(Topic ID: 248582)

Jurassic Park (Stern 2019) Owners Club. Welcome! To Jurassic park.....

By Scribbles

2 years ago


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  • Latest reply 21 minutes ago by RETROCENGO
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There are 12,958 posts in this topic. You are on page 170 of 260.
#8451 1 year ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

I haven't been following this thread, but why is my JP Pro code update not looking like the one on You Tube? Im not seeing any of the movie clips.

If you are looking for movie clips ect you need to get the Tim code. Just ask him to share, burn to a SD card and donate some $ to him, it is well worth it and takes the game to a whole new level. Search for the following thread to get the details: Stern Jurassic Park 2 Custom Audio Project

#8452 1 year ago
Quoted from 2manyhobbies:

If you are looking for movie clips ect you need to get the Tim code. Just ask him to share, burn to a SD card and donate some $ to him, it is well worth it and takes the game to a whole new level. Search for the following thread to get the details: Stern Jurassic Park 2 Custom Audio Project

Thank you. You are very kind compared to the last guy.

#8453 1 year ago

I just finished up doing the die cast Jeep mod but also decided to mount it opposite of the factory placement. I never liked looking at the back of the truck all the time. Easy install and works perfect.

1B5909DF-1335-494B-B0ED-A1BFACF68C4B (resized).jpeg4949A4E4-5DD9-4784-8923-3F917EE78B97 (resized).jpeg
#8454 1 year ago
Quoted from RetroGamerJP:

I just finished up doing the die cast Jeep mod but also decided to mount it opposite of the factory placement. I never liked looking at the back of the truck all the time. Easy install and works perfect.
[quoted image][quoted image]

...but now it's driving in the opposite direction of the arrows.

#8455 1 year ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

Thank you. You are very kind compared to the last guy.

LOL. Yeah I know how overwhelming it can be. You will still be overwhelmed with that thread but a lot less pages. Start with page 26 of the thread. Key rules do not ever share his mod, and read from that page to 30 and you should have all the details you need. Good luck!

#8456 1 year ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:...but now it's driving in the opposite direction of the arrows.

Yeah, I really don’t think that’s going to make a difference in my already abysmal scoring.

#8457 1 year ago
Quoted from RetroGamerJP:

I just finished up doing the die cast Jeep mod but also decided to mount it opposite of the factory placement. I never liked looking at the back of the truck all the time. Easy install and works perfect.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I thought about doing this too, but the driving away from instead of towards orientation threw my mind off a little. I do think it looks good, but we need to figure a way to illuminate the headlights and taillights.

#8458 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I thought about doing this too, but the driving away from instead of towards orientation threw my mind off a little. I do think it looks good, but we need to figure a way to illuminate the headlights and taillights.

Maybe print a ring with a dragging contact that drags possitive and negative "wires" over another ring ? Or use the shaft for negative?

#8459 1 year ago

Maybe a contraption like this?

forum-post (resized).png
#8460 1 year ago
Quoted from jorro:

Maybe print a ring with a dragging contact that drags possitive and negative "wires" over another ring ? Or use the shaft for negative?

I'm actually exploring another option, but it may take some time. I'll keep everyone posted if I make any progress. In the meantime, if you want to pursue your idea that would be great too.

#8461 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I'm actually exploring another option, but it may take some time. I'll keep everyone posted if I make any progress. In the meantime, if you want to pursue your idea that would be great too.

Consider using a mercury switch and a N-cell battery. The tiny led lights could flash with any hit, and the battery might last a year or more. You can see a similar approach with those light-up kids sneakers which you can find in the stores.

#8462 1 year ago

Joined the club yesterday. Just when I was starting to figure out Avengers I got this to distract me. Quick question I am not sure if this has been answered here. Is there an adjustment for the t-Rex it is only catching the ball about 10-20% of the time. Thanks

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#8463 1 year ago
Quoted from Boomshockalocka:

Joined the club yesterday. Just when I was starting to figure out Avengers I got this to distract me. Quick question I am not sure if this has been answered here. Is there an adjustment for the t-Rex it is only catching the ball about 10-20% of the time. Thanks
[quoted image]

I would search this or the prem le thread for t rex fixes. I decided to fix this permanently by getting a pro

