People of STERN... where is the co-op mode?
please...
Quoted from RGAires:Ive made a video on switch tests, you can clear see that sometimes the right flipper trigger the opto, more often the upper right flipper.. any ideia to despite the problem.
Regards
Just for future reference and maybe to help others, it was a problem on the opto board(cold solder) just revised the contacts and is working as it should.
Thanks
Quoted from RGAires:Just for future reference and maybe to help others, it was a problem on the opto board(cold solder) just revised the contacts and is working as it should.
Thanks
Nice to see you got this issue sorted and good to know - now you can get on with enjoying JP
Quoted from RGAires:Just for future reference and maybe to help others, it was a problem on the opto board(cold solder) just revised the contacts and is working as it should.
Thanks
Quoted from metallik:Lockbar button changes the smart missile option
Oh man, duh! Been playing way too much BM66 lately (minor villans select with flippers) Thanks for the gentle reminder!
Quoted from Vitty:Oh man, duh! Been playing way too much BM66 lately (minor villans select with flippers) Thanks for the gentle reminder!
I do wish flippers selected rewards, button to confirm, or fire. It's more intuitive that way.
Quoted from Manny65:Nice to see you got this issue sorted and good to know - now you can get on with enjoying JP
Next step is to check the tower shot... sometimes the shot is not fluid and seems to kickback the ball...
Quoted from RGAires:Next step is to check the tower shot... sometimes the shot is not fluid and seems to kickback the ball...
Yup, nearly every tower ramp flap has a rounded-head screw that was installed at the factory which is directly in the path of the ball edge. An easy replacement with a flathead screw is all that it takes. (You will need a really long PH1 philips head screwdriver to get it out however... $8 on AMZ)
Quoted from Markharris2000:Yup, nearly every tower ramp flap has a rounded-head screw that was installed at the factory which is directly in the path of the ball edge. An easy replacement with a flathead screw is all that it takes. (You will need a really long PH1 philips head screwdriver to get it out however... $8 on AMZ)
Any reference picture of that area or screw?
I have that screw installed on mine but my shot is buttery smooth and I can't imagine how the ball can hit that screw because the side of the ball would hit the ramp first. Maybe some are installed further out towards the center of the ramp flap??
Quoted from yzfguy:I have that screw installed on mine but my shot is buttery smooth and I can't imagine how the ball can hit that screw because the side of the ball would hit the ramp first. Maybe some are installed further out towards the center of the ramp flap??
Take a ball with your hand and run it over that spot and see if it hits that screw. On my game it does for the lower screw but doesn't on the upper one.
Quoted from MikeS:Take a ball with your hand and run it over that spot and see if it hits that screw. On my game it does for the lower screw but doesn't on the upper one.
[quoted image]
This is how I tested my game as well.
I could feel the ball hitting the screw head.
Tried a flat head screw but the hole is not counter sunk and the ball still hit it.
Pulled the damn thing out and life is a dream.
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:I do wish flippers selected rewards, button to confirm, or fire. It's more intuitive that way.
I think the button is used instead of flippers to make your choice because you can have a smart missile during multiball. If I have a ball cradled on my right flipper and the smart missile is activated I will use that ball to knock the Jeep out of the way before the uppost releases the ball, giving me a much wider shot path.
Quoted from Slapfighter:Put it out and mylar in and be happy......aaaaaand it looks better too
[quoted image]
I think this will be my Friday night pinball project. Then play about 20 games to test it out
Without the thin metal flap, tower shots that roll back or fall after not quite making it around will eventually damage the exposed edge of the playfield where the U-ramp mounts. The mount point is recessed and the flap protects the edges of that recess.
Quoted from ScottyC:Mine was hitting as well.. little grinding got it right back in biz. never thought about just removing and then mylar.. intersting.
[quoted image]
Quoted from metallik:Without the thin metal flap, tower shots that roll back or fall after not quite making it around will eventually damage the exposed edge of the playfield where the U-ramp mounts. The mount point is recessed and the flap protects the edges of that recess.
Good point, then I shall remove the screw, leave the metal flap, and put mylar down
Quoted from Galvez1978:[quoted image]
The ramps aren't countersunk so that type of screw still won't lie perfectly flat. They are better than the original screws but still make slight contact with the ball.
