(Topic ID: 248582)

Jurassic Park (Stern 2019) Owners Club. Welcome! To Jurassic park.....

By Scribbles

2 years ago


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#11001 12 days ago

Here’s with two washers in; different movement, same effect. One washer is definitely better, but still not guaranteed to deliver like it should.

https://streamable.com/ik8mng

#11002 12 days ago

So I have a preorder on a JP Premium and I've been told that Stern is going to be starting their run on JP machines starting on 7/26. So that means I will be getting my machine in soon!

Do you guys have any suggestions for 'necessary' mods? Or suggestions for tuning new JP machines out of the box?

#11003 11 days ago
Quoted from Stormfront:

So I have a preorder on a JP Premium and I've been told that Stern is going to be starting their run on JP machines starting on 7/26. So that means I will be getting my machine in soon!
Do you guys have any suggestions for 'necessary' mods? Or suggestions for tuning new JP machines out of the box?

My favorite mods so far, in order, is the upgraded raptor pen, the real and interactive headlight jeep in upper right corner and caution tape all over (I know some say this wasn’t in movies, but it certainly was in promotional marketing, and for all I know, in the movies too). I’m like pretty damn sure it was fluttering in the wind in the og trex scene. I still have Amber knob on order; sure I’ll love that too.

But the ultimate mod? Tops all others? The real movie asset videos. Most love, very few don’t like, I love.

Mods I didn’t like and didn’t install, though I bought? The replacement signs that look like stone. I find there are mods for every pin that I order and then don’t install.

#11004 11 days ago
Quoted from chickenscratch:

Here’s with two washers in; different movement, same effect. One washer is definitely better, but still not guaranteed to deliver like it should.
https://streamable.com/ik8mng

Usually when it’s inconsistent, the fork auto plunge isn’t sitting like it should. It’s wobbly, making it work sometimes. In my experience, you need to replace the 2 bushings. It helps stabilize it. Maybe your bushing is falling out. They only cost .50 cents a piece. You can also check that your coil is pulling it down straight. There are many things that could be giving you trouble.
I don’t have the game in front of me, but I thought you could adjust the habit trail left and right by loosening the nut on the slingshot. Something else to check.
Sounds like you’ve tried to lower the auto plunger power with no help. Have you fixed the manual plunger?

#11005 11 days ago
Quoted from chickenscratch:

What’s tough is it’s all so inconsistent. After the one washer trick, auto plunger worked 10/10. Decided to try one more time, fail, one more time, fail, another fail, then success. How can there be this much non-distributed variance? I just don’t get it.
Shit thing is dealing with both manual and auto plunge issues. Tried to readjust shooter rod again and now I’m back to worse on the manual plunger. Thing is, I’m not really changing anything cause there’s nothing to charge. There’s two pre-drilled holes for red screws for back plate, that has to go back in the same way every time and is what adjusts alignment for manual plunger. Just check the picture and look how non-center it is; without drilling new holes, there’s just no way to get this centered.
I almost give up (outside of doing new holes, and there’s only enough wood/space for one shot at this).
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Is that where your manual plunger sits at rest or are you pushing it forward to show where it makes contact with the ball? At rest, the tip of my manual plunger is well behind the auto-plunger forks, with the ball resting evenly against both forks.

#11006 11 days ago

For anyone interested in a new goat mod for JP here's a new thread I just created.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-goat-mod#post-6397976

#11007 11 days ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

Usually when it’s inconsistent, the fork auto plunge isn’t sitting like it should. It’s wobbly, making it work sometimes. In my experience, you need to replace the 2 bushings. It helps stabilize it. Maybe your bushing is falling out. They only cost .50 cents a piece. You can also check that your coil is pulling it down straight. There are many things that could be giving you trouble.
I don’t have the game in front of me, but I thought you could adjust the habit trail left and right by loosening the nut on the slingshot. Something else to check.
Sounds like you’ve tried to lower the auto plunger power with no help. Have you fixed the manual plunger?

