Melbourne
Quoted from Brady2Gronk:Seems like reseating the wire harnesses may have done the trick.
Great to know this was the issue and call out to EaglePin for enlightening all of us
(Topic ID: 248582)
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Jurassic Park (30th Anniversary LE)
Stern, 2023-
Jurassic Park (Limited Edition)
Stern, 2019
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Jurassic Park (Premium)
Stern, 2019
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Jurassic Park (Pro)
Stern, 2019
Topic Gallery
Fort Worth, TX
Hey guys.. what are you using to wax your playfield? I have large hands and they don't fit too well between objects. I basically get the main area but I cant get in to the harder areas. Was thinking of something like a toothbrush with a rag? Not sure.
Hold both flippers in for a second or too and it will drop the ball. Not sure if there is a setting since it is part of the gameplay.
Quoted from BC_Gambit:General question re: the settings; there are hundreds of menu options... is one of them a way to stop a dino from being active while the ball is trapped up (e.g. most noticeable during raptor lock or control room). You can easily lose what feels like an eternity (even if it is ~5-10 seconds) when the ball is trapped up.
Not a huge deal, but can be a big problem with fast dino's. e.g. I feel T rex can eat two people in the time it takes to get the control room animations started, picked a mode etc.
The obvious fix is "don't put the ball there when you don't want it to be there". I am just used to so many games pausing timers when in single ball play, and the ball is obviously stopped due to a game function. I was surprised to see the dinosaur's still marauding around while the game was otherwise stopped.
I know it's been addressed a few times already, but I wanted to bring it up again. The pins are still coming with the green plunger spring. I've only got a few games under my belt, but I'd say that I make the loop about 75% of the time. Shouldn't this be an every time if the shooter rod is pulled all the way back before release?
Anyway, I wanted to see what the overall change/success rate is for those of you who have changed to an orange plunger spring? Very frustrating if I have to buy an orange one when that is what is specified in the manual.
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from Mr_Tantrum:I know it's been addressed a few times already, but I wanted to bring it up again. The pins are still coming with the green plunger spring. I've only got a few games under my belt, but I'd say that I make the loop about 75% of the time. Shouldn't this be an every time if the shooter rod is pulled all the way back before release?
Anyway, I wanted to see what the overall change/success rate is for those of you who have changed to an orange plunger spring?
100% on my game with the orange spring.
If you get 100% with your auto-plunger but only 75% on the manual plunger - check that the manual plunger is striking the ball in the centre, if so then I'd suggest replacing your spring with an orange one. If you are getting less success on both the auto and manual plunger then it may be because the shooter lane fork needs adjusting.
Quoted from Manny65:100% on my game with the orange spring.
If you get 100% with your auto-plunger but only 75% on the manual plunger - check that the manual plunger is striking the ball in the centre, if so then I'd suggest replacing your spring with an orange one
Auto plunger is money every time. Alignment looks perfect to me, so I think that the orange spring is in my future. Would be nice to have it when my amber shooter rod arrives, so I'm only taking it apart once. BTW, never pulled apart a shooter rod, but I assume it is fairly simple?
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Auto plunger is money every time. Alignment looks perfect to me, so I think that the orange spring is in my future. Would be nice to have it when my amber shooter rod arrives, so I'm only taking it apart once. BTW, never pulled apart a shooter rod, but I assume it is fairly simple?
Shouldn't need to change the spring on the amber shooter rod. It's a full swap out of what's currently on your game and the spring that came on my amber rod is pretty strong. Yep it's easy to take a shooter rod assembly apart. The most delicate part is removing the rubber tip without damaging it. I put a towel over it and lightly grip it with the pliers and twist it back and forth to slowly lift it off, then reverse the process to put it back on. The rest is pretty straightforward just unscrewing the nuts and taking a C clip off.
Quoted from Hokie822:Hey guys.. what are you using to wax your playfield? I have large hands and they don't fit too well between objects. I basically get the main area but I cant get in to the harder areas. Was thinking of something like a toothbrush with a rag? Not sure.
I’m not a waxer, but I use these for cleaning. They can get pretty much anywhere I can’t get my fat fingers!
And I just use old t-shirt scraps wrapped around the end.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B281SLC/ref=cm_sw_r_oth_api_fabt1_h4kSFbWX6CD0P
always get some replacement c/e-clips for shooter rod maintenance. i can't get them off without trashing them.
Having a blast with my new JPP but I do have a couple questions.
1. Not sure how to use the smart missile, am I supposed to hit the lock bar button at some point to shoot it?
2. The bass speaker is rattling the glass a lot, was wondering about using an external sub. Are there external hookups for this?
Decided to create a magnetic decal that fits over the bill taker slot.
