Quoted from Deyanks98:Ok cool I have a Premium so that explains the triangles being lit. Will it be the same on the AIQ Premium as well? I'll definitely check out the PinStadium lights. Thanks.
Yes
Quoted from Deyanks98:Ok cool I have a Premium so that explains the triangles being lit. Will it be the same on the AIQ Premium as well? I'll definitely check out the PinStadium lights. Thanks.
Yes
I'm not having any luck in the "Prem/LE" thread, so adding my question here also. Apologies to those who have seen my query.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Ive never had a problem with my JP, but I’ve now joined the illustrious group of people with TREX issues. I’ve read a bunch of stuff but seem to be getting nowhere.
In game the TREX no longer moves. In the service menu I’m able to get it to move up and down but nothing left to right. Due to this, TREX multiballs typically time out forcing me to disable the TREX.
Switches all seem to register ok ie Home, Mouth, Up, Down. I’m not hearing anything from the motor/any attempt from the motor to engage during the game or on start up.
Has anyone had this??
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:I'm not having any luck in the "Prem/LE" thread, so adding my question here also. Apologies to those who have seen my query.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Ive never had a problem with my JP, but I’ve now joined the illustrious group of people with TREX issues. I’ve read a bunch of stuff but seem to be getting nowhere.
In game the TREX no longer moves. In the service menu I’m able to get it to move up and down but nothing left to right. Due to this, TREX multiballs typically time out forcing me to disable the TREX.
Switches all seem to register ok ie Home, Mouth, Up, Down. I’m not hearing anything from the motor/any attempt from the motor to engage during the game or on start up.
Has anyone had this??
Hey Flynny - I've not seen anyone post this type of issue before and I'm not familiar enough with Spike2 to know how to troubleshoot. My only suggestion would be to give AMD a call and see if they can advise how to troubleshoot the issue. Sorry I can't help you out mate
Quoted from Manny65:Hey Flynny - I've not seen anyone post this type of issue before and I'm not familiar enough with Spike2 to know how to troubleshoot. My only suggestion would be to give AMD a call and see if they can advise how to troubleshoot the issue. Sorry I can't help you out mate
Thanks Manny, I bought through Zax. Good idea though to email them, I’ve also emailed Stern... obviously an awkward time of year to have dramas. I’ve had a couple of parties at my house recently. Such a shame to have all these pinball newbies not experience the moving Trex head.
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:I’ve had a couple of parties at my house recently. Such a shame to have all these pinball newbies not experience the moving Trex head.
You'll just have to invite 'em back again, once you've got it sorted
Certainly interested to see what the issue is and it'd be great if you could share how they troubleshoot this to determine the problem - hopefully they don't simply throw hardware at it in the hope to solve the issue
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:I'm not having any luck in the "Prem/LE" thread, so adding my question here also. Apologies to those who have seen my query.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Ive never had a problem with my JP, but I’ve now joined the illustrious group of people with TREX issues. I’ve read a bunch of stuff but seem to be getting nowhere.
In game the TREX no longer moves. In the service menu I’m able to get it to move up and down but nothing left to right. Due to this, TREX multiballs typically time out forcing me to disable the TREX.
Switches all seem to register ok ie Home, Mouth, Up, Down. I’m not hearing anything from the motor/any attempt from the motor to engage during the game or on start up.
Has anyone had this??
Not sure if you have re-seated all your connections. Check fuses too. To me it seems like you aren’t getting power to a portion of your TRex
Quoted from JayLar:Couldn't find the answer when searching the thread. My T-Rex jaw just stopped moving. It started with a ball getting stuck in the jaw. Had to manually open the jaw to get it out. Got a Premium. Tried restart and moving the jaw by hand. No luck. The T-Rex head is moving normally. Suggestions?
Anyone got an idea where to start? Very greatful for advice.
Quoted from JayLar:Couldn't find the answer when searching the thread. My T-Rex jaw just stopped moving. It started with a ball getting stuck in the jaw. Had to manually open the jaw to get it out. Got a Premium. Tried restart and moving the jaw by hand. No luck. The T-Rex head is moving normally. Suggestions?
Quoted from JayLar:Anyone got an idea where to start? Very greatful for advice.
cooked71 reported a issue in the Prem/LE thread somewhat similar to yours - turned out to be a bad solder connection in the T-Rex mech. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/87#post-5435328
Others have also posted where they've had wires in T-Rex come off or been crushed, so I suspect you'll need to pull T-Rex out and inspect the connections
Does anyone have a photo of the back of the TREX? ie cables and circuit board? Looks like I have a few empty spots for plugs to fill.
