(Topic ID: 248582)

Jurassic Park (Stern 2019) Owners Club. Welcome! To Jurassic park.....

By Scribbles

2 years ago


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#6851 1 year ago
Quoted from Galvez1978:

Thank you for the reply, i have a maintenance company, and i repair industrials machines, i hope a pinball will be easier , i have tie-wraps and Loctite 242 i'll do the same that you said! Thank you so much.

I would recommend getting slightly longer screws for the 4 that hold the shaker down. The ones included with mine only secured by a few threads. Not long enough.

#6852 1 year ago

I accidentally bought two sets of plastic protectors, so I'm offering a bundle below for people who need these things. $60 + shipping. The Jeep mod is working good for me, just have to mount it to the plate over it's cg

1. Jada Jurassic world jeep, 1/43 scale nib. Plus two spacers and some screws to attach to the game
2. Florescent green plastic protectors (slings and inlanes)
3. Some (8 or so) tropical trees and museum putty

IMG_20200912_202415 (resized).jpgIMG_20200912_202451 (resized).jpgIMG_20200912_202523 (resized).jpg
#6853 1 year ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

Two things I suggest when you are ready to install the shaker motor:
1) get some nylon cable tie-wraps and tie the wiring to the existing wires that run from right to left behind the cash box. It will make the installation much cleaner and prevent any tugging on those cables accidently if you pull the cashbox out. I used 5 tie-wraps.
2) get some BLUE thread-lock liquid. Harbor Frieght sells both RED and BLUE for $2 a bottle. Get the BLUE and put a drop on each thread before you screw the four screws into the cabinet mounted T-Nuts. (Blue is the medium strength, semi-permanent type)
Note1: The Premium is pre-drilled and T-Nuts installed, but not very consistently. I would use a small hammer and tap each of the T-Nuts into the cabinet from underneath before you try and install the shaker motor screws from up top. The provided longer screws that go through the cabinet are 'just' long enough if the T-Nuts are tapped in properly.
Note2: The two self-threading hex cap screws that hold the plastic cover on will be a challenge to get installed, but they WILL work! The brackets are somewhat moveable with some pressure, so just stay at it and it will thread with enough energy applied! Get the first one in, and then push/tug/press the cover front to back to front to meet the second hold and press hard when it starts to line up!

Or that...

#6854 1 year ago

Question for those who did the jeep replacement mod. I received the new jeep in the mail today and have the old jeep taken apart, but how did you mount the jeep to the hardware? The bottom of the new jeep is very different than the stock jeep and it's not even flat..?

#6855 1 year ago
Quoted from mcvetyty:

Question for those who did the jeep replacement mod. I received the new jeep in the mail today and have the old jeep taken apart, but how did you mount the jeep to the hardware? The bottom of the new jeep is very different than the stock jeep and it's not even flat..?

I drilled holes in the bottom of the new Jeep that aligned with the screw positions for the mounting plate, and reused the existing screws to mount it, as I recall. I also had to trim some of the raised plastic off of the bottom of the new Jeep, in the back center portion where there is a large raised section. I took some flush trimmers to it, cut off enough to allow for clearance of the plate (to attach far enough back on the Jeep so the Jeep's grill wouldn't contact the corkscrew habitrail when spinning, as I wanted it facing away from the player), which might've been 1/8-1/4" or so, if memory serves.

I can disassemble and take pictures of mine, if you need some extra guidance

#6856 1 year ago
Quoted from zeldarioid:

I can disassemble and take pictures of mine, if you need some extra guidance

That would be very helpful to many of us if you could do so. Also, some good pics of install in different positions.

#6857 1 year ago

I got longer wood screws and small spacers. That way I didn't have to cut in to the jada plastic underside. I tried to find the cg of the Jeep and mount that over the rod assembly from the game.

#6858 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballTilt:

I tried to find the cg of the Jeep and mount that over the rod assembly from the game.

Good note.

#6859 1 year ago

Here are pictures of the process and result, with some details of the process for attaching the replacement Jada 1:43 scale Jeep.

