(Topic ID: 248582)

Jurassic Park (Stern 2019) Owners Club. Welcome! To Jurassic park.....

By Scribbles

2 years ago


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#8701 11 months ago
Quoted from StoneyFL:

Experiencing an issue this morning with my two day old JP Premium. Node board 9 (Upper playfield) keeps going down, always when T-Rex is active. Running through the T-Rex motor tests also triggers the failure. Figure it's a loose wire, but jiggling the wires around the T-Rex and on node board 9 by hand doesn't seem to trigger the problem. I'm not sure how to go about diagnosing this efficiently. Can anyone offer some advice? Thanks, and Merry Christmas!

Reseat all Node board cables. This fixed mine....Dont know if it will help.

#8702 11 months ago
Quoted from Kjarkur:

Merry Christmas to all of you.
I had the issue that the shooting with the plunger did not make the proper u turn.
Turns out that the plunger was not aligned correctly to the shooter lane. Additionally I replaced the green spring with a blue spring. Plunger works now 100 %
Second I had some issues with turning the jeep. After checking I saw that the Newton ball wasn't tight to the playfield. Spending a second washer under the playfield does the trick. Any hit carries now the force via newton ball to the jeep ball.
Hope this helps someone.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

While the manual states the orange spring and games still seem to be rolling off the production line with the green spring, I would have thought Stern would have picked this up by now and changed their manufacturing BOM ...

#8703 11 months ago
Quoted from Kenswift:

Having a problem where the ball keeps getting stuck here. Anyone have this issue or a solution?
[quoted image]

As mpdpvdpin commented, the PF angle affects whether the ball will get stuck here. Note that Keith has mentioned that the game was designed for 7 degrees but every game is different and some people find their game better dialed in at a slightly less angle - you just need to play around with what works for you. The other thing is check that you game is level side-to-side as this will also affect getting that ball hung up there.

#8704 11 months ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

Reseat all Node board cables. This fixed mine....Dont know if it will help.

Thanks for the reply. I should have mentioned that I'd already tried reseating all the node board cables, but that didn't help.

I seem to have things working again now, though. As I moved T-Rex from side to side, at the same point it would always cut out node 9; moving it back the other way would instantly fix things. I poked around at the wires entering the back of T-Rex a bit, and everything came back up while I was doing that. It hasn't happened since. I wonder if poking around seated a wire, or if I just delayed another failure. I'm still a little worried that something is loose back there, and I'll hit this again. Y'all have any thoughts?

#8705 11 months ago
Quoted from StoneyFL:

Thanks for the reply. I should have mentioned that I'd already tried reseating all the node board cables, but that didn't help.
I seem to have things working again now, though. As I moved T-Rex from side to side, at the same point it would always cut out node 9; moving it back the other way would instantly fix things. I poked around at the wires entering the back of T-Rex a bit, and everything came back up while I was doing that. It hasn't happened since. I wonder if poking around seated a wire, or if I just delayed another failure. I'm still a little worried that something is loose back there, and I'll hit this again. Y'all have any thoughts?

There has been 1 or 2 posts where owners have mentioned wires becoming detached in T-Rex, however I've not heard of any causing issues with a node board. I'm wondering whether you have a crushed wire in the mech. Given your game is only a few days old, I'd suggest contacting your distributor and putting in a support call to Stern - they'll be able to troubleshoot this and send you replacement parts. In the mean time you can go into the setting and disable T-Rex - it won't affect the gameplay at all, so you'll still be able to enjoy Christmas with your new toy

#8706 11 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Given your game is only a few days old, I'd suggest contacting your distributor and putting in a support call to Stern - they'll be able to troubleshoot this and send you replacement parts.

Definitely, will do. I was mainly trying to get things in a decent state for the holiday weekend. And, on that note...

Quoted from Manny65:

In the mean time you can go into the setting and disable T-Rex - it won't affect the gameplay at all, so you'll still be able to enjoy Christmas with your new toy

Great point, I didn't even think of that! Luckily the game has continued to operate flawlessly since my complex finger-pokey fix, but if things go sideways again this weekend that'll be good to keep in mind.