Ya I lowered by 5,3,1 increments down 20 and up 20 from og; nothing solved the issue. The fork of the auto plunge looks correct on the ball each time, from what I can tell. I’ll check the habit trail adjustment.

Quoted from Manny65:

Is that where your manual plunger sits at rest or are you pushing it forward to show where it makes contact with the ball? At rest, the tip of my manual plunger is well behind the auto-plunger forks, with the ball resting evenly against both forks.

I was pushing it forward to exemplify where it made contact. Lastly I ended up tightening only one plate/rod screw all the way to canter it more to center; works 90% of the time now… just would like 100% so I’m not anticipating a fail every plunge, as it throws me off. Think I may just need to drill new holes for the red plate screws.

#11008 11 days ago
Quoted from chickenscratch:

Think I may just need to drill new holes for the red plate screws.

You should be able to remove the RED plate screws altogether until you get this issue nailed down. The other three screws will hold the plate in place just fine by tension alone. And keep in mind that if you really are going to drill new holes in the cabinet for the RED screws, you'll likely need to fill the existing ones with a toothpick or small dowel and glue first. (This will allow a new hole to be drilled anywhere it needs to be)

#11009 11 days ago
Quoted from Stormfront:

So I have a preorder on a JP Premium and I've been told that Stern is going to be starting their run on JP machines starting on 7/26. So that means I will be getting my machine in soon!
Do you guys have any suggestions for 'necessary' mods? Or suggestions for tuning new JP machines out of the box?

The plastic palm trees really add to the playfield...

I just got my prem from the last run....thought that was it...that was May....

#11010 11 days ago
Quoted from Stormfront:

So I have a preorder on a JP Premium and I've been told that Stern is going to be starting their run on JP machines starting on 7/26. So that means I will be getting my machine in soon!
Do you guys have any suggestions for 'necessary' mods? Or suggestions for tuning new JP machines out of the box?

The SHAKER, some type of SHOOTER LANE PROTECTOR and TIMLAH's A/V code update are the closest to "necessary" you'll find. The rest is a matter of taste. I consider the Mezel Raptor Pit to be well worth it, along with the WizBlade 'blue' side art. I would also consider the PBL fluorescent plastic protector set to add colorful pop to the lower part of the playfield. And if money is no object, add Stern's Amber shooter and PBL's lighted flipper buttons which match the amber shooter perfectly (order the translucent yellow buttons).

Obviously there are a ton of other mods (trees, goats, signs, etc) to choose from. Be careful not to go overboard!

#11011 11 days ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

The SHAKER, some type of SHOOTER LANE PROTECTOR and TIMLAH's A/V code update are the closest to "necessary" you'll find. The rest is a matter of taste. I consider the Mezel Raptor Pit to be well worth it, along with the WizBlade 'blue' side art. I would also consider the PBL fluorescent plastic protector set to add colorful pop to the lower part of the playfield. And if money is no object, add Stern's Amber shooter.
Obviously there are a ton of other mods (trees, goats, signs, etc) to choose from. Be careful not to go overboard!

Lior's Trex.....if you have DEEP pockets. Its awesome! and yes Shaker for sure....this game requires it!

#11012 11 days ago
Quoted from timlah79:

It could very well be that you have a jammed/stuck-ish switch that gets triggered the moment you launch the ball or very soon thereafter. That happens to me from time to time and I think it's some standup target to blame on my machine, but it doesn't happen often enough for me to where I've dug in to figure it out.

Check the stand-up target in the back of the raptor pen.

Quoted from Stormfront:

Or suggestions for tuning new JP machines out of the box?

