Fort Worth, TX
Quoted from robey99:I’m in. Thx.
gotcha
(Topic ID: 248582)
Linked Games
Jurassic Park (30th Anniversary LE)
Stern, 2023-
Jurassic Park (Limited Edition)
Stern, 2019
-
Jurassic Park (Premium)
Stern, 2019
-
Jurassic Park (Pro)
Stern, 2019
Topic Gallery
Quoted from ProjektPat:I don't get it. The settings say the auto replay is set to 65 mil but I never get the replay
I think you need to set the award for replay to extra ball, if that's what you're looking for.
Melbourne
Quoted from ProjektPat:I don't get it. The settings say the auto replay is set to 65 mil but I never get the replay
The default free credit for Replay is irrelevant when in Free Play mode and so it's quite possibly disabled automatically.
To test, take it out of free play mode, puts some credits on it and then see if you get a replay.
Quoted from palmab03:1200 games in and finally got around to changing the left screw on the side ramp with a flat head screw and man it's just a whole new game. Can't believe I suffered through that for so long.
Had a new unique thing just happen the past 50 games or so, the uppost in front of the control room had been sinking so the ball would get trapped in the hole, and ever since I screwed it back up, now after a trapped control room shot, the ball will instead immediately bounce against the side on the left on its way down so it doesn't slide down the curved left side, so that the ball will 75% of the time end up going down the left outlane. For the previous 1,150 games, the ball would always just roll down along the left side and slowly be able to drop and be controlled by the left flipper.
Needless to say, having the ball drain 75% after a control room shot is no fun, anyone else have this happen or know a way to tweak to fix?
Quoted from Manny65:Typically the ball will go onto the left flipper, some people have reported issues with it going SDTM but not heard of it going down the left outlane. Probably worthwhile checking the PF is still level side-to-side, also what pitch do you have the PF at as this changes where the ball falls? I assume you've checked the up post is flush to the PF - if you manually release a ball at the C target with the up post down, does it bounce off the rail? Does it vary as to whether the ball is more on the left or the right side of the control room lane?
Oh and I'm guessing there is no PF damage at the up post hole or damage to the up post itself?
It looks like it's because the ball has become magnetized, so the ball is drawn towards the metal up post on the way down , moving it away from the left and leaving it to drop straight down into the left outlanes opposed to rolling along the side on the left. So I presume I need to de-magnetize my pinballs, but do they need to stay magnetized for the T-Rex magnets to work?
Quoted from palmab03:It looks like it's because the ball has become magnetized, so the ball is drawn towards the metal up post on the way down , moving it away from the left and leaving it to drop straight down into the left outlanes opposed to rolling along the side on the left. So I presume I need to de-magnetize my pinballs, but do they need to stay magnetized for the T-Rex magnets to work?
Hell no! It's best to use standard carbon-steel balls in machines with magnets, that said you can use chrome balls (these are shinier) however these will become magnetised over a period of time. When ball have become magnetised, it's best to simply replace them
Quoted from palmab03:Holy hell is the post in front of the 3rd flipper a bitch to tighten once it comes loose.
Ya have to drop the flipper assembly to get to that nut under the playfield.
Quoted from yzfguy:I think you need to set the award for replay to extra ball, if that's what you're looking for.
It's been set to extra ball since day one
Quoted from yzfguy:Ya have to drop the flipper assembly to get to that nut under the playfield.
I was able to do it without removing flipper assembly but definitely was not easy.
I need to finally get around to adjusting the launch fork ramp, it's really having issues getting up the starting ramp. Also I checked my machine with a level and it seems like it's properly leveled but the ball just repeatedly gets suck up at the top of the game in the pops area and near the spitter gate. idk
Quoted from ProjektPat:I need to finally get around to adjusting the launch fork ramp, it's really having issues getting up the starting ramp. Also I checked my machine with a level and it seems like it's properly leveled but the ball just repeatedly gets suck up at the top of the game in the pops area and near the spitter gate. idk
That gate is a pretty common hang-up that can be adjusted easily. Rest a ball on it and see exactly how it is getting stuck. Then just bend the wire gate so that doesn't happen. But I would verify that you are level and at the right pitch (at least 6.5, but 7 is probably better for this game) before doing that. Same thing for the raptor pen gate.
