(Topic ID: 248582)

Jurassic Park (Stern 2019) Owners Club. Welcome! To Jurassic park.....

By Scribbles

2 years ago


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#9101 1 year ago
Quoted from ProjektPat:

I don't understand how the hell you're reliably supposed to hit that smart missile

You don’t
But it feels dam good when you do. See my comment above. It’s basically a “F—- yea!” Moment followed by an “F—- you!”

#9102 1 year ago
Quoted from ProjektPat:

I don't understand how the hell you're reliably supposed to hit that smart missile

I hit 8 in a row one night, it can be done.

#9103 1 year ago
Quoted from ProjektPat:

I don't understand how the hell you're reliably supposed to hit that smart missile

Take your time. Control the ball.

Some nights I can hit it a bunch of times. Other nights not once. It's about as tight as it gets for shots.

#9104 1 year ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

This is pretty much my go to as well but I’m gonna edit a few things that commonly happens with me:
Most games this is what I try to do
2 skill shots and then start 1st Paddock.
<during 1st paddock the ball will head for the inlane, double bounce between the rubbers, and fly out the outlane>
Start 2nd paddock and start TRex MB.
Once done start next paddock.
<miss tower ramp, hit a few rubbers, hit a few sling shots, rocket through the left outlane, no escape because it did this previously 30 seconds prior>
Start Raptor if not earned through SM
<getting raptor setup typically ends in an outlane drain or 2>
Play both CR modes, I usually play VA first as it’s only 6 shots and you are working on qualifying your next paddock, also collecting fossils to get your 10x pteranodon qualified.
If you have earned your theirs CR play it.
<shooting CR or Helipad will usually cause a drain. So many shots focus on this>
Play SCR.
Play out the rest of the paddocks.
<I will work on setting the game up on 10-ball to achieve this>

All joking aside I got a GC for first time in a few weeks last night at around 1.4 bil and a 370mil’ish VC. My initial thought to my game was “F yea!” Followed by an “F you!” - see, The problem I’m having with enjoying the game compared to my other pins, is it’s a survival game much like TWD. And the moments come in the mid-end game modes (minus the T-Rex super JP , that’s freakin cool as hell). So it takes a lot of frustration and survival to get to those moments. All in all, I probably just need to play better, but the game can be frustrating as hell which takes away the fun-positive moments.

I agree on that comparison to TWD. Both games kick my ass on a regular basis. I feel like you really have to be "on" with your shots to enjoy JP2. There's just no room for error because your shots need to be so precise. The slings and outlanes are pretty unforgiving too. Definitely more F you moments than F yeah for me, but it does make it really satisfying when you do!

#9105 1 year ago
Quoted from newpinbin:

The same one to start the missile?

Yes but unlike the Smart Missile, CHAOS will be lit regardless of which way the truck is facing

#9106 1 year ago
Quoted from MikeS:

I agree on that comparison to TWD. Both games kick my ass on a regular basis. I feel like you really have to be "on" with your shots to enjoy JP2. There's just no room for error because your shots need to be so precise. The slings and outlanes are pretty unforgiving too. Definitely more F you moments than F yeah for me, but it does make it really satisfying when you do!

LMAO yep couldn't have said it better myself.

I struggle to get above 500M and then out of the blue get 2.1B, that game I hit the SM 3 times cleared the T-Rex and Raptor paddocks ... if only I could have those games more often but that's pinball and why we want to have "just one more game"

#9107 1 year ago
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:

Also...on my game the sling power was out of control, if you notice that the slings are kicking balls to drain on a regular basis just dial back the power in the menu.

I had to do this and I am playing much better now. I was getting slaughtered on the outlanes.

#9108 1 year ago
Quoted from woody76:

I had to do this and I am playing much better now. I was getting slaughtered on the outlanes.

Yes I'm considering doing this on mine - what setting did you drop it to?

#9109 1 year ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Yes I'm considering doing this on mine - what setting did you drop it to?

I just did the same. Dropped the sling to 23. Seems to be less aggressive on the famed Stern "sling, sling, outlane"

#9110 1 year ago

Is the trex ramp something that can actually be hit regularly with the upper right flipper? I know I did it once or twice but not intentionally

#9111 1 year ago
Quoted from Midwest77:

I just did the same. Dropped the sling to 23. Seems to be less aggressive on the famed Stern "sling, sling, outlane"

same here, got sick of that sling,sling, outlane actions.

#9112 1 year ago
Quoted from Kenswift:

Is the trex ramp something that can actually be hit regularly with the upper right flipper? I know I did it once or twice but not intentionally

I don’t think so. Really makes more sense to feed the flippers by getting consistent on the Tower shot.

