(Topic ID: 248582)

Jurassic Park (Stern 2019) Owners Club. Welcome! To Jurassic park.....

By Scribbles

2 years ago


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#8151 11 months ago
Quoted from bent98:

I just picked up a JP and wanted to ask about the people who are replacing the raptor figure with a aftermarket one. I noticed the stock raptor has a hammer style piece screwed to the underbelly and the figure itself pivots up and down. How are the making the aftermarket figure emulate that behavior?
[quoted image]

To my knowledge, they are installing the aftermarket raptors on the pro model which does not have the articulating feature like premium/LE.

#8152 11 months ago
Quoted from Huggers:

Joined the billionaire club today! Love this game
[quoted image]

Nice! You got me by 18 mil haha

8C3160F8-F390-40DC-9AC9-7DB3CA6EFC22 (resized).jpeg
#8153 11 months ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Yep mine skews left a bit also. Have you tried the physical height adjustment so the mouth just barely touches the ramp when it opens? Might be worth checking. Here are a couple posts about it:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/18#post-5228793
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/13#post-5217546

Thanks! I’ll take a look into that this weekend.

#8154 11 months ago
Quoted from bent98:

I just picked up a JP and wanted to ask about the people who are replacing the raptor figure with a aftermarket one. I noticed the stock raptor has a hammer style piece screwed to the underbelly and the figure itself pivots up and down. How are the making the aftermarket figure emulate that behavior?
[quoted image]

Definitely looks better than the stock Prem/LE version however I've not seen anyone post a replacement that pivots up/down. To be honest my raptor has never really moved much and adjusting it hasn't made it any better. So switching it to a good looking static version isn't a bad option ... until someone comes up with a better idea

#8155 11 months ago

Just finished installing my Tilt side blades, and I think they came out great. Couple of pointers for those of you who still have this on your "to do" list.

1 - I've done this to my other pins to help protect the sides, so I decided to put adhesive felt strips along the sides of the playfield. You can buy these sheets at Hobby Lobby (or probably Amazon) for $1-$2. Just cut them into 1/2" strips and apply to the sides.

2 - Have someone help. I'm bacheloring it for a few days, so I did it on my own. I finally got it done, but it was kind of a bear and a couple of times I was really close to messing up the decal. The help is where someone else can hold the playfield in different vertical positions while you apply the graphics.

3 - I wish I would have noticed before I started applying the decals, but you'll need to remove the flipper button washer holder and the little metal bracket on each side (not sure what this is) as they are both in the way. After you apply the blades just reinstall them.

Many more little details, but this isn't intended to be a "how to" this time. Bottom line is that just about anyone can do this. The breathable vinyl allows you to easily work out bubbles and as long as your sides are clean you can peel and unpeel several times when starting until you get it exactly aligned with the bottom edge of the glass slot. Also, start at the back where the blade just touches or comes close to touching the rail at the back of the cabinet.

IMG_4836 (resized).JPGIMG_4837 (resized).JPGIMG_4838 (resized).JPGIMG_4839 (resized).JPGIMG_4840 (resized).JPGIMG_4842 (resized).JPG
#8156 11 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

It was “Plant a Tree” day at the park, and things look a little greener now. Here is my original post explaining my planting methodology:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/140#post-5863800
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Just curious....lots of different companies make model train trees....though I like the look of yours. Which ones did you buy/what link?

#8157 11 months ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Just curious....lots of different companies make model train trees....though I like the look of yours. Which ones did you buy/what link?

I bought these, but see they are not available right now.

amazon.com link »

#8158 11 months ago

Is there a link to the rules of this game? Pro version.

#8159 11 months ago

Check out this TREX testing video at 2:25 mark.

Video courteous of MikeS - thanks mike!

This is type of rejection happens about 10-15% of the time. Not bad, but enough to kick my pinball OCD into high gear.

Curious how many ppl have seen this and how often they get it too. And, if someone’s found an adjustment to fix it?

So far, I’ve reduced right flipper strength considerably (195) and even reduced TREX jaw power a lot. I originally increased jaw power and it made it worse. Not sure which of these adjustments are actually working and which are psychological. Any thoughts?

