Quoted from StoneyFL:

Experiencing an issue this morning with my two day old JP Premium. Node board 9 (Upper playfield) keeps going down, always when T-Rex is active. Running through the T-Rex motor tests also triggers the failure. Figure it's a loose wire, but jiggling the wires around the T-Rex and on node board 9 by hand doesn't seem to trigger the problem. I'm not sure how to go about diagnosing this efficiently. Can anyone offer some advice? Thanks, and Merry Christmas!

Quoted from Kjarkur:

Merry Christmas to all of you.
I had the issue that the shooting with the plunger did not make the proper u turn.
Turns out that the plunger was not aligned correctly to the shooter lane. Additionally I replaced the green spring with a blue spring. Plunger works now 100 %
Second I had some issues with turning the jeep. After checking I saw that the Newton ball wasn't tight to the playfield. Spending a second washer under the playfield does the trick. Any hit carries now the force via newton ball to the jeep ball.
Hope this helps someone.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Kenswift:

Having a problem where the ball keeps getting stuck here. Anyone have this issue or a solution?
[quoted image]

Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

Reseat all Node board cables. This fixed mine....Dont know if it will help.

Quoted from StoneyFL:

Thanks for the reply. I should have mentioned that I'd already tried reseating all the node board cables, but that didn't help.
I seem to have things working again now, though. As I moved T-Rex from side to side, at the same point it would always cut out node 9; moving it back the other way would instantly fix things. I poked around at the wires entering the back of T-Rex a bit, and everything came back up while I was doing that. It hasn't happened since. I wonder if poking around seated a wire, or if I just delayed another failure. I'm still a little worried that something is loose back there, and I'll hit this again. Y'all have any thoughts?

Quoted from Manny65:

Given your game is only a few days old, I'd suggest contacting your distributor and putting in a support call to Stern - they'll be able to troubleshoot this and send you replacement parts.

Quoted from Manny65:

In the mean time you can go into the setting and disable T-Rex - it won't affect the gameplay at all, so you'll still be able to enjoy Christmas with your new toy

Quoted from Dr_Gonzo:

It's a christmas miracle! At least that's the only way I can explain this one. It had to be a shot from the upper flipper, but I don't know how it got in. I had trouble getting it out. I took a pencil and used the eraser to push it up and out but just hit plastic. Finally got it up and to the right and was able to squeeze it out. I think if I tried to put this ball back in by hand I'd break something
[quoted image]

Quoted from bent98:

Actually you want to use an orange or one with heavy tension, blue has less tension
Spring tension from lowest to highest:
Blue (266-5001-05)
Green (266-5001-04)
Standard (10-148-1)
Orange (266-5001-07)
Purple (266-5001)
Gray/Silver (266-5001-14)
Red (10-148-2)

Quoted from Mike13l:

I'm sure this is somewhere in this thread but couldn't find it. My T-Rex just barely catches on the wire form when it's mouth is open. After a short while the motor can pull it free, however I am concerned this might cause damage over time. Is there a way to slightly adjust the head. Literally talking a couple mm. here.
Thanks!!!!

Quoted from bent98:

This screw fell out. I tried putting it back in but it just spins. Is there a nut that holds it from the back?
[quoted image]

Quoted from bent98:

This screw fell out. I tried putting it back in but it just spins. Is there a nut that holds it from the back?
[quoted image]

Quoted from yzfguy:

"stick a bumps"

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Can you please explain in more detail for those of us who don't know what those are?

Quoted from yzfguy:

The clear rubber stick on dots that stick out about a quarter inch with rounded edges. Someone suggested them earlier here, and they really look like bulbs and light up better than just the "fake" bulb dots painted on the ramp plastics. They kind of illuminate and make them more noticeable like the 3d mods for the raptor pen bulbs.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Can you please explain in more detail for those of us who don't know what those are?

Quoted from Manny65:

I realised what yzfguy was referring to and laughed when you posted you didn't know what they were - given you put us all on to them.
So are you finished modding the JP, or you have more to do?? What's next? Do you do this level of modding on each machine you get?

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Something has been bothering me about the backboard, and I finally had some time to do something about it. ...

