What people were doing was putting tape across the bottom 1/3rd of the opto opening forcing the opto to read higher so fast movers didn’t hop over it.

Okey thanks for explaining. My English isn't the best only learned from TV and read thru forums. So could be that I misunderstood that. But it was a big problem on my JP and I think you can agree if the Trex ramp does not work properly this is horrible for the game. I thout its a laser wich meshures when the ball gets thru and if you have to much revlection it could be mislead the laser. So I wanted tho give it a better contrast.
The tape around fixt it. Never had any problems.

I ordered this dark green on eBay. I'm not sure if it's dark enough fo you. There is only 1 listed as dark green.

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You can always go yellow.

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PS: For those who have never done it, here is my tutorial on removing/installing t-molding: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/183#post-6075319

Thanks! That looks like it may be darker than what I have. I’ll buy some and check it out.

Quick update on subwoofers. I was trying to hook up 3 pins to 1 woofer. I needed to buy the adapter from Pinovators, for 35 bucks. In doing so, it got rid of my back-feed hum for all 3 pins. However, I need to constantly adjust the sub volume when I play different pins.

Each of the 4 inputs on the pinnivators sub mixer thingy has an individual volume adjustment. Adjust them there once and be done with it.

Get these for each pin. It isolates any ground loops, then run the pins to a 4 channel mixer. I run 6 pins into a mixer and 2 subs w/o any feedback issues. It converts the high level woofer output to a low level input to the mixer.

Don't mean to take business away from Pinovators, they may have a similar solution.

https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-35-Variable-Line-Converter/dp/B001EAWS3W/ref=sr_1_1

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How is everyone mounting this?

Piano wire. Drill a hole in it's butt to put the wire in and the other end make a small loop to fit under the washer & screw (typically the screw that holds the spiral wireform)

I'll look into this, thank you

Where can we get the Tim code? And is it a simple download to the SD and plug and play? Just got my JP so kinda new to this. Thanks!

Send timlah79 (creator) a PM and he'll send you a private download link. He'll provide instructions and yes it's plug & play - probably best to pick up another SD card (if you don't already have a spare on hand) details can be found in the custom code thread https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-jurassic-park-2-custom-code-project

Da-Shaker

You only need 1 of the outputs (i.e. right +, right -, and maybe the brown ground wire) using some small alligator clips. I use some of the removeable adhesive strips (3M Command) to keep the gizmo in place. The device itself is just what is call a 'balun' - this is typically used in autos to hook up external amps to a deck. Fits the bill perfect for a pin.

You can see pics of how I mounted mine in this post: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/179#post-6059089

Just passed 1B for the first time tonight.
Didn't make it past the last paddock but had an epic Chaos multiball going.

So tough but so good...

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Perfect!!

Awesome thank you! How did you mount your trees? I was planning on the piano wire again but yours look like well mounted as well

This one is better one
We built the mount with the same placement in the pinball. We sell the dino and the mount of course. It is plug and play. We send around the World
And we have 4 others mode for the Pro:
Mosquitos Inserts, Pteranodon, Velociraptor, Signs x 4 and the moving blade
Send me an E-mail if you want some picture of all.

Lionel.
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Hi everybody,

If you have a Jurassic Park on Pro version.
We propose 4 mods for this pinball and 1 mod for Premium/LE:

• Moving Blade (Propeller)
• Mosquitos Insert x 3
• EastDock Panels x 4
• Velociraptor Mod
• Pteranodon Mod

Some mods can be personalized with your colors.
Don't hesitate to contact me by MP.

Have a nice day !

Lionel.

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Searched forum and thread but couldn’t seem to find the right keywords to narrow this one down.

Less than 2 weeks old. My flippers occasionally trigger the lower pop bumper. Reseated all the connectors under play field, eyeballed the solder joints, all look OK. Any ideas?

Try checking the pop bumper leaf switch, it's likely set too close together and vibrations are triggering it. You can also go into switch test and smack the playfield near the pop bumper and see if that makes the switch register, that would suggest it is too close.

I didn't like the plastic raptor Stern stuck in the Pro either, so I've been working on one too. Just slides over the flat plastic raptor, nothing to remove. Fake plants hides the plastic piece. Still a little bit more to tinker with.

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#2 in the top 100 for the last week!

The nerds will make sure that ends soon

For a good reason, I might add.

If you want to see Pteranodon flying, it is here
This Mod is proposed for any JP machine (Pro/Premium/LE)

Lionel.

Shake n bake!

Hello all: Joined last night with a few month old Premium. Has the inside side art and rumble pack.

Definitely need an appropriate plunger knob at least yet and figure out how to get the AV code on her.

Are any of you sharing the code to some of these cool dinos to add? I don't have a 3d printer but my son does.

Most (if not all) are bought online - there are plenty of posts in the thread with the links of what people specifically purchased, so find what you like in the gallery pics (if they don't have the link, simply post what dino you are wanting so people can advise where to get it)

Hey JP owners, just some more mod options for you:

Start Buttons:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1282-rocket-city-pinball/05094-3d-start-button-jurassic-park-stern
Rocket City Pinball JP Start Button (resized).png

Coin Reject Buttons (island version):
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1282-rocket-city-pinball/05093-3d-coin-reject-buttons-jurassic-park-island-stern
JP-Stern_a_RCP (resized).jpg

Coin Reject Buttons (egg version):
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1282-rocket-city-pinball/05134-3d-coin-reject-buttons-jurassic-park-eggs-stern
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All the buttons are customizable with your choice of translucent base color (red, orange, yellow, green, blue, purple, clear/white). You can also choose any color you want for the baby dinos or the JP signs.

PM me if you have any questions, or visit my shop (https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1282-rocket-city-pinball) or website (https://rocketcitypinball.com). I'm also on Facebook (https://facebook.com/RocketCityPinball) if you want to follow me there for new product announcements.

