(Topic ID: 248582)

Jurassic Park (Stern 2019) Owners Club. Welcome! To Jurassic park.....

By Scribbles

2 years ago


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#8851 9 months ago
Quoted from Nameim:

The jaw fell off my TRex today. I found two of the three screws holding the plastic jaw on. I am amazed at how short the screws are. It’s no wonder the jaw fell off. My question is for those of you who have had this happen on your game. How did you reattach the jaw? Did you remove all or part of the T Rex mech to gain access to the screw holes or did you leave the mech in place and reset the screws from below the jaw? Did you replace the stock screws with longer ones? Any and all advice is appreciated. Thank you!

Here's a key post from the LE/Prem thread on reattaching the jaw - they used blue locktite to stop the screws falling out again

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/60#post-5318928

#8852 9 months ago
Quoted from pterofractal:

I finally bought my first pinball machine and its a Jurassic Park Pro! About a dozen or so games in and completly in love!
I've noticed the control room shot gets a lot of false positives, like if I hit the escape target hard enough it'll trigger the switch, or sometimes when it smacks into the side of the raptor pit. Is there a way for me to adjust the switch to make it less sensitive?

Welcome to the JP owners club!

The control room switch is a leaf switch - check that the target is standing up straight and not leaning to one side. To make it less sensitive you just need to carefully part the leaves in the switch so that there is a little more room between them - it maybe easier to remove the switch from under the playfield to make the adjustment

#8853 9 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Welcome to the JP owners club!
The control room switch is a leaf switch - check that the target is standing up straight and not leaning to one side. To make it less sensitive you just need to carefully part the leaves in the switch so that there is a little more room between them - it maybe easier to remove the switch from under the playfield to make the adjustment

Thank you! I'll try this right away!

#8854 9 months ago

What's everyones standard score on J.P. I get an average of 100-200 million. I feel I need to up my game. Additionally, I feel that the upper right flipper to left orbit could be smoother by slimming down the Y bracket between the left orbit and tower shot. I'm not sure why they made a Y and not just a metal sleeve separation. The left orbit could be more consistent and repetitive.

#8855 9 months ago

I average about 500 mil per game, 3 ball normal tilt, factory setting but set up kinda steep. My high atm is about 2.8 bil but I still can’t reach Nublar so...I suck basically

Quoted from trk12fire:

What's everyones standard score on J.P. I get an average of 100-200 million. I feel I need to up my game. Additionally, I feel that the upper right flipper to left orbit could be smoother by slimming down the Y bracket between the left orbit and tower shot. I'm not sure why they made a Y and not just a metal sleeve separation. The left orbit could be more consistent and repetitive.

#8856 9 months ago
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:

I average about 500 mil per game, 3 ball normal tilt, factory setting but set up kinda steep. My high atm is about 2.8 bil but I still can’t reach Nublar so...I suck basically

Well that just means I really suck. However, my game was sitting at a closed (due to Covid) location since March. I just got it to my house recently. So, it's time for me to get busy and put up some scores.

#8857 9 months ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

What's everyones standard score on J.P. I get an average of 100-200 million. I feel I need to up my game. Additionally, I feel that the upper right flipper to left orbit could be smoother by slimming down the Y bracket between the left orbit and tower shot. I'm not sure why they made a Y and not just a metal sleeve separation. The left orbit could be more consistent and repetitive.

A good game for me is 500-800M and my GC is 2.1B but having not played mine for a while I now typically do 100-300M

I feel it's just game time that makes the difference

#8858 9 months ago

Everyone sucks at this game, that’s why it’s great! Elwin games ( especially JP imo ) are real asskickers.

Quoted from trk12fire:

Well that just means I really suck. However, my game was sitting at a closed (due to Covid) location since March. I just got it to my house recently. So, it's time for me to get busy and put up some scores.

#8859 9 months ago

For those of you who have added a real knocker, what part(s) do I need, and how do I install/connect it? Also, by adding a real one does that disable the digital screech sound, or are they independent?

BTW, I love my friends’ reactions when they match and a real knocker goes off. Had some friends over recently, and they literally thought they did something that broke my AFMr when the knocker fired.