Let's see what I can still remember:

-Swapping the manual plunger inner spring to the orange version (https://www.pinballlife.com/ball-shooter-plunger-inner-spring-orange.html)
-Align the top edge of the three flipper bat plastics to the alignment holes, not the centers like normal.
-The left fork of the shooting lane ramp often needs a few washers underneath to stop the ball from drifting left and rejecting out of the half-pipe
-Keith Elwin recommends a playfield pitch of seven degrees (I prefer 6.5, but that's me)
-Replace the stock black rubbers off the table to keep the playfield cleaner
-Tighten the upper flipper post; a loose post will start chipping the playfield. Protective washers or rings are also a good idea.
-Make sure the stand-up target in the very back of the raptor pen doesn't rub or catch on the post rubber right next to it (Shim one side of the stand-up brace with washers under the table to lean the target if needed)
-Use tape to block the lower portion of the opto holes in guides/ramps for the orbit and T-Rex ramp to catch faster moving shots or airballs. You can also put washers underneath for a cleaner looking fix.
-Upgrade the thrust bearing on the truck assembly (amazon.com link »)
-Order replacement coil stops for all three flippers. Stern's shipped coil stops used to (and still may) break loose or fail prematurely (https://www.pinballlife.com/flipper-coil-stop-for-sternsega.html)

Almost forgot:
-Drop the ball trough eject strength to the lowest setting

#11013 11 days ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

I just got my prem from the last run....thought that was it...that was May....

Nope. There's a July and I believe Oct run. I'm in on a game from July run. CAN'T WAIT!

#11014 11 days ago
Quoted from Stormfront:

So I have a preorder on a JP Premium and I've been told that Stern is going to be starting their run on JP machines starting on 7/26. So that means I will be getting my machine in soon!
Do you guys have any suggestions for 'necessary' mods? Or suggestions for tuning new JP machines out of the box?

Fabric washers under the apron and at the entrance to the left orbit ball guide.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/66#post-5328991

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/17#post-5225712

#11015 11 days ago
Quoted from chickenscratch:

Ya I lowered by 5,3,1 increments down 20 and up 20 from og; nothing solved the issue. The fork of the auto plunge looks correct on the ball each time, from what I can tell. I’ll check the habit trail adjustment.

I was pushing it forward to exemplify where it made contact. Lastly I ended up tightening only one plate/rod screw all the way to canter it more to center; works 90% of the time now… just would like 100% so I’m not anticipating a fail every plunge, as it throws me off. Think I may just need to drill new holes for the red plate screws.

Raise and lower your auto plunge power in larger increments. Raise it all the way up (max) and see what happens. Then bring it down a little at a time. Initially this worked for me. Then I found if I lowered it below the game setting it got better. Raise and lower in 20 increments.

#11016 11 days ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

You should be able to remove the RED plate screws altogether until you get this issue nailed down. The other three screws will hold the plate in place just fine by tension alone. And keep in mind that if you really are going to drill new holes in the cabinet for the RED screws, you'll likely need to fill the existing ones with a toothpick or small dowel and glue first. (This will allow a new hole to be drilled anywhere it needs to be)

Ah, cool! Not needing to initially install the red screws would help tremendously, as I could dial it in first, let it proof itself at length and thus guarantee the eventual new holes are exactly where they need to be. Cheers!

#11017 11 days ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

The SHAKER, some type of SHOOTER LANE PROTECTOR and TIMLAH's A/V code update are the closest to "necessary" you'll find. The rest is a matter of taste. I consider the Mezel Raptor Pit to be well worth it, along with the WizBlade 'blue' side art. I would also consider the PBL fluorescent plastic protector set to add colorful pop to the lower part of the playfield. And if money is no object, add Stern's Amber shooter and PBL's lighted flipper buttons which match the amber shooter perfectly (order the translucent yellow buttons).
Obviously there are a ton of other mods (trees, goats, signs, etc) to choose from. Be careful not to go overboard!

I'm noticing, on this pin alone, that a shooter protector is going to be necessary very soon. Which do you like, cliffys or vipers or mylar or something else?

Didn't realize there were translucent amber buttons, sounds very cool, going to check that out.

#11018 11 days ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

Lior's Trex.....if you have DEEP pockets. Its awesome! and yes Shaker for sure....this game requires it!

