(Topic ID: 248582)

Jurassic Park (Stern 2019 & 30th) Owners Club. Welcome! To Jurassic park.....

By CoolCatPinball

4 years ago


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There are 21,323 posts in this topic. You are on page 139 of 427.
#6901 3 years ago

It's official - I just put in my JP Premium order! Looking forward to joining the club in what is hopefully a few short days. Thanks for everyone's insight and support in helping me make my decision.

#6902 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

It's official - I just put in my JP Premium order! Looking forward to joining the club in what is hopefully a few short days. Thanks for everyone's insight and support in helping me make my decision.

Just did the same thing Tuesday! Looks like its going to arrive next week

#6903 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

It's official - I just put in my JP Premium order! Looking forward to joining the club in what is hopefully a few short days. Thanks for everyone's insight and support in helping me make my decision.

So you have a week or so to compile a set of MUST DO's. Let me start you off by suggesting that you immediatly getting an order into Cliff to get his shooter-lane protector kit. Everything else can wait IMHO, but playfield damage is possible day-1. You could/should also turn down the coil strength for the ball trough coil (maybe just under 200 or so), but the stainless steel protector would be the right answer. Place the order today.

Then you can look at: 1) a washer under the left shooter ramp steel tong and lower the shooter autolauncher coil to 200 or so, 2) putting a non-metallic washer under the post at the tip of the third flipper. (Cliff has a new carbon fiber one for a couple of bucks you can get at the same time).

Lastly, over the next few days try to go find a mechanics ignition miniature open-end wrench set since you'll need that to adjust a few playfield posts and other items, INCLUDING the post I mentioned above in #2 which is mounted underneath the flipper assembly itself. Regular wrenches will NOT fit since the space between the playfield wood and the underside of the metal flipper bracker is very narrow! The aforementioned wrench sets actually fits in that space.

#6904 3 years ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

So you have a week or so to compile a set of MUST DO's. Let me start you off by suggesting that you immediatly getting an order into Cliff to get his shooter-lane protector kit. Everything else can wait IMHO, but playfield damage is possible day-1. You could/should also turn down the coil strength for the ball trough coil (maybe just under 200 or so), but the stainless steel protector would be the right answer. Place the order today.
Then you can look at: 1) a washer under the left shooter ramp steel tong and lower the shooter autolauncher coil to 200 or so, 2) putting a non-metallic washer under the post at the tip of the third flipper. (Cliff has a new carbon fiber one for a couple of bucks you can get at the same time).
Lastly, over the next few days try to go find a mechanics ignition miniature open-end wrench set since you'll need that to adjust a few playfield posts and other items, INCLUDING the post I mentioned above in #2 which is mounted underneath the flipper assembly itself. Regular wrenches will NOT fit since the space between the playfield wood and the underside of the metal flipper bracker is very narrow! The aforementioned wrench sets actually fits in that space.

I would add coil stops to that list. Many stories on here of the stock ones failing

#6905 3 years ago

I will be joining the club soon as well. Just put in my order for a pro! This will be my 5th machine but first NIB! I have played it a few times in a league before everything shut down and at first I wasn’t sure about it but after I watched some in depth videos and played it again I was hooked and consider it to be my favorite game of all time. Really looking forward to getting some good time on it at home and exploring all the rules and modes!

#6906 3 years ago
Quoted from fisherdaman:

Just did the same thing Tuesday! Looks like its going to arrive next week

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

It's official - I just put in my JP Premium order! Looking forward to joining the club in what is hopefully a few short days. Thanks for everyone's insight and support in helping me make my decision.

Me too!!!

#6907 3 years ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

Well I have a Avengers IQ Prem on order....and am now considering swapping to JP....reading a ton on this thread.....

Quoted from dimthedaylights:

Interesting as that’s exactly what I did

I think if you don't go for Limited Edition because they sell out very soon, for avoid surprises the better choice it's wait a few month to see the evolution of the gameplay and the code, JP it's better choice because have one year in the market and it's completly contrasted.

