(Topic ID: 248582)

Jurassic Park (Stern 2019) Owners Club. Welcome! To Jurassic park.....

By Scribbles

2 years ago


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#7951 11 months ago
Quoted from mbrave77:

where do you place the spots and what do they plug into?

It is very straight forward and comes with everything you need. No soldering required as it uses Comet's Matrix system where you replace a bulb under the sling and then connect extenders. Then use two post extensions and aim spotlights.

#7952 11 months ago

I needed to do some decals for customers today, so thought I would also work on my own version of the ramp decal with Pteranodon tracks. Took several shape adjustments, but I think the final product came out quite nice. I printed on adhesive vinyl, overlaid with a clear gloss vinyl, then cutout shape using my craft cutter.

IMG_4647.JPG

#7953 11 months ago

For those of you who have replaced all of the rings/rubbers, at first glance it looks like a fairly daunting task. I've already bought my Titan's, so it's definitely going to happen. However, I was wondering from those with experience what challenges to look for, and maybe areas that are a bit tricky along with any disassembly tips.

#7954 11 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

For those of you who have replaced all of the rings/rubbers, at first glance it looks like a fairly daunting task. I've already bought my Titan's, so it's definitely going to happen. However, I was wondering from those with experience what challenges to look for, and maybe areas that are a bit tricky along with any disassembly tips.

Honestly, it's not that bad. It's been a while, but as I remember, the worst spot was the posts in the back of the raptor pit. I did the whole machine in a few hours. Sorry, I didnt take photos and my memory is fuzzy. My machine was a NIB pre order, original run. So it's been well over a year.

#7955 11 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

For those of you who have replaced all of the rings/rubbers, at first glance it looks like a fairly daunting task. I've already bought my Titan's, so it's definitely going to happen. However, I was wondering from those with experience what challenges to look for, and maybe areas that are a bit tricky along with any disassembly tips.

The rubber ring right behind the bottom of the right ramp is the trickiest. You're going to have to remove the bolts there the playfield at the base of the ramp and the nut up in the back to get it done.

#7956 11 months ago

Oh boy I come seeking wisdom. Was just playing a game and noticed a screw popped off. But I have no idea where it does. Any ideas? Picture shows where it landed have not touched it.

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#7957 11 months ago
Quoted from dimthedaylights:

Oh boy I come seeking wisdom. Was just playing a game and noticed a screw popped off. But I have no idea where it does. Any ideas? Picture shows where it landed have not touched it.
[quoted image]

If you pan out, we can help look for a missing screw.

#7958 11 months ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

If you pan out, we can help look for a missing screw.

A137FCEA-C2FF-4104-A4F9-69294C33EBE5 (resized).jpeg
#7959 11 months ago
Quoted from MikeS:

I haven't tried this, but if your game isn't bright enough couldn't you just replace all of the GI bulbs with Comet 5 SMD insane bright leds in sunlight white? It would be a much cheaper/stealthier way to improve the brightness and visibility on your game. I can see just fine on my game even in complete darkness but I think I'd prefer going the stealth route vs. putting on spotlights or big strips of lighting that put "zebra stripes" all over your game.

I replaced the bulbs with Comet 2SMD in natural white and added 1 spotlight to the left sling, and it is plenty bright. Not a fan of pinstadiums on any game and I have yet to encounter a game where one or two spotlights couldn't fix any lighting issues. Even on my WoZ, which is infamous for being a poorly lit game, I only needed 2 spotlights and a trough light to sufficiently light up the playfield without using pinstadiums. And of course, for a fraction of the cost.

#7960 11 months ago

So great to see a bunch of JP2s getting delivered to people! This machine is awesome!

#7961 11 months ago

Finally got Jurassic Shoters back in stock.

https://www.classicgamerooms.com/pinball-parts/jurassic-park-shooter-knob-detail.html

JP_Shooter_on_game_1070x1070_crop_center (resized).jpg
#7962 11 months ago

Awesome! I just place my order - thank you!

#7963 11 months ago

I'm planning to place an order for the December batch of JP Pros. To fellow owners, are there any must-do preventative mods to prevent common issues? Just saw a post calling out the rail by the tower (on the other side of the raptor pen), and it causing playfield damage. Want to be sure I have needed parts on hand to install right after unboxing.