1. Beneath the playfield, find this hex screw that is holding the shaft of the truck spinner in place. Using a 3/32nd size hex key, unscrew and slide this off, putting it somewhere safe.
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2. Note the two washers between the playfield and the truck; metal washer on bottom, nylon bearing washer on top. Don't lose these!
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3. I pre-drilled some holes in the bottom of my Jeep to make it easier to reuse the existing screws. I lined the mounting plate up to the bottom, stuck a 3/32nd drill bit through the holes to make some marks on the bottom of the Jeep, then drilled where I wanted to mount. You'll notice a few holes higher up, towards the front axle. I initially had the Jeep mounted there, but when I reinserted it into the playfield, found it made contact with the corkscrew habitrail return of the Pteranodon ramp, so I moved it back, which...
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4. In order to do so, I had to trim off 1/8-1/4" of the raised plastic portion in the back center of the Jeep. I used flush trimmers to make initial cuts, and then likely some pliers to rip the pieces off, cleaning up as necessary afterward. This enabled enough clearance for the screw on the opposite side of the mounting bracket so I could position the Jeep far enough back to clear the corkscrew habitrail. Note the gap between the raised plastic on the Jeep now and the screw on the mounting bracket, as well as how far back the end of the bracket is compared to the spare tire on the back of the Jeep.
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5. I highly recommend putting some hot glue in the doorjamb of either car door to seal them shut, otherwise they may open as you play the game, which could interfere the ramp and/or ball. Plus, it looks silly having the doors flung open hah.
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6. Note the distance now between the Jeep at various angles and the corkscrew return.
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#6860 1 year ago
Quoted from zeldarioid:

Here are pictures of the process and result; I'll see if I can edit the post to place text between images, and if not, I'll just write out some steps in a block here.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice step by step photos!!

#6861 1 year ago
Quoted from zeldarioid:

Here are pictures of the process and result, with some details of the process for attaching the replacement Jada 1:43 scale Jeep.
1. Beneath the playfield, find this hex screw that is holding the shaft of the truck spinner in place. Using a 3/32nd size hex key, unscrew and slide this off, putting it somewhere safe.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
2. Note the two washers between the playfield and the truck; metal washer on bottom, nylon bearing washer on top. Don't lose these!
[quoted image][quoted image]
3. I pre-drilled some holes in the bottom of my Jeep to make it easier to reuse the existing screws. I lined the mounting plate up to the bottom, stuck a 3/32nd drill bit through the holes to make some marks on the bottom of the Jeep, then drilled where I wanted to mount. You'll notice a few holes higher up, towards the front axle. I initially had the Jeep mounted there, but when I reinserted it into the playfield, found it made contact with the corkscrew habitrail return of the Pteranodon ramp, so I moved it back, which...
[quoted image]
4. In order to do so, I had to trim off 1/8-1/4" of the raised plastic portion in the back center of the Jeep. I used flush trimmers to make initial cuts, and then likely some pliers to rip the pieces off, cleaning up as necessary afterward. This enabled enough clearance for the screw on the opposite side of the mounting bracket so I could position the Jeep far enough back to clear the corkscrew habitrail. Note the gap between the raised plastic on the Jeep now and the screw on the mounting bracket, as well as how far back the end of the bracket is compared to the spare tire on the back of the Jeep.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
5. I highly recommend putting some hot glue in the doorjamb of either car door to seal them shut, otherwise they may open as you play the game, which could interfere the ramp and/or ball. Plus, it looks silly having the doors flung open hah.
[quoted image]
6. Note the distance now between the Jeep at various angles and the corkscrew return.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

NICE POST!!!! I am going to play with the mounting in your Step 4 a bit. While solid initially, I can't help but think that the jeep to bracket stability will change after 1000 whacks. Its metal to plastic which changes integrity over time. The main idea is to get the metal bracket in contact with the Jeep plastic underbody more, and reduce anything hanging in the air. To do so, I may try to drill another larger hole where the dark rod screw is in the center to allow the dark screw head to extend up into the jeep, allowing the bracket itself to sit 'more flush'. I may also look at add a few metal washers between the bracket and the body plastic to eliminate the remaining 'air' which is accurately called in the scenerio "wiggle room". Stay tuned...

#6862 1 year ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

I am going to play with the mounting in your Step 4 a bit. While solid initially, I can't help but think that the jeep to bracket stability will change after 1000 whacks. Its metal to plastic which changes integrity over time. The main idea is to get the metal bracket in contact with the Jeep plastic underbody more, and reduce anything hanging in the air. To do so, I may try to drill another larger hole where the dark rod screw is in the center to allow the dark screw head to extend into the jeep, allowing the bracket itself to sit 'more flush'. I may also look at add a few metal washers between the bracket and the body plastic to eliminate the remaining 'air' which is accurately called in the scenerio "wiggle room". Stay tuned...