#8707 11 months ago

It's a christmas miracle! At least that's the only way I can explain this one. It had to be a shot from the upper flipper, but I don't know how it got in. I had trouble getting it out. I took a pencil and used the eraser to push it up and out but just hit plastic. Finally got it up and to the right and was able to squeeze it out. I think if I tried to put this ball back in by hand I'd break something

20201225_003809 (resized).jpg
#8708 11 months ago
Quoted from Dr_Gonzo:

It's a christmas miracle! At least that's the only way I can explain this one. It had to be a shot from the upper flipper, but I don't know how it got in. I had trouble getting it out. I took a pencil and used the eraser to push it up and out but just hit plastic. Finally got it up and to the right and was able to squeeze it out. I think if I tried to put this ball back in by hand I'd break something
[quoted image]

Yep I've had a couple of those - clearly hit just at the right spot and force to push the clear plastic up enough for the ball to squeeze in there.

#8709 11 months ago
Quoted from bent98:

Actually you want to use an orange or one with heavy tension, blue has less tension
Spring tension from lowest to highest:
Blue (266-5001-05)
Green (266-5001-04)
Standard (10-148-1)
Orange (266-5001-07)
Purple (266-5001)
Gray/Silver (266-5001-14)
Red (10-148-2)

Thanks for the heads up.

https://shop.thepinwitch.com/advanced_search_result.php?categories_id=0&keywords=Shooter+spring+inner+&inc_subcat=1

Don't know, but we have here another categorization of colors and tension.

The blue one has much more tension compared to the green one.

In fact it doesn't matter on this game when the plunger is in the correct position.

#8710 11 months ago

I'm sure this is somewhere in this thread but couldn't find it. My T-Rex just barely catches on the wire form when it's mouth is open. After a short while the motor can pull it free, however I am concerned this might cause damage over time. Is there a way to slightly adjust the head. Literally talking a couple mm. here.

Thanks!!!!

#8711 11 months ago
Quoted from Mike13l:

I'm sure this is somewhere in this thread but couldn't find it. My T-Rex just barely catches on the wire form when it's mouth is open. After a short while the motor can pull it free, however I am concerned this might cause damage over time. Is there a way to slightly adjust the head. Literally talking a couple mm. here.
Thanks!!!!

Maybe try playing with the T-Rex right position ticks near the end of the feature adjustments. I believe setting the number to negative will restrict his max right position.

#8712 11 months ago

Found a glitch in Sterns Jurassic Park code. Going to email them Monday. In the utilities menu, if I go to change the options where the game prices are displayed, there is an option to show a $ as in $1.00 versus 1.00 on the LCD. If I choose the $, the software locks up, and I can't get out of it. I have to shut the machine off. Upon restart, it goes into a reboot loop, and never starts. I have to reload the code with a full reload, not a quick load. Been that way the last 2 code releases. Maybe earlier for all I know. I just put bill acceptors in my Sterns starting about 4 months ago.

#8713 11 months ago

This screw fell out. I tried putting it back in but it just spins. Is there a nut that holds it from the back?

hole (resized).jpg
#8714 11 months ago
Quoted from bent98:

This screw fell out. I tried putting it back in but it just spins. Is there a nut that holds it from the back?
[quoted image]

No there is no nut - it taps into the black opto plastic bracket, which can become stripped. Replacement brackets are available online or you can try putting a small piece of wood (eg match stick) into the hole to help the screw grip.

#8715 11 months ago
Quoted from bent98:

This screw fell out. I tried putting it back in but it just spins. Is there a nut that holds it from the back?
[quoted image]

Same thing happened to me. I used a slightly larger screw and it was fine.

#8716 11 months ago

Put my stick a bumps on today, man... They really do look nice!

#8717 11 months ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

"stick a bumps"

Can you please explain in more detail for those of us who don't know what those are?

#8718 11 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Can you please explain in more detail for those of us who don't know what those are?

The clear rubber stick on dots that stick out about a quarter inch with rounded edges. Someone suggested them earlier here, and they really look like bulbs and light up better than just the "fake" bulb dots painted on the ramp plastics. They kind of illuminate and make them more noticeable like the 3d mods for the raptor pen bulbs.