So as everyone is putting his selling stuff here.
just a question. Would anyone be Intressted in the carmod for jp? I designed a adapter for the car for easy mount.
Cost would be car with adapter 50 Dollar, shipping to US would be around 20 Dollar.
I can only make limmitted amount because of the toy Cars and it would take up to a Month until I get the Cars. Just to inform if there is an intresst.
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prices in u.s.?

Could you make the 3D stl file for the adapter available? I would be happy to pay you since I already have the jada jeep.

Thank you for your interest.
Ass all 3d Modlers know it's a bad idea to sell or give away 3d Files.
I had to change and print it over 20 time so it would fit that perfect and I am happy with it. It solves the problem, I think a lot run into if they first try to attach the Jada car. Wich i that the car is to high and could collapse with the ptranodor guide for the ball. Also the Metall adapter is covered from the adapter and does not disturb if you look at it. (see Picture)

I Print this part with high durable and strong material. It is all testet well.

What I can do is sell you only the adapter for 30 Dollars + shipping.

Best regard

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Not to say the adaptor isn't a great idea, but if you are looking to use the OEM plate I outline the correct way/alignment to do it.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/162#post-5967641

Also, I painted the back of my bracket black where it is exposed.

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If you mean with OEM plate, the metalplate, it is placed perfect. As I wrote I did 20 trys also I wanted the car perfect balanced so it isn't a pain to change the direction of the car when you hit it. Sry if understand something wrong.

I Understand you can do it like in the post you linked but I am not sure how long the screws can hold until they are worn out.
The metal plate sits flat on my adapter and the force of the hits will not be only on the screws they will be dampened.

My adapter allows the metalplate to be more in the middle (better balanced) because i could go lower and i was not limmited to the surface of the orginal car bottom wich was a way higer.
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Ive had my pro for a few weeks now and I've been noticing that after 30-40 minutes of play my flippers start getting weaker and the auto plunge gets significantly weaker. I did the nylon washer fix on the shooter lane and that helped fix the few rejects I would get on the auto plunge, but the weakening auto plunges still remain. These start happening after a few games, and then it's like it will randomly start smacking it harder than before.

I'm new to the hobby, so I wanted to ask if anyone else has experienced this "power" fade. I haven't seen much mention of the flipper fade common to other newer sterns in the forum, and with the auto plunge strength issue I thought these could be related. I will add though, between my wife and myself, it has been getting a LOT of play.

Your coil stops are likely damaged. They are poor quality from the manufacturer. Easy fix and inexpensive. Many of us had this problem

Haven't run into the issue just yet, but is the recommendation to switch out the coil stops proactively or simply have some on hand for replacement when needed? Any other items I should stock up on? And where's the best place to buy?

Thanks in advance for the assistance.

I was going to swap them out, due to previous issues, and bought replacements. However, I haven't had the need to and they've lasted far better than previous

Have them on hand and replace them if you notice lack of power or gold dust in the cabinet. I get most of my parts from Pinball Life, Pinball Resource, or Marco Specialties. I find PBL and PBR have the best prices.

I haven't had to replace the coil stops in my NIB with around 700 plays on it but I do have spare stops on-hand. My guess is they will last until it is time to do a flipper rebuild, since they haven't failed on me yet.

I had an issue once also for a few days where as the game went on the auto plunger would get weaker and weaker after a few games where it finally would only just barely push the ball to the end of the shooter lane. I wiggled on all the connection points (including soldered connections at the coil) from the coil to the board and the problem was resolved. I'm not sure which one it was because I wiggled and pushed on them all before re-testing it, but some connection must have been a bit loose and causing the problem. Might be worth trying to push a bit on the connections in yours to see if that helps.

One of my coil stops pooped out at about 680 plays. Like you I had some on hand for the day it happened. I changed them all while I was under the hood

Thanks everyone. I'm sure it won't hurt to order some replacements in case that is the issue. Going through and wiggling my connection per EaglePin's suggestion as well.

Appreciate the guidance. Over on PBL site now - beyond the coil stops, any recommendations for must have Stern spare parts? Might as well order what I may need now.

I thought they were extinct...

In the club! Finally.

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Hi All. I'm an original JP LE owner. My raptor cage motor has crapped out so I purchased a new one from pinball life. MOTOR 24 VDC, 12 RPM - CLUTCHED 041-5111-00. The stock motor has 3 capacitors connected. PBlife's replacement does not include these but they did sent me 3 of them. However, I have no clue how to recreate the attachment of them to the outer housing of the motor itself. I only own a soldering iron. Also the JP manual makes no mention of these capacitors anyway. Can I safely install the new motor without them? If not how do I recreate the pictured attachment of them to the motor housing? This appears to be some kind of weld, not a solder job.

041-5111-00 Raptor Motor (resized).jpg

The capacitors are there for a reason. I would not install it without them.

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?14655-Why-capacitor-on-motor

It doesn't look too hard. Just solder a capacitor between the terminals and from each terminal to the housing. If you're not comfortable with soldering then maybe ask someone else to do it for you.

THANK YOU! I'm not worried about soldering the connectors. It's the solder "blob" on the motor housing that I do not know how to do. I also don't think it's a standard solder job. If I put my soldering iron at it's max temp 890 degrees, it doesn't even melt that stock "blob". I have even tried putting the iron on the inside of the broken stock motor housing to see if I can just pull off the blob itself. I've also tried to exacto knife it up so I can reuse it. No luck. It is not solder I don't think. It is "welded" onto the housing / w/e metal the housing is made of. I imagine even if I use the new capacitors in the same manner, that it's probably not a good idea to glue or use electrical tape to attach that housing point? Due to heat from the motor?