Thanks for all the input! I will report after further testing 
(Topic ID: 248582)
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Jurassic Park (30th Anniversary LE)
Stern, 2023-
Jurassic Park (Limited Edition)
Stern, 2019
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Jurassic Park (Premium)
Stern, 2019
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Jurassic Park (Pro)
Stern, 2019
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Fremont, CA
Just got an email saying that Powerbladez for JP are on sale for $249 through Sunday. This is the animated side graphics version. Looks amazing, but I am curious how something that expensive would hold up after a couple times of lifting the playfield. I feel like one bad lift and the Powerbladez become a "No-Power Bladez"
Anyone have comments on their experience with this type of powered sideblades?
https://www.pingraffix.com/product-page/jurassic-park-pinball-powerbladez
Quoted from Markharris2000:Just got an email saying that Powerbladez for JP are on sale for $249 through Sunday. This is the animated side graphics version. Looks amazing, but I am curious how something that expensive would hold up after a couple times of lifting the playfield. I feel like one bad lift and the Powerbladez become a "No-Power Bladez"
Anyone have comments on their experience with this type of powered sideblades?
https://www.pingraffix.com/product-page/jurassic-park-pinball-powerbladez
I recommend these
https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html
Lethbridge, AB
Quoted from Markharris2000:Just got an email saying that Powerbladez for JP are on sale for $249 through Sunday. This is the animated side graphics version. Looks amazing, but I am curious how something that expensive would hold up after a couple times of lifting the playfield. I feel like one bad lift and the Powerbladez become a "No-Power Bladez"
Anyone have comments on their experience with this type of powered sideblades?
https://www.pingraffix.com/product-page/jurassic-park-pinball-powerbladez
They're ringing up as $299 for me. Typo in the e-mail?
Quoted from Soulstoner:They're ringing up as $299 for me. Typo in the e-mail?
The email is very clear. Regular price $299, now through Sunday $249. You may have to call them if the cart/checkout dowsn't adjust before you hit the final buy button.
jpbl (resized).jpgI have mirror blades and stadium lighting on my JP, and love the look and functionality. That combo isn't much more than these, and much cheaper if you make the lighting yourself. I've read a lot of horror stories on other games (Munsters for sure) about these.
20200908_181435 (resized).jpgMarkharris2000 might check out these posts on the power blades. From the munsters club.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/1313-mockingbird-lane-munsters-club/page/180#post-5854876
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/1313-mockingbird-lane-munsters-club/page/180#post-5858022
Quoted from gorditas:I have mirror blades and stadium lighting on my JP, and love the look and functionality. That combo isn't much more than these, and much cheaper if you make the lighting yourself. I've read a lot of horror stories on other games (Munsters for sure) about these.
[quoted image]
Looks fantastic
Quoted from dimthedaylights:So my wire from rattles like crazy off the metal guide. Even the music makes it rattle. Any quick fixes?
[quoted image]
My wire form doesn't touch the guide like yours does. You can reposition the wire form. Loosen the couple screws that hold it in place, slightly reposition and tighten the screws back down.
Quoted from dimthedaylights:Is the wire supposed to pas through this connector? If anyone has a pic that would be great!
[quoted image]
Mine looks like yours.
C870F457-829C-4281-8E3F-6613ED96C431 (resized).jpegQuoted from dimthedaylights:So my wire from rattles like crazy off the metal guide. Even the music makes it rattle. Any quick fixes?
[quoted image]
My wireform doesn’t touch the ball guide. I see how your wireform touching the metal ball guide could cause the rattling you hear. Loosening your screws on the wireform and trying to pull the wireform away from the metal ball guide and re-tightening might do the trick.
My distributor emailed Stern today, and they told him that the next availability for amber shooter rods is slated for early November. I was interested in this one on eBay that just closed if it could be had for close to the MSRP ($139) + shipping, but somebody else was willing to pay just slightly more than I was. Wow, looks like they just had to have it!
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:My distributor emailed Stern today, and they told him that the next availability for amber shooter rods is slated for early November. I was interested in this one on eBay that just closed if it could be had for close to the MSRP ($139) + shipping, but somebody else was willing to pay just slightly more than I was. Wow, looks like they just had to have it!
[quoted image]
you can get them online at stern
Quoted from Green-Machine:No, they are out of stock
not when I click on one, it goes into the cart
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:My distributor emailed Stern today, and they told him that the next availability for amber shooter rods is slated for early November. I was interested in this one on eBay that just closed if it could be had for close to the MSRP ($139) + shipping, but somebody else was willing to pay just slightly more than I was. Wow, looks like they just had to have it!