I want to love that trex mod, the texture is SO much better, but the eye bridge completely ruins it for me. Bring that bridge down and fix the eyes in general, and TAKE MY MONEY!

#11019 11 days ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

The SHAKER, some type of SHOOTER LANE PROTECTOR and TIMLAH's A/V code update are the closest to "necessary" you'll find. The rest is a matter of taste. I consider the Mezel Raptor Pit to be well worth it, along with the WizBlade 'blue' side art. I would also consider the PBL fluorescent plastic protector set to add colorful pop to the lower part of the playfield. And if money is no object, add Stern's Amber shooter and PBL's lighted flipper buttons which match the amber shooter perfectly (order the translucent yellow buttons).
Obviously there are a ton of other mods (trees, goats, signs, etc) to choose from. Be careful not to go overboard!

I'll offer a dissenting opinion on the movie assets code. I don't know what it's like now, whether it's been further revised, but I uninstalled it pretty quick. I found that the clips didn't match what was going on in the game, and it made the game more confusing for people trying to learn the game. The stock code can be cheesy, but at least the assets were designed for the game and make sense, instead of trying to make movie quotes fit where they don't really make sense.

I'm a minority opinion on this issue, but I think stock code is better.

#11020 11 days ago
Quoted from seenev:

I'll offer a dissenting opinion on the movie assets code. I don't know what it's like now, whether it's been further revised, but I uninstalled it pretty quick. I found that the clips didn't match what was going on in the game, and it made the game more confusing for people trying to learn the game. The stock code can be cheesy, but at least the assets were designed for the game and make sense, instead of trying to make movie quotes fit where they don't really make sense.
I'm a minority opinion on this issue, but I think stock code is better.

Now that I have played with the movie code for a while I need to switch back and try original....I never played much it...

#11021 11 days ago
Quoted from Flipstream:

-Align the top edge of the three flipper bat plastics to the alignment holes, not the centers like normal.

Keith stated that the upper flipper is aligned with the front edge of the plastic bat to the alignment hole, while the main 2 lower flippers are aligned with the centre of the bat to the hole as normal. The alignment holes on the lower flippers means the flippers are drooped (not in line with the return lane guide) to make it easier to shoot the "C" and "S" shots.

Quoted from Flipstream:

-Use tape to block the lower portion of the opto holes in guides/ramps for the orbit and T-Rex ramp to catch faster moving shots or airballs. You can also put washers underneath for a cleaner looking fix.

Last year Stern changed the left ramp entry bracket extending it to include an adjusted hole position for the entry opto, so you shouldn't have to use tape on that particular opto. If you have a machine from 2019 or early 2020 and your left ramp entry bracket is the original (there's no opto hole in the bracket), then you should contact Stern or your distributor to get the updated bracket.

#11022 11 days ago
Quoted from seenev:

I'll offer a dissenting opinion on the movie assets code. I don't know what it's like now, whether it's been further revised, but I uninstalled it pretty quick. I found that the clips didn't match what was going on in the game, and it made the game more confusing for people trying to learn the game. The stock code can be cheesy, but at least the assets were designed for the game and make sense, instead of trying to make movie quotes fit where they don't really make sense.
I'm a minority opinion on this issue, but I think stock code is better.

