Ahh, perfect. Ya I changed the 302 to Moderate and it is definitely still as strong just doesn’t go nearly as long, which actually works. But setting the arm offset and putting back to Maximum sounds a lot better deal!

Ya, it’s 1.0.3 or whatever; definitely latest as I know latest ends in 3 and birth date of machine is May 21.

This is weird. My JP Pro 302 is the right flipper. 300 is definitely the shaker.

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I see you have the Premium - I bet that is the difference.

The right flipper on my new game will sometimes not come all the way back down after a flip. Is there an adjustment I can do? I wonder if something is on too tight. Thanks guys.

First thing to check is the coil stop. Stern has had issues with these. Easy fix if this is the case.

Guys, I feel like an idiot and need help.

Put on a new shooter plate and after putting everything together the manual plunger lacks a lot of power, to where I 95% of the time cannot get it to go fully through the up kicker ramp thing off of plunge.

I think I put it all back together correctly, dumbly didn’t take before pictures as I didn’t expect any difficulties; now I know better.

I’ve tried adjusting it a dozen times to ensure tip aligns with center of ball.

Here’s some after pictures if anyone can ID the issue:

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How about a picture of the plunger in the shooter lane, with a ball sitting there (to see if things are still centered)?

Are you sure the PF was fully seated?

My guess is that with the new plate the tip of the plunger is just slightly more back from the ball than it was before using the old plate. From your picture is looks like there are two or three washers on the rod outside the cabinet between the spring and the new plate.

I'd try removing a couple or all of those washers and see if you get better results. If doing that gives you improvement but doesn't quite do enough then switch the green spring for a stronger spring and that likely will get you the rest of the way there.

Something that you should do is swap the green spring for an orange one (extra power) - that factory fits the green one but the manual states that it should be orange. Switching to the orange spring solves alot of manual plunger issues in not making the ramp (I realise that it doesn't explain why you have lost all the power in adding the shooter plate but worth noting).

Actually think we’re good now and that it was just slightly off center; amazing how much a few mm makes. It’s not perfect yet, but hitting it 7/10 times rather than 1/10. Wish I didn’t have to raise pf every damn time to make an adjustment lol - thanks

I love avengers theme, im not a maiden fan at all but ive become an elwin fan. Theme isnt everything of course but it helps

Considered that but then realized the stick on plate for the face doesn’t actually affect depth at all; completely superficial.

Oh wow, didn’t realize that; will definitely look around for one and order. Is the spring stern or JP specific or will a parts store just carry “orange spring?”

Ah shit I realized what it is now, wasn’t a left/right adj issue but needed to bring the rod up a good cm; all good now

Pinball Life has them. Order some coil stops while you are at it to have on hand.

You can get a kit from Marco's that has a selection. Color coded for strength.

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So what am Iooking for on the coilstop?

The nub will be loose on a bad coil stop. It’s not always blatantly obvious but replacing them is cheap and easy.

The suggestion to use painters tape to mark the exact location around your old plate before removing it for proper re-installing is a savvy trick that people should use to avoid this.

Well that would have been smart had I known that trick! Would be sweet if we had a post that was “here’s a compilation of every bit of smart knowledge and tricks we’ve learned after decades of pinball” but at that point could probably just publish a book.

Indeed. Though it's not necessarily as vitally important to be 100% exact on other pins as it is for this one. I've swapped plenty of plates before doing restorations and it's never been an issue. This is just one of those instances where perusing your owners thread can come in handy so you can benefit from other's experiences and lessons learned with the pin. I know it's helped me immensely in solving some issues and avoiding others.

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Its at the top of every thread.
And at the top of the forum.

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Gold colored dust in the cabinet under the where the coils are at is dead giveaway.

That’s… obviously not what I was talking about lmao. How am I going to search what I don’t know

There are key posts listed at the top of the first page in the thread, although that said I’m not sure that Mark’s blue tape technique is one of them.

Hi everybody,

Some people, ask me different informations for this mod.
About the electric part we use the elegant Matrix System from Comet Pinball.
The screen inside has 2SMD which are connected to the brightness adjuster to give yourself control over brightness with the quick turn of a screw.
On the other side we use a Matrix quick connect bulb. You have just to replace a standard bulb by this special bulb.
We provide a mouse a keyboard, an UC (Unit Central), the Nedry's mug, the screen with 3 choices of one image illuminated and the plate to mount all the elements. Here are some pictures below.
The price of this mod included shipping is $75 ($60 for the mod and $15 for shipping around the world)

Regards,
Lionel.

