(Topic ID: 248582)

Jurassic Park (Stern 2019) Owners Club. Welcome! To Jurassic park.....

By Scribbles

2 years ago


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#6651 1 year ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

The LED bulb itself may be bad. Yes, I know it’s an LED, but it plugs into a standard bayonet bulb socket so it fair to call it a bulb. In any case, it could be bad.

All good, knew what you were meaning, was just having a laugh.

#6652 1 year ago
Quoted from flipper73:

made like you said. no mode started. i sent a message to stern. hope they can help me!

i had to install again my code. so everything is fine - the topper works as it should. unfortunately i lost my high scores

13
#6653 1 year ago

Another video with some new clips

#6654 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

Another video with some new clips

Oh man you got me, with the new code and all im in, cant wait for the release!

#6655 1 year ago
Quoted from finnflash:

I noticed a washer shoot across the playfield and see I'm missing a screw at the Trex ramp.
So I lift the playfield and find this screw in the cab. Can someone confirm this goes there? And if not where do they even use this type?
[quoted image][quoted image]

it should be a phillips head w/ washer & spacer identical to the setup on the left. mine falls out on a regular basis.

the bolt that you found is something else.

#6656 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

Another video with some new clips

So looking forward to more of this! Well done.

#6657 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

Another video with some new clips

Another reason why I'm buying one ASAP!

#6658 1 year ago
Quoted from sliprose:

I went about fixing my nonregistering T Rex ramp shots on my Pro. I looked into the opto sensor alignment and it seemed okay to me. It didn't seem like I could improve the alignment with a shim as another poster had mentioned. So, I switched the spacers & washers so the washers were between the two plastics and the spacer acts as the washer on the topside on the back covering of the ramp. This reduces the height of the top of the covering to make sure the ball doesn't jump over the sensor. I played quite a few games tonight and happy to report there were zero shots not registered on the T Rex ramp.
Thank you kingfishtr for giving me what appears to be the fix to this frustrating problem.

Thank you sliprose This fixed my issue, I played several games and all of my T-rex ramp shots registered 100% of the time.

#6659 1 year ago
Quoted from Jmxdc:

Thank you sliprose This fixed my issue, I played several games and all of my T-rex ramp shots registered 100% of the time.

So glad that this solution worked for you as well. It's been months now and I have not had any shots not register and it doesn't appear that reducing the height of the plastic in the back has contributed to any rejected shots. I believe this is the correct fix for the problem. It was so frustrating before when a perfect shot up the ramp didn't count - glad that's no longer an issue for the two of us!

#6660 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

Another video with some new clips

YES. PLEASE! Your TMNT audio package is so fun, and now this?! I was gonna say, you and Tim need to collaborate, and well, here we are in a way You’ve another fan eagerly awaiting the release of this code! Great work!

#6661 1 year ago

Just opened my JP Premium backbox to put Tim's 1.02v29 audio update card in, and while I was there, stopped to look at the pathetic undersized speakers. Really? 4-inch speakers with the smallest magnets you can buy for a 4-inch speaker. Really? Anyway, I get the LE uses a different bracket and 5-1/4 inch speakers, but I am thinking of just getting some pretty decent 4-inch speakers to swap in, without any big effort. The Kicker 43DSC40's seem to be a great choice. $50 for the pair and should have good performance in the mid and high-end of the speaker feed.

Anyone else played this low-cost upgrade game? I hate spending another $175 for a PBP or FF full speaker upgrade kit, but for $50 it would seem to be a good economy upgrade. (And I could get a much higher quality 6-1/2 inch woofer for $25 if I cared to)

Thoughts?

