(Topic ID: 248582)

Jurassic Park (Stern 2019) Owners Club. Welcome! To Jurassic park.....

By Scribbles

2 years ago


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#8101 11 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

This is the helicopter I purchased and plan on installing. I know there are a few writeups in the thread currently, but I haven't seen a step-by-step with photos. I'm a little less confident on how to do this one, but I'll read everything there is about it before I undertake it. I'll do my best to document my process and share what I can.

I basically just drilled a hole thru the prop pin on top, using bigger and bigger bits until it was the right size, and hit the bottom of the copter with the grinder until it was the right height to allow clearance for the prop to spin.

#8102 11 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

This is the helicopter I purchased and plan on installing. I know there are a few writeups in the thread currently, but I haven't seen a step-by-step with photos. I'm a little less confident on how to do this one, but I'll read everything there is about it before I undertake it. I'll do my best to document my process and share what I can.

Did you get yours from Ebay from great britain? Several sellers have it there (in a 2 pack with a plane, so you would get 2 cars, 1 heli, and 1 plane) but shipping is $15 or so.

And...while we are talking about helicopters....can someone take a picture of what this area looks like on theirs? It doesn't look right, and is making my helicopter lean, creating ball traps.

20201116_223640 (resized).jpg

#8104 11 months ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

....can someone take a picture of what this area looks like on theirs? It doesn't look right, and is making my helicopter lean, creating ball traps.

that metal post is entirely incorrect on your machine (at least compared to mine)
screenshot.3617 (resized).jpg

screenshot.3618 (resized).jpg

#8105 11 months ago
Quoted from ScottyC:

that metal post is entirely incorrect on your machine (at least compared to mine)
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

That is definitely his problem

#8106 11 months ago
Quoted from ScottyC:

that metal post is entirely incorrect on your machine (at least compared to mine)
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

I removed both of those posts. So far so good, they seem pretty unnecessary.

#8107 11 months ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

I removed both of those posts. So far so good, they seem pretty unnecessary.

Odd, I am not sure why the previous owner added the aluminum spacers. Perhaps to keep air balls from getting up there? In any case, good that you went back to factory on that area.

#8108 11 months ago

I cant find that blue chopper anywhere on ebay.

#8110 11 months ago
Quoted from Hokie822:

I cant find that blue chopper anywhere on ebay.

Keep looking for: some variation of "Jurassic World Die Cast MATCHBOX MISSION FORCE VEHICLE 5 PK SET
I got mine last week for $22 shipped, but the prices on ebay can be as high as $30-40 right now

ebay.com link: Jurassic World Movie Die Cast MATCHBOX MISSION FORCE VEHICLE 5 PK SET 1 64 2015
ebay.com link: Jurassic World Movie Die Cast MATCHBOX 2 PACK VEHICLE SET 1 64 Scale 2015

#8111 11 months ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

I removed both of those posts. So far so good, they seem pretty unnecessary.

You removed both of the posts? It seems there would be a potential ball trap there then?

Anyway...after taking the area apart...it almost seems like the different type of metal post was intentional. I mean, they definitely had to use different screws and everything to attach it.

20201118_105320 (resized).jpg

20201118_104411 (resized).jpg

I don't have an extra plastic post to use currently, so my initial plan was to just take the one from the back and use it up front. I.e., convert it from a 3 post to a 2 post rubber.

20201118_110432 (resized).jpg

But....the post is really tight to the ball guide.

20201118_110702 (resized).jpg

I'm thinking....that someone on the line decided to use the other type of post which is skinnier, so the rubber doesn't get cut or squeezed by the ball guide. You can see that in my original picture ->

20201116_223640 (resized).jpg

A better plan....might be to just dremel off some of the top of the post so its just not as tall and keep using it.

#8112 11 months ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

You removed both of the posts? It seems there would be a potential ball trap there then?
Anyway...after taking the area apart...it almost seems like the different type of metal post was intentional. I mean, they definitely had to use different screws and everything to attach it.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
I don't have an extra plastic post to use currently, so my initial plan was to just take the one from the back and use it up front. I.e., convert it from a 3 post to a 2 post rubber.
[quoted image]
But....the post is really tight to the ball guide.
[quoted image]
I'm thinking....that someone on the line decided to use the other type of post which is skinnier, so the rubber doesn't get cut or squeezed by the ball guide. You can see that in my original picture ->
[quoted image]
A better plan....might be to just dremel off some of the top of the post so its just not as tall and keep using it.

I removed those hex posts above the plastic in front of the helicopter, not the playfield posts. Haven't had a ball hit up there yet.

#8113 11 months ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

You removed both of the posts? It seems there would be a potential ball trap there then?
Anyway...after taking the area apart...it almost seems like the different type of metal post was intentional. I mean, they definitely had to use different screws and everything to attach it.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
I don't have an extra plastic post to use currently, so my initial plan was to just take the one from the back and use it up front. I.e., convert it from a 3 post to a 2 post rubber.
[quoted image]
But....the post is really tight to the ball guide.
[quoted image]
I'm thinking....that someone on the line decided to use the other type of post which is skinnier, so the rubber doesn't get cut or squeezed by the ball guide. You can see that in my original picture ->
[quoted image]
A better plan....might be to just dremel off some of the top of the post so its just not as tall and keep using it.

I'm sure that it was switched to improve the feed of a failed heli shot.
When I put new rubber on I had to loosen that post and apply pressure on it as I retightened it to keep it as far from the guide as possible so it would not slice the rubber and keep the feed to the left flipper instead of the left sling. I did the same with the guide itself.
My factory rubber was already sliced when I took it off.

If you don't mind the look of it, dremeling some of the top off should work well.

22
#8114 11 months ago

"Get to the Choppa!"

After my Jeep installation success and positive reviews here in the forum, I was feeling confident and proud of myself so I decided to take on the helicopter install. Unfortunately for me, I was somewhat humbled. On a difficulty scale of 1-10 I would be the Jeep around a 4, but the helicopter is a solid 8 – not impossible, but it takes a little skill, patience, and lots of test fitting. Also, this post is not intended to be the only way to do the helicopter mod. This is the way that I did it. It worked well for me, so I thought I would share as a guide for others who wish to incorporate the same mod.

