Quoted from Wilberto757:I appreciate the info, thanks! Ill take a look.
I have the modfather shooter and I like it. Who doesn't want a REAL bug?!
(Topic ID: 248582)
Linked Games
Jurassic Park (30th Anniversary LE)
Stern, 2023-
Jurassic Park (Limited Edition)
Stern, 2019
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Jurassic Park (Premium)
Stern, 2019
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Jurassic Park (Pro)
Stern, 2019
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Howell, MI
Quoted from Wilberto757:If all goes well I will be part of the club next week! Had a question though.
Has anyone installed these onto their JP?
They look similar to the official Stern ones but let me know if the quality is comparable.
https://modfatherpinball.com/products/jurassic-park-amber-with-mosquito-shooter-stern
Yes, I purchased one of his shooters and then modified my shooter bracket to include the controlled LEDs. Search for a post of mine in this thread on how to do the mod yourself (or look at schematic below). It's fairly simple if you know this kind of stuff. Would I recommend buying this $100 naked shooter for someone else that wanted a lighted amber shooter? Not if the $150 Stern ready-to-roll kit was available. I did it when Stern was running huge backlogs and the amber shooters and was out-of-stock everywhere. Or if an UNLIT shooter was desireable, then the modfather one if perfect and saves $50
Stern-Shooter-schematic3 (resized).jpgQuoted from Markharris2000:Yes, I purchased one of his shooters and then modified my shooter bracket to include the controlled LEDs. Search for a post of mine in this thread on how to do the mod yourself. It's fairly simple if you know this kind of stuff. Would I recommend buying this $100 naked shooter for someone else that wanted a lighted amber shooter? Not if the $150 Stern ready-to-roll kit was available. I did it when Stern was running huge backlogs and the amber shooters and was out-of-stock everywhere. Or if an UNLIT shooter was desireable, then the modfather one if perfect and saves $50
Can anyone confirm whether the current stern shooter is decent quality? I know there were a lot of complaints that the bug inside was crap. Curious if this was remedied.
Quoted from per3per3:Can anyone confirm whether the current stern shooter is decent quality? I know there were a lot of complaints that the bug inside was crap. Curious if this was remedied.
I think mine looks great. Pics do not do it justice.
FF4CF95B-474A-4BE1-90F9-A34F5005CBD6 (resized).jpegQuoted from Jediturtle:I think mine looks great. Pics do not do it justice. [quoted image]
I think the light is a cool idea, but I really prefer the real bug...
IMG_20210226_163148008 (resized).jpgQuoted from yzfguy:I think the light is a cool idea, but I really prefer the real bug...
[quoted image]
What makes you think its not a real bug?
20210220_142701 (resized).jpgQuoted from J-Freeze:What makes you think its not a real bug?
[quoted image]
I have the first run of the Stern Amber shooter and it’s definitely real. Did they change to a fake bug?
Quoted from yzfguy:I think the light is a cool idea, but I really prefer the real bug...
[quoted image]
Quoted from Green-Machine:I have the first run of the Stern Amber shooter and it’s definitely real. Did they change to a fake bug?
I think all the Stern rods used a real bug, but in the 2nd run I think at least in some it wasn't a crane fly so it didn't have the classic mosquito-y look to it.
So they mostly looked like this in the initial batch of deliveries:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/98#post-5553463
But at least some looked like this in the next batch of deliveries a few months later:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/98#post-5553859
I haven't seen a stern in person, but I thought I read on here somewhere that there was a run where they are a clear flat print of a mosquito. If you look at it from the side, is it 3-d , or flat?
Quoted from yzfguy:I haven't seen a stern in person, but I thought I read on here somewhere that there was a run where they are a clear flat print of a mosquito. If you look at it from the side, is it 3-d , or flat?
It's 3-D. I haven't heard of any that were 2-D prints, but maybe I missed the news on that. I've seen in person both the more mosquito-y crane fly version and the not as mosquito-y looking bug rods. Both were 3-D real bugs. Just looked like different bugs.
Quoted from EaglePin:It's 3-D. I haven't heard of any that were 2-D prints, but maybe I missed the news on that. I've seen in person both the more mosquito-y crane fly version and the not as mosquito-y looking bug rods. Both were 3-D real bugs. Just looked like different bugs.
This is really bugging me 
I'd love to add the lights to mine, as it looks cool how it's integrated into the game, but I don't want to drill into my powdercoated shooter housing.