I'm sure that will be more stable, for sure, though I haven't had any issues with mine since installing it like this over a month and hundreds upon hundreds of plays ago, so I'm not too concerned yet! You'll need to fully remove the big raised plastic portion over the back axle in order to sit the mounting bracket more flush, or instead maybe put some blocks to screw through between the mounting bracket and the bottom of the Jeep?

#6863 1 year ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

NICE POST!!!! I am going to play with the mounting in your Step 4 a bit. While solid initially, I can't help but think that the jeep to bracket stability will change after 1000 whacks. Its metal to plastic which changes integrity over time. The main idea is to get the metal bracket in contact with the Jeep plastic underbody more, and reduce anything hanging in the air. To do so, I may try to drill another larger hole where the dark rod screw is in the center to allow the dark screw head to extend up into the jeep, allowing the bracket itself to sit 'more flush'. I may also look at add a few metal washers between the bracket and the body plastic to eliminate the remaining 'air' which is accurately called in the scenerio "wiggle room". Stay tuned...

Possibly an application for a 3D printed custom spacer. Light, strong, and custom fit.

#6864 1 year ago
Quoted from zeldarioid:

I'm sure that will be more stable, for sure, though I haven't had any issues with mine since installing it like this over a month and hundreds upon hundreds of plays ago, so I'm not too concerned yet! You'll need to fully remove the big raised plastic portion over the back axle in order to sit the mounting bracket more flush, or instead maybe put some blocks to screw through between the mounting bracket and the bottom of the Jeep?

I am going to try some things this weekend. I will report back...

#6865 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Possibly an application for a 3D printed custom spacer. Light, strong, and custom fit.

I'm so confused guys, I literally posted a few posts up you can buy spacers. I got mine at home depot. I can post a picture of the bag for the spacers and screws tonight.

#6866 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballTilt:

I'm so confused guys, I literally posted a few posts up you can buy spacers. I got mine at home depot. I can post a picture of the bag for the spacers and screws tonight.

Spacers are of course a simple and valid option (and probably what I would do if do decide to purchase the game), but that doesn't feed the 3D design beast inside of me!

#6867 1 year ago

My favorite mod. $8 on Amazon. And then used a piece of a wire hanger to attach. Looks awesome!

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#6868 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

That would be very helpful to many of us if you could do so. Also, some good pics of install in different positions.

Did you end up going with the new JP to replace the old one?

#6869 1 year ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

Did you end up going with the new JP to replace the old one?

I just waved goodbye to my DE JP a few minutes ago. I'm going to sleep on things, then make my decision but JP Premium is where I'm definitely leaning.

JP (resized).jpg
#6870 1 year ago

Anyone else noticed the smarbersol and picture of keith when the computer background scene comes up? It's not everytime that you can see keith's picture. Pretty neat easter egg

#6871 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I just waved goodbye to my DE JP a few minutes ago. I'm going to sleep on things, then make my decision but JP Premium is where I'm definitely leaning.[quoted image]

Thats a beautiful Data East JP bud. The new JP premium is definitely a great game, hopefully you'll enjoy it even more than the old one.

#6872 1 year ago
Quoted from Scribbles:

Thats a beautiful Data East JP bud. The new JP premium is definitely a great game, hopefully you'll enjoy it even more than the old one.

Thanks, I put a lot of time, creativity, and money into it in order to realize my vision for that game (not to mention everything under the hood you can't see - https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/archive/102107 if anyone is interested). I think the caution theme lent itself well to the cabinet coloring and art, but not so much the new Sterns (I'll have a few tasteful caution tape touches here and there if I end up purchasing one).

Even though I loved looking at every time I went into the game room, I found myself no longer being drawn to play it. I'm still a relatively newbie when it comes to pinball, but I think I've learned that I prefer games that flow rather than start and stop so much. From all of the reviews I've read, this forum, and videos I've watch, the new JP has good flow even though it does still have some similar basic objectives. Having never owned a Stern, however, the ruleset appears to me to be extremely deep and non-linear. DE JP objectives are fairly basic and rigid (a product of its time, I'm sure).