#8160 11 months ago
Quoted from newpinbin:

Is there a link to the rules of this game? Pro version.

http://tiltforums.com/t/stern-jurassic-park-rulesheet

It covers the differences between the Pro and Prem/LE (associated with the raptor pen)

#8161 11 months ago

I just finished my Pin Stadium Omega installation, and wow what a difference. I'm not a color GI fan, so I went with the Omegas which only have white GI (selectable from 0 to 100% brightness) and UV flashers. These also have diffusers so the light is soft, and you don't see light dots all over your metals. I landed on setting the brightness to 50% and I tied the flashers into the shaker so every time it goes off the UVs flash with it. I know Pin Stadium lighting isn't for everyone, but I must say these really brighten up the playfield and make the artwork pop.

Pin Stadiums OFF (really much darker, but the camera overexposed it)
IMG_4847 (resized).JPG

Pin Stadiums 50% (this is the truest representation of the three photos)
IMG_4848 (resized).JPG

Pin Stadiums 100% (really much brighter, but the camera underexposed it)
IMG_4849 (resized).JPG

I'm thinking I may still need a trough light to brighten things up in the flipper area, but that's a project for another day.

#8162 11 months ago

Had to clean the rod the other day on our Jeep because it was starting to get sluggish.
Raised the playfield and loosened the set screw on the metal tab that breaks the opto beam.
However unlike everyone else mine would not just pull off. Could not get it off with pliers or even a flat heat screwdriver wedged between it and the plastic bushing. The only way to get it out was to use a philips screwdriver and a hammer and knock the rod out. And even then it took a lot of force to move.
I am guessing whoever used the locktite on the set screw at the factory really got carried away with the amount.

#8163 11 months ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

Check out this TREX testing video at 2:25 mark.

Video courteous of mikes - thanks mike!
This is type of rejection happens about 10-15% of the time. Not bad, but enough to kick my pinball OCD into high gear.
Curious how many ppl have seen this and how often they get it too. And, if someone’s found an adjustment to fix it?
So far, I’ve reduced right flipper strength considerably (195) and even reduced TREX jaw power a lot. I originally increased jaw power and it made it worse. Not sure which of these adjustments are actually working and which are psychological. Any thoughts?

Just my thoughts, but here's how I see the shots on the video:
2:30 mark - missed shot looks okay but tough to tell for sure. I think my T-Rex catches pretty well and I get some shots like this that look good but actually just aren't quite good enough or strong enough so they bounce up and hit the front of the mouth instead of going in.

2:43 mark - missed shot looks like it just wasn't good enough to be caught.

2:48 mark - good clean shot goes in easily

4:23 mark - good clean shot goes in easily

The last two shots that go in very easily seem to me to be the most telling. Seems like you're set up pretty well. Not every shot that makes it through the entrance of the ramp is a good enough shot to be caught. If you're catching 85%-90% of good looking shots then I think that's probably a sign it's in good shape, because there are going to be some shots that look good but actually aren't quite good enough and so they look like "rejects".

Overall I think mine catches very well, but I still have shots on mine that look very much like those two misses. They'll appear to have been good enough to catch, and then a bit later I'll hit a clean shot that's definitely better than the shot that missed and it's caught easily. Similar to yours, mine probably catches about 85-90% of good looking shots. So I've just learned to chalk up those "almost" shots to the fact that the shot looked good but actually wasn't quite good enough. If you were seeing "rejects" on a lot higher percentage of shots then I'd say you might need an adjustment, but the clean catches you had looked like it's dialed in pretty well.

I think there's a bit of similarity between this and the Marvel ramp on Avengers. That Marvel ramp is deceptive in that some shots go back down when it looked like it could have been good enough to make it, but then cleaner shots will go right through. The design of the ramp is such that a near miss will still make it even most of the way up the ramp, but then it either rattles or dies and comes back down and the natural impression/reaction of the player when you see that is that the ramp "rejected" it when it actually just wasn't quite a clean enough hit to make it. The ramp wasn't defective, and the shot was close to being good enough but just wasn't quite good enough. I think the same thing can happen with the T-Rex. A ball that's almost good enough will bounce off the mouth, and the natural impression/reaction of the player is that it was a reject. But if your good shots are being caught cleanly and easily the way those two catches rolled in that to me says it seems to be working pretty well. Just my thoughts though.