So with that stated, here I go. To begin with this is the helicopter you will need for modifying the horizontal spinner on your Premium/LE. In addition, the following tools would be ideal for this installation: a drill press, a step bit, a belt or disk sander, misc. drill bits, a Dremel tool with grinding/sanding bits, a hammer, a punch, and a Philips screwdriver. Unfortunately, I don’t own a drill press, step bit, or belt/disk sander, so I made due with some alternative tools: an electric hand drill, various sized drill bits, an electric block sander, and a pneumatic right angle grinder. I’m sure you can make do with other tools, but these are what I used. Also, be sure to wear work gloves when drilling, sanding, etc.
00.JPG

Here is what the OEM setup looks like on Premium/LE
01.JPG
01b.JPG

To begin, remove the lockbar and glass then raise the playfield and rest it the black rubber feet on the lockbar receiver. Next carefully remove the screw holding the spinning blades while paying attention to the washer stack and catching it when you remove the screw. Be aware that when you remove the screw completely the metal rod will fall down through the playfield. This is okay as it will not actually fully separate and fall down into the cabinet. Once removed, set everything aside.
02.JPG
02b.JPG

The next step is to separate the plastic bottom from the metal shell of the chopper by drilling out the two rivets that hold them together on the underside of the model. I used a 9/64” bit to do this, but anything close to that will work. When positioning the chopper to drill the rivets be mindful of not breaking the rear rotor. When drilling the front rivet I hung the back off the table, and will drilling the back I supported the tail.
03.JPG
03b.JPG

Unfortunately, the rivets didn’t drill clean for me so I finished the job with a hammer and punch, and I was able to separate the two pieces. When separated you can easily remove the landing gear which you will dispose of. Also, you may want to file or trim the metal piece sticking down in the front that received the rivet. I had to trim mine slightly, otherwise it was sticking below the bottom plastic piece after I sanded it down in the steps to come.
04.JPG
04b.JPG

Next is to begin drilling the hole in the top of the chopper for the shaft to fit through. Ultimately this hole needs to be 11.5mm (29/64”) in diameter, but you can’t get there all at once. Start by turning the part upside down and marking the spot where you want to drill (this exact center of the current post that the blades are attached to. Of course you will have to estimate, but it is pretty simple to get it right. Then punch the mark to prepare for drilling the pilot hole.
05.JPG

For the initial pilot hole I used a 3/16” drill bit which was the perfect size for drilling through and popping off the blade post. You’ll see that my hole wasn’t exactly centered nor a perfect circle, but that’s fine as there is opportunity to fix that as I enlarged the hole.
06.JPG

I next used my angle grinder with a tapered stone bit to enlarge and true the hole in the top of the chopper.
07.JPG

I then progressively used incremental sized drill bits to enlarge the hole working my way up to 11.5mm (29/64”), and then used my grinder to smooth the rough edges of the drilled hole.
08.JPG
08b.JPG

Next, I attached the bottom and marked down through the hole where I needed to drill out the base. Again, I started with a pilot hole but then went straight to the 29/64” bit. Be sure to do this on a block and not just holding it in midair as you want to drill the hole cleanly and centered.
09.JPG
09b.JPG

Now it’s time for the first of many test fits. Slide the joined chopper down over the post and see what your clearance looks like. You need the top of the cylinder to be just exactly or a hair above the roof line of the chopper. Obviously, at this point it won’t be.
10.JPG
10b.JPG

Next comes sanding with some fairly course sandpaper to take off some of the plastic from the base. I can’t imagine doing this by hand, but I’m sure it is possible with enough effort. When sanding don’t overdo it.
11.JPG

Sand a little, test fit, sand some more. Also, have the chopper together so that you have something to hold on to, and while sanding keep it flat at the point of the hole (the nose will arc up some). You can see in the photos how much I ended up having to sand off the base. When test fitting, you’ll want the top of the chopper to be just slightly above the top of the shaft
12.JPG
12b.JPG

The next step is to cut out holes/slots for the 3 screws on the helipad so that the chopper sits down around them. Place the chopper over the shaft and use a Sharpie to mark on the base where you need to cutout plastic for the 3 screws. I used my angle grinder here, but a Dremel too would also be a good tool for the job. Note the 3 spots where I had to cut away plastic for the base to fit over the screws. When I did this it took several test fits as I only wanted to cutaway as little material as necessary. You’ll notice that a large piece of my bottom is missing, and this occurred with sanding as it became very thin. No worries, I just removed it and since the chopper sits down flush I’ll never see it.
13.JPG
13b.JPG
13c.JPG

Upon test fitting after the screws were accounted for, I was still 1-2 mm too tall. Instead of sanding away more plastic and risk destroying that piece, my solution was to lower the top of the chopper. I covered it with a cloth then used a wood block and hammer to beat it down slightly.
14.JPG

Again, I was very careful and test fitted between whacks 2 or 3 times until the shaft was just flush with the top of the chopper.
15.JPG

I then reinstalled the spinner. To do this you’ll need to have all of your parts nearby. Use one hand to reach under the pin and push the metal rod up, and use the other hand to put the washer stack and the blades back onto the rod and then start the screw and washer into the threads so that the rod doesn’t fall back down. Tighten the screw as best as you can. You can’t really grip the rod under the playfield very well, but I did my best with a pair of long needle nose pliers.

Now’s the time to test the spinner by hand to see how well you’ve done, and if you need to make any adjustments. In my case I soon realize that the blades were hitting the tail rotor on occasion. My solution here was to position the tail rotor where the blades did not hit it and apply a dab of hot melt glue to secure it in place.
16.JPG
16b.JPG

Finally, the job was complete. I chose not to use any adhesive to secure the chopper as it is really not necessary and it would raise it a little. Now that I know everything fits and works perfectly, I may install a red LED inside the chopper and tie it to the adjacent dome light. Also, I’ll probably use a few spots of superglue on the inside to secure the base to the top of the chopper. Oh, and don't forget to put the two screws that were holding the helicopter plastic back on the posts (I put my helicopter plastic in the coin box so I'll be able to find it if/when that day ever comes).
17.JPG
17_chopper.gif

Well, there you have it. Good luck with the mod, and feel free to offer any insights you gained while installing this mod that I didn’t address.