This is constructive feedback, thank you! I 100% agree that people should learn the game with the stock callouts/videos. In fact that's one thing I always recommend. In response to your very valid opinion, I do want to point out that I'm pretty sure the version you have is incredibly outdated, probably over a year old now. I've made tons of improvements since calling it good this last March. Also there are limitations as to what can be replaced with what (try your hand at doing this and you'll understand quickly what those limitations are). Do my swap outs for "Shoot the white arrows to spell MAP" make sense? Absolutely not! I took that one for example as an opportunity to introduce iconic movie lines that fit the timing of the stock callouts since IMHO no one needs to hear that particular directional callout over and over again. Through community feedback I've left alone anything purely directional that the general community said needs to stay (i.e. shoot the set trap targets, get back to the helipad, jackpot, extra ball, skillshot). As far as video changes, I also think the version you have was far before I jumped into the videos and reworked them to have them actually make sense (I only worked on the audio at first and came late to the party when it came to video). Nowadays, where I found an equivalent movie clip that the stock animations intended to imitate, I replaced it (certain Control Room modes, T-Rex modes and wizard modes like Museum Mayhem and Raptors in the Kitchen are prime examples of this--I even went as far in some cases here to time the video clip to the stock audio SFX when the animation was almost identical to the movie clip). Otherwise creative but sensical decisions for the mode at hand are what I went for (again just my biased opinion!). The remaining few that may not make sense to everyone are simply creative decisions in themselves (like attract videos for example). With all this said, I don't think you'll be satisfied with the latest regardless and that's totally fine! Just wanted to shed some light here. I appreciate the constructive comment. This game is awesome without the aforementioned tweaks, I'm just a JP movie nerd at the end of the day.

Quoted from JMCFAN:

Now that I have played with the movie code for a while I need to switch back and try original....I never played much it...

Do it!

#11023 11 days ago

Joined the JP club about a week ago. Love the game. Code is unbelievably in depth. So much going on that keeps me coming back.

Who here has the most plays on their game? I find myself having a crappy first ball and starting over quickly. Racking up the plays quick

#11024 11 days ago
Quoted from KissPin:

Joined the JP club about a week ago. Love the game. Code is unbelievably in depth. So much going on that keeps me coming back.
Who here has the most plays on their game? I find myself having a crappy first ball and starting over quickly. Racking up the plays quick

I have first run prem I’m sitting at 300 plays lol

#11025 11 days ago
Quoted from timlah79:

wizard modes like Museum Mayhem and Raptors in the Kitchen

There's a wizard mode called Raptors in the Kitchen? Just when I thought I couldn't suck anymore, there are modes I haven't even HEARD of yet.

#11026 11 days ago
Quoted from KissPin:

Joined the JP club about a week ago. Love the game. Code is unbelievably in depth. So much going on that keeps me coming back.
Who here has the most plays on their game? I find myself having a crappy first ball and starting over quickly. Racking up the plays quick

Quoted from Green-Machine:

I have first run prem I’m sitting at 300 plays lol

I’m over 2650 plays on my LE that I got NIB in Oct 2019. About 1800-2000 of those are me. Still plays awesome. No issues ever other than a failed coil stop. I never restart games. In fact I have it turned off in the settings. You can’t even if you want to.

#11027 11 days ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

I never restart games. In fact I have it turned off in the settings. You can’t even if you want to.

It would be cool if they made it so any game after restarting is not illegible to enter initials for a high score. You say that should be Grand Champion? Too bad!!

#11028 11 days ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

There's a wizard mode called Raptors in the Kitchen? Just when I thought I couldn't suck anymore, there are modes I haven't even HEARD of yet.

Yeah it's the wizard mode once you complete the paddocks path to Visitor Center. Perhaps it's just called "Visitor Center wizard mode" in the rulesheet and elsewhere. The animations are mimicked from that iconic JP1 movie scene of the kids getting hunted by raptors in the kitchen.

#11029 11 days ago

350 games in 19 days

#11030 11 days ago

Installed Pinstadium Neos on my JP Premium today. It had the quick connect option to connect the UV Flasher to the shaker motor.

When I did that, it seems to work for a game or so, and then the UV flasher *and* the shaker motor stop working.

If I reboot the game, it works again... for another part of a game.

Has any body else experienced this? Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!

#11031 11 days ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

I have first run prem I’m sitting at 300 plays lol

Holy crap! Why are you scared to play it? Or why don't you play it?!

I buy my pins to play the crap out of them! Not to sit in a damp basement and hold the floor down!?

#11032 11 days ago
Quoted from embryon:

350 games in 19 days

Hell yes! I play my games to learn them and get better! I don't care about the number of plays at the end of the day. As long as the person keeps them clean and waxed!