#9113 1 year ago

I'm not having issues with the sling constantly draining the ball but strangely enough I am having issues with the auto launcher not launching the ball up the helipad ramp

#9114 1 year ago

I have a 2 month old JP Premium. The Control room “C” post, when down, is not at all flush with the play field, it is recessed quite a bit. I have had 3-4 instances where a slow moving ball stops on the post hole and won’t move. I don’t think that there is a magnet there, maybe, but nudging/shaking will not dislodge the ball. Last night it happened and trying to unseat the ball I tilted the machine, and I’ve removed the tilt bob. The ball did not move. Then the machine goes into ball search mode, the Control room post shoots up and the ball slams against the glass. I’m not sure if it can break the glass, but it is not something I want to find out.

Is there a way to raise the post so this does not happen?

#9115 1 year ago
Quoted from lockeness:

I have a 2 month old JP Premium. The Control room “C” post, when down, is not at all flush with the play field, it is recessed quite a bit. I have had 3-4 instances where a slow moving ball stops on the post hole and won’t move. I don’t think that there is a magnet there, maybe, but nudging/shaking will not dislodge the ball. Last night it happened and trying to unseat the ball I tilted the machine, and I’ve removed the tilt bob. The ball did not move. Then the machine goes into ball search mode, the Control room post shoots up and the ball slams against the glass. I’m not sure if it can break the glass, but it is not something I want to find out.
Is there a way to raise the post so this does not happen?

It's covered quite a few times in the thread if you search for post adjustment. Lift the playfield. There is an adjustment screw under the post mech that let's you adjust the height.

#9116 1 year ago

Hey guys, just joined the club this week with a Premium. I feel like the game needs a lot of tweaking, but I'm not sure how everything is supposed to flow. Can someone answer a few questions, mainly on the ball paths?

If I short plunge, the ball hits a rubber ring at the entrance to the helipad lane and bounces out of control, sort of to the left flipper. I would assume this is supposed to return to the right flipper? Isn't one of the secret skill shots to the control room?

My upper flipper seems aligned too low. The tip is to the right of the post. Not only does this take up space in the helipad lane, but balls coming down the right orbit hit the post and bounce wildly. I would assume balls coming down the right orbit should return to the lower right flipper?

T-Rex eats the ball MAYBE 25% of the time, at most. Is this adjustable to make more reliable?

Shots to the spinner just sorta die at the top of the orbit and dribble into the pops. Is this normal or is the ball supposed to continue around to the right orbit? It looks like there is a lift post up there. I'm guessing this is to alter full or partial orbits, but I don't know what is normal behavior.

Post in the raptor pit sits way low and balls get stuck, but I'm aware there is an adjustment under the playfield for that.

All of my flippers seem too low, they're all more than 180 degrees from the ball guide. Is this recommended due to shot placement, or should I align them all to be in line with the ball guides?

I know there is more, but that should be enough to get me started. I have almost no experience on this game, but it seems pretty fun so far. I suck at it royally, but I'm really looking forward to learning the game once I get things dialed in.

Thanks for any guidance.

#9117 1 year ago
Quoted from lockeness:

I have a 2 month old JP Premium. The Control room “C” post, when down, is not at all flush with the play field, it is recessed quite a bit. I have had 3-4 instances where a slow moving ball stops on the post hole and won’t move. I don’t think that there is a magnet there, maybe, but nudging/shaking will not dislodge the ball. Last night it happened and trying to unseat the ball I tilted the machine, and I’ve removed the tilt bob. The ball did not move. Then the machine goes into ball search mode, the Control room post shoots up and the ball slams against the glass. I’m not sure if it can break the glass, but it is not something I want to find out.
Is there a way to raise the post so this does not happen?

Here's this post from just 2 pages back (I bet your locknut is loose): https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/181#post-6068332

#9118 1 year ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

If I short plunge, the ball hits a rubber ring at the entrance to the helipad lane and bounces out of control, sort of to the left flipper. I would assume this is supposed to return to the right flipper? Isn't one of the secret skill shots to the control room?

Ball will fall to the left flipper and there are other secret skill shots to be made from here. Yes, control room is a secret skill shot (which I've achieved multiple times). You have plenty of time to quickly pass the ball to the right flipper and make the C shot.

Quoted from Cheeks:

My upper flipper seems aligned too low. The tip is to the right of the post. Not only does this take up space in the helipad lane, but balls coming down the right orbit hit the post and bounce wildly. I would assume balls coming down the right orbit should return to the lower right flipper?

This has been covered ad nauseam in this thread. Please do some in-thread searching and you'll find plenty of explanations and photos of the proper alignment for all flippers.

Quoted from Cheeks:

T-Rex eats the ball MAYBE 25% of the time, at most. Is this adjustable to make more reliable?

You can make mechanical adjustments for alignment using the screws on the back of the backboard (covered in this thread), as well as settings adjustments for offset in the settings. I was able to tweak mine just using the settings menu, and my T-Rex is significantly more reliable than before. However, you should never expect 100%.