#8464 1 year ago

This T-REX toy is a nice feature, when it works ....still waiting the real solution

#8465 1 year ago
Quoted from Boomshockalocka:

Joined the club yesterday. Just when I was starting to figure out Avengers I got this to distract me. Quick question I am not sure if this has been answered here. Is there an adjustment for the t-Rex it is only catching the ball about 10-20% of the time. Thanks
[quoted image]

Latest code has more adjustments that help T rex.....last settings at the end of Adj menu

#8466 1 year ago
Quoted from Jeanclaudev:

This T-REX toy is a nice feature, when it works ....still waiting the real solution

I'm still trying to figure out how to make the launch work consistently. I have tried everything

#8467 1 year ago

Any ideas here? My ramp cover plastic keeps coming loose. I can loctite the front ramp posts since its a screw going into metal, but this last screw is just going into the plastic of the microswitch.

I was thinking of maybe just putting a dab of hot glue on top of the screw? I don't really need that back area "tight"...but need the screw there so the ramp metal flap on the side of the ramp stays in place.

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#8468 1 year ago

Will a nut fit on the backside, or do you have a longer screw where you could use a nut?

#8469 1 year ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Any ideas here? My ramp cover plastic keeps coming loose. I can loctite the front ramp posts since its a screw going into metal, but this last screw is just going into the plastic of the microswitch.
I was thinking of maybe just putting a dab of hot glue on top of the screw? I don't really need that back area "tight"...but need the screw there so the ramp metal flap on the side of the ramp stays in place.
[quoted image]

Is the screw hole chopped out a bit and unable to hold the screw tight? The opto plastic bracket on some games can get stripped/damaged and are easy enough to replace. Possibly if the front screws have loosened then it may have overloaded that screw in the plastic bracket. I'd suggest replacing the opto bracket and using locktite on the front screws might be enough

#8470 1 year ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Is the screw hole chopped out a bit and unable to hold the screw tight? The opto plastic bracket on some games can get stripped/damaged and are easy enough to replace. Possibly if the front screws have loosened then it may have overloaded that screw in the plastic bracket. I'd suggest replacing the opto bracket and using locktite on the front screws might be enough

Yeah....the plastic bracket must be threaded out now. And I think you are right...its a new pin but its had issues with all 3 screws coming loose, and the front post screws have been loose and must have overloaded the back screw that is holding the opto.

For now, I put loctite on the front screws, and...even though its ghetto, put hot glue on the back screw just to hold it to the plastic.

#8471 1 year ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Any ideas here? My ramp cover plastic keeps coming loose. I can loctite the front ramp posts since its a screw going into metal, but this last screw is just going into the plastic of the microswitch.
I was thinking of maybe just putting a dab of hot glue on top of the screw? I don't really need that back area "tight"...but need the screw there so the ramp metal flap on the side of the ramp stays in place.
[quoted image]

Did you have this apart at some time maybe replacing rubbers or something? Mine does not have the black spacer under that rear area.

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#8472 1 year ago
Quoted from 2manyhobbies:

Did you have this apart at some time maybe replacing rubbers or something? Mine does not have the black spacer under that rear area.
[quoted image]

The whole cover has come off several times from getting loose. I found the black spacer at one point and I couldn't figure out anywhere else where it could have gone, and so I thought it would go there. Especially since the nut under the plastic scraped up the cover on mine. I figured that the spacer was there to protect the cover from getting scratched here, and it got scratched when the spacer was gone.

cover (resized).png

#8473 1 year ago

This is what it looks like on mine now.

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#8474 1 year ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

This is what it looks like on mine now.[quoted image]

Not sure if under warranty, maybe contact Stern. If not I don't see a bolt on the bottom half of the switch, but fearful of taking apart incase I get loose screw. Maybe a longer screw with a nut or order the switch if the thread is built in because that glue looks ugly at this point.

#8475 1 year ago

Took the plunge and ordered a Pro! Should hopefully have it by the end of December. Also got the code form Tim. The only real criticism I saw was the lack of movie callouts and that fixed that! Whenever I go to the arcade this is the game I come back to.

#8476 1 year ago
Quoted from Kenswift:

Took the plunge and ordered a Pro! Should hopefully have it by the end of December. Also got the code form Tim. The only real criticism I saw was the lack of movie callouts and that fixed that! Whenever I go to the arcade this is the game I come back to.