#8164 11 months ago
Quoted from Arcade:

Had to clean the rod the other day on our Jeep because it was starting to get sluggish.
Raised the playfield and loosened the set screw on the metal tab that breaks the opto beam.
However unlike everyone else mine would not just pull off. Could not get it off with pliers or even a flat heat screwdriver wedged between it and the plastic bushing. The only way to get it out was to use a philips screwdriver and a hammer and knock the rod out. And even then it took a lot of force to move.
I am guessing whoever used the locktite on the set screw at the factory really got carried away with the amount.

Wow, mine slides off like it’s coated in butter.

#8165 11 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Wow, mine slides off like it’s coated in butter.

That would have been great.
Went back on easy, but man it was glued on super tight. lol.
I even took the set screw all the way out just in case.

#8166 11 months ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Just my thoughts, but here's how I see the shots on the video:
2:30 mark - missed shot looks okay but tough to tell for sure. I think my T-Rex catches pretty well and I get some shots like this that look good but actually just aren't quite good enough or strong enough so they bounce up and hit the front of the mouth instead of going in.
2:43 mark - missed shot looks like it just wasn't good enough to be caught.
2:48 mark - good clean shot goes in easily
4:23 mark - good clean shot goes in easily
The last two shots that go in very easily seem to me to be the most telling. Seems like you're set up pretty well. Not every shot that makes it through the entrance of the ramp is a good enough shot to be caught. If you're catching 85%-90% of good looking shots then I think that's probably a sign it's in good shape, because there are going to be some shots that look good but actually aren't quite good enough and so they look like "rejects".
Overall I think mine catches very well, but I still have shots on mine that look very much like those two misses. They'll appear to have been good enough to catch, and then a bit later I'll hit a clean shot that's definitely better than the shot that missed and it's caught easily. Similar to yours, mine probably catches about 85-90% of good looking shots. So I've just learned to chalk up those "almost" shots to the fact that the shot looked good but actually wasn't quite good enough. If you were seeing "rejects" on a lot higher percentage of shots then I'd say you might need an adjustment, but the clean catches you had looked like it's dialed in pretty well.
I think there's a bit of similarity between this and the Marvel ramp on Avengers. That Marvel ramp is deceptive in that some shots go back down when it looked like it could have been good enough to make it, but then cleaner shots will go right through. The design of the ramp is such that a near miss will still make it even most of the way up the ramp, but then it either rattles or dies and comes back down and the natural impression/reaction of the player when you see that is that the ramp "rejected" it when it actually just wasn't quite a clean enough hit to make it. The ramp wasn't defective, and the shot was close to being good enough but just wasn't quite good enough. I think the same thing can happen with the T-Rex. A ball that's almost good enough will bounce off the mouth, and the natural impression/reaction of the player is that it was a reject. But if your good shots are being caught cleanly and easily the way those two catches rolled in that to me says it seems to be working pretty well. Just my thoughts though.

I think you nailed it. And those have been the discussion I’ve been having with other owners, MikeS and TKDalumni . Being a new owner, I just couldn’t tell if something was really wrong, or my pinball OCD was kicking in. Thanks for confirming. Looks like this is just a case of that ramp shot success becoming a little bit more narrower shot when the TREX is down. Which does make sense.

All in all, I think the answer to fix this is more beer as that’ll make the shot become wider

