Thank you kind sir. I will give that a try. Looks like an easy fix.

I just joined club with NIB premium. Went to order the stern Jurassic park armor rails and they are out of stock everywhere. Does stern ever rerun these types of items?

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Yes and I'm pretty sure I saw them for pre order somewhere.

https://nitropinball.com/collections/stern-shop/products/jurassic-park-side-armor#

You do realize that an LE is a premium with a $3000 powdercoat job and a mirrored backglass? Haha. I’ll happily upgrade to some sweet $250 armor protectors and a $250 powdercoat!

Got the amber shooter rod in today. Doesn’t come with any new screws and the og screws that came with the pin very much do not align on threads, or they didn’t thread all the way down, or both.

Chewed right through the threads on one hole and here’s a side by side of how far they naturally screw down till:
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They don’t come close to getting tight, another 1/8+ to go.

I strongly suggest you use a tap and cut those threads before you try to install. Otherwise You won’t be able to get them tight enough in the limited space near the cabinet wall. This must have been a production change because my amber shooter came (a few months ago) from Stern already threaded.

Yea, this has been covered before. As mentioned you can use a tap and die set to cut the threads in or just do what I did and muscle the screw in further to cut the threads in with the screw.

They’ve already been tapped though, can you re-tap existing threads? Would seem odd. Anywho I just added an extra washer to close the gap. Now back to the damn shooter lane wobble-fail with Stern; was hoping I’d get lucky with new rod, of course not. 0 washers, 1 washer, 2 washer under left of shooter lane ramp, doesn’t matter. Both manual and auto plunge has ball ricochete off both sides of lane, even when it succeeds. There seems to be a deeper production issue here. I’ve aligned plunger and bent forks into place so many times; I swear both are on the money now. I’m not even so sure the wood grove align with metal grove… going to pull this pic into photoshop tomorrow and see.

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It got me thinking, and ya, if I run my finger down the wood grove, it naturally comes out going pretty hard left, before it ever touches metal ramp. Which is why the washer fix kind of works (but doesn’t for me, at least completely).

This is mine, shifted to the left compared to yours.

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The forks on mine are also installed towards the left a bit. Funny how the machines are all different…

Mine too

You do realize that you’re full of it??

If you’re not into LE’s that’s fine but no need to bullshit.

The difference in price is about 1200-1400$

With the LE you get:
Stern shaker
HD glass
Side armor
Mirrored backglass
Powdercoat
Upgraded speakers
Inside art blades

Getting those extras for a premium will cost you probably more than just buying the LE.

Usually includes HD Glass, shaker and other items beside the powdercoat and backglass. Not to mention LE usually includes a resale value greater than Premium + $1200, so the value argument can be looked at in a number of ways.

Aren't we at $7600/prem and $9500/LE averages these days? The last LE I bought was an SWLE at $8500 but I had heard it went up from there when I almost bought an AIQLE.

Stern/PBL Shaker - $100
HD glass - I put PDI in at $300
Exterior Side armor - $60 - $75 for extended rails
Interior Side Art - $75 - $100
Powder coat $250 - $300 for a nice 2 stage "illusion" color (sometimes better than stock LE color)
Mirrored backglass, plaque, autograph - LE feature only

Most of my games are premiums so I know the math well as I do these upgrades with all my premiums and it usually runs about $800. Although I have had LE's (and currently have a SWLE). The main reason I mostly go the premium route is that I hate all the drama upon the initial release with trying to secure an LE as well as making me commit before I ever see it play. If it also saves me a little money and gives me some choice in how I customize it then so be it.

If it was like mine and most of the recent castings, the housing holes are tapered and untapped. The screw initially goes in fairly easily. Then once you get to about half way it starts to get much tighter as the taper tightens. That's where you can either just muscle it in there to use the screw to finish cutting threads in the softer metal or use a tap. And yes, you can use a tap on existing threads. It's not about "re-tapping", you insert the tap into the existing thread groves not at a different angle/orientation/thread pitch/etc.. I do that all the time to clean threads up whether they just need to be freshened up or to fix a cross thread issue.

For your shooter rod placement issue, did you use the painters tape trick to ensure that new plate was placed in the exact same location that original was? I leveraged that method and my shots were perfect once installed.

Wasn't talking to you (look at who I quoted)! The person I was replying too stated the diff in price was 3000$ and it was only for a powdercoat and backglass. You and I were both saying the same thing but I covered the things you get with the LE into more detail, not just the price difference.