#8860 9 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

For those of you who have added a real knocker, what part(s) do I need, and how do I install/connect it? Also, by adding a real one does that disable the digital screech sound, or are they independent?
BTW, I love my friends’ reactions when they match and a real knocker goes off. Had some friends over recently, and they literally thought they did something that broke my AFMr when the knocker fired.

You can buy a kit from Pinball Life https://www.pinballlife.com/real-knocker-kit-for-stern-spikespike-2.html

When you install it, you go into the settings and change the knocker volume to off (turns off the screech) and the Q24 Option to Knocker (to trigger the real knocker)

Knocker (resized).jpg

#8861 9 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

For those of you who have added a real knocker, what part(s) do I need, and how do I install/connect it? Also, by adding a real one does that disable the digital screech sound, or are they independent?
BTW, I love my friends’ reactions when they match and a real knocker goes off. Had some friends over recently, and they literally thought they did something that broke my AFMr when the knocker fired.

Yes it disables the screech.

#8862 9 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

You can buy a kit from Pinball Life https://www.pinballlife.com/real-knocker-kit-for-stern-spikespike-2.html
When you install it, you go into the settings and change the knocker volume to off (turns off the screech) and the Q24 Option to Knocker (to trigger the real knocker)
[quoted image]

Perfect, thanks. Is the best place to mount it in the top corner of the head or somewhere else?

#8863 9 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Is the best place to mount it in the top corner of the head or somewhere else?

I mounted it in the back left corner of the cabinet on IMDN, and it's the loudest knocker I've heard! I think they have suggested locations in the instructions or maybe that's in another thread somewhere.

#8864 9 months ago

I put mine right in the center on the back bottom.. and yeah it's flippin loud. Scares me at times

screenshot.131 (resized).jpg
#8865 9 months ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

What's everyones standard score on J.P. I get an average of 100-200 million. I feel I need to up my game. Additionally, I feel that the upper right flipper to left orbit could be smoother by slimming down the Y bracket between the left orbit and tower shot. I'm not sure why they made a Y and not just a metal sleeve separation. The left orbit could be more consistent and repetitive.

Just thought I'd boost your ego real quick, I just got the game and my average is probably around 35mil, with a high score around 300mil, so everytime you play you can think about how you are beating me

#8866 9 months ago
Quoted from ScottyC:

I put mine right in the center on the back bottom.. and yeah it's flippin loud. Scares me at times [quoted image]

Same as where I put mine and it is too loud actually. The screech noise is annoying but the loudness of the knocker in that location is just as annoying if not more so. Wish Stern would put a setting for Q24 where you could adjust the milliseconds it fires. They do for most other coils.

Also if you are looking for a W/B "thwack" sound then you should install in the head. In the cabinet gives a more cavernous "thump". But SO LOUD!

#8867 9 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Perfect, thanks. Is the best place to mount it in the top corner of the head or somewhere else?

I mounted mine in the bottom back left of the cabinet.
It is VERY aggresive, I put a pad on the plate to tone it down a bit.

#8868 9 months ago
Quoted from pterofractal:

Just thought I'd boost your ego real quick, I just got the game and my average is probably around 35mil, with a high score around 300mil, so everytime you play you can think about how you are beating me

This is me too! I really don’t like how this game makes me feel inside after getting spanked by it

#8869 9 months ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

This is me too! I really don’t like how this game makes me feel inside after getting spanked by it

I know what you mean! But it is nice that the game is so hard, it makes it so I feel amazing when I do something good, but not frustrated when I miss something

#8870 9 months ago
Quoted from pterofractal:

I know what you mean! But it is nice that the game is so hard, it makes it so I feel amazing when I do something good, but not frustrated when I miss something

Oh yeah, for sure!

#8871 9 months ago

My first new Stern, JP Pro.
Best pinball playfield design ever.
That's Why I choose JP instead off AIQ or turtles.
No more homebrew for me.

IMG_20210105_201353 (resized).jpg
#8872 9 months ago
Quoted from pinballwil:

My first new Stern, JP Pro.
Best pinball playfield design ever.
That's Why I choose JP instead off AIQ or turtles.
No more homebrew for me.[quoted image]

Congratulations!

#8873 9 months ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

I mounted mine in the bottom back left of the cabinet.
It is VERY aggresive, I put a pad on the plate to tone it down a bit.