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Something has been bothering me about the backboard, and I finally had some time to do something about it. This pin, like all my games, just seems dark in the back. It has the nice greenery hanging down, so I thought it would be nice to throw some light behind those plastics. I engineered a 3D printed solution, but then thought I'd first try something a little simpler. Well, I love the results, so I'm sharing with everyone.
Before doing my DIY I searched around to see what others had done. I noticed there is a Mezel mod that comes in around $45 with shipping. However, I figured I could achieve comparable results for significantly less, which I did. I used stock Comet lighting and did the job for just over $20 shipped. The LED strip I used is the perfect length to cover the full width of the area available without any modifications to the strip.
Parts Needed:
1 x Comet Matrix 50 SMD (20 inches) Cool White Clear Lens 6.3v Lighting Strip (comes with long connecting cable and alligator clips) | https://www.cometpinball.com/products/lighting-strips?variant=32219276410982
1 x Comet Matrix Brightness Adjuster | https://www.cometpinball.com/products/brightness-adjusters?variant=12493660618796
Installation is very simple with just a few steps.
1 - Turn off pin, slide out playfield, rest the playfield on the lockbar rail, and remove all 6 balls.
2 - Adhere the 50 SMD LED strip just behind the upper cabinet rail where the backboard typically sits: peel the backing off, start on the left side of the pin as far as you can, then use your fingers to make sure the strip is stuck well with the wiring to the right. Be sure to run the cable back behind the metal stopper so that it remains invisible and doesn't hang with pulling the playfield in and out. FYI, you will need to do this blind by feel, but it is easily accessed with the playfield slid out.
[quoted image]
3 - Connect the brightness adjuster to the end of the cable then the alligator clips to the end of the brightness adjuster, and drop the wiring down into the cabinet.
4 - Fully lift the playfield to expose the underside, find the GI light socket under the center back plastic, slide the heatshrink off the leads, then connect the alligator clips (I don't think polarity matters as I tried it both ways). FYI, there is plenty of slack in the wiring to allow for full motion of the playfield from gameplay position to the playfield being fully slid out and lifted.
[quoted image]
5 - Turn the pin on (with coin door closed) and check your lighting. You can try to adjust your brightness now by turning the screw with a small Philips head, but you may have to tweak it some with playfield in place (I settled at about 75% brightness).
6 - When you are happy with your install, turn off pin, lower the playfield and slide back in place, and replace all 6 balls. Turn pin on and check your lighting. When happy with everything, put glass back on and enjoy your new illuminated backboard.
All photos below were taken at night in a dark room.
Backboard without PinStadium lighting before backboard light mod
[quoted image]
Backboard with PinStadium lighting before backboard light mod
[quoted image]
Backboard without PinStadium lighting after backboard light mod
[quoted image]
Backboard with PinStadium lighting after backboard light mod
[quoted image]

Quoted from Manny65:

I realised what yzfguy was referring to and laughed when you posted you didn't know what they were - given you put us all on to them.
So are you finished modding the JP, or you have more to do?? What's next? Do you do this level of modding on each machine you get?

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Well, I think I'm just about finished with modding (I am on the waiting list for the T-Rex mod). I may or may not mess with doing something on the raptor tower, and I do have a Brontosaurus on order to install like was previously posted in this thread. I may find something else here or there, but I'm really happy with how it the pin is now.
This is the fourth pin I've owned (it replaced my DE JP), and I've definitely modded all of them significantly. I do lighting mods, backglasses, PinSound hardware and custom orchestrations, 3D printed mods, decal mods, and others which I also make available and sell to other pin owners. I make a multitude of mods for both the games I own and numerous other pins (all of which have come at the request of pin owners who have purchased mods from me for other games). Mod making is just a hobby for me, and I use all of the proceeds to support my pinball and other hobbies.

Quoted from StoneyCreek:

as a customer, I'm happy with your work! What are my options for replacing the raptor tower roof? a rare air ball hit the corner of the tower roof ...which appears to be 4 pieces...and cracked of the corner of two of the pieces at the back left side. I like the grass-looking mod you made, but understand it only works on another mezelmod roof ( or something like that.) any suggestions?