#8719 11 months ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

The clear rubber stick on dots that stick out about a quarter inch with rounded edges. Someone suggested them earlier here, and they really look like bulbs and light up better than just the "fake" bulb dots painted on the ramp plastics. They kind of illuminate and make them more noticeable like the 3d mods for the raptor pen bulbs.

Oh, actually I'm the one that sells the orange ones for the raptor pit, and provided an Amazon link for the clear ones to use on the sign lights. I just didn't know them by how you referred to them. You are right in that they are a simple and clean mod that has a very nice impact.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/166#post-5978681

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/166#post-5978681

#8720 11 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Can you please explain in more detail for those of us who don't know what those are?

I realised what yzfguy was referring to and laughed when you posted you didn't know what they were - given you put us all on to them.

So are you finished modding the JP, or you have more to do?? What's next? Do you do this level of modding on each machine you get?

13
#8721 11 months ago

Something has been bothering me about the backboard, and I finally had some time to do something about it. This pin, like all my games, just seems dark in the back. It has the greenery hanging down, so I thought it would be nice to throw some light behind those plastics. I engineered a 3D printed solution, but then thought I'd first try something a little simpler. Well, I love the results, so I'm sharing with everyone.

Before doing my DIY I searched around to see what others had done. I noticed there is a Mezel mod that comes in around $45 with shipping. I didn't bother to look to see exactly how they did theirs, but by seeing the lone photo for the item I figured I could achieve comparable results for significantly less . . . which I did. I used stock Comet Matrix lighting parts and did the job for just over $20 shipped. The LED strip I used is the perfect length to cover the full width of the area available without any modifications to the strip.

Parts Needed:
1 x Comet Matrix 50 SMD (20 inches) Cool White Clear Lens 6.3v Lighting Strip (comes with long connecting cable and alligator clips) | https://www.cometpinball.com/products/lighting-strips?variant=32219276410982
1 x Comet Matrix Brightness Adjuster | https://www.cometpinball.com/products/brightness-adjusters?variant=12493660618796

Installation is very simple with just a few steps.
1 - Turn off pin, slide out playfield, rest the playfield on the lockbar rail, and remove all 6 balls.
2 - Adhere the 50 SMD LED strip just behind the upper cabinet rail where the backboard typically sits: peel the backing off, start on the left side of the pin as far as you can, then use your fingers to make sure the strip is stuck well with the wiring to the right. Be sure to run the cable back behind the metal stopper so that it remains invisible and doesn't hang with pulling the playfield in and out. FYI, you will need to do this blind by feel, but it is easily accessed with the playfield slid out.
IMG_5158 (resized).JPG
3 - Connect the brightness adjuster to the end of the cable then the alligator clips to the end of the brightness adjuster, and drop the wiring down into the cabinet.
4 - Fully lift the playfield to expose the underside, find the GI light socket under the center back plastic, slide the heatshrink off the leads, then connect the alligator clips (I don't think polarity matters as I tried it both ways). FYI, there is plenty of slack in the wiring to allow for full motion of the playfield from gameplay position to the playfield being fully slid out and lifted.
IMG_5162 (resized).JPG
5 - Turn the pin on (with coin door closed) and check your lighting. You can try to adjust your brightness now by turning the screw with a small Philips head, but you may have to tweak it some with playfield in place (I settled at about 75% brightness).
6 - When you are happy with your install, turn off pin, lower the playfield and slide back in place, and replace all 6 balls. Turn pin on and check your lighting. When happy with everything, put glass back on and enjoy your new illuminated backboard.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Here are before and after pics, with and without PinStadium lighting (all photos below were taken at night in a dark room).

Backboard without PinStadium lighting before backboard light mod
IMG_5161 (resized).JPG

Backboard with PinStadium lighting before backboard light mod
IMG_5160 (resized).JPG

Backboard without PinStadium lighting after backboard light mod
IMG_5164 (resized).JPG

Backboard with PinStadium lighting after backboard light mod
IMG_5165 (resized).JPG

#8722 11 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

I realised what yzfguy was referring to and laughed when you posted you didn't know what they were - given you put us all on to them.
So are you finished modding the JP, or you have more to do?? What's next? Do you do this level of modding on each machine you get?

So did I, I thought I was losing my mind!