#6908 3 years ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

So you have a week or so to compile a set of MUST DO's. Let me start you off by suggesting that you immediatly getting an order into Cliff to get his shooter-lane protector kit. Everything else can wait IMHO, but playfield damage is possible day-1. You could/should also turn down the coil strength for the ball trough coil (maybe just under 200 or so), but the stainless steel protector would be the right answer. Place the order today.
Then you can look at: 1) a washer under the left shooter ramp steel tong and lower the shooter autolauncher coil to 200 or so, 2) putting a non-metallic washer under the post at the tip of the third flipper. (Cliff has a new carbon fiber one for a couple of bucks you can get at the same time).
Lastly, over the next few days try to go find a mechanics ignition miniature open-end wrench set since you'll need that to adjust a few playfield posts and other items, INCLUDING the post I mentioned above in #2 which is mounted underneath the flipper assembly itself. Regular wrenches will NOT fit since the space between the playfield wood and the underside of the metal flipper bracker is very narrow! The aforementioned wrench sets actually fits in that space.

If only I could get off that easy. Here's what I'm already committed to besides the pin:
- Stern Topper
- Stern Shaker
- Backbox & Cabinet speakers
- Speaker Lights with 5.25" mounts
- Side Blades (Tilt Graphics)
- Cliffy Protectors + Carbon Fiber washer
- Pin Stadium Omega lights
- Safari Farms Nanny Goat with I will paint to look like the one in the movie
- JP Jeep to replace the one on the newton toy

I'll be doing a few of my own decals/graphics, custom apron cards, and 3D printed mods over time after the pin arrives. Also, I'm hunting down the Stern amber shooter rod as well as being on a backorder list with my distributor. I'm sure I'll outfit the pin with Titan rings (haven't decided on colors yet), trees, dino figures, etc. I'm on the fence with the fluorescent plastic protectors, but I have them on my AFMr and they look great - just not sure if that's the look I want on JP. Oh, and I've never done any lighting mods for Stern, but custom illuminated flipper buttons are on my DIY list.

#6909 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

If only I could get off that easy. Here's what I'm already committed to besides the pin:
- Stern Topper
- Stern Shaker
- Backbox & Cabinet speakers
- Speaker Lights with 5.25" mounts
- Side Blades (Tilt Graphics)
- Cliffy Protectors + Carbon Fiber washer
- Pin Stadium Omega lights
- Safari Farms Nanny Goat with I will paint to look like the one in the movie
- JP Jeep to replace the one on the newton toy
I'll be doing a few of my own decals/graphics, custom apron cards, and 3D printed mods over time after the pin arrives. Also, I'm hunting down the Stern amber shooter rod as well as being on a backorder list with my distributor. I'm sure I'll outfit the pin with Titan rings (haven't decided on colors yet), trees, dino figures, etc. I'm on the fence with the fluorescent plastic protectors, but I have them on my AFMr and they look great - just not sure if that's the look I want on JP. Oh, and I've never done any lighting mods for Stern, but custom illuminated flipper buttons are on my DIY list.

Damn! Thats a list! May as well add a pinwoofer super kit on there to really make the game rock!

#6910 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

If only I could get off that easy. Here's what I'm already committed to besides the pin:
- Stern Topper
- Stern Shaker
- Backbox & Cabinet speakers
- Speaker Lights with 5.25" mounts
- Side Blades (Tilt Graphics)
- Cliffy Protectors + Carbon Fiber washer
- Pin Stadium Omega lights
- Safari Farms Nanny Goat with I will paint to look like the one in the movie
- JP Jeep to replace the one on the newton toy
I'll be doing a few of my own decals/graphics, custom apron cards, and 3D printed mods over time after the pin arrives. Also, I'm hunting down the Stern amber shooter rod as well as being on a backorder list with my distributor. I'm sure I'll outfit the pin with Titan rings (haven't decided on colors yet), trees, dino figures, etc. I'm on the fence with the fluorescent plastic protectors, but I have them on my AFMr and they look great - just not sure if that's the look I want on JP. Oh, and I've never done any lighting mods for Stern, but custom illuminated flipper buttons are on my DIY list.

But day-1, make sure the shooter lane is protected...

#6911 3 years ago

When you get your game take a ball and pass it by the tower lane over the left side screw, If you can feel the ball touch the screw even fractionally I suggest you remove the screw and grind it down until it doesn’t touch anymore. Makes a surprisingly huge difference in the smoothness of that shot.

#6912 3 years ago

It's an addiction of mine. Like many of us, these games stay in my home for years at a time, and I like putting my own personal touches on them. Of course, I always have to balance mods with budget. Fortunately, I'm able to sell all kinds of pinball mods I make for a variety of games and owners commission me on occasion for various pinball graphics and sound development. I put all of this money minus any expenses into my pinball fund, and use it to feed the monster.