Quoted from yzfguy:I haven't seen a stern in person, but I thought I read on here somewhere that there was a run where they are a clear flat print of a mosquito. If you look at it from the side, is it 3-d , or flat?
Mine's Stern. They're real bugs. And they're spectacular.
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from beelzeboob:Mine's Stern. They're real bugs. And they're spectacular. [quoted image]
LMAO! Sorry for the confusion, Boob knows his bugs, and I am sorry for the confusion!
The original run of Stern ones definitely had real bugs (crane flies?) in them. It's the newer ones that have the silly fake bugs. They either got in trouble with someone, or ran out of actual bugs.
Quoted from yzfguy:I have the modfather shooter and I like it. Who doesn't want a REAL bug?!
I'm no entomologist, but I'm pretty sure mine is real. I won't be smashing it open to find out though. 
Even if it is fake, it looks awesome and I love it.
Quoted from ctl723:The original run of Stern ones definitely had real bugs (crane flies?) in them. It's the newer ones that have the silly fake bugs. They either got in trouble with someone, or ran out of actual bugs.
Redemption! Thank you
Quoted from ctl723:The original run of Stern ones definitely had real bugs (crane flies?) in them. It's the newer ones that have the silly fake bugs. They either got in trouble with someone, or ran out of actual bugs.
Anyone have a picture of the fake bugs? I've never seen them. I just saw real bugs that sucked...but they were still real.
Quoted from yzfguy:LMAO! Sorry for the confusion, Boob knows his bugs, and I am sorry for the confusion!
We live in Jersey. We know bugs. But it's usually those blue bottle flies that are drawn to dead people and shit.
Mine is a "newer" one (3rd run)
Its definitely a real bug and looks awesome.
The second run had some kind of bug that looked like a piece of wood with wings.
Apparently Crane flies were not "in season" at the time and were hard to come by but demand for the shooter was high so they improvised and for good reason it was not accepted well.
I have never heard of one that had a printed bug in it.
Can anyone confirm what inside leg brackets are on the jp2 premiums. Is stern still using the flimsy 2 hole strip or the more robust bracketing now. Thanks
My history around the amber shooter rod... I've had it replaced 3 times.
1ST: That I waited over a year for looked like the pics in these two posts:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/97#post-5548869
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/98#post-5550562
2ND: Which apparently came from another run looked like this. Also if you look closely, the "amber" wasn't polished properly. It had tons of scratches on it:
PXL_20201016_010059634 (resized).jpg
PXL_20201016_010132761 (resized).jpg
PXL_20201016_010221548 (resized).jpg
3RD: That I believe came from the latest run finally was centered and looked like a mosquito. The only annoying thing is his legs are like tree stumps LOL. But Stern said that's how they all are going to look moving forward so I've settled.:
(One pic here shows the 2nd and 3rd side by side.)
PXL_20201117_235052861 (resized).jpg
PXL_20201118_003301396 (resized).jpg
PXL_20201117_235248734 (resized).jpg
TBH I don't really look at it that closely when playing anyhow but there's definitely room for improvement. The first run rods that people have shared here looked really good. It's too bad they had to change manufacturers. With all that said, the fact that Stern was willing to replace it until I was happy was a great customer service experience.
Finally was able to capture a jp.premium. Not caring about " mods", I didnt even realize that the shooter rod was different, until I turned the pin on in the dark. I have to say, I friggin love the lighted amber shooter rod with the real bug in it. Such a simple design but adds so much to the pin. Really captures the moment. Highly recommend. But as we all know, opinions are like
A..H...s, and we all have one (if we are lucky)
Hello - not sure if this is the right place to put this, this is my first pinball machine and first post on Pinside. I have been having trouble with the back left ramp opto on my JPP (#59) and Stern sent me replacement optos yesterday. While installing them, I had trouble getting the two white plastic connectors separated - I eventually did but one of the wires popped out of the receptacle that runs from the node board, so the optos are not functioning properly (fire like crazy).
Does anyone have any idea how I thread that wire back into the white plastic receptacle? I don't even know what these are called to Google it. Apologies for what I'm sure is a beginner level question - this is my first machine and I have no idea what I'm doing!
opto wiring (resized).pngQuoted from timlah79:Interesting and sorry I didn't see your previous post. I'll follow up if the new Ulek one cracks. I bought 2 for good measure. I will say that once I noticed my stock one had cracked it was the upper left connection. Also I noticed that both my posts were loose at the same time.