Hell my kiss with 3500 plays is the most reliable and best playing pin I have! Keep em clean!

#11033 10 days ago
Quoted from John_I:

It would be cool if they made it so any game after restarting is not illegible to enter initials for a high score. You say that should be Grand Champion? Too bad!!

Why though? You start back at Ball one?

#11034 10 days ago
Quoted from haiderdj:

Installed Pinstadium Neos on my JP Premium today. It had the quick connect option to connect the UV Flasher to the shaker motor.
When I did that, it seems to work for a game or so, and then the UV flasher *and* the shaker motor stop working.
If I reboot the game, it works again... for another part of a game.
Has any body else experienced this? Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!

I’d bring this to the Pinstadiums thread. He’ll help you out. Great customer service.

#11035 10 days ago
Quoted from haiderdj:

Installed Pinstadium Neos on my JP Premium today. It had the quick connect option to connect the UV Flasher to the shaker motor.
When I did that, it seems to work for a game or so, and then the UV flasher *and* the shaker motor stop working.
If I reboot the game, it works again... for another part of a game.
Has any body else experienced this? Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!

Once you get everything working properly I'd be interested to hear your true opinion. Debating them for my Pro.

Love them in my LAH but thought they were a little overwhelming in EHOH. Leaning towards maybe just a couple spotlights for JP.

I'd of course reach out to pinstadium as he is the expert. Must be a connector or loose connection issue, when I triggered off the shaker on EHOH I used a wire tap rather than the adapter but it was kind of a pain to get the wire tap into the shaker connector.

#11036 10 days ago
Quoted from haiderdj:

Installed Pinstadium Neos on my JP Premium today. It had the quick connect option to connect the UV Flasher to the shaker motor.
When I did that, it seems to work for a game or so, and then the UV flasher *and* the shaker motor stop working.
If I reboot the game, it works again... for another part of a game.
Has any body else experienced this? Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!

I had this exact same problem. I even swapped cabinet node boards with my TMNT thinking the node board was bad. Tried all sorts of things with Scott and couldn't get it figured out. I gave up and connected to the lightning flasher on the raptor pen.

#11037 10 days ago
Quoted from BroMan90:

Once you get everything working properly I'd be interested to hear your true opinion. Debating them for my Pro.
Love them in my LAH but thought they were a little overwhelming in EHOH. Leaning towards maybe just a couple spotlights for JP.

I have them on my Pro and I’d buy them again in a heart beat. My scores have increased as well. FYI, the pictures I’ve taken of Pinstadiums with JP look a little purple, but the machine doesn’t look purple in person. It’s probably a crappy picture on my part. Plus you can adjust them however you want.

#11038 10 days ago
Quoted from haiderdj:

Installed Pinstadium Neos on my JP Premium today. It had the quick connect option to connect the UV Flasher to the shaker motor.
When I did that, it seems to work for a game or so, and then the UV flasher *and* the shaker motor stop working.
If I reboot the game, it works again... for another part of a game.
Has any body else experienced this? Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!

The UV flashers, combined with the shaker are probably pulling too much current. I like Pinstadiums, but the UV flashers are too bright for me. I ended up adding an inline resistor to knock them down a bit when I had them on my Munsters. I removed them prior to selling it, and plan to install them on my BM66 when it shows up. I might not even hook that circuit up. I made my own stadium lights for JP. Like an actual stadium, they just stay on for the game.

I'd suggest pulling power from a flasher instead of the shaker. You also then gain some control of how bright they are through flasher brightness adjustment in the game menu.

#11039 10 days ago
Quoted from KissPin:

Holy crap! Why are you scared to play it? Or why don't you play it?!
I buy my pins to play the crap out of them! Not to sit in a damp basement and hold the floor down!?

I enjoy playing my other pins more. I haven’t found a love for it.