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Something has been bothering me about the backboard, and I finally had some time to do something about it. This pin, like all my games, just seems dark in the back. It has the greenery hanging down, so I thought it would be nice to throw some light behind those plastics. I engineered a 3D printed solution, but then thought I'd first try something a little simpler. Well, I love the results, so I'm sharing with everyone.
Before doing my DIY I searched around to see what others had done. I noticed there is a Mezel mod that comes in around $45 with shipping. I didn't bother to look to see exactly how they did theirs, but by seeing the lone photo for the item I figured I could achieve comparable results for significantly less . . . which I did. I used stock Comet Matrix lighting parts and did the job for just over $20 shipped. The LED strip I used is the perfect length to cover the full width of the area available without any modifications to the strip.
Parts Needed:
1 x Comet Matrix 50 SMD (20 inches) Cool White Clear Lens 6.3v Lighting Strip (comes with long connecting cable and alligator clips) | https://www.cometpinball.com/products/lighting-strips?variant=32219276410982
1 x Comet Matrix Brightness Adjuster | https://www.cometpinball.com/products/brightness-adjusters?variant=12493660618796
Installation is very simple with just a few steps.
1 - Turn off pin, slide out playfield, rest the playfield on the lockbar rail, and remove all 6 balls.
2 - Adhere the 50 SMD LED strip just behind the upper cabinet rail where the backboard typically sits: peel the backing off, start on the left side of the pin as far as you can, then use your fingers to make sure the strip is stuck well with the wiring to the right. Be sure to run the cable back behind the metal stopper so that it remains invisible and doesn't hang with pulling the playfield in and out. FYI, you will need to do this blind by feel, but it is easily accessed with the playfield slid out.
[quoted image]
3 - Connect the brightness adjuster to the end of the cable then the alligator clips to the end of the brightness adjuster, and drop the wiring down into the cabinet.
4 - Fully lift the playfield to expose the underside, find the GI light socket under the center back plastic, slide the heatshrink off the leads, then connect the alligator clips (I don't think polarity matters as I tried it both ways). FYI, there is plenty of slack in the wiring to allow for full motion of the playfield from gameplay position to the playfield being fully slid out and lifted.
[quoted image]
5 - Turn the pin on (with coin door closed) and check your lighting. You can try to adjust your brightness now by turning the screw with a small Philips head, but you may have to tweak it some with playfield in place (I settled at about 75% brightness).
6 - When you are happy with your install, turn off pin, lower the playfield and slide back in place, and replace all 6 balls. Turn pin on and check your lighting. When happy with everything, put glass back on and enjoy your new illuminated backboard.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Here are before and after pics, with and without PinStadium lighting (all photos below were taken at night in a dark room).
Backboard without PinStadium lighting before backboard light mod
[quoted image]
Backboard with PinStadium lighting before backboard light mod
[quoted image]
Backboard without PinStadium lighting after backboard light mod
[quoted image]
Backboard with PinStadium lighting after backboard light mod
[quoted image]

Quoted from Kenswift:

Hey all, I somehow lost the screw on the left side of the trex ramp. Can anyone tell me what size it is so I can go buy a new one please? It longer than the one on the right side.
[quoted image]

Quoted from Kenswift:

Hey all, I somehow lost the screw on the left side of the trex ramp. Can anyone tell me what size it is so I can go buy a new one please? It longer than the one on the right side.
[quoted image]

Quoted from mpdpvdpin:

Looks great! What did you use to mount your palm trees? I ordered a bunch but not sure how I’m going to attach them without damaging plastics.

Quoted from yzfguy:

The clear rubber stick on dots that stick out about a quarter inch with rounded edges. Someone suggested them earlier here, and they really look like bulbs and light up better than just the "fake" bulb dots painted on the ramp plastics. They kind of illuminate and make them more noticeable like the 3d mods for the raptor pen bulbs.

Quoted from StoneyFL:

Thanks for the reply. I should have mentioned that I'd already tried reseating all the node board cables, but that didn't help.

I seem to have things working again now, though. As I moved T-Rex from side to side, at the same point it would always cut out node 9; moving it back the other way would instantly fix things. I poked around at the wires entering the back of T-Rex a bit, and everything came back up while I was doing that. It hasn't happened since. I wonder if poking around seated a wire, or if I just delayed another failure. I'm still a little worried that something is loose back there, and I'll hit this again. Y'all have any thoughts?

Quoted from StoneyFL:

Thanks for the reply. I should have mentioned that I'd already tried reseating all the node board cables, but that didn't help.
I seem to have things working again now, though. As I moved T-Rex from side to side, at the same point it would always cut out node 9; moving it back the other way would instantly fix things. I poked around at the wires entering the back of T-Rex a bit, and everything came back up while I was doing that. It hasn't happened since. I wonder if poking around seated a wire, or if I just delayed another failure. I'm still a little worried that something is loose back there, and I'll hit this again. Y'all have any thoughts?