Quoted from Cheeks:

Shots to the spinner just sorta die at the top of the orbit and dribble into the pops. Is this normal or is the ball supposed to continue around to the right orbit? It looks like there is a lift post up there. I'm guessing this is to alter full or partial orbits, but I don't know what is normal behavior.

You can make the spinner shot from both flippers, and the ball path will vary by design. For me, typically when I hit the spinner from the left flipper the ball falls into the pops, and when I hit it from the right spinner it makes the loop most of the time. There is a post to the left of the spinner orbit at top. I'm not sure under what conditions the post is activated (someone else will have to provide input on this one), but when it is you cannot make the upper left loop using the upper flipper.

Quoted from Cheeks:

Post in the raptor pit sits way low and balls get stuck, but I'm aware there is an adjustment under the playfield for that.

Lift the playfield, adjust the post height, tighten the locknut.

Quoted from Cheeks:

All of my flippers seem too low, they're all more than 180 degrees from the ball guide. Is this recommended due to shot placement, or should I align them all to be in line with the ball guides?

Again, flipper alignment has been covered ad nauseam. Use the search feature in the thread.

#9119 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Ball will fall to the left flipper and there are other secret skill shots to be made from here. Yes, control room is a secret skill shot (which I've achieved multiple times). You have plenty of time to quickly pass the ball to the right flipper and make the C shot.

This has been covered ad nauseam in this thread. Please do some in-thread searching and you'll find plenty of explanations and photos of the proper alignment for all flippers.

You can make mechanical adjustments for alignment using the screws on the back of the backboard (covered in this thread), as well as settings adjustments for offset in the settings. I was able to tweak mine just using the settings menu, and my T-Rex is significantly more reliable than before. However, you should never expect 100%.

You can make the spinner shot from both flippers, and the ball path will vary by design. For me, typically when I hit the spinner from the left flipper the ball falls into the pops, and when I hit it from the right spinner it makes the loop most of the time.
Post in the raptor pit sits way low and balls get stuck, but I'm aware there is an adjustment under the playfield for that.

Again, flipper alignment has been covered ad nauseam . Use the search feature in the thread.

All this. (Funny I was you). But net on your flippers- sounds like they are perfect. Should be floppy.

#9120 1 year ago
Quoted from 2manyhobbies:

Dilophosaurus just added
[quoted image]
If interested search internet for: Jurassic Park Dilophosaurus 6-Inch Scale Amber Collection Action Figure. I got mine on Ebay off a seller out of East Rochester, NY for $40 plus snail mail shipping, which took like 3 weeks. But they still have 6 left. Man toy collectors must cringe every time we hack one of these things up LOL
[quoted image]
Step 1 Cut her down, As you can see I did this just behind the front arms, I think she screamed a little when I did this.
[quoted image]
This was what was left after the surgery
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Then used a 1/16" drill bit and drilled on each side of the spin, there is a seam there so don't drill the center, then hooked some music wire in there.
[quoted image]
Then formed a hook, it is about 1", that will hook on one screw on the back wall
[quoted image]
Loosen screw a couple of turns so you can hook her into place
[quoted image]
Then tighten her down
[quoted image]
Adjust the hands over the sign then it is a matter of if you like her with Spit
[quoted image]
Or with out Spit. I think I like her with out spit
[quoted image]
A full view
[quoted image]
And now I am trying to decide where to put this sign, maybe cut down a bit and stick on the back wall just to the right of her but not sure yet.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

I love your setup, where'd you get the other dino toys and how'd you set them up?

#9121 1 year ago

Here is the best price delivered I could find on the Amber Collection Dilophosaurus. Be sure to pick the correct shipping when ordering since "Media Mail" is the default, but you cannot ship via this method per their bold type instructions (you must pick Priority Mail or greater). For me, total shipped with sales tax (which they shouldn't actually have charged) ended up being $46.08.

https://collectorcave.shop/products/jurassic-park-amber-collection-dilophosaurus-6-inch-scale-action-figure
BTW: Not sure why, but looks like Mattel stuck the East Dock sign in a pile of dinosaur droppings.

pasted_image (resized).png
#9122 1 year ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

It's covered quite a few times in the thread if you search for post adjustment. Lift the playfield. There is an adjustment screw under the post mech that let's you adjust the height.

Thanks, I searched but obviously not very well...

#9123 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Here is the best price delivered I could find on the Amber Collection Dilophosaurus. Be sure to pick the correct shipping when ordering since "Media Mail" is the default, but you cannot ship via this method per their bold type instructions (you must pick Priority Mail or greater). For me, total shipped with sales tax (which they shouldn't actually have charged) ended up being $46.08.
https://collectorcave.shop/products/jurassic-park-amber-collection-dilophosaurus-6-inch-scale-action-figure
BTW: Not sure why, but looks like Mattel stuck the East Dock sign in a pile of dinosaur droppings.
[quoted image]

It's mud from the scene in the movie. Remember when Nedry is trying to make it to the dock it is pouring rain.