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:Does anyone have a photo of the back of the TREX? ie cables and circuit board? Looks like I have a few empty spots for plugs to fill.
Let me know if you need any more or have any questions
JP1 (resized).jpgJP2 (resized).jpgJP3 (resized).jpgQuoted from Flynnyfalcon:Thanks Manny, will pop out to the garage soon and take a squizz. Whereabouts in Melbourne are you?
Camberwell
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:Well my TREX is plugged in correctly.
Based on a quick test the top PCB and motor does the horizontal movement
JP T-Rex controllers (resized).jpg
Are the 2 LEDs on on the top board (horizontal movement)?
JP4 (resized).jpgJP5 (resized).jpgQuoted from Flynnyfalcon:...will pop out to the garage soon and take a squizz...
I'm not sure that phrase conveys the same meaning here in America as you intend it to.
Many of us are thinking, "Why would he do that in the garage?"
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I'm not sure that phrase conveys the same meaning here in America as you intend it to.
Many of us are thinking, "Why would he do that in the garage?"
Quoted from Manny65:In case any of you are wondering ....
[quoted image]
What he said
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I'm not sure that phrase conveys the same meaning here in America as you intend it to.
Many of us are thinking, "Why would he do that in the garage?"
Haha
Quoted from Manny65:Based on a quick test the top PCB and motor does the horizontal movement
[quoted image]
Are the 2 LEDs on on the top board (horizontal movement)?[quoted image][quoted image]
Flynnyfalcon did you check if the LEDs on the top controller board were on?
Quoted from Manny65:flynnyfalcon did you check if the LEDs on the top controller board were on?
One led on the top board, none on the lower board (not sure if it has any).
438B274F-1504-434B-88B9-7DBEE61AECC9 (resized).jpeg4842B250-00D6-47CD-A086-85C0CD896FE7 (resized).jpegCan’t find anything in the manual relating to the diagnostic LEDs on the Stepper Motor Board. Im assuming the issue is related to that.
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:Can’t find anything in the manual relating to the diagnostic LEDs on the Stepper Motor Board. Im assuming the issue is related to that.
Yep it would seem to point to the potential issue - I find the lack of diagnostic information for owners and operators pretty disappointing.
Let us know how you get on with Stern support
Quoted from Manny65:Yep it would seem to point to the potential issue - I find the lack of diagnostic information for owners and operators pretty disappointing.
Let us know how you get on with Stern support
Thanks Manny, yep, nothing in the manual or on the board other than “LED1” & “LED2”
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:Thanks Manny, yep, nothing in the manual or on the board other than “LED1” & “LED2”
I realised you pic is upside down - so it's LED2 that is out on yours.
In your discussions with Stern, see if you can get some information on their diagnostic LEDs
Quoted from Manny65:I realised you pic is upside down - so it's LED2 that is out on yours.
In your discussions with Stern, see if you can get some information on their diagnostic LEDs
[quoted image]
I’m on to it
I've had several ask about doing a thatch roof for the Stern raptor tower like I've done for the Mezel version. Here is my prototype, and it fits perfectly. Unfortunately, I'm low on the beige filament I use to simulate the straw coloring (it is on backorder), so I'm not able to offer them for sale just yet. I should have enough to print a final version (the prototype shown is printed using a different filament color), which I'll try to do in the next day or two so I can post pics of what it will actually look like.
Attachment will be via a small piece of adhesive on the underside of the roof, and it will install directly on top of the current plastics without any modification to the tower.
BTW, if the pic looks "different" to you, it is because I currently have my raptor pit all torn apart for something custom I'm having done that I will share with the group in the next couple of days.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I've had several ask about doing a thatch roof for the Stern raptor tower like I've done for the Mezel version. Here is my prototype, and it fits perfectly. Unfortunately, I'm low on the beige filament I use to simulate the straw coloring (it is on backorder), so I'm not able to offer them for sale just yet. I should have enough to print a final version (the prototype shown is printed using a different filament color), which I'll try to do in the next day or two so I can post pics of what it will actually look like.
Attachment will be via a small piece of adhesive on the underside of the roof, and it will install directly on top of the current plastics without any modification to the tower.
BTW, if the pic looks "different" to you, it is because I currently have my raptor pit all torn apart for something custom I'm having done that I will share with the group in the next couple of days.
[quoted image]
Looks great! Put me on the list when you get the design and materials finalized!
Just joined the club! Awesome game. I have a couple of questions and the history in this forum is still not clear.
1) Flipper positioning. According to Keith Elwin, the flippers should align to factory tiny holes where the bottom flippers align to the "middle of the hole". Elwin says specifically- "Correct for the bottom flippers. Top flipper the hole aligns to the top of the bat."
