Will we be using real Mosquito's? If so put me down

Reminds me of Wednesday Addams' question in The Addams Family: "Do your cookies contain real girl scouts?"

I bought one from a mod maker who used real Mosquitos, but it's been over a year, and I can't find the email. I found the PayPal, but it's a guys name, not a business.

Hope you guys have luck making them. It is a really cool mod for the machine.

Placing my titan order and thinking about clear rings on the slings...

Can someone share a pic of their playfield that has done this?

Thanks!

Thanks @gorditas. Exactly the look I was going for. I like the black posts near the ramps. Blends in better than some of the color options I have seen.

What mirror blades do you have? Any issues with playfield clearance?

Thanks again.

I have colored posts on some of my other games, but I agree: in this case, they kind of disappear. Those are mirror blades from CoinTaker. They clear fine, but the screws they send stick out a bit. I have some special screws I bought to try on my next two installs. I'm waiting on getting my hinges back from the powdercoat guy to install them. I'll report back.

Thanks a lot. Your machine looks great!

Doesn't the Stern one use real mosquitos? I thought mine did?

There was a batch or two from Stern that looked really cheesy. I'd have to search, but either they were using a small bug, or something that was noticeably fake.

the Jurassic park pinball "O orbit" up-post. On mine it never seems to go up. But this certainly works if I test the coil. Is there a software setting for this one?

From a rules form....

"“Jungle Adventure Vehicle”/Truck: A kinetic toy consisting of a plastic truck attached to two captive balls. Hit the ball to change the truck direction between facing either left or right; this determines the path you take through the Island map of Paddocks and determines whether the orbit up-post will divert the ball to the pops."

and

"Right orbit: Awards the “O” in CHAOS, and also advances toward Loop Awards. Spots a letter in MAP (to qualify Paddock modes) when its dino arrow insert is lit white. Awards Rescue, when lit. This is a tight shot that often tends to brick out, so don’t be surprised if you can’t make it on the fly. It tends to be easier from a cradle. The truck’s current position will determine whether the orbit up-post will divert the ball to the pops: facing left = ball goes to the upper flipper and completes the full orbit, facing right = ball goes to pops. A good way to handle the former feed is by holding up the upper flipper; typically you’ll get a safe feed that way. This can also assist in making the Raptor Tower or Supply Drop target."

I think I just figured it out. I did a factory reset and installed "Medium" in the settings, and now it works as documented. But issue caused because I always install "EZ Mode" on my game when I set it up. Just adding in case anyone was curious.

I believe Titan silicone will change the play dynamic of this already really fast game. While I love titan and have them on all of my WPC and JJP machines (and flippers), this game has really active slings (many times slings to outlines). I’d put them on your slings and give it a shot before changing out all your rubber. Unless you already have and know what you’re getting into. My 2 cents!

That’s really helpful. Thanks.

What do you recommend instead then? I’ve been conditioned that the stern supplied rubbers should be removed ASAP…

Personally, I'm all Titan's and really like them in this game. I think you are going to get differing opinions here, so you may want to try a few different things to see what you like best.

Here is my kit: https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/view/id/1475

Since the slingshot power can be adjusted downward, I don't think this is a deal breaker as it might be on other games. For whatever reason, my SW has far fewer adjustments available. Thankfully, the slings aren't as active as JP.

I like Cliffy’s post rubbers when I don’t use Titans.

I just took Titans off of my Tron and just ordered standard rubbers from Gameroom Guys. I’m sure Marcos has a lot as well. I actually rarely use anything other than Titans so I’m not an expert on what else there is!

I always want to play the pin as it was designed to play, which is why I don’t dial my JP slings way down (even though they often enrage me!)

Not sure, I have seen some Amber saps on ebay close the what they used to make shooter rods, but those bugs were printed on a clear vinyl decal so I stepped away from trying with any of them.

Mine is a real Mosquito from Stern but it is an early shooter rod. Maybe they dont make them like this anymore.

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The new ones have fake mosquitoes, but I think it actually looks pretty good. Looks sort of cartoony like in the cartoon from the movie.

Hi everybody

Here is a new mod created especially for Stern's Jurassic Park (any Pro / Premium / LE version). This is Nedry's computer. Located, right at the entrance of the Control Room, the mod contains a complete set, keyboard, illuminated screen connected to a GI, Central Unit and all of the support to place these elements.
You just need to remove two screws to replace your clear plastic. The connection is made through a special bulb which is supplied.
If interested, please do not hesitate to send me a private message.

A video to illustrate our mod :

Some pictures attached

Yoann Poli and Lionel Poli

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Can anybody post the best video mod link....I want some movie clips! Thanks!

Can anybody learn how to use the search function within a thread?.... For those of us that have almost 2 years in this thread it gets annoying. It's the same basic 5-6 questions that just keep getting asked and answered.

All you ever wanted to know about JP custom code:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-jurassic-park-2-custom-code-project/

I actually tried that at first, but nothing showed up for me...

Thank you, friend!

Hey guys, just got my Premium a few weeks ago, wondering if anyone has experienced an issue where the TRex ramp doesn't register every now and then? I know THATS PINBALL, but not necessarily for a new machine. Wondering if this is code or opto/switch/harness related before I go digging.

Thanks!

Yep, especially on fast fly thru skill shots not all the time but once in a blue moon. I think it's opto's just don't register those quick shots thru.

Kind of a major design flaw if you ask me :/

First I'd suggest trying the left ramp test in the diagnostics menu to see if it's the ramp entrance opto or ramp exit opto that isn't registering sometimes.

