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(Topic ID: 248582)

Jurassic Park (Stern 2019) Owners Club. Welcome! To Jurassic park.....


By Scribbles

1 year ago



Topic Stats

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  • 724 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 21 minutes ago by Gogdog
  • Topic is favorited by 360 Pinsiders

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#8201 9 days ago
Quoted from ScottyC:

Need to just replace them entirely with some orange coin rejects [quoted image]

I need to check my stash as I may have a couple of those. I swapped the original on my AFMr so they would be green when illuminated, and I think the old ones were orange.

#8202 9 days ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

How does that apply to prostitution?

As long as no one is grinding off parts of the shooter rode and snorting it, you’ll be fine.

#8203 9 days ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

I like to put "fire" bulbs in mine
Also pinballlife sells an orange start button, I think I put an amber bulb in there and it matches the shooter and flipper buttons really well and is way less offensive than the green one.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Whats the part # on fire bulb?

#8205 9 days ago

On my agenda this morning was designing and installing some custom coin reject inserts. I've done this before on all my other games and there's a little more to it than you would think, so I thought I would document the process for everyone. This is a fairly simple install, but a couple of things you need to be aware of to save yourself some time and frustration. You'll see that I swapped the OEM yellow buttons with a set of orange which I happened to have on hand (you can order them if you like). Whether you are doing a full button swap or just the inserts, the process is exactly the same.

Tools required:
- small tip Phillips head screwdriver
- 3/16" nut driver
- needle nose pliers

To begin with, I've attached a PDF of the inserts for anyone to print. If you prefer to order them, please PM me and I'll mail you a pair for $2. I print mine on thick gloss photo paper using a photo printer so the blacks are solid and dark, and the whites are bright and non-splotchy like with regular paper. To download the PDF, click on it then click the blue download button at the bottom right of the window. When printing make sure you are printing full size and not scaling, enlarging or fitting to paper.
IMG_4888.JPG
Stern Coin Reject 4.pdf

To begin the installation, power off the pin and open the coin door. You'll first want to remove the two coin mechs by loosening the 2 thumb screws on each, sliding the guides up/down, then removing them. Pay attention to the orientation of the mechs as you'll need to put them back exactly how you removed them. Also, go ahead and pop the LED mounts off the coin door as they will be in the way otherwise.
IMG_4899.JPG

The next step is to remove the two insert assemblies. I chose to do mine one at a time, but you could do both simultaneously if you like. First, you will need to remove the 4 hex screws that secure each coin reject button assembly. There are 2 the left and 2 the right of the upper coin mech bracket. For some unknown reason, the 2 the left are Phillips head but the 2 the right are not. To remove the upper right screw, I really had to bear down on it since it had recessed into the plastic bracket some. To remove the lower left screw, you will need to hold the red tension piece back with your other hand so that you can get to it with the screwdriver. Note that when you remove the last screw, be sure to put your hand on the outside of the coin door to catch all of the parts, otherwise they will fall to the floor and potentially crack/break.
IMG_4890.JPG

Once apart you will need to remove the actual button that depresses by removing the c-clamp off the post at back with needle nose pliers. When doing this be sure to pay attention to the springs orientation and the orientation of the button (the tabs at the top are shorter). The inserts go in via the top, but to remove them you can use another insert or piece of paper to push up from the bottom corners which have open slots in them. When done, replace the button with spring, and put the c-clamp back on.
IMG_4898.JPG

Next put the button assembly back together ready for installation. Again, note the orientation of both the button and the slot plastic (it goes with the taps facing towards the outside and only fits one way when the button is installed. Hold the assembly in it's place, and put the 4 screws back in to secure it.
IMG_4897.JPG

When you are done with both buttons reinstall the coin mechs and tighten the thumbscrews, reattach the LED mounts, close the coin door, and you're done.

Here are some photos that show the differences with varying insert and bulb colors.

