(Topic ID: 248582)

Jurassic Park (Stern 2019 & 30th) Owners Club. Welcome! To Jurassic park.....

By CoolCatPinball

4 years ago


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17 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 21,317 posts in this topic. You are on page 151 of 427.
#7501 3 years ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

Which ones are you looking at? I have a set of the Stern ones on order with my game....but can cancel....

For my premium, I'm looking at these that match the blue theme of the lower PF and back panel:

https://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/jurassic-park-stern-pro-pinball-sideblades/

#7502 3 years ago

Exactly why I just bought a new one. It's the same price as used and they deliver it brand new un-played directly to my house...

#7503 3 years ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

That looks like a screw that goes under the jaw, there are 3 or 4 under there I believe,. I used blue loctite on all of mine... It's tricky to get under there, a small angled mirror and a magnetized small screwdriver and many attempts is what it took to get those back in

wow thanks, that was crazy...

#7504 3 years ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

While I wait for my Prem.... side blades? Sterns....or one of the other options?

I like Stern.

#7505 3 years ago
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:

During gameplay a screw rolled down coming from the Trex direction (Premium) . I can't find where it came from, black screws are rare so I guess it's not that hard to find. Anyone can help?
[quoted image]

The same happened to me, and the screw was of the T-Rex Tower, can yours be of the same place?

IMG_3182 (resized).jpegIMG_3182 (resized).jpeg
#7506 3 years ago
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

I am currently struggling with this same conundrum as well. I really think the best choice for me is to stick with the cartoony look of the PF and rear panel artwork and pay to ship the ones from RR over here. I don't think the photo real ones really jive with the art theme and for me blades should compliment the art if at all possible.

I got these on eBay. Saved lots of money, and I like how that blue matches really well.
for under $20 you can make your own side art.
Not the best photo, but you get the idea
ebay.com link: 3D dinosaur Jurassic Removable Wall Stickers Decal Kids bed room Home Decor USA

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#7507 3 years ago
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

For my premium, I'm looking at these that match the blue theme of the lower PF and back panel:
https://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/jurassic-park-stern-pro-pinball-sideblades/

Nice...the "sunset" ones are cool too... I didn't look....how much is shipping?

#7508 3 years ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

Nice...the "sunset" ones are cool too... I didn't look....how much is shipping?

Like $30ish

#7509 3 years ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

While I wait for my Prem.... side blades? Sterns....or one of the other options?

I went with the Sterns, and like the way they look in the machine.

#7510 3 years ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

I went with the Sterns, and like the way they look in the machine.

Do you have a pic? please....

#7511 3 years ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

Do you have a pic? please....

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#7512 3 years ago

question:
once we have validated MAP, and launch PADDOCK.
After. how do we relaunch the MAP?

#7513 3 years ago
Quoted from IBARAKURO:

question:
once we have validated MAP, and launch PADDOCK.
After. how do we relaunch the MAP?

After you’ve exited a paddock, white-colored shots should automatically be relit around the playfield for you to shoot to complete MAP (it will take more than the initial 1 shot that the first qualification required), which will qualify your next paddock.

21
#7514 3 years ago

After 6 months of ownership I have finally joined the billionaire’s club! I typically average around 200MM a game, so this was quite the accomplishment. Only my 4th time ever reaching the visitor’s center. Really enjoying the rules and flow of this game. As my first home pin, JP has really helped me learn the basics. Can’t wait for my scores to start consistently being higher. God I love pinball!

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#7515 3 years ago
Quoted from jacksparrow0112:

After 6 months of ownership I have finally joined the billionaire’s club! I typically average around 200MM a game, so this was quite the accomplishment. Only my 4th time ever reaching the visitor’s center. Really enjoying the rules and flow of this game. As my first home pin, JP has really helped me learn the basics. Can’t wait for my scores to start consistently being higher. God I love pinball!
[quoted image]

Awesome job! That's about 90M higher than my personal best!

#7516 3 years ago

Which pinstadiums look the best reg or Omegas

#7517 3 years ago
Quoted from Sluggo39:

Which pinstadiums look the best reg or Omegas

I bought Neo and just installed them. I’m digging them now. Wasn’t at first. After hooking up the flasher to the shaker, I’m liking it. I’ve never even thought about Pinstadiums before but the GI lighting is just too dark and I absolutely hate spotlights everywhere.

