It is very straight forward and comes with everything you need. No soldering required as it uses Comet's Matrix system where you replace a bulb under the sling and then connect extenders. Then use two post extensions and aim spotlights.

I needed to do some decals for customers today, so thought I would also work on my own version of the ramp decal with Pteranodon tracks. Took several shape adjustments, but I think the final product came out quite nice. I printed on adhesive vinyl, overlaid with a clear gloss vinyl, then cutout shape using my craft cutter.

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For those of you who have replaced all of the rings/rubbers, at first glance it looks like a fairly daunting task. I've already bought my Titan's, so it's definitely going to happen. However, I was wondering from those with experience what challenges to look for, and maybe areas that are a bit tricky along with any disassembly tips.

The rubber ring right behind the bottom of the right ramp is the trickiest. You're going to have to remove the bolts there the playfield at the base of the ramp and the nut up in the back to get it done.

Oh boy I come seeking wisdom. Was just playing a game and noticed a screw popped off. But I have no idea where it does. Any ideas? Picture shows where it landed have not touched it.

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If you pan out, we can help look for a missing screw.

I replaced the bulbs with Comet 2SMD in natural white and added 1 spotlight to the left sling, and it is plenty bright. Not a fan of pinstadiums on any game and I have yet to encounter a game where one or two spotlights couldn't fix any lighting issues. Even on my WoZ, which is infamous for being a poorly lit game, I only needed 2 spotlights and a trough light to sufficiently light up the playfield without using pinstadiums. And of course, for a fraction of the cost.

So great to see a bunch of JP2s getting delivered to people! This machine is awesome!

Finally got Jurassic Shoters back in stock.

https://www.classicgamerooms.com/pinball-parts/jurassic-park-shooter-knob-detail.html

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Awesome! I just place my order - thank you!

I'm planning to place an order for the December batch of JP Pros. To fellow owners, are there any must-do preventative mods to prevent common issues? Just saw a post calling out the rail by the tower (on the other side of the raptor pen), and it causing playfield damage. Want to be sure I have needed parts on hand to install right after unboxing.

Thank you. Ive been waiting for this to become available again. Just ordered it. It will look good next to my primus.

Jason

Here's what I did under the apron and at the end of the ball guide at the left orbit entrance::

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/17#post-5225712

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/66#post-5328991

I think you are opening a can of worms here as everyone's tastes are different and it depends what you are prepared to spend on your game. Certainly the shaker adds an extra element to the game while things like the shooter rod (now available at https://www.classicgamerooms.com/pinball-parts/jurassic-park-shooter-knob-detail.html), PDI/invisiglass and art blades are solely for looks. There are countless PF mods from replace trucks & helicopters, extra dinos, raptor pen and tower mods, trees ... While I can appreciate a lot of the guys pimped out machines, I tend to have minimal PF toys as I don't want it too busy/cluttered.

So my list would be:
Shaker
PDI glass
Blades
Maybe the shooter rod (the insects tend to be a bit hit or miss)
Helicopter
Pterodactyl
Raptor pen (Mezel mods)

Oh you may need extra lighting depending if you play in the dark

Could be of the T-Rex Tower? Mine lost one similar screw

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thought you were on to something! I’ve scanned the play field for like an hour and nothing is popping out. All my tower screws are still there

I was doing some re-dialing in on a few components and after double checking the tower ramp flap screw was still good, I happened to check out the left ramp as like others have commented sometimes the ball will rattle in the ramp and come back down. What I found was that the ramp flap rivet heads, particularly the right one, are positioned where by the ball will clip it. The ramp has a wider entrance allowing the ball to be shot from both the right and left flipper - the entrance posts don't shield the rivets heads and as this ramp is plastic (the ramp floor curves up the sides rather than being a square corner) the ramp flap is narrower and consequently the rivets are moved in. The left rivet only marginally touches and I don't think mine would impact a shot, however any ball that is shot on the right side the ramp entrance (which in general is typically less often due to shot geometry) is definitely going to be deflected by the rivet head. And this could also affect T-Rex catching the ball ...

I've not seen this mentioned previously by anyone, so interested if others can check their machines and post a few pics for comparison.

Any thoughts on how to fix this would also be welcome

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Found where the screw was from: used the manual. Under T. rex jaw

Locktite FTW!

Suggest: Locktite Blue (Semi perm), instead of RED (perm)

Coil stops. Very common issue. I read enough about them failing that I just replaced them before I ever plunged a ball.

So, I'm installing my rings and I ordered 8 7/16" OD based upon the manual (#6). However, the game is missing the one shown on the schematic that goes to the left of the raptor pit. Is this for Pro only? I have the Premium/LE manual (I own a Premium) so maybe an oversight on Stern's part?

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manuals are usually worthless for rubbers. i always do my own inventory.

to all the guys talking about lighting, just play the game with your overheads on, lol.

Great idea

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a lot cheaper...

