Well that was a fun game of JP - still haven’t hit a mini wizard mode yet! Time to recover with a nap haha.

Onwards!

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Hayfarmer thanks for all the help, I've tweaked and adjusted for hours on hours and can't get it to work, I guess I'll call the distributer and see where to go from there.

Mines at about 75% good, so I guess I'll be happy there. Good luck!

Looks like the ramp is digging into this plastic piece and sending shrapnel out as well.

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Ouch!! Needs a little mylar there

Not sure if this has been asked in this thread yet (only gone through about 1/3 of the 212 pages so far). My JP Premium has two stuck ball issues.

One is at where the spinner lane meets the upper loop. There is a swinging gate that keeps the ball from dropping down through the spinner lane. The ball gets stuck either above the gate (the lost ball mode can free it here) or, worse, the gate swings back ~ 1/4 of the way and the ball sticks there. If the later happens I have to either pull the glass and remove it or knock it out on the next ball. Is this a known issue with a known fix?

The other happens sometimes with a rejected tower shot. If I am really unlucky the ball with either go under or on top of the plastic behind the raptor. In this case the only way to address it is to pull the glass and remove the ball. Known issue? Known fix?

Other that those the game has been pretty solid. I was getting some ball rejects (~5%) on shooting but a shooting lane protector seems to have cleared that up. Also has some issue with the right ramp to tower transition mentioned in this thread. Adjusted the ramp exit and it seems to transition cleaner.

Issue 1: Common issue and easy to fix https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/99#post-5630078

Issue 2: Another issue seen before - here's a few solutions
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/135#post-6196142
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/135#post-6200839
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/135#post-6200994

Had a terrible ball 1 and 2 then went for raptor MB. Made it to victory laps.

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Hi, thank you for your feedback and advice ! We appreciate that !

Thank you Mike for your feeback too. We try to make our customers happy. We hope to be successful.

@lionelpo91. What's the story with your side art blades? Can you show the rest of them? Also interested in a heli blade set.

I just purchased my first pinball machine, Jurassic Park Pro, that arrived three days ago. On day one, everything was working normally. Yesterday, I noticed that the upper right ramp was not registering any shots (photos below). The long metal lever switch does not seem to be doing anything any longer. I took the glass off when the ramp shot was lit and flipping the gate or metal lever did nothing. Not sure if something isn't connected here, but no matter what you do (lift, push, flip) nothing registers. Anyone have this happen or any ideas what to do here? Thanks for any advice.

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You'll want to start with basic switch testing steps i.e. Have you gone into the Switch test to see if it registers there? If the switch test menu doesn't register, does the switch make a "click" when you roll a ball through and/or does anything else seem wrong physically with that switch assembly, solder joints etc? Have you followed the leads from the switch wire to its connection underneath to see if anything is loose?

BTW it kind of looks like the switch arm metal may be in the down/stuck position so if you're lucky and that's the case, a little tweaking of that metal should free it up.

Hard to tell for sure in those pics, but it almost looks as though the switch is stuck down? Do you hear the click when you pull up on it slightly? It could just be a matter of readjusting the arm of the switch. It should be "unclicked" at rest, and click when the ball goes through the gate. That is one nice thing about microswitches like this...you can (usually) hear if they are physically working.

It definitely does not have a click to it at all. Its lose sitting flush and when you slightly pull it up, it just falls back down flush. Assume it's broken if no clicking? Do I open a ticket with Stern for a replacement part since it's 3 days old?

Try using a small screwdriver to push on the actuator under the metal arm. It looks like it might be stuck down. The actuator looks like a little colored nub. You might be able to release it if you lift the arm up and try to loosen the switch.

Yes of course if it's 3 days old you should leverage Stern support. However, it seems unlikely that the switch is totally busted so early on. Also from Stern you'd have to wait for the part and hope that they send it with the connector soldered on (don't get me started on the latter...). So given that the switch is at a pretty accessible place you should try to at least see if it's actually busted. This isn't going to be your last switch rodeo so might as well take it as a learning experience.

Totally agree with this advice. The little nub may be stuck or the arm joint's hinges could be loose on the other side or the bracket with the rotating piece could be keeping it in the depressed position. If you literally can't get the nub/actuator to make a clicking sound then yes definitely the switch needs to be replaced.

