Brunswick, GA
Not updating this time . updated my Stranger Things and it erased the custom sound code I had . Keep your DJ mix update and I will keep my movie clips !
(Topic ID: 248582)
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Jurassic Park (30th Anniversary LE)
Stern, 2023-
Jurassic Park (Limited Edition)
Stern, 2019
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Jurassic Park (Premium)
Stern, 2019
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Jurassic Park (Pro)
Stern, 2019
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Quoted from Pinballer31520:Not updating this time . updated my Stranger Things and it erased the custom sound code I had . Keep your DJ mic and I will keep my movie clips !
Yes, anytime you do an update you'll lose any custom sounds you have gotten through Pinball Browser and will need to reload the PB macro to inject the sounds back in - that's assuming Stern didn't block PB from working...
I appreciate all of the code updates and efforts from Stern on JP, but was there some big demand for being able to listen to the background game music?? What the heck? Seems like a total waste of time and resources.
Looks like they added some TRex motor syncing and other bug fixes with control mode and other timings as well as give an extra ball at 6 instead of 8 DNA combos... May not me worth it to some, but those having Trex rejects may find something useful from the fixes
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:I appreciate all of the code updates and efforts from Stern on JP, but was there some big demand for being able to listen to the background game music?? What the heck? Seems like a total waste of time and resources.
They had announced it was coming to all their future code updates for all games. This started with the band based machines. I agree that for regular games it seems weird.
Has anyone added the Weird Al Jurassic Park song via Pinbrowser yet? I feel like this is going to be required on my machine. Actually, I'd love to see some of the claymation music video used in there as well, but I know that isn't going to happen.
Quoted from JodyG:Has anyone added the Weird Al Jurassic Park song via Pinbrowser yet? I feel like this is going to be required on my machine. Actually, I'd love to see some of the claymation music video used in there as well, but I know that isn't going to happen.
I can't stand weird al... I was so happy when he faded away! 
My guess is the DJ mode is now part of the system firmware, so it isn’t like they spent a bunch of extra time adding it. Just a freebie from updating the game to the latest system firmware.
Quoted from yzfguy:I can't stand weird al... I was so happy when he faded away!
I was the proud owner of every cassette of his I could find when I was growing up.
Quoted from jawjaw:Bang on the playfield and see if that triggers opto. Might just be a bad opto where vibrations set it off. Had that problem on my ST pro.
I belive this answer to your question, just simply putting my finger under the board, triggers the T-REX hit....
Quoted from JodyG:I was the proud owner of every cassette of his I could find when I was growing up.
Noooooo! I don't know what it is about him, but he just grated on me and I couldn't change the station fast enough 
Quoted from yzfguy:I can't stand weird al... I was so happy when he faded away!
You should meet him in person. He never stops being a goof!
Quoted from Green-Machine:You should meet him in person. He never stops being a goof!
I have, and he's a good all around dude. And for having his name include "Weird" in it, he's actually a decent human.
Was kind of hoping this would include co-op mode. Not sure how much I'd use it, but would be fun to play with the kids!
Quoted from BlackKnight:Was kind of hoping this would include co-op mode. Not sure how much I'd use it, but would be fun to play with the kids!
There are rumors of it coming. I believe Keith hinted at it a while back.
Quoted from RGAires:I belive this answer to your question, just simply putting my finger under the board, triggers the T-REX hit....
Unplug that opto board, seems broken. See if anything else hits or just works fine, if so you found the issue.
Paris
Quoted from JodyG:I have, and he's a good all around dude. And for having his name include "Weird" in it, he's actually a decent human.
Then you know what I’m talking about!
Quoted from IBARAKURO:Add customization [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
The tree's are pretty cool. Where'd you get them?
Bremen
Find here some pics of my modded jp pro.
I did the art blades and fluorescent plastic protectors myself.
The protectors was milled with with my home cnc machine. The edges was polished with cnc and finally flame polished. This way the lights comes more intense at the edges compared to the laser cut ones. For the heli, raptor and top transparent plexi I used blue fluorescent acrylic glas.
The art blades fits nicely in the theme.