If anyone is interested in purchasing one, please PM me. I'll sell them for $12 including US Postage ($14 international). The one I decided to go with on my game (premium) features the dino from the premium backglass. I'm happy to use different graphics if anyone would like something different.
The images are printed on photo paper with a photo printer, a clear gloss vinyl is applied on top, decal is then adhered to a magnet sheet, cut to size, corners rounded, and all edges colored black to hide the white edge of the paper.
Quoted from Chopper36:Having a blast with my new JPP but I do have a couple questions.
1. Not sure how to use the smart missile, am I supposed to hit the lock bar button at some point to shoot it?
2. The bass speaker is rattling the glass a lot, was wondering about using an external sub. Are there external hookups for this?
During countdown for smart missile you can pick your bonus with the button on the lockdown bar. You have to move quick. The third hit will often offer extra ball if in a multiball mode or a few others modes. You can also start Raptor multi ball, clear the paddock, even collect a fossil. After it releases the ball you have to flip the ball up to the amber target (the target that also starts Chaos in the pops area) to collect the bonus. It’s a tough shot because the truck will always be placed in the way.
Bridport
I have a slight jeep mech issue. It's become slightly less fluid in its movement and when the jeep swings gently to the left side there can at times be no contact between the jeep ball and the Newton ball meaning hits don't register and the jeep can't be turned. If the ball goes in the pops or the Newton ball is hit a few times it goes into place and registers hits again. Any advice on how to fix? I don't even know how to take the mech apart...
Cornwall, PE
Did you print those 3d signs yourself?
Quoted from rockrand:Here is my version with the materials I had on hand
[quoted image]
Quoted from Huggers:I have a slight jeep mech issue. It's become slightly less fluid in its movement and when the jeep swings gently to the left side there can at times be no contact between the jeep ball and the Newton ball meaning hits don't register and the jeep can't be turned. If the ball goes in the pops or the Newton ball is hit a few times it goes into place and registers hits again. Any advice on how to fix? I don't even know how to take the mech apart...
Post 5270, or its in the key posts at top of page 
Quoted from Huggers:I have a slight jeep mech issue. It's become slightly less fluid in its movement and when the jeep swings gently to the left side there can at times be no contact between the jeep ball and the Newton ball meaning hits don't register and the jeep can't be turned. If the ball goes in the pops or the Newton ball is hit a few times it goes into place and registers hits again. Any advice on how to fix? I don't even know how to take the mech apart...
Wondering if you are have an issue with your bearing ring between the two washers on topside of playfield? Also, if you’ve adjusted the set screw on the underside recently, maybe the collar is too close to the bushing. You could loosen the set screw and slide the collar down a mm or less and retighten screw.
I'm a JP newbie, but just went through this yesterday when installing new rings on the mech. At first I didn't realize it but the bearing washer fell down into the cabinet when I took it apart. Put it all back together and the rotation wouldn't actually make it all the way around. Found the washer, buts still had a little issue when I realized the collar was on too tight. Just a slight adjustment, and now it rotates quite freely.
Quoted from weaverj:always get some replacement c/e-clips for shooter rod maintenance. i can't get them off without trashing them.
Mine always launch across the room and become invisible.
Quoted from jedi42:Did you print those 3d signs yourself?
Mezel mods and they really help light up the bulbs
Quoted from mbrave77:Where the heck is the extra ball shot? I dont see it on playfield. Im probably blind
Right swirly ramp. The sign on top has two lights; pteradon and extra ball.
I wondered that, but your colors look quite different from the mezel mods website.
Quoted from rockrand:Mezel mods and they really help light up the bulbs
Quoted from Huggers:I have a slight jeep mech issue. It's become slightly less fluid in its movement and when the jeep swings gently to the left side there can at times be no contact between the jeep ball and the Newton ball meaning hits don't register and the jeep can't be turned. If the ball goes in the pops or the Newton ball is hit a few times it goes into place and registers hits again. Any advice on how to fix? I don't even know how to take the mech apart...
Key word search both JP2 forums for "truck spin", "truck fix", "Jeep spin", "Jeep fix", "truck rotate", "Jeep rotate" etc. There's also a key post pinned at the top of this thread, but I don't know if that one relevant to the issue you're having since it doesn't necessarily address the gap issue. There are lots of posts about different troubleshooting ideas for it in the forums though. Here are a couple I just found that seem similar to your issue:
Quoted from Hokie822:Hey guys.. what are you using to wax your playfield? I have large hands and they don't fit too well between objects. I basically get the main area but I cant get in to the harder areas. Was thinking of something like a toothbrush with a rag? Not sure.
I use foam paint brushes from harbor freight
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Next mods are done: upgraded speakers throughout and speaker lights.
[quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image]
Love the lights. Wish they had a kit like this for the smaller standard speakers.