#7964 11 months ago

Thank you. Ive been waiting for this to become available again. Just ordered it. It will look good next to my primus.

Jason

#7965 11 months ago
Quoted from apayne82:

I'm planning to place an order for the December batch of JP Pros. To fellow owners, are there any must-do preventative mods to prevent common issues? Just saw a post calling out the rail by the tower (on the other side of the raptor pen), and it causing playfield damage. Want to be sure I have needed parts on hand to install right after unboxing.

Here's what I did under the apron and at the end of the ball guide at the left orbit entrance::

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/17#post-5225712

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/66#post-5328991

#7966 11 months ago
Quoted from apayne82:

I'm planning to place an order for the December batch of JP Pros. To fellow owners, are there any must-do preventative mods to prevent common issues? Just saw a post calling out the rail by the tower (on the other side of the raptor pen), and it causing playfield damage. Want to be sure I have needed parts on hand to install right after unboxing.

Theres a stuck ball area just to the left of the tower ramp entrance. A couple sticky nubs like these will close the gap.

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#7967 11 months ago
Quoted from mbrave77:

Im finally joining the club with a premium coming this weekend. Of course I cant find the shooter rod anywhere but what are the essential mods? Ill get a shaker, invisiglass and art blades. But what else?

I think you are opening a can of worms here as everyone's tastes are different and it depends what you are prepared to spend on your game. Certainly the shaker adds an extra element to the game while things like the shooter rod (now available at https://www.classicgamerooms.com/pinball-parts/jurassic-park-shooter-knob-detail.html), PDI/invisiglass and art blades are solely for looks. There are countless PF mods from replace trucks & helicopters, extra dinos, raptor pen and tower mods, trees ... While I can appreciate a lot of the guys pimped out machines, I tend to have minimal PF toys as I don't want it too busy/cluttered.

So my list would be:
Shaker
PDI glass
Blades
Maybe the shooter rod (the insects tend to be a bit hit or miss)
Helicopter
Pterodactyl
Raptor pen (Mezel mods)

Oh you may need extra lighting depending if you play in the dark

#7968 11 months ago
Quoted from dimthedaylights:

Oh boy I come seeking wisdom. Was just playing a game and noticed a screw popped off. But I have no idea where it does. Any ideas? Picture shows where it landed have not touched it.
[quoted image]

Could be of the T-Rex Tower? Mine lost one similar screw

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#7969 11 months ago
Quoted from Galvez1978:

Could be of the T-Rex Tower? Mine lost one similar screw[quoted image]

thought you were on to something! I’ve scanned the play field for like an hour and nothing is popping out. All my tower screws are still there

#7970 11 months ago

I was doing some re-dialing in on a few components and after double checking the tower ramp flap screw was still good, I happened to check out the left ramp as like others have commented sometimes the ball will rattle in the ramp and come back down. What I found was that the ramp flap rivet heads, particularly the right one, are positioned where by the ball will clip it. The ramp has a wider entrance allowing the ball to be shot from both the right and left flipper - the entrance posts don't shield the rivets heads and as this ramp is plastic (the ramp floor curves up the sides rather than being a square corner) the ramp flap is narrower and consequently the rivets are moved in. The left rivet only marginally touches and I don't think mine would impact a shot, however any ball that is shot on the right side the ramp entrance (which in general is typically less often due to shot geometry) is definitely going to be deflected by the rivet head. And this could also affect T-Rex catching the ball ...

I've not seen this mentioned previously by anyone, so interested if others can check their machines and post a few pics for comparison.

Any thoughts on how to fix this would also be welcome

Left Ramp1 (resized).jpgLeft Ramp2 (resized).jpgLeft Ramp3 (resized).jpg
#7971 11 months ago

Found where the screw was from: used the manual. Under T. rex jaw

#7972 11 months ago
Quoted from dimthedaylights:

Found where the screw was from: used the manual. Under T. rex jaw

Locktite FTW!