[quoted image]
Looks like this guy bought it
8D79AFA8-F59F-4BE7-B0CE-078DF47E99B6 (resized).pngQuoted from Mr_Tantrum:My distributor emailed Stern today, and they told him that the next availability for amber shooter rods is slated for early November. I was interested in this one on eBay that just closed if it could be had for close to the MSRP ($139) + shipping, but somebody else was willing to pay just slightly more than I was. Wow, looks like they just had to have it!
[quoted image]
DAYUUUMMMM! $400 Bones?!?! I'll pass.
Quoted from Green-Machine:Looks like this guy bought it.
At least it was a fellow Pinsider.
Quoted from kidchrisso:you can get them online at stern
No you can't. When you go to pay is states they are sold out.
pasted_image (resized).png
However, Pinball Life does show to have them in stock for $200, but I don't know if they really do or not (usually they are good at keeping their site current). However, $200 is still too much when I can just wait 6-8 weeks for the $139 price (won't have my pin until late October at the earliest anyway): https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-jurassic-park-custom-shooter-rod.html
All, anyone that really wants a lit amber shooter can source the $99 one at Modfather, then add $5 worth of LEDs (drill two holes in the existing shooter plate), 2-feet of wire, two 150ohm resistors and a .156 connector (marco for $1). This is the DIY shooter but apparently will save you $250!!!! And if you don't care about the lite-up, then just spend the $99 and you can install in 5 minutes.
Quoted from Markharris2000:All, anyone that really wants a lit amber shooter can source the $99 one at Modfather, then add $5 worth of LEDs (drill two holes in the existing shooter plate), 2-feet of wire, two 150ohm resistors and a .156 connector (marco for $1). This is the DIY shooter but apparently will save you $250!!!! And if you don't care about the lite-up, then just spend the $99 and you can install in 5 minutes.
I have heard a lot of talk about this....yet I have never seen a video or even a post about anyone actually doing it. Why isn't someone looking to make that cash grab selling these after market game controlled shooter housings for Jurassic Park and Stranger Things?
Quoted from DugFreez:I have heard a lot of talk about this....yet I have never seen a video or even a post about anyone actually doing it. Why isn't someone looking to make that cash grab selling these after market game controlled shooter housings for Jurassic Park and Stranger Things?
Correct. And even if they did, would it still interact with the game like the Stern one does?
Quoted from beelzeboob:Correct. And even if they did, would it still interact with the game like the Stern one does?
Yeah....I mean people have documented how they connect the official Stern shooter rod lit housing. It's not like the toppers where they have a board to let the game know its there so it knows to operate or not. It's just a harness that plugs in the cabinet node board to light the extra shooter housing lights when it's supposed to. I've just never seen or heard of anyone actually doing it.
I'm just not sure why no one has jumped into making them. Seems like money on the table for whoever wants to take it. You would think the folks selling the Jurassic Park and Stranger Things look alike shooter rods would be the most likely sellers.
Quoted from DugFreez:I have heard a lot of talk about this....yet I have never seen a video or even a post about anyone actually doing it. Why isn't someone looking to make that cash grab selling these after market game controlled shooter housings for Jurassic Park and Stranger Things?
Quoted from beelzeboob:Correct. And even if they did, would it still interact with the game like the Stern one does?
I have seen the posts for this. Some did a better job than others but it is doable. Yes you can plug into same interactive plug that Sterns does
The posts are in this thread or the Le thread
It actually looks very easily done
Quoted from DugFreez:I have heard a lot of talk about this....yet I have never seen a video or even a post about anyone actually doing it. Why isn't someone looking to make that cash grab selling these after market game controlled shooter housings for Jurassic Park and Stranger Things?
I am going to build one this weekend and will take pictures of each step and post those pictures accordingly. It plugs into the same CN15 connector, so whatever the Stern unit does, the DIY unit will do too... I posted the schematic a month ago in case anyone wanted to do this themselves.
And apparently I can sell them for $400 a piece... (LOL)
Melbourne
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:Thanks for all the input! I will report after further testing
Another thing to try is testing each of the balls separately to see if the failures are associated with specific balls - while I was sceptical I've seen where a JP was having these exact issues and a pinball tech tested each ball separately and found that 2 of the balls failed to regularly make the ramp yet the others were able to. He replaced those 2 balls and the autoplunger issue has gone away. The tech indicated that there is a magnet in T-Rex's mouth and maybe these balls had become slightly magnetised.
