Yeah. I've reseated the cable at the node board. Again, it seems like reseating on either end of the cable very temporary makes it work.
As far as getting shocked, I'm referring to trying to get to the Jeep while the pf is down, machine on, reaching through the coin door.
Now I know why I'm the 3rd owner of this machine. Lol.
But I'll be the best!

Understood. Does it register when the playfield is partially down? (Resting on rubber pads). If it is not registering, you have replicated the issue from a space that will be easier to diagnose. Then unplug or turn the game off, and set your multi meter to continuity mode. Test for continuity for each opto pad trace to the first connector (eg yellow wire to its corresponding connector terminals etc). May have to test all the way to the board if you can get at it.

Other thing is key- you will likely need to tug/play with the wires /connectors while the playfield is up and machine powered to mimic the tension in the lower position to see if you can reliably replicate the condition while the playfield is up so you can actually diagnose with your multi meter.l without getting into a funky yoga pose. I remain confident the issue is in your wires or cold solder joint and you will need to run a bypass or reflow.

So your theory is the connections are becoming lost as the pf gets lowered? I can leave the pf on its "legs", i could try to do some testing that way. I have reflowed all solder joints on the opto board. I have not messed with the node board. Thx.

When I was

My theory is one of the wires is losing connectivity when the playfield is lowered and the harness shifts around. It’s probably pinched. Weirdly never had this sort on my Williams sttng but the gauge wire on the stern feels minimal spec in comparison.

Got our jurassic park pro swapped out of a location recently after being there for about 2 years. Cleaning things up and found this under the slingshot star posts. I knew we had some bubbling around some posts here and there, but goddamn. What do yall think I should do to keep this from getting worse. I was thinking clear nail polish or something.

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I'd pickup some plumber washers and put them under the posts to stop it from spreading.

when you say plumber washers, what do you mean? I am not familiar with this term.

Are you using poly or silicone rings (or anything other than standard rubber)?

You might try some FENDER WASHERS. Fender washers are very wide, but have a small hole in the middle. They come in lots of sizes. Get stainless steel if you can find them. Hillman and MCMaster catalogs will show them.

just your regular stock rubbers,

I've been playing around with some different washers to use, I need to go to the hardware store for some other stuff, so I'll check out some options. The chipped paint is far enough out where it will be close to the ball hitting it on the outside, we'll have to see.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/DANCO-100-Piece-Assorted-Flat-Washer-Set-34441/100145028

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-3-16-in-x-1-in-Metallic-Stainless-Steel-Fender-Washer-3-per-Pack-800501/204284500?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&mtc=Shopping-B-F_D25H-G-D25H-25_3_FASTENERS-NA-NA-Feed-LIA-NA-NA-Fasteners_LIA&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D25H-G-D25H-25_3_FASTENERS-NA-NA-Feed-LIA-NA-NA-Fasteners_LIA-71700000065880652-58700005819508955-92700060803587015&gclid=Cj0KCQiA1pyCBhCtARIsAHaY_5c-LM8bDdrD_QAT3lrs2h_2V_RK5nRP_AqXIXzJ_D7g8Jph3jYrbbUaAiUDEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Damn...I thought I was on to something.

Car fenders, not Fender guitars.

I have Cliffy's in the key areas, but Pinball Life and others sell various washers now for this purpose as well. They are clear silicone. https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-700-0070-00-70
I am going to order some to try out, but have not used them yet. No idea if they work any better than hardware store washers, but they are only $.50 ea and I like that they are clear...Just make sure you order some other "necessities" with them to justify the shipping, or those washers become a lot more expensive lol!

I think those PBL washers (and Cliffy's carbon fiber ones) are great to protect the playfield from the base on a pounding post, but if the intention is to also cover some or all of the already damaged paint, then a slightly larger diameter fender washer could help, as long as not TOO large that it would interact with the ball itself.