#8115 11 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

After my Jeep installation success and positive reviews here in the forum, I was feeling confident and proud of myself so I decided to take on the helicopter install. Unfortunately for me, I was somewhat humbled. On a difficulty scale of 1-10 I would be the Jeep around a 4, but the helicopter is a solid 8 – not impossible, but it takes a little skill, patience, and lots of test fitting.
So with that stated, here I go. To begin with this is the helicopter you will need for modifying the horizontal spinner on your Premium/LE. In addition, the following tools would be ideal for this installation: a drill press, a step bit, a belt or disk sander, misc. drill bits, a Dremel tool with grinding/sanding bits, a hammer, a punch, and a Philips screwdriver. Unfortunately, I don’t own a drill press, step bit, or belt/disk sander, so I made due with some alternative tools: an electric hand drill, various sized drill bits, an electric block sander, and a pneumatic right angle grinder. I’m sure you can make do with other tools, but these are what I used. Also, be sure to wear work gloves when drilling, sanding, etc.
[quoted image]
Here is what the OEM setup looks like on Premium/LE
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
To begin, remove the lockbar and glass then raise the playfield and rest it the black rubber feet on the lockbar receiver. Next carefully remove the screw holding the spinning blades while paying attention to the washer stack and catching it when you remove the screw. Be aware that when you remove the screw completely the metal rod will fall down through the playfield. This is okay as it will not actually fully separate and fall down into the cabinet. Once removed, set everything aside.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
The next step is to separate the plastic bottom from the metal shell of the chopper by drilling out the two rivets that hold them together on the underside of the model. I used a 9/64” bit to do this, but anything close to that will work. When positioning the chopper to drill the rivets be mindful of not breaking the rear rotor. When drilling the front rivet I hung the back off the table, and will drilling the back I supported the tail.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Unfortunately, the rivets didn’t drill clean for me so I finished the job with a hammer and punch, and I was able to separate the two pieces. When separated you can easily remove the landing gear which you will dispose of.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Next is to begin drilling the hole in the top of the chopper for the shaft to fit through. Ultimately this hole needs to be 11.5mm (29/64”) in diameter, but you can’t get there all at once. Start by turning the part upside down and marking the spot where you want to drill (this exact center of the current post that the blades are attached to. Of course you will have to estimate, but it is pretty simple to get it right. Then punch the mark to prepare for drilling the pilot hole.
[quoted image]
For the initial pilot hole I used a 3/16” drill bit which was the perfect size for drilling through and popping off the blade post. You’ll see that my hole wasn’t exactly centered nor a perfect circle, but that’s fine as there is opportunity to fix that as I enlarged the hole.
[quoted image]
I next used my angle grinder with a tapered stone bit to enlarge and true the hole in the top of the chopper.
[quoted image]
I then progressively used incremental sized drill bits to enlarge the hole working my way up to 11.5mm (29/64”), and then used my grinder to smooth the rough edges of the drilled hole.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Next, I attached the bottom and marked down through the hole where I needed to drill out the base. Again, I started with a pilot hole but then went straight to the 29/64” bit. Be sure to do this on a block and not just holding it in midair as you want to drill the hole cleanly and centered.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Now it’s time for the first of many test fits. Slide the joined chopper down over the post and see what your clearance looks like. You need the top of the cylinder to be just exactly or a hair above the roof line of the chopper. Obviously, at this point it won’t be.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Next comes sanding with some fairly course sandpaper to take off some of the plastic from the base. I can’t imagine doing this by hand, but I’m sure it is possible with enough effort. When sanding don’t overdo it.
[quoted image]
Sand a little, test fit, sand some more. Also, have the chopper together so that you have something to hold on to, and while sanding keep it flat at the point of the hole (the nose will arc up some). You can see in the photos how much I ended up having to sand off the base. When test fitting, you’ll want the top of the chopper to be just slightly above the top of the shaft
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
The next step is to cut out holes/slots for the 3 screws on the helipad so that the chopper sits down around them. Place the chopper over the shaft and use a Sharpie to mark on the base where you need to cutout plastic for the 3 screws. I used my angle grinder here, but a Dremel too would also be a good tool for the job. Note the 3 spots where I had to cut away plastic for the base to fit over the screws. When I did this it took several test fits as I only wanted to cutaway as little material as necessary. You’ll notice that a large piece of my bottom is missing, and this occurred with sanding as it became very thin. No worries, I just removed it and since the chopper sits down flush I’ll never see it.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Upon test fitting after the screws were accounted for, I was still 1-2 mm too tall. Instead of sanding away more plastic and risk destroying that piece, my solution was to lower the top of the chopper. I covered it with a cloth then used a wood block and hammer to beat it down slightly.
[quoted image]
Again, I was very careful and test fitted between whacks 2 or 3 times until the shaft was just flush with the top of the chopper.
[quoted image]
I then reinstalled the spinner. To do this you’ll need to have all of your parts nearby. Use one hand to reach under the pin and push the metal rod up, and use the other hand to put the washer stack and the blades back onto the rod and then start the screw and washer into the threads so that the rod doesn’t fall back down. Tighten the screw as best as you can. You can’t really grip the rod under the playfield very well, but I did my best with a pair of long needle nose pliers.
[quoted image]
Now’s the time to test the spinner by hand to see how well you’ve done, and if you need to make any adjustments. In my case I soon realize that the blades were hitting the tail rotor on occasion. My solution here was to position the tail rotor where the blades did not hit it and apply a dab of hot melt glue to secure it in place.
[quoted image]
Finally, the job was complete. I chose not to use any adhesive to secure the chopper as it is really not necessary and it would raise it a little. Now that I know everything fits and works perfectly, I may install a red LED inside the chopper and tie it to the adjacent dome light. Also, I’ll probably use a few spots of superglue on the inside to secure the base to the top of the chopper.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Well, there you have it. Good luck with the mod, and feel free to offer any insights you gained while installing this mod that I didn’t address.

AWESOME!!! WELL DONE !

#8116 11 months ago

Amazing writeup Mr_Tantrum! This obviously took you a lot of time but is greatly appreciated. I was hesitant to do this but am now going to consider it - all thanks to you.