#6662 1 year ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

Just opened my JP Premium backbox to put Tim's 1.02v29 audio update card in, and while I was there, stopped to look at the pathetic undersized speakers. Really? 4-inch speakers with the smallest magnets you can buy for a 4-inch speaker. Really? Anyway, I get the LE uses a different bracket and 5-1/4 inch speakers, but I am thinking of just getting some pretty decent 4-inch speakers to swap in, without any big effort. The Kicker 43DSC40's seem to be a great choice. $50 for the pair and should have good performance in the mid and high-end of the speaker feed.
Anyone else played this low-cost upgrade game? I hate spending another $175 for a PBP or FF full speaker upgrade kit, but for $50 it would seem to be a good economy upgrade. (And I could get a much higher quality 6-1/2 inch woofer for $25 if I cared to)
Thoughts?

from my experience, an external sub is the way to go here, big improvement! from there you can upgrade your two backbox speakers like you said, from reading the forum there is no big difference from 4 to 5 1-/4 speakers, but since i want to add the LE speaker light kit ill upgrade to 5 1/4 speakers, those lights doesn't look as cheap as the standard one!

here are the adapters with the light kit:
http://www.speakerlightkits.com/5.25-SPIKE-2-Speaker-Plates.html

#6663 1 year ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

Just opened my JP Premium backbox to put Tim's 1.02v29 audio update card in, and while I was there, stopped to look at the pathetic undersized speakers. Really? 4-inch speakers with the smallest magnets you can buy for a 4-inch speaker. Really? Anyway, I get the LE uses a different bracket and 5-1/4 inch speakers, but I am thinking of just getting some pretty decent 4-inch speakers to swap in, without any big effort. The Kicker 43DSC40's seem to be a great choice. $50 for the pair and should have good performance in the mid and high-end of the speaker feed.
Anyone else played this low-cost upgrade game? I hate spending another $175 for a PBP or FF full speaker upgrade kit, but for $50 it would seem to be a good economy upgrade. (And I could get a much higher quality 6-1/2 inch woofer for $25 if I cared to)
Thoughts?

Did you not like the sound or do you feel the need to upgrade based on what you saw?

#6664 1 year ago

Pinwoofer super kit all the way. Heres the stock speakers vs. Pinwoofer, plus you get a plug and play amplifier with separate controls for sub volume, backbox volume, sub frequency, and treble.

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#6665 1 year ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

Did you not like the sound or do you feel the need to upgrade based on what you saw?

Both.

Based on what I saw and heard, it would be enough to consider a change. The backbox speakers they chose are $3 in bulk. Their sound has a shallow mechanical feel to it, and in operation they sound muddy in the mid-range and are missing the clarity of the upper half of the sound. They simply don't move the volume of air that is needed for an immersive experience.

Disclaimer #1: I used to work in a music recording studio and can tell you with each subsequent generation of studio monitor (not the amp, but the monitor speaker) they got heavier, more expensive and noticeably the entire range of tones became richer.

Disclaimer #2: Everybody hears differently. The stated opinion is MY opinion, and your experience may not reflect that of mine.

#6666 1 year ago

+1 for PinWoofer. You can just get a back box kit if you already have an external sub, otherwise get the super kit. Not necessarily an economy upgrade, but you get what you pay for.

#6667 1 year ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

Just opened my JP Premium backbox to put Tim's 1.02v29 audio update card in, and while I was there, stopped to look at the pathetic undersized speakers. Really? 4-inch speakers with the smallest magnets you can buy for a 4-inch speaker. Really? Anyway, I get the LE uses a different bracket and 5-1/4 inch speakers, but I am thinking of just getting some pretty decent 4-inch speakers to swap in, without any big effort. The Kicker 43DSC40's seem to be a great choice. $50 for the pair and should have good performance in the mid and high-end of the speaker feed.
Anyone else played this low-cost upgrade game? I hate spending another $175 for a PBP or FF full speaker upgrade kit, but for $50 it would seem to be a good economy upgrade. (And I could get a much higher quality 6-1/2 inch woofer for $25 if I cared to)
Thoughts?

I went for Dougs 5.25" kit @speakerlightkits.com
He offered the brackets and the deluxe light kit for a cheap cost and then he has the different colored rings to go around the speakers which I believe were no more than $15 for the pair. My 5.25" speakers that I purchased were the same as Stern uses for their LE machines and I paid under $30 shipped on ebay! I had a small two channel amp that I've had from an old vehicles front four speakers that I no longer use and I'm going to be using that once I get around to it but for now the machine sounds much bettee than it was with the original 4" units.