Update: Got the new ramp guard plastics from Ulek. They fit just like the original. However, during replacement I ran into some issues that I wanted to share. I've had to remove and reattach the original guard many times during the early days of troubleshooting my T-Rex opto/catching issues. So all the mounts/plastics in this area have been stressed. This is likely a factor in why my protector plastic shattered. One thing that had been puzzling me since the last time I adjusted this was that the upper left screw wouldn't securely fasten. It just slipped in and out. So out of frustration and an inability to easily sneak a nut on the underside, I just used a super long, same size screw and called it good. Upon replacing with the new one yesterday I wanted to fix that "hack job." What I was bummed to find out is that both the ramp plastic itself and the mounting hole for the opto itself had cracked = why I couldn't secure a screw. Fortunately, a long time ago stern sent me a replacement opto assembly that I never needed to use. So I was able to swap the broken piece of the existing opto the unused opto's--it's just a single screw on the PCB and this option seemed easier than running down the wire. That's now secure. I also corrected the looseness of the posts once I discovered that they were actually coming loose from the underside nuts.
What still concerns me is how this is put together. The tiniest of screws holds 4 things together (3 of 4 which are plastic): the ramp guard, the ramp, the metal opto bracket, and the left opto itself (this is what the screw goes into, a tiny plastic mounting hole). So this means that that single, plastic opto hole has to be relied on to hold all of these together. I feel like it's all gonna break again because of this. Shouldn't there be a stronger / not plastic connection here?
Left Opto Broken Mount (resized).jpg
Left Opto Screw and Broken Mount (resized).jpg
Left Ramp Assembly (resized).jpg
Quoted from Thor1776:Hello - not sure if this is the right place to put this, this is my first pinball machine and first post on Pinside. I have been having trouble with the back left ramp opto on my JPP (#59) and Stern sent me replacement optos yesterday. While installing them, I had trouble getting the two white plastic connectors separated - I eventually did but one of the wires popped out of the receptacle that runs from the node board, so the optos are not functioning properly (fire like crazy).
Does anyone have any idea how I thread that wire back into the white plastic receptacle? I don't even know what these are called to Google it. Apologies for what I'm sure is a beginner level question - this is my first machine and I have no idea what I'm doing!
[quoted image]
You basically have to remove the pin the wire came out of, get a new pin and crimp the wire into it, then reinsert into the connector. Not the easiest repair for someone with no repair skills, but the skills needed to fix it are pretty basic to pinball. I cannot tell what size connector and pin from the picture.
Hi all. Please forgive if this is a dumb question, but I've come into possession of some star-post LEDs (circulars disc things, meant to light starposts, which can be wired into the GI -- you know the deal).
However, underneath the playfield on my JP Pro, the starposts aren't exposed, as it were, and there are instead metals caps on them (presumably used to mount them into the playfield). Is it possible to light up the starposts on the JP Pro? Or am I trying to do something impossible given the playfield architecture?
Thanks!
Quoted from ReluctantPin:Hi all. Please forgive if this is a dumb question, but I've come into possession of some star-post LEDs (circulars disc things, meant to light starposts, which can be wired into the GI -- you know the deal).
However, underneath the playfield on my JP Pro, the starposts aren't exposed, as it were, and there are instead metals caps on them (presumably used to mount them into the playfield). Is it possible to light up the starposts on the JP Pro? Or am I trying to do something impossible given the playfield architecture?
Thanks!
They go under the star post, on top of the playfield.
Quoted from yzfguy:They go under the star post, on top of the playfield.
I'm a dummy! Of course! Thanks you
Quoted from ReluctantPin:I'm a dummy! Of course! Thanks you
We've all been there. You will develop a new "pinball sense" have fun!
Melbourne
Quoted from timlah79:Update: Got the new ramp guard plastics from Ulek. They fit just like the original. However, during replacement I ran into some issues that I wanted to share. I've had to remove and reattach the original guard many times during the early days of troubleshooting my T-Rex opto/catching issues. So all the mounts/plastics in this area have been stressed. This is likely a factor in why my protector plastic shattered. One thing that had been puzzling me since the last time I adjusted this was that the upper left screw wouldn't securely fasten. It just slipped in and out. So out of frustration and an inability to easily sneak a nut on the underside, I just used a super long, same size screw and called it good. Upon replacing with the new one yesterday I wanted to fix that "hack job." What I was bummed to find out is that both the ramp plastic itself and the mounting hole for the opto itself had cracked = why I couldn't secure a screw. Fortunately, a long time ago stern sent me a replacement opto assembly that I never needed to use. So I was able to swap the broken piece of the existing opto the unused opto's--it's just a single screw on the PCB and this option seemed easier than running down the wire. That's now secure. I also corrected the looseness of the posts once I discovered that they were actually coming loose from the underside nuts.