Question 1) Where are the "holes"? There are no holes in the classic B/W sense- but I do see tiny imperfections that can be passed for holes. (see photo). I assume the "holes" are the tiny imperfections that look like clear coated holes at the tip of the flipper?
Question 2). When Elwin says "Top flipper the hole aligns to the "top of the bat". What exactly is the top of the bat? Does he mean the rubber face edge that makes contact with the ball? The plastic face edge of the bat? WHERE EXACTLY should the top flipper be aligned? Where should the bottom ones be aligned?My game's top flipper is aligned such that a completely missed high speed loop shot will direct the ball to the center of the lower left flipper. The ball avoids the post at the tip of the bat. The problem I think with his positioning is the left play field shots feel kind of clunky and the shots not struck towards the tip of the bat invariably go into the captive ball/jeep. What is the correct positioning? Should a missed shot nick the post rubber and deflect? Curious to all your thoughts...
2) Spinner shot slowing down. Kind of feels by design for the ball to not fly through there. Just want to confirm. Here is a good video on found of the actual ball behavior. https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=hRCBeKAZIH4&feature=youtu.be# Looking for confirmation here on if this rattling/slowing down is expected, or if it should be faster.
IMG_8290 (resized).jpegIMG_8293 (resized).jpegMy Newton ball keeping getting loose. I've tried locktite on the threaded post/nut under the playfield along with a lock washer. But over time it will work its way loose. Anyone else have this issue and if so, what is the fix? Thx!
Quoted from holminone:Just joined the club! Awesome game. I have a couple of questions and the history in this forum is still not clear.
1) Flipper positioning. According to Keith Elwin, the flippers should align to factory tiny holes where the bottom flippers align to the "middle of the hole". Elwin says specifically- "Correct for the bottom flippers. Top flipper the hole aligns to the top of the bat."
Question 1) Where are the "holes"? There are no holes in the classic B/W sense- but I do see tiny imperfections that can be passed for holes. (see photo). I assume the "holes" are the tiny imperfections that look like clear coated holes at the tip of the flipper?
Question 2). When Elwin says "Top flipper the hole aligns to the "top of the bat". What exactly is the top of the bat? Does he mean the rubber face edge that makes contact with the ball? The plastic face edge of the bat? WHERE EXACTLY should the top flipper be aligned? Where should the bottom ones be aligned?My game's top flipper is aligned such that a completely missed high speed loop shot will direct the ball to the center of the lower left flipper. The ball avoids the post at the tip of the bat. The problem I think with his positioning is the left play field shots feel kind of clunky and the shots not struck towards the tip of the bat invariably go into the captive ball/jeep. What is the correct positioning? Should a missed shot nick the post rubber and deflect? Curious to all your thoughts...
2) Spinner shot slowing down. Kind of feels by design for the ball to not fly through there. Just want to confirm. Here is a good video on found of the actual ball behavior. https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=hRCBeKAZIH4&feature=youtu.be# Looking for confirmation here on if this rattling/slowing down is expected, or if it should be faster.[quoted image][quoted image]
1) Yes, those are them. They are less 'holes' anymore and more just indentations. I see them in your pic - I've highlighted them here.
Screenshot 2021-01-03 143948 (resized).jpg
2) "Does he mean the rubber face edge that makes contact with the ball?" No. "The plastic face edge of the bat?" Yes. "Where should the bottom ones be aligned?" Middle of the plastic part of the bats should line up with the middle of the hole. In my opinion, your top flipper could come down (right) slightly. I've highlighted the "hole/indentation" in this picture. If you decide to follow Elwins positioning, then this hole should align with the top of the yellow bat.
Screenshot 2021-01-03 144540 (resized).jpg
Quoted from Manny65:cooked71 reported a issue in the Prem/LE thread somewhat similar to yours - turned out to be a bad solder connection in the T-Rex mech. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/87#post-5435328
Others have also posted where they've had wires in T-Rex come off or been crushed, so I suspect you'll need to pull T-Rex out and inspect the connections
Thanks a lot! I disassembled my T-Rex assembly and the screw for the jaw coil had fallen off. Mr T is now doing fine!
Quoted from holminone:Just joined the club! Awesome game. I have a couple of questions and the history in this forum is still not clear.
1) Flipper positioning. According to Keith Elwin, the flippers should align to factory tiny holes where the bottom flippers align to the "middle of the hole". Elwin says specifically- "Correct for the bottom flippers. Top flipper the hole aligns to the top of the bat."