That code makes this the best game ever! I love some of the older games and remakes but they don't beat this game out in my book.

#8477 1 year ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Yeah....the plastic bracket must be threaded out now. And I think you are right...its a new pin but its had issues with all 3 screws coming loose, and the front post screws have been loose and must have overloaded the back screw that is holding the opto.
For now, I put loctite on the front screws, and...even though its ghetto, put hot glue on the back screw just to hold it to the plastic.

I just found a slightly longer bigger screw for mine as the opto threads also stripped, put in a little locktite and whalla...no ghetto glue ...been holding up 2000+ games now

#8478 1 year ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

I just found a slightly longer bigger screw for mine as the opto threads also stripped, put in a little locktite and whalla...no ghetto glue ...been holding up 2000+ games now

Oh nice...I'll see what I have screw wise.

#8479 1 year ago

I did order some mods and some coil stops in anticipation of my new pin. Anything I have to have or know? It’s the Pro. Thanks

#8480 1 year ago

Just scored my first 100,000,000 million game . . . wait a minute, everyone else posting has an extra "0" in their number.

Nevermind.

Seriously, I'm just starting to learn the rules a little on this game and trying to accomplish various goals. I've never owned a pin with so much to it, and I can already tell it's going to take me some time to fully understand it. I'm really loving everything about this game!

#8481 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Just scored my first 100,000,000 million game . . . wait a minute, everyone else posting has an extra "0" in their number.
Nevermind.
Seriously, I'm just starting to learn the rules a little on this game and trying to accomplish various goals. I've never owned a pin with so much to it, and I can already tell it's going to take me some time to fully understand it. I'm really loving everything about this game!

Keep at it! I’ve found that there is so much going on in the game that focusing on your initial strategy of racing thru the paddocks is difficult with all the distractions. The TRex modes, Control room Modes, Raptor and Chaos multi ball etc....are all fun to chase after and pull you away from getting to the Visitor Center. Which I still have not done. I have only logged a high of. 600M+. Still chasing the visitor center. If I could only hit the smart missle shot reliably I think I could clear paddocks a lot faster.
Keeping at it...

#8482 1 year ago

Can someone explain to me what you are supposed to do during start missile attack?

#8483 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Just scored my first 100,000,000 million game . . . wait a minute, everyone else posting has an extra "0" in their number.
Nevermind.
Seriously, I'm just starting to learn the rules a little on this game and trying to accomplish various goals. I've never owned a pin with so much to it, and I can already tell it's going to take me some time to fully understand it. I'm really loving everything about this game!

My first game was 233,000,000 and I have never been able to reach that level again!!! LOL. I guess my beginner's luck has run out and I really need to learn the rules to get to that extra zero!

#8484 1 year ago

Hello, new JP owner and overall pinball newbie here. I'm about 300 games in and my one of my supply drop decals fell off onto the playfield. I tried to remove it by hand, but it's fairly stuck. Any suggestions to remove it without ruining the playfield?

PXL_20201206_155411578 (resized).jpg
#8485 1 year ago

dont worry for the PF, its only double face tape behind the decal...

than use dental floss to remove it

#8486 1 year ago
Quoted from RipleYYY:

dont worry for the PF, its only double face tape behind the decal...

Maybe a tiny bit of heat from a hairdryer.

#8487 1 year ago
Quoted from RetroGamerJP:

Can someone explain to me what you are supposed to do during start missile attack?

This?

Smart Missile: When the left inlane is lit for “Smart Missile”, the inlane up-post will hold the ball and call for a shot to the pops standup target. Once the Smart Missile is activated, you will have 3 seconds to choose what you want the Smart Missile to award using the action button to cycle through the awards; the award chosen when the timer goes to 0 will be given for a successful shot to the target, in addition to 10 million (+5m) for each successful Smart Missile launch. The pops target only remains lit for the Smart Missile award on a very short timer, but it is possible to initially miss it and still get a quick successful second shot. There’s even a tiny grace period to collect the award after the “Smart Missile missed!” callout.