What still concerns me is how this is put together. The tiniest of screws holds 4 things together (3 of 4 which are plastic): the ramp guard, the ramp, the metal opto bracket, and the left opto itself (this is what the screw goes into, a tiny plastic mounting hole). So this means that that single, plastic opto hole has to be relied on to hold all of these together. I feel like it's all gonna break again because of this. Shouldn't there be a stronger / not plastic connection here?
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
That was the way B/W did their ramp optos as well - you can buy replacement plastic opto brackets pretty cheap (not sure if the B/W version is compatible with Stern). Typically there is no force being applied to the screw however with JP it holds the plastic airball protector in place so is potentially subjected to more forces (actually The Shadow is the the same and I think that was one of the machines I had to replace the opto bracket on). I've not seen the side break out of the bracket like yours, typically it just strips the thread - my only thoughts would be to ensure that the 3 screws holding the airball plastic in place are never loose as this will put more force on to that bracket
Quoted from Lermods:You basically have to remove the pin the wire came out of, get a new pin and crimp the wire into it, then reinsert into the connector. Not the easiest repair for someone with no repair skills, but the skills needed to fix it are pretty basic to pinball. I cannot tell what size connector and pin from the picture.
ah ok so the wire goes into a pin and the pin goes into the connector. So i'll figure out what size it is, get a new pin and get it back into the connector. I think I can figure that out, just had no idea what any of this was even called. Thanks!
Quoted from Thor1776:ah ok so the wire goes into a pin and the pin goes into the connector. So i'll figure out what size it is, get a new pin and get it back into the connector. I think I can figure that out, just had no idea what any of this was even called. Thanks!
To get the old pin out of the connector, you'll most likely need an extractor tool as the pin will be locked into the connector by little metal tabs that stop it from coming out. Once you know the pin type & size, you'll be able to look for the right extraction tool
Quoted from ReluctantPin:Hi all. Please forgive if this is a dumb question, but I've come into possession of some star-post LEDs (circulars disc things, meant to light starposts, which can be wired into the GI -- you know the deal).
However, underneath the playfield on my JP Pro, the starposts aren't exposed, as it were, and there are instead metals caps on them (presumably used to mount them into the playfield). Is it possible to light up the starposts on the JP Pro? Or am I trying to do something impossible given the playfield architecture?
Thanks!
See my post here where I show how I installed mine: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/171#post-6009586
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:Besides tightening the out lanes a little, are there any other subtle ways to make JP a little easier?
I'd like to say it's just for my 6yr old son who's really starting to love JP, but I'm stagnating quite a bit. After 1000+ games, my high score is ~650 million (which I set in the first month or two of ownership), I haven't seen anything new in the game for a long time and am yet to reach any of the wizard modes. I've tried the "play better" route, but it seems my JP is set up a little hard, or my skills just aren't good enough.
I play it every day and absolutely love it still, especially with Timlah's code, but my improvement just isn't there.
Any ideas?
I'm in the same boat. Highest score is 450mil. Changed out lanes & made it 5 balls.
I still have been unable to get the smart missile inlane to light up. I've done perfect rescues. It doesn't light,. Super spinner lights. Never smart missile. I've read the rules many times. Can someone please explain specifically how to get the lane lit?
The Jeep needs to be facing left to light the smart missile. That’s it basically.
Quoted from Slogan1111:I'm in the same boat. Highest score is 450mil. Changed out lanes & made it 5 balls.
I still have been unable to get the smart missile inlane to light up. I've done perfect rescues. It doesn't light,. Super spinner lights. Never smart missile. I've read the rules many times. Can someone please explain specifically how to get the lane lit?
Quoted from Manny65:To get the old pin out of the connector, you'll most likely need an extractor tool as the pin will be locked into the connector by little metal tabs that stop it from coming out. Once you know the pin type & size, you'll be able to look for the right extraction tool
Thank you for the help, I really appreciate it
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:See my post here where I show how I installed mine: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/171#post-6009586
Hero! Thank you!