In looking at all of the newer Sterns, I suffer from having overall theme near the top of my list. I know they are all probably pretty great games, but I'm not into cartoons, comics or super heroes, I love the Stranger Things theme but that game is too close to my AFMr layout in just a 3 pin collection, BK would be an option but I already own probably the best Steve Richie design ever - Getaway (not to mention I find the sound track on that game annoying), and I'm not really into ghoul (Munsters & Elvira). That basically leaves me Guardians, Star Wars, and Jurassic Park (I realize Guardians is comics, but it at least has the sci-fi theme which I love). Of those three, from all the videos and reviews I've read, I think that JP is the best choice for me - innovative, timeless theme, and the way that experienced pinball owners speak of it so gushingly must mean something.

#6873 1 year ago

Hey guys - I have been pretty off put by this game because the lack of theme integration from the movie, however the recent TMNT custom 1987 firmware gave me hope that maybe someone was working on integrating scenes from the movie into the pin? Is anything in the works?

#6874 1 year ago
Quoted from Taygeta:

Hey guys - I have been pretty off put by this game because the lack of theme integration from the movie, however the recent TMNT custom 1987 firmware gave me hope that maybe someone was working on integrating scenes from the movie into the pin? Is anything in the works?

Have you not seen this thread (applies to Premium and LE):
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-jurassic-park-2-custom-code-project

#6875 1 year ago

Browsing through a few pages that looks like it's just replacing the audio. Are they redoing the video as well?

#6876 1 year ago
Quoted from Taygeta:

Browsing through a few pages that looks like it's just replacing the audio. Are they redoing the video as well?

someone had posted video, yes. It was pretty amazing work. I can't find it now though

#6877 1 year ago
Quoted from Taygeta:

Browsing through a few pages that looks like it's just replacing the audio. Are they redoing the video as well?

Here you go

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-the-ultimate-code-w-movie-clips

#6878 1 year ago
Quoted from Taygeta:

Browsing through a few pages that looks like it's just replacing the audio. Are they redoing the video as well?

Yes, start at the end and work backwards.

#6879 1 year ago

Was thinking about this 6 months ago... and was hesitating on the 'free' escape nublar wizard mode
But when the the 'When Dinosours Ruled the Earth' wizard mode was added, I was totally convinced.

I just ordered myself a NIB pro (+ shaker). Should be delivered in EU in december (november run at Stern).

Can't wait

ps: does the t-rex sometimes roar on the pro after the game intro has ended like on the PRE/LE ?

#6880 1 year ago
Quoted from Taygeta:

Hey guys - I have been pretty off put by this game because the lack of theme integration from the movie, however the recent TMNT custom 1987 firmware gave me hope that maybe someone was working on integrating scenes from the movie into the pin? Is anything in the works?

As others have mentioned a custom firmware with video is available for the premium/le. I only have the pro but the audio project turns this into a brand new game, its incredible.

#6881 1 year ago
Quoted from DavidPinballWizz:

Was thinking about this 6 months ago... and was hesitating on the 'free' escape nublar wizard mode
But when the the 'When Dinosours Ruled the Earth' wizard mode was added, I was totally convinced.
I just ordered myself a NIB pro (+ shaker). Should be delivered in EU in december (november run at Stern).
Can't wait
ps: does the t-rex sometimes roar on the pro after the game intro has ended like on the PRE/LE ?

I think in the pro the T-Rex it's static.

#6882 1 year ago
Quoted from jandrea95:

As others have mentioned a custom firmware with video is available for the premium/le. I only have the pro but the audio project turns this into a brand new game, its incredible.

Are you saying there’s an audio package available for the pro? I was under the impression it was only for premium/Le owners. That’d be great if so!!

#6883 1 year ago
Quoted from Hop721:

Are you saying there’s an audio package available for the pro? I was under the impression it was only for premium/Le owners. That’d be great if so!!

Yes, the amazing audio package put together by Tim is available on all three - you must direct message him timlah79 to get it. The latest one that includes video clips from the movie is only Premium/LE.

Here's the thread for the audio project if you're interested in learning more:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-jurassic-park-2-custom-code-project

#6884 1 year ago
Quoted from Hop721:

Are you saying there’s an audio package available for the pro? I was under the impression it was only for premium/Le owners. That’d be great if so!!

Yes sir, the prior poster mentioned who to message. its incredible.

Read through the message he sends you, he links a very simply explanation of how to create the new SD-Card, and how to keep your old settings, high scores, etc.