#8167 11 months ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Just my thoughts, but here's how I see the shots on the video:
2:30 mark - missed shot looks okay but tough to tell for sure. I think my T-Rex catches pretty well and I get some shots like this that look good but actually just aren't quite good enough or strong enough so they bounce up and hit the front of the mouth instead of going in.
2:43 mark - missed shot looks like it just wasn't good enough to be caught.
2:48 mark - good clean shot goes in easily
4:23 mark - good clean shot goes in easily
The last two shots that go in very easily seem to me to be the most telling. Seems like you're set up pretty well. Not every shot that makes it through the entrance of the ramp is a good enough shot to be caught. If you're catching 85%-90% of good looking shots then I think that's probably a sign it's in good shape, because there are going to be some shots that look good but actually aren't quite good enough and so they look like "rejects".
Overall I think mine catches very well, but I still have shots on mine that look very much like those two misses. They'll appear to have been good enough to catch, and then a bit later I'll hit a clean shot that's definitely better than the shot that missed and it's caught easily. Similar to yours, mine probably catches about 85-90% of good looking shots. So I've just learned to chalk up those "almost" shots to the fact that the shot looked good but actually wasn't quite good enough. If you were seeing "rejects" on a lot higher percentage of shots then I'd say you might need an adjustment, but the clean catches you had looked like it's dialed in pretty well.
I think there's a bit of similarity between this and the Marvel ramp on Avengers. That Marvel ramp is deceptive in that some shots go back down when it looked like it could have been good enough to make it, but then cleaner shots will go right through. The design of the ramp is such that a near miss will still make it even most of the way up the ramp, but then it either rattles or dies and comes back down and the natural impression/reaction of the player when you see that is that the ramp "rejected" it when it actually just wasn't quite a clean enough hit to make it. The ramp wasn't defective, and the shot was close to being good enough but just wasn't quite good enough. I think the same thing can happen with the T-Rex. A ball that's almost good enough will bounce off the mouth, and the natural impression/reaction of the player is that it was a reject. But if your good shots are being caught cleanly and easily the way those two catches rolled in that to me says it seems to be working pretty well. Just my thoughts though.

Thanks for the input! I was the one playing the game in the video. I agree that the shots at 2:30 and 2:43 weren't perfect. They were hard enough but not 100% accurate. I think they were shots that would still easily make the ramp if the trex were up but they did seem to hit the right sidewall of the ramp which likely made it hard for the magnet to get a clean grab of them. Overall though I'd say my game is close to 90% on clean shots. It does on occasion miss one that i expect it to grab but for the most part it does a good job and I'm happy with it. I've been fortunate that I haven't had to make any adjustments to mine but if there are ways to get it closer to 99% on clean shots I'd be happy to hear them.

#8168 11 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Just finished installing my Tilt side blades, and I think they came out great. Couple of pointers for those of you who still have this on your "to do" list.
1 - I've done this to my other pins to help protect the sides, so I decided to put adhesive felt strips along the sides of the playfield. You can buy these sheets at Hobby Lobby (or probably Amazon) for $1-$2. Just cut them into 1/2" strips and apply to the sides.
2 - Have someone help. I'm bacheloring it for a few days, so I did it on my own. I finally got it done, but it was kind of a bear and a couple of times I was really close to messing up the decal. The help is where someone else can hold the playfield in different vertical positions while you apply the graphics.
3 - I wish I would have noticed before I started applying the decals, but you'll need to remove the flipper button washer holder and the little metal bracket on each side (not sure what this is) as they are both in the way. After you apply the blades just reinstall them.
Many more little details, but this isn't intended to be a "how to" this time. Bottom line is that just about anyone can do this. The breathable vinyl allows you to easily work out bubbles and as long as your sides are clean you can peel and unpeel several times when starting until you get it exactly aligned with the bottom edge of the glass slot. Also, start at the back where the blade just touches or comes close to touching the rail at the back of the cabinet.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I recently put the blades on myself with help from a friend. I don't see easy way of putting these on with the pf still in the game. We removed the pf since it's pretty easy with two people. Highly recommend going this route if you can get some help. You only need to disconnect a few connectors and snip a few cable ties. I stuck mine a little further back. I did not have to remove flipper washers but did have to remove bracket thing in the back. Best to cut out decal before you peel it off the paper so you can hold it up against game to see where you will place it.

#8169 11 months ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

I recently put the blades on myself with help from a friend. I don't see easy way of putting these on with the pf still in the game. We removed the pf since it's pretty easy with two people.

I removed my TMNT playfield by myself. I'm super glad I did, I agonized over the position of those damn art blades regardless but I could only imagine how it would have went with a playfield in the way. haha

In addition, it was super easy and I fully plan on doing it again that way in the future with any stern I may buy.