#7973 11 months ago

Suggest: Locktite Blue (Semi perm), instead of RED (perm)

#7974 11 months ago
Quoted from apayne82:

I'm planning to place an order for the December batch of JP Pros. To fellow owners, are there any must-do preventative mods to prevent common issues? Just saw a post calling out the rail by the tower (on the other side of the raptor pen), and it causing playfield damage. Want to be sure I have needed parts on hand to install right after unboxing.

Coil stops. Very common issue. I read enough about them failing that I just replaced them before I ever plunged a ball.

#7975 11 months ago

Yesss, thank you! I've been looking for this for so long.

#7976 11 months ago

So, I'm installing my rings and I ordered 8 7/16" OD based upon the manual (#6). However, the game is missing the one shown on the schematic that goes to the left of the raptor pit. Is this for Pro only? I have the Premium/LE manual (I own a Premium) so maybe an oversight on Stern's part?

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#7977 11 months ago

manuals are usually worthless for rubbers. i always do my own inventory.

#7978 11 months ago

to all the guys talking about lighting, just play the game with your overheads on, lol.

#7979 11 months ago
Quoted from weaverj:

to all the guys talking about lighting, just play the game with your overheads on, lol.

Great idea

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#7980 11 months ago

a lot cheaper...

#7981 11 months ago
Quoted from weaverj:

a lot cheaper...

True statement

#7982 11 months ago
Quoted from weaverj:

a lot cheaper...

I can't play in the dark, it hurts my eyes. Maybe I'm just old. About the only reason I'd entertain something like Pinstadium is for UV for my GB to light up GITD rubbers and my proton stream mod. Still having a hard time with the $300 price tag though. $150 is a more digestible price point for me. I might try to rig up something DIY with a dedicated uv light strip if I can drum up the effort at some point.

#7983 11 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

I was doing some re-dialing in on a few components and after double checking the tower ramp flap screw was still good, I happened to check out the left ramp as like others have commented sometimes the ball will rattle in the ramp and come back down. What I found was that the ramp flap rivet heads, particularly the right one, are positioned where by the ball will clip it. The ramp has a wider entrance allowing the ball to be shot from both the right and left flipper - the entrance posts don't shield the rivets heads and as this ramp is plastic (the ramp floor curves up the sides rather than being a square corner) the ramp flap is narrower and consequently the rivets are moved in. The left rivet only marginally touches and I don't think mine would impact a shot, however any ball that is shot on the right side the ramp entrance (which in general is typically less often due to shot geometry) is definitely going to be deflected by the rivet head. And this could also affect T-Rex catching the ball ...
I've not seen this mentioned previously by anyone, so interested if others can check their machines and post a few pics for comparison.
Any thoughts on how to fix this would also be welcome [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Good find; I was going to investigate my ramp rejects and see what was up. I will check my game (likely later today) and see if I can confirm what you found.

My "possible temp" fix will be to build up the area with some vinyl I have to see if I can make the rivets less pronounced; I may have to shim the plastic guard up top as well; TBD. If that ends up working lot term fixes may be something like a cliffy style carbon fiber adhesive ramp flap, but I am hoping some other options present themselves.

#7984 11 months ago

General question re: the settings; there are hundreds of menu options... is one of them a way to stop a dino from being active while the ball is trapped up (e.g. most noticeable during raptor lock or control room). You can easily lose what feels like an eternity (even if it is ~5-10 seconds) when the ball is trapped up.

Not a huge deal, but can be a big problem with fast dino's. e.g. I feel T rex can eat two people in the time it takes to get the control room animations started, picked a mode etc.

The obvious fix is "don't put the ball there when you don't want it to be there". I am just used to so many games pausing timers when in single ball play, and the ball is obviously stopped due to a game function. I was surprised to see the dinosaur's still marauding around while the game was otherwise stopped.