Quoted from 2manyhobbies:Love the lights. Wish they had a kit like this for the smaller standard speakers.
Thanks. They do all kinds of fancy stuff, but quite honestly I like them set to white along with the yellow surrounds I bought with them (matches the yellow stroke around the JP logo). The white cones of the Kenwood speakers are perfect for this use (probably why Stern chose them for their LE models).
Quoted from apayne82:I’m comparing purchase options for buying JP Pro, and would love some feedback. Would you get a new-in-box game, or a good condition routed JP with a few thousand plays for $700 less?
I’m leaning new, but am conflicted based on savings.
If you go with a routed JP Pro, don't buy one that was made before November 2019 as they are known for having playfield issues. The key giveaway is that the early ones don't have the artwork cut away from the posts.
All jokes aside a new pin will require some dialing in. If you don’t want to go to the trouble of that, a gently used one would be great Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Thanks. They do all kinds of fancy stuff, but quite honestly I like them set to white along with the yellow surrounds I bought with them (matches the yellow stroke around the JP logo). The white cones of the Kenwood speakers are a perfect for this use (probably why Stern chose them for their LE models).
I'm not sure why Stern went with the Kenwood 5.25" speakers in the LE games. Maybe it is because of their light colored speaker cones. Though....that just allows the light bleeding from the backboix to half assed shine through them and it makes the LE games look like something isn't working right on them as far as their non-existant speaker lighting goes. As it is....if I had and LE and didn't put a Speaker Light Kit in it....I would be looking for a way to block the backbox light from bleeding through the top part of the speaker cones.
...and as you have stated, there is no mandate that you have to have the light kits set to auto with the brightness turned up all the way. You can put them on white with the brightness turned down and at the very least....make them look as they should have from the factory instead of like something is not working right with them.
Doug (SpeakerLightKits.com)
BK low key speaker lights (resized).jpgPBL BrightButtons are installed. These are not really yellow (photo doesn't do the real color justice), but an amber color which is an exact match to the color of the pop caps.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:PBL BrightButtons are installed. These are not really yellow (photo doesn't do the real color justice), but an amber color which is an exact match to the color of the pop caps.
https://www.pinballlife.com/britebuttons-illuminated-flipper-button-set-for-jjp-wizard-of-oz-and-hobbit-pinball-machines.html
[quoted image]
Leg bolts next? for a nice little touch of color.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:And you thought bird poop in the eye was bad.
[quoted image]
HAHA.....Lockbar accent from tilt ??
Quoted from Royale-W-Cheese:HAHA.....Lockbar accent from tilt ??
Not yet, trying to decide if I like anything in that spot or not. Is it just a decal or does it have some kind of dimension to it? The more I think about it, it's not my favorite. However, I'm coming up blank for an alternative design that I could create. Any ideas from anyone?
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:The clear dome lens by the control room was blinding. I've seen others replace it with green, but I went with yellow and like it much better. Still bright, but muted enough to not blind you.
[quoted image]
Here’s what I went with .
C87C5584-0DB0-4F1E-B3AC-71E729CF66EF (resized).jpegQuoted from DugFreez:I'm not sure why Stern went with the Kenwood 5.25" speakers in the LE games. Maybe it is because of their light colored speaker cones. Though....that just allows the light bleeding from the backboix to half assed shine through them and it makes the LE games look like something isn't working right on them as far as their non-existant speaker lighting goes. As it is....if I had and LE and didn't put a Speaker Light Kit in it....I would be looking for a way to block the backbox light from bleeding through the top part of the speaker cones.
...and as you have stated, there is no mandate that you have to have the light kits set to auto with the brightness turned up all the way. You can put them on white with the brightness turned down and at the very least....make them look as they should have from the factory instead of like something is not working right with them.
Doug (SpeakerLightKits.com)[quoted image]
Everything the lights do is really cool, I just found the animations a little distracting for my taste (I tried the same with my flipper buttons, but in the end I went with solid lit at all times on those too). However, I absolutely love the product. Installation was straightforward and well document, the kit is well built and comes with everything you need, and the finished look speaks for itself. After you mentioned brightness adjustments, I messed around with my setup a little more. I landed on white as I had before, but 4 clicks down from max brightness.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:PBL BrightButtons are installed. These are not really yellow (photo doesn't do the real color justice), but an amber color which is an exact match to the color of the pop caps.
https://www.pinballlife.com/britebuttons-illuminated-flipper-button-set-for-jjp-wizard-of-oz-and-hobbit-pinball-machines.html
[quoted image]
They match the amber shooter rod pretty well too!
Quoted from J-Freeze:They match the amber shooter rod pretty well too!
I was hoping so. I'll get to see in a few days when mine arrives.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I was hoping so. I'll get to see in a few days when mine arrives.
You'll be happy.
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