I'm definitely down on the Cliffy's. I did the same thing when I acquired my AFMr LE. Even though I was the second owner, the came had like 35 plays on it or something. Man, that game is a beast - I think it took half a playfield teardown and literally 3-4 hours to get all of those Cliffy's installed.

#6913 3 years ago

Just bought a Papo Pteranodon for $10 (they make very nice figures). Link is here if anyone is interested: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GL1BHO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o00_s00

The goat I use for JP (made a few for DE JP owners) is also from Amazon. I paint on the black based upon the goat from the movie.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002GULG6Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pnggoat (resized).jpggoat (resized).jpg

IMG_4494 (resized).JPGIMG_4494 (resized).JPG
#6914 3 years ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

When you get your game take a ball and pass it by the tower lane over the left side screw, If you can feel the ball touch the screw even fractionally I suggest you remove the screw and grind it down until it doesn’t touch anymore. Makes a surprisingly huge difference in the smoothness of that shot.

Oh man! I get rejected from this shot all the time... Wonder if this is my issue? Can you tell me more about how you ground it down? Did you just sand some of the top off? That didn't impact your ability to get a screwdriver inserted?

#6915 3 years ago
Quoted from mcvetyty:

Oh man! I get rejected from this shot all the time... Wonder if this is my issue? Can you tell me more about how you ground it down? Did you just sand some of the top off? That didn't impact your ability to get a screwdriver inserted?

Personally, mine doesnt touch, but I've read here that people mark the outside edge of the screw with a sharpie, remove the screw, and grind it down just a hair. Put the screw back in, and test to see if the ball still hits. I've also seen some people post that they simply installed a flat head screw in place of the original. Pull the glass and see if the ball even touches before going crazy with the screw. Upper flipper alignment is also pretty critical to making the shot.

#6916 3 years ago
Quoted from mcvetyty:

Oh man! I get rejected from this shot all the time... Wonder if this is my issue? Can you tell me more about how you ground it down? Did you just sand some of the top off? That didn't impact your ability to get a screwdriver inserted?

I taped the surrounding area with blue painters tape and ground the screw head down with a Dremel and a stone bit. Quick vacuum, peel tape, play - no screw removal necessary.

#6917 3 years ago

Don’t see why you would risk a dremel slip and tearing up your playfield, removing the screw is tricky but doesn’t require removing anything else from the playfield if you have the right tools and patience.

Just remove the screw and use a dremel or anything else to sand it down as much as you can while maintaining the integrity of the screw. If you mess it up you can always go to the hardware store and buy a new screw

My ball was just fractionally touching so I didn’t do this at first. I was never getting that many rejects but when I finally decided to fix the screw the shot became much smoother.

#6918 3 years ago
Quoted from mcvetyty:

Oh man! I get rejected from this shot all the time... Wonder if this is my issue? Can you tell me more about how you ground it down? Did you just sand some of the top off? That didn't impact your ability to get a screwdriver inserted?

Nah I took a dremel to it pretty aggressively. Just go slow and keep testing the groove with your screw driver.

I also practiced on a different screw before hand so I know what to expect.

#6919 3 years ago

For an easy screw "mod" add a couple dozen to your next parts order.
https://www.pinballlife.com/ramp-screw.html

#6920 3 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

For an easy screw "mod" add a couple dozen to your next parts order.
https://www.pinballlife.com/ramp-screw.html

Yes, flat heads seems much better here! A little baffling why Stern would use such a tall/rounded head screw in this placement and the helipad ramp, but one would like to think they have their reasons and know what they're doing...

#6921 3 years ago

I highly recommend this. I've used it many many times now.
https://www.pinballlife.com/big-bag-of-everything.html

BIG BAG OF EVERYTHING!

#6922 3 years ago

doesnt a flat head require a counter sunk hole?

#6923 3 years ago

The screw only holds down one side of the springsteel ramp entry flap. Remove it and affix the flap with a bit of mylar; problem solved.

#6924 3 years ago
Quoted from metallik:

The screw only holds down one side of the springsteel ramp entry flap. Remove it and affix the flap with a bit of mylar; problem solved.

Thanks for the suggestion. I just tried this on mine and now its super smooth! Previously I had a flat ramp screw which made it about 75% better than it was but with just mylar it's now 100% smooth.

#6925 3 years ago
Quoted from MikeS:

Thanks for the suggestion. I just tried this on mine and now its super smooth! Previously I had a flat ramp screw which made it about 75% better than it was but with just mylar it's now 100% smooth.