Good luck with the ball launch. That can be a bear. Besides any physical tweaking to the forks and ramp itself, you may need to play with the autoplunger power adjustment. It sounds counterintuitive, but in some cases turning down the power helps. But it varies from machine to machine.
Quoted from Jediturtle:That gate is a pretty common hang-up that can be adjusted easily. Rest a ball on it and see exactly how it is getting stuck. Then just bend the wire gate so that doesn't happen. But I would verify that you are level and at the right pitch (at least 6.5, but 7 is probably better for this game) before doing that. Same thing for the raptor pen gate.
Good luck with the ball launch. That can be a bear. Besides any physical tweaking to the forks and ramp itself, you may need to play with the autoplunger power adjustment. It sounds counterintuitive, but in some cases turning down the power helps. But it varies from machine to machine.
It's both the auto and manual plunger
Quoted from ProjektPat:It's both the auto and manual plunger
Yeah...not a surprise with this launch design. Make sure your manual plunger is centered on the ball, both horizontally and vertically. Make sure your plunger rod end rubber is seated all the way down and not worn. Beyond that, experiment with how far you pull the plunger. If you find that it's more successful with a shorter plunge, maybe try a weaker spring. If full plunges barely have the power to make it around, try a stronger one.
Quoted from Lermods:except your trough light barely puts out any light and you've got 10 smds. You can't see the trees for example. the purpose of these is to brighten it up so you can see and highlight the artwork better. Here's what ours looks like with a cool white and just 6 smds.
Your backboard lighting looks decent, but 50smds? How much power are you pulling from that strip? Maybe your dimmer helps with power draw. We can light up that area with less than half (like 20-23) those SMDs in a 15" strip.
[quoted image]
here's a picbof my pro with Lermods trough, backboard led strips in warm white. also added his Trex flasher kit and the Dino egg. all look amazing!
20210126_180106 (resized).jpgQuoted from Lermods:except your trough light barely puts out any light and you've got 10 smds. You can't see the trees for example. the purpose of these is to brighten it up so you can see and highlight the artwork better. Here's what ours looks like with a cool white and just 6 smds.
Your backboard lighting looks decent, but 50smds? How much power are you pulling from that strip? Maybe your dimmer helps with power draw. We can light up that area with less than half (like 20-23) those SMDs in a 15" strip.
[quoted image]
here's a picbof my pro with Lermods trough, backboard led strips in warm white. also added his Trex flasher kit and the Dino egg. all look amazing!
Quoted from Phbooms:Thats strange, mine are frosted warm whites and are stock. Is yours a premium/LE? I just noticed yours looking alot more crisp like cool whites plus the cool white trough light and was wondering what your thoughts were when you switched from warm to cool but sounds like you never had to.
mine are warm white as well, that'd why I went with warm white kits from lermods.
Time is up! Thanks for everyone included in this first run, and I'll be PM'ing you for payment shortly.
Quoted from Jediturtle:That gate is a pretty common hang-up that can be adjusted easily. Rest a ball on it and see exactly how it is getting stuck. Then just bend the wire gate so that doesn't happen. But I would verify that you are level and at the right pitch (at least 6.5, but 7 is probably better for this game) before doing that. Same thing for the raptor pen gate.
Good luck with the ball launch. That can be a bear. Besides any physical tweaking to the forks and ramp itself, you may need to play with the autoplunger power adjustment. It sounds counterintuitive, but in some cases turning down the power helps. But it varies from machine to machine.
I'm on 1.02 code and can't seem to find any settings for an autoplunger power adjustment. Where is it?
or do I need to get on 1.03 code?
I am back and so IN. I PM'ed you as well.
I must have 50 items from you on all my 4 machines that have passed thru my hands. HHAAH. Great work on all items..
Tantrum is a sticker, cards, magnets expert . If you guys want to see some of my items on my machines let me know.