#11040 10 days ago
Quoted from gorditas:

The UV flashers, combined with the shaker are probably pulling too much current. I like Pinstadiums, but the UV flashers are too bright for me. I ended up adding an inline resistor to knock them down a bit when I had them on my Munsters. I removed them prior to selling it, and plan to install them on my BM66 when it shows up. I might not even hook that circuit up. I made my own stadium lights for JP. Like an actual stadium, they just stay on for the game.
I'd suggest pulling power from a flasher instead of the shaker. You also then gain some control of how bright they are through flasher brightness adjustment in the game menu.

I might be completely mistaken, but doesn't PinStadiums just use whatever light you hook up to as a trigger, and the lights are actually powered by the the little wall wart?

#11041 10 days ago
Quoted from Only_Pinball:

Nope. There's a July and I believe Oct run. I'm in on a game from July run. CAN'T WAIT!

Yeah my machine is in the July run too! I talked to my supplier and I was told the July run is starting on the 26th, so we don't have much longer to wait!

#11042 10 days ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

I might be completely mistaken, but doesn't PinStadiums just use whatever light you hook up to as a trigger, and the lights are actually powered by the the little wall wart?

You are not mistaken. The LED's are powered by the wall wart. This includes the RGB, white, and UV flashers. The trigger circuits do however still pull current, and the amount of current effects the brightness of the LED's connected to it. You can see this by lowering the brightness of the GI circuit that the respective leads are connected to in the JP service menu. The shaker motor pulls a lot of current when it starts, and combined with the rapid current rise of the UV flasher control circuit, they may combine to be over the limit of the shaker circuit. This shouldn't be that surprising: Stern doesn't warranty node board damage from third party shaker motors, probably because many don't have as tight of control over inductance . It would seem that even their own shakers are close to the limits of the node boards, as shown by the issues seen by the OP.

I never had an overcurrent with Pinstadiums attached to any of the lighting circuits, they were just too bright at times. I'm sure one circuit (GI, flasher, etc) can be chosen that probably coincides with almost every activation of the shaker. The other solution would be to add a CLR (current limiting resistor) if one must have the connection on the shaker circuit. The problem is, most people don't have a wide selection of resistors laying around. I build guitar pedals and amplifiers, so I had a wide selection on hand to experiment with when I made the adjustments myself. I used temporary jumpers until I settled on a value, and then soldered/shrink wrapped it in.

20210722_165518 (resized).jpg
#11043 10 days ago
Quoted from gorditas:

You are not mistaken. The LED's are powered by the wall wart. This includes the RGB, white, and UV flashers. The trigger circuits do however still pull current, and the amount of current effects the brightness of the LED's connected to it...[quoted image]

Wow, I'm surprised the trigger pulls some current. Lots of ways to design a trigger that essentially needs next to nothing for current.

#11044 10 days ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

Wow, I'm surprised the trigger pulls some current. Lots of ways to design a trigger that essentially needs next to nothing for current.

You can't escape Ohm's law.

#11045 10 days ago
Quoted from gorditas:

You can't escape Ohm's law.

True, but a trigger circuit that needs low current (i.e. 1mA, and I'm probably being generous) - the LED you attach to won't be affected.

#11046 10 days ago

My Jurassic Park pro is currently on location at Prehistoric Brewing in Springfield, Mo.

This might be the perfect location for this dino

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CRmxF0QnC2l/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

20200707-144947-Beer (resized).jpg

#11047 9 days ago

I'm back in the club again with a Pro. Had my Prem for 10 month whitout a singel play on it because of a defective playfield/nodeboard/wiring.

I hope this will be a better experience.

#11048 9 days ago
Quoted from Returner:

I'm back in the club again with a Pro. Had my Prem for 10 month whitout a singel play on it because of a defective playfield/nodeboard/wiring.
I hope this will be a better experience.

Holy cow! Can you elaborate?

#11049 9 days ago

Anybody have a picture of what this is supposed to look like?

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#11050 9 days ago
Quoted from Drussksu:

Anybody have a picture of what this is supposed to look like?
[quoted image][quoted image]

What? What are you looking for..???

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