mech sets the stop height. Best to fix this rather than play at it is, as you run the risk of chipping the PF.

Oh yes, great pick up!

palmab03 - if that gate is misaligned and not sitting square in the PF hole it can get caught up on the PF (I actually had this on my LE) then loosen the mech bracket screws under the PF to see if it can be re-positioned correctly but most likely you'll need to slot the bracket holes to allow the mech to sit square in the hole.

Plus reliability issues. I had a buddy with a Premium not be able to play for a while because his T-rex head broke in the down position after just a hundred plays. Stern support didn't really help him out. Any premium will be down way more than the pro model in the long run. Premiums and LEs are starting to make operators hesistant on reliability.

I also like the flow of the pro better anyways, much less stop and go

Weigh not only the additions, but the mantainance they may bring with... very important!

Sorry for the late answer but couldn’t post in a „hot thread“. I made two pictures of the hole . Seems like the hole is wider at the top than at the buttom so the post tightens only if it’s reaching the lower hole part .

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When JP was originally released the Pro would raise the left inlane up-post when starting the T-Rex events, stopping the flow - is this still the case? Even with overriding watching the video clip, the post wouldn't drop before the ball got to it. But certainly the Pro does feel different to play.

Definitely having additional mechs does increase the chance of a failure occuring, not that I have ever had any failures (touch wood) on my LE .. oh other than the coil stops. And T-Rex can have alignment and ball catching issues on some machines, so good points to raise

make sure the jeep is fully swinging all the way around. I had an issue where it would not fully complete the turn, and stop maybe 1/4" before it's the captive ball. not sure if you're just testing the opto by moving it by hand. if so, make sure a ball hit is getting a complete spin. i wound up having to disassemble the entire mech and clean the through-post.

Just played King of the Island Multiball again. Is it just me or is that a really difficult mode to pull off? I've never been able to make it through more than three repeated shot patterns before draining back to single ball play and ending the mode. Very cool mode and I like the rules for it because it's a challenge, but dang it's a tough one for me to get very far in.

Yep don't play KOTI that often and JP can be challenging enough to hit your shots with a single ball, let alone do it in multiball ... but hey that is the challenge and what keeps us coming back for more, ... and hopefully makes us better players

For an operator yes, for a home collection I still think it's worth the extra money for the fun stuff. I wouldn't buy a stripped down toy to avoid maintenance.
Most times, those toys add to the fun factor. That T rex may not be necessary, but it sure is cool when it thrashes around with the ball and the shaker is going nuts

I'm Loving my Premium so far, build date AUG 3. Sadly the shaker motor is on back order right now, but I bet the game goes up a few more notches with it. I'm happy I got it early with a deposit made on July 17, I was told Nov. My Distributer emailed me saying my machine arrived early and they were shocked too. Anyways is there a setting to turn on the shaker when I get it? I couldn't find it, but havent fooled with the new Spike 2 system until now. I had to watch a youtube video on trying to figure out the lockdown bar alone.

I am trying to get better at the game. Is there a strategy for getting further along in the Paddocks. I have a hard time getting past 3 or so. Also is there a strategy for getting scores higher than 500K. I seem to get stuck around there.

Definitely!!! After two years I’m still hooked on this machine.

Have you played the challenge mode much? Playing that is good practice for making all the shots.

Also, in regular game play, until recently I’d always pretty much focused on paddocks. But recently I started focusing on starting T-Rex modes. There can be a lot of points in those modes, and I’ve found that in the course of doing the T-Rex modes I end up playing a lot of paddocks at the same time without really even focusing on them. Might be something different to try.

I will try playing that more and see if it helps. I have gotten pretty good at most of the shots with the "c" maybe giving me the most trouble now. I get it close but it always seems to just miss. The best way for me to hit it is usually a helicopter to control room combo. I seem to lose a lot from the slings and not very good at saving outline drains.