#7518 3 years ago
Quoted from Sluggo39:

Which pinstadiums look the best reg or Omegas

If all you plan on using is the white color, get the neos. They still have the UV flash if I'm not mistaken. I have 3 sets of the regular pinstadiums and never once have I ever changed colors. I just use them to illuminate the playfield. When I purchased them, the neos weren't a thing.

#7519 3 years ago

Spinner help needed; Jurassic Park Pro. I just got this game and it seems the center spinner is not registering any hits. When I manually press the spinner switch it will record so I know it's working. During gameplay when the ball makes contact with the spinner, no hits are recorded. Is there a way to adjust this?

#7520 3 years ago
Quoted from newpinbin:

Spinner help needed; Jurassic Park Pro. I just got this game and it seems the center spinner is not registering any hits. When I manually press the spinner switch it will record so I know it's working. During gameplay when the ball makes contact with the spinner, no hits are recorded. Is there a way to adjust this?

Sounds like you need to adjust the switch. Is the switch arm resting below the spinner wire?

#7521 3 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Sounds like you need to adjust the switch. Is the switch arm resting below the spinner wire?

Yes, it is. Looks similar to my other machines actually.

#7522 3 years ago
Quoted from newpinbin:

Yes, it is. Looks similar to my other machines actually.

Sounds like the spinner arm may not be depressing the switch enough to close the contacts inside the switch. In total silence, slowly turn the spinner and listen to see if the switch makes a clicking noise. If not, the switch isnt engaging, and you can simply adjust the switch arm a bit higher by bending the arm or loosening and moving the switch slightly.

#7523 3 years ago
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:

Sounds like the spinner arm may not be depressing the switch enough to close the contacts inside the switch. In total silence, slowly turn the spinner and listen to see if the switch makes a clicking noise. If not, the switch isnt engaging, and you can simply adjust the switch arm a bit higher by bending the arm or loosening and moving the switch slightly.

The spinner is not making contact with the switch at all/no noise.

#7524 3 years ago

After looking at it again... The spinner is making contact with the switch you are referring to. But the switch is causing the contact to be engaged.

#7525 3 years ago

After looking at it again... The spinner is making contact with the switch you are referring to. But the switch is NOT causing the contact to be engaged.

#7526 3 years ago
Quoted from newpinbin:

After looking at it again... The spinner is making contact with the switch you are referring to. But the switch is NOT causing the contact to be engaged.

Then yes, just carefully bend the switch arm up a bit, or loosen the 2 screws holding the switch in place and see if you can raise it a hair. I had to adjust mine also.

#7527 3 years ago
Quoted from newpinbin:

After looking at it again... The spinner is making contact with the switch you are referring to. But the switch is NOT causing the contact to be engaged.

Its a pretty mechanical adjustment, so fairly easy to do. There are two different ways to do so. The easiest way is to loosen the two tiny mounting screws on the switch body a bit, and then rotate the body towards the rotating wire, and then tighten the mounting screws, firmly, but not over-tight to damage anything. The body won't move all that much, but if you are lucky, that is all that is required. The second suggestion is to bend the metal arm on the switch using an electrician's plier, the small kind you can get at Harbor Frieght for $2. The arm is delicate and can be damaged if not careful. A small adjustment is all that is needed. Just bend the metal arm slightly so it is no longer completely flat. Again, this is a bit more delicate to do.

#7528 3 years ago
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:

Then yes, just carefully bend the switch arm up a bit, or loosen the 2 screws holding the switch in place and see if you can raise it a hair. I had to adjust mine also.

Quoted from Markharris2000:

Its a pretty mechanical adjustment, so fairly easy to do. There are two different ways to do so. The easiest way is to loosen the two tiny mounting screws on the switch body a bit, and then rotate the body towards the rotating wire, and then tighten the mounting screws, firmly, but not over-tight to damage anything. The body won't move all that much, but if you are lucky, that is all that is required. The second suggestion is to bend the metal arm on the switch using an electrician's plier, the small kind you can get at Harbor Frieght for $2. The arm is delicate and can be damaged if not careful. A small adjustment is all that is needed. Just bend the metal arm slightly so it is no longer completely flat. Again, this is a bit more delicate to do.

Going to try removing the screws as I don't want to risk bending/breaking it. Are the 2 screws you are referring to for the adjustment on the side of the device? They seem to be in a very tight space. Do I need to remove the ramp post to better access them?