#8723 11 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Something has been bothering me about the backboard, and I finally had some time to do something about it. ...

Nice job - looks good! Thanks for sharing.

#8724 11 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Something has been bothering me about the backboard, and I finally had some time to do something about it. This pin, like all my games, just seems dark in the back. It has the nice greenery hanging down, so I thought it would be nice to throw some light behind those plastics. I engineered a 3D printed solution, but then thought I'd first try something a little simpler. Well, I love the results, so I'm sharing with everyone.
Before doing my DIY I searched around to see what others had done. I noticed there is a Mezel mod that comes in around $45 with shipping. However, I figured I could achieve comparable results for significantly less, which I did. I used stock Comet lighting and did the job for just over $20 shipped. The LED strip I used is the perfect length to cover the full width of the area available without any modifications to the strip.
Parts Needed:
1 x Comet Matrix 50 SMD (20 inches) Cool White Clear Lens 6.3v Lighting Strip (comes with long connecting cable and alligator clips) | https://www.cometpinball.com/products/lighting-strips?variant=32219276410982
1 x Comet Matrix Brightness Adjuster | https://www.cometpinball.com/products/brightness-adjusters?variant=12493660618796
Installation is very simple with just a few steps.
1 - Turn off pin, slide out playfield, rest the playfield on the lockbar rail, and remove all 6 balls.
2 - Adhere the 50 SMD LED strip just behind the upper cabinet rail where the backboard typically sits: peel the backing off, start on the left side of the pin as far as you can, then use your fingers to make sure the strip is stuck well with the wiring to the right. Be sure to run the cable back behind the metal stopper so that it remains invisible and doesn't hang with pulling the playfield in and out. FYI, you will need to do this blind by feel, but it is easily accessed with the playfield slid out.
[quoted image]
3 - Connect the brightness adjuster to the end of the cable then the alligator clips to the end of the brightness adjuster, and drop the wiring down into the cabinet.
4 - Fully lift the playfield to expose the underside, find the GI light socket under the center back plastic, slide the heatshrink off the leads, then connect the alligator clips (I don't think polarity matters as I tried it both ways). FYI, there is plenty of slack in the wiring to allow for full motion of the playfield from gameplay position to the playfield being fully slid out and lifted.
[quoted image]
5 - Turn the pin on (with coin door closed) and check your lighting. You can try to adjust your brightness now by turning the screw with a small Philips head, but you may have to tweak it some with playfield in place (I settled at about 75% brightness).
6 - When you are happy with your install, turn off pin, lower the playfield and slide back in place, and replace all 6 balls. Turn pin on and check your lighting. When happy with everything, put glass back on and enjoy your new illuminated backboard.
All photos below were taken at night in a dark room.
Backboard without PinStadium lighting before backboard light mod
[quoted image]
Backboard with PinStadium lighting before backboard light mod
[quoted image]
Backboard without PinStadium lighting after backboard light mod
[quoted image]
Backboard with PinStadium lighting after backboard light mod
[quoted image]

Nicely done and brilliantly documented for everyone! Thanks for putting the time in to share this and all your other enhancements

#8725 11 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

I realised what yzfguy was referring to and laughed when you posted you didn't know what they were - given you put us all on to them.
So are you finished modding the JP, or you have more to do?? What's next? Do you do this level of modding on each machine you get?

Well, I think I'm just about finished with modding (I am on the waiting list for the T-Rex mod). I may or may not mess with doing something on the raptor tower, and I do have a Brontosaurus on order to install like was previously posted in this thread. I may find something else here or there, but I'm really happy with how it the pin is now.

This is the fourth pin I've owned (it replaced my DE JP), and I've definitely modded all of them significantly. I do lighting mods, backglasses, PinSound hardware and custom orchestrations, 3D printed mods, decal mods, and others which I also make available and sell to other pin owners. I make a multitude of mods for both the games I own and numerous other pins (all of which have come at the request of pin owners who have purchased mods from me for other games). Mod making is just a hobby for me, and I use all of the proceeds to support my pinball and other hobbies.