Original yellow button on right, orange button on left, and original cool white LEDs
IMG_4893.JPG
IMG_4895.JPG

Original yellow button on right, orange button on left, and warm white LEDs
IMG_4891.JPG

Both orange buttons with original cool white LEDs (the warm white made thins too orange/less amber IMO)
IMG_4900.JPG
IMG_4903.JPG

#8206 9 days ago

I thought you were going to finally say you played the game!

#8207 9 days ago
Quoted from finnflash:

I thought you were going to finally say you played the game!

I posted that in the other thread. Last night was the first time since the game arrived over a week ago that I actually put the glass on and secured the lockbar. I really like the look, feel, and shots. Now I need to start learning rules and how to play. I’m also going to install Tim’s custom firmware today sometime.

#8208 8 days ago

I dont play my games until after i mod them. I took my machine out of the box, turned it on to make sure it works, hit the ball once and turn it off. I ripped the whole thing apart to get powder coated. ramps, arpon, speaker grill, etc. now installing mods, rubbers, wax, etc..

#8209 8 days ago
Quoted from bent98:

I dont play my games until after i mod them. I took my machine out of the box, turned it on to make sure it works, hit the ball once and turn it off. I ripped the whole thing apart to get powder coated. ramps, arpon, speaker grill, etc. now installing mods, rubbers, wax, etc..

I'm definately down with that. I'm just not happy playing with a pile of mods laying around that I know I need to get to. I've finally installed everything I purchased as well as a few simple ideas I had. Put the glass on and secured the lockbar last night, and have enjoyed several games since then. I went ahead and installed Tim's remix, and it is great - really puts the game over the top IMO (those non-movie voices saying actual lines from the movie was driving me crazy).

#8210 8 days ago
Quoted from bent98:

I dont play my games until after i mod them. I took my machine out of the box, turned it on to make sure it works, hit the ball once and turn it off. I ripped the whole thing apart to get powder coated. ramps, arpon, speaker grill, etc. now installing mods, rubbers, wax, etc..

I play the crap out of my nib pins before I put anymore jack into them. Make sure they are a keeper. Then after playing for awhile I kinda know what artistic touches I want to make.

#8211 8 days ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

I play the crap out of my nib pins before I put anymore jack into them. Make sure they are a keeper. Then after playing for awhile I kinda know what artistic touches I want to make.

I use kind of a blend of these techniques. Every game I get seems like it will be a "keeper" at first, so I already know I'm dumping way more into them than I should. But, I want to play some games just so I know everything is working as it should, so I won't install mods and wonder if I screwed something up and broke the game if there is an issue.

#8212 8 days ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

I play the crap out of my nib pins before I put anymore jack into them. Make sure they are a keeper. Then after playing for awhile I kinda know what artistic touches I want to make.

That probably makes a difference. I have a very small collection (3 pins), and I don't know that I could ever have more due to space constraints. The pins I buy will stay with me for several years at a minimum.

#8213 8 days ago

Saw a couple of posts where people adhered those little clear rubber feet above the 3 raptor pit lights, and I kind of liked it. I searched around, but discovered I was out of them. So, I did a quick design and 3D printed one. Then I remembered I had a small sample of translucent orange filament and thought that might look good. Well, I think the orange looks fantastic and I have just enough filament to make a few of them.

Original w/o lens (on right)
IMG_4908 (resized).JPG

My 3D printed clear version (bottom left)
IMG_4907 (resized).JPG

My 3D printed translucent orange version (top left)
IMG_4906 (resized).JPG

All 3 orange in action
ezgif.com-gif-maker.gif

PS: I also just realized that the LEDs for the signs with shots to make have the same exact circles on them. I may add clear pads to those to make them illuminate a little better and to be more noticeable.