I know this sounds weird and the JP owner & I weren't 100% sure this was the issue ... however it did address the problem, so worth a try if you're struggling to find the cause
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Just received my custom built Titan ring kit for JP Premium: https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/view/id/1475
Stupid question, but I've never owned a Stern - I assume the post sleeves are to be installed where they taper from thicker at top to thinner at bottom?
I also highly recommend their clear cling on button protectors to protect the artwork around the buttons over time from wear due to rubbing with hands and oil transfer. https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=63&product_id=138
The mod pile is growing! I'm going to be very busy once my game finally does arrive in late October.
[quoted image]
are there any pics with this set install?
Quoted from davijc02:So this new code that includes video clips. Where do I find it? I just watched it streamed by the pinball mafia and it looks awesome!
Video modes only available for premium and le
Here is my custom built Titan ring kit for JP Premium: https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/view/id/1475
I also highly recommend their clear cling on button protectors to protect the artwork around the buttons over time from wear due to rubbing with hands and oil transfer. https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=63&product_id=138
I won't be able to offer real pics until I get my game in late October, but here is a Photoshop rendering (I may have missed a ring or two since some things are hard to see in this pic).
JurassicPark-LE-Playfield(colored).jpg
44a4aba7494d7a57ff8a54f50770a00d133f2d46 (resized).jpg
Quoted from dimthedaylights:https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-jurassic-park-2-custom-code-project/page/16#post-5872064
Video modes only available for premium and le
Well shoot! Maybe one day they will be available for the pro.
Quoted from davijc02:Well shoot! Maybe one day they will be available for the pro.
There is an audio only version for the pro. Way worth it!
Quoted from NightTrain:Hey all. I’m going to check out a JP Premium today. Did they ever fix the early play field issues? What exactly were all the issues? Is there a manufacturing date that would be better? Anything else to be on the lookout for?
Thanks!
The issues are still happening. Some games seem OK, others have clear pooling/chipping, ghosting, etc. Best case scenario is you get a game with very thin clear. Their solution to pooling seemed to be to just put almost no clear on it at all... But even so pooling still tends to happen under rails. Some people also reported very bad wood grain under the artwork.
Quoted from DugFreez:I have heard a lot of talk about this....yet I have never seen a video or even a post about anyone actually doing it. Why isn't someone looking to make that cash grab selling these after market game controlled shooter housings for Jurassic Park and Stranger Things?
I made another one today, making sure to take pictures along the way. You can see the parts: The two LEDs, the two 220ohm resistors, and the .100" connector, plus THREE 36-inch pieces of stranded 24GA wire. I reused the shooter plate and the backer plate.
TIP: Before taking the factory shooter plate out, use some blue tape on the FRONT of the machine on all four edges (see in picture #19) which makes it much easier to put the modified shooter back in the exact same spot.
The most delicate part is drilling the powder-coated shooter plate, because you want that to look perfect. You can see how I drilled the shooter plate from the front and using blue painters tape after I measured the right place. (Approx 3/4" in from each edge, and about 1-1/4" down from the top. I use Blue tape to keep everything clean of residue. I then glued in the LEDs from the back using superglue-brand adhesive (not thin superglue, but their thicker Fixall adhesive you can get at Dollar Tree). I let dry for a couple of hours. Notice I used yellow water-clear light-pipe style LEDs to have a tiny hole visible from the front, but any type of LED can be used.
In picture #13 you can see that I also drilled a small hole on the back support structure to allow a tie-wrap to fasten the wire to the metal plate itself. I also had to cut a small slot in the steel backer plate to allow the wire to pass through. This is the same approach Stern uses for their version. Finally, I tie-wrapped the 3-wire bundle every 6 inches and then routed the three wire bundle around the coin door, and plugged connector into CN15.
Note: The wires must exit the plate on the left side, so after I took the pictures, I remembered that they need to exit left instead of down, as shown in the pictures. Easy to bend the cabling to exit left.
Viola' !!! Yes, it behaves just like Stern's version. The LEDs have a left/right fading effect, rather than just always ON as would have been the case if powered by any other power-source like most other mods do. If they ever do more in software for their own lighted shooter, this one will respond the exact same way.