#7529 3 years ago
Quoted from newpinbin:

Going to try removing the screws as I don't want to risk bending/breaking it. Are the 2 screws you are referring to for the adjustment on the side of the device? They seem to be in a very tight space. Do I need to remove the ramp post to better access them?

They'll go through the side of the switch body. Honestly, I'd recommend adjusting the actuator over taking apart the ramp.

I can appreciate the caution, but light pressure is all it will likely need, about the same as a leaf switch. You might put a little too much of a bend and have to straighten the actuator arm out again, or more likely the actuator could pop off the switch body and it will have to be clipped back on again. You're not going to permanently break the actuator arm unless you do something crazy like repeating sharp bends back and forth or try to fold it in half.

Even if you totally destroy the switch, it's a $5 part, tops:

https://www.pinballlife.com/data-eastsegastern-switch-180-5010-04.html

In that picture you can see one side of the actuator clip that pops over the little plastic nubs on the switch body.

#7530 3 years ago
Quoted from Flipstream:

They'll go through the side of the switch body. Honestly, I'd recommend adjusting the actuator over taking apart the ramp.
I can appreciate the caution, but light pressure is all it will likely need, about the same as a leaf switch. You might put a little too much of a bend and have to straighten the actuator arm out again, or more likely the actuator could pop off the switch body and it will have to be clipped back on again. You're not going to permanently break the actuator arm unless you do something crazy like repeating sharp bends back and forth or try to fold it in half.
Even if you totally destroy the switch, it's a $5 part, tops:
https://www.pinballlife.com/data-eastsegastern-switch-180-5010-04.html
In that picture you can see one side of the actuator clip that pops over the little plastic nubs on the switch body.

Agreed on trying the switch reposition first (I forgot the ramp was blocking it, because if the ramp needs to be dis-assembled, it makes the job more tricky.) Bending the metal lever actuator is quite easy, but remember that the lever itself can become disconnected from the switch body if too much pressure is applied. Use small pliers, bend the arm ever so slightly and see if it helps. Then bend a bit more if needed. "Measure twice, cut once" rules apply...

#7531 3 years ago
Quoted from Flipstream:

They'll go through the side of the switch body. Honestly, I'd recommend adjusting the actuator over taking apart the ramp.
I can appreciate the caution, but light pressure is all it will likely need, about the same as a leaf switch. You might put a little too much of a bend and have to straighten the actuator arm out again, or more likely the actuator could pop off the switch body and it will have to be clipped back on again. You're not going to permanently break the actuator arm unless you do something crazy like repeating sharp bends back and forth or try to fold it in half.
Even if you totally destroy the switch, it's a $5 part, tops:
https://www.pinballlife.com/data-eastsegastern-switch-180-5010-04.html
In that picture you can see one side of the actuator clip that pops over the little plastic nubs on the switch body.

I was able to bend it and now it seems to work.

#7532 3 years ago
Quoted from newpinbin:

I was able to bend it and now it seems to work.

Excellent! Sometimes its easy cheezy fixes. Sometimes

#7533 3 years ago
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:

Excellent! Sometimes its easy cheezy fixes. Sometimes

Have you had any issue with the trex ramp? Mine consistently rejects the ball.

#7534 3 years ago
Quoted from newpinbin:

Have you had any issue with the trex ramp? Mine consistently rejects the ball.

There's a sticky in the premium/le club thread about adjusting his mounting plate( behind the backboard). I moved mine down just a hair so his jaw is closer to the ramp and it is waaay better.

#7535 3 years ago
Quoted from newpinbin:

Have you had any issue with the trex ramp? Mine consistently rejects the ball.

You have a pro? Or a premium/le? If its a pro, quite a few people have turned down their flipper power a bit and had better T rex ramp results. If you're asking about rejects due to trex not catching the ball, I'm not much help as I have a pro model

#7536 3 years ago
Quoted from newpinbin:

Have you had any issue with the trex ramp? Mine consistently rejects the ball.

If it bounces around, try turning down your flipper power on the game settings.

#7537 3 years ago
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:

You have a pro? Or a premium/le? If its a pro, quite a few people have turned down their flipper power a bit and had better T rex ramp results. If you're asking about rejects due to trex not catching the ball, I'm not much help as I have a pro model

I have the pro. How much lower than the factor setting does it need to be?

#7538 3 years ago
Quoted from newpinbin:

I have the pro. How much lower than the factor setting does it need to be?