Quoted from Phbooms:Does anybody know how many GI white bulbs the game has in it? Im going to order clear bulbs but stay warm white. I just ordered Lermods backboard and trough light kits for JP(thanks Roger Walters for pics) and SW.
I believe it was 27 but I'm not positive.
Quoted from J-Freeze:I believe it was 27 but I'm not positive.
Thanks you. Ill order 30 just in case.
Now the next question. The bulbs in it are 6.3v but Spike runs at 5v to the GIs im told. So i got recommended 5v bulbs, will they make a difference running 5v bulbs vs the 6.3v bulbs?
Quoted from RumRunner9:I'm on 1.02 code and can't seem to find any settings for an autoplunger power adjustment. Where is it?
or do I need to get on 1.03 code?
Sorry I no longer have my JP, but it was definitely there when I had it, and most other modern games have it. For example, my AIQ has it under Adjustments - Game - #188 Auto Plunger Power. I would assume JP's is around the same place.
Quoted from RPZ:Anyone has a spare matchbox helicopter they’d sell me? Please PM me if you do. thanks!!!
[quoted image]
Great timing, I have 2 and getting one ready to mount and have a spare.
Quoted from Jediturtle:Yeah...not a surprise with this launch design. Make sure your manual plunger is centered on the ball, both horizontally and vertically. Make sure your plunger rod end rubber is seated all the way down and not worn. Beyond that, experiment with how far you pull the plunger. If you find that it's more successful with a shorter plunge, maybe try a weaker spring. If full plunges barely have the power to make it around, try a stronger one.
I was under the impression that it's the left side of the fork that needs to be slightly lifted up
Quoted from ProjektPat:Also I checked my machine with a level and it seems like it's properly leveled but the ball just repeatedly gets suck up at the top of the game in the pops area and near the spitter gate. idk
Have you tried adjusting the spinner gate as suggested https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/185#post-6088169 - it's take less than a minute to fix it
In regards to the ball hang in the pops - I assume it is just to the right of the SM/Chaos gate, is that right? If you place a ball where it gets hungup and then check if the gate was held open a faction more whether this would stop the ball resting in that spot - if so you can try adjusting that gate or the wire. If that doesn't seem to be the issue, post a pic of the ball hang
Quoted from Manny65:Those 3 switches are all on Node 8 Connector CN11 - I'd suggest re-seating the connector. Then go into switch test mode and check left & right return and outlanes, Lite Escape, 2x scoring and the Helipad ramp switches (all of these switches are on the same connector) - let us know how you get on
Thanks @manny65. After a little further inspection (as in following the ground wire throughout most of the board) I discovered that it was slightly disconnected at the CN11 connection near the lockbar. It had wiggled its way out of its home. I would never have thought to check that though without the CN11 reseating tip. Working like new! Thanks again.
I've noticed with sterns that a lot of issues are loose connectors albeit drops targets, lighting etc. I couldn't understand why newish machines were having so many issues when my older bally Williams stood strong. Well I'm not necessarily putting it down to quality issues but I'm guessing most of us have shaker motors. Would it be reasonable to say shaker motors play a major role for our underplayfield connector issues?
Those with non shaker games can tell us if they experience many connector issues or not
Quoted from Manny65:Have you tried adjusting the spinner gate as suggested https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/185#post-6088169 - it's take less than a minute to fix it
In regards to the ball hang in the pops - I assume it is just to the right of the SM/Chaos gate, is that right? If you place a ball where it gets hungup and then check if the gate was held open a faction more whether this would stop the ball resting in that spot - if so you can try adjusting that gate or the wire. If that doesn't seem to be the issue, post a pic of the ball hang
Yeah that's where it's at I'll check it out
Sorry for the delay. Here is the playfield with the right half of the GI switched to Comet clear cool white.
I took a poll in my household and it was evenly split as to which side looks better. Personally I like the cool whites so I am going to finish the swap. I really like the way it pulls out the blue color of the water.
JP1 (resized).jpgJP2 (resized).jpgJP3 (resized).jpgQuoted from Torre:Sorry for the delay. Here is the playfield with the right half of the GI switched to Comet clear cool white.