#8726 11 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Well, I think I'm just about finished with modding (I am on the waiting list for the T-Rex mod). I may or may not mess with doing something on the raptor tower, and I do have a Brontosaurus on order to install like was previously posted in this thread. I may find something else here or there, but I'm really happy with how it the pin is now.
This is the fourth pin I've owned (it replaced my DE JP), and I've definitely modded all of them significantly. I do lighting mods, backglasses, PinSound hardware and custom orchestrations, 3D printed mods, decal mods, and others which I also make available and sell to other pin owners. I make a multitude of mods for both the games I own and numerous other pins (all of which have come at the request of pin owners who have purchased mods from me for other games). Mod making is just a hobby for me, and I use all of the proceeds to support my pinball and other hobbies.

as a customer, I'm happy with your work! What are my options for replacing the raptor tower roof? a rare air ball hit the corner of the tower roof ...which appears to be 4 pieces...and cracked of the corner of two of the pieces at the back left side. I like the grass-looking mod you made, but understand it only works on another mezelmod roof ( or something like that.) any suggestions?

#8727 11 months ago
Quoted from StoneyCreek:

as a customer, I'm happy with your work! What are my options for replacing the raptor tower roof? a rare air ball hit the corner of the tower roof ...which appears to be 4 pieces...and cracked of the corner of two of the pieces at the back left side. I like the grass-looking mod you made, but understand it only works on another mezelmod roof ( or something like that.) any suggestions?

Yeah, I've not done anything with the raptor tower yet, and in the end may not do a full replacement. I like the Mezel version, but just seems a little more than what I want to pay for what it is. I don't actually mind the OEM, but it would be nice if I could give it a new lid. The thatch roof was originally developed upon request of a Mezel tower owner that asked if I could come up with something to cover the holes in the Mezel "metal" roof. I've not thought about trying to design a version as an OEM replacement, but maybe I can come up with something similar for it. The current OEM fastening system (4 small screws to secure 4 plastic triangles) doesn't really lend itself to how I make the roof now. What I might do is just use adhesive (like double-sided tape) where the roof sits on top of the existing one but will be secured by sticking to it. The angles and sizes are different than the Mezel version, so it will take some measuring, designing, and testing to get it right. A version for the Stern tower would most likely not have the speaker I include with the Mezel version, as it's dual purpose is to cover the hole in the roof while also securing my roof to the Mezel tower.

#8728 11 months ago

Looks great! What did you use to mount your palm trees? I ordered a bunch but not sure how I’m going to attach them without damaging plastics.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Something has been bothering me about the backboard, and I finally had some time to do something about it. This pin, like all my games, just seems dark in the back. It has the greenery hanging down, so I thought it would be nice to throw some light behind those plastics. I engineered a 3D printed solution, but then thought I'd first try something a little simpler. Well, I love the results, so I'm sharing with everyone.
Before doing my DIY I searched around to see what others had done. I noticed there is a Mezel mod that comes in around $45 with shipping. I didn't bother to look to see exactly how they did theirs, but by seeing the lone photo for the item I figured I could achieve comparable results for significantly less . . . which I did. I used stock Comet Matrix lighting parts and did the job for just over $20 shipped. The LED strip I used is the perfect length to cover the full width of the area available without any modifications to the strip.
Parts Needed:
1 x Comet Matrix 50 SMD (20 inches) Cool White Clear Lens 6.3v Lighting Strip (comes with long connecting cable and alligator clips) | https://www.cometpinball.com/products/lighting-strips?variant=32219276410982
1 x Comet Matrix Brightness Adjuster | https://www.cometpinball.com/products/brightness-adjusters?variant=12493660618796
Installation is very simple with just a few steps.
1 - Turn off pin, slide out playfield, rest the playfield on the lockbar rail, and remove all 6 balls.
2 - Adhere the 50 SMD LED strip just behind the upper cabinet rail where the backboard typically sits: peel the backing off, start on the left side of the pin as far as you can, then use your fingers to make sure the strip is stuck well with the wiring to the right. Be sure to run the cable back behind the metal stopper so that it remains invisible and doesn't hang with pulling the playfield in and out. FYI, you will need to do this blind by feel, but it is easily accessed with the playfield slid out.
[quoted image]
3 - Connect the brightness adjuster to the end of the cable then the alligator clips to the end of the brightness adjuster, and drop the wiring down into the cabinet.
4 - Fully lift the playfield to expose the underside, find the GI light socket under the center back plastic, slide the heatshrink off the leads, then connect the alligator clips (I don't think polarity matters as I tried it both ways). FYI, there is plenty of slack in the wiring to allow for full motion of the playfield from gameplay position to the playfield being fully slid out and lifted.
[quoted image]
5 - Turn the pin on (with coin door closed) and check your lighting. You can try to adjust your brightness now by turning the screw with a small Philips head, but you may have to tweak it some with playfield in place (I settled at about 75% brightness).
6 - When you are happy with your install, turn off pin, lower the playfield and slide back in place, and replace all 6 balls. Turn pin on and check your lighting. When happy with everything, put glass back on and enjoy your new illuminated backboard.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Here are before and after pics, with and without PinStadium lighting (all photos below were taken at night in a dark room).
Backboard without PinStadium lighting before backboard light mod
[quoted image]
Backboard with PinStadium lighting before backboard light mod
[quoted image]
Backboard without PinStadium lighting after backboard light mod
[quoted image]
Backboard with PinStadium lighting after backboard light mod
[quoted image]