Unless someone else knows, I'll have to look at my settings later this evening. I copied @Eaglepins settings. He fiddled with flipper power for weeks until he found a spot he liked. We should probably have someone make that post a key post.

#7539 3 years ago
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:

Unless someone else knows, I'll have to look at my settings later this evening. I copied @Eaglepins settings. He fiddled with flipper power for weeks until he found a spot he liked. We should probably have someone make that post a key post.

I lowered all flippers by 5 and it seemed to work.

#7540 3 years ago
Quoted from newpinbin:

I lowered all flippers by 5 and it seemed to work.

Nice! Sometimes we just have to play around with the settings until things flow better. Every machine feels/plays just a bit differently than the next. They're all unique in that way.

#7541 3 years ago

I noticed in the settings that you could "add goats." Do you know what that is referring to?

#7542 3 years ago

Anyone looking to sell their JP Premium? I'm in Cali and looking.

#7543 3 years ago
Quoted from newpinbin:

I noticed in the settings that you could "add goats." Do you know what that is referring to?

I believe it adds goat icons on the island map on the screen. Maybe more.

#7544 3 years ago
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:

I believe it adds goat icons on the island map on the screen. Maybe more.

Any other adjustment that need to be turned on ?

#7545 3 years ago

This is a must have! Just received mine from the ModFather!

Message_1603378682618 (resized).jpgMessage_1603378682618 (resized).jpg
#7546 3 years ago
Quoted from newpinbin:

This is a must have! Just received mine from the ModFather!
[quoted image]

If you get adventurous, you can add LEDs to the plate and power them from CN15 on the cabinet node. They are controlled by the game itself. I have a diagram posted to show you how.

#7547 3 years ago

I just got a Double Super Jackpot today after Unlocking Chaos after the Raptor Triball Ramps and Chaos...there was so much going on though, I don't know how I did it.. The callout was different and the game actually rumbled...Anyone know the progression rules I got to get that achievement?

#7548 3 years ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

I just got a Double Super Jackpot today after Unlocking Chaos after the Raptor Triball Ramps and Chaos...there was so much going on though, I don't know how I did it.. The callout was different and the game actually rumbled...Anyone know the progression rules I got to get that achievement?

Phase 1 - Raptor Tri-Ball: Shoot the left and right ramps once each for a Raptor Jackpot. The second Jackpot is worth double that of the first. The Jackpot value increases with switch hits (by how much?)

Phase 2 - Raptor Chaos: The CHAOS letters will light. Shoot all the CHAOS shots (not necessarily in order) for Raptor Chaos Jackpots worth 1/5 of the Double Jackpot value.

Phase 3 - Raptor Rampage: Raptor Tri-Ball becomes "Raptor Hex-Ball”! (or “Raptor Quint-Ball”). 3 more balls are now in play, but no more than 6. Super Jackpots are lit on the right ramp and upper loop, with the base value of the Double Jackpot, and are multiplied by the number of balls in play. The second Jackpot, once again, will be worth double the value of the first Jackpot. Get 2x Scoring ready during this phase, and watch your score skyrocket! Collecting either Super Jackpot will also award you with a Fossil for your efforts.

#7549 3 years ago
Quoted from GeekedOnPinball:

Anyone looking to sell their JP Premium? I'm in Cali and looking.

You can still buy them nib.

#7550 3 years ago
Quoted from mcvetyty:

Phase 1 - Raptor Tri-Ball: Shoot the left and right ramps once each for a Raptor Jackpot. The second Jackpot is worth double that of the first. The Jackpot value increases with switch hits (by how much?)
Phase 2 - Raptor Chaos: The CHAOS letters will light. Shoot all the CHAOS shots (not necessarily in order) for Raptor Chaos Jackpots worth 1/5 of the Double Jackpot value.
Phase 3 - Raptor Rampage: Raptor Tri-Ball becomes "Raptor Hex-Ball”! (or “Raptor Quint-Ball”). 3 more balls are now in play, but no more than 6. Super Jackpots are lit on the right ramp and upper loop, with the base value of the Double Jackpot, and are multiplied by the number of balls in play. The second Jackpot, once again, will be worth double the value of the first Jackpot. Get 2x Scoring ready during this phase, and watch your score skyrocket! Collecting either Super Jackpot will also award you with a Fossil for your efforts.

Thanks so much for this info!!! I did get the fossil award too! Really appreciate the detailed explanation

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