#8117 11 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

After my Jeep installation success and positive reviews here in the forum, I was feeling confident and proud of myself so I decided to take on the helicopter install. Unfortunately for me, I was somewhat humbled. On a difficulty scale of 1-10 I would be the Jeep around a 4, but the helicopter is a solid 8 – not impossible, but it takes a little skill, patience, and lots of test fitting. Also, this post is not intended to be the only way to do the helicopter mod. This is the way that I did it. It worked well for me, so I thought I would share as a guide for others who wish to incorporate the same mod.
So with that stated, here I go. To begin with this is the helicopter you will need for modifying the horizontal spinner on your Premium/LE. In addition, the following tools would be ideal for this installation: a drill press, a step bit, a belt or disk sander, misc. drill bits, a Dremel tool with grinding/sanding bits, a hammer, a punch, and a Philips screwdriver. Unfortunately, I don’t own a drill press, step bit, or belt/disk sander, so I made due with some alternative tools: an electric hand drill, various sized drill bits, an electric block sander, and a pneumatic right angle grinder. I’m sure you can make do with other tools, but these are what I used. Also, be sure to wear work gloves when drilling, sanding, etc.
[quoted image]
Here is what the OEM setup looks like on Premium/LE
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
To begin, remove the lockbar and glass then raise the playfield and rest it the black rubber feet on the lockbar receiver. Next carefully remove the screw holding the spinning blades while paying attention to the washer stack and catching it when you remove the screw. Be aware that when you remove the screw completely the metal rod will fall down through the playfield. This is okay as it will not actually fully separate and fall down into the cabinet. Once removed, set everything aside.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
The next step is to separate the plastic bottom from the metal shell of the chopper by drilling out the two rivets that hold them together on the underside of the model. I used a 9/64” bit to do this, but anything close to that will work. When positioning the chopper to drill the rivets be mindful of not breaking the rear rotor. When drilling the front rivet I hung the back off the table, and will drilling the back I supported the tail.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Unfortunately, the rivets didn’t drill clean for me so I finished the job with a hammer and punch, and I was able to separate the two pieces. When separated you can easily remove the landing gear which you will dispose of.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Next is to begin drilling the hole in the top of the chopper for the shaft to fit through. Ultimately this hole needs to be 11.5mm (29/64”) in diameter, but you can’t get there all at once. Start by turning the part upside down and marking the spot where you want to drill (this exact center of the current post that the blades are attached to. Of course you will have to estimate, but it is pretty simple to get it right. Then punch the mark to prepare for drilling the pilot hole.
[quoted image]
For the initial pilot hole I used a 3/16” drill bit which was the perfect size for drilling through and popping off the blade post. You’ll see that my hole wasn’t exactly centered nor a perfect circle, but that’s fine as there is opportunity to fix that as I enlarged the hole.
[quoted image]
I next used my angle grinder with a tapered stone bit to enlarge and true the hole in the top of the chopper.
[quoted image]
I then progressively used incremental sized drill bits to enlarge the hole working my way up to 11.5mm (29/64”), and then used my grinder to smooth the rough edges of the drilled hole.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Next, I attached the bottom and marked down through the hole where I needed to drill out the base. Again, I started with a pilot hole but then went straight to the 29/64” bit. Be sure to do this on a block and not just holding it in midair as you want to drill the hole cleanly and centered.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Now it’s time for the first of many test fits. Slide the joined chopper down over the post and see what your clearance looks like. You need the top of the cylinder to be just exactly or a hair above the roof line of the chopper. Obviously, at this point it won’t be.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Next comes sanding with some fairly course sandpaper to take off some of the plastic from the base. I can’t imagine doing this by hand, but I’m sure it is possible with enough effort. When sanding don’t overdo it.
[quoted image]
Sand a little, test fit, sand some more. Also, have the chopper together so that you have something to hold on to, and while sanding keep it flat at the point of the hole (the nose will arc up some). You can see in the photos how much I ended up having to sand off the base. When test fitting, you’ll want the top of the chopper to be just slightly above the top of the shaft
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
The next step is to cut out holes/slots for the 3 screws on the helipad so that the chopper sits down around them. Place the chopper over the shaft and use a Sharpie to mark on the base where you need to cutout plastic for the 3 screws. I used my angle grinder here, but a Dremel too would also be a good tool for the job. Note the 3 spots where I had to cut away plastic for the base to fit over the screws. When I did this it took several test fits as I only wanted to cutaway as little material as necessary. You’ll notice that a large piece of my bottom is missing, and this occurred with sanding as it became very thin. No worries, I just removed it and since the chopper sits down flush I’ll never see it.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Upon test fitting after the screws were accounted for, I was still 1-2 mm too tall. Instead of sanding away more plastic and risk destroying that piece, my solution was to lower the top of the chopper. I covered it with a cloth then used a wood block and hammer to beat it down slightly.
[quoted image]
Again, I was very careful and test fitted between whacks 2 or 3 times until the shaft was just flush with the top of the chopper.
[quoted image]
I then reinstalled the spinner. To do this you’ll need to have all of your parts nearby. Use one hand to reach under the pin and push the metal rod up, and use the other hand to put the washer stack and the blades back onto the rod and then start the screw and washer into the threads so that the rod doesn’t fall back down. Tighten the screw as best as you can. You can’t really grip the rod under the playfield very well, but I did my best with a pair of long needle nose pliers.
Now’s the time to test the spinner by hand to see how well you’ve done, and if you need to make any adjustments. In my case I soon realize that the blades were hitting the tail rotor on occasion. My solution here was to position the tail rotor where the blades did not hit it and apply a dab of hot melt glue to secure it in place.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Finally, the job was complete. I chose not to use any adhesive to secure the chopper as it is really not necessary and it would raise it a little. Now that I know everything fits and works perfectly, I may install a red LED inside the chopper and tie it to the adjacent dome light. Also, I’ll probably use a few spots of superglue on the inside to secure the base to the top of the chopper.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Well, there you have it. Good luck with the mod, and feel free to offer any insights you gained while installing this mod that I didn’t address.

Really....a great writeup. The community thanks you!

And....in your pic....I noticed THIS is what stern should have put in mine but instead used too long of a post.

4d55afd5586a74a5bf2a70552f4f05337283c2a7 (resized).jpg

I went ahead and put the posts where they originally went on mine, and dremeled and sanded the top of my post. So now it looks like this ->

20201118_135141 (resized).jpg

As you can see....the plastic is still bent and I'm hoping that it "relaxes" with time, but I'm sure it will never lay flat again. It is better, but the ball can still touch the short blade and get potentially caught.