Just ordered one along with the PBL external volume control/headphone jack (just $49 vs Stern's $99). Can hardly wait to get the knocker installed, as I love watching people jump when it fires! My other games have them in the head (came that way), but I think I'll follow the suggestions offered and mount it in the cabinet this time.

#8874 9 months ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

What's everyones standard score on J.P. I get an average of 100-200 million. I feel I need to up my game. Additionally, I feel that the upper right flipper to left orbit could be smoother by slimming down the Y bracket between the left orbit and tower shot. I'm not sure why they made a Y and not just a metal sleeve separation. The left orbit could be more consistent and repetitive.

Had the game for a couple of days now. Typical score is 100 million with an occasional 320ish million. I love that the game is hard, but it's also a huge flaw. The rules are so deep and amazing, the shots are tight and some a bit awkward, so the rules, especially the deeper ones IMO are largely inaccessible. I thought Dialed In was tough. But it pales in comparison to JP. The shots on JP are tight, and you are rewarded for precision...

One thing I would like to see added to modern rulesets- especially say during multiball frenzies, is rewarding survival. There is SOOO MUCH you can measure beyond jackpot target hits or sequencing of hits . I would like some creative software engineer start doing stuff with TIME and INDEPENDENT TARGET HITS as a means measuring simultaneous ball activity in the playfied (activity) and rewarding the survival of this activity during multiball frenzies. For example, in a chaotic multi-ball, I wouldn't mind getting a little something something for independent switch hits that occur within say .2 seconds within each other... and then measure the total occurances of this and adjust my jackpots accordingly. This way, your jackpots are increasing based on the time you are surviving during a frenzy.... You can have a cradle strategy for control based play and also get rewarded for frenzy play. This would be in addition to traditional rules like sequencing target shots. Frankly, I'll take ANYTHING rewarding earlier in the game outside of pure precision because I won't in my lifetime achieve 1/100th of what the game has to offer.

My son, who I consider a very good player, walked away in disgust and frustration last night.

#8875 9 months ago

I cant find the Official rules sheet PDF on Sterns web page. Does this not exist ? I printed and bound the AIQ rules and its looks really nice on my coffee table by my games. Does anyone have this PDF? Thanks everyone !

#8876 9 months ago
Quoted from holden1090:

I cant find the Official rules sheet PDF on Sterns web page. Does this not exist ? I printed and bound the AIQ rules and its looks really nice on my coffee table by my games. Does anyone have this PDF? Thanks everyone !

Its not official (I couldn't find it either) but this is what I refer to http://tiltforums.com/t/stern-jurassic-park-rulesheet/5644

#8877 9 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Just ordered one along with the PBL external volume control/headphone jack (just $49 vs Stern's $99). Can hardly wait to get the knocker installed, as I love watching people jump when it fires! My other games have them in the head (came that way), but I think I'll follow the suggestions offered and mount it in the cabinet this time.

Good call.
Both are must haves for me.

#8878 9 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Just ordered one along with the PBL external volume control/headphone jack (just $49 vs Stern's $99). Can hardly wait to get the knocker installed, as I love watching people jump when it fires! My other games have them in the head (came that way), but I think I'll follow the suggestions offered and mount it in the cabinet this time.

The knocker connects to a board in the front left of the cabinet and is probably why they put it in the cabinet (rather than the headbox); also they may have wanted to keep it as far away from all the boards as possible. SS games had knockers in the cabinet while B/W from the 90's were in the headbox - I guess they were reducing the wire harnesses.

#8879 9 months ago

I've been debating whether or not to purchase some anti-glare glass for both my new JP and my AFMr LE, and after reading all the reviews and talking to someone who actually owned some, I decided to purchase two sheets of VooDoo Glass from Cointaker based on Cointaker's reputation and that VooDoo seems to be the most economical option available at this time.

Well, the glass arrived today, and I just finished installing it. What I will say is that it doesn't really remove reflections caused by light sources (they are still there, but maybe to a slightly less degree), but what I'm incredibly pleased with is the clarity of the glass. It truly looks like there isn't even any glass installed. Also, I think by "non-glare" the glass brands don't mean you won't see reflections. Rather, their is no cloudiness in the glass, thus eliminating the glare/diffusing of light caused by the haziness of regular pinball glass. You may not even think regular pinball glass is hazy, but looking at two pins side by side with the different glasses, it is noticeably obvious.