#8729 11 months ago

Hey all, I somehow lost the screw on the left side of the trex ramp. Can anyone tell me what size it is so I can go buy a new one please? It longer than the one on the right side.

23677F7A-7818-4E00-A7AD-DD512E42AF04 (resized).jpeg

#8730 11 months ago
Quoted from Kenswift:

Hey all, I somehow lost the screw on the left side of the trex ramp. Can anyone tell me what size it is so I can go buy a new one please? It longer than the one on the right side.
[quoted image]

I’d just take the one off the right post and take it to Home Depot to find a copy of it. Or just order a pinball screw/washer kit (I believe either titan or pinball life have a good one) and one of those in the kit will fit. Either 6-32 or 8-32 machine screw, probably 1/2-1”.

#8731 11 months ago
Quoted from Kenswift:

Hey all, I somehow lost the screw on the left side of the trex ramp. Can anyone tell me what size it is so I can go buy a new one please? It longer than the one on the right side.
[quoted image]

I would personally try to find the lost screw to avoid possible playfield damage and/or it shorting out something. I generally will spend a good amount of time looking before I give up. Haven't given up yet. Telescopic Magnet tool comes in handy.

#8732 11 months ago

Can someone who owns a Pro take a clear close up pic of the Pteranodon (Blue bird) on the side of the cabinet art?

#8733 11 months ago
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:

Looks great! What did you use to mount your palm trees? I ordered a bunch but not sure how I’m going to attach them without damaging plastics.

Here is how I did mine: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/140#post-5863800

#8734 11 months ago

Mine arrived the other day and I was amazed how well they lit up. For such a simple mod, they really make a difference and you notice them lit up during play, where before the light just blended into the plastic. Probably one of the best value for $ mods you can get.

Quoted from yzfguy:

The clear rubber stick on dots that stick out about a quarter inch with rounded edges. Someone suggested them earlier here, and they really look like bulbs and light up better than just the "fake" bulb dots painted on the ramp plastics. They kind of illuminate and make them more noticeable like the 3d mods for the raptor pen bulbs.

20201226_124418 (resized).jpg
#8735 11 months ago
Quoted from StoneyFL:

Thanks for the reply. I should have mentioned that I'd already tried reseating all the node board cables, but that didn't help.

I seem to have things working again now, though. As I moved T-Rex from side to side, at the same point it would always cut out node 9; moving it back the other way would instantly fix things. I poked around at the wires entering the back of T-Rex a bit, and everything came back up while I was doing that. It hasn't happened since. I wonder if poking around seated a wire, or if I just delayed another failure. I'm still a little worried that something is loose back there, and I'll hit this again. Y'all have any thoughts?

I had the same thing happen intermittently. There was a loose wire inside the T-Rex's mouth. It's be resoldered and there haven't been any issues since. You'll need to take it apart to fix it, but it sounds like that's the issue you're experiencing.