#7985 11 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

I was doing some re-dialing in on a few components and after double checking the tower ramp flap screw was still good, I happened to check out the left ramp as like others have commented sometimes the ball will rattle in the ramp and come back down. What I found was that the ramp flap rivet heads, particularly the right one, are positioned where by the ball will clip it. The ramp has a wider entrance allowing the ball to be shot from both the right and left flipper - the entrance posts don't shield the rivets heads and as this ramp is plastic (the ramp floor curves up the sides rather than being a square corner) the ramp flap is narrower and consequently the rivets are moved in. The left rivet only marginally touches and I don't think mine would impact a shot, however any ball that is shot on the right side the ramp entrance (which in general is typically less often due to shot geometry) is definitely going to be deflected by the rivet head. And this could also affect T-Rex catching the ball ...
I've not seen this mentioned previously by anyone, so interested if others can check their machines and post a few pics for comparison.
Any thoughts on how to fix this would also be welcome [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Great post. I just got my game and this totally explains why my T-Rex catches the ball so often when I shoot the left side of the ramp, and not so much on the right. I don’t have a fix or tweak yet, but you are not alone

#7986 11 months ago

Having a problem with the eject on my JP. Wanted to see if anyone else having same problem. It’s launching but as game goes on the power gets less and less so it won’t make the U turn. I’ve turned power up to Max and even changed the coil. Any suggestions?? Thanks.

#7987 11 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

I was doing some re-dialing in on a few components and after double checking the tower ramp flap screw was still good, I happened to check out the left ramp as like others have commented sometimes the ball will rattle in the ramp and come back down. What I found was that the ramp flap rivet heads, particularly the right one, are positioned where by the ball will clip it. The ramp has a wider entrance allowing the ball to be shot from both the right and left flipper - the entrance posts don't shield the rivets heads and as this ramp is plastic (the ramp floor curves up the sides rather than being a square corner) the ramp flap is narrower and consequently the rivets are moved in. The left rivet only marginally touches and I don't think mine would impact a shot, however any ball that is shot on the right side the ramp entrance (which in general is typically less often due to shot geometry) is definitely going to be deflected by the rivet head. And this could also affect T-Rex catching the ball ...
I've not seen this mentioned previously by anyone, so interested if others can check their machines and post a few pics for comparison.
Any thoughts on how to fix this would also be welcome [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

As a further follow up; on my game for the left RAMP, the left most rivet is fine, but you are correct that the right rivet is well inside the ball's travel path.

I built up the area with my cling vinyl, and will do some more testing. I did some testing initially, but it is hard to separate just getting better at the shot when you are repeatedly testing the same shot from the flipper over and over again. Off to play a game or two!

#7988 11 months ago

Cliffy install complete.

IMG_4673 (resized).JPGIMG_4674 (resized).JPGIMG_4675 (resized).JPG
#7989 11 months ago

Plastic protectors and Titan install complete. If you like my ring selection, you can order it here (scroll down to Chris Z. entry): https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/browse/bygame/5738

All orange in the sling/flipper/return area, orange in the pops area, green for upper flipper and post, and yellow everywhere else.

IMG_4664 (resized).JPGIMG_4665 (resized).JPG
IMG_4667 (resized).JPGIMG_4668 (resized).JPGIMG_4669 (resized).JPGIMG_4670 (resized).JPGIMG_4671 (resized).JPG

#7990 11 months ago

Just played my inaugural game after installing Cliffy protectors and Titan rings. This is my first Stern, and there's just something about the look and feel of it that is different from the other brands, and I really like it. I already had the ball get stuck on the upper gate, so I'll need to make that adjustment. Hit the smart missile on my first opportunity ever, and that was fun. Also, it is going to take some time for me to het use to hitting the ball off the helix. I just kept starring at it go by my flipper before I remembered to try to hit it.

Now off to do Christmas lights, and maybe I'll get a few games in tonight before I resume with the mod installation.

#7991 11 months ago
Quoted from Brady2Gronk:

Having a problem with the eject on my JP. Wanted to see if anyone else having same problem. It’s launching but as game goes on the power gets less and less so it won’t make the U turn. I’ve turned power up to Max and even changed the coil. Any suggestions?? Thanks.

I had this problem on mine once. Auto launch would start out strong but then get weaker as the game went on. I wiggled and pushed on all the wiring connections from the auto launch coil to the connectors at the board. After that I didn't have the problem again. Had to have been a loose connection somewhere but I don't know which connection it was since I'd pushed on them all.

#7992 11 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I already had the ball get stuck on the upper gate, so I'll need to make that adjustment.