Hope you enjoyed the pics for a minute
20201015_213738 (resized).jpg20201024_154434 (resized).jpg20201029_173028 (resized).jpg20201029_173045 (resized).jpg20201029_173135 (resized).jpg20201029_173138(0) (resized).jpg20201029_173143 (resized).jpgQuoted from Manny65:Every game is different, however you should be able to hit the tower ramp with either a slow or fast feed to the upper flipper. It might be just a slight adjustment on the pitch of the PF that will significantly improve being able to hit this ramp - what pitch is you machine setup at? and is it level side-to-side?
Quoted from jawjaw:Are you saying the flipper feels weak or hard to time the shot? Should be no problem making that shot if aimed well. I turned down the power of the upper flipper and still no problem making it. One thing to check is if flipper is binding at all. Move it by hand and check for any resistance.
Standard pitch right in the middle of the leveler, and the flipper doesn't feel weak (Actually with it being set on max, it feels a bit too strong to me as it really whips around the loop shot when hit that I'd like to slow it down a bit)
Quoted from Hop721:Some here have had a problem with the ball hitting the left (lower) mounting screw on the metal flap at the ramp entrance. I’d start by looking there. Roll a ball around and see if it hits that screw. Maybe try to get a slow-mo video.
There have been a few solutions that I’ve read-filing down the screw, lower profile screw etc. A search will help you find those. I, personally, removed the metal flap all together and put a piece of Mylar at that transition point. It has improved my ramp shot success by quite a bit.
Looked at it this morning and yeah, that screw is just in a terrible place. I'm imagining this makes the ball pop up and is what's killing the momentum. Will take a look into how to fix it. Thanks!
Quoted from palmab03:Standard pitch right in the middle of the leveler, and the flipper doesn't feel weak (Actually with it being set on max, it feels a bit too strong to me as it really whips around the loop shot when hit that I'd like to slow it down a bit)
There is no such thing as "standard pitch" when using the bubble. It can be WAY off. If I center the bubble on mine I have under 6 degrees of pitch. It's pretty useless.
The designer has mentioned on Pinside that the game is designed to be played at 7 degrees pitch. You need an inclinometer to check that. While it may seem like that would speed up the play too much it actually helps a lot with the side shots and makes play easier.
Quoted from IBARAKURO:Add customization [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Where did you get the dino?
Madrid
Guys, is it cheating to remove the screw so the tower shot is consistent? I’m being told doing stuff like that is cheating. I thought that was pinball tweaking 101. 15+ years in this hobby and I’m second guessing myself.
Melbourne
Quoted from Eskaybee:Guys, is it cheating to remove the screw so the tower shot is consistent? I’m being told doing stuff like that is cheating. I thought that was pinball tweaking 101. 15+ years in this hobby and I’m second guessing myself.
Are you talking about the screw holding the ramp flap down onto the PF? If the ball is clipping the head of the scew, then this is not how the game was designed, so filing the head or replacing/removing the screw is simply fixing your game - definitely not cheating
Quoted from Eskaybee:Guys, is it cheating to remove the screw so the tower shot is consistent? I’m being told doing stuff like that is cheating. I thought that was pinball tweaking 101. 15+ years in this hobby and I’m second guessing myself.
Not cheating. I removed the flap entirely and never looked back.
Quoted from Eskaybee:Guys, is it cheating to remove the screw so the tower shot is consistent? I’m being told doing stuff like that is cheating. I thought that was pinball tweaking 101. 15+ years in this hobby and I’m second guessing myself.
Not cheating, it's just fixing an engineering design mistake. They spec'd the wrong screw type. Easy to fix: But you need an 8-inch PH1 screwdriver to do easily. You can easily remove the tower triangle directly above it, and then carefully remove that round-head flap screw, replacing it with a flat head version (I think I used a flat head M3-10mm screw laying around, but any similiar screw will work). Then just put the tower plastic back on and the screw won't touch the ball going up the flap/ramp.
Quoted from mcvetyty:Obviously you're playing amazingly even despite this, but I don't believe that's where the top flipper should be at all... That's gotta be jacking up your game a bit.
