Jurassic Park (30th Anniversary LE)
Stern, 2023
Jurassic Park (Limited Edition)
Stern, 2019
Jurassic Park (Premium)
Stern, 2019
Jurassic Park (Pro)
Stern, 2019Quoted from Sluggo39:The carbon fiber has an adhesive back. I let Cliff know it worked he can make more contact him @ passionforpinball.com
This looks fine but removing the screw and putting down some mylar is basically free and just as effective
Quoted from ectobar:This looks fine but removing the screw and putting down some mylar is basically free and just as effective
The orbit on Iron Maiden that Stern mylar’d says different it bubbles and lifts. Do what you want I just showed my idea and it works quite well.
Quoted from Sluggo39:The orbit on Iron Maiden that Stern mylar’d says different it bubbles and lifts. Do what you want I just showed my idea and it works quite well.
And it's from Cliffy!
Quoted from Sluggo39:The carbon fiber has an adhesive back. I let Cliff know it worked he can make more contact him @ passionforpinball.com
Already did!
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:Im no expert regarding the t-rex and having a few rejects by myself but i will try to help
1. Level your game from side to side and get it to 7° degrees, its designed for 7 and small changes can make a big difference. Use a digital leveler and calibrate(!) it, dont use a smartphone.
2. the airball protector is there to keep the ball low enough for the trex mouth, if you remove the washers its too low, and you will get even more rattling balls in the left ramp (I tested this).
3. record a shot in the mouth in slow motion and make sure there is no phyical problem!
4. check if the opto is triggering at the ramp entrance
5. the opened trex`s jaw should kind of touch the ramp as i remember
6. there is a pdf somewhere from stern how to adjust the trex
7. if nothing helps, there is an adjustment where the the shot counts, even if the trex is not eating the ball, so its much less frustrating but you dont have to disable the mech
Thanks for this! It's my fault, but I should have made clear I'm on a Pro, so there's not much I can do about adjusting the t-rex unfortunately. I will look at levelling side to side -- I think it's pretty flat, but it's a good shout to double-check.
Quoted from jawjaw:Having same problem on my pro. Not that often but often enough to be frustrating. Weird thing is that it only became an issue when I removed pf plastic protector. Removing pf protector changed angle of ramp flap a bit so maybe that is introducing more air balls. Hard to tell what the problem is because ball goes straight up ramp, goes behind backboard, but then comes straight down ramp. What looks like the same exact shot will go straight through. I don't think it's the trex. Ball would have to get some serious air to hit that.
Interesting about the pf protector. I've heard people say to make sure the metal flap which goes on to the ramp is flat, but mine appears to be (eg. there's no curve -- it just goes up straight from where it touches the pf, onto the plastic ramp). The fact your pf protector made it better suggests that it could be something to do with how it gets on to the ramp, though. I'll have a mull. Maybe I need to investigate some thicker mylar, and extending the metal on-ramp out a bit..
OK, I've tried googling "jurassic park ball trap helicopter" but don't see any posts. I keep getting ball traps in the helicopter blades. Do I need to add different washer weights on the blades or ? It seems like it could always be a possibility to get a ball trap here if the blades catch the ball at just the right time?
Quoted from Gogdog:OK, I've tried googling "jurassic park ball trap helicopter" but don't see any posts. I keep getting ball traps in the helicopter blades. Do I need to add different washer weights on the blades or ? It seems like it could always be a possibility to get a ball trap here if the blades catch the ball at just the right time?
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I'll have to double check but I don't think the short blade is supposed to make contact with the ball.
I've got a few thousand games through mine and I can count on one hand the amount of times a ball has gotten trapped by the blades
Quoted from Gogdog:OK, I've tried googling "jurassic park ball trap helicopter" but don't see any posts. I keep getting ball traps in the helicopter blades. Do I need to add different washer weights on the blades or ? It seems like it could always be a possibility to get a ball trap here if the blades catch the ball at just the right time?
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Is it possible for you to move that ramp wireform slightly to the right? Usually there is some room for adjustment.