Man.. just had a great game. Visitor center. Completed raptors in the kitchen. Started secure control room but not completed successfully. Was 1 shot away from starting my last t-rex mode (close to museum mayhem!). I wanted to do escape nublar for real instead of practice!
So close
2.1b
Quoted from MikeS:The ramps aren't countersunk so that type of screw still won't lie perfectly flat. They are better than the original screws but still make slight contact with the ball.
You have all the reason, this must will be better.
celo-tornillo-para-aluminio-extraplana-ce-4-2x22-lacado-blanco-9w4222ce-0501040648-d467_228 (resized).jpgQuoted from Galvez1978:You have all the reason, this must will be better.[quoted image]
That is exactly what is needed.
Quoted from Green-Machine:That is exactly what is needed.
Literally 10 seconds with a Dremel and the problem is solved.
Quoted from Galvez1978:You have all the reason, this must will be better.[quoted image]
What size screw is this? Basically I just want to hit the easy button and have someone to tell me exactly what to buy.
Quoted from GeekedOnPinball:Joining the JP club today with a new premium. Super excited!
Does anyone have the Tilt Graphics set installed on their machine? I was hoping to see it installed?
[quoted image]
A friend of mine has this package on his. Its a pretty subjective thing, but I feel it's a bit too busy for my taste.
Quoted from GeekedOnPinball:Joining the JP club today with a new premium. Super excited!
Does anyone have the Tilt Graphics set installed on their machine? I was hoping to see it installed?
[quoted image]
Congrats on the purchase! My 2 cents worth is that all that together is a bit too busy. The games look pretty good right from Stern, and theres a few good mods out there like the realistic pteradon that add to the game.
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:Good point, then I shall remove the screw, leave the metal flap, and put mylar down
Removed the screw from mine, and also noticed the standup target to the right was leaning into the tower shot, so moved and tightened that. Still can't hit the tower shot for sh*t, but at least I know now that it is my lack of skill and not a setup issue.
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:Congrats on the purchase! My 2 cents worth is that all that together is a bit too busy. The games look pretty good right from Stern, and theres a few good mods out there like the realistic pteradon that add to the game.
Yeah I was already thinking I would not be installing the speaker stickers and the lockdown bar sticker and maybe the coin box stickers. Was just curious what the yellow caution type stickers looked like installed.
What brand of Dino models are people installing like the Pteradon? I see palms too is that a particular brand? Any links would be appreciated.
Quoted from paul_8788:Removed the screw from mine, and also noticed the standup target to the right was leaning into the tower shot, so moved and tightened that. Still can't hit the tower shot for sh*t, but at least I know now that it is my lack of skill and not a setup issue.
It's strange, or maybe not, but I can hit the tower shot on mine fairly regular. Unlike my Iron Maiden Premium where I always struggle to get just even 1 left loop. I've thought about changing the flipper angle a small amount to see if that helps.
Rob
Hey fellow owners, I need some guidance after doing some maintenence on my JP Pro today.
I did the jeep fix with silicone, cleaned flipper rubbers, wiped down playfield, swapped Raptor tower screw (was hitting my balls), and installed 6 brand new balls.
Here is the problem, when bringing the playfield down, I mis judged the legs and it slipped and came down hard on some of the wiring and where CN1 and CN2 connections on the circuit board are (the board that sits under the paddock lights for each Dino) .
So far here is what I noticed:
1. Secure Control Room light and the 2x Playfield lights won't come on.
2. The game play seems REALLY fast now.
I'm pretty sure I need a new circuit board. Although some of the wires were pinched and had some disconnecting issues, I was able to verify they can still work by hooking them up to other LED connections on the board and the lights came on.
But I checked with my voltmeter and the pins for CN1 and CN2 which these LEDs connect to are not outputting any voltage for those two LEDs. When the playfield came down, the connectors on these are what the thin metal bar smashed into. Escape Nublar LED still works from the same CN as the Secure Control room though. So yeah, I contacted Stern to see how to order a new board for that. Am I going in the right direction? The board looked OK, but might be ever so slightly bent that it cut the connections there I worry. Everything else works it appears.