20201118_134304 (resized).jpg

I may reach out to stern and see if they will send me just the one plastic.

Edit: My JP was born June 2020....so new premium/LE owners might want to take a look under their helicopter to see what post they have on theirs.

#8118 11 months ago

Now to locate a chopper

#8119 11 months ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Really....a great writeup. The community thanks you!
And....in your pic....I noticed THIS is what stern should have put in mine but instead used too long of a post.
[quoted image]
I went ahead and put the posts where they originally went on mine, and dremeled and sanded the top of my post. So now it looks like this ->
[quoted image]
As you can see....the plastic is still bent and I'm hoping that it "relaxes" with time, but I'm sure it will never lay flat again. It is better, but the ball can still touch the short blade and get potentially caught.
[quoted image]
I may reach out to stern and see if they will send me just the one plastic.
Edit: My JP was born June 2020....so new premium/LE owners might want to take a look under their helicopter to see what post they have on theirs.

I instantly noticed the different post on Mr_Tantrum machine as well - it seems that Stern have switched from the original screw with plastic sleeve to a metal post. Maybe the factory have reported that the post is just too close to the ball guide for the installation of the rubber (similar to what you found) and they needed to make a change. I wonder whether other's build around June have the same post as yours, or if yours is an accident and was supposed to be like Mr_Tantrum machine

Anyway nicely picked up and good to see your addressed yours - I'd suggest contacting Stern, as they probably send you a replacement post (the proper one) and a new plastic ... and possible other parts to ensure you helicopter spins correctly

#8120 11 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

After my Jeep installation success and positive reviews here in the forum, I was feeling confident and proud of myself so I decided to take on the helicopter install. Unfortunately for me, I was somewhat humbled. On a difficulty scale of 1-10 I would be the Jeep around a 4, but the helicopter is a solid 8 – not impossible, but it takes a little skill, patience, and lots of test fitting. Also, this post is not intended to be the only way to do the helicopter mod. This is the way that I did it. It worked well for me, so I thought I would share as a guide for others who wish to incorporate the same mod.
So with that stated, here I go. To begin with this is the helicopter you will need for modifying the horizontal spinner on your Premium/LE. In addition, the following tools would be ideal for this installation: a drill press, a step bit, a belt or disk sander, misc. drill bits, a Dremel tool with grinding/sanding bits, a hammer, a punch, and a Philips screwdriver. Unfortunately, I don’t own a drill press, step bit, or belt/disk sander, so I made due with some alternative tools: an electric hand drill, various sized drill bits, an electric block sander, and a pneumatic right angle grinder. I’m sure you can make do with other tools, but these are what I used. Also, be sure to wear work gloves when drilling, sanding, etc.
[quoted image]
Here is what the OEM setup looks like on Premium/LE
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
To begin, remove the lockbar and glass then raise the playfield and rest it the black rubber feet on the lockbar receiver. Next carefully remove the screw holding the spinning blades while paying attention to the washer stack and catching it when you remove the screw. Be aware that when you remove the screw completely the metal rod will fall down through the playfield. This is okay as it will not actually fully separate and fall down into the cabinet. Once removed, set everything aside.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
The next step is to separate the plastic bottom from the metal shell of the chopper by drilling out the two rivets that hold them together on the underside of the model. I used a 9/64” bit to do this, but anything close to that will work. When positioning the chopper to drill the rivets be mindful of not breaking the rear rotor. When drilling the front rivet I hung the back off the table, and will drilling the back I supported the tail.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Unfortunately, the rivets didn’t drill clean for me so I finished the job with a hammer and punch, and I was able to separate the two pieces. When separated you can easily remove the landing gear which you will dispose of. Also, you may want to file or trim the metal piece sticking down in the front that received the rivet. I had to trim mine slightly, otherwise it was sticking below the bottom plastic piece after I sanded it down in the steps to come.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Next is to begin drilling the hole in the top of the chopper for the shaft to fit through. Ultimately this hole needs to be 11.5mm (29/64”) in diameter, but you can’t get there all at once. Start by turning the part upside down and marking the spot where you want to drill (this exact center of the current post that the blades are attached to. Of course you will have to estimate, but it is pretty simple to get it right. Then punch the mark to prepare for drilling the pilot hole.
[quoted image]
For the initial pilot hole I used a 3/16” drill bit which was the perfect size for drilling through and popping off the blade post. You’ll see that my hole wasn’t exactly centered nor a perfect circle, but that’s fine as there is opportunity to fix that as I enlarged the hole.
[quoted image]
I next used my angle grinder with a tapered stone bit to enlarge and true the hole in the top of the chopper.
[quoted image]
I then progressively used incremental sized drill bits to enlarge the hole working my way up to 11.5mm (29/64”), and then used my grinder to smooth the rough edges of the drilled hole.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Next, I attached the bottom and marked down through the hole where I needed to drill out the base. Again, I started with a pilot hole but then went straight to the 29/64” bit. Be sure to do this on a block and not just holding it in midair as you want to drill the hole cleanly and centered.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Now it’s time for the first of many test fits. Slide the joined chopper down over the post and see what your clearance looks like. You need the top of the cylinder to be just exactly or a hair above the roof line of the chopper. Obviously, at this point it won’t be.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Next comes sanding with some fairly course sandpaper to take off some of the plastic from the base. I can’t imagine doing this by hand, but I’m sure it is possible with enough effort. When sanding don’t overdo it.
[quoted image]
Sand a little, test fit, sand some more. Also, have the chopper together so that you have something to hold on to, and while sanding keep it flat at the point of the hole (the nose will arc up some). You can see in the photos how much I ended up having to sand off the base. When test fitting, you’ll want the top of the chopper to be just slightly above the top of the shaft
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
The next step is to cut out holes/slots for the 3 screws on the helipad so that the chopper sits down around them. Place the chopper over the shaft and use a Sharpie to mark on the base where you need to cutout plastic for the 3 screws. I used my angle grinder here, but a Dremel too would also be a good tool for the job. Note the 3 spots where I had to cut away plastic for the base to fit over the screws. When I did this it took several test fits as I only wanted to cutaway as little material as necessary. You’ll notice that a large piece of my bottom is missing, and this occurred with sanding as it became very thin. No worries, I just removed it and since the chopper sits down flush I’ll never see it.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Upon test fitting after the screws were accounted for, I was still 1-2 mm too tall. Instead of sanding away more plastic and risk destroying that piece, my solution was to lower the top of the chopper. I covered it with a cloth then used a wood block and hammer to beat it down slightly.
[quoted image]
Again, I was very careful and test fitted between whacks 2 or 3 times until the shaft was just flush with the top of the chopper.
[quoted image]
I then reinstalled the spinner. To do this you’ll need to have all of your parts nearby. Use one hand to reach under the pin and push the metal rod up, and use the other hand to put the washer stack and the blades back onto the rod and then start the screw and washer into the threads so that the rod doesn’t fall back down. Tighten the screw as best as you can. You can’t really grip the rod under the playfield very well, but I did my best with a pair of long needle nose pliers.
Now’s the time to test the spinner by hand to see how well you’ve done, and if you need to make any adjustments. In my case I soon realize that the blades were hitting the tail rotor on occasion. My solution here was to position the tail rotor where the blades did not hit it and apply a dab of hot melt glue to secure it in place.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Finally, the job was complete. I chose not to use any adhesive to secure the chopper as it is really not necessary and it would raise it a little. Now that I know everything fits and works perfectly, I may install a red LED inside the chopper and tie it to the adjacent dome light. Also, I’ll probably use a few spots of superglue on the inside to secure the base to the top of the chopper. Oh, and don't forget to put the two screws that were holding the helicopter plastic back on the posts (I put my helicopter plastic in the coin box so I'll be able to find it if/when that day ever comes).
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Well, there you have it. Good luck with the mod, and feel free to offer any insights you gained while installing this mod that I didn’t address.