13
#6668 1 year ago

Got my game delivered and set up today!

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#6669 1 year ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Got my game delivered and set up today!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Welcome to the club! This game is an absolute blast!

#6670 1 year ago
Quoted from Jmxdc:

Just had a Premium Delivered end of June and finally getting some good games in.. and fixing a few issues here are there.
Delivery guy had a shaker motor on the truck so win win, I got to add a shaker motor same day it was delivered.
Then I started to notice some issues that were driving me nuts. I had to add a washer on the left shoot lane first screw. That fixed shots not going up the half pipe every time, I was close to 50% now, I am at about 95%. There was more to it though, like leveling not just front to back but side to side. . I also lowered the Auto ball kick out to 170. I had to bend the tong out on the left side of the shooter a little so that side made contact with the ball at the same time as the right. Now the only think I am missing is my orange spring to replace the green spring it shipped with for the manual shoot rod.
So for the first month I was running stock 1.0 software and I decided to go through the update. I had no issues with the T-Rex before. But after the update, sure enough when he went to drop on the ramp he moved to the left too far and didn't make it all the way down. Of course this was my highest score game and I hit the bottom of the jaw and drained right out, back on topic. So I went to settings and adjusted the T-Rex center -4 and that fixed it for me. He drops in the center and all is well again.
The more I read up on this forum I found some other issues I didn't know I had. So my left ramp will not register the first skill shot if I shoot it too fast and other shots up that ramp if they are too fast. So I slowed down the right flipper to 215 from default and that has helped a little. but I still get a few here and there. I am looking at the sensor in the back and it looks lined up correctly so I will continue to try and figure out the better solution.
Then tonight, I see and hear a black screw drop and slide strait down the center. It landed in the coin box so it was easy to find. I searched the whole machine looking for where this came loose from. nothing, it looked like a black screw on some of the plastic areas. so i put everything back together and fired up another game then the jaw fell off my T-Rex. So now I lift up the play field and look for the other two screws that are also supposed to be in there to hold the jaw on. Sure enough I found them below plus 2 washers and a silver screw. Using a screw driver bit I was able to manually put the 3 screws back in the jaw. T-Rex is good eating balls like normal. However for the life of me I can't figure out where this silver screw and 2 washers came from.
This is my first NIB machines so It kinda bummed I had to so to much to get it working so well. I do enjoy it so at least I have that going for me. Here is a nice picture of the jaw that fell off and the illusive screw that I can't figure out where it goes. So if anyone has any ideas let em know where I should look.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Found the location of that screw and washer set. The post next to the raptor is only secured to the plastic so that's why I couldn't see it clearly from above.

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#6671 1 year ago
Quoted from zeldarioid:

Welcome to the club! This game is an absolute blast!

I've played the pro many times on location, but haven't played the Prem as much. The T-Rex is awesome! Definitely adds a different dynamic and interaction with the the game. Also the raptor pit adds another element of danger that isnt there on the pro. Its definitely a great game!

#6672 1 year ago

My balls have suddenly started to get stuck in the helicopter blades. It seems like the ball lifts the blades. I've checked the top screw and it's snug. Suggestions?

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#6673 1 year ago

Just tried to install the Stern Topper and nothing happens - I plugged into another new Stern pinball and it lights right up... so something must be wrong with the Jurassic Park pinball itself - any ideas?

#6674 1 year ago
Quoted from scooterd:

Just tried to install the Stern Topper and nothing happens - I plugged into another new Stern pinball and it lights right up... so something must be wrong with the Jurassic Park pinball itself - any ideas?

did you plug the cat5 cable into the board and the power cable into the power supply? Once plugged in, the game loads code onto the node boards telling the game that the topper is attached and the topper lights up. That's how mine went (was similar to other stern topper installs).

#6675 1 year ago

Just got my game, was very excited as I didn't have any plunger/auto plunge issues with my game. Installed the amber shooter rod, and now my plunges/auto plunges are failing over all over the place.