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Hi everyone, I got my JP Pro NIB today and it's awesome but I have one strange behavior: the opto on the TRex ramp (the one behind the back wall) doesn't register fast ball shots. If the ball is a bit slower it triggers but when I perfectly hit the ball it triggers 1 of 5 shots or so.
I can only find a fix for the other opto issue of the right lane but this is a bit different and it's only that opto everything else works.

I have a yo-yo kopter mod That moves the T Rex head back-and-forth very simple installation 275 shipped

I also have a tilt topper for Jurassic Park asking 650

Welcome to Pinside and the JP club!

Yes this issue has been posted previously - if you are struggling to find related post, I recommend to also try a Google search (it has a powerful search engine), in this case https://www.google.com/search?q=Jurassic+park+pro+t-rex+ramp+back+opto+issue+site%3Apinside.com shows your issue and fix in the first post reported (ie https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/98#post-5624930). Best to put the tape of the lower half of the opto as this will help with any air balls.

Let us know how you get on.

Correct I have sometimes the same behaviour. I have inserted in the past a piece of cork to slow down the ball. I have made a post. You probably search the post with my comment in this thread. It is working. I have removed it now. I have accepted in some circumstance to have the problem . I take the T-Rex Ramp a second time and that's it !

Thanks for the hints...actually I think I fixed it too but with another workaround: I took some small black tape on the ramp directly under both sensors. Just a small strip on both sides. I think that the transparent plastic is somehow reflecting the light too much and the ball too fast so it won't trigger when passing the sensor. After that all my shots trigger now...

Been in the club since Friday and loving the game. A lot of brick shots until you dial in your aim then it flows real nice. Great thing about the game is there's plenty to do and mix it up with. Here's a photo of my premium with a custom shaker grill thanks to the member here for the file and my 3d printed topper. I still have to light the topper up and finalise the fixing to the head box

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Ya might want to go with shorter screws to attach the topper

Had mine almost a month now. Never noticed these wires until today. I assume this is correct? Do others have a few wires showing right behind the right T-REX Fence post right above the spinner?

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Yep wires are back there soldered to a pcb board, you can easily just tuck them back again so they are not easily seen.

If this game came out in 2019 why is it just now getting so popular. I never heard much about it till a few months ago.

Not sure how you missed it as it was a huge announcement when launched and was so popular then that it sold out rather quickly (at least the LE's and Premiums). I was part of the second Premium run (I think it was the second run), and now they've had a third.

Can you post a pic?

I am starting to see lots of skill shots not being recognized.

Question- is the TREX supposed to drop the ball on the ramp all the time or is there a setting I need to change to make it so it drops on the ramp. Seems random I have seen it drop on the ramp but most times it throws it.

There's a setting where you can turn off throws.

Thank you i will look for it probably missed it then.

It's based on the Trex mode by default. Multiball and rampage throw it. Chase and encounter drop it on the ramp if my memory serves correctly.

As mentioned you can turn off throw.

I'm noticing that I'm often not collecting the O when hitting the right orbit, good-strong hits too that either loop back around to right flipper or get into pop-ups, depending on truck orientation. I've hit it twice, thrice in a row even while flashing and nothing, then some future shot will finally register it. Is there something I'm needing to hit after shooting through the orbit entrance, for it to count, or what could I be looking at here for an issue/fix?

Is there a menu item to disable attract mode sounds for the flipper buttons. I can't seem to find it.

I had the same problem. A few pages back someone mentioned to cover the bottom of the opto opening with electrical tape. Fixed the problem.

As dinot posted, recommend putting some black tape over the lower half of the opto under the right ramp or otherwise the lower half of hole in the ball guide (although this would be more visible), this will ensure that the beam will be fully broken by an air-ball (rather than only partially which the game won't recognise).

yes these screws were for hole alignment purposes not fixing to the head. All done now with proper screws. Now on to the lighting side, the logo is a separate plate so I can install leds and feed wires to the dino section too.

There is also a more 'permanent' fix mention in this thread in the last week or so which involves removing the metal opto assembly from the bottom of the playfield (really easy to access and two screws to remove) adding a couple of washers under the opto mounts, and then replacing the opto bracket. It's the 'non-tape' fix and seems to work great.