Great post and awesome job! This should be another key post - 2 in 2 days

#8121 11 months ago

"Get to the Choppa! Part Deux"

Well, I couldn't help myself as the helicopter is just screaming to be lit up inside. My lighting of choice is Comet Matrix and I have tons of extra parts around from mods that I build and sell, so I used some things I had on hand to light the chopper. However, you can order everything you need from Comet or do your own way if you are accustomed to other lighting.

To do this mod the tools you need are a soldering iron (along with knowing how to use it), a nut driver or socket, a Phillips screwdriver, and a drill with a 1/8" bit. As far as the Comet lighting goes, I recommend a frosted LED strip since they diffuse light better than the clear ones. You would need to buy a 4" 10SMD strip, but you are going to cut it down to just 1 SMD. Also, this would come with the male connector that you would desolder from one of the included adapters to use in the wiring of the chopper. You'd probably also want to get a 6" Matrix extension to ensure you had enough wiring.

Begin the installation by lifting the playfield and resting it fully extended on the lockbar receiver. Next remove the screw holding the blades above the chopper, and remember to catch not only the screw and washer above the blades, but the 3 washer assembly below it. Let the rod fall as it will fall out at this point (it will in the next step).

Next, if using a Matrix strip, cut it down to just one SMD and one chip (you must have a pair of the black chip and SMD for a light to work), stick it to the nose of the chopper base as forward as you can leaving enough room for the tab from the top part of the chopper to still sit all the way down (I actually cust a little slit between the two leads on the LED strip for the tab to fit between). Then drill a hole out the towards the back on the hidden side of the base when installed. FYI, you can slide the white Matrix connector off the wires, run the wires through the hole, and then slide the white connector back on (just pay attention to orientation)
IMG_4794 (resized).JPG
IMG_4795 (resized).JPG

Next you need to remove the right wireframe which is very simple (only two fasteners). Pay attention and note how it slides into the C ramp at the top because you'll need to put it back the same way.
IMG_4798 (resized).JPG

Remove the screw and washer securing the wireframe just above the helipad.
IMG_4796 (resized).JPG

Remove the locknut and top washer securing the wireframe to the right sling.
IMG_4797 (resized).JPG

Now carefully lift the ramp off its mount, rotate it inward, and gently set it on the playfield. Do not tug or pull up on it as it contains a switch that is still wired under the playfield.
IMG_4799 (resized).JPG

Next remove the fasteners holding the large green plastic in place. There are 3: from there perspective of standing at the side of the pin . . .

The locknut at left.
IMG_4800 (resized).JPG

The standoff at center to the left of the helipad.
IMG_4801 (resized).JPG

The standoff at right.
IMG_4802 (resized).JPG

Now, lift the plastic up and rotate it inward. Please note that the chopper rod will fall into the cabinet at this point unless you reach under the playfield to catch it when lifting the plastic.

Next you will want to disconnect the LED board by unscrewing from top and holding the nut tight with plyers or some other tool. Not how everything is arranged as the dome is also attached by these fasteners.
IMG_4805 (resized).JPG

Detach the LED board and set the other pieces aside. Turn it over and note the 2 leads and which is + & -.
IMG_4806 (resized).JPG

Now, having desoldered the male connector and wire from one of the pieces that came with your Comet strip, solder it to the pads on the light board (red is + and black is -)
IMG_4807 (resized).JPG

Plug your chopper in and test that it lights when the lightboard is on. If not, your polarity is backwards and you'll need to revers black and red wires (even if you have them wired "correctly". Turn pin off and now it's time to reassemble. At this point you might want to put a couple of dots of superglue at key points (front, center, rear) of the chopper two secure the two parts together. Screw the light board and dome back onto the plastic as they were originally, and then put the large green plastic in place while running the chopper wire through the same opening as the switch wire.
IMG_4808 (resized).JPG

Secure the plastic by reattaching the 3 fasteners: the two posts and the locknut. Then reinstall the wireframe by first putting the top end into the mount, then screwing down the bracket above the helipad, then position the end at the sling directly centered above the lane and put the washer and lock nut back on.
IMG_4810 (resized).JPG

Reinstall your chopper as before, lower playfield, power-up and you should be read to play with a lit chopper cockpit.
IMG_4813 (resized).JPG
chopper.gif