IMG_1325 (resized).jpgIMG_1326 (resized).jpgIMG_1327 (resized).jpgIMG_1328 (resized).jpgIMG_1329 (resized).jpgIMG_1330 (resized).jpgIMG_1331 (resized).jpgIMG_1332 (resized).jpgIMG_1333 (resized).jpgIMG_1335 (resized).jpgIMG_1336 (resized).jpgIMG_1338 (resized).jpgIMG_1339 (resized).jpgIMG_1340 (resized).jpgIMG_1341 (resized).jpgIMG_1342 (resized).jpgIMG_1343 (resized).jpgIMG_1345 (resized).jpgIMG_1346 (resized).jpgIMG_1347 (resized).jpgIMG_1348 (resized).jpgIMG_1349 (resized).jpgIMG_1350 (resized).jpgIMG_1351 (resized).jpg
Quoted from Markharris2000:I made another one today, making sure to take pictures along the way. You can see the parts: The two LEDs, the two 220ohm resistors, and the .100" connector, plus THREE 36-inch pieces of stranded 24GA wire. I reused the shooter plate and the backer plate.
TIP: Before taking the factory shooter plate out, use some blue tape on the FRONT of the machine on all four edges (see in picture #19) which makes it much easier to put the modified shooter back in the exact same spot.
The most delicate part is drilling the powder-coated shooter plate, because you want that to look perfect. You can see how I drilled the shooter plate from the front and using blue painters tape after I measured the right place. (Approx 3/4" in from each edge, and about 1-1/4" down from the top. I use Blue tape to keep everything clean of residue. I then glued in the LEDs from the back using superglue-brand adhesive (not thin superglue, but their thicker adhesive you can get at Dollar Tree). I let dry for a couple of hours. Notice I used yellow water-clear light-pipe style LEDs to have a tiny hole visible from the front, but any type of LED can be used.
In picture #13 you can se that I also drilled a small hole on the back support structure to allow a tie-wrap to fasten the wire to the metal plate itself. I also had to cut a small slot in the steel backer plate to allow the wire to pass through. This is the same approach Stern uses for their version. Finally, I tie-wrapped the 3-wire bund every 6 inches and then routed the three wire bundle around the coin door, and plugged connector into CN15.
Note: The wires must exit the plate on the left side, so after I took the pictures, I remembered that they need to exit left instead of down, as shown in the pictures. Easy to move the cabling to exit left.
Viola' !!! Yes, it behaves just like Stern's version. The LEDs have a left/right fading effect, rather than just always ON. If they ever do more in software for their own lighted shooter, this one will respond the exact same way.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I want to be you when I grow up. (And I don't mean to sound like a dick saying that...I mean it as a compliment!) That's actually VERY impressive. I should just buy all my Stern mods from you from now on. 
Well done! 
Quoted from Markharris2000:I made another one today, making sure to take pictures along the way. You can see the parts: The two LEDs, the two 220ohm resistors, and the .100" connector, plus THREE 36-inch pieces of stranded 24GA wire. I reused the shooter plate and the backer plate.
TIP: Before taking the factory shooter plate out, use some blue tape on the FRONT of the machine on all four edges (see in picture #19) which makes it much easier to put the modified shooter back in the exact same spot.
The most delicate part is drilling the powder-coated shooter plate, because you want that to look perfect. You can see how I drilled the shooter plate from the front and using blue painters tape after I measured the right place. (Approx 3/4" in from each edge, and about 1-1/4" down from the top. I use Blue tape to keep everything clean of residue. I then glued in the LEDs from the back using superglue-brand adhesive (not thin superglue, but their thicker adhesive you can get at Dollar Tree). I let dry for a couple of hours. Notice I used yellow water-clear light-pipe style LEDs to have a tiny hole visible from the front, but any type of LED can be used.
In picture #13 you can se that I also drilled a small hole on the back support structure to allow a tie-wrap to fasten the wire to the metal plate itself. I also had to cut a small slot in the steel backer plate to allow the wire to pass through. This is the same approach Stern uses for their version. Finally, I tie-wrapped the 3-wire bund every 6 inches and then routed the three wire bundle around the coin door, and plugged connector into CN15.
Note: The wires must exit the plate on the left side, so after I took the pictures, I remembered that they need to exit left instead of down, as shown in the pictures. Easy to move the cabling to exit left.
Viola' !!! Yes, it behaves just like Stern's version. The LEDs have a left/right fading effect, rather than just always ON. If they ever do more in software for their own lighted shooter, this one will respond the exact same way.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Nicely documented - well done and thanks for sharing
Quoted from Markharris2000:I made another one today, making sure to take pictures along the way. You can see the parts: The two LEDs, the two 220ohm resistors, and the .100" connector, plus THREE 36-inch pieces of stranded 24GA wire. I reused the shooter plate and the backer plate.
