You can have attract music during developers credits. You can change the frequency of how often it show the credits in the settings. I have mine set to two (meaning two loops of the high scores and such) And then turn on dev attract music.

Thanks. I think I turned on dev attract music but I probably have not let it run through everything on its own long enough to get there. Being the newest game even when we turn on all 5 there isn’t much down time before someone starts a game on it. I will change the frequency of how often it shows the credits in the loop so we can hear it more.

here is a short clip MP4 of the shooter running...

https://tinyurl.com/shooterLED

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I like my jp very much. But I must admit that I'm not a pro player, so I was thinking of a center post that ease the gameplay for me.

This is a prototype done with my home cnc machine. I'll make some with a laser cutter. Leave me a pm if you are interested.

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It plays about a 7 minute song during this, so you might not want that...

Well done. So, I assume you may have had some of those parts on hand. If not, and you had to order separately that puts you a little closer to the $139 Stern version price, assuming there would ever be enough supply to meet demand. Nice to know there is a DIY option that gives identical results for a few bucks less. Thanks for detailing this.

I've created for myself and sold a ton of DIY mods (even electrical ones) on Williams, DE, and CGC games, but I'm all new to Stern/Spike 2, so things like this help accelerate my learning curve.

I am looking for the Barbasol Mod - Flashinstinct had made. If anyone has one to sell, please PM me.

Thanks

Sort of reminds me of removable training wheels on a bicycle or gutter blockers at the bowling alley. Are you sure you want to do this? While you've integrated nicely, I would encourage you work on your skills a little more. You can adjust the outlane gaps, learn to side nudge a little, and even set balls per game to 5 instead of 3 to help as you learn the game while improving. For me personally this is a step too far, but not going to criticize you if it's what you want to do.

For me, learning a new game and dealing with it's particular challenges is most of the fun. I don't want to be able to walk up to a pin and immediately set a high score. Heck, I've owned my AFMr LE for a year now and still haven't ruled the universe (gotten very close on several occasions). This is one of the challenges that keeps me coming back to that game, and I plan on enjoying learning and reaching new milestones on JP once I finally have possession of it.

Was this a one-time run with him or is he still making them? I produce a similar mod for DE JP that I sell for $60 shipped. I wasn't going to modify for Stern JP, but if he is no longer is producing his then I might reconsider if there is some demand.
barbasol.jpg

I also make a flasher cover version for $35 shipped that I could adapt for the control room plastic.

flasher.gif

Yes, I did it because of the lack of availability from Stern. The cost saved me perhaps $30 and it took me 30 minutes to build, but I only did it because I couldn't buy one from Stern.

Hello everyone, I'm a newbie owner(played machines for years though) and I've owned my Stern NIB JP premium for about 3 months and love it. It's my 3rd pinball machine. However, I'm having issues with flippers. When it arrived there always seemed to be unsmooth feel often, pushing the flipper button itself. As if it was getting friction/resistance as the button pressed in to its housing(kind of like a notch that was resisting the push and then would clear the resistance suddenly.) I more or less got used to it and now it's less pronounced. However, now the left flipper is not responding at all to subtle "micro-flips" for tap or flick passes along with post passes(won't respond at all to post pass attempts from the left flipper all of a sudden). It used to perform these functions perfectly until the last few days. The flipper is almost binary now: full flip or nothing at all. I have the flipper power set to full in the settings. I've read about new Sterns having terrible coil stops and coil sleeves. Is this maybe the issue? I've ordered new ones from pinballife.com. I'm also thinking it needs new plastic buttons just to be safe. As I investigate further I'm discovering other possibilities like the EOS switches(still unclear if that's the switch the plastic flipper button connects to or something on the playfield near the flipper coil?) Any insight or advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thx for the info! Yes, it could be just the button itself. Any chance the leaf switch/blades the button connects to could also be the issue? If I try to describe the problem, it's like I used to be able quickly or lightly press the button and it would respond well with micro-flips even from a position of cradling(button pressed in fully). Now if I'm cradling and try to post pass, etc. it doesn't respond at all to my subtle button pushes. It requires a full release of the button to respond in any way. Also, I used to like to control the ball in the left flipper at the start of a paddock. When The metal post comes out of the playfield to trap the ball in the left inlane while the paddock animation runs, I would hold my flipper up fully and the when the post releases and the ball comes out I could slightly "micro flip" to control and catch the ball in that left flipper to line up a shot to the "A" ramp for example. It's just that kind of thing. The subtlety in flipping is now gone.

Hahaha! button button button button...

Thx again

I strongly recommend ordering cliffy’s shooter lane protectors. Everything else can wait till you have time. If you can’t get them in time, at least turn down trough coil to 195 or so. I added 3 layers of blue painters tape to the lane until the protectors arrived.

I dunno about you, but most of my drains are via outlane. Loosening the tilt can help you save those center drains without needing a post.

Thanks for your in depth answer and advice. I owe this machine about 5 months roughly and going through exactly what you said, turn to 5 balls for some testing and stuff, get back to 3 and so on. Just to explore the machine. I have half a dozen good pins, but currently I'm playing only this one. . (regularly scoring about 300 to 400, high 700 mil)

I made this mod minimal invasive to have the opportunity to assemble or dissamble in few minutes. My kids enjoy dinosaur and of course this machine very much. But nudging is way out of scope for them (4y, 6y). Especially the 6y old is making great progress. So this mod is helping them a lot.