#8122 11 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

"Get to the Choppa! Part Deux"
Well, I couldn't help myself as the helicopter is just screaming to be lit up inside. My lighting of choice is Comet Matrix and I have tons of extra parts around from mods that I build and sell, so I used some things I had on hand to light the chopper. However, you can order everything you need from Comet or do your own way if you are accustomed to other lighting.
To do this mod the tools you need are a soldering iron (along with knowing how to use it), a nut driver or socket, a Phillips screwdriver, and a drill with a 1/8" bit. As far as the Comet lighting goes, I recommend a frosted LED strip since they diffuse light better than the clear ones. You would need to buy a 4" 10SMD strip, but you are going to cut it down to just 1 SMD. Also, this would come with the male connector that you would desolder from one of the included adapters to use in the wiring of the chopper. You'd probably also want to get a 6" Matrix extension to ensure you had enough wiring.
Begin the installation by lifting the playfield and resting it fully extended on the lockbar receiver. Next remove the screw holding the blades above the chopper, and remember to catch not only the screw and washer above the blades, but the 3 washer assembly below it. Let the rod fall as it will fall out at this point (it will in the next step).
Next, if using a Matrix strip, cut it down to just one SMD and one chip (you must have a pair of the black chip and SMD for a light to work), stick it to the nose of the chopper base as forward as you can leaving enough room for the tab from the top part of the chopper to still sit all the way down (I actually cust a little slit between the two leads on the LED strip for the tab to fit between). Then drill a hole out the towards the back on the hidden side of the base when installed. FYI, you can slide the white Matrix connector off the wires, run the wires through the hole, and then slide the white connector back on (just pay attention to orientation)
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Next you need to remove the right wireframe which is very simple (only two fasteners). Pay attention and note how it slides into the C ramp at the top because you'll need to put it back the same way.
[quoted image]
Remove the screw and washer securing the wireframe just above the helipad.
[quoted image]
Remove the locknut and top washer securing the wireframe to the right sling.
[quoted image]
Now carefully lift the ramp off its mount, rotate it inward, and gently set it on the playfield. Do not tug or pull up on it as it contains a switch that is still wired under the playfield.
[quoted image]
Next remove the fasteners holding the large green plastic in place. There are 3: from there perspective of standing at the side of the pin . . .
The locknut at left.
[quoted image]
The standoff at center to the left of the helipad.
[quoted image]
The standoff at right.
[quoted image]
Now, lift the plastic up and rotate it inward. Please note that the chopper rod will fall into the cabinet at this point unless you reach under the playfield to catch it when lifting the plastic.
Next you will want to disconnect the LED board by unscrewing from top and holding the nut tight with plyers or some other tool. Not how everything is arranged as the dome is also attached by these fasteners.
[quoted image]
Detach the LED board and set the other pieces aside. Turn it over and note the 2 leads and which is + & -.
[quoted image]
Now, having desoldered the male connector and wire from one of the pieces that came with your Comet strip, solder it to the pads on the light board (red is + and black is -)
[quoted image]
Plug your chopper in and test that it lights when the lightboard is on. If not, your polarity is backwards and you'll need to revers black and red wires (even if you have them wired "correctly". Turn pin off and now it's time to reassemble. Screw the light board and dome back onto the plastic as they were originally, and then put the large green plastic in place while running the chopper wire through the same opening as the switch wire.
[quoted image]
Secure the plastic by reattaching the 3 fasteners: the two posts and the locknut. Then reinstall the wireframe by first putting the top end into the mount, then screwing down the bracket above the helipad, then position the end at the sling directly centered above the lane and put the washer and lock nut back on.
[quoted image]
Reinstall your chopper as before, lower playfield, power-up and you should be read to play with a lit chopper cockpit.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

You sir, are killing it with the write ups. Many thanks for the effort, looks fantastic!

#8123 11 months ago

"Get to the Choppa! Part Deux"

Nice MOD. Just found the “choppa” and have it on order. Thanks for the tips!

#8124 11 months ago

Mr_Tantrum is a god. That’s it that’s the post.

#8125 11 months ago

Ordered!
Thanks for the heads up!
Now... If only the machine would arrive...

Quoted from Apollyon:

Nitro has Stern JP shooter rods back in stock for Canadians who may be interested:
https://nitropinball.com/collections/stern-shop/products/jurassic-park-led-shooter-rod

#8126 11 months ago
Quoted from RetroGamerJP:

You sir, are killing it with the write ups. Many thanks for the effort, looks fantastic!

Thanks. I think that a lot of people hesitate to do stuff to their pins because of the unknown, even though they would really like to. I like to mod and tinker, and since I'm going to do it anyway then I might as well help out others at the same time on some of these more unintuitive mods.

#8127 11 months ago

Just got a ball stuck and had to remove it by hand. It wasn't wedged but resting on the rings of the newton ball shaft.

IMG_4818.JPG

#8128 11 months ago

I wanted to respond openly since I've already had a couple of people ask me if I would do the chopper modifications for them. First of all, I'm flattered that people would entrust me to making this mod for their pins. However, I've been thinking about it and I've decided that I don't want to offer a JP chopper service. Even thought I know people would pay, there are a few factors that led me to my decision. First, the helicopters are getting harder and harder to track down, and the price can escalate. I don't want to have to spend time researching and ordering, only to have to raise prices based upon what I can track them down for. Next, is just the time involved. I wasn't tracking how long it took me to make mine, but it was a couple of hours, and several trips between the garage and my upstairs game room. Finally, the wear and tear on my own pin. For each build I would have to disassemble my chopper assembly, and risk losing/breaking parts, scratching plastics, etc. I'm also a little concerned that the tolerances may not be exactly the same, so what fits perfectly on my pin may not fit as well or even correctly on someone else's.

I tried to be as detailed as possible in my "how to", but I'm always happy to answer questions in the open forum or PM related to it. Also, as more and more perform this mod there will be greater insight, tips and tricks, etc. on how to accomplish it.

Again, I appreciate people reaching out to me for this mod, but it is just not one that I want to undertake.

#8129 11 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Just got a ball stuck and had to remove it by hand. It wasn't wedged but resting on the rings of the newton ball shaft.
[quoted image]

That happens with the stock jeep. It happened to me several times when I first got my pin but not since.

#8130 11 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I wanted to respond openly since I've already had a couple of people ask me if I would do the chopper modifications for them. First of all, I'm flattered that people would entrust me to making this mod for their pins. However, I've been thinking about it and I've decided that I don't want to offer a JP chopper service. Even thought I know people would pay, there are a few factors that led me to my decision. First, the helicopters are getting harder and harder to track down, and the price can escalate. I don't want to have to spend time researching and ordering, only to have to raise prices based upon what I can track them down for. Next, is just the time involved. I wasn't tracking how long it took me to make mine, but it was a couple of hours, and several trips between the garage and my upstairs game room. Finally, the wear and tear on my own pin. For each build I would have to disassemble my chopper assembly, and risk losing/breaking parts, scratching plastics, etc.
I tried to be as detailed as possible in my "how to", but I'm always happy to answer questions in the open forum or PM related to it. Also, as more and more perform this mod there will be greater insight, tips and tricks, etc. on how to accomplish it.
Again, I appreciate people reaching out to me for this mod, but it is just not one that I want to undertake.