That upper flipper is petty close to being aligned correctly - the front of the flipper rubber should line up with the PF dot. If anything the flipper may be slightly back too far, which I think would make it harder to hit the upper loop shot and it also narrows the S shot.
Quoted from Manny65:the front of the flipper rubber should line up with the PF dot.
Um, do you have a source for that, because I've never heard that before. The two placements I've heard are completely centered with the plastic flipper, or lined up with the top of the plastic flipper, but never the top of the rubber.
I've also seen about a hundred different videos of people playing JP2's, including Keith and I've never seen a flipper that far below.
Don't get me wrong, if you like it there and it makes it easier for you to connect with shots, then by all means you do you.. But, if you're prepping for some tournament that's on location, then I can pretty much promise you that you're doing yourself a disservice because the machine you play on next will look nothing like that.
Quoted from mcvetyty:Um, do you have a source for that, because I've never heard that before. The two placements I've heard are completely centered with the plastic flipper, or lined up with the top of the plastic flipper, but never the top of the rubber.
I've also seen about a hundred different videos of people playing JP2's, including Keith and I've never seen a flipper that far below.
Don't get me wrong, if you like it there and it makes it easier for you to connect with shots, then by all means you do you.. But, if you're prepping for some tournament that's on location, then I can pretty much promise you that you're doing yourself a disservice because the machine you play on next will look nothing like that.
Keith himself stated that the lower flippers align normally, centered on the dot. However, the upper flipper front face aligns with the dot. That causes the ball to kiss the post if not flipped, sending it to the left flipper. EDIT, not sure if the front face means the plastic or the rubber, but the ball should definitely hit the post if not flipped.
Quoted from mcvetyty:Um, do you have a source for that, because I've never heard that before. The two placements I've heard are completely centered with the plastic flipper, or lined up with the top of the plastic flipper, but never the top of the rubber.
I've also seen about a hundred different videos of people playing JP2's, including Keith and I've never seen a flipper that far below.
Don't get me wrong, if you like it there and it makes it easier for you to connect with shots, then by all means you do you.. But, if you're prepping for some tournament that's on location, then I can pretty much promise you that you're doing yourself a disservice because the machine you play on next will look nothing like that.
Please not again. I know you think that's rude, but it's discussed on probably every page of this thread
I had two firsts today. Kind of humorous so I thought I'd share. The first was this stuck ball, actually happened during single ball play. See if you can find it
The second was my raptor pit cliffy ejecting itself from the game after 100 games of working just fine
PXL_20201030_000445819 (resized).jpgQuoted from mcvetyty:Not cheating. I removed the flap entirely and never looked back.
Just removed the entrance flap to the tower shot in my game today.
Holy hell, what a difference. The tower shot is now smooth as butter every time.
Should have done this from day 1.
It's like we have been playing with a huge handicap forever and now the shackles are off.
Quoted from PinballTilt:Please not again. I know you think that's rude, but it's discussed on probably every page of this thread
Chill. I know you probably think that’s rude, but you aren’t reading posts before replying. I’m very familiar with the posts your referring to, but this is different. I'm asking for a source that the dot should be lined up with the top of the rubber as IBARAKURO is stating. If that exists in this thread, then forgive me, but from my knowledge all other alignment posts match this one:
Where it calls out that Keith was referring to the top of the plastic bat and not the top of the rubber. The alignment shown in the image above is wrong and I think that should be clarified so that an new owner who comes to this thread doesn't set their machine up based on it.
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:Keith himself stated that the lower flippers align normally, centered on the dot. However, the upper flipper front face aligns with the dot. That causes the ball to kiss the post if not flipped, sending it to the left flipper. EDIT, not sure if the front face means the plastic or the rubber, but the ball should definitely hit the post if not flipped.
Yep I'd hadn't taken too much notice as to whether it was the front of the bat or the rubber, rather had simply left mine where it was. Seems mine is aligned with the front of the rubber but checking Keith's post https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/96#post-5516155 he does state the bat ... now we could argue whether he was talking about the bat as a whole or explicitly the plastic bat itself 
LOL While I can consistently hit both the upper loop and the tower shot, I need to do some other dialling in, so might try changing the upper flipper at the same time and see if it's any better.