#8170 11 months ago

Now that I have the amber shooting rod, those glow yellow coin rejects were really bugging me - I know, it's a curse. Anyway, I opened the coin door and observed they are using standard 6V 2SMD clear lens bulbs that are cool white. I swapped them out with a couple of 2 SMD Comet clear lens warm whites I had on hand, and I really like the results. They are now much more "amber" looking and match my shooter rod and illuminated flipper buttons much better. Next is getting rid of those ugly 25 cent reject inserts.

OEM cool white bulbs
IMG_4851 (resized).JPG

Right side with warm white and left with cool white
IMG_4852 (resized).JPG

Both with warm white bulbs
IMG_4853 (resized).JPG

#8171 11 months ago

I really liked the results of my new Pin Stadium Omega lights, but the trough was still a little dark for my liking. I had some Comet cool white LED strips, wires, and clips on hand so I thought I'd give it a go. I clipped onto the left sling GI bulb, ran my wires, and attached the light strip to the top of the metal piece inside the trough. 5 minute install and I really like the results. In my next Comet order I'm going to get a sunlight white strip which better matches the existing lighting and swap out my cool white one.

Parts List
1 x Comet Matrix 10 SMD 4" Sunlight White Frosted LED Strip (comes with alligator clips)
1 x Comet Matrix 12" Extension
1 x Comet Matrix 6" Extension
Total cost before shipping: Under $5

Where I clipped
IMG_4854 (resized).JPG

View from behind
IMG_4855 (resized).JPG

View from front
IMG_4857 (resized).JPG

The before
IMG_4860 (resized).JPG

The after
IMG_4856 (resized).JPG

#8172 11 months ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

I recently put the blades on myself with help from a friend. I don't see easy way of putting these on with the pf still in the game. We removed the pf since it's pretty easy with two people. Highly recommend going this route if you can get some help. You only need to disconnect a few connectors and snip a few cable ties. I stuck mine a little further back. I did not have to remove flipper washers but did have to remove bracket thing in the back. Best to cut out decal before you peel it off the paper so you can hold it up against game to see where you will place it.

I've installed blades twice. Once I just manoeuvred around the lifted playfield, the other time I had a friend help remove the playfield. While removing the playfield was certainly better, I now think it's still crazy town. I saw a local op use the soapy water method and install blades himself on a pin with just a lifted playfield. Took him under 10 minutes. I think this is best choice for most people.

Here's a discussion thread with some other options as well but this is the post you want:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/easiest-method-for-art-blades-install

Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

You can use painters tape much the same way that clamps were used-
But really the soapy water is the best way to go. Lay the decal down face down on the carpet, remove the backing and spray it lightly with the soapy stuff, then use your hand to spread it around the entire decal so you have the layer of soap film on the whole thing. Installing it is super easy, no need to remove the playfield. You install it vertically, moving it as needed to get good alignment. then once it is in the right spot just use a towel or roller to adhere it fully.
I've done it once with help, once by myself

#8173 11 months ago

For people that think this game is repetitive because of the paddocks, I have had some of my best scores completely ignoring them. Last night I had 1.5 billion without purposely playing any of them. I focused on T. rex modes control room modes and multiballs. I played raptor multiball while T. rex rampage was going on and had 2x running. 400 million for raptor multiball and close to 300 for T. rex rampage.
I would say this is probably one of the least repetitive games I have ever played, so many ways to score good points it never gets old!

#8174 11 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

FYI, I just placed my new Jurassic Park lockbar mod in the Pinside market: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/105886
The banner was one of my favorite things on the DE JP, so I wanted to carry it over to this pin somehow.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I like the idea but it is a bit 'flat' for me. I think giving it more dynamic look would be better. Like the banner in the movie. It can curl around the button.

55804940f7b1051d008b569e (resized).jpg
#8175 11 months ago
Quoted from PeterG:

I like the idea but it is a bit 'flat' for me. I think giving it more dynamic look would be better. Like the banner in the movie. It can curl around the button.
[quoted image]

This is more of what I was thinking, but I like your idea. When I get some time, I'll see what I can do.

pasted_image (resized).png
#8176 11 months ago

Thought I would design and 3D print some side rail pieces that match the colors and caution tape pattern of my 3D printed flipper toppers. I had to do the right side in 3 pieces for the long rail, but I still really like how they came out.