#9124 1 year ago
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

It's mud from the scene in the movie. Remember when Nedry is trying to make it to the dock it is pouring rain.

I know it's mud, but tell me it doesn't look like a pile of runny shiny dino poop. Besides in the movie the sign wasn't stuck in a big pile of mud, rather it was on the fairly mudless flat ground at the fork in the road.
pasted_image (resized).png

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#9125 1 year ago

At some point in the near future, I will read all 9124 posts in this topic...my Jurassic Park Pro (also my first owned PIN!) arrived yesterday...the wife loves it except I'm better than her. She just needs practice.

#9126 1 year ago
Quoted from ProjektPat:

I'm not having issues with the sling constantly draining the ball but strangely enough I am having issues with the auto launcher not launching the ball up the helipad ramp

Does the manual plunger make the helipad ramp?

You may need to lift the left fork in the shooter lane - see the keypost on the Prem/LE thread https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/28#post-5255575

Alternatively you may need to adjust the alignment of the autoplunger with the ball - see this post https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/120#post-5758762

#9127 1 year ago
Quoted from ProjektPat:

I love your setup, where'd you get the other dino toys and how'd you set them up?

Below is a link to my original post on the Brontosaurus, including links where you can buy ect..Also has a link for some music wire to mount the Bronto and the Pteranodon.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/167#post-5985296

Search: Papo Dinosaur Pteranodon Prehistoric figure. I think this one was cheap, $12, but mine came from Germany, I believe, ordered off Amazon but only took a week or so to come in.
I am sure somewhere in this group someone showed a step by step "how to mount the Pteranodon" , but with mine I just drilled a 1/16" hole up the poop shoot and super glued into place. Then formed the wire in a acre and mounted to the front post on the spiral ramp just left of the ramp.
Pteranodon (resized).JPG

#9128 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Here is the best price delivered I could find on the Amber Collection Dilophosaurus. Be sure to pick the correct shipping when ordering since "Media Mail" is the default, but you cannot ship via this method per their bold type instructions (you must pick Priority Mail or greater). For me, total shipped with sales tax (which they shouldn't actually have charged) ended up being $46.08.
https://collectorcave.shop/products/jurassic-park-amber-collection-dilophosaurus-6-inch-scale-action-figure
BTW: Not sure why, but looks like Mattel stuck the East Dock sign in a pile of dinosaur droppings.
[quoted image]

Yeah I threw that "Sht" away as they say LOL.

I decided to mount my sign on the back wall behind her a bit, since the Nerdy scene where he spins the sign normally comes up, assuming you have the "Tim code", when you hit the back upper loop. Cool part is the directional sign will vibrate and move positions a little as you play the game. Wish I could get it to spin on que when that scene pops up
PXL_20210115_002452832 (resized).jpg

#9129 1 year ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

Hey guys, just joined the club this week with a Premium. I feel like the game needs a lot of tweaking, but I'm not sure how everything is supposed to flow. Can someone answer a few questions, mainly on the ball paths?
If I short plunge, the ball hits a rubber ring at the entrance to the helipad lane and bounces out of control, sort of to the left flipper. I would assume this is supposed to return to the right flipper? Isn't one of the secret skill shots to the control room?
My upper flipper seems aligned too low. The tip is to the right of the post. Not only does this take up space in the helipad lane, but balls coming down the right orbit hit the post and bounce wildly. I would assume balls coming down the right orbit should return to the lower right flipper?
T-Rex eats the ball MAYBE 25% of the time, at most. Is this adjustable to make more reliable?
Shots to the spinner just sorta die at the top of the orbit and dribble into the pops. Is this normal or is the ball supposed to continue around to the right orbit? It looks like there is a lift post up there. I'm guessing this is to alter full or partial orbits, but I don't know what is normal behavior.
Post in the raptor pit sits way low and balls get stuck, but I'm aware there is an adjustment under the playfield for that.
All of my flippers seem too low, they're all more than 180 degrees from the ball guide. Is this recommended due to shot placement, or should I align them all to be in line with the ball guides?
I know there is more, but that should be enough to get me started. I have almost no experience on this game, but it seems pretty fun so far. I suck at it royally, but I'm really looking forward to learning the game once I get things dialed in.
Thanks for any guidance.

Welcome Cheeks to THE CLUB!!

I'll add a few comments to Mr_Tantrum post

Keith designed the game to be played at 7 degrees (the PF pitch not the temperature - haha) and my advice is to start there. Some people have found lowering the pitch marginally better for them but I think most of us are at 7.

