Relax fella. No one is coming to take away your precious movie code. I’m saying I think it’s the shits, but you can still use and enjoy the code, ok?

I do enjoy breaking the “rules” by streaming it for people to check out though.

I just got Jurassic Park Premium as my first pinball machine. I'm loving it.

After doing a bunch of reading on the forum I was a little concerned about the quality of a new-in-box pinball machine. Knock on wood, so far so good. I haven't noticed any pooling on the playfield and everything is working.

This could be the beginning of an addictive and expensive hobby.

Great to hear! Yes, only a small percentage of issues right out of the box.

Congrats. One of the first things I did with mine was lower the power settings on trough eject to 150. Then tweaked the slings, pops, and flippers. My auto launch is fine at factory. Now get that 4 way combo down to light up and rip that spinner

$7 set of jungle trees and a $8 raptor adds a lot of visual appeal and scale.

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Do you have a link? Thanks.

Do you have Pinstadium lights as your pin looks nice and bright? I need to order something and I’m leaning that way.

You’re not asking me, but I have them on my JP Prem and they’re a game-changer. They also reduce glare significantly so I did them instead of HD / low glare glass, and killed two birds with the same stone. Definitely made the price easier to swallow

Customer service is top notch too. I bought a second set for Elvira and will likely buy a third for Black Knight once it comes.

I bought the trees and raptor from Michael's. Both should be easily found elsewhere though.

I use them on most of my games, but do not have them installed on JP.

Here's mine w/PinStadiums.

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I’m working on my helicopter and was going to add a light that is connected to the flasher; what voltage are the flashers? 12v?

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Took these pics for my wife so she knew what she was looking for when buying them.

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I know what this deleted post likely said, and I completely agree with you. But I'm gonna listen to Momma's advice and not stoop to anyone's level with a response. But yeah...we're psychically connected on this one.

LOL, I was imagining what it said, and I almost made a post myself but figured I'd go say hi to NJ peeps in the for sale thread instead .

They are low voltage (I use the Comet 6.3v LEDs/strips) to connect to the "flasher" SMD PCB.

Those look very nice, what did you use to keep them in place?

So, my best guess, after much fiddling with & testing is the the opto board is bad. Specifically the opto that senses left face truck. I retouched all solder joints on the board. Same results. Another inconsistent clue. So it works with pf up, I turn off the machine, lower pf, the opto senses left face truck one time, then no good. So, where can I get the board? Or even just the opto? I think pinball life has the correct opto. But I can't locate the board.

Little dabs of hot glue from a glue gun.

I had the exact behavior you are describing but in the t rex mouth. Turned out it was one of the wires connecting the opto board to the connector. It was pinched or shorted. Test all the wires for continuity. You “may” find your problem there.

I bought these in 12V ->
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32889333164.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.7cbf4c4d8KQm52

Usually they work in a wide range of Voltages. Like, I currently have a red 3mm inside the helicopter from lighthouseleds ->
https://lighthouseleds.com/3mm-12v-pre-wired-led-red-ultra-bright-15-000-mcd.html

And as you can see, they work with many voltages. And....lighthouseleds is really just getting them from china...I have both now and they look the exact same but lighthouse sells at a large markup.

Anyway, I am planning on hooking up 2 yellow lights inside the helicopter (tied to the yellow flasher) but have been lazy. Maybe I'll do it today!

You can buy 5V from aliexpress, but if you buy the 12V, you don't have to worry about blowing out the LED if you connect it to a 12V socket later.

Though...I have a multimeter...I should have checked the voltage on the board first but...whatever.

I will check that. Those wires are strung tight together with wire ties! Thanks.

Order a new trough light from lermods since your is on the dimmer side and change your green strip in the back to warm white strip from lermods also. I think with those two strips you will have a much brighter game. Thats whats done to his table. He also has all the GI replaced with 5v comet bulbs. The game pushes 5v to sockets and with the stock 6.4v bulbs Stern uses they dont get pushed to full potential. The 5v don't make a big difference but for $20 for 30 bulbs and about 40 minutes time can change them all out. Most of the bulbs can be pulled from below. Man wish i could just swing over and help you out, soon enough!

