Does anyone know if the new JP's are coming with the newer node boards like GOTG? I ask for I would assume that the Ultimate Code would no longer be abled to be installed on them just as the did with Pinball Browser and Cleland code for GOTG in their V1.08.

Maybe Sterns shrewd way of counteracting people for making modifications to the code on their own, who knows.

Oh damn, don't scare me. I would be super bummed if that was the case. I've got a JP Premium incoming soon (I hope). JP is a newer game to begin with and so far I haven't heard of a problem...

There hasn't been new code for JP like there is for GOTG (manly to support the node boards). In addition, the node board code is a later ver on the current JP code vs the new GOTG code.

This is something they just started doing on the new runs of GOTG, go read the thread and see. If this is the case, I hope we can find folks who can repair node boards as if one fails on us and we currently have the ultimate code we might have no choice but to resort back to stock code. I know I might be putting the cart before the horse here but just thinking outside the box for moment and trying to figure their angle here, it may be something or all just a bunch of nothing.

My friend gave this subwoofer to me.Would this work for my Jurassic park,when I get it?

IMG_20210815_221754454 (resized).jpg

yep just run the wire and match the polarity, red to red & black to black.

I usually add one of these to my pins to be on the safe side. Converts a high level balanced output (i.e. the cabinet woofer) to the low level, single-ended input the active sub wants. And provides ground isolation.

I actually have these (or similar versions) in each pin and run the outputs to a cheapie mixer, with the mixer output going to two subs
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Howdy gents. I got the right ramp wire form all dialed in beautifully. Thank you for the guidance. One quick question. Does anyone have any guidance on dialing in the center spinner shot? It really clunks around the right orbit on mine. So much so that it misses the upper flipper when it comes out.

Typically I find that when I shoot the spinner from the left flipper it'll end up dropping into the pops and consequently light "Lite escape"; while from the right flipper it'll traverse around the orbit to the upper flipper. Just check that the up-post in the orbit is flush with the PF, as this could be causing your issue

Thanks for the advice! I checked the up post and it feels flush against the PF. For me it's when I use the right flipper and the ball has some speed to it. Instead of going around the orbit smoothly it bounces back and forth against the sides and instead of passing by the upper flipper it comes out of the orbit at an angle towards the center of the PF. Not sure what's causing it to bounce around so much in the orbit lane.

Try taking a slo-mo video of it, to see what's happening. Typically shot from the right flipper the ball will hit the left ball guide through the spinner and be smoothly transitioned into the orbit - just wondering where your's starts to ricochet around

Can anyone offer any suggestions?

My upper flipper is starting to intermittently fail? I've reflowed the coil connectors along with the switch. The lower flippers are perfect. It'll fire sometimes, half fire other times, but mostly not at all.

Hmm, might be a node-board problem.

Check the switch gap on your right flipper button. Make sure it’s making a full connection to your upper flipper switch. If the gap is to big it could make your flipper intermittent.

Switch gap was double checked when I reflowed the lugs. There’s a good contact between them.

Node board!?? Crap, I hope not. Would that be intermittent though?

Is there an EOS switch on Spike II games? I haven't really had the need to examine flipper parts yet *knockonwood*

There is yep

And that is making good contact as well? Checking with a DMM?

it does yep. I don’t think it’s the EOS switch (working or not) at play here. Sometimes the flipper works, sometimes it doesn’t, sometimes it half flips. Feels like it’s more a switch problem… which is fully operational.

Can anyone advise what a faulty node board would bring? Never had a problem with one.

Did you check your coil stops? Do your flipper plungers move freely between the coil sleeve?

I don’t think node boards do anything to your flippers. Intermittent sometimes means loose wire. I’d check your coil lugs

Have you checked or replaced the coil stops yet? Coil stops were prone to early failure when JP first started shipping in 2019 and may still be problematic. I highly recommend swapping out all of the coil stops on Stern tables. Try checking continuity on both the flipper and EOS leaf switches to be sure, although I suspect the coil stop "button" is broken off and floating around in the coil sleeve. If so, also replace the coil sleeve for that flipper if the inside of the sleeve is damaged.

It's certainly possible if there is a weak or failing connection, although I would expect the CPU to pick up intermittent flipper failures. You can try swapping the node8 and node9 boards (Requires changing jumper settings after swapping connections). I really suspect the coil stop, though, and highly recommend checking that first since it's a common known issue and a much easier test/solution.

Yes, there is an EOS switch. Stern uses single wound flipper coils and rapidly pulses power instead of an alternate lower power hold coil. There is some debate on the functionality of the EOS switch on SPIKE2. For Sega/Stern Whitestar, if a ball impact causes the flipper to drop and close the EOS switch, the board will send a full longer pulse to push the flipper back out which should re-open the EOS switch, and go back to pulsing the coil power to hold the flipper up. Presumable nothing changed for SPIKE/SPIKE2, although it isn't confirmed. For JP/SPIKE2, the EOS switch either does little to nothing except signal the CPU, or the EOS switch handles rebounds the same way it did in the Whitestar era.

I have owned two JPs now and both needed some tweaking on the left guide rail of the spinner shot to make it smooth. If memory serves there isn't much if any adjustment in the mounting points, but there is enough metal past the mounting points to bend fairly easily. Remember small changes can make a huge difference. You may have to experiment a little to see what direction yours wants. My old machine actually needed to be bent out (left) slightly, which was counter-intuitive to making the ball transition to the back rail smoothly, but for whatever reason it worked perfectly. My new machine needed to be bent in (right) a bit. It may take a few tries, but you should be able to get it pretty smooth. That said, this is one of those shots that will never be 100% smooth, and will sometimes bounce around a bit on the way through. It's just too sharp of a transition to be perfect every time with every shot angle.

