I bought it on Amazon, 30€.
https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B07R625LWH/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3

While we’re on the post sleeve discussion, what are you all using for tapered sleeves? I bought the translucent sleeves (I forget the brand) from Pinball life and I like the feel, but they’re not tapered and I’m getting a fair amount of gnarly hit-the-glass air balls. I’d like to go to tapered and could use some recommendations. Thanks!

i have superbands, too, and i feel like the airballs calmed down over time. i barely get any now.

Looks like that’s what I’m using also (just checked). I have not lowered my flipper power from factory settings, however. I know a lot of people have.

For those interested, I just created my Titan rubber kit for JP Prem/LE: https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/view/id/1475

It is a mix of orange and yellow along with green for the upper flipper.

I also got in on the October run with a distributor. But, as i've learned through many many years of NIB purchasing, nothing is a for sure thing until the game is actually in my hands. Delays do happen; sometimes it's a manufacturing issue, sometimes a supplier issue, sometimes weather, viruses, etc... that cause delays and their build amount isn't what they projected and so people get screwed. Sometimes, a distributor oversold or got a high dollar loyal customer to bump someone out (I don't know if that actually ever happens, curious if it does, but money talks...). All in all, if you have your deposit in and the distributor said your locked in for the October run, then your chances are pretty good. But, shit does happen and it sucks when it does. Especially since there won't be another run of JP's until 2021. Here's to us hopefuls who are 'locked in' - oh and to the pinball gods, mine and my son's birthday is at the end of october, so make it a good one please

I am interested! However, your link isn't working.. It just takes me to their homepage. Do you need to swap it out with one that is public-facing?

Sorry, please try updated link in my original post.

it arrived !!!

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Dude...um...I don't think you're gonna be able to pick it up that way.

He's not trying to pick it up.

Man, Vermont sure is pretty, you just have to look past the box humper

I know the feeling! Just got home from work and mine is here as well! We are both going to be doing some unboxing tonight! Have fun!

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You ain’t doing it right, come on man, hump that thing!

Camp Cretaceous is very good and just not for kids,I have been watching on the edge of my seat!

Pinball hugger.

Finally got her hardware from the powder coater.

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Always check your boxes for glory holes upon delivery.

Just a few random rule questions:

- What qualifies the 3rd control room? I know first Dino caught and raptor MB jackpot are the first two.

- What qualifies the smart missile/super spinner inlane lights?

- What is the point of pteranodon attack? And what is the best strategy to score points?

Thanks!

http://tiltforums.com/t/stern-jurassic-park-rulesheet/5644

Control room modes are lit by:

Catching your first dinosaur
Spelling CHAOS twice
Getting a Jackpot in Raptor Tri-Ball
15 tower shots

Lit Inlane Features

Light them via Rescues completed. If the Ankylosaurus has been captured, one less Rescue PER award is required. For example, if light inlanes is lit at 5 rescues and then 5 rescues after that (10 total), with the Easier Inlanes perk it would be lit at 4 rescues, then 4 rescues after that (8 total). Only one inlane will be lit a time – in the direction that the truck is facing. After you roll over the lit inlane, eventually turn the truck the other direction and your other inlane will be lit to claim the other reward, regardless of whether or not you successfully hit the spinner or the pops standup. Any uncollected lit inlane will be lost when you drain your ball.

Pteranodon Attack

Shoot the right ramp 4 times to start. Pteranodon Attack is a timed frenzy mode where all switches add 25K (+10K each subsequent Pteranodon mode) to an award collected at the right ramp, and can be rebuilt/re-collected while there’s time left in the mode. Each threshold of 12 switches adds a multiplier to your next award, and resets only when you collect a Pteranodon award at the R ramp. When the mode times out (or if you drain), the multiplier carries over to the next Pteranodon Attack, but not the award value – meaning it might be a good idea to focus on building up the multiplier for the first Pteranodon Attack instead of trying to collect the award. Note: the Amber Frenzy timer will not pause in the pops nor during game stoppages such as mode introductions.

Maybe that's why prices are going up. Innovation!

Just the connectors that come with it

“Kinetic satisfaction”

Short of putting Stadium lights in a JP, has anyone else been able to lighten the playfield with bulb replacements or other "tricks"?

I used bulbs, really nice for just a few bucks. I used bright leds, you can use frosted ones then the shadow will be less hard.

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I had a hard time tracking one of these down, but found a good price here (about $10 shipped): https://www.inmyparentsbasement.com/products/7gg-toy-matchbox-jworld-truckhelicop-hb1?_pos=43&_sid=59f2e159b&_ss=r

FYI, I'm ordering a premium, but really like what fooflighter did with the chopper: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/121#post-5764565

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Lighted star post work great

Whew! Finally finished reading every post in this thread. Now, I'm moving on to the Premium/LE thread, and then the custom audio/video thread. I have to do something to keep me going until late October (the next JP Premium production run).