Ahh already up $200 from the JP prem I just bought. I think depending on the craze for the tittle, distros can easily ask for and get $9500 or whatever MSRP happens to get raised to. Seems like $1400-$1700 is about the prem/LE difference range which thinking back to the SWLE I bought, seems to be expanding from the $1200 it used to be ($7300 vs $8500).

All of this has been overcome by events in this new era where LEs go to the highest bidder. If I wanted a Mandolorian LE I would have paid at least $12K from the distributor. That basically makes me a premium buyer from now on. Not a huge deal; I put a shaker, side rails, topper and other items on my JP premium and plan on getting HD glass at some point.

Edit: Prior to Mando, the difference from Premium to LE was closer to $1400 than $1200...

My suspicions as to the cause of the ricochet that causes the ball to fail making the plunge scoop shot (and it ricochets even when it makes it successfully, just less ricochet) may be true... that the wood divot-guide isn't straight or aligned with the metal fork. I brought some pics into photoshop and used high magnification to ensure I got the ends of the line perfectly in the middle on the roll-over opening and the top of the fork (it may not appear to be so when zoomed out, as there is less pixels to view), and the wood divot-guide is definitely going to the left of the line.

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Geesh guys. Let’s calm down. Let me say where I was coming from. I have an AIQ LE and has a Star Trek LE. I prefer LEs.

Obviously… This is a two year old title and there is not a $1200 difference between the going prices at this point in time. Premiums are going for $7600 and LEs are going for $11-13k.

I was reacting to someone saying “ouch” to $250 rails and I was exaggerating the feature difference.

Not to mention…Stern LEs are going to be hitting a 10k price point off the line in less than a month.

Oh wow, that's quite the difference, and would actually likely help the situation I'm seeing where the end of the wood divot-guide does not align with the forks. Do you guys not experience the side-to-side ricochet problem at all, that causes the scoop plunge to fail?

I do not at all. Also have green plunger spring. Ah I feel for ya man, hope you work it out.

Not sure if this will help. I bought a very low play Metallica (250),that was shooting a little to the left. I loosened the shooter rod assembly,and placed a 1/16" shim on the left side, inside the cabinet. It worked pretty good,and the ball no longer shoots to the left.

New JP pro owner here. My first NIB.

The newton ball fell off today. Anyone else have this happen? Can it be reattached somehow?

Also what do you use to routinely clean the playfield and pinballs?

Thanks

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Ok, folks are going to be hating on me, but my first JP-Prem needed all the fixes mentioned throughout this thread to hit the half-pipe and tower ramps consistently. My second JP-Prem didn't need anything! I get 99.9% off the shooter in manual and auto, and never fail the tower if I make a good shot.... AND I have not done anything to either area. No washer adding or spring-swaps, nor screw gringing. Nothing but factory. Am I jinx'd now?

Don't hate me! 8-)

Ditto on my first and only. No problems other than I suck at playing it LOL

Same here!

Hi guys!
I just received my Premium! Amazing machine!
I just played a credit to see if everything was ok, and now im going to make some settings.
Any suggestions (for the newbie here) besides not using coins and number of balls!?

Greetings!

You shouldn't have said that out loud!!

Hi guys! On my second day with the machine this happens!
Has it ever happened that the jeep's steering ball comes off someone's machine? any suggestions on how to fix this?

Greetings!

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The ball shaft should pass through the jeeps posts the on the other side that shaft should have had a threaded area and nut on it. Did you find loose parts in the cabinet?

I didn't find anything. I'll look better. Thank you for your help!

I found! Look where it was... but I believe the piece broke! I'm going to ask for the replacement of the Spinner truck. Thank you!
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Wow I've not seen that before!!

Even with it fully tight, mine moves around just a little. I suspect someone tried to tighten it down too hard and snapped off the hardware. When you get the new hardware, tighten it down until the nut is tight and don't crank on it any further.

Haha, ya, did that a month ago, helped but definitely did not solve the problem. Cheers!

Ya-ya fine, we can trade

The GREAT news for you is once they send you the ball with post, it's a 2 minute fix, and nothing else has to be touched. It's part number 515-2037-00 and listed as "BALL, STUDDED, TRUCK SPINNER" and you'll need an 8-32 locknut too which is their part 240-5102-00

Mezelmods tower is well done.

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