If you've been on the fence like I was for quite some time, my recommendation is to definitely make the purchase. Again, VooDoo was my choice, but I know there are a couple of other brands out there of similar quality.

#8880 9 months ago

What’s a good score for King of the Island Multiball with current software? I read it used to be higher scoring. Either I’m crap at it or it’s the first fault I’ve found with this game. It’s a fairly advanced multiball to get to, I would compare it to Cherry Bomb multiball in GOTG which is very high scoring, but it doesn’t seem to be anywhere near there.
I’ve gotten over 400 million on raptor multiball, over 150 million on TREX multiball and over 100 million on chaos multiball yet my best KOTI multiball is under 40 million. In fact when I look at my records, every TREX mode and every control room mode is waaaay higher than my best KOTI multiball. I feel it should be more lucrative, especially if I’m on ball 3 I’m always going to skip it to make sure I get to visitors center, even a poorly played game is going to get a couple hundred million at visitors center.
Even my best spinner rip was worth more than KOTI!

#8881 9 months ago
Quoted from Parkshow30:

What’s a good score for King of the Island Multiball with current software? I read it used to be higher scoring. Either I’m crap at it or it’s the first fault I’ve found with this game. It’s a fairly advanced multiball to get to, I would compare it to Cherry Bomb multiball in GOTG which is very high scoring, but it doesn’t seem to be anywhere near there.
I’ve gotten over 400 million on raptor multiball, over 150 million on TREX multiball and over 100 million on chaos multiball yet my best KOTI multiball is under 40 million. In fact when I look at my records, every TREX mode and every control room mode is waaaay higher than my best KOTI multiball. I feel it should be more lucrative, especially if I’m on ball 3 I’m always going to skip it to make sure I get to visitors center, even a poorly played game is going to get a couple hundred million at visitors center.
Even my best spinner rip was worth more than KOTI!

Yep mine are similar - my 12M KOTI score is nothing by comparison to the my other MB's (100-250M). Then again I guess I don't play KOTI as often as the other MB's so the opportunity to post a great KOTI score is significantly less

#8882 9 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Yep mine are similar - my 12M KOTI score is nothing by comparison to the my other MB's (100-250M). Then again I guess I don't play KOTI as often as the other MB's so the opportunity to post a great KOTI score is significantly less

Since it’s not just me I hope they fix that on a code update. It seems like it should be a real fun reward worth going for. As of now the only time I play it is when I’m not paying attention to the direction of the truck and accidentally start that paddock.
I played it last night and had a pretty long multiball with it, easily as long as a raptor that would have netted me between 75-250 million and only got me 39 and change.

#8883 9 months ago
Quoted from Parkshow30:

Since it’s not just me I hope they fix that on a code update. It seems like it should be a real fun reward worth going for. As of now the only time I play it is when I’m not paying attention to the direction of the truck and accidentally start that paddock.
I played it last night and had a pretty long multiball with it, easily as long as a raptor that would have netted me between 75-250 million and only got me 39 and change.

I just took a look at the JP rulesheet - at the bottom of the KOTI MB section is this "Note: KOTI scoring was significantly reduced in 0.88 code revision." so maybe they swung the axe on this one a bit harder than they needed to

#8884 9 months ago
Quoted from Parkshow30:

Since it’s not just me I hope they fix that on a code update. It seems like it should be a real fun reward worth going for. As of now the only time I play it is when I’m not paying attention to the direction of the truck and accidentally start that paddock.
I played it last night and had a pretty long multiball with it, easily as long as a raptor that would have netted me between 75-250 million and only got me 39 and change.

If you don't know the rules for it and we're just hanging the ball around that is probably most of it.
I have only been there once and I was in similar shape. Long multiball with no clue and a lowish score of 35 mil or so.

#8885 9 months ago
Quoted from BC_Gambit:

If you don't know the rules for it and we're just hanging the ball around that is probably most of it.
I have only been there once and I was in similar shape. Long multiball with no clue and a lowish score of 35 mil or so.