Gotcha. Funny I just typed in washers on PBL and fender washers showed up there too, so apparently others agree. Theirs are hard “indestructible” plastic though. Crappy to have to deal with this. I used a heat gun to smooth out some potential problem areas before I put down the Cliffy’s. Hope I don’t have to use these things too.

https://www.pinballlife.com/clear-petg-fender-washers.html

I know. I was being a wiseass. They can't all be good, you know.

I know you were and I appreciated it, so thought I would be one too by stating the obvious.

After all, what's better than 1 cheesy comment? How about 2?

So I’ve had a few stuck balls on JP, but this was a new one. A little hard to tell, but 3 stuck there.

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I’m dealing with a similar issue though not nearly as big of a chip. Here is what I am planning on doing (others with more experience please let me know if you strongly disagree).

First if you still have pooling in the area I would use Yelobirds ironing method to flatten the clear. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/diy-playfield-post-repair-and-chip-proofing-how-to-all-brands

Then I would use some thin CA glue (superglue) under/on the edge of the chip

Once the glue dries I would apply a layer of clear nail polish to the area

Once that dries I would use acrylic markers to try and paint fill the area as best you can

Then I would add another layer of clear nail polish

Finally I would cut and place a Mylar ring on that post that is larger enough to cover the chipped area

I would probably only resort to using a washer ring over the chip if the chip is so far away from the post where the ball rolls directly over it

Just an update. Stern is replacing the opto board. Their tech support has never seen this type of situation. At least get a known working board in place. And take it from there. Thanks all.

I should be joining the club in a few weeks. This premium would be my first NIB purchase. I’m kinda surprised I’d have to ask this for such an expensive item, but what are the odds everything works fine out of the box? Maybe I’m just reading too many complaints on here and FB but I’m curious to know what people’s NIB experience has been like

I will also be joining this club soon....my 3rd NIB Stern... Munsters LE and Batman Catwoman edition also. Both worked fine out of the box. Only issue I have found is the crane light on Batman did not work. Looked like the 2 wires were never really soldered on... quick easy fix

Game will more then likely work perfect out of box. Ive never had a Stern not work NIB out of 11 of them. Now playfield issues is another story. My advise is put washers under the ball guide rub areas to keep the value up and have fun!

You have just enough time to email Cliffy and get a set of protectors on order, ready to install when the machine arrives in a few weeks. Drop him a note with what you need. http://www.passionforpinball.com/wip.htm has the protectors, then email him with your order: [email protected]

Absolutely. I have a box of mods already waiting.... lol

SUGGESTION: Day-1 - put 1-2 hours aside and get the shooter lane protectors and the upper right flipper post carbon fiber washer installed. Day-1 before you play your second game. 8-)

(See my previous note for what tool you'll need to add that carbon fiber washer to the flipper post without removing the whole flipper chassis! PM if needed).

Requoting my previous:
"That third flipper post is crazy hard to work on, but I found a mechanics open ended standard ignition set of mini wrenches works great. Mine was a Craftsman set (part number 9-44778), but with Sears gone, you will have to find a similar set on Amazon. Those wrenches are thin enough to just slide under the flipper assembly to hold the locknut while you tighten from above (playfield raised). In addition, I added a hard nylon washer (about 14mm diam, .8mm thick) to that post, between the playfield surface and the flat steel washer Stern supplied. I then tightened it up while centering it in the playfield graphic circle.. Took some patience but you really WANT to spend this time as you will damage your playfield if you let that post spin and wiggle and do any movement at all."

I wonder if they changed on different runs, because mine is a t-nut. There should be no need to hold anything from the bottom when tightening.

Mine is not a T nut and the needed to be held from the bottom side I just removed the flipper mechanism not really that big of a deal. You can just drop it down a little and don't need to remove the actual flipper. This way it just bolts back on nice and easy.

Yes they did, original run was just a t-nut but they took a beating and kept coming loose.
I think they changed it on the LE run.