I took a poll in my household and it was evenly split as to which side looks better. Personally I like the cool whites so I am going to finish the swap. I really like the way it pulls out the blue color of the water.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Agreed! Love how it makes the blues pop!
Quoted from Torre:Sorry for the delay. Here is the playfield with the right half of the GI switched to Comet clear cool white.
I took a poll in my household and it was evenly split as to which side looks better. Personally I like the cool whites so I am going to finish the swap. I really like the way it pulls out the blue color of the water.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Looks great! Thanks for sharing
Quoted from Jediturtle:Sorry I no longer have my JP, but it was definitely there when I had it, and most other modern games have it. For example, my AIQ has it under Adjustments - Game - #188 Auto Plunger Power. I would assume JP's is around the same place.
thanks, I'll go through the settings again.
Lethbridge, AB
Quoted from bossk4hire:Has any added in the rumble motor to a pro? Is it worth it?
Very worth it. The machine shakes with every step the T-Rex takes during the chase mode. It's incredible.
Quoted from bossk4hire:Has any added in the rumble motor to a pro? Is it worth it?
Quoted from Soulstoner:Very worth it. The machine shakes with every step the T-Rex takes during the chase mode. It's incredible.
One of the best if not THE best shaker integration ever. I have shakers in most of my games but in this one it actually makes sense and is more than just haptic feedback.
Quoted from Torre:Sorry for the delay. Here is the playfield with the right half of the GI switched to Comet clear cool white.
I took a poll in my household and it was evenly split as to which side looks better. Personally I like the cool whites so I am going to finish the swap. I really like the way it pulls out the blue color of the water.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Nice! Did you put the 5v bulbs Comet makes for the Spike system in?
Quoted from Phbooms:Nice! Did you put the 5v bulbs Comet makes for the Spike system in?
Actually, I just used their standard bulbs. They work fine but might be a tiny bit dimmer than if you use the 5V bulbs made for Spike.
I used the standard bulbs because I already had them on hand.
Quoted from Torre:Actually, I just used their standard bulbs. They work fine but might be a tiny bit dimmer than if you use the 5V bulbs made for Spike.
I used the standard bulbs because I already had them on hand.
Cool i was just wondering if you could tell difference between 5v and 6.3v? I ordered 5v warm whites yesterday to give them a try along with backboard and trough lights. Ill post a pic and what i think of switching to 5v when they get here.
Quoted from bossk4hire:Has any added in the rumble motor to a pro? Is it worth it?
Have had my pro for a few weeks, shaker is VERY worth it as most have said here.
Quoted from Phbooms:Cool i was just wondering if you could tell difference between 5v and 6.3v? I ordered 5v warm whites yesterday to give them a try along with backboard and trough lights. Ill post a pic and what i think of switching to 5v when they get here.
Ive used the Comet 10 led strips and and haven't noticed any dimming. I soldered these onto the 5volt flasher sockets.
20210128_141955 (resized).jpg20210128_142059 (resized).jpg20210128_142438 (resized).jpgQuoted from Torre:Sorry for the delay. Here is the playfield with the right half of the GI switched to Comet clear cool white.
I took a poll in my household and it was evenly split as to which side looks better. Personally I like the cool whites so I am going to finish the swap. I really like the way it pulls out the blue color of the water.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Those pics are clearly overexposed. Anyway you can filter exposure with something that looks more accurate to in-person view and repost pics?
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Those pics are clearly overexposed. Anyway you can filter exposure with something that looks more accurate to in-person view and repost pics?
IMDN comes with cool white....most people switched to comet sunlight. Sunlight I think looks great.
Quoted from ProjektPat:Have had my pro for a few weeks, shaker is VERY worth it as most have said here.
I like the shaker. I took mine one step down from maximum use. It was going way too crazy on the Trex MB intro lol.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/187#post-6097446
Morning bump. I have 7 commits thus far, and cutoff is in 4-1/2 hours for the initial batch.
I'd like to be in. Please PM me with payment instructions
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