As for how fast the game plays now, is that normal after I stalling new balls? These are Zen balls from Mezelmods. The ball is really zipping around and bouncing off the flippers a lot. I was pretty good about ball control before, but having a hard time even post passing now.
Did I somehow possibly damage the flippers so they are now overpowered? I had them on 235 and the game at 7 degrees before as reccomended. I turned down the flippers to 215 each and it feels a bit more like it did before. But then again I have not installed new balls or wiped down the playfield before. This is my first pin and I'm not sure if this is expected. Had the game for 5.5 Months and it has over 1200 games on it.
Quoted from WedgeTheJedi:Hey fellow owners, I need some guidance after doing some maintenence on my JP Pro today.
I did the jeep fix with silicone, cleaned flipper rubbers, wiped down playfield, swapped Raptor tower screw (was hitting my balls), and installed 6 brand new balls.
Here is the problem, when bringing the playfield down, I mis judged the legs and it slipped and came down hard on some of the wiring and where CN1 and CN2 connections on the circuit board are (the board that sits under the paddock lights for each Dino) .
So far here is what I noticed:
1. Secure Control Room light and the 2x Playfield lights won't come on.
2. The game play seems REALLY fast now.
I'm pretty sure I need a new circuit board. Although some of the wires were pinched and had some disconnecting issues, I was able to verify they can still work by hooking them up to other LED connections on the board and the lights came on.
But I checked with my voltmeter and the pins for CN1 and CN2 which these LEDs connect to are not outputting any voltage for those two LEDs. When the playfield came down, the connectors on these are what the thin metal bar smashed into. Escape Nublar LED still works from the same CN as the Secure Control room though. So yeah, I contacted Stern to see how to order a new board for that. Am I going in the right direction? The board looked OK, but might be ever so slightly bent that it cut the connections there I worry. Everything else works it appears.
As for how fast the game plays now, is that normal after I stalling new balls? These are Zen balls from Mezelmods. The ball is really zipping around and bouncing off the flippers a lot. I was pretty good about ball control before, but having a hard time even post passing now.
Did I somehow possibly damage the flippers so they are now overpowered? I had them on 235 and the game at 7 degrees before as reccomended. I turned down the flippers to 215 each and it feels a bit more like it did before. But then again I have not installed new balls or wiped down the playfield before. This is my first pin and I'm not sure if this is expected. Had the game for 5.5 Months and it has over 1200 games on it.
Cleaning your playfield will make it play faster. I had the same reaction when I cleaned my Metallica. It will start to settle back down the more you play it.
If you think it is the balls you could put your old ones back in to test.
Quoted from GeekedOnPinball:Yeah I was already thinking I would not be installing the speaker stickers and the lockdown bar sticker and maybe the coin box stickers. Was just curious what the yellow caution type stickers looked like installed.
What brand of Dino models are people installing like the Pteradon? I see palms too is that a particular brand? Any links would be appreciated.
The 2 best brands for realistic dinosaurs are Papo, and Schleich. Either brand can be purchased online and look amazing. I have the pteradon and the raptor. Not sure about the brand on the plam trees.
20190831_181152 (resized).jpg20190831_182326 (resized).jpgQuoted from WedgeTheJedi:Hey fellow owners, I need some guidance after doing some maintenence on my JP Pro today.
I did the jeep fix with silicone, cleaned flipper rubbers, wiped down playfield, swapped Raptor tower screw (was hitting my balls), and installed 6 brand new balls.
Here is the problem, when bringing the playfield down, I mis judged the legs and it slipped and came down hard on some of the wiring and where CN1 and CN2 connections on the circuit board are (the board that sits under the paddock lights for each Dino) .
So far here is what I noticed:
1. Secure Control Room light and the 2x Playfield lights won't come on.
2. The game play seems REALLY fast now.
I'm pretty sure I need a new circuit board. Although some of the wires were pinched and had some disconnecting issues, I was able to verify they can still work by hooking them up to other LED connections on the board and the lights came on.