Question 1) Where are the "holes"? There are no holes in the classic B/W sense- but I do see tiny imperfections that can be passed for holes. (see photo). I assume the "holes" are the tiny imperfections that look like clear coated holes at the tip of the flipper?
Question 2). When Elwin says "Top flipper the hole aligns to the "top of the bat". What exactly is the top of the bat? Does he mean the rubber face edge that makes contact with the ball? The plastic face edge of the bat? WHERE EXACTLY should the top flipper be aligned? Where should the bottom ones be aligned?My game's top flipper is aligned such that a completely missed high speed loop shot will direct the ball to the center of the lower left flipper. The ball avoids the post at the tip of the bat. The problem I think with his positioning is the left play field shots feel kind of clunky and the shots not struck towards the tip of the bat invariably go into the captive ball/jeep. What is the correct positioning? Should a missed shot nick the post rubber and deflect? Curious to all your thoughts...
2) Spinner shot slowing down. Kind of feels by design for the ball to not fly through there. Just want to confirm. Here is a good video on found of the actual ball behavior. https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=hRCBeKAZIH4&feature=youtu.be# Looking for confirmation here on if this rattling/slowing down is expected, or if it should be faster.[quoted image][quoted image]
I have the same experience with my spinner, where many shots don't make an orbit and are clunky. I would love to hear from others though and see how abnormal it is.
Quoted from Gogdog:I have the same experience with my spinner, where many shots don't make an orbit and are clunky. I would love to hear from others though and see how abnormal it is.
Mine is so smooth I would say 95% of either flipper shot makes it all the way around, no idea why it’s different than others. It works great for combos as I hit the spinner and then the raptor tower a lot when I play but when I’m in Chaos multiball I sure wish it would rattle. Pretty much the only way I can get the ball into the pops then is to make the shot directly into the pops.
It also makes it tough to relite the escape target as the ball rarely rolls over the switch needed to lite it.
99% of my spinner shots stop and drop cleanly into the pops, bump around, then exit through to the lower part of the loop behind the ramp. It does this so well, and without ball hops, that I assumed that was the way it was supposed to be. Do we know for sure which its designed to do?
Quoted from TVsFrank:99% of my spinner shots stop and drop cleanly into the pops, bump around, then exit through to the lower part of the loop behind the ramp. It does this so well, and without ball hops, that I assumed that was the way it was supposed to be. Do we know for sure which its designed to do?
Thanks all for the feedback. My boy says this is part of the design. And After hearing the other comments I agree. Besides, I wouldn’t want every shot to sling around there 100 miles per hour.
Quoted from mcvetyty:1) Yes, those are them. They are less 'holes' anymore and more just indentations. I see them in your pic - I've highlighted them here.
[quoted image]
2) "Does he mean the rubber face edge that makes contact with the ball?" No. "The plastic face edge of the bat?" Yes. "Where should the bottom ones be aligned?" Middle of the plastic part of the bats should line up with the middle of the hole. In my opinion, your top flipper could come down (right) slightly. I've highlighted the "hole/indentation" in this picture. If you decide to follow Elwins positioning, then this hole should align with the top of the yellow bat.
[quoted image]
Thank you! For the top flipper is the suggestion that the indent is aligned with the plastic bat face? I assume the rubber post comes into play a bit then on a shot that zips around and doesn’t get hit by the upper right? Is this true too?
"For the top flipper is the suggestion that the indent is aligned with the plastic bat face?"
Yes.
"I assume the rubber post comes into play a bit then on a shot that zips around and doesn’t get hit by the upper right? Is this true too?"
Yes, it will give the ball a bump so that it doesn't go SDTM.
Quoted from holminone:Question 2). When Elwin says "Top flipper the hole aligns to the "top of the bat". What exactly is the top of the bat? Does he mean the rubber face edge that makes contact with the ball? The plastic face edge of the bat? WHERE EXACTLY should the top flipper be aligned? Where should the bottom ones be aligned?My game's top flipper is aligned such that a completely missed high speed loop shot will direct the ball to the center of the lower left flipper. The ball avoids the post at the tip of the bat. The problem I think with his positioning is the left play field shots feel kind of clunky and the shots not struck towards the tip of the bat invariably go into the captive ball/jeep. What is the correct positioning? Should a missed shot nick the post rubber and deflect? Curious to all your thoughts...
Yes the front face of the bat (red line) needs to align with the dot (green arrow) - in the below example the flipper is sitting slightly behind the dot, while yours seem to be too far in front
JP Upper Flipper (resized).jpgQuoted from Da-Shaker:Where's the Add a Ball on the play field
From Tilt Forums rule explanations:
During T-Rex Multiball, Raptor Tri-Ball, and King of the Island, hitting the lit Supply Drop standup will award an Add-a-Ball (for the first Supply Drop of each MB).
http://tiltforums.com/t/stern-jurassic-park-rulesheet/5644
For Chaos Multiball add a balls come from pop bumper hits.