Quoted from Gogdog:OK, I've tried googling "jurassic park ball trap helicopter" but don't see any posts. I keep getting ball traps in the helicopter blades. Do I need to add different washer weights on the blades or ? It seems like it could always be a possibility to get a ball trap here if the blades catch the ball at just the right time?
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Shouldn't need to change the weights on the blades
There are a few things to check. Early on there were a few reports where the blades slightly catch the wireform - Stern advise not to attempt moving the helicopter but rather try moving (or bending) the wireform away from the blades. The other thing to check is if the blade spins freely by itself, there have been a few cases where the sensor/bracket below the PF has be rubbing on the shaft - this extra friction can be just enough to stop a slow ball (that just manages to make it up the ramp) to turn the blades. This post will help https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/69#post-5339641 Also what pitch do you have the PF at? Keith has mentioned that the game was designed at 7 degrees, so if you are using a lesser pitch then this would reduce the momentum a slow ball has to turn the blades
Ugh, my JP Premium was supposed to arrive Friday and I would spend my weekend installing the many mods I have waiting. Damn stalled trained in Chicago.... now being delivered Monday.
Quoted from Manny65:Shouldn't need to change the weights on the blades
There are a few things to check. The other thing to check is if the blade spins freely by itself, there have been a few cases where the sensor/bracket below the PF has be rubbing on the shaft - this extra friction can be just enough to stop a slow ball (that just manages to make it up the ramp) to turn the blades. This post will help https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/69#post-5339641 Also what pitch do you have the PF at? Keith has mentioned that the game was designed at 7 degrees, so if you are using a lesser pitch then this would reduce the momentum a slow ball has to turn the blades
Check under Neath the playfield. I had that problem before and made and adjutment and It has worked fine for 9 months - no problems
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:Im no expert regarding the t-rex and having a few rejects by myself but i will try to help
1. Level your game from side to side and get it to 7° degrees, its designed for 7 and small changes can make a big difference. Use a digital leveler and calibrate(!) it, dont use a smartphone.
2. the airball protector is there to keep the ball low enough for the trex mouth, if you remove the washers its too low, and you will get even more rattling balls in the left ramp (I tested this).
3. record a shot in the mouth in slow motion and make sure there is no phyical problem!
4. check if the opto is triggering at the ramp entrance
5. the opened trex`s jaw should kind of touch the ramp as i remember
6. there is a pdf somewhere from stern how to adjust the trex
7. if nothing helps, there is an adjustment where the the shot counts, even if the trex is not eating the ball, so its much less frustrating but you dont have to disable the mech
Just curious how #7 would help if the opto (#4) is not triggering regularly. In other words, if #4 isn’t checking-out, #7 would not help.
I'm a first time owner (got my JP Pro Friday night) and I've never learned to nudge a machine. Is there a setting that I can turn the Tilt off or at least reduce the sensitivity to practice nudging without tilting? I changed the Tilt warning from 2 to 3, but that's the only setting I can find. Thanks in advance!
Quoted from gaubster:Is there a setting that I can turn the Tilt off or at least reduce the sensitivity to practice nudging without tilting?
You can physically adjust the weight of the tilt bob on the inside of the machine so it hangs lower. That will make it less sensitive to nudging.
Quoted from gaubster:I'm a first time owner (got my JP Pro Friday night) and I've never learned to nudge a machine. Is there a setting that I can turn the Tilt off or at least reduce the sensitivity to practice nudging without tilting? I changed the Tilt warning from 2 to 3, but that's the only setting I can find. Thanks in advance!
Most modern sterns have a tilt debounce setting the adjustments menu. You can try increasing it as well as adjusting the physical tilt bob that dangles inside the machine just to the left of the coin door.
Quoted from Eskaybee:Most modern sterns have a tilt debounce setting the adjustments menu. You can try increasing it as well as adjusting the physical tilt bob that dangles inside the machine just to the left of the coin door.
That worked! Thanks a bunch!
New question. Does this look correct? The supply drop target looks to be leaning towards the left (in front of the inner loop fed by the third flipper). I've had a lot of rejected balls that don't make that inner loop. The chrome is now rubbing off (wasn't like that last night). Anybody else have this issue? Does this target look askew? I'm not sure how to fix this one as it's solidly affixed. I appreciate any advice as this is my first machine. Thanks!