Yep common problem. You don't need to remove the one way gate, just raise the left hand side marginally up (the circled end of the bracket should be just above the top of the ball guide). There is no need to loosen where the bracket attaches on the right side, as there is enough flex in the bracket to lift it the 1-2mms you need.

JP2 Spinner Gate (resized).jpg
#7993 11 months ago
Quoted from BC_Gambit:

Good find; I was going to investigate my ramp rejects and see what was up. I will check my game (likely later today) and see if I can confirm what you found.
My "possible temp" fix will be to build up the area with some vinyl I have to see if I can make the rivets less pronounced; I may have to shim the plastic guard up top as well; TBD. If that ends up working lot term fixes may be something like a cliffy style carbon fiber adhesive ramp flap, but I am hoping some other options present themselves.

Quoted from BC_Gambit:

As a further follow up; on my game for the left RAMP, the left most rivet is fine, but you are correct that the right rivet is well inside the ball's travel path.
I built up the area with my cling vinyl, and will do some more testing. I did some testing initially, but it is hard to separate just getting better at the shot when you are repeatedly testing the same shot from the flipper over and over again. Off to play a game or two!

Hey thanks for checking this out and confirming it's not just my machine - your 2 fix options were along the same line as my thoughts. A less pronounced rivet head could reduce the deflection but may not totally solve the issue, and laying down mylar/vinyl to build up the area would require a few layers to get it above the head. In thinking about it more, maybe a combination of the two would work well ... while I prefer to keep the ramp flap I like your idea of a cliffy style carbon fiber adhesive ramp flap.

I know what you mean about testing, once I knew about the rivet head I continually centered every ramp shot after that ... maybe this is how I should practice all my shots from now on

#7994 11 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Yep common problem. You don't need to remove the one way gate, just raise the left hand side marginally up (the circled end of the bracket should be just above the top of the ball guide). There is no need to loosen where the bracket attaches on the right side, as there is enough flex in the bracket to lift it the 1-2mms you need.[quoted image]

Thanks, saves me from having to search back through the thread.

FYI, I ended up having to bend the top of mine inward in addition to adjusting the height. After a couple of tweaks and testing everything is perfect up there now.

#7995 11 months ago

game coming tomorrow and I dunno if Ive asked. What pitch is the best for this game to be played at?

#7996 11 months ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

I had this problem on mine once. Auto launch would start out strong but then get weaker as the game went on. I wiggled and pushed on all the wiring connections from the auto launch coil to the connectors at the board. After that I didn't have the problem again. Had to have been a loose connection somewhere but I don't know which connection it was since I'd pushed on them all.

Thanks for the tip. I’ll try it out. Thanks again.

#7997 11 months ago
Quoted from mbrave77:

game coming tomorrow and I dunno if Ive asked. What pitch is the best for this game to be played at?

6.8-7.0 at the flippers. Keith says designed to be at 7.0 some have found that 6.8 is the sweet spot on some games

#7998 11 months ago
Quoted from Brady2Gronk:

Having a problem with the eject on my JP. Wanted to see if anyone else having same problem. It’s launching but as game goes on the power gets less and less so it won’t make the U turn. I’ve turned power up to Max and even changed the coil. Any suggestions?? Thanks.

Chk youtube vids how to fix. You need to put a washer under the metal ball guide on one side to level it. Also, turn the power down. You will destroy your shooter lane with full power. Lastly, order some mylar and cover your shooter lane. Have fun!

#7999 11 months ago
Quoted from Boblabla:

Chk youtube vids how to fix. You need to put a washer under the metal ball guide on one side to level it. Also, turn the power down. You will destroy your shooter lane with full power. Lastly, order some mylar and cover your shooter lane. Have fun!

Putting mylar on to avoid damage to the shooter lane and turning the coil power down is associated with the trough eject (that throws the ball into the shooter lane), not plunging the ball to make the U ramp - this is a different coil.

#8000 11 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Putting mylar on to avoid damage to the shooter lane and turning the coil power down is associated with the trough eject (that throws the ball into the shooter lane), not plunging the ball to make the U ramp - this is a different coil.

Correct. It was the auto launch coil I’m struggling with. Seems like reseating the wire harnesses may have done the trick.

I already have Cliffy’s on the shooter lane tho.

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