My first JPprem definitely had a lock nut with the build date on that machine was July 21, 2020. I have another JPprem on order now and I am curious what post fastener it will have (build date will be march 2021). I suspect the nylon lock nut will still be there.

FYI Craftsman line now at Lowes

Correct, it was changed from a t-nut to a through post with a nylon lock nut after the first run.
My Nov. 6 2019 premium has the lock nut on the bottom.
I believe everything after the first run of Pros should have the lock nut.

Ahh...that makes sense. Mine is definitely an early run pro with the art still under the posts. Learn something new every day.

So the one I sent a photo of previously completely cracked at all 3 joints. We're talking after a handful of plays whereas the stock one lasted well over a year with lots of removing and screwing back in.

So for the 2nd replacement I bought from Ulek, this time I slightly heated and curved it in the center so that the holes were flush with the connections. I think that might be a must just to keep the stress variable as out of the picture as possible, not sure but I gave it a shot. I feel like the stock one either was already curved or more "elastic" than these ones from Ulek. I already threw it away though so I could be making that up. I also re-added the stock black spacers since to your point leaving them out was stressing the connections even more. Haven't seen any bad t-rex catch behavior so that's good. We'll see how this one holds up physically. I appreciate you and others for chiming in to help. Thank you!!!

This has probably already been shared somewhere in the thread, but I did not have the energy to browse 198 pages, haha. I ordered new backglass and apron from Xianek, a polish guy. I am really excited about these, I think they look super cool. The backglass is actual glass, it's not a translite. What do you guys think?
(btw, I am not affiliated with him in any way, I just think it looked really cool and much better than the original)
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Contact info?

https://xianek.eu/
he is doing really nice work

That apron is pretty bad ass. How much did that run?

He had an offer going, so I payed €300 for backglass, apron and side blades - including shipping to Denmark. I would guess shipping will be more expensive to the US, if that's where you are located.

Ouch...after trying to navigate the site to see some of the work, I finally gave up. His backglasses might be cool (couldn't actually pull any of them up on the site), but he is definitely not a web designer.

I hate it, but if you like it that’s all that matters. It does look nice quality. I think Johnny craps art on this pin is criminally underrated. This is not a movie pin, it’s an original theme based on Jurassic park and the JC art makes more sense to me.

Of the 3 versions, I prefer the premium backglass and cabinet art by far and have no plans on changing mine (well, I already have put a few custom touches on the original and remade it, but I kept the stock art). However, I would be tempted to swap out for sure if I had the Pro, and maybe even the LE.

As hard as people try to say this is not a movie pin, well it is (however loosely it may or may not follow the script). If it weren't, then the likenesses of the characters would not have been used, specific video clips have been emulated, the movie logo would not have been integrated, nor well-known sounds/call outs used.

I'm about to get my first machine ever. What is the purpose of these things, just protection for weak components/areas? The pinball equivalent of a phone case? The website has no indicator of price and that would be a large part of whether it's "worth it", so do you have a rough price range that you know of?

That's pretty much exactly what it is. You're just adding a little protection to places that are known to have issues. As for price, no clue. Probably best to ask him.

Let's agree to disagree. It is definitely not based on the movie but on an alternate series of events that would have happened at about the same time. Think movie reboot/alternate timeline. Trying to shoehorn movie characters(the kids, Malcom, Grant, etc) in this game makes no sense with the actual similar but ALTERNATE adventure going on under the glass. Nedry had plans to steal embryos whether Dr Grant and the others showed up at all or not. This is what would have happened if nobody was visiting the island at that time. Nedry would still wreak havoc on the security system in order to steal the embryos. The folks that run the island are there(Hammond, Nedry, Muldoon, etc) of course. The other visiting characters are not.

The game is awesome and can stand on its own without alternate video/audio trying to make the game into something it is not.

For those people that just can't get passed the original movie then the audio/video clips make it more familiar. It doesn't mean better. I like both original and alternate and switch my SD card once in a while.