But I checked with my voltmeter and the pins for CN1 and CN2 which these LEDs connect to are not outputting any voltage for those two LEDs. When the playfield came down, the connectors on these are what the thin metal bar smashed into. Escape Nublar LED still works from the same CN as the Secure Control room though. So yeah, I contacted Stern to see how to order a new board for that. Am I going in the right direction? The board looked OK, but might be ever so slightly bent that it cut the connections there I worry. Everything else works it appears.
As for how fast the game plays now, is that normal after I stalling new balls? These are Zen balls from Mezelmods. The ball is really zipping around and bouncing off the flippers a lot. I was pretty good about ball control before, but having a hard time even post passing now.
Did I somehow possibly damage the flippers so they are now overpowered? I had them on 235 and the game at 7 degrees before as reccomended. I turned down the flippers to 215 each and it feels a bit more like it did before. But then again I have not installed new balls or wiped down the playfield before. This is my first pin and I'm not sure if this is expected. Had the game for 5.5 Months and it has over 1200 games on it.
Cleaning and waxing the playfield will definitely make the game play crazy fast for a while especially if you had 1200 games on it prior to cleaning.
I wanted to see how i compete with the IFPA players from the PinClash tournament https://www.pinclashtourney.com/
Its really cool to see the actual times and players including the link to their actual best scoring game, give it a try!
I have had the same experience like other members, after some days of training i played a standard game and beat my GC by far from 1 billion to 2,1 billion points (1 death save). My escape nublar time is 3:17. The only downside of the PinClash tournament is that there are only some streamers playing it, so no real comparison- still tons of fun. Too bad i wasn't able to sign up for it, because i noticed it too late- anyone knows where i can get this information earlier next time?
Also learning how deep this game really is... my DP simply cant compete just because of that, but still a great game.
Edit: removed the tower flap, no real differece, just feels a littlebit nicer. added two layers of mylar to protect the edges of the wood. no critical area there because you always can but the flap back on.
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:I wanted to see how i compete with the IFPA players from the PinClash tournament https://www.pinclashtourney.com/
Its really cool to see the actual times and players including the link to their actual best scoring game, give it a try!
I have had the same experience like other members, after some days of training i played a standard game and beat my GC by far from 1 billion to 2,1 billion points (1 death save). My escape nublar time is 3:17. The only downside of the PinClash tournament is that there are only some streamers playing it, so no real comparison- still tons of fun. Too bad i wasn't able to sign up for it, because i noticed it too late- anyone knows where i can get this information earlier next time?
Also learning how deep this game really is... my DP simply cant compete just because of that, but still a great game.
I stumbled across it as I was watching somebody's stream. I looked into it and then signed up. That 3:17 is pretty good time.
Follow the main streamers and follow them. Karl, Deadflip etc...
Quoted from GeekedOnPinball:Yeah I was already thinking I would not be installing the speaker stickers and the lockdown bar sticker and maybe the coin box stickers. Was just curious what the yellow caution type stickers looked like installed.
What brand of Dino models are people installing like the Pteradon? I see palms too is that a particular brand? Any links would be appreciated.
I used generic palm trees from EBay that were for model train scenery. Here is my machine with the caution tape on the playfield frame and on the coin door. The dinosaurs were from Hobby Lobby and EBay.
1A8C3A4D-ED19-4393-A2E1-FD9AB35A7352 (resized).jpeg1DA0E67D-AC20-49C6-AFD6-B7D06A5900BF (resized).jpeg21A80C56-21B7-4869-9E05-A29DB2F9B876 (resized).jpegFCEF1E64-B431-4102-9500-EB3D59E07ED9 (resized).jpeg1.03 Breaks my Jurassic Park. From the moment i start a game things start triggering. I downgraded to 1.02 and works fine. Updated again to 1.03 and its broken. I'm also one of those who's TRex is busted and wont drop the ball most of the time even with my replacement. Here is a video.
Quoted from Matesamo:I used generic palm trees from EBay that were for model train scenery. Here is my machine with the caution tape on the playfield frame and on the coin door. The dinosaurs were from Hobby Lobby and EBay.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Thanks that helps, I like the yellow striping inside and the ramp decal a lot. Also ordered the same replacement signs you have and they look great in your game. Tilt makes some great graphics. Nice pimped out pro!