Quoted from Manny65:Yep I'd hadn't taken too much notice as to whether it was the front of the bat or the rubber, rather had simply left mine where it was. Seems mine is aligned with the front of the rubber but checking Keith's post https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/96#post-5516155 he does state the bat ... now we could argue whether he was talking about the bat as a whole or explicitly the plastic bat itself LOL While I can consistently hit both the upper loop and the tower shot, I need to do some other dialling in, so might try changing the upper flipper at the same time and see if it's any better.
Speaking of dialing in, I'm about convinced to remove the tower ramp metal flap and lay down some mylar, others here keep saying its a night and day difference. I don't think I have an issue hitting the tower, but is it really that much better???? 
Regina, SK
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:Speaking of dialing in, I'm about convinced to remove the tower ramp metal flap and lay down some mylar, others here keep saying its a night and day difference. I don't think I have an issue hitting the tower, but is it really that much better????
I just removed the one screw and put a piece of mylar down to keep it down. I don't know why removing the flap is needed?
Rob
Quoted from Rob_G:I just removed the one screw and put a piece of mylar down to keep it down. I don't know why removing the flap is needed?
Rob
Either way will work.
But just easier to remove the flap for me and be done with it.
No matter which option is chosen, just do it. The game plays so much better without the rattle.
Recently my smart missile is only giving me complete chaos as the only option and neither flipper changes it. I swapped my premium for an LE recently and have been seeing it on this machine but don’t recall ever having it as the only option prior. Is this normal?
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:Speaking of dialing in, I'm about convinced to remove the tower ramp metal flap and lay down some mylar, others here keep saying its a night and day difference. I don't think I have an issue hitting the tower, but is it really that much better????
A fiber washer under the rail just north of the Super Supply Insert is what did it for me...That and 7.0 degrees and the right upper flipper bat front plastic edge on the align hole and I can hit ramp figure 8's all night long. I actually got 5 ramp tower to 5 Pteranadon sequentially once.
Quoted from Vitty:Recently my smart missile is only giving me complete chaos as the only option and neither flipper changes it. I swapped my premium for an LE recently and have been seeing it on this machine but don’t recall ever having it as the only option prior. Is this normal?
Lockbar button changes the smart missile option
Quoted from palmab03:Are you generally not supposed to be able to hit the tower shot unless you have some speed coming around? I'm a bit annoyed that I can't hit the tower shot with the ball coming slowly out of the pops, but I don't know if it's a feature or a bug. I can occasionally get it up there but it's like a 5-10% shot. Most often even a clean nice shot just doesn't have the momentum to make it up there, and my flipper settings for that flipper are on default (Max).
You should be able to hit it Without a big run-up, check to see if a screw head is sticking up and disrupting the ramp. I had to dremil mine down a bit.
E4EE08E0-5326-4B6E-9F87-5B6EE7F6CBBD (resized).jpegQuoted from palmab03:Are you generally not supposed to be able to hit the tower shot unless you have some speed coming around? I'm a bit annoyed that I can't hit the tower shot with the ball coming slowly out of the pops, but I don't know if it's a feature or a bug. I can occasionally get it up there but it's like a 5-10% shot. Most often even a clean nice shot just doesn't have the momentum to make it up there, and my flipper settings for that flipper are on default (Max).
You should be able to hit it just fine, check and see if there is a screw head sticking up at the bottom of the ramp, I had to use a Dremel tool to flatten mine some. It was disrupting the shot
Yesterday i had my first billion game. 1.2bil.
I went to secure control room and failed closely. Reached visitor center and completed it. And when museum mayhem was ready and the ball cradled in the right flipper i was to nervous hit the post and drained. 
But now i know that escape nublar is reachable with my skill I'm even more motivated to get to it. I gotta take care of the S ramp issues and it should be much easier. Every botched shot is sent into the slings because of slightly thicker/bouncier titan rubbers. Gives it a LOT more sideway action.
Got this game for 3 months now and still play it almost daily. 
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