BTW if you post a video w/ sound of you rolling a ball through in each direction during the switch test menu, anyone here will probably pinpoint the issue immediately.

Here’s what mine looks like. Try bending the metal arm on yours so it’s similar. The button that the metal arm presses to activate the switch is under the arm in the red circle in my pic. Yours looks like it’s keeping the button pressed down. The arm needs to be adjusted so the button is up until the arm presses it down.

If you change the arm to the correct shape and the button is stuck down, then try to get the button to pop up and retest it.

Either way though I think you need to adjust the shape of the arm to get it working correctly.

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EaglePin timlah79 chubtoad13 Jediturtle - Its fixed! I can't thank you all enough for your help with this one. The tiny black button under the long lever was stuck. I poked at it lightly with a screwdriver with no luck. I then took the two screws on the left off holding that unit trigger on and it popped right up and clicked. The rollunder gate was lose also, so tightened that down to hopefully avoid more rattling that might have caused the original issue. Reset it all and it started clicking again. Not sure how it got stuck like that, but I'm just glad it's working for now. Thanks again all!

BAAAAM! Welcome to the club! Club meaning a) you own this fantastic machine and b) you have members of this incredible pinside place who are willing to help and advise. You now know more about how that switch works than probably many others do. BTW I was too lazy to pull my glass off to take a proper photo for you to compare (I did with the glass on but it would've been worthless to you), yet EaglePin wasn't as lazy as me and came through with an essential photo! So glad you got it figured out man. If it gets stuck again, at least you know it's the switch or something in that assembly which is not hard to source. I would at least bring this up to Stern support to maybe get yourself a new switch assembled just in case, so you can plug and play if it happens again. Their support is great and they want your machine to be sustainably working especially throughout your warranty period, so just a suggestion since I don't think that would be too much to ask from them.

Great! Glad it’s fixed, nice job!!! I was also just about to post info on using the switch test menu to help diagnose issues. Still worth posting I think so you can use it in the future. If you go into the menu and choose Diag/Sw then you’re in the switch test area. There are two ways you can check. One is by selecting Test. That will show if a switch is registering when you activate it. If you try to activate a switch and nothing happens then you either forgot to pull out the white interlock switch near the coin door hinge or the switch has something wrong and isn’t registering. In the first pic below you’ll see I circled in red the square that appears when you press the button on Switch 54 ( the ramp exit switch). The next pic shows that there is no square there because I’m no longer pressing it so the switch isn’t active.

Another item in the Switch Menu is “Act” for showing active switches. Again you have to have the interlock switch pulled out for it to work. Just be careful and don’t reach around coils or wiring because the interlock switch allows full power to go through the machine when pulled out. It’s designed so high power is cut to the machine when the coin door opens. The Active Switch test scrolls through all the switches that are currently being activated. In your case Switch 54 would have come up in this test because your button was stuck down. My 3rd pic shows how it would have looked in the test. Notice the square appears again showing it’s an active switch. If the switch hadn’t been active then Switch 54 wouldn’t come up as one of the items as it scrolls through the active switches in the test.

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If anyone has an extra Matchbox Mission Chopper, please let me know. Thanks!

I know you already fixed this, but in case it happens again (for a different reason): It does look like the actuator lever on the switch is not aligned in the center and is catching on the vertical section of the piano wire.

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With this new wave of JP owners, I wanted to remind everyone that I offer a variety of mods for the pin. Many of my items are listed in the Pinside market, but if you PM me I'm happy to provide a link to all of my available mods.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds?s=1&keywords=&ad_machine_keys%5B%5D=2792&ad_machine_keys%5B%5D=2791&ad_machine_keys%5B%5D=2790&ad_what%5B%5D=machine&ad_what%5B%5D=parts&ad_what%5B%5D=mod&ad_what%5B%5D=other&ad_wantedforsale%5B%5D=forsale&ad_wantedforsale%5B%5D=wanted&min_price=0&max_price=50000&pinsider=Mr_Tantrum&machine_type=&ad_machine_manuf=&year_from=1931&year_to=2021&ad_condition=0&ad_countrycodes=&radius_distancekm=0&source%5B%5D=pinside#results

Anyone have any issue with the ball not stickingin T-REX in T-REX Rampage and T-REX event?--really odd--sticks just fine in T-REX multiball-but not the other modes.