0C0CE72E-DC4D-46C5-8F15-92F242BACF0D (resized).jpegQuoted from gaubster:New question. Does this look correct? The supply drop target looks to be leaning towards the left (in front of the inner loop fed by the third flipper). I've had a lot of rejected balls that don't make that inner loop. The chrome is now rubbing off (wasn't like that last night). Anybody else have this issue? Does this target look askew? I'm not sure how to fix this one as it's solidly affixed. I appreciate any advice as this is my first machine. Thanks!
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I would think you could just bend it over to the right a bit. I take all the tilt bobs out of my machines, I have more fun that way!
Quoted from gaubster:New question. Does this look correct? The supply drop target looks to be leaning towards the left (in front of the inner loop fed by the third flipper). I've had a lot of rejected balls that don't make that inner loop. The chrome is now rubbing off (wasn't like that last night). Anybody else have this issue? Does this target look askew? I'm not sure how to fix this one as it's solidly affixed. I appreciate any advice as this is my first machine. Thanks!
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One rookie question, why have negative numbers some parts of the pinball? The supply drop target have -20, but all the playfield have de same kind of numbers.
Quoted from gaubster:New question. Does this look correct? The supply drop target looks to be leaning towards the left (in front of the inner loop fed by the third flipper). I've had a lot of rejected balls that don't make that inner loop. The chrome is now rubbing off (wasn't like that last night). Anybody else have this issue? Does this target look askew? I'm not sure how to fix this one as it's solidly affixed. I appreciate any advice as this is my first machine. Thanks!
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While Stern have implemented an anti-lean bracket (which is used in JP), there is still the chance you can experience the standup targets somewhat leaning - they can be simply straightened up without lifting the PF however if they continue to move then you may need to re-tighten the actual targets under the PF.
Quoted from gaubster:New question. Does this look correct? The supply drop target looks to be leaning towards the left (in front of the inner loop fed by the third flipper). I've had a lot of rejected balls that don't make that inner loop. The chrome is now rubbing off (wasn't like that last night). Anybody else have this issue? Does this target look askew? I'm not sure how to fix this one as it's solidly affixed. I appreciate any advice as this is my first machine. Thanks!
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This ones easy, lift the playfield, locate the leaning target, there is an anti sway metal bracket that holds the target and switch in alignment. Loosen the 2 screws just slightly, reposition the target on top of the playfield and retighten.
Quoted from Galvez1978:One rookie question, why have negative numbers some parts of the pinball? The supply drop target have -20, but all the playfield have de same kind of numbers.
I don't see any target switches having a -20. Are you talking about 9-SW-20? This is the address Node board 9 Switch 20
-20 is just the part number on the sticker sheet, from what I hear. Holdover from the B/W days of numbering anything.
Quoted from Manny65:I don't see any target switches having a -20. Are you talking about 9-SW-20? This is the address Node board 9 Switch 20
I’m guessing they’re talking about the small numbers that are printed on the plastics. I have no answer as to why they’re there-I have a 17 year old Ripley’s, and they’re on those plastics also. I personally think it looks cheap and unprofessional.
Quoted from Hop721:I’m guessing they’re talking about the small numbers that are printed on the plastics. I have no answer as to why they’re there-I have a 17 year old Ripley’s, and they’re on those plastics also. I personally think it looks cheap and unprofessional.
It's so ops know can more easily order broken parts. You're entitled to your opinion but there is a reason
Quoted from Hop721:I’m guessing they’re talking about the small numbers that are printed on the plastics. I have no answer as to why they’re there-I have a 17 year old Ripley’s, and they’re on those plastics also. I personally think it looks cheap and unprofessional.
Ummmm. Unprofessional?? Those are called part numbers. So you can order the correct replacement if required.
Otherwise you’d have to buy a whole set or try to explain “I need that plastic on the right, near the bumpers, kinda small, has that thing near it...”.