IMG_4861.JPGIMG_4862.JPGIMG_4863.JPG

#8177 11 months ago

my t-rex is alive! received and installed my kit from lionel yesterday. fit like a glove. very nice option for pro owners.

he did mention turning off the start button attract mode flashing so it wouldn't move while not playing. probably a good idea to not wear out the motor. i didn't see the option in my menu, but he said you have to be on 1.3 code. i'll check to see what i'm on.

#8178 11 months ago
Quoted from ectobar:

I've installed blades twice. Once I just manoeuvred around the lifted playfield, the other time I had a friend help remove the playfield. While removing the playfield was certainly better, I now think it's still crazy town. I saw a local op use the soapy water method and install blades himself on a pin with just a lifted playfield. Took him under 10 minutes. I think this is best choice for most people.
Here's a discussion thread with some other options as well but this is the post you want:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/easiest-method-for-art-blades-install

I dont even use soap. Just lift playfield and line the top up. Push down gently. If it looks right push it all down. Just make sure all dust is off first. Some games are harder than others depending on what parts are on the edges.

#8179 11 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Now that I have the amber shooting rod, those glow yellow coin rejects were really bugging me

Need to just replace them entirely with some orange coin rejects

screenshot.3638 (resized).jpg
#8180 11 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Thought I would design and 3D print some side rail pieces that match the colors and caution tape pattern of my 3D printed flipper toppers. I had to do the right side in 3 pieces for the long rail, but I still really like how they came out.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I know a lot of folks like the caution tape look but I really dislike it. Makes it look like a Roadshow. BTW there is no caution tape in the movie which the game is based on so I don’t feel like it adds authenticity-quite the opposite. But I’m OCD when it comes to sticking to the theme lol..

It certainly looks well done if you’re going for that look.

#8181 11 months ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

I know a lot of folks like the caution tape look but I really dislike it.

Did you ever see my DE JP?

4b618b1d2282c804a86b24d8399887fbd0f259fb (resized).jpg
#8182 11 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Did you ever see me DE JO?
[quoted image]

I guess you really like the caution tape look then!!!

That's the joy of collecting these things. Make it the way YOU like it!!

#8183 11 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Did you ever see me DE JO?
[quoted image]

Wait... Did you just call him a JO?

#8184 11 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Did you ever see me DE JO?
[quoted image]

Sometimes less is more when it comes to mods...but you do appear to be having a great time, doing your thing, so hard to knock having this much fun!

#8185 11 months ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Wait... Did you just call him a JO?

Well, I was actually getting my car inspected and trying to type on my phone which can be challenging with my fat fingers. Right when I was typing they called my name so I posted w/o proofing. I did just go back and fix it, however.

#8186 11 months ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

I guess you really like the caution tape look then!!!
That's the joy of collecting these things. Make it the way YOU like it!!

When I bought the pin it already had yellow legs. Felt like I needed to do something to bring it all together.

Also, many will be glad to know that this is all the caution theme I plan on integrating into this one. The cabinet art on the DE lent itself better to a dominant yellow/black color scheme IMO. BTW, I really like the black finish on this pin (Premium), and I don't ever see myself changing it.

Except for the caution pattern on the side rails (one could always repaint it), everything I did to that pin was reversible . When I sold it, I gave the buyer all of the original parts, backglass & lightboard, etc. in case he ever wanted to revert back to the way it was.

#8187 11 months ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

I guess you really like the caution tape look then!!!
That's the joy of collecting these things. Make it the way YOU like it!!

Maybe it's not so much the theme I like (which I do), but I really like yellow as you can see by what I drive when I'm not out tooling around in my '04 Titan pickup. It's a fun car, but a T-Rex could take it out in one bite.

IMG_6475 (resized).JPG

14
#8188 11 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Maybe it's not so much the theme I like (which I do), but I really like yellow as you can see by what I drive when I'm not out tooling around in my '04 Titan pickup. It's a fun car, but a T-Rex could take it out in one bite.
[quoted image]

This is what I imagine an afternoon could bring to you...

yel1 (resized).jpg
#8189 11 months ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

This is what I imagine an afternoon could bring to you...
[quoted image]

Maybe if you angled the stripes a bit? Ha!