When you say "not sticking" do you mean it's not making the catch at all or that it's making the catch but then the ball is dropping out of its mouth when it's supposed to be holding onto the ball?

Not making the catch at all.

Have you tried testing it by hand? Take the glass off and start Feed T-Rex and then cross the ramp entrance opto by hand with the ball and see if the magnet activities to hold it. Let the multiball drain out and then spin the truck by hand a few times to get the next T-Rex event started and do the same hand feed to see if the magnet is activating to hold it when you feed it the ball. This way you can see if the magnet triggering is an issue or not. Just an idea for a way to start to rule things in or out as potential causes of the issue.

I am sure it has been covered but what are the most have mods for a JP Premium

And I'll testify that his mods are decently priced and good quality, delivered quickly.

- Original film audio and video.
- 3D helo
- shaker motor
- orange raptor pen translucent buttons (best ever bang for the buck!)
- possibly the truck upgrade although I have not done that yet.

Most of the rest are decorations.....

oh, and Amber shooter rod if you can find one.

where do i find these??

- 3D helo
- orange raptor pen translucent buttons (best ever bang for the buck!)
- possibly the truck upgrade although I have not done that yet.

Nice to have? Check @mr_tantrum's store. He has the raptor pen lens, and a great shooter plate insert that fits perfectly on the shooter plate, with or without LEDs. he also has the caution striped flipper bats tops. nice 3D stuff. Also check out MezelMods. Mods are really a personal choice.

Must have? Cliff's Shooter lane protector and shaker motor.

Thank you for the pointers! I adjusted the one-way gate and seems to not push back in like it was before. Now it can only get stuck above it which is freed by the lost ball sequence. Will try out one of the suggestions for behind the raptor pen and see how that goes.

Not sure what you mean by "seems to not push back in like it was before" - maybe post a pic??

Also may sure you game is level side-to-side. What pitch do you have on your PF?

Looks good. I've thought about getting art blades but I'm worried they'd get torn up when I lift the playfield. Does that happen? I've had games that scratch the walls when lifting the playfield.

Get a set of side protectors (pinball universe) that can be put in while you are working on play field and then removed when you are done. Saves the sidewall paint or artwork. IMHO, A must have tool...

Adding to Mark's post (if you're in the US):
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The decals are scratch resistant. They handle the pf going up and down. Even so, you still have to be careful because no matter how strong they are, there is always a limit. (which is very high)

Hi, we have tried lot of thing . Different shapes have been made and two purposes were investigated: change the axis or not? Finally, we have built a blade with a minimal change for our customer. In the case of changing the axis, we have tried blade in touch directly with the ball but sometimes in this context the ball could block between the blade and the rail. We have aborted this option. And we have chosen to keep the axis and built a blade with metallic rode and a screw and a bolt that acts as a weight. As I said in my post, we can make different colors with on shape in 4 or 6. Most of our customers choose 4 in blue with white line! Here are some photos for different prototypes we made . But we have now the final one presented in my post #10424 shown on video and the first picture of this post.

@JSBebop2071, for getting a Heli blade set send me an email.

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Hi everyone..... quick (hopefully) question. On my pro, it seems like the right orbit (I think that's what it's called) where the letter S for Chaos, doesn't seem to register often. When I do a switch test though and use the ball to test, it looks like it's always registering. Any ideas?

Air balls maybe?

Had the same Problem on the left and rigth orbit. The opto was,'t able to catch the fast balls. After some use the Metall becomes little matt so the sensor catch now all movements. On the Trex orbit used some black isolation tape and taped on the plastic guides around the optos so the sensor could better register the ball. Now it works fine.

Are you saying put black tape on the opposite side of the Optos so it can easily detect the ball?

Does anyone know where I can buy the dark green T moulding that is on the LE? Tmoulding.com offers green and bright green. I ordered the green and it’s not dark enough to match the trim.

MY premium is in..... Going to pick up today so its gonna be a great holiday weekend !!!

JP Premium is on another level. Officially joined! Proud to be with you.

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If you've first tested the optos in switch test mode while using your hand to trigger them to make sure they're working and they seem to be working, then it's probably worth trying the tape fix. Here's a post with a picture of what I did on my left orbit.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/65#post-5328626

Here is a picture. I read somewhere in this topic that people with a premium had problem with the Trex not catching the ball and use isolation tape so I try it on these and it works since then.

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