#6885 1 year ago
Quoted from jandrea95:

Yes sir, the prior poster mentioned who to message. its incredible.
Read through the message he sends you, he links a very simply explanation of how to create the new SD-Card, and how to keep your old settings, high scores, etc.

Quoted from mcvetyty:

Yes, the amazing audio package put together by Tim is available on all three - you must direct message him timlah79 to get it. The latest one that includes video clips from the movie is only Premium/LE.
Here's the thread for the audio project if you're interested in learning more:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-jurassic-park-2-custom-code-project

Awesome! Thank you! I was really bummed thinking it was unavailable for the pro.

#6886 1 year ago

Pro vs premium. Let’s hear it. I believe the two differences is the T-Rex doesn’t move back and forth, and something about the raptor pit. Can someone elaborate on that difference?

I always felt the premium was the way to go on this title until I read what dontpanicflip had to say about it and I respect his opinion due to his great streams. So wanted to get some more thoughts. Thanks!

#6887 1 year ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

Pro vs premium. Let’s hear it. I believe the two differences is the T-Rex doesn’t move back and forth, and something about the raptor pit. Can someone elaborate on that difference?
I always felt the premium was the way to go on this title until I read what dontpanicflip had to say about it and I respect his opinion due to his great streams. So wanted to get some more thoughts. Thanks!

Various differences have been discussed a bunch on these threads, but along with the pit and trex, don't forget the helicopter on the right side.

#6888 1 year ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

Various differences have been discussed a bunch on these threads, but along with the pit and trex, don't forget the helicopter on the right side.

That helicopter is very forgettable

#6889 1 year ago

For those who have installed Pin Stadium lighting did you just adhere the mag strip on top of your blade art? I guess there's not really any other option unless you went with the currently backordered Hover Kit (but then again, I read somewhere those weren't compatible with the Omega's).

Also, do most think Omega is the way to go? I don't really see myself using any of the colors except white anyway. Of course, I must have the UV flashers - those are awesome on my AFMr.

#6890 1 year ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

Pro vs premium. Let’s hear it. I believe the two differences is the T-Rex doesn’t move back and forth, and something about the raptor pit. Can someone elaborate on that difference?
I always felt the premium was the way to go on this title until I read what dontpanicflip had to say about it and I respect his opinion due to his great streams. So wanted to get some more thoughts. Thanks!

The 3 reasons I went for the Premium were:
1. The T-Rex toy is really cool and adds to the ambiance.-but doesn't really add or subtract to the gameplay. I guess it could be a negative to gameplay if your T-Rex has problems catching the ball. Luckily mine has been good in that regard.

2. The Raptor pit is more fun to shoot and Raptor MB is more fun and lucrative because you can lock a ball in the raptor pit (behind the raised gate) for 2X jackpots which isn't possible on the Pro. You can also play Dirty pool for jackpots.

3. I vastly prefer the Premium cabinet and translite art to the Pro and also prefer the cab art over the LE. It feels like the purest JP artwork because of the Raptors in the kitchen scene.

From a gameplay perspective alone, the Pro is great and really isn't missing much from the Premium. The biggest difference is Raptor MB, but beyond that it's mostly the same. It is fun to shoot the ball into the T-Rex's mouth on the Premium for Super Jackpots (on the Pro you just shoot the ramp) but that's mostly aesthetics. The horizontal helicopter spinner is the other change between the Pro and Premium but I would say that is pretty minor. I do like the sound effect but it's not a must-have feature.

I think If I hadn't played a Premium and just a Pro I'd be totally happy owning a Pro as it's a fantastic game, but I'm happy I decided to go Premium on this one.

Here is the part of the rulesheet that differs between Pro and Premium (from tiltforums)

Raptor Tri-Ball 2x Scoring (PREMIUM / LE ONLY): On the Premium / LE models, hitting all three targets in the Raptor Pen and then making the center lane will temporarily lock a ball and double all Jackpots collected for 15 seconds. Hitting the captive ball will reset the 15 second timer.
http://tiltforums.com/t/stern-jurassic-park-rulesheet/5644

#6891 1 year ago

Well I have a Avengers IQ Prem on order....and am now considering swapping to JP....reading a ton on this thread.....

#6892 1 year ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

Well I have a Avengers IQ Prem on order....and am now considering swapping to JP....reading a ton on this thread.....