Quoted from Da-Shaker:Where's the Add a Ball on the play field
The pop bumpers progress toward Add-a-Ball in Chaos Multiball (more hits are required for each subsequent ball)
During T-Rex Multiball, Raptor Tri-Ball, and King of the Island, hitting the lit Supply Drop standup will award an Add-a-Ball (for the first Supply Drop of each MB).
In Invalid Frenzy hitting any switch in the raptor pen will build towards an add-a-ball (more hits are required for each subsequent ball)
Quoted from EaglePin:From Tilt Forums rule explanations:
During T-Rex Multiball, Raptor Tri-Ball, and King of the Island, hitting the lit Supply Drop standup will award an Add-a-Ball (for the first Supply Drop of each MB).
http://tiltforums.com/t/stern-jurassic-park-rulesheet/5644
For Chaos Multiball add a balls come from pop bumper hits.
Haha you beat me to it ...
Quoted from holminone:Spinner shot slowing down. Kind of feels by design for the ball to not fly through there. Just want to confirm. Here is a good video on found of the actual ball behavior. https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=hRCBeKAZIH4&feature=youtu.be# Looking for confirmation here on if this rattling/slowing down is expected, or if it should be faster.
Quoted from Gogdog:I have the same experience with my spinner, where many shots don't make an orbit and are clunky. I would love to hear from others though and see how abnormal it is.
I find that the spinner shot from the left flipper will go mostly into the pops, while those shot with the right flipper will make the orbit (as it makes more contact with the spinner's left ball guide to curve the ball into the orbit). This way I'm able to control whether I want to rip the spinner when super spinner is lit or drop it into the pops to light Escape Lit.
Quoted from EaglePin:From Tilt Forums rule explanations:
During T-Rex Multiball, Raptor Tri-Ball, and King of the Island, hitting the lit Supply Drop standup will award an Add-a-Ball (for the first Supply Drop of each MB).
http://tiltforums.com/t/stern-jurassic-park-rulesheet/5644
For Chaos Multiball add a balls come from pop bumper hits.
Thank you, glad I asked
Just completed my design and final test model for the original tower (non-Mezel edition) thatch roof. The roof is 3D printed, lightly stained for a more weathered look, then clear coated. As I mentioned previously, I'm currently out of the filament color used to make this, and it is on backorder. Therefore, I cannot offer these for sale yet, but when I do I will alert the group and post an ad in the market place.
The roof fits directly on top of the current 4 plastic triangle roof, and covers all of the visible gaps and screw heads. Price for the mod will be $30 including US shipping.
If you would like to pre-order then please PM me and I'll put you on the list, and no payment will be due until I'm able to produce them.
IMG_5222 (resized).JPGIMG_5223 (resized).JPGIMG_5224 (resized).JPG
Hi everyone (and posted in the MODS sub-forum already),
I've got a Stern Jurassic Park Pro and, since owning it, have come up with some free mod ideas that I've consolidated onto my website @ http://www.oakcitypinball.com/mods that I would like to share.
I've been tinkering with mechanical design (being a mechanical engineer) and graphic design (as you'll see I sell some t-shirt designs at Mezel Mods) and thought I would post them in case they are wanted/needed by the community.
Most are based on other ideas I've see out there but have put my own spin on it but here is the short list (thus far!):
Enjoy everyone and any feedback would be appreciated!
Bryan
Anti-stuck ball bracket 3D 2 (resized).pngJP Pop Bumpers 1 (resized).jpgPCB mount 3D (resized).jpgStern JP Helicopter Blades Assembly (resized).jpgThe jaw fell off my TRex today. I found two of the three screws holding the plastic jaw on. I am amazed at how short the screws are. It’s no wonder the jaw fell off. My question is for those of you who have had this happen on your game. How did you reattach the jaw? Did you remove all or part of the T Rex mech to gain access to the screw holes or did you leave the mech in place and reset the screws from below the jaw? Did you replace the stock screws with longer ones? Any and all advice is appreciated. Thank you!
I finally bought my first pinball machine and its a Jurassic Park Pro! About a dozen or so games in and completly in love!
I've noticed the control room shot gets a lot of false positives, like if I hit the escape target hard enough it'll trigger the switch, or sometimes when it smacks into the side of the raptor pit. Is there a way for me to adjust the switch to make it less sensitive?
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