Quoted from pingod:Double check you updated the right version for your game. LE, pro, Premium.
Version is correct
Quoted from Matesamo:I used generic palm trees from EBay that were for model train scenery. Here is my machine with the caution tape on the playfield frame and on the coin door. The dinosaurs were from Hobby Lobby and EBay.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
lower flippers doesnt seems well aligned... until you did it on purpose (your taste) of course
Quoted from RipleYYY:lower flippers doesnt seems well aligned... until you did it on purpose (your taste) of course
This has been said many times before about the flippers, On these newer machines this is how it is designed. The flippers have a little droop to them to make certain shots. The dot on the playfield should be the middle tip of the flipper.
Fellow JP owners...
I just bought a JP prem that was manufactured in July 2020 so it has no paint near the posts. Is it still recommended to install the cliffy carbon fiber circles under all posts?
Any other big issues where I should install something for the game? I think I'm going to do mylar in the shooter lane unless the cliffy is better?
What about the raptor cage? Anything for here?
Does the outhole drain need one? Seems like it might wear bad there.
Quoted from GeekedOnPinball:Fellow JP owners...
I just bought a JP prem that was manufactured in July 2020 so it has no paint near the posts. Is it still recommended to install the cliffy carbon fiber circles under all posts?
Any other big issues where I should install something for the game? I think I'm going to do mylar in the shooter lane unless the cliffy is better?
What about the raptor cage? Anything for here?
Does the outhole drain need one? Seems like it might wear bad there.
I put an extra black ring on the truck Newton ball post it now has 5 rings instead of 4. This keeps tension on the assembly and will prevent balls from getting stuck under the truck.
I put a piece of mylar on the left outlane sidewall as that area takes a beating.
I put small carbon washers under all the rail guide posts
2 small washers under the left fork of the shooter lane for ball travel
Metal cliffy's in shooter lane
2 slightly larger washers under Pteranadon helix ramp entry posts, those two take a beating and it was more for preventative mx than anything
Changed all post rubber to tapered Titans
Changed all other rubber to Titan except flippers, after trying Every single rubber type out there, using black rubber from Marco, best bounce, control and wear YMMV.
Plastic protectors under plastics, from Mezel Mods
That's really all the protection I added
I play the hell out of my machines but keep then pristine, cleaning and waxed... After 5000 plays, it looks brand new
I'm still amazed when I see people selling them with only 200 or less plays.. Do you play pinball or look at pinball? I can do 50 games in a couple days
Clean, multiple coats of wax... Should be good to go now
Quoted from GeekedOnPinball:Fellow JP owners...
I just bought a JP prem that was manufactured in July 2020 so it has no paint near the posts. Is it still recommended to install the cliffy carbon fiber circles under all posts?
Any other big issues where I should install something for the game? I think I'm going to do mylar in the shooter lane unless the cliffy is better?
What about the raptor cage? Anything for here?
Does the outhole drain need one? Seems like it might wear bad there.
I have a June 2020 Premium. I don't think the cliffy circles are needed. Just make sure that the post below the upper flipper is in tight. I've had to tighten it up a couple times since getting my game. I would at least put mylar down in the shooter lane and outhole drain.-I ended up getting the Cliffys for these.
I'd also check for any areas on your playfield where metal guides (left of the shooter lane) and where the apron edges meet the playfield.-mine was starting to dig into the playfield. I ended up putting mylar down in these areas to prevent this from happening. Other than that though Stern does a good job of putting mylar in the key areas of the game.
Quoted from GeekedOnPinball:Fellow JP owners...
I just bought a JP prem that was manufactured in July 2020 so it has no paint near the posts. Is it still recommended to install the cliffy carbon fiber circles under all posts?
Any other big issues where I should install something for the game? I think I'm going to do mylar in the shooter lane unless the cliffy is better?
What about the raptor cage? Anything for here?
Does the outhole drain need one? Seems like it might wear bad there.
Check the Tower Ramp flap and see if the flap hold down screw on the left side collides with the ball. On most machines, it does and makes the shots much harder to get. The most straight forward fix is to remove the screw and then grind it down a bit, or replace it with a flatter head screw.
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