Interesting as that’s exactly what I did

#6893 1 year ago
Quoted from dimthedaylights:

Interesting as that’s exactly what I did

Did you order a Prem? Whats lead time...?

#6894 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

For those who have installed Pin Stadium lighting did you just adhere the mag strip on top of your blade art? I guess there's not really any other option unless you went with the currently backordered Hover Kit (but then again, I read somewhere those weren't compatible with the Omega's).
Also, do most think Omega is the way to go? I don't really see myself using any of the colors except white anyway. Of course, I must have the UV flashers - those are awesome on my AFMr.

I have the Omegas installed on my LE. Yes you stick it over the art blades and as you correctly stated the hovers are not compatible with the Omegas. It's really the only option for me as I thoroughly despise colored GI, unless it was designed that way (such a WOZ), and even in my WOZ I also added Omegas.

I hooked up the UV flasher to the control room flasher or raptor pit I can't remember.

There's also the option of just adding a few spotlights for a lot less money. I do like the Pinstadiums(white only!) despite their high cost.

#6895 1 year ago

Premium got it in a week. For me the premium was the way to go. I’m usually a pro guy but the art and extra features to me were worth it in this case. The t rex while a gimmick and not really a gameplay add, is so freaking cool and gets me and people who play it so excited

#6896 1 year ago
Quoted from MikeS:

The 3 reasons I went for the Premium were:
1. The T-Rex toy is really cool and adds to the ambiance.-but doesn't really add or subtract to the gameplay. I guess it could be a negative to gameplay if your T-Rex has problems catching the ball. Luckily mine has been good in that regard.

You could say the same about a lot of toys like the exploding castle on MM or exploding saucer on AFM. The fact that they move when they blow up doesn't add to gameplay. they could be just static and it would be the same game play but it just wouldn't be the same now would it?

I find a lot of Pro owners downplay the significance of the Trex but it's a pretty awesome toy, especially when it just throws the ball anywhere (as long as you don't disable that feature in the settings lol). Therefore it DOES affect gameplay as it interacts directly with the ball and inserts an element of randomness.

As dimthedaylights stated above, it gets folks excited when they play.... VERY excited!!! lol

#6897 1 year ago
Quoted from dimthedaylights:

Premium got it in a week. For me the premium was the way to go. I’m usually a pro guy but the art and extra features to me were worth it in this case. The t rex while a gimmick and not really a gameplay add, is so freaking cool and gets me and people who play it so excited

I am waiting to hear back from my dist,.....

#6898 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

For those who have installed Pin Stadium lighting did you just adhere the mag strip on top of your blade art? I guess there's not really any other option unless you went with the currently backordered Hover Kit (but then again, I read somewhere those weren't compatible with the Omega's).
Also, do most think Omega is the way to go? I don't really see myself using any of the colors except white anyway. Of course, I must have the UV flashers - those are awesome on my AFMr.

I put mine over the art blades. One thing I would recommend though regardless. Use some adhesion promoter on the wood or art blade where you will be sticking the magnetic strip. I've had bad luck with the magnetic strip wanting to come unstuck from the cabinet over time. The adhesion promoter will make it rock solid. Oh, and I hooked my UV light trigger wire to the flasher under the Trex ramp. That way, whenever a Trex mode is ready, the UV strobes as an indicator.

#6899 1 year ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

You could say the same about a lot of toys like the exploding castle on MM or exploding saucer on AFM. The fact that they move when they blow up doesn't add to gameplay. they could be just static and it would be the same game play but it just wouldn't be the same now would it?
I find a lot of Pro owners downplay the significance of the Trex but it's a pretty awesome toy, especially when it just throws the ball anywhere (as long as you don't disable that feature in the settings lol). Therefore it DOES affect gameplay as it interacts directly with the ball and inserts an element of randomness.
As dimthedaylights stated above, it gets folks excited when they play.... VERY excited!!! lol

Good points. Yes it does affect gameplay slightly, especially when it throws the ball randomly vs. Dropping on the wire form. I think it does up my enjoyment of the game just because of how interactive it is!

I think it would be comparable to a game like Funhouse, if they had a version with a static Rudy head. Gameplay would be mostly the same but the interactive Rudy makes a big difference in how you enjoy that game.

#6900 1 year ago

Sounds like Omega is the best choice, thanks for the input.

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