#8214 8 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Saw a couple of posts where people adhered those little clear rubber feet above the 3 raptor pit lights, and I kind of liked it. I searched around, but discovered I was out of them. So, I did a quick design and 3D printed one. Then I remembered I had a small sample of translucent orange filament and thought that might look good. Well, I think the orange looks fantastic and I have just enough filament to make a few of them.
Original w/o lens (on right)
[quoted image]
My 3D printed clear version (bottom left)
[quoted image]
My 3D printed translucent orange version (top left)
[quoted image]
All 3 orange in action
[quoted image]
PS: I also just realized that the LEDs for the signs with shots to make have the same exact circles on them. I may add clear pads to those to make them illuminate a little better and to be more noticeable.

Wow that is such a cool little mod and really improves the look. Keen to see what the signs look like with the pads - they definitely could be lit up a bit better

#8215 8 days ago

Is there a way to set the game so that when the coin door opens the power to the game doesn't shut down? I know this is a "safety measure", but it is a pain. If you want to test a light or a solenoid you have to hold the white switch in with one and and work the service buttons with the other. I tried looking through the settings, but being my first Stern I can't seem to navigate to where I need to be (assuming such a setting exist).

#8216 8 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Is there a way to set the game so that when the coin door opens the power to the game doesn't shut down? I know this is a "safety measure", but it is a pain. If you want to test a light or a solenoid you have to hold the white switch in with one and and work the service buttons with the other. I tried looking through the settings, but being my first Stern I can't seem to navigate to where I need to be (assuming such a setting exist).

Duct tape

#8217 8 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Is there a way to set the game so that when the coin door opens the power to the game doesn't shut down? I know this is a "safety measure", but it is a pain. If you want to test a light or a solenoid you have to hold the white switch in with one and and work the service buttons with the other. I tried looking through the settings, but being my first Stern I can't seem to navigate to where I need to be (assuming such a setting exist).

You just pull the coin door switch button out until it clicks - this will re-enable power and it returns it to normal when you next close the coin door

#8218 8 days ago

Frankie the fish approves

BE6B30CA-9088-414E-BFCE-7D7EBFA637A3 (resized).jpeg
#8219 8 days ago

The MezelMods raptor pen mod has those orange light covers. I think it's one of the best mods made for that game.

#8220 8 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

You just pull the coin door switch button out until it clicks - this will re-enable power and it returns it to normal when you next close the coin door

I can’t believe I didn’t know this

#8221 8 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

You just pull the coin door switch button out until it clicks - this will re-enable power and it returns it to normal when you next close the coin door

Thanks, I'll give that a try.

#8222 8 days ago

FYI, I just updated the design of my 3D printed apron accent. Someone suggested that I try doing a wavy version like when it is falling in the movie, but after spending some time on it I just wasn't successful. However, I did modify/improve my current version. It is now wider and a little larger which gives it a better height to width ratio making it look more the shape of a banner. For those of you who have ordered, I haven't shipped any yet so you will be receiving the updated version.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/105886
IMG_4913 (resized).JPGIMG_4914 (resized).JPG

#8223 8 days ago

Dude, you are on FIRE!
Machine looks great!!
How much are you selling the action button accent for?
I must have missed it!
Can't wait to get my premium and I'll be borrowing some of your mod ideas for sure!!

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

FYI, I just updated the design of my 3D printed apron accent. Someone suggested that I try doing a wavy version like when it is falling in the movie, but after spending some time on it I just wasn't successful. However, I did modify/improve my current version. It is now wider and a little larger which gives it a better height to width ratio making it look more the shape of a banner. For those of you who have ordered, I haven't shipped any yet so you will be receiving the updated version.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/105886
[quoted image][quoted image]

#8224 8 days ago
Quoted from Ponzie:

Dude, you are on FIRE!
Machine looks great!!
How much are you selling the action button accent for?
I must have missed it!
Can't wait to get my premium and I'll be borrowing some of your mod ideas for sure!!

Thanks.

The apron accent in the store here: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/105886

However, shipping to Canada is usually more expensive. We could take the risk and I could send it in an envelope with some reinforcement (I think it is light enough). This way I could pay letter rates instead of packages. If a letter I would absorb the extra postage, but if package I would need to charge an additional $8.