The lower flippers align the centre of the bat to the PF dots, Keith designed them deliberately droopy to make the C and Helipad shots - Keith commented that Steve Ritchie likes having his flippers at 180 degrees to the ball guide which helps with backhands but Keith prefers to have wider shots and use more of the PF.

The front of the upper flipper plastic bat (not the rubber) should be aligned to the dot. It exposes the post to shots coming out of the orbit, which if you don't flip the ball will hit and avoids doing a centre drain. The pic shows this flipper sitting a bit back from the dot and needs to be adjusted.

JP Upper Flipper (resized).jpg

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

There is a post to the left of the spinner orbit at top. I'm not sure under what conditions the post is activated (someone else will have to provide input on this one), but when it is you cannot make the upper left loop using the upper flipper.

The direction the truck is facing determines whether the orbit up-post will divert the ball to the pops from a right orbit shot. If the truck is facing left, the ball will do the full orbit (assuming the shot has enough power); while if facing right, the post will come up and divert the ball into the pops

#9130 1 year ago

I pity the fool that doesn't install custom T-molding!
pasted_image (resized).png

Seriously, my order of 3/4" yellow t-molding from http://t-molding.com just arrived today, so I was excited to get it installed. This is my first pin that utilizes t-molding, and I wanted to spruce up the black that came standard on my premium. For my setup, yellow was the obvious choice, but there are a variety of colors to choose from. I ordered the minimum 20 feet of t-molding as this was enough to do one pin with some extra. Actually, you need about 6-1/2 to 7 feet of t-molding per side (this allows for several inches extra when installing).

Given this was the first time I've ever done any t-molding work, I thought I'd document and share the process. To begin with, on the DIY difficulty scale from 1 to 10, I would put this at a 3. You need to know a couple of techniques, have the right tools, and be aware of a couple of things to achieve the perfect t-molding install.

1 - While you may choose to use a different tool for cutting, the tools I used included flush cutters and a rubber mallet (I put tape over the ends so I'd be hitting the t-molding with a clean surface).
IMG_5344 (resized).JPG

2 - Begin by removing the old t-molding from both sides. In my case this was easily done, so I was careful not to damage the molding in case I ever wanted to re-install it for whatever reason. Start by finding the joint located in the middle of the underside either sideboard. Just using your hands (no tools required), pull down on the edges of the t-molding to pull it away from the groove. Once the end is free, simply follow this process around the full perimeter until the t-molding is fully removed. Be careful and take your time when doing this so as not to damage the board. You should pull the t-molding away from the board in a perpendicular fashion. Also, when removing the current molding, be careful not to let it fall and kink or you will create a bad looking spot in the plastic and will not want to reuse it.
IMG_5341 (resized).JPG
IMG_5339 (resized).JPG

3 - On a table or the floor, stretch out the new t-molding strip inline with the old so that you know how long of a piece to cut off. I added about 6" extra just in case I messed up an end and so that I could cut the finished in exactly to the correct length. Use your cutters to trim off the new length being mindful of creating a straight clean cut. Again, align one of the ends of your new piece with an old piece and notice the position of the first notch a few inches from the end. Use your cutters and cut a parallelogram shaped notch in the same location (see next bullet).

4 - To install, position the t-molding on the underside edge so that the notch aligns with the front bottom corner. Use your rubber mallet to tap the t-molding fully and evenly into the slot. Again, "tap" don't pound or hit forcefully. You want to gently tap the full length of the molding to ensure that it is fully seated in the groove and has an even and consistent feel as your run your hand over the length of it. To round the corner, tap the t-molding with the hammer in one hand as you stretch it around the corner with the other. Continue to insert and tap the t-molding in a little at a time as you work around the entire board (i.e. don't insert the t-molding partially all the way around then tap as you will create kinks and high spots doing it this way). As you approach a corner, assess where the groove position will need to be, user your cutters to create it, then proceed until you reach the starting point of the t-molding at bottom-center.
IMG_5338 (resized).JPG
IMG_5342 (resized).JPG

5 - When you get to the end, fully tap the t-molding in and overlap with the starting point. Now user your cutters to trim the plastic in the exact spot needed so as to create a joint that butts together without a gap.

IMG_5343 (resized).JPG

6 - Repeat the same process on the other side, then stand back and admire the custom look of your new t-molding installation.
IMG_5345 (resized).JPG
IMG_5346 (resized).JPG
IMG_5347 (resized).JPG
IMG_5348 (resized).JPG
IMG_5350 (resized).JPG

Remeber - just "tap it in"!

#9131 1 year ago

Thanks for the info. I checked the key posts and didn't see any info tagged, so I asked my questions. I suppose I should have searched the thread first.

Apparently not as much of my game is out of alignment as I thought. However, the upper flipper was actually WAY off. The dot was just outside the flipper rubber.