Adjusted my ramp, added a washer, removed a washer, nothing seemed to fix the issue. (My game was an August build, it doesn't need the washer. Even though it "looks" a little off, using your finger you can check the alignment of the ramp, washer actually made mine worse.

Happened to look at how the plunger sits on the ball, and its off center by a lot! Shouldn't matter for the auto plunge right? Well the ball sits back on the plunger for a split second during auto plunge, and if its off, it will mess up the auto plunger.

I haven't tried to fix my plunger alignment yet, going to tackle that tomorrow, but just an FYI, check your leveling, and then check your plunger tip to make sure its centered to the ball!

#6676 1 year ago
Quoted from tyson171:

Just got my game, was very excited as I didn't have any plunger/auto plunge issues with my game. Installed the amber shooter rod, and now my plunges/auto plunges are failing over all over the place.
Adjusted my ramp, added a washer, removed a washer, nothing seemed to fix the issue. (My game was an August build, it doesn't need the washer. Even though it "looks" a little off, using your finger you can check the alignment of the ramp, washer actually made mine worse.
Happened to look at how the plunger sits on the ball, and its off center by a lot! Shouldn't matter for the auto plunge right? Well the ball sits back on the plunger for a split second during auto plunge, and if its off, it will mess up the auto plunger.
I haven't tried to fix my plunger alignment yet, going to tackle that tomorrow, but just an FYI, check your leveling, and then check your plunger tip to make sure its centered to the ball!

Yeah, I'd go back and double/triple check everything you did during your shooter rod install. I'd also inspect the shooter rod itself very carefully. Compare every inch of it to the original you took off. If your game plunged great before the install and now plunges like crap, something is wrong.

#6677 1 year ago
Quoted from JayLar:

My balls have suddenly started to get stuck in the helicopter blades.

That sounds painful

There's a couple of things that can go wrong - the helicopter blades can touch the wireform, so just check that the blades spin freely without touching anything, the other issue people have found is under the PF where the shaft can rub on the plate - check out https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/69#post-5339641

Let us know how you get on

#6678 1 year ago
Quoted from tyson171:

Just got my game, was very excited as I didn't have any plunger/auto plunge issues with my game. Installed the amber shooter rod, and now my plunges/auto plunges are failing over all over the place.
Adjusted my ramp, added a washer, removed a washer, nothing seemed to fix the issue. (My game was an August build, it doesn't need the washer. Even though it "looks" a little off, using your finger you can check the alignment of the ramp, washer actually made mine worse.
Happened to look at how the plunger sits on the ball, and its off center by a lot! Shouldn't matter for the auto plunge right? Well the ball sits back on the plunger for a split second during auto plunge, and if its off, it will mess up the auto plunger.
I haven't tried to fix my plunger alignment yet, going to tackle that tomorrow, but just an FYI, check your leveling, and then check your plunger tip to make sure its centered to the ball!

I have noticed the same thing after installing my Stern lighted Amber shooter rod. I haven’t taken the time to investigate yet (been too busy getting destroyed by the new TMNT), but interesting to hear it’s not an isolated issue!

#6679 1 year ago
Quoted from Scribbles:

Yeah, I'd go back and double/triple check everything you did during your shooter rod install. I'd also inspect the shooter rod itself very carefully. Compare every inch of it to the original you took off. If your game plunged great before the install and now plunges like crap, something is wrong.

It’s definitely the alignment of the stern shooter rod. There is no room for error when installing the new mounting plate, which is required for the new wiring harness.
D32BB38D-1BC5-4F99-B913-32B14C53715E (resized).jpeg

Should be an easy fix, just need to move the mounting plate over a little bit.

#6680 1 year ago
Quoted from tyson171:

It’s definitely the alignment of the stern shooter rod. There is no room for error when installing the new mounting plate, which is required for the new wiring harness.
[quoted image]
Should be an easy fix, just need to move the mounting plate over a little bit.