#8225 8 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Saw a couple of posts where people adhered those little clear rubber feet above the 3 raptor pit lights, and I kind of liked it. I searched around, but discovered I was out of them. So, I did a quick design and 3D printed one. Then I remembered I had a small sample of translucent orange filament and thought that might look good. Well, I think the orange looks fantastic and I have just enough filament to make a few of them.
Original w/o lens (on right)
[quoted image]
My 3D printed clear version (bottom left)
[quoted image]
My 3D printed translucent orange version (top left)
[quoted image]
All 3 orange in action
[quoted image]
PS: I also just realized that the LEDs for the signs with shots to make have the same exact circles on them. I may add clear pads to those to make them illuminate a little better and to be more noticeable.

I really like those! I think they would look great on the signs too. They aren’t very noticeable, whenever I show someone new how to play and I try to point out the raptor lights or the extra ball light or trex modes etc they never can see them. How much would you sell a set for the raptor pit and the signs for?

#8226 8 days ago
Quoted from Parkshow30:

I really like those! I think they would look great on the signs too. They aren’t very noticeable, whenever I show someone new how to play and I try to point out the raptor lights or the extra ball light or trex modes etc they never can see them. How much would you sell a set for the raptor pit and the signs for?

I would do $1 each plus a $1 for postage. They are 3D printed with solid core using ultra clear PLA (which prints slightly opaque), and I apply an adhesive backing. I tried several infills, but 100% delivered the best results. Where I got my idea was from similar rubber disks you can buy from Amazon. I usually have some around the house but couldn't find them. You could probably order 50 or so for around $7-$8 if you wanted to go that route.

#8227 8 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I would do $1 each plus a $1 for postage. They are 3D printed with solid core using ultra clear PLA (which prints slightly opaque), and I apply an adhesive backing. I tried several infills, but 100% delivered the best results. Where I got my idea was from similar rubber disks you can buy from Amazon. I usually have some around the house but couldn't find them. You could probably order 50 or so for around $7-$8 if you wanted to go that route.

Sounds like a deal I’ll PM you.

#8228 8 days ago

I just found out about some of the guide rails in Avengers could be too close to the pf causing some wear.

I decided to have a look at my JP, and noticed this. Haven't had a chance to take glass off, but does this look normal, or had it scratches the artwork?

Also, any other known areas I should be checking or protecting?

PXL_20201122_065137729~2 (resized).jpg
#8229 8 days ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

I just found out about some of the guide rails in Avengers could be too close to the pf causing some wear.
I decided to have a look at my JP, and noticed this. Haven't had a chance to take glass off, but does this look normal, or had it scratches the artwork?
Also, any other known areas I should be checking or protecting?[quoted image]

Fortunately or unfortunately that is pretty normal. I see people hyperventilating about that sort of "extreme damage" in the playfield thread. Really, if it is UNDER say a post or a ramp or whatever and out of the way of what you would normally see, is it worth stressing over?

Now the playfield issues thread has some legitimate major problems also highlighted, but if you posted that there saying "my playfield is ruined!" I and most other reasonably well adjusted pinballers would just shake our heads.

Bottom line is: I think you can keep enjoying your awesome game!

#8230 8 days ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

I just found out about some of the guide rails in Avengers could be too close to the pf causing some wear.
I decided to have a look at my JP, and noticed this. Haven't had a chance to take glass off, but does this look normal, or had it scratches the artwork?
Also, any other known areas I should be checking or protecting?[quoted image]

Mine has a similar wear, but not noticeable unless looking for it. I assume the steel ball guide is being hit off the newton ball and wiggles just a hint against the clearcoat. Mine is not quite as pronounced, but I only have 150 games on it. I just did a once over and don't see anything else like it.

#8231 8 days ago
Quoted from Parkshow30:

Sounds like a deal I’ll PM you.

I am in Canada and would pay extra for shipping / hassle.

Are you thinking of doing a full set for all of the signs? How have you (or hoe are you) planning on adhering them?