If it's the entrance, then there could be two likely causes of the beam not being broken to register a shot: 1) The ball can hop up at the ramp entrance so the beam isn't broken, or 2) If the opto is aimed low then a fast shot might not break the beam around the lower (narrow) point of the ball. This can be an issue with any opto in any game. Maybe try the tape fix to see if it helps?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/65#post-5328626

So whats the most minimally invasive way of moving the right outlane post? Seems like id have to take wireform and plastics near heli off?

Shouldn't need to remove anything to move the post. Just use the right size small ignition wrench at the base of the post while using a hex driver on the nut under the playfield to loosen it, then just move the post. There's a cutout in the plastic so it's not blocking the post from being moved. If you can't get your fingers under the wire form to grab the post and move it then you could use needle nose pliers.

Not had this issue happen a single time as far as I'm aware of. Each T-Rex ramp shot should advance the M-A-P light. Definitely need to do a switch test and manually trip it to see if it is performing well, something is out of alignment, and/or something needs to be cleaned or otherwise adjusted.

Now there are times with T-Rex doesn't catch the ball, but I've made adjustments here too in order to minimize non-catches. However, even when a non-catch does occur if the ball hits the mouth it still registers as if the ball was caught and proceeds to T-Rex multi-ball.

Ok ill try. Believe i tried this when i got the machine and failed. I just got the rubber off and it rolled right into the helicopter area and disappeared. So thats fun too.

Out now but will also post some random screw/plastic washer i found in cab today. Couldnt find an obvious spot for it

Just as an FYI, if you are struggling to find something using the website's search function, try using Google as it's search engine is more extensive. You can limit the search specifically to Pinside by adding "site:pinside.com" in your search query. So in your case you could search for "stern jurassic park pinball video mod site:pinside.com".

Hope this helps. Cheers

ok so I found these in my cabinet. Ive had the game a year and havent had issues, but Im sure they go somewhere....

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The clear plastic airball protector over the trex ramp?

maybe, ill check tomorrow. thanks

Folks,

I finished (almost...as I am waiting on a few more mods) setting up my NIB Pro that I received last week. I noticed that the "O" right orbit doesn't always advance the CHAOS (when it is flashing).

In switch test mode, it registers 4 switches. I've tried flinging the ball fast and I still count 4 switches (I just realized that I can slo-mo video the screen to see if it registers every switch...I can try that tomorrow).

During the game, it seems to never advance the O shot unless the jeep is to the right and the ball hits the up post and feeds into the pops. I can fling the ball through rapidly and doesn't advance the O. If that jeep is to the right, the O advances. It is late tonight and I haven't performed extensive testing. (Wife goes to work early and the pin will wake her...gggrrrrrr)

Any thoughts?

Thank you.

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I assume the 4 switches you are seeing are 52 Right Orbit Enter, 53 Right Orbit Exit, 63 Left Orbit Exit and 62 Left Orbit Enter. Switches 52 and 63 are optos, while 53 and 62 are rollovers. With the orbit post up (truck facing right) it would only need to see switches 52 and 53 activate to award the O shot, but I'm wondering if when the post is down it needs to see the ball make a full orbit?? In which case it possibly needs to see all four switches. Maybe test this in a game with the glass off, get the O flashing and see if you can get it to register with just switches 52 & 53 regardless of the truck position. If it will only register with the truck facing right (post up), try again with the truck facing left (post down) and manually passing the ball across all 4 switches - similar to what you did in test mode.

If it needs to see all 4 switches with the post down, I wonder whether a fast flipper hit ball is potentially getting some air and causing switch 63 not to register. Try putting some black tape over the lower half of the opto hole on switch 63 (just left of the spinner exit into the orbit), this will ensure that the beam will be fully broken by an air-ball (rather than only partially which the game won't recognise). Worth a try at least.

Hope this helps and let us know how you get on

Awesome. Thank you. I have some things to try this afternoon. If it is airballs, I may also try to raise the flipper rubber on the bat. I wanted to test in game with the flippers (rather than using my hand to fling the ball into the orbit) but that O shot is really a struggle for me.

Well you'll be good at the shot by the time you've finished your testing

So it looks like the Jeep position was coincidental. Which is great because it made it easier to troubleshoot. It looks like it is switch 52 which is the entrance to the right orbit. Slow moving shots would always register. Fast shots are iffy. But having the Jeep to the left would let me troubleshoot better because the up-post would not trigger on the shots that didn't register.

I covered the bottom half of the opto hole on the lane guide and it looks to be much more accurate now. I was only able to test about 5 times, but every one registered (whereas before it was maybe 30%). Is there a more permanent fix? I don't mind the tape there (I have white electrical tape which hides better than black), but I would imagine that it might not last too long if the ball hits it often.

Thank you.

You were correct thank you sir. Tho when trying to put it back in I dropped the screw under the ramp….heh.

Also played with the glass off today and noticed how noisy the t rex is. Sounds very grindy when moving. Normal?

The T-Rex mech does create a loud noise with glass off. As long as it is working with full range of motion and you don't hear gears grinding, then things are normal.

I dunno if its gears grinding or just regular noise. But its working fine

Cant we put some lithium grease on the gears

I don't know, but the simplest solution is to just turn up the volume on the pin.

I had never heard it until I installed the new TRex....wow... but works fine...

Nice work! If the tape doesn't stay in place on the ball guide, you could put the tape on the opto on the inside of the orbit (under the right ramp)

Thanks Manny. The game is more enjoyable now.