The challenge will be that it works when the of is in the up position. If it is intermittent when up you should be able to diagnose. Otherwise it’s going to be a trick. Maybe you’ll get enough clearance when the pf is partially out resting on those rubber feet on the end rail. Obviously do that with power off!

Anyone have this issue on IMDN prem/Le?:

If I end a game with a ball locked in the sarcophagus the ball will then roll under the ramp as usual but will not kick out until I hit the start button triggering a ball search. All switches work fine in gameplay.

Thanks for the helpful reply!

I’ve been looking at this helicopter mechanism; how does it work?

The bottom side of the pin has a magnet but I can’t see how that would detect the rotor rotations... Can someone explain?

I was thinking of a hall-sensor, but that would require 2 magnets...

Need a little help with the truck. It wasn't spinning as freely as it used to so I removed it, cleaned it, applied a touch of lub and reinstalled. Now a truck hit doesn't register. I reseated the little board connection below it, but still it is not registering.

Has anyone else run in to this? Any idea's on a fix?

Thanks, just got back from Michael's. Raptor, trees, cheapie gun low temp glue gun and and pack of glue sticks...$18 w/a 20% coupon.

Continuality is fine.
Yeah. Checking this with the pf down is impossible. It needs to be on. I'm not in the mood for a coin door zapping. Lol. I just need a known working board or opto, and take it from there. So where to get one?

Nice! Post pics when you're finished.

I just noticed 2 dimples at the same spot right in front of the lower flippers. However one of them is chipping. Anyone else experience anything like this? Thanks!

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Looks like dried wax to me.

Make sure you didn’t accidentally install the lower “fan” piece upside down when you put it back together. Easy to do...

If it actually is a wire short, carefully jiggling the wires with the pf up and in test mode should confirm. Continuity, same thing. Must jiggle the wire to know for sure. No need to have the pf lowered to test this.

Flipper alignment holes, and I agree that it looks like dried wax.
Grab a toothpick and clean them out.

EDIT: All Modded Copters are sold. Thank you.

Same.

Anyone here have superbands on there slings? 2.5 feels really tight....

I never use anything other than rubber on slings for this exact reason.

Those are flipper alignment holes. There is dried wax in them. Give it a wipe.

Jiggling the wire doesn't trip it. Plugging it out & in does. That's why I resoldered connections on the opto board. Continuality is good between the connectors. Hopefully it's not a problem at the node board?

I do on a few other games and yeah they can be a bear to get on the flipper. But try this, spray the inside of the band with a little glass cleaner to lube it. Then I start at the flipper tip and use two thumbs to push back and downward on the other end of the superband to get it over the back of the flipper edge.

That's funny. Yeah, just get a toothpick or something and poke down through the holes to remove the wax.

Awesome thanks, that looks like what it was. Still have a little bit way down in there I need to get out but looks much better so far!

A puff of canned air or very thin/stiff wire would probably do the trick.

Ok. If you’ve determined it’s not a wire short, and it is set up properly, than it would have to be the board/opto imo. See pics below. Small gap when fan is out of opto. If not, maybe something bent/mounting issue? Fan is closer to side of opto marked “S” on top. This shouldn’t matter, but last ditch...If all is well here, I’d open a ticket with Stern and/or call them for a board. GL.

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Yeah. At this point I'm going to pursue a replacement board. Thanks all.

Have you reseated the connector where it plugs into node board 9?
I had truck issues for awhile, nothing seemed to help, took the truck apart, cleaned optos, realigned the paddle so it was more even with the optos, reseated the connector at the opto, sometimes it worked sometimes it didn’t, then it stopped working altogether. Looked in the manual and saw the optos plugged into node board 9, reseated it there even though it did not seem loose and it’s been perfect for hundreds of games now.

This. Board is likely not your issue. Do you have a Multimeter (I assumed you did but I was taken aback by your comment above about getting shocked.)