I want to add some of the mods you guys have. I've found the jeep, but I'm not having as much success with the helicopter. Is this just a hit or miss thing checking ebay?

Also, my game came with the Retro Refurb artblades (https://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/jurassic-park-stern-premium-pinball-sideblades/) but I think I prefer the Tilt Graphic ones (https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/product-page/jurassic-park-stern-gameblades). How do the Tilt ones look in person? Anyone who's seen both have an opinion? Does anyone have any experience removing art blades, specifically the Retro Refurb ones? Is it even worth me considering? Don't really want to start peeling them off if these things are really stuck on there.

#9132 1 year ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

Thanks for the info. I checked the key posts and didn't see any info tagged, so I asked my questions. I suppose I should have searched the thread first.
Apparently not as much of my game is out of alignment as I thought. However, the upper flipper was actually WAY off. The dot was just outside the flipper rubber.
I want to add some of the mods you guys have. I've found the jeep, but I'm not having as much success with the helicopter. Is this just a hit or miss thing checking ebay?
Also, my game came with the Retro Refurb artblades (https://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/jurassic-park-stern-premium-pinball-sideblades/) but I think I prefer the Tilt Graphic ones (https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/product-page/jurassic-park-stern-gameblades). How do the Tilt ones look in person? Anyone who's seen both have an opinion? Does anyone have any experience removing art blades, specifically the Retro Refurb ones? Is it even worth me considering? Don't really want to start peeling them off if these things are really stuck on there.

Tilt graphics were my choice, and I think they look fantastic: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/164#post-5971429

Helicopters are getting harder and harder to find as there has been a recent run on them from the new batch of owners. You can either find them used occasionally, or you'll have to buy a set and just use the chopper from it. They are part of Jurassic World Mission Force sets that either come with a chopper and dino transport or a bigger set with other pieces.

#9133 1 year ago

OK so another stupid post. My boy and I are trying to figure out a mystery. He was having a ho hum game, say around 90 million or so, then he gets chaos multiball, six balls get going, amd I think pteranodon was active as well. He ends that ball and his score was around 570 million. He racked up approximately 480 million during that multiball. Now for the life of us were trying to figure out what the eff happened. Cause every other chaos multiball is pitiful- say 12 million.

Any ideas what happened?

#9134 1 year ago

Prob had super spinner running, few jackpots/ super jacks, he definitely had at least three add-a-balls from the pops, might have been in a paddock...just sounds like a real good multiball sesh.

Quoted from holminone:

OK so another stupid post. My boy and I are trying to figure out a mystery. He was having a ho hum game, say around 90 million or so, then he gets chaos multiball, six balls get going, amd I think pteranodon was active as well. He ends that ball and his score was around 570 million. He racked up approximately 480 million during that multiball. Now for the life of us were trying to figure out what the eff happened. Cause every other chaos multiball is pitiful- say 12 million.
Any ideas what happened?

#9135 1 year ago
Quoted from holminone:

OK so another stupid post. My boy and I are trying to figure out a mystery. He was having a ho hum game, say around 90 million or so, then he gets chaos multiball, six balls get going, amd I think pteranodon was active as well. He ends that ball and his score was around 570 million. He racked up approximately 480 million during that multiball. Now for the life of us were trying to figure out what the eff happened. Cause every other chaos multiball is pitiful- say 12 million.
Any ideas what happened?

Did he collect the Spinosaurus fossil? In which case he got through the 3 phases of Chaos (see below) and got the Super Jackpot Hurry Up

• Phase 1: Jackpots will be lit on all shots on one half of the playfield, depending on the direction of the truck, and each jackpot shot you hit will unlight. Hit the truck to switch sides and light all the other side’s jackpots – even the shots you’d previously hit. The more jackpots you collect on one side before switching, the more they’re worth. The first Chaos Super Jackpot is lit at the pops standup after collecting 1 Jackpot, with 2 Jackpots required to light the second and third Supers and 3 Jackpots to light the fourth and fifth Supers. Each SJP awards the sum of jackpots collected between each SJP and awards one letter in CHAOS. CHAOS status is shown on the display and as solidly lit CHAOS inserts on PF. Spell CHAOS to advance to Phase 2. Similar to Iron Maiden’s Trooper MB, you can choose to keep shooting more lit jackpots – even after a SJP is lit – to increase your lit SJP value.
• Phase 2: All CHAOS shots are lit for one jackpot each, and can be shot in any order. Each letter is worth the base value earned when collecting that letter’s SJP in phase 1, thus, “S” is worth the most. Example: if you collected the “S” in Phase 1 at 30M awarded, but with 2x PF running, then the “S” jackpot is worth 15M base value. So if 2x PF is still running, and you collect the “S” jackpot, your awarded value will be 30M, and not 60M.
• Phase 3: The pop bumper target will be lit to score the Chaos Hurry-Up, worth the combined value of all Jackpots collected during Phase 2. If the Truck is facing the left, this value will be doubled. Collecting this Hurry-Up will award you with a Fossil. (Victory laps after this?)