I'll get out to my JP today and confirm the coil stop. Would a faulty coil stop stop it from flipping at all though?

If it’s a bad enough failure, I’d think so

This is huge! Thank you. So did you take out the guide rail completely before bending it or did you leave it in place. I don't have much experience with this and I don't want to screw anything up. I will take any guide rail bending best practices you have.

Thanks again!

Have you gone into switch test mode and confirmed the upper flipper switch is being seen/recognised consistently?

Took off the coil stop, looks brand new. All switches appear good. I’m at a loss.

Thanks for that video, man, that stinks. Definitely looks like perfect response from the lower flipper, just that upper right flipper. I read back through your comments, and it looks like you reflowed the wires at the coil, have you attempted to replace the coil itself? Uncommon as it is, but there very well maybe a break somewhere there inside the coil.
I will also take a look at my leaf switches later today at the right flipper button inside the cabinet and try and take a picture. I'm sure you have enured that the leaf switches are appropriately separated, and not by too much. Out of curiosity, with the playfield up, if you just trigger the leaf switch inside the cabinet by the flipper button for the upper flipper, is it still the same behavior?
I think if you trigger that leaf switch inside the cabinet and you have intermittent response, like what your experiencing, and knowing that you have already reflowed the wires, but if you also change out for a new coil and still have the same response, then after ensuring that all molex connections are firmly secured to the boards, I would think it is a board problem, and at that point would think that you could send a service note to Stern.
So sorry you are having this problem.

No problem. I bent mine in place. Taking it out would be easiest, but a lot more work pulling it in and out to check it. You will need to take the plastic off, but then should be able to get a needle nose pliers on it. Wrap the pliers jaws in electrical tape or put a rag or something around it if you are afraid of marring the rail up a bit. Then just be careful. Don't scrape the playfield! It might help to loosen the nut under the playfield that holds the closest attachment point. That will let the whole thing "rotate" a bit more. Just remember to tighten it back up. A tiny bit can make a big difference. Make sure the gate doesn't get hung up or difficult to move. Do not bend too far or the ball will get stuck between the rails (ask how I found that out, LOL!). And if going the way you think you need to go doesn't help, do not be afraid to try the opposite way. Like I said, sometimes it's counter-intuitive. Since the ball will never perfectly "merge" into that lane, you are looking for the angle that causes the least amount of bouncing around. Ideally one smack into the back wall and then smoothly around is what you want. My first machine I actually had to angle it towards the wall a hair to get that bounce right, which seemed wrong, but smoothed the shot out a ton.

Best of luck, you can do it! Like everything with pinball, it sounds daunting at first, but it really isn't hard once you dig in.

That absolutely did the trick! Thanks so much for giving me the confidence to adjust it myself. It's amazing how that tiny of an adjustment makes a huge difference on the way the ball behaves.

Thanks so much!

AWESOME! Congrats!

I've seen similar problems when there are metal shavings between the coilsleeve and the plunger.
Try to clean these and also check that the coilsleeve passes through the coil support bracket.

Anyone ever have the newton ball fall off its post? Is there a way to reassemble it back on or is it broken?

Thanks

It mounts through the playfield. If the ball itself is detached from the post, then you'll have to replace it. Got any pics?

We just had a similiar discussion topic on Page 226. The post thread side was broken, but same fix applies... My comment:

"The GREAT news for you is once they send you the ball with post, it's a 2 minute fix, and nothing else has to be touched. It's part number 515-2037-00 and listed as "BALL, STUDDED, TRUCK SPINNER" and you'll need an 8-32 locknut too which is their part 240-5102-00"

Topper available at Marco for anyone interested...

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/502-7111-00

Yeah I think Stern just released a bunch of them I had one on pre-order from coin taker last month and I just got the shipment notification today

I would start here:

after ensuring that all molex connections are firmly secured to the boards. Your main issue is electrical, not mechanical.

Geez, hard to believe I'm saying it's a good deal at that price and not $2K...

I’m not buying it

Metal shavings from where do you think?

Usually from the coilstops, if that's the problem you should be able to knock down the flipperbat down when the button is held.

Ummmm is the "extra mode" that comes with the $600 topper seriously just goat sounds?

By the 'tone' of your question it doesn't matter what the answer is. You don't want the topper and are trying to justify your opinion. Nothing to see here, move along..

If you are seriously asking then Goat Mania is a switch hit mode(ramps, spinner, pops, slings - like amber modes) but is flip limited instead of time limited. Yes it makes a goat sound when you flip. My top GM score is about 425M. Not insignificant scoring.

In home use it's actually something my GF aims for. It makes her hit that start button for "just one more game".

I think the mode is cool. While I get toppers for all my machines, I think that linking the mode to the topper is a DB move on Stern's part.

Not OP, but curious - is it a mode built into the normal gameplay or just a stand alone mode you start as an individual game separate from the normal game? If it's the former, how to you initiate the mode during gameplay?

You might be able to fix that with some good epoxy. Did it look like it was threaded in? I'll be honest, I haven't had to take mine off or inspect it for any reason. If you can take to post out from the top of the playfield, I would say epoxy the ball back on. If for whatever reason you have to pull the post through the bottom side of the playfield (having to take the ball off to do so), then I would see if Stern would be able to send you a replacement (which they likely will).