I think this is a really cool, "budget" way to better highlight these signs. I like the fancier ones that "the art of pinball" fellow made, but did not want to go all in on those.

#8232 8 days ago

So my shooter rod kit came in. But it came with the regular shooter rod instructions that says “do not remove the inside plate thats already mounted.”

I guess for this one i need to remove that mount and use the new provided one so the wire can get through? Anyone have pics and video as it says i could mess up the alignment?

#8233 8 days ago
Quoted from mbrave77:

So my shooter rod kit came in. But it came with the regular shooter rod instructions that says “do not remove the inside plate thats already mounted.”
I guess for this one i need to remove that mount and use the new provided one so the wire can get through? Anyone have pics and video as it says i could mess up the alignment?

Throw away the instructions, they are not for this game.

Remove the screws that secure the rod then remove the screws that secure the plate. Replace the plate with the one you received paying attention to orientation then install the new rod. Run the cable over to the other side of the pin and plug into CN15 on board (only place it will fit correctly).

#8234 8 days ago
Quoted from BC_Gambit:

I am in Canada and would pay extra for shipping / hassle.
Are you thinking of doing a full set for all of the signs? How have you (or hoe are you) planning on adhering them?
I think this is a really cool, "budget" way to better highlight these signs. I like the fancier ones that "the art of pinball" fellow made, but did not want to go all in on those.

Was this intended for me? If so, the lenses come with an adhesive backing already installed. However, instead of ordering these from me I suggest you give the clear rubber feet version a try for the signs: amazon.com link »

Unfortunately, I don't have enough translucent orange filament to offer the ones I did for the raptor pit.

#8235 8 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Throw away the instructions, they are not for this game.
Remove the screws that secure the rod then remove the screws that secure the plate. Replace the plate with the one you received paying attention to orientation then install the new rod. Run the cable over to the other side of the pin and plug into CN15 on board (only place it will fit correctly).

Thanks. I figured but just didnt want to proceed until i confirmed. Thanks

#8237 8 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I also just realized that the LEDs for the signs with shots to make have the same exact circles on them. I may add clear pads to those to make them illuminate a little better and to be more noticeable.

I made some clear ones for the signs, and they definitely help visually to see them when lit. However, I also ordered some of these yesterday and tested them. I actually like them better than the 3D printed ones I made. A couple of you ordered some lenses from me, so when I send them to you I'm also going to include the same number of rubber ones so that you can decide and apply whichever you like best.

amazon.com link »
IMG_4924 (resized).JPGIMG_4926 (resized).JPGIMG_4927 (resized).JPGIMG_4928 (resized).JPG

Also, I may have enough orange to print 1 or 2 sets of 3 lenses for the raptor pit ($4 including US postage). If a couple of people are interested I'll see how many I can print and them offer them to however many I can based upon response order.

#8238 8 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

You just pull the coin door switch button out until it clicks - this will re-enable power and it returns it to normal when you next close the coin door

It works, you're a genius (or I'm a moron, it's all relative)!

#8239 8 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I made some clear ones for the signs, and they definitely help visually to see them when lit. However, I also ordered some of these yesterday and tested them. I actually like them better than the 3D printed ones I made. A couple of you ordered some lenses from me, so when I send them to you I'm also going to include the same number of rubber ones so that you can decide and apply whichever you like best.
amazon.com link »
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Also, I may have enough orange to print 1 or 2 sets of 3 lenses for the raptor pit ($4 including US postage). If a couple of people are interested I'll see how many I can print and them offer them to however many I can based upon response order.

I love mods from common household items! I just happened to have some already at the house and can confirm that they work great. Really highlights them since it makes them 3d, and the round edges become raised and lit.

#8240 8 days ago

I had just enough filament to make 2 sets of these orange lenses for the raptor pit, and 1 is already spoken for. The first person to reply to this post that they want them, gets them for $4.

