Takes a few minutes to lower the flipper mech. You don't even have to take the flipper off. Not a big deal to do.

Everyone should have a set of these screw extractors, they work great:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LDMKR5G/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_D51PRSQKB03BQV6V9WMQ

Walmart also has Dinosaur toys for $1 and they're pretty good looking.

I installed the same toys you did, but the Raptor came loose after I installed the shaker. I guess I need to use more hot glue. The default shaker setting is seriously vibrating the pin when the T-Rex roars. Too much, really. I got the low temp hot glue, thinking it would be safer on the plastics. Maybe it doesn't stick as well...

I turned down the shaker the other day, I'll haven't checked it out yet.

Pics of the upper flipper post mod. You’ll need to remove the entire flipper mechanism to install the nut on the other side - I’d recommend a nylock nut, which I didn’t have on hand when I did this. I’m going to remove the Lexan washer now that I have the game off location.

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Hey everyone,

Just joined the club this morning. No more relying on Youtube videos lol. Looking forward to eventually adding mods like the trees etc.

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Mine too, it's nuts!

I wouldn't have it any other way (let's everyone know there's a T-rex in the house).

How many plays did you have on it?

What is the yellow button below the start button?

Tournament button. It’s a Canadian thing.

Does it come preinstalled from the factory?

You can buy a factory cover-plate for that hole and disable tournament in the settings screen. (Machines always have that cabinet cutout, but they ship from factory with the cover plate installed.

I'm finding the slings --> outlane to be brutal. Is this normal?
Like bullet fast, unsave-able outlane drain monster bad.

My game is setup around 7.5 pitch.

For Canada models yes. It comes that way.

Just a quick follow-up about the upper playfield flipper post fix. My friend and I bought our JPs together so we could combine delivery and save a little money. Well, after league last night, I mentioned doing this fix, and someone told me that my friend’s JP (after having been sold several times) developed exactly the problem I was afraid of. The loose post chewed a hole in the playfield, and it took wood putty to repair it. I’m hearing this 3rd-hand and I don’t know the extent of the damage, so take that for what it’s worth.

TL;DR: check those upper flipper posts and keep ‘em tight!

There should be an adjustment for coil strength. But it’s not uncommon for Sterns to do what you describe in their first 100-200 plays. The slings should calm down a bit over time.

Nice @eaglepin. I have a thin wrench that I have used to tighten that post I’m going to try to squeeze in there without removing the flipper mech. I’ll let you know how it goes. Like the orange rubbers.

Over 2,000 last I checked.

I turned down sling strength for a month when I first got the game...let the rubbers/ mechs break in a bit and then return settings to factory. It’s definitely way too much power out of box.

got a pic of post you used?

bent98 sells them also (I have one, and it looks much better than the factor plug, plus it is operational): https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1074-bent-mods/03066-spike-flush-mount-custom-tournament-button-

Post #10205 above

Game designer recommended 7.0 for pitch.

A new wave of owners, a new round of pitch discussion.

I got my game used and slings still brutal. Don't know about any break in time. I turned mine done quite a bit. Plays a bit more fair now.

I wanted to make my alternate translite have more of cool white background so thanks to Markharris2000 for the very simple idea of adding cool white led strips to the back haha.

Right now they are plugged into the service outlet, im just a stuck on how to get them to turn on and off with the game(using the service outlet they are just ON even when the game is off). Im guessing I can do some soldering and wire them into an existing 12v line that is getting power but im trying to think if there is a simpler way im not thinking of. I have speaker lights as well and im thinking of somehow wiring them into that, but the main brick powering those LEDS says 24v. Any ideas?
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If you want to do it in a pretty easy way, try this:

There's outlet strips the have switched outlets, controlled by a single outlet. i.e. When something draws current in the controlling outlet, then it turns on the other outlets. Plug the pin into the controlling outlet and then the LED's power supply in the switched outlets.

You'd have to run the LED power wire into the pin, but no tinkering otherwise.