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Something has been bothering me about the backboard, and I finally had some time to do something about it. This pin, like all my games, just seems dark in the back. It has the greenery hanging down, so I thought it would be nice to throw some light behind those plastics. I engineered a 3D printed solution, but then thought I'd first try something a little simpler. Well, I love the results, so I'm sharing with everyone.
Before doing my DIY I searched around to see what others had done. I noticed there is a Mezel mod that comes in around $45 with shipping. I didn't bother to look to see exactly how they did theirs, but by seeing the lone photo for the item I figured I could achieve comparable results for significantly less . . . which I did. I used stock Comet Matrix lighting parts and did the job for just over $20 shipped. The LED strip I used is the perfect length to cover the full width of the area available without any modifications to the strip.
Parts Needed:
1 x Comet Matrix 50 SMD (20 inches) Cool White Clear Lens 6.3v Lighting Strip (comes with long connecting cable and alligator clips) | https://www.cometpinball.com/products/lighting-strips?variant=32219276410982
1 x Comet Matrix Brightness Adjuster | https://www.cometpinball.com/products/brightness-adjusters?variant=12493660618796
Installation is very simple with just a few steps.
1 - Turn off pin, slide out playfield, rest the playfield on the lockbar rail, and remove all 6 balls.
2 - Adhere the 50 SMD LED strip just behind the upper cabinet rail where the backboard typically sits: peel the backing off, start on the left side of the pin as far as you can, then use your fingers to make sure the strip is stuck well with the wiring to the right. Be sure to run the cable back behind the metal stopper so that it remains invisible and doesn't hang with pulling the playfield in and out. FYI, you will need to do this blind by feel, but it is easily accessed with the playfield slid out.
[quoted image]
3 - Connect the brightness adjuster to the end of the cable then the alligator clips to the end of the brightness adjuster, and drop the wiring down into the cabinet.
4 - Fully lift the playfield to expose the underside, find the GI light socket under the center back plastic, slide the heatshrink off the leads, then connect the alligator clips (I don't think polarity matters as I tried it both ways). FYI, there is plenty of slack in the wiring to allow for full motion of the playfield from gameplay position to the playfield being fully slid out and lifted.
[quoted image]
5 - Turn the pin on (with coin door closed) and check your lighting. You can try to adjust your brightness now by turning the screw with a small Philips head, but you may have to tweak it some with playfield in place (I settled at about 75% brightness).
6 - When you are happy with your install, turn off pin, lower the playfield and slide back in place, and replace all 6 balls. Turn pin on and check your lighting. When happy with everything, put glass back on and enjoy your new illuminated backboard.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Here are before and after pics, with and without PinStadium lighting (all photos below were taken at night in a dark room).
Backboard without PinStadium lighting before backboard light mod
[quoted image]
Backboard with PinStadium lighting before backboard light mod
[quoted image]
Backboard without PinStadium lighting after backboard light mod
[quoted image]
Backboard with PinStadium lighting after backboard light mod
[quoted image]

Quoted from ezeltmann:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-pinball-jurassic-park-ultimate-topper#post-6040436
[quoted image]

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Isn't she cute? I almost hate to decapitate her.
[quoted image]

Quoted from FatPanda:

Finally got around to installing the chopper mod. Spent way more time on it than I thought I would lol. Thanks Mr_Tantrum for the tutorial! My blades aren't spinning as well as they use to and I made sure to install the washer/bearing/washer stack correctly. My initial thought is the the bottom washer is binding on the helicopter itself. Does the whole stack need to spin freely or just the bearing? Any other thoughts?
[quoted image]

Quoted from jedi42:

Mine arrived the other day and I was amazed how well they lit up. For such a simple mod, they really make a difference and you notice them lit up during play, where before the light just blended into the plastic. Probably one of the best value for $ mods you can get.
[quoted image]

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

For my install, there is room for the entire stack (washer, bearing, washer) to freely turn. Not sure what else it could be with your install since in my case the chopper is just sitting around the stock assembly. I would suggest looking to see if/where the washer is touching and then sand/grind that area away just a little to avoid making any contact with the chopper. This way, the blades should spin exactly the same whether there is a chopper installed or not (i.e. if you make the adjustments and it still doesn't spin correctly then you have some other problem).

Quoted from Zora:

I installed the heli as well. Possibly the drilled hole in the heli is to small. I drilled it so wide that the washer/bearing combination is not touched. Thus the 3 parts can be moved more to the inside the heli and the larger hole is invisable from the player perspective.
I have another problem. The top screw gets loose after some games and sometimes falls off with all of the wing and parts. Any suggestions?

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I've not had a "screw loose" issue at all (at least with this mod). I don't recall if the blade is somehow locked into position or if it can set at any rotation. I would loosen the screw until you can rotate the blades, then rotate them 360 degrees while pressing down a little to see if there is a locking position and then screw the part down (you may want to grip the bottom of the shaft under the playfield with pliers to ensure you can fully tighten the screw. If there is not a locking position for the blades that you are not positioning correctly (again, I don't recall if there is or isn't), then some blue lock tight will do the trick.