Edit: @pinbaltilt beat me to it
Quoted from Hop721:I’m guessing they’re talking about the small numbers that are printed on the plastics. I have no answer as to why they’re there-I have a 17 year old Ripley’s, and they’re on those plastics also. I personally think it looks cheap and unprofessional.
Guys, come on.. These are the re-order numbers and literally appear on every single machine since the 80's. Every machine that's ever built has a prefix, and then every plastic, metal, piece, or sticker within that machine has a suffix so that when you're trying to find a part years later you can intelligently (or not apparently) tell someone what you're looking for.
As an example, Jurassic Parks prefix for any plastics is: 830-1038-XX and the XX is the number you are currently asking about. So if you want to replace the t-Rex plastic over the left slingshot, you'd look at that number (which is -86) and know to ask someone to order part: 830-1038-86 if it ever breaks.
Every sticker on the machine is the same way.
Quoted from ScottyC:just too bad you have to order an entire set so part numbers are pointless
Since when? Most parts vendors (pinball life, marco, etc) sell both full sets and individual plastics.
If you find a distributor to sell individual ones then sure it's handy. Every time I've tried to get a single plastic it's been all or nothing.
E.G. Find me a 830-1034-05 for JP Prem
Quoted from ScottyC:If you find a distributor to sell individual ones then sure it's handy. Every time I've tried to get a single plastic it's been all or nothing.
E.G. Find me a 830-1034-05 for JP Prem
I think it's handy in lots of scenarios, not just with distributors. If you file a ticket directly with Stern it comes in handy - they carry all of individual pieces for all machines under warranty or that are currently in production. Its handy if you're talking to other owners and trying to troubleshoot something (it's not just the aesthetic pieces of a machine that have this number system - literally every single piece of metal has one going back decades). It's also handy if you tear down an old machine and want to sell it for parts - these are the numbers you should list on eBay, etc.
Quoted from mcvetyty:Guys, come on.. These are the re-order numbers and literally appear on every single machine since the 80's. Every machine that's ever built has a prefix, and then every plastic, metal, piece, or sticker within that machine has a suffix so that when you're trying to find a part years later you can intelligently (or not apparently) tell someone what you're looking for.
As an example, Jurassic Parks prefix for any plastics is: 830-1038-XX and the XX is the number you are currently asking about. So if you want to replace the t-Rex plastic over the left slingshot, you'd look at that number (which is -86) and know to ask someone to order part: 830-1038-86 if it ever breaks.
Every sticker on the machine is the same way.
I stand by my statement, but would like to clarify that I think it is unprofessional that the part numbers are where you can see them. You can’t put that part number on the bottom? I’m sitting in my car typing this right now, and looking at every piece in here. I assume they all have a part number. I assume that part number is somewhere on that piece. I can’t see any of them. My point is that it’s unsightly. Particularly being that it’s on the art pieces.
Quoted from Hop721:I stand by my statement, but would like to clarify that I think it is unprofessional that the part numbers are where you can see them. You can’t put that part number on the bottom? I’m sitting in my car typing this right now, and looking at every piece in here. I assume they all have a part number. I assume that part number is somewhere on that piece. I can’t see any of them. My point is that it’s unsightly. Particularly being that it’s on the art pieces.
I don't think "unprofessional" is the right word. Every pinball manufacturer prints the part numbers on their plastics. By definition, the companies that produce them set the methodology and standards, thereby making it "professional". You may think it is tacky, but definitely not distracting. When you stare at a plastic and look for it is it visually pleasing - no. While you're playing a game have you ever been distracted by a part number on a plastic, decal, or playfield as you eyes are tracking the ball - I seriously doubt it.
Do I wish that artist wouldn't mark their art by printing their signature over the top of it - sure. Is it unprofessional - quite the contrary.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I don't think "unprofessional" is the right word. Every pinball manufacturer prints the part numbers on their plastics. By definition, the companies that produce them set the methodology and standards, thereby making it "professional". You may think it is tacky, but definitely not distracting. When you stare at a plastic and look for it is it visually pleasing - no. While you're playing a game have you ever been distracted by a part number on a plastic, decal, or playfield as you eyes are tracking the ball - I seriously doubt it.