1.gifIMG_4929.JPG
#8241 8 days ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

I love mods from common household items! I just happened to have some already at the house and can confirm that they work great. Really highlights them since it makes them 3d, and the round edges become raised and lit.

Somebody else had the idea earlier, so credit them. It is a simple mod, doesn't look out of place, and actually improves the lights.

#8242 8 days ago
Quoted from mbrave77:

So my shooter rod kit came in. But it came with the regular shooter rod instructions that says “do not remove the inside plate thats already mounted.”
I guess for this one i need to remove that mount and use the new provided one so the wire can get through? Anyone have pics and video as it says i could mess up the alignment?

Tip: Use blue painters tape on the outside of the cabinet to mark EXACTLY where the shooter rod is currently installed. When you swap to the new amber rod, line up the plate to the exact same position outlined by the blue painters tape... I loaded pictures in my previous post #7094 seen here:https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/142#post-5872922

#8243 7 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I had just enough filament to make 2 sets of these orange lenses for the raptor pit, and 1 is already spoken for. The first person to reply to this post that they want them, gets them for $4.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I'll happily take them off your hands. DM me your Paypal info.

#8244 7 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

The clear dome lens by the control room was blinding. I've seen others replace it with green, but I went with yellow and like it much better. Still bright, but muted enough to keep you from seeing spots after looking at it.
[quoted image]

Could you point me to where you ordered this yellow dome from? I searched online but for some reason I'm not finding the right part.

#8245 7 days ago
Quoted from Metroshica:

I'll happily take them off your hands. DM me your Paypal info.

They are yours. Thanks.

#8246 7 days ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Could you point me to where you ordered this yellow dome from? I searched online but for some reason I'm not finding the right part.

https://www.pinballlife.com/plastic-mini-light-domes-with-screw-tabs.html

You have to cut/grind one of the tabs off.

#8247 7 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I had just enough filament to make 2 sets of these orange lenses for the raptor pit, and 1 is already spoken for. The first person to reply to this post that they want them, gets them for $4.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Looks like they are taken, but if you end up making more please let me know!

Regardless, thank you for the link to the clear bumpers!

#8248 7 days ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

Mine has a similar wear, but not noticeable unless looking for it. I assume the steel ball guide is being hit off the newton ball and wiggles just a hint against the clearcoat. Mine is not quite as pronounced, but I only have 150 games on it. I just did a once over and don't see anything else like it.

Yup, time to lift the guide and get some mylar under it.

Anyone know if I should use a felt wash or metal?

Also, what's the process to get it raised up? Do I need to remove bolts on both sides? Anything else?

#8249 7 days ago
Quoted from BC_Gambit:

Looks like they are taken, but if you end up making more please let me know!
Regardless, thank you for the link to the clear bumpers!

Unfortunately, this was from a short length of promo filament, so I won’t be making more. I could buy a whole spool for $20, but unless I could break even with at least 6+ buyers it isn’t worth it to me as I have no use for this color other than these lenses.

#8250 7 days ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

I just found out about some of the guide rails in Avengers could be too close to the pf causing some wear.
I decided to have a look at my JP, and noticed this. Haven't had a chance to take glass off, but does this look normal, or had it scratches the artwork?
Also, any other known areas I should be checking or protecting?[quoted image]

That one is an easy fix, lift up the rail (remove nut obviously) and prop it up with a rag or something. Flow some water thin super glue and then mask off with painters tape to match the black outline coming from the post, you can skip the super glue, but this will really bond the chipping clear, but be careful and cover any areas not to risk dripping (your screwed if that happens), paint with black model paint acrylic, let dry, brush on some clear to seal. Buff lightly and cover with mylar, insert fiber washer under rail. Will look good as new. Even if your not artistic, the painters tape will help you with the black line, and once you put the rail back down, you'll barely see it.

Another less timely, fix is to black sharpie the line on the bare wood, cover with clear, then mylar, insert washer

The other trouble areas are, under the rail near the raptor tower entry on the left, under the rail under the shooter lane gap before the 180 turn

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