Also if he built up the Pteranodon Attack multiplier before cashing it in that would simply do it by itself - some of the guys have cashed in up to 6B for this alone
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/130#post-5806752
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/121#post-5762416

#9136 1 year ago

Been trying to lock in the best hurry up for Feed Trex and think I did it by completely the JP build on the upper loop. Anyone see 7 million?

44DCA5DF-833E-431D-8990-C199C12BE2FB (resized).jpeg
#9137 1 year ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

Been trying to lock in the best hurry up for Feed Trex and think I did it by completely the JP build on the upper loop. Anyone see 7 million?
[quoted image]

6,750,000 is my highest as well. Curious to see if anyone has gotten over 7 million though.

#9138 1 year ago

6 BILLION? In one shot? The #1 score logged on pinside is like 3 Billion.

Quoted from Manny65:

Did he collect the Spinosaurus fossil? In which case he got through the 3 phases of Chaos (see below) and got the Super Jackpot Hurry Up
• Phase 1: Jackpots will be lit on all shots on one half of the playfield, depending on the direction of the truck, and each jackpot shot you hit will unlight. Hit the truck to switch sides and light all the other side’s jackpots – even the shots you’d previously hit. The more jackpots you collect on one side before switching, the more they’re worth. The first Chaos Super Jackpot is lit at the pops standup after collecting 1 Jackpot, with 2 Jackpots required to light the second and third Supers and 3 Jackpots to light the fourth and fifth Supers. Each SJP awards the sum of jackpots collected between each SJP and awards one letter in CHAOS. CHAOS status is shown on the display and as solidly lit CHAOS inserts on PF. Spell CHAOS to advance to Phase 2. Similar to Iron Maiden’s Trooper MB, you can choose to keep shooting more lit jackpots – even after a SJP is lit – to increase your lit SJP value.
• Phase 2: All CHAOS shots are lit for one jackpot each, and can be shot in any order. Each letter is worth the base value earned when collecting that letter’s SJP in phase 1, thus, “S” is worth the most. Example: if you collected the “S” in Phase 1 at 30M awarded, but with 2x PF running, then the “S” jackpot is worth 15M base value. So if 2x PF is still running, and you collect the “S” jackpot, your awarded value will be 30M, and not 60M.
• Phase 3: The pop bumper target will be lit to score the Chaos Hurry-Up, worth the combined value of all Jackpots collected during Phase 2. If the Truck is facing the left, this value will be doubled. Collecting this Hurry-Up will award you with a Fossil. (Victory laps after this?)
Also if he built up the Pteranodon Attack multiplier before cashing it in that would simply do it by itself - some of the guys have cashed in up to 6B for this alone
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/130#post-5806752
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/121#post-5762416

#9139 1 year ago
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:

6 BILLION? In one shot? The #1 score logged on pinside is like 3 Billion.

Yep but not everyone posts they're high scores on Pinside

#9140 1 year ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

Been trying to lock in the best hurry up for Feed Trex and think I did it by completely the JP build on the upper loop. Anyone see 7 million?
[quoted image]

The rules say that the max is 6M ...

#9141 1 year ago

I get that...but still. Damn, Guess I should consider the pteranodon method. I’ve never even thought about it.

Quoted from Manny65:

Yep but not everyone posts they're high scores on Pinside

#9142 1 year ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

I don’t think so. Really makes more sense to feed the flippers by getting consistent on the Tower shot.

Second this, although I have hit the ramp from that flipper many times accidentally going for the upper loop and missing. Every single time I've tried to hit it on purpose...fail. it's a gift when it happens most times I guess. Pinball wierdness.

#9143 1 year ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

Thanks for the info. I checked the key posts and didn't see any info tagged, so I asked my questions. I suppose I should have searched the thread first.
Apparently not as much of my game is out of alignment as I thought. However, the upper flipper was actually WAY off. The dot was just outside the flipper rubber.
I want to add some of the mods you guys have. I've found the jeep, but I'm not having as much success with the helicopter. Is this just a hit or miss thing checking ebay?
Also, my game came with the Retro Refurb artblades (https://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/jurassic-park-stern-premium-pinball-sideblades/) but I think I prefer the Tilt Graphic ones (https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/product-page/jurassic-park-stern-gameblades). How do the Tilt ones look in person? Anyone who's seen both have an opinion? Does anyone have any experience removing art blades, specifically the Retro Refurb ones? Is it even worth me considering? Don't really want to start peeling them off if these things are really stuck on there.