It is kind of funny. I bought the car new in 2017, but have done a ton of custom things to it outside, inside, and under the hood. One day my wife came out in the garage and asked what I was doing? I told her whatever I was working on at the time, and here retort was, "It's not a pinball machine, you know."

#8190 11 months ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

This is what I imagine an afternoon could bring to you...
[quoted image]

Almost did a spit take when I saw this!

#8191 11 months ago

Those stern amber shooter rods. What's the warning stern has on these about cancer etc. Some Californian legal thing. Is it an over reaction or not

#8192 11 months ago
Quoted from embryon:

Those stern amber shooter rods. What's the warning stern has on these about cancer etc. Some Californian legal thing. Is it an over reaction or not

Anything that begins with "Proposition" is an overreaction. No worries.

#8193 11 months ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

Anything that begins with "Proposition" is an overreaction. No worries.

How does that apply to prostitution?

#8194 11 months ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

How does that apply to prostitution?

I was talking about California, wise ass.

#8195 11 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I just finished my Pin Stadium Omega installation, and wow what a difference. I'm not a color GI fan, so I went with the Omegas which only have white GI (selectable from 0 to 100% brightness) and UV flashers. These also have diffusers so the light is soft, and you don't see light dots all over your metals. I landed on setting the brightness to 50% and I tied the flashers into the shaker so every time it goes off the UVs flash with it. I know Pin Stadium lighting isn't for everyone, but I must say these really brighten up the playfield and make the artwork pop.
Pin Stadiums OFF (really much darker, but the camera overexposed it)
[quoted image]
Pin Stadiums 50% (this is the truest representation of the three photos)
[quoted image]
Pin Stadiums 100% (really much brighter, but the camera underexposed it)
[quoted image]
I'm thinking I may still need a trough light to brighten things up in the flipper area, but that's a project for another day.

Can’t imagine going back to not having PinStadiums on this pin.

E7864172-75AB-4109-BEAB-985459AF877E (resized).jpeg
#8196 11 months ago
Quoted from embryon:

Those stern amber shooter rods. What's the warning stern has on these about cancer etc. Some Californian legal thing. Is it an over reaction or not

Just don’t lick it and you’ll be alright.

Seriously, I must have blown right by whatever label/sticker you saw. What did it say exactly?

#8197 11 months ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

BTW there is no caution tape in the movie which the game is based on so I don’t feel like it adds authenticity-quite the opposite.

Perhaps if there were a little more caution tape in the movie, it would have turned out better for some of those unfortunate park employees...

#8198 11 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Now that I have the amber shooting rod, those glow yellow coin rejects were really bugging me - I know, it's a curse. Anyway, I opened the coin door and observed they are using standard 6V 2SMD clear lens bulbs that are cool white. I swapped them out with a couple of 2 SMD Comet clear lens warm whites I had on hand, and I really like the results. They are now much more "amber" looking and match my shooter rod and illuminated flipper buttons much better. Next is getting rid of those ugly 25 cent reject inserts.
OEM cool white bulbs
[quoted image]
Right side with warm white and left with cool white
[quoted image]
Both with warm white bulbs
[quoted image]

I like to put "fire" bulbs in mine
Also pinballlife sells an orange start button, I think I put an amber bulb in there and it matches the shooter and flipper buttons really well and is way less offensive than the green one.

20201120_234555_1.gif

20201120_235547 (resized).jpg
#8199 11 months ago

My bad looks like this warning is just in the checkout phase. I changed the rod to one for Elvira and it had the same crap. Here it is anyway.

Screenshot_2020-11-21-22-36-53-64 (resized).png
#8200 11 months ago
Quoted from embryon:

My bad looks like this warning is just in the checkout phase. I changed the rod to one for Elvira and it had the same crap. Here it is anyway.
[quoted image]

So there's lead used in the plunger assembly somewhere. Maybe a trace element in the metal plate? I doubt in the steel rod, spring, clips, rubber tip, acrylic amber, or other parts.

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