TIP: Before taking the factory shooter plate out, use some blue tape on the FRONT of the machine on all four edges (see in picture #19) which makes it much easier to put the modified shooter back in the exact same spot.
The most delicate part is drilling the powder-coated shooter plate, because you want that to look perfect. You can see how I drilled the shooter plate from the front and using blue painters tape after I measured the right place. (Approx 3/4" in from each edge, and about 1-1/4" down from the top. I use Blue tape to keep everything clean of residue. I then glued in the LEDs from the back using superglue-brand adhesive (not thin superglue, but their thicker Fixall adhesive you can get at Dollar Tree). I let dry for a couple of hours. Notice I used yellow water-clear light-pipe style LEDs to have a tiny hole visible from the front, but any type of LED can be used.
In picture #13 you can see that I also drilled a small hole on the back support structure to allow a tie-wrap to fasten the wire to the metal plate itself. I also had to cut a small slot in the steel backer plate to allow the wire to pass through. This is the same approach Stern uses for their version. Finally, I tie-wrapped the 3-wire bundle every 6 inches and then routed the three wire bundle around the coin door, and plugged connector into CN15.
Note: The wires must exit the plate on the left side, so after I took the pictures, I remembered that they need to exit left instead of down, as shown in the pictures. Easy to bend the cabling to exit left.
Viola' !!! Yes, it behaves just like Stern's version. The LEDs have a left/right fading effect, rather than just always ON as would have been the case if powered by any other power-source like most other mods do. If they ever do more in software for their own lighted shooter, this one will respond the exact same way.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
no pic with the lights on?
Quoted from Markharris2000:I made another one today, making sure to take pictures along the way. You can see the parts: The two LEDs, the two 220ohm resistors, and the .100" connector, plus THREE 36-inch pieces of stranded 24GA wire. I reused the shooter plate and the backer plate.
TIP: Before taking the factory shooter plate out, use some blue tape on the FRONT of the machine on all four edges (see in picture #19) which makes it much easier to put the modified shooter back in the exact same spot.
The most delicate part is drilling the powder-coated shooter plate, because you want that to look perfect. You can see how I drilled the shooter plate from the front and using blue painters tape after I measured the right place. (Approx 3/4" in from each edge, and about 1-1/4" down from the top. I use Blue tape to keep everything clean of residue. I then glued in the LEDs from the back using superglue-brand adhesive (not thin superglue, but their thicker Fixall adhesive you can get at Dollar Tree). I let dry for a couple of hours. Notice I used yellow water-clear light-pipe style LEDs to have a tiny hole visible from the front, but any type of LED can be used.
In picture #13 you can see that I also drilled a small hole on the back support structure to allow a tie-wrap to fasten the wire to the metal plate itself. I also had to cut a small slot in the steel backer plate to allow the wire to pass through. This is the same approach Stern uses for their version. Finally, I tie-wrapped the 3-wire bundle every 6 inches and then routed the three wire bundle around the coin door, and plugged connector into CN15.
Note: The wires must exit the plate on the left side, so after I took the pictures, I remembered that they need to exit left instead of down, as shown in the pictures. Easy to bend the cabling to exit left.
Viola' !!! Yes, it behaves just like Stern's version. The LEDs have a left/right fading effect, rather than just always ON as would have been the case if powered by any other power-source like most other mods do. If they ever do more in software for their own lighted shooter, this one will respond the exact same way.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Looks great.
I do have some questions... I've never seen how the official Stern product works (either in test or during game play) so a video would be nice. One thing I would have suggested to be cautious about is to make sure you have the right and left lights wired correctly. In the wiring diagrams I saw, I didn't notice either of the LED connections labelled as right or left. If it were me, I would want to make sure they were wired just like the factory ones were. Are you sure your lights are wired just like the factory mod and it does not have the lights reversed? I doubt it would make much of a difference, but it would to me. That brings me to my next question...how are these controlled lights labeled in the test menu? If it were something simple like aux shooter left and aux shooter right....it would be simple enough to see how things should be wired, but I don't have access to my game so I can not check in the test menu.
Also....do you have any idea if the lit shooter housing that Stern sold for Stranger Things is wired the same way?
As I said, it looks great and even more straight forward than the way Stern has it wired. I don't see where their extra plug in added any benefit at all (unless there is a different between one game and another and that added connection end is different for different games).
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