#8488 1 year ago
Quoted from Limdul:

Hello, new JP owner and overall pinball newbie here. I'm about 300 games in and my one of my supply drop decals fell off onto the playfield. I tried to remove it by hand, but it's fairly stuck. Any suggestions to remove it without ruining the playfield?
[quoted image]

It will peel by hand, but if you do mess it up there should be an extra in the bag stapled inside the cabinet by the speaker. Also, before re-applying clean the target surface with alcohol.

#8489 1 year ago
Quoted from Limdul:

Hello, new JP owner and overall pinball newbie here. I'm about 300 games in and my one of my supply drop decals fell off onto the playfield. I tried to remove it by hand, but it's fairly stuck. Any suggestions to remove it without ruining the playfield?
[quoted image]

A quick spray from an upside-down air duster will freeze the adhesive and allow you to very easily remove it if it's that stuck. It will also serve to save the adhesive for reapplication. Then clean the target and reapply.

#8490 1 year ago
Quoted from Scribbles:

Yes. Man, we need to make this one a key post. Easy solution. Basically, raise the playfield, find the jeep mech underneath. Locate the single Allen screw that holds the post to the jeep in place. Loosen screw, carefully, carefully, remove jeep assembly. There will be some nylon washers and such. Pay attention to the order they are in. Once out, remove the washers, wipe everything down thoroughly. Next apply a tiny, and I mean tiny coat of a 100% pure silicone lubricant on the jeep shaft and the nylon washers. DO NOT use wd40 or some type of grease. 100% silicone based lube only. Reassemble the mech leaving just a bit of up and down play in the jeep post. Problem solved. Sounds tough, but it's a 30 minute job, tops.

This worked liked a fakkin champ......thank you!

#8491 1 year ago

I decided it was time to buy a can of 'the best spray lubricant" for a pinball machine, so I thought I would do some research to see how all of the common available sprays compare. Lots of commercial sites recommending their own product obviously, but I found this site to be quite fair:

https://thehomespecial.com/best-silicone-spray/

They recommend the Permatex 80070 Silicon spray, about $12 on Amazon. (close second is WD-Silicon spray, not WD40) Permatex has been around over 100 years and is quite well know in industrial applications... and they are Canadian based (We can tip our hat to our northern friends)

#8492 1 year ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

I decided it was time to buy a can of 'the best spray lubricant" for a pinball machine, so I thought I would do some research to see how all of the common available sprays compare. Lots of commercial sites recommending their own product obviously, but I found this site to be quite fair:
https://thehomespecial.com/best-silicone-spray/
They recommend the Permatex 80070 Silicon spray, about $12 on Amazon. (close second is WD-Silicon spray, not WD40) Permatex has been around over 100 years and is quite well know in industrial applications... and they are Canadian based (We can tip our hat to our northern friends)

For what?

I wouldn't use any spray lubricant anywhere on a pinball machine, it WILL collect coil dust and end up making things much worse. Almost everything is designed to operate dry, if you think it needs lube, something else is likely the problem.
I use a drop of dry teflon superlube here and there on a spinner or like on the truck bearing but sparingly.
There are very few uses for lubricant on a pinball machine.

#8493 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

This?
Smart Missile: When the left inlane is lit for “Smart Missile”, the inlane up-post will hold the ball and call for a shot to the pops standup target. Once the Smart Missile is activated, you will have 3 seconds to choose what you want the Smart Missile to award using the action button to cycle through the awards; the award chosen when the timer goes to 0 will be given for a successful shot to the target, in addition to 10 million (+5m) for each successful Smart Missile launch. The pops target only remains lit for the Smart Missile award on a very short timer, but it is possible to initially miss it and still get a quick successful second shot. There’s even a tiny grace period to collect the award after the “Smart Missile missed!” callout.

Thanks, and what contributes to a successful smart middle hit? Seems every time I’ve done that the missile never hits anything

#8494 1 year ago

Ugh i moved my game and forgot to use my digital pitch gadget to measure it. Whats the pitch suppossed to be on this game?

#8495 1 year ago

7.0 works for me

#8496 1 year ago
Quoted from RetroGamerJP:

Thanks, and what contributes to a successful smart middle hit? Seems every time I’ve done that the missile never hits anything

The Amber Target that sits between the pop bumpers. It's a pretty tight shot.