True statement

I can't play in the dark, it hurts my eyes. Maybe I'm just old. About the only reason I'd entertain something like Pinstadium is for UV for my GB to light up GITD rubbers and my proton stream mod. Still having a hard time with the $300 price tag though. $150 is a more digestible price point for me. I might try to rig up something DIY with a dedicated uv light strip if I can drum up the effort at some point.

Good find; I was going to investigate my ramp rejects and see what was up. I will check my game (likely later today) and see if I can confirm what you found.

My "possible temp" fix will be to build up the area with some vinyl I have to see if I can make the rivets less pronounced; I may have to shim the plastic guard up top as well; TBD. If that ends up working lot term fixes may be something like a cliffy style carbon fiber adhesive ramp flap, but I am hoping some other options present themselves.

General question re: the settings; there are hundreds of menu options... is one of them a way to stop a dino from being active while the ball is trapped up (e.g. most noticeable during raptor lock or control room). You can easily lose what feels like an eternity (even if it is ~5-10 seconds) when the ball is trapped up.

Not a huge deal, but can be a big problem with fast dino's. e.g. I feel T rex can eat two people in the time it takes to get the control room animations started, picked a mode etc.

The obvious fix is "don't put the ball there when you don't want it to be there". I am just used to so many games pausing timers when in single ball play, and the ball is obviously stopped due to a game function. I was surprised to see the dinosaur's still marauding around while the game was otherwise stopped.

Great post. I just got my game and this totally explains why my T-Rex catches the ball so often when I shoot the left side of the ramp, and not so much on the right. I don’t have a fix or tweak yet, but you are not alone

Having a problem with the eject on my JP. Wanted to see if anyone else having same problem. It’s launching but as game goes on the power gets less and less so it won’t make the U turn. I’ve turned power up to Max and even changed the coil. Any suggestions?? Thanks.

As a further follow up; on my game for the left RAMP, the left most rivet is fine, but you are correct that the right rivet is well inside the ball's travel path.

I built up the area with my cling vinyl, and will do some more testing. I did some testing initially, but it is hard to separate just getting better at the shot when you are repeatedly testing the same shot from the flipper over and over again. Off to play a game or two!

Cliffy install complete.

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Plastic protectors and Titan install complete. If you like my ring selection, you can order it here (scroll down to Chris Z. entry): https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/browse/bygame/5738

All orange in the sling/flipper/return area, orange in the pops area, green for upper flipper and post, and yellow everywhere else.

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Just played my inaugural game after installing Cliffy protectors and Titan rings. This is my first Stern, and there's just something about the look and feel of it that is different from the other brands, and I really like it. I already had the ball get stuck on the upper gate, so I'll need to make that adjustment. Hit the smart missile on my first opportunity ever, and that was fun. Also, it is going to take some time for me to het use to hitting the ball off the helix. I just kept starring at it go by my flipper before I remembered to try to hit it.

Now off to do Christmas lights, and maybe I'll get a few games in tonight before I resume with the mod installation.

I had this problem on mine once. Auto launch would start out strong but then get weaker as the game went on. I wiggled and pushed on all the wiring connections from the auto launch coil to the connectors at the board. After that I didn't have the problem again. Had to have been a loose connection somewhere but I don't know which connection it was since I'd pushed on them all.

Yep common problem. You don't need to remove the one way gate, just raise the left hand side marginally up (the circled end of the bracket should be just above the top of the ball guide). There is no need to loosen where the bracket attaches on the right side, as there is enough flex in the bracket to lift it the 1-2mms you need.

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Hey thanks for checking this out and confirming it's not just my machine - your 2 fix options were along the same line as my thoughts. A less pronounced rivet head could reduce the deflection but may not totally solve the issue, and laying down mylar/vinyl to build up the area would require a few layers to get it above the head. In thinking about it more, maybe a combination of the two would work well ... while I prefer to keep the ramp flap I like your idea of a cliffy style carbon fiber adhesive ramp flap.

I know what you mean about testing, once I knew about the rivet head I continually centered every ramp shot after that ... maybe this is how I should practice all my shots from now on

Thanks, saves me from having to search back through the thread.

FYI, I ended up having to bend the top of mine inward in addition to adjusting the height. After a couple of tweaks and testing everything is perfect up there now.

game coming tomorrow and I dunno if Ive asked. What pitch is the best for this game to be played at?

Thanks for the tip. I’ll try it out. Thanks again.

6.8-7.0 at the flippers. Keith says designed to be at 7.0 some have found that 6.8 is the sweet spot on some games

Chk youtube vids how to fix. You need to put a washer under the metal ball guide on one side to level it. Also, turn the power down. You will destroy your shooter lane with full power. Lastly, order some mylar and cover your shooter lane. Have fun!

Putting mylar on to avoid damage to the shooter lane and turning the coil power down is associated with the trough eject (that throws the ball into the shooter lane), not plunging the ball to make the U ramp - this is a different coil.

Correct. It was the auto launch coil I’m struggling with. Seems like reseating the wire harnesses may have done the trick.

I already have Cliffy’s on the shooter lane tho.