Yep, this game definitely forced me to learn how to nudge to survive those slings and outlanes more!!! If you’re able to get the C Lane pretty consistently on a moving shot but not as reliably from a cradle you might want to try lowering the right flipper power a bit. Might be worth trying, and you can always set it back to where it was if you end up not liking the lower power setting.

It's a tough game for one. For paddocks, stick to the easier ones on either far left or right. You don't have to finish them so just start one and focus on something.

Can anyone help with the post problem? It’s the only part left before mounting the apron

I can't help right now, but maybe you could take a picture of the post below the PF so everyone can see how much it protrudes?

My Pro does have the washer installed.

The post is screwed in from above with a wood screw like buttom of the post . But thanks for the answer

Can you show a picture of the bottom of the post (the part that goes into the playfield)? If it's like a wood screw that is held by the screw part digging into the wood (with no nut holding it in place on the other side), then you're issue might just be that the hole got worn out when you removed it so now the screw on the post isn't biting into the playfield wood to hold it in place.

If that is the case, then filling the hole with wood by using toothpicks and glue could help create a new area of wood for the screw to dig into. Would need to see the bottom side of the post to see if that might be the case though.

EaglePin is right on the money with the toothpicks and glue fix.

I try to imagine how to do it with toothpicks and glue but don’t really know . Or maybe try some wood filler ?

Wood filler not as strong as wood
Do the tooth pick thing works great!

How to do it ? Really appreciate the help

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stripped-screw-hole-repair-one-way-to-do-it

OK, that explains a lot. I was (and likely others) thought it went thru the PF and was secured w/a nut.

As others mentioned, toothpick is an easy fix.

The post linked by Only_Pinball is a good reference. Just get some toothpicks (or bamboo skewers, or a wood dowel... any wood that can be glued tight into the hole to fill it), and break them into small pieces. You don't need the tops of the toothpicks to be exactly even with the surface of the playfield. The screw just needs enough new wood in the hole to grab onto, and the washer will cover the top of the area anyway so you won't see it. If the toothpicks/skewers extend lower than the bottom of the playfield it also doesn't matter because you won't see it and you can clip it off and sand it.

You'll fill the hole with many toothpicks/skewers (each one with glue on it) and the screw will go into them when they're dry. Put glue on the toothpicks so they stick to each other and also to the sides of the hole and insert them tight into the hole (again, the tops can be lower than the surface of the playfield) and let it dry for awhile. When it's done the screw should be able to dig into the new wood.

If you search Pinside for "toothpicks" you'll find a lot more examples of it being discussed and some more pictures of how it works.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/search?s=1&q=toothpicks&include_basement=0#results

Edit: Weird thing is, your picture below sort of indicates it should be a threaded post w/a nut since is goes all the way thru. If I get a sec, I may lift my PF and check mine. With a wood screw, you wouldn't think they would drill all the way thru the PF, or if they did, it would be undersized.

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Nice catch. That is strange.

I looked on mine. It doesn't seem to go through the playfield on mine.

Since I'm home, I lifted my PF and took a quick picture. The red circle is the metal on the left side of the shooter lane. That nut secures it. The blue area is where your post would be. There might be a hole under the plastic support that I don't see. I guess the plastic support could use the same hole, but not sure if that is the case, plus the screw looks a little small for that size of hole.

I guess in the end, don't overthink it too much. Stick a toothpick or two in there and you'll be fine. It would be interesting to see the backside of your PF tho.

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My SnipIt seems to agree w/the manual too.

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Update: Found the post at Marcos. Part # 530-5332-01

Anyone know the part number for the post in front of the upper flipper? Mine broke.

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I don’t know what was up, lifted the hood and everthing moved freely. Fired up a game the next day and it works fine. I didn’t do a thing. Oh well.

I'm not sure of the part number, but I think it's a "bumper post stud" on the Marco website. Not sure which one though. When mine broke I contacted my distributor and Stern sent a replacement.

Didn't they change/update the post at some point? The way it attaches to the PF? I recall working on my buddies post - but it's been too long. Way back when they initially had PF issues.