#8736 11 months ago
Quoted from StoneyFL:

Thanks for the reply. I should have mentioned that I'd already tried reseating all the node board cables, but that didn't help.
I seem to have things working again now, though. As I moved T-Rex from side to side, at the same point it would always cut out node 9; moving it back the other way would instantly fix things. I poked around at the wires entering the back of T-Rex a bit, and everything came back up while I was doing that. It hasn't happened since. I wonder if poking around seated a wire, or if I just delayed another failure. I'm still a little worried that something is loose back there, and I'll hit this again. Y'all have any thoughts?

Had a similar issue with my TMNT. The node board kept resetting with a 2 second interval. Eventually a GI connected starpost light was connected to a controlled GI led which shorted each other. (Previous owner added those starpost leds and I guess during transit it got bent somehow). After removing the short all worked fine again.

So maybe in your case the movement of the dino is creating a short of some kind resulting in the reboot of that node board.

#8737 11 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Something has been bothering me about the backboard, and I finally had some time to do something about it. This pin, like all my games, just seems dark in the back. It has the greenery hanging down, so I thought it would be nice to throw some light behind those plastics. I engineered a 3D printed solution, but then thought I'd first try something a little simpler. Well, I love the results, so I'm sharing with everyone.
Before doing my DIY I searched around to see what others had done. I noticed there is a Mezel mod that comes in around $45 with shipping. I didn't bother to look to see exactly how they did theirs, but by seeing the lone photo for the item I figured I could achieve comparable results for significantly less . . . which I did. I used stock Comet Matrix lighting parts and did the job for just over $20 shipped. The LED strip I used is the perfect length to cover the full width of the area available without any modifications to the strip.
Parts Needed:
1 x Comet Matrix 50 SMD (20 inches) Cool White Clear Lens 6.3v Lighting Strip (comes with long connecting cable and alligator clips) | https://www.cometpinball.com/products/lighting-strips?variant=32219276410982
1 x Comet Matrix Brightness Adjuster | https://www.cometpinball.com/products/brightness-adjusters?variant=12493660618796
Installation is very simple with just a few steps.
1 - Turn off pin, slide out playfield, rest the playfield on the lockbar rail, and remove all 6 balls.
2 - Adhere the 50 SMD LED strip just behind the upper cabinet rail where the backboard typically sits: peel the backing off, start on the left side of the pin as far as you can, then use your fingers to make sure the strip is stuck well with the wiring to the right. Be sure to run the cable back behind the metal stopper so that it remains invisible and doesn't hang with pulling the playfield in and out. FYI, you will need to do this blind by feel, but it is easily accessed with the playfield slid out.
[quoted image]
3 - Connect the brightness adjuster to the end of the cable then the alligator clips to the end of the brightness adjuster, and drop the wiring down into the cabinet.
4 - Fully lift the playfield to expose the underside, find the GI light socket under the center back plastic, slide the heatshrink off the leads, then connect the alligator clips (I don't think polarity matters as I tried it both ways). FYI, there is plenty of slack in the wiring to allow for full motion of the playfield from gameplay position to the playfield being fully slid out and lifted.
[quoted image]
5 - Turn the pin on (with coin door closed) and check your lighting. You can try to adjust your brightness now by turning the screw with a small Philips head, but you may have to tweak it some with playfield in place (I settled at about 75% brightness).
6 - When you are happy with your install, turn off pin, lower the playfield and slide back in place, and replace all 6 balls. Turn pin on and check your lighting. When happy with everything, put glass back on and enjoy your new illuminated backboard.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Here are before and after pics, with and without PinStadium lighting (all photos below were taken at night in a dark room).
Backboard without PinStadium lighting before backboard light mod
[quoted image]
Backboard with PinStadium lighting before backboard light mod
[quoted image]
Backboard without PinStadium lighting after backboard light mod
[quoted image]
Backboard with PinStadium lighting after backboard light mod
[quoted image]

Add to cart!! Thanks

#8741 11 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Isn't she cute? I almost hate to decapitate her.
[quoted image]

DO IT, DO IT!!

#8742 11 months ago

Finally got around to installing the chopper mod. Spent way more time on it than I thought I would lol. Thanks Mr_Tantrum for the tutorial! My blades aren't spinning as well as they use to and I made sure to install the washer/bearing/washer stack correctly. My initial thought is the the bottom washer is binding on the helicopter itself. Does the whole stack need to spin freely or just the bearing? Any other thoughts?