Do I wish that artist wouldn't mark their art by printing their signature over the top of it - sure. Is it unprofessional - quite the contrary.
Point taken. I’ll go with tacky as HELL then lol
Quoted from Hop721:Point taken. I’ll go with tacky as HELL then lol
I think the main issue is that pins are thought of as products by those that manufacture them, but for many of us home buyers they are decor and works of art.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I think the main issue is that pins are thought of as products by those that manufacture them, but for many of us home buyers they are decor and works of art.
I agree. And it seems to me they could do just a few more things, that would cost very little money, to make their “product” a lot more enjoyable for the home buyer.
It arrived - set it up, installed shaker motor, topper, front volume control, 5.25 back speakers, and speaker lights. Looks awesome and managed to get two games before bed. Tomorrow I tackle installing the Pinstadium lights... incredible pinball machine...
Quoted from WarriorPin:Ugh, my JP Premium was supposed to arrive Friday and I would spend my weekend installing the many mods I have waiting. Damn stalled trained in Chicago.... now being delivered Monday.
Quoted from WarriorPin:It arrived - set it up, installed shaker motor, topper, front volume control, 5.25 back speakers, and speaker lights. Looks awesome and managed to get two games before bed. Tomorrow I tackle installing the Pinstadium lights... incredible pinball machine...
Congrats! Mine comes today!
Quoted from palmab03:What's the timing on DNA Combos? I've noticed I've had quite a few combos register where it seems like I had close to 10 seconds between the shots required.
Didn't you ask the same question 5 days ago on this thread? ectobar replied - here is his post https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/157#post-5947890
Since everyone seems to have issues with Stern coil stops, I decided to take a look at mine today. I was very surprised to see that mine are rubber. Has Stern switched to that now? I did notice that my flippers sounded a lot quieter than my BKSOR sounded, I'm wondering if that's why.
Quoted from Manny65:Didn't you ask the same question 5 days ago on this thread? ectobar replied - here is his post https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/157#post-5947890
Drunk posting! Thanks!
Quoted from Metroshica:Since everyone seems to have issues with Stern coil stops, I decided to take a look at mine today. I was very surprised to see that mine are rubber. Has Stern switched to that now? I did notice that my flippers sounded a lot quieter than my BKSOR sounded, I'm wondering if that's why.
Wrong end? The flipper stops are rubber.
Quoted from Metroshica:Since everyone seems to have issues with Stern coil stops, I decided to take a look at mine today. I was very surprised to see that mine are rubber. Has Stern switched to that now? I did notice that my flippers sounded a lot quieter than my BKSOR sounded, I'm wondering if that's why.
This is your coil stop 
The little round button in the center can become loose or even detached.
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:This is your coil stop The little round button in the center can become loose or even detached.
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I have a question about the coil stops... When the coil stop is just loose should I replace them or is it just indicative that they will probably fail soon? I have a couple on hand because I own six modern sterns and heard this is something that fails often. Does it hurt anything to leave them until they fail?
Quoted from GeekedOnPinball:I have a question about the coil stops... When the coil stop is just loose should I replace them or is it just indicative that they will probably fail soon? I have a couple on hand because I own six modern sterns and heard this is something that fails often. Does it hurt anything to leave them until they fail?
Doesn't hurt anything other than if it fails during an epic game you'll kick yourself in the butt.
Quoted from Metroshica:Ignore me, I'm an idiot. Thank you all.
cluelessnessdemotivator.jpgQuoted from ABE_FLIPS:yeah strange, my game says 8 (installed/factory default) and I double checked the Code, its on V1.03.0
My first update went wrong so i did a second long update with check and it said it worked.
I think I will update it again.
I tried two more updates and factory resets but it still says EB on 8 DNA combos as (installed/factory).
Anyone knows what could cause this problem?
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:I tried two more updates and factory resets but it still says EB on 8 DNA combos as (installed/factory).
Anyone knows what could cause this problem?
Have you checked whether the other 1.03 settings are there? Might be worth reaching out to Stern to see if they can advise
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