Plenty of other options tho. Perhaps an Alexa controlled outlet strip inside the pin, with the LED's plugged into that. Just tell Alexa to turn on the pin LED's.
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I've been thinking about putting this little Nedry in somewhere. What would be the best place for him?

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Getting eaten at the foot of the Raptor.

Congrats to all the New Owners! I have mine 17 months, and I have been beside myself with Joy playing this game.
It beats me more often than I wish, but it pushes my adrenaline and pin play like no other pin!
Just a kick ass freaking game!

Hey JP crew,

I did the 3D JP speaker grills not long ago (post # 9739) and PinPeet reached out about making something to replace the dino plastics down by the outlanes. Good idea!

So I was fooling around just to get a rough idea. I started on the right side (albiet w/a T-rex stl file I had on hand, will switch it to a raptor)

Still working on the size, height, angle, what to chop off - really everything right now, especially how to mount it on the two posts that currently hold the plastic pieces. I don't think I want to have have openings on the top side for attachment, it would look gaudy. I'm thinking of just having some screw holes in the bottom and have it set on some posts

Of course, it needs to be painted to really look good.

Suggestions welcome! If anyone wants the stl files when I'm done, just PM me later when I'm done.

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A big thanks for your speaker stl. I'm patiently waiting on my game still but have passed this time making bling stuff. I think these came up great. Thanks again.

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Excellent!! I was thinking about the yellow caution tape, but I didn't want to wear out my welcome w/the wife's painting skills.

You stick on the mag tape yet?

The RGB controller for the speaker lights is not 24v...or a power brick. It has +12vdc going into it. The labeling on it just means it can handle +5vdc - +24vdc which would be dependent on what type of light strips it has connected to it. What the speaker lights are using is +12vdc light strips so +12vdc is what is going to the controller to power them.

I don't know if adding an additional 250+ leds to draw off of the games boards would be wise. I think getting the needed power from another source (like mbwalker suggested) and how you have them powered now, might be a better way to go.

Not yet as I don't own a spike 2 game to test fit. I do have the take ready and waiting.

I always install these in that spot (albeit a blank, not a tournament button) in my Stern pins:

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I replaced the slim outlane posts with these star posts. I gives me and the grand-kid a better chance. Still adjustable too.

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Boy, mine was on default...felt like a shaker table we have at work. Figured I'd spare the node boards under the PF from a torture test.

Update to my original post that had a t-rex on the right as an experiment to replace the flat plastic raptor. Switched over to a raptor.

I think maybe about ~1 inch shorter on each side. Will know in about 5hrs.

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It seems a recent second wave of JP Premiums are shipping now. Anyone know when pros might be on the way?

Really digging this game. It took about 10 days to reach the visitor center for the first time. Went up the right side. Stacked raptor tri-ball with the raptor paddock. Then on to the visitor center for more fun with raptors!

Anyone have to adjust the feed from the right ramp to the upper flipper? Mine bounces around, especially on faster shots. It can even bounce around the upper flipper entirely so I don't get a shot.

The simplest way would be for you to solder wires from the existing LED strip to the new LED strip that you have running around the backbox. Neg to Neg, Pos to Pos. Would take 5 mines with a soldering iron and some wiring.

If you don't have any spare wiring, I would recommend a roll of this
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B009VCZ4V8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title

Now I’m depressed. I’ve had mine for over a year and I haven’t been to the VC yet. I need to play better! And avoid the T-Rex paddock.

Same. Never been to VC after countless games.

You have to play around with the circular wireform. Loosen the attachment points and try different positioning and test with a ball. Mine needs a re-adjustment but I'm too lazy lol. It did play well for some time though after I had adjusted it. I've been moving my games around which screws up things (pitch and level).

Today I installed the Stern side armor.

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Almost not worth the money, you can hardly see them. To bad there’s not a way to back light them.

Yea looks great....but when you slide the game back in...?? How much...????

Me too. Came close a few times though. Right below it.