#8497 1 year ago
Quoted from RetroGamerJP:

Thanks, and what contributes to a successful smart middle hit? Seems every time I’ve done that the missile never hits anything

Hitting this target (you only have a few seconds to do it).

1 (resized).jpg

#8498 1 year ago
Quoted from RetroGamerJP:

Can someone explain to me what you are supposed to do during start missile attack?

smart missle is a one-shot mode. You have to hit the target up inside the Amber bumpers.
You can control the reward by using the action button to cycle thru them.
Clear Paddok, Award CHAOS, etc.
Check the rule set for the order. I usually try to clear the paddock.

#8499 1 year ago

Just had an amazing GC game on my home pin. Greatest ball 2 ever. Lasted about 30 min. Barely snuck in the visitors center shot on ball 3 after catching 8 dinos. Got KOTI and Secure Control room as well. 2 Jeep hits away from Museum Mayhem/Escape Nublar! Visitor Center bonus was 842,000,000 with rescue streak of 32 (43 rescues total).

EB1E15AA-CB45-4597-80F4-BA78211D5390 (resized).jpeg
#8500 1 year ago
Quoted from RetroGamerJP:

Thanks, and what contributes to a successful smart middle hit? Seems every time I’ve done that the missile never hits anything

I think others have addressed this, but one thing is that smart missile is only enabled when the truck facing left - this makes it a very tight shot. If in multi-ball you can try to spin the truck while the missile launch is counting down, to give you an easier shot.

Quoted from StoneyCreek:

smart missle is a one-shot mode. You have to hit the target up inside the Amber bumpers.
You can control the reward by using the action button to cycle thru them.
Clear Paddok, Award CHAOS, etc.
Check the rule set for the order. I usually try to clear the paddock.

Below are the Smart Missile choices (they are all valuable at various places in the game - I typically go for +5 rescues first up which also re-enables smart missile; raptor multiball and chaos are useful not only for scoring but also for accessing control rooms; and clear paddock is most useful if in a super predator paddock or the last paddock before visitor centre)

• Choice 1
o If Chaos Multiball is active or lit - Super Supply Drop - Awards the next item in the Super Supply Drop sequence.
o Otherwise - Complete CHAOS - Awards five CHAOS letters, wrapping back to where your current lit letter was if spelling CHAOS doesn’t light the MB. This does not necessarily immediately start Chaos MB if it lights it; the ball still has to hit the target again.
• Choice 2
o If you’re in a Paddock - Clear Paddock - captures the current dino and collects all remaining rescues for the paddock, adding them to both your rescue total and rescue streak.
o Otherwise - Super Combos - Combos score 5x for the remainder of the ball.
• Choices 3 and 4 - Two different awards from the following options, with the last two not available until some of the earlier options have been collected:
o Rescues - +5 Rescues at first; collecting it can add +10 Rescues to the award pool. May not be a bad first option if you’re good at the Smart Missile shot, considering the +5 automatically relights it.
o Raptor Multiball - Immediately starts Raptor Tri-Ball. This also counts as having gone through the regular sequence of lighting it, meaning you’ll start over at the next difficulty for the next RTB.
o Extra Ball - Immediately awards an extra ball.
o Fossil - Spots a “wildcard” Fossil.
o Super Escape - For the remainder of the ball, “Lite Escape” no longer needs to be qualified using the pops switch (ie, “Lite Escape” will always be flashing if “Escape” is not lit.)
• Choice 5 -
o During any Multiball and / or mode (Control Room / T-Rex), or after Invalid?? was earned - 25 Million - I dunno…
o Otherwise - Invalid?? - Starts Invalid Frenzy immediately, without having to qualify and play all four Control Room modes. Scoring is the same as in the normal Invalid Frenzy and you can still enter your initials by getting a high enough score during this mode. Invalid Frenzy can only be chosen once per game; afterwards, Choice 5 becomes 25 million. This option is disabled during competitive play. If Chaos Multiball is lit at the target, you can stack the two with a successful shot. You can still play a second Invalid Frenzy through the traditional path of lighting it.
• Choice 6 - Abort - selecting this award will deactivate the Smart Missile and the inlane insert will flash instead of being lit solid; you can requalify it (lit solid again) with two shots to the Truck.

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