20201228_105946 (resized).jpg
#8743 11 months ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Finally got around to installing the chopper mod. Spent way more time on it than I thought I would lol. Thanks Mr_Tantrum for the tutorial! My blades aren't spinning as well as they use to and I made sure to install the washer/bearing/washer stack correctly. My initial thought is the the bottom washer is binding on the helicopter itself. Does the whole stack need to spin freely or just the bearing? Any other thoughts?
[quoted image]

For my install, there is room for the entire stack (washer, bearing, washer) to freely turn. Not sure what else it could be with your install since in my case the chopper is just sitting around the stock assembly. I would suggest looking to see if/where the washer is touching and then sand/grind that area away just a little to avoid making any contact with the chopper. This way, the blades should spin exactly the same whether there is a chopper installed or not (i.e. if you make the adjustments and it still doesn't spin correctly then you have some other problem).

#8744 11 months ago
Quoted from jedi42:

Mine arrived the other day and I was amazed how well they lit up. For such a simple mod, they really make a difference and you notice them lit up during play, where before the light just blended into the plastic. Probably one of the best value for $ mods you can get.
[quoted image]

One other thing I might suggest, and it may just be your camera angle, but you can adjust the positioning of the LEDs from below by loosening the black mounting screw, positioning the LED, then tightening the screw. Mine were off center a little, and I was able to align them pretty much dead center to the circle.

#8745 11 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

For my install, there is room for the entire stack (washer, bearing, washer) to freely turn. Not sure what else it could be with your install since in my case the chopper is just sitting around the stock assembly. I would suggest looking to see if/where the washer is touching and then sand/grind that area away just a little to avoid making any contact with the chopper. This way, the blades should spin exactly the same whether there is a chopper installed or not (i.e. if you make the adjustments and it still doesn't spin correctly then you have some other problem).

I installed the heli as well. Possibly the drilled hole in the heli is to small. I drilled it so wide that the washer/bearing combination is not touched. Thus the 3 parts can be moved more to the inside the heli and the larger hole is invisable from the player perspective.

I have another problem. The top screw gets loose after some games and sometimes falls off with all of the wing and parts. Any suggestions?

#8746 11 months ago
Quoted from Zora:

I installed the heli as well. Possibly the drilled hole in the heli is to small. I drilled it so wide that the washer/bearing combination is not touched. Thus the 3 parts can be moved more to the inside the heli and the larger hole is invisable from the player perspective.
I have another problem. The top screw gets loose after some games and sometimes falls off with all of the wing and parts. Any suggestions?

I've not had a "screw loose" issue at all (at least with this mod). I don't recall if the blade is somehow locked into position or if it can set at any rotation. I would loosen the screw until you can rotate the blades, then rotate them 360 degrees while pressing down a little to see if there is a locking position and then screw the part down (you may want to grip the bottom of the shaft under the playfield with pliers to ensure you can fully tighten the screw. If there is not a locking position for the blades that you are not positioning correctly (again, I don't recall if there is or isn't), then some blue lock tight will do the trick.

#8747 11 months ago

Ordered my Premium JP today from the Feb run. Can't wait. Think I'm going to put mirror blades on it. Anyone have pics with mirror blades? Look good this way?

11
#8748 11 months ago

My Baby is done. Well maybe 1 or 2 more mods.

jp4 (resized).jpgjp3 (resized).jpgjp1 (resized).jpgjp2 (resized).jpg
#8749 11 months ago

Well done, looks beautiful!

#8750 11 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I've not had a "screw loose" issue at all (at least with this mod). I don't recall if the blade is somehow locked into position or if it can set at any rotation. I would loosen the screw until you can rotate the blades, then rotate them 360 degrees while pressing down a little to see if there is a locking position and then screw the part down (you may want to grip the bottom of the shaft under the playfield with pliers to ensure you can fully tighten the screw. If there is not a locking position for the blades that you are not positioning correctly (again, I don't recall if there is or isn't), then some blue lock tight will do the trick.

Thank you for your comments. I will try again.

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