Just received my custom built Titan ring kit for JP Premium: https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/view/id/1475

Stupid question, but I've never owned a Stern - I assume the post sleeves are to be installed where they taper from thicker at top to thinner at bottom?

I also highly recommend their clear cling on button protectors to protect the artwork around the buttons over time from wear due to rubbing with hands and oil transfer. https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=63&product_id=138

The mod pile is growing! I'm going to be very busy once my game finally does arrive in late October.
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Is there any kind of update from Stern to keep the balls from flying behind the Rapture pit and getting stuck? Like a bent plastic or metal piece?

You are correct-Thick on top. You’ll see that the stock rubber sleeves are installed that way.

I replaced the rubbers when I got this game, but couldn't remove the right ramp to get the ones under it. How does that ramp come off?

For those who have done custom powder coating, what does it roughly cost to do the 4 legs, hold down bat and 2 side rails?

Thanks

Mine is usually $2-300 but I also do shooter housing, hinges, cd, loli rails, and sometimes aprons and habitrails.

Thanks. We have a shop about 15 miles away that I drove by frequently. Will stop there one day and ask them. They did some work for me about 5 years ago on our Jeep, but can't remember how much that was. Just want to get a general idea to know if they are trying to rip me off or not.

My autolaunches are getting worse to a point it really pisses me off and I do not know how to fix it.
I realigned the shooter fork, did the washer fix and lifted up the heli ramp a littlebit, since the ball sometimes touches it from below.
Yesterday I took alot of slomo videos. One big problem is the thin metal flap on the right side of the shooter lane. Its enough send the ball into the opposite direction, leading to massive rattling. However sometimes the ball launches perfectly straight and it still wont make it up the ramp. Any ideas?

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I think you have to use thinner washers and/or lower the coil strength. Because your ball is flying over the ball guide. The whole issue with the auto launch is on my machine caused by misaligned screw holes for the auto launch mechanism. Only option to ensure that the ball is launched straight is to drill bigger holes in the mech to give it some freedom to be aligned properly. Bending the fork still causes a left/right movement during launch.

By right ramp you mean the helix one or the helipad?

The Helix ramp can be removed as a whole piece (Ramp and wireform). There are 2 Nuts under the playfield that hold it. There may be another on top but it should be selfexplanatory after loosening the ones under the playfield.

Looks like it’s bouncing up off the shooter fork. Make sure the washer didn’t raise the fork leg above the wood of the shooter lane.

Your left fork seems a bit high...I set my power to 200 for a 7 deg angle.

Also, make sure both forks of the autolauncher are touching the bal during the entire forward movement of the mechanism. Turn off the machine and push the launcher my hand to ensure smooth contact until the ball would no longer connect...It'll take some trial and error to get it right...mine did but now about 99% launch correctly

No help to offer, but that second video is a piece of art.

Also, the ball path looks sort of like a major league curve ball, or maybe a PBA bowler ball path.

Based on your second video it looks like your power is WAY too high. You practically have an airball coming out of the lane! If it's only happening on the auto-plunge, then you know its one of two things: the power of the coil, or the alignment of the fork.

As I mentioned back in post #6795, lower your auto-plunger coil power if you haven't already.. Mine is all the way down to 155 and I rarely have a miss anymore. And then, make sure the auto-plunger forks are both touching the ball at rest. If they aren't, bend one until they both do.

Yes! That ball is floating!

Dukes of Hazzard style auto launch! Yeee haaaw

The airball launch seems to be related to the auto-launch mechanism's forks. I can't think of anything else that would send the ball into the air at that stage of shooting. (The ramp forks and the left tong washer 'fix' get involved later up the ramp in a properly working machine). Perhaps you adjusted those autolaunch forks way out of spec? The coil power could be too high as well, but there is something else drastically wrong because the factory setting for coil power does not normally make airballs. The ramp fork and washer furthar up the lane may also be wrong and need to be corrrect, but the ball is literally flying over those in your video, so start with fixing the autolauncher first. Try to get it back to 'factory'. Its possible both forks of the autolauncher are now touching the ball, but they are BOTH too far forward or too far back. (my vote is they are BOTH too far back)

You may need to post a snapshot of how the ball is sitting in the lane before it is launched. Remove the apron and shoot picture top-down so we can see how the ball is sitting in the lane at rest.

Once the airballs are fixed, you should show us some slo-mo of MANUAL launching as well to help resolve the shooter land left tong/washer/coil-power issues.