Well, how about that! Now I wish I had some mylar on hand. Can it be bought locally from any of the box stores? I'd like to try it on mine even though I think mine clears the screw.

#6926 3 years ago

I just removed the piece of spring steel and screws altogether, Shoots super smooth and I’m not sure I will put it back.

#6927 3 years ago
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:

Well, how about that! Now I wish I had some mylar on hand. Can it be bought locally from any of the box stores? I'd like to try it on mine even though I think mine clears the screw.

Pinball life sells sheets of it that you can cut to whatever size you want:

https://www.pinballlife.com/3-mil-clear-mylar-by-the-foot.html

#6928 3 years ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Pinball life sells sheets of it that you can cut to whatever size you want:
https://www.pinballlife.com/3-mil-clear-mylar-by-the-foot.html

I've heard they sell it at Michaels, but haven't ever checked.. Lots of interesting ideas here though - I wonder if some of these would also improve the plunger shot going up the helipad?

Also, something I was thinking about today.. Anyone know if Rick Naegele (the code developer for JP) is a user on here? I know he's likely busy polishing up the code for AIQ, but would like to ask if & when co-op is being added to JP.

#6929 3 years ago

Personally, I just use clear adhesive vinyl: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N1T6P4V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00

If you want to use the same, but don't want to buy a $20 roll, PM me and I'll send you a piece as large as a #10 envelope for $2 (or I'll even cut exact shapes required since I have a vinyl cutter).

I've used the PBL "Mylar" before, and it seems like similar material but it doesn't lay down as smoothly as what is in my link above (e.g. splotchy/foggy appearance comparatively).

#6930 3 years ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Pinball life sells sheets of it that you can cut to whatever size you want:
https://www.pinballlife.com/3-mil-clear-mylar-by-the-foot.html

Just ordered some along with a few other bits. Thanks for the tip!

#6931 3 years ago
Quoted from Indusguys:

I just removed the piece of spring steel and screws altogether, Shoots super smooth and I’m not sure I will put it back.

Wow! I just did this complete removal of the metal flap and put a small piece of adhesive vinyl where the flap use to be and it now shoots crazy smooth. In the first practice game after doing it I completed more tower shots than I ever have. After this fix, if the shot is on target, it goes up the ramp. No more rejects at all.

The only thing I am concerned about is if there might be potential for playfield damage with the metal flap gone? Does not really look like there would be, and I put down the vinyl just in case, but it makes me wonder why they would have put the steel flap there in the first place?

#6932 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Personally, I just use clear adhesive vinyl: amazon.com link »
If you want to use the same, but don't want to buy a $20 roll, PM me and I'll send you a piece as large as a #10 envelope for $2 (or I'll even cut exact shapes required since I have a vinyl cutter).
I've used the PBL "Mylar" before, and it seems like similar material but it doesn't lay down as smoothly as what is in my link above (e.g. splotchy/foggy appearance comparatively).

Bummer about your experience with it. It’s worked great for me. Clear as day and went on smooth in my JP2 shooter lane.

239F443A-688D-4FBD-ADA3-1A7F5B0F6E12 (resized).jpeg239F443A-688D-4FBD-ADA3-1A7F5B0F6E12 (resized).jpeg
#6933 3 years ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Bummer about your experience with it. It’s worked great for me. Clear as day and went on smooth in my JP2 shooter lane.
[quoted image]

You know what, now that I think about it what I used in the past was the Mylar from Marco’s (I order items from both companies on a regular basis). Sorry for my misstatement.

#6934 3 years ago

BTW, “Mylar” is a brand name for plastic laminate (like Kleenex is to tissue). Many times what is referred to as Mylar is clear vinyl or some other comparable material.

#6935 3 years ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

Don’t see why you would risk a dremel slip and tearing up your playfield, removing the screw is tricky but doesn’t require removing anything else from the playfield if you have the right tools and patience.
Just remove the screw and use a dremel or anything else to sand it down as much as you can while maintaining the integrity of the screw. If you mess it up you can always go to the hardware store and buy a new screw
My ball was just fractionally touching so I didn’t do this at first. I was never getting that many rejects but when I finally decided to fix the screw the shot became much smoother.

“Risk”... speak for yourself. I had no problems with it whatsoever. It was easier to leave the screw in place to make sure I removed enough of the screw-head as opposed to removing it, grinding it, screwing it back in, checking clearance, removing it, grinding it, screwing back in, checking clearance.... you got the idea.