Here's the rules:

King of the Island Multiball (KOTI)
Navigate to the Spinosaurus Paddock and capture the Spinosaurus to qualify KOTI. KOTI will be lit at the left ramp in single-ball play and must be played before moving on to the next paddock.
Switch-based MB – a # of switches qualifies (lights) all major shots. Shoot one lit shot to collect a 1x JP. Then repeat the switch collection phase, followed by all major shots (except ones already collected) lit again for +1x JP (2x, 3x, etc, up to 5x), but after locking in that shot JP, you then have to re-shoot your prior collected JP shots to requalify the switch phase. Multiplier keeps increasing for each subsequent jackpot. Each Jackpot has a different color corresponding to its multiplier, in the order of the rainbow (starting at red). There is no Fossil awarded for progress in KOTI.
The mode opens up with a different intro depending on whether or not you captured the T-Rex along with the Spinosaurus. It’s pretty neat, but does this mean anything?
Note: KOTI scoring was significantly reduced in 0.88 code revision.

#8886 9 months ago

Finally got grand champion tonight. This game was totally kicking my butt so I dialed down the sling power some and had my best game ever. The slings would just drive the ball down the outlanes over and over.

#8887 9 months ago
Quoted from woody76:

Finally got grand champion tonight. This game was totally kicking my butt so I dialed down the sling power some and had my best game ever. The slings would just drive the ball down the outlanes over and over.

I have that same problem. What did you set your slings to?

#8888 9 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I've been debating whether or not to purchase some anti-glare glass for both my new JP and my AFMr LE, and after reading all the reviews and talking to someone who actually owned some, I decided to purchase two sheets of VooDoo Glass from Cointaker based on Cointaker's reputation and that VooDoo seems to be the most economical option available at this time.
Well, the glass arrived today, and I just finished installing it. What I will say is that it doesn't really remove reflections caused by light sources (they are still there, but maybe to a slightly less degree), but what I'm incredibly pleased with is the clarity of the glass. It truly looks like there isn't even any glass installed. Also, I think by "non-glare" the glass brands don't mean you won't see reflections. Rather, their is no cloudiness in the glass, thus eliminating the glare/diffusing of light caused by the haziness of regular pinball glass. You may not even think regular pinball glass is hazy, but looking at two pins side by side with the different glasses, it is noticeably obvious.
If you've been on the fence like I was for quite some time, my recommendation is to definitely make the purchase. Again, VooDoo was my choice, but I know there are a couple of other brands out there of similar quality.

I love invisiglass/sternHD glass. Once I got my first LE with it I was hooked. All 5 of my pins have invisiglass now. I played with the lights on(dimmed to like 30%) and the invisiglass really helps with the glare.

#8889 9 months ago
Quoted from mbrave77:

I love invisiglass/sternHD glass. Once I got my first LE with it I was hooked. All 5 of my pins have invisiglass now. I played with the lights on(dimmed to like 30%) and the invisiglass really helps with the glare.

Yep I bit the bullet and bought PDI glass for all my pins a few years ago - makes a huge difference!

#8890 9 months ago

Anyone have a Stern factory set of art blades they don't plan to use?

#8891 9 months ago

Has anyone put a Premium translite on a Pro? If so could you share some pictures?

#8893 9 months ago

Why do I randomly seem to be getting asked to shoot the set trap targets behind the truck when I'm doing Escape from Nublar competition challenge mode? I didn't think these should show up there.

#8894 9 months ago
Quoted from Vitty:

Why do I randomly seem to be getting asked to shoot the set trap targets behind the truck when I'm doing Escape from Nublar competition challenge mode? I didn't think these should show up there.

This is because you changed the direction of the truck and now you're not following the original path. So you now have to capture the dino (set trap targets) before you can look for the Escape shot. This can score bigger points but takes longer than if you follow the original path. Hope that helps.

#8895 9 months ago

Thanks, I thought this only applied to getting to Escape during a regular game and not the challenge mode.

Quoted from Red_Devils:

This is because you changed the direction of the truck and now you're not following the original path. So you now have to capture the dino (set trap targets) before you can look for the Escape shot. This can score bigger points but takes longer than if you follow the original path. Hope that helps.

#8896 9 months ago
Quoted from Vitty:

Thanks, I thought this only applied to getting to Escape during a regular game and not the challenge mode.