Have a look at pingraffix ones as well

#9144 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I pity the fool that doesn't install custom T-molding!
[quoted image]
Seriously, my order of 3/4" yellow t-molding from http://t-molding.com just arrived today, so I was excited to get it installed. This is my first pin that utilizes t-molding, and I wanted to spruce up the black that came standard on my premium. For my setup, yellow was the obvious choice, but there are a variety of colors to choose from. I ordered the minimum 20 feet of t-molding as this was enough to do one pin with some extra. Actually, you need about 6-1/2 to 7 feet of t-molding per side (this allows for several inches extra when installing).
Given this was the first time I've ever done any t-molding work, I thought I'd document and share the process. To begin with, on the DIY difficulty scale from 1 to 10, I would put this at a 3. You need to know a couple of techniques, have the right tools, and be aware of a couple of things to achieve the perfect t-molding install.
1 - While you may choose to use a different tool for cutting, the tools I used included flush cutters and a rubber mallet (I put tape over the ends so I'd be hitting the t-molding with a clean surface).
[quoted image]
2 - Begin by removing the old t-molding from both sides. In my case this was easily done, so I was careful not to damage the molding in case I ever wanted to re-install it for whatever reason. Start by finding the joint located in the middle of the underside either sideboard. Just using your hands (no tools required), pull down on the edges of the t-molding to pull it away from the groove. Once the end is free, simply follow this process around the full perimeter until the t-molding is fully removed. Be careful and take your time when doing this so as not to damage the board. You should pull the t-molding away from the board in a perpendicular fashion. Also, when removing the current molding, be careful not to let it fall and kink or you will create a bad looking spot in the plastic and will not want to reuse it.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
3 - On a table or the floor, stretch out the new t-molding strip inline with the old so that you know how long of a piece to cut off. I added about 6" extra just in case I messed up an end and so that I could cut the finished in exactly to the correct length. Use your cutters to trim off the new length. Again, align one of the ends of your new piece with an old piece and notice the position of the first notch a few inches from the end. Use your cutters and cut a parallelogram shaped notch in the same location (see next bullet).
4 - To install, position the t-molding on the underside edge so that the notch aligns with the front bottom corner. Use your rubber mallet to tap the t-molding fully and evenly into the slot. Again, "tap" don't pound or hit forcefully. You want to gently tap the full length of the molding to ensure that it is fully seated in the groove and has an even and consistent feel as your run your hand over the length of it. To round the corner, tap the t-molding with the hammer in one hand as you stretch it around the corner with the other. Continue to insert and tap the t-molding in a little at a time as you work around the entire board (i.e. don't insert the t-molding partially all the way around then tap as you will create kinks and high spots doing it this way). As you approach a corner, assess where the groove position will need to be, user your cutters to create it, then proceed until you reach the starting point of the t-molding at bottom-center.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
5 - When you get to the end, fully tap the t-molding in and overlap with the starting point. Now user your cutters to trim the plastic in the exact spot needed so as to create a joint that butts together without a gap.
[quoted image]
6 - Repeat the same process on the other side, then stand back and admire the custom look of your new t-molding installation.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Remeber - just "tap it in"!

Yellow looks really good on this now that I see it after you finished with it. Thanks for all the details as I got yellow Tmolding for my Avengers Premium but after seeing this might give this a go on my JP Premium as well. I’ll definitely keep your instructions handy as I’m not a real hands on type so the more info I have the better.

#9145 1 year ago

Great info and links! So to be clear the PA multiplier locks the moment you collect the award...?

#9146 1 year ago
Quoted from lockeness:

Thanks, I searched but obviously not very well...

I was able to fix this and it was super embarrassingly easy. Thanks again to the forum for helping out.

#9147 1 year ago
Quoted from holminone:

Great info and links! So to be clear the PA multiplier locks the moment you collect the award...?

Yep that's the multiplier that'll be used for calculating the award and then it resets.

When you start PA, you'll build both the PA award plus the PA multiplier. Only the multiplier carries over, when you drain or PA times out. But when you hit the right ramp you'll collect whatever the award is that you've built during that specific PA, multiplied by multiplier you've built over the PA's since you last collected the award or the start of the game. So it is important to have built a decent award value during the PA that you decide to cash it in.

#9148 1 year ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Does the manual plunger make the helipad ramp?
You may need to lift the left fork in the shooter lane - see the keypost on the Prem/LE thread https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/28#post-5255575
Alternatively you may need to adjust the alignment of the autoplunger with the ball - see this post https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/120#post-5758762

Yeah this is getting worse with every play I guess I need to do this. And no it doesnt work with either the auto or the manual most of the time.

#9149 1 year ago

This game is ridiculously good. So hard. So much to master. But you will never master.

#9150 1 year ago
Quoted from holminone:

This game is ridiculously good. So hard. So much to master. But you will never master.

Well not for us mere mortals ...

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