To each their own. It’s a pinball machine.

#6936 3 years ago

Question. Does Anyone actually like the Topper goat mode? I know it’s probably not worth it and doesn’t add anything to the game. But, is it fun? Or just a waste all in all?

#6937 3 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

Question. Does Anyone actually like the Topper goat mode? I know it’s probably not worth it and doesn’t add anything to the game. But, is it fun? Or just a waste all in all?

Do you think anyone who bought it is going to say no?

#6938 3 years ago
Quoted from metallik:

The screw only holds down one side of the springsteel ramp entry flap. Remove it and affix the flap with a bit of mylar; problem solved.

Mod of the year!

I just did this. That screw is tough to get to, but I finagled it. 2 games in and shooting really nice. I was able to make the shot decently before, but early results are promising.

Which now has me thinking about the screws before the shooter lane u. Anyone pull them out?

#6939 3 years ago
Quoted from ectobar:

Mod of the year!
I just did this. That screw is tough to get to, but I finagled it. 2 games in and shooting really nice. I was able to make the shot decently before, but early results are promising.
Which now has me thinking about the screws before the shooter lane u. Anyone pull them out?

I dont think the ball makes any contact with the shooter lane screws.

#6940 3 years ago
Quoted from MikeS:

I dont think the ball makes any contact with the shooter lane screws.

It seems it is an issue with only some machines. My balls hit the screw some don’t

#6941 3 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

Question. Does Anyone actually like the Topper goat mode? I know it’s probably not worth it and doesn’t add anything to the game. But, is it fun? Or just a waste all in all?

I guess I don't like or dislike it, its a fun little add on.
I thought it was kind of a throw away at first but there is a little strategy to it.
It can be worth a respectable amount of points if played well.
I like the topper a lot with or without it but its a plus.
Its a nice topper IMO the goat mode doesn't make or break it.

#6942 3 years ago
Quoted from ectobar:

Do you think anyone who bought it is going to say no?

Couldn’t the same be said about pinball

#6943 3 years ago

When is Stern running more of the premiums? Seems like they are out of stock.

#6944 3 years ago
Quoted from bent98:

When is Stern running more of the premiums? Seems like they are out of stock.

Currently there is a run scheduled for 3rd week of October according to two distributors I spoke with. Others said they weren't receiving any more until Q1 2021.

#6945 3 years ago

Received my Papo Pteranodon today. The detail is superb!

IMG_4506 (resized).JPGIMG_4506 (resized).JPGIMG_4509 (resized).JPGIMG_4509 (resized).JPG
#6946 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Received my Papo Pteranodon today. The detail is superb!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Ii is, isnt it. I also bought a raptor from a company named Schleich. It's also amazingly detailed. Looks crazy good over my raptor pit.

20190831_181152 (resized).jpg20190831_181152 (resized).jpg20190831_182326 (resized).jpg20190831_182326 (resized).jpg
#6947 3 years ago

For those who have added illuminated flipper buttons, what brand/color did you choose?

#6948 3 years ago

My JP Pro has started to do strange things, such as
- randomly lights set trap targets without having to complete M-A-P and shoot rescue targets, sometimes just after launching ball
- Score builds continuously without making any shots (caught my brother trying to take credit for a 2bil score)
- Lots of random roar sounds
These symptoms are inconsistent and do not seem to happen every game.
The only technician alert I get is for switch 17 trough opto #4, and this alert comes and goes randomly. Can a defective trough opto really have such an impact on game play? If so, any advice for servicing the opto? Should I be looking elsewhere?
Also any recommendations for videos on how to conduct the switch test?

#6949 3 years ago
Quoted from Lounge:

“Risk”... speak for yourself. I had no problems with it whatsoever. It was easier to leave the screw in place to make sure I removed enough of the screw-head as opposed to removing it, grinding it, screwing it back in, checking clearance, removing it, grinding it, screwing back in, checking clearance.... you got the idea.
To each their own. It’s a pinball machine.

Yea 6-8k pinball machine... putting a dremel literally on the playfield at an awkward angle to avoid taking out a single screw is the most absurd thing I’ve ever heard. No offense.

#6950 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

For those who have added illuminated flipper buttons, what brand/color did you choose?

IMO don't do it. I had them on one game and they felt horrible. Mine were not smooth, felt like the hung up. Fool me once...

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