I missed that. I don't know I've never played the challenge mode just the regular one. Hmmm

#8897 9 months ago
Quoted from RetroGamerJP:

EDIT - I managed to find a few copters on Amazon so if you are interested in getting one of these pre-modded and ready to drop into your machine, send me a PM.
Alternate process for Helicopter mod install (no grinding or sanding)
I got my helicopter in over the weekend and decided to install today. Many thanks to the brave souls before me who originally figured this out and shared with all of us... I wanted to see if I could find a way to install without having to grind away the bottom or deform the top in order for it to fit. Good news is, it can be done quite easily, and without having to take apart the copter. (unless you are trying to also do the cockpit light mod.
Basically with a pair of large needle-nose pliers, I grabbed the original rotor and with a couple of rocks back and forth, you can snap it off leaving a perfect guide hole. I also use the same pliers to snap off the lander gears. The remaining part of the landing gears may fall into the body of copter but they will come out later when you drill the larger holes.
Then on my drill press I used a 5/32" bit to go through the guide hole at top and straight down to create guide hole in bottom. Next, using a stepper bit on drill press I make a 1/2" hole through bottom plastic, this is the size of the shaft in the game you will be sliding copter over.
The trick to this method is to go with a larger hole on the top. Using the same stepper bit, I drill out top hole to a 5/8" hole, this allows for the washers and bearing to sit inside of the copter (instead of above it) and gives us the clearance needed without having to grind off the bottom of the copter.
You can see in the final pictures that the copter sits in perfectly with just enough clearance for the blades to spin and all without grinding away any material. You don't need to do anything to secure the copter, it naturally sits in the perfect spot and doesn't move at all. I also decided to remove the remaining hex posts (since they were only there to hold original helicopter plastic) and just put 6-32 nuts in place to clean that area up. I also did as others have done and placed a small dab of hot glue on the rear propeller to hold it in the perfect position to make sure the main rotor misses it during rotation.
Everything spins and functions as it should and it truly looks like it could have come from the factory this way.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

So...started working on this mod. I have two ideas:

1. I didn't want to make a 5/8" hole to have the washers under the blades fit into the helicopter. Instead....I bought one of these for $13.65 shipped ->

https://www.onlinebearingstore.com/f6-12g-miniature-thrust-ball-bearing-6x12x4-5-grooved.html

Basically....its the same concept that stern used with their 2 metal washers and ball bearing plastic ring. But....its thinner. So, its 6mm interior diameter (same as the sterns), but 12mm outside diameter. The sterns were 14mm. Its the same height (4.5mm). This way....I can just drill a 1/2" hole at the top and the ball bearings will fit inside the helicopter. It should be the best of both worlds ....no sanding and mechanism fits inside helicopter, but the same size hole as mr tantrum's design.

That is...if it works. I should have an update soon.

2. Instead of use comet matrix red LEDs tied to the combo flasher, I bought these ->

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32837133341.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.6ab94c4dck63nI

I use smaller 0402 leds for various other mods (like light up eyes in AFMr...see here -> https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/attack-from-mars-remake-afmr-owners-club/page/162#post-5406613 ). These are sewing thread thickness stuff. Amazing stuff.

I'm using 0805 LEDs, in yellow, for this mod since I want it to be brighter, but the head is still incredibly small and the wires are still incredibly thing, so I can use the front landing gear hole of the helicopter directly with these wires. Then, I'll tie it into the actual yellow helicopter LED.

When both of these items come in I will give an update!

#8898 9 months ago

Thanks, the only thing giving me pause is the orange sky. On a positive note, I like that it doesn't feature the vehicle. That's probably what I dislike most about the entire game.

#8899 9 months ago
Quoted from Vitty:

Why do I randomly seem to be getting asked to shoot the set trap targets behind the truck when I'm doing Escape from Nublar competition challenge mode? I didn't think these should show up there

In the challenge if you change the path direction (away from the optimal one it shows at the start of the challenge) the difficulty of the next round (rescue light sequence) is harder and as such makes you have to hit the set trap targets to escape. If you are going for speed this is a killer, and part of the challenge is to keep the optimal path.

#8900 9 months ago
Quoted from Vitty:

Thanks, I thought this only applied to getting to Escape during a regular game and not the challenge mode.

It applies to both.. Per the Rules:

"Because there was no game beforehand, you are spotted 12 rescues and a default path to Visitor Center (the far edge of the map depending on what direction the truck is already facing)."

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