Since I clean the table regularly, I plan to remove it when friends come to play or if I want to play without this helper.

Sometimes the table is played by friends which are not into pinball at all. Perhaps I keep then the mod assembled.

I had a similar sounding issue: I had no nuance on my left flipper. It would activate at the lightest press of the button, and would not release unless I completely took my finger off the button. I ordered a leaf adjusting tool, and made gentle, stepped bends to the switch to open it a little. Now it engages about half way down, giving much more control.

The buttons themselves are very basic: they don't even have springs. All of that action comes from the leaf switch. A little spray dry lube where the actual button and housing meet would probably take care of any undue fiction. This is the stuff I use on my pins and guitars when I need to lubricate small parts:

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If other family members play (i.e. little kids), I definitely see how your mod would make things more fun for them. I do complement you on your design and execution. Hey, you could have taken the brute force approach . . . I've seen plenty of pins here on Pinside where people drilled holes and mounted posts there - argh!

anyone had issues where the right orbit shot (the "O" shot) has the ball rattle around in the top/right area, and then come into the pops? Seems to do that for me more than looping around smoothly.

I imagine the answer is already in the thread somewhere.

You sure it’s not the up post diverting the ball?

Joined the club yesterday with a nicely modded premium. Loving this powder coat job!

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Have you tried taking the glass off and rolling it through there by hand to check out what might be causing the rattle? Might be the easiest way to figure out what spot is causing it if you haven't already tried it.

Guys - what are the best scoring strategies in this game? Sometimes, I feel like I’m blowing it up and then walk with 200k. What are the best strategies to really get through the game?

Here are a few posts I bookmarked about scoring for JP2:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/130#post-5808133

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/130#post-5807793

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/88#post-5560834

Good point, sometimes I'm just not expecting the uppost

Any lane protector is fine, but Cliffs are the best and you can get in a week or two in the USA, but his stuff is carried at lots of places. Any would be fine.

Have you guys seen these?

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https://www.retrorefurbs.com/?s=jurassic+park&post_type=product

The direction the truck is facing determines whether the orbit up-post will divert the ball to the pops. If the truck is facing left, the ball will do the full orbit (assuming the shot has enough power); while if facing right, the post will come up and divert the ball into the pops

Not really doing it for me. Even tough i like a more classical looking alternate translight (got one myself). To have actors on the translight looks a bit cheesy for me. It's all taste in the end.

http://www.passionforpinball.com/ballejects.htm is his website if you want to know more, but he has everything so don't worry if you can't find it. He prefers the following ordering:

Just send an email to him at [email protected], tell him what you need and what machine you have, and give him your PAYPAL email address. He will send you an invoice which you can pay. He ships pretty quick.

Can someone please tell me with the inside width of the metal ramp at its base is? I like the Tilt Graphics decal, but they did not use velociraptor tracks (what I want), so in preparation of receiving my JP that is on order I want to design my own decal.

ramp.jpg

I recently sold a set of decals from Tilt which included the ramp. You can see the decal with velo tracks on theirs. Is that what you are looking for, or WITHOUT the velo tracks? Also, the decal is not rectangle. It has a curve on both edges. Probably easier for you to cut one out of paper, trim it to fit, matching the curve of the sides, and then on your PC design tool, smooth out all of the edges to feed the shape geometery into a cutter.
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Maybe those are Velociraptor tracks, but I'm seeing different shapes online. Also, I think I have the basic shape from a photo, just not to scale. I've made several different ramp decals in the past for people, but was just looking to get a head start on this one for myself.

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I found apicture of the actual set I receivced from Tilt. You can see the tracks ...

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After doing more searching it appears those are raptor tracks, just not velociraptor. I want to make my own using velociraptor tracks - just need the width at bottom so I can scale the shape accordingly. If nobody can provide the measurement, then I'll just have to wait.

So I have a Prem on order...deposit paid...

What the "THE" mods to have.....and is there a rule/gameplay sheet? Munsters has a good one....

- Start paddock
- Rescue people
- Set traps
- Fuel helicopter
- Capture dino
...repeat until game ends

While doing that:
- Spell CHAOS
- Hit the jeep captive ball
- Shoot the raptor pen

Is there a way to cancel a control room mode at the selection? Tonight I was one shot away from Museum Mayhem on ball 3 and I accidentally hit the lit control room. Control room modes lock you out of progress towards T Rex modes so I would have wanted to cancel it. Luckily I was able to get through it and got to play Museum Mayhem but drained before I could kill the second raptor and get to the victory multiball from completing it. Thinking if I was in a tournament and I almost had museum mayhem lit I wouldn’t want to chance it.

Can someone tell me what I'm missing here? I got my game with alternate game software installed. I want to revert it to stock. When I download the Stern zip file and unzip it, I get two files. I don't get a .raw file. What am I doing wrong here?

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I don't think you can cancel it. I'm pretty sure once it's started you have to select one and play it.

I'm pretty sure I'm remembering right that you just need to put both the .000 and .001 files on the root level of the USB drive and then put it in the machine for the update.

They now support both USB loading, and direct to SDcard. You can take those files and put on a USB drive and then power up, but They are encouraging direct these days.
https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/How-to-Create-a-SD-Card-for-a-SPIKE-System-Pinball-Machine.pdf