Not only is that a wise decision, it's nice that you took the time to do the write up not expecting to profit.

#8131 11 months ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Not only is that a wise decision, it's nice that you took the time to do the write up not expecting to profit.

I've never been mistaken for not being a capitalist, but I do still like to contribute to the pinball community when I can whenever I may be able to help at times.

#8132 11 months ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

That happens with the stock jeep. It happened to me several times when I first got my pin but not since.

Yeah, I didn't see how it could be related to whatever model was mounted on top of the metal bracket. Was kind of funny when it happened because I didn't see exactly where it went and had to search for the ball.

#8133 11 months ago

Recently, the ball gets stuck in the raptor pen when the gates open. The lip of the gate is just a tiny bit high/uneven. The game needs a good shake to get the ball free for multi-ball.

Anyone else have this problem? Any easy way to adjust the gate?

Thank you!

#8134 11 months ago
Quoted from Dan1733:

Recently, the ball gets stuck in the raptor pen when the gates open. The lip of the gate is just a tiny bit high/uneven. The game needs a good shake to get the ball free for multi-ball.
Anyone else have this problem? Any easy way to adjust the gate?
Thank you!

Lift the playfield. There is an adjustment screw for the gate height. It's been covered in the thread a few times.

#8135 11 months ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Really....a great writeup. The community thanks you!
And....in your pic....I noticed THIS is what stern should have put in mine but instead used too long of a post.
[quoted image]
I went ahead and put the posts where they originally went on mine, and dremeled and sanded the top of my post. So now it looks like this ->
[quoted image]
As you can see....the plastic is still bent and I'm hoping that it "relaxes" with time, but I'm sure it will never lay flat again. It is better, but the ball can still touch the short blade and get potentially caught.
[quoted image]
I may reach out to stern and see if they will send me just the one plastic.
Edit: My JP was born June 2020....so new premium/LE owners might want to take a look under their helicopter to see what post they have on theirs.

As an update...Stern really had some good customer service for me and got back to me VERY quickly with my email and is sending out the plastic.

#8136 11 months ago

FYI, I just placed my new Jurassic Park lockbar mod in the Pinside market: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/105886

The banner was one of my favorite things on the DE JP, so I wanted to carry it over to this pin somehow.

IMG_4819 (resized).JPGIMG_4820 (resized).JPG
#8137 11 months ago

Question about the T-REX:

When my TREX goes to the down position with jaw open, it ever so slightly pushes on the right part of the ramp. I get about 15-20% inconsistencies with the ball going in the T-REX and I’m wondering if it has to do with him leaning on the ramp.

I’ve played around with the bias settings a ton but haven’t been able to keep him from leaning on the ramp. Mine seems to work about 80% of the time, but has Anyone else seen this or have inconsistent TREX grabs like this? Usually when it happens, the ball seems to hop and reject violently. I’m wondering if it could be the opto inside the TREX as well.

Any thoughts are appreciated.

#8138 11 months ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

Question about the T-REX:
When my TREX goes to the down position with jaw open, it ever so slightly pushes on the right part of the ramp. I get about 15-20% inconsistencies with the ball going in the T-REX and I’m wondering if it has to do with him leaning on the ramp.
I’ve played around with the bias settings a ton but haven’t been able to keep him from leaning on the ramp. Mine seems to work about 80% of the time, but has Anyone else seen this or have inconsistent TREX grabs like this? Usually when it happens, the ball seems to hop and reject violently. I’m wondering if it could be the opto inside the TREX as well.
Any thoughts are appreciated.

I guess I can scratch that. Just checked him and he’s not leaning on it anymore like he was a few days ago.

#8139 11 months ago

He does seem to be offset slightly to the left. Is that the same for you guys?

F2E9A39A-8ED9-4E88-B577-F3861BAA5E64 (resized).jpeg
#8140 11 months ago

My T-Rex will be perfectly centered over the ramp until the jaw opens and then it shifts slightly to the left as shown in your picture. On my machine the side of T-Rex’s jaw comes into contact with the right side of the ramp when he opens his mouth and that is what is pushing him a little towards the left. While this is definitely not ideal, I believe it is probably normal for most JP machines. Hopefully others will chime in to confirm.

#8141 11 months ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

He does seem to be offset slightly to the left. Is that the same for you guys?[quoted image]

This is how mine is positioned.

#8142 11 months ago

Cool. I’ll keep playing with it. Thanks for confirming.

#8143 11 months ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

He does seem to be offset slightly to the left. Is that the same for you guys?[quoted image]

Yep the same - being slightly over to the left isn't a bad thing as shooting the ramp from the right flipper you'll more likely to have the ball enter the ramp on that side (eg a slightly mis-hit shot can ricochet the ball off the left ramp wall into T-Rex's mouth)

#8144 11 months ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

He does seem to be offset slightly to the left. Is that the same for you guys?[quoted image]

Yep mine skews left a bit also. Have you tried the physical height adjustment so the mouth just barely touches the ramp when it opens? Might be worth checking. Here are a couple posts about it:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/18#post-5228793

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/13#post-5217546

#8145 11 months ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

He does seem to be offset slightly to the left. Is that the same for you guys?[quoted image]

She

#8146 11 months ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

Cool. I’ll keep playing with it.

#8147 11 months ago

Joined the billionaire club today! Love this game

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#8148 11 months ago

I just picked up a JP and wanted to ask about the people who are replacing the raptor figure with a aftermarket one. I noticed the stock raptor has a hammer style piece screwed to the underbelly and the figure itself pivots up and down. How are the making the aftermarket figure emulate that behavior?

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#8149 11 months ago

It was “Plant a Tree” day at the park, and things look a little greener now. Here is my original post explaining my planting methodology:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/140#post-5863800

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#8150 11 months ago

Nanny goat got turned around. I like it better in the same orientation as the one in the movie.

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