Quoted from Slogan1111:I'm in the same boat. Highest score is 450mil. Changed out lanes & made it 5 balls.
I still have been unable to get the smart missile inlane to light up. I've done perfect rescues. It doesn't light,. Super spinner lights. Never smart missile. I've read the rules many times. Can someone please explain specifically how to get the lane lit?
Just to elaborate on mpdpvdpin comment, once you get the required number of rescues it'll light a return lane. If the truck is facing right the super spinner is lit, if facing left the smart missile is lit (this makes the shot through the gap to the target in the pops quite tight). Once enabled, you are able to switch the lit return lane by changing the truck direction. Also you will lose the lit return lane if you drain your ball.
So you need to make all the rescues with the truck in the left position? Or final rescue, the truck needs to be left? I'm just finding it hard to believe that I've not been able to get the inlane lit for smart missile. Thanks.
Quoted from Slogan1111:So you need to make all the rescues with the truck in the left position? Or final rescue, the truck needs to be left? I'm just finding it hard to believe that I've not been able to get the inlane lit for smart missile. Thanks.
No, the position of the truck is irrelevant when collecting rescues
If you ever see super spinner (right return lane) lit, then simply hit the truck to make it face the other direction and the smart missile will now be lit
Ah. That makes easy sense.
Thanks again. I guess never seeing it lit has clouded my thought and comprehensive process.
Well. Inlane super spinner was lit. Changed the truck direction to left. No smart missile lit. Super spinner still lit. Are there settings for smart missile or something!?
Originally posted in the 3d printing thread, figured I might as well post here too:
Looks like I'm probably in the homestretch with the JP grill experiment. Had to make some changes to the magnetic tape locations, but it seems rather solidly attached now. Right side will be done in about 8 hrs. Plus the wife will need to paint
Printed in gray just because that was loaded up in the printer, plus it's easier to see the alignment.
At some point I'll load it up on Thingiverse, but if any JP owners want the STL files ahead of time, just PM me (include an e-mail). Might be 2-3 days before I finally finish.
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
Quoted from Slogan1111:Well. Inlane super spinner was lit. Changed the truck direction to left. No smart missile lit. Super spinner still lit. Are there settings for smart missile or something!?
Switch problem on the truck.
I have always been a fan of the products that Cliff Rinear manufactures. I have probably put them on 20 or more pins. But let me plug them here.
This week I finally installed a set for my premium. Those replacement ramp flaps make a huge difference. Now plunged balls (mechanical or auto) complete the ramp shot probably > 90% of the time. And now I can do a successful Picard maneuver on the left tower ramp from that upper flipper without it tanking out 1/2 the time like it was doing before.
8B0253BE-68AE-4515-B0FE-ACF826513404 (resized).jpegAAD351F7-1F05-44CA-96EB-192C28B41FD7 (resized).jpegQuoted from Slogan1111:Well. Inlane super spinner was lit. Changed the truck direction to left. No smart missile lit. Super spinner still lit. Are there settings for smart missile or something!?
Not sure what would be causing this ...
Does the truck switch work 100%? Worth testing in switch test mode
Any issue with the up-post in the left return lane? The machine might disable the smart missile if it can't put the lane post up
It's worth flicking through the menus to check if there is an option to disable smart missile or the return lane up post
Quoted from Jenk540i:I have always been a fan of the products that Cliff Rinear manufactures. I have probably put them on 20 or more pins. But let me plug them here.
This week I finally installed a set for my premium. Those replacement ramp flaps make a huge difference. Now plunged balls (mechanical or auto) complete the ramp shot probably > 90% of the time. And now I can do a successful Picard maneuver on the left tower ramp from that upper flipper without it tanking out 1/2 the time like it was doing before.
[quoted image][quoted image]
I have a set of these carbon fiber JP pieces for the ramps, but haven't installed them yet. I'm a newbie as this is my first machine, but I haven't figured out the easiest way to get the screws out of the metal ramp entry piece. Did you have to take the wire form off to access the screws? Thanks!
Quoted from gaubster:I have a set of these carbon fiber JP pieces for the ramps, but haven't installed them yet. I'm a newbie as this is my first machine, but I haven't figured out the easiest way to get the screws out of the metal ramp entry piece. Did you have to take the wire form off to access the screws? Thanks!
Pretty sure I got mine out with a long shank screwdriver. Try carefully and slowly. If not, pulling the wire form is not bad at all on this pin. The carbon fiber flaps are great btw!
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