Indeed, there it is. That plunger is way off center. Hopefully an easy fix

#6681 1 year ago

Anyone rocking a custom translite?

#6682 1 year ago
Quoted from Manny65:

That sounds painful
There's a couple of things that can go wrong - the helicopter blades can touch the wireform, so just check that the blades spin freely without touching anything, the other issue people have found is under the PF where the shaft can rub on the plate - check out https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/69#post-5339641
Let us know how you get on

Thanks a million! Seems that was exactly the problem. Did relieve a lot of pain

#6683 1 year ago
Quoted from Scribbles:

Indeed, there it is. That plunger is way off center. Hopefully an easy fix

Plunger alignment is a bit of an art and requires some patience to go through the steps. Anytime you touch the shooter mounting, you run the risk of mis-alignment. The cabinet wood cutout allows quite a range of placements of the final plate. Having done this a few times, I usually mark the cabinet very carefully with blue painters tape on the cabinet surface at all four edges BEFORE I remove the mounting plate as provided from factory. That tape then guides the re-install back to the exact same place. (I had twice this fun when I replaced both shooters on a Funhouse last year, with it's right and left shooters)

That said, If you have already created a mis-alignment, simply put the plate back in and tighten screws partially to allow you to move the plate by hand with some pressure, but tight enough to stay where you leave it. Align the plunger with the ball visually when the playfield is lowered in place. Try to get it dead-on center. Then raise the playfield and tighten the screws into the plate.

#6684 1 year ago
Quoted from fisherdaman:

Anyone rocking a custom translite?

Like...a goat? Lol

Screenshot_20200903-103415~2 (resized).png
#6685 1 year ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

mark the cabinet very carefully with blue painters tape on the cabinet surface at all four edges BEFORE I remove the mounting plate as provided from factory.

Excellent idea

#6686 1 year ago

Unboxed my pro yesterday build date (Aug 24 2020). Great game so far, no issues, put about 20 games on it.

#6687 1 year ago
Quoted from JayLar:

My balls have suddenly started to get stuck in the helicopter blades. It seems like the ball lifts the blades. I've checked the top screw and it's snug. Suggestions? [quoted image]

Mine got stuck alot without balls trapped under it. The end of the metal was getting stuck in the board under the playfield. Changing position of the board slightly solved it for me.

Quoted from fisherdaman:

Anyone rocking a custom translite?

Yeah a friend made one for me. Looks great lighted.
IMG_20200904_002246 (resized).jpg

#6688 1 year ago

First for me jammed up under the truck.

20200903_193906 (resized).jpg
#6689 1 year ago
Quoted from Saddath:

Mine got stuck alot without balls trapped under it. The end of the metal was getting stuck in the board under the playfield. Changing position of the board slightly solved it for me.
[quoted image]

Most alt translites look terrible but that one is not too shabby!

Quoted from JonCBrand:

First for me jammed up under the truck.
[quoted image]

That has only happened to me once on my game, but I think it was a known issue on early runs.

#6690 1 year ago

I was sick of the clean shot to the tower ramp rejects (yeah the ones that come out to the top or to the right of the right sling), to the point that the game felt clunky and I hadn't been playing it much.

Tonight I finally got around to filing the flap screw down like someone had previously suggested so the ball can't touch it and it made a HUGE difference.
Every single clean shot to the tower (at least 20 or 30 in a row) sailed right through smooth as butter!

On mine you could see where the ball had been hitting it, if you can't, just mark the inside edge before you remove it and file it away, i had to take a little off the top as well.
As long as you can still grab it with a #1 bit in there you are good.
Once you get it so the ball clears it completely I guarantee you will notice a difference.

That little detail has brought back the fun and flow of this game for me, just knowing that if I hit it clean it WILL go through and that shot feels so good when it does but is REALLY annoying when it doesn't.

#6691 1 year ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

So I was sick of the clean shot to the tower ramp rejects (yeah the ones that come out to the top or to the right of the right sling), to the point that the game felt clunky and I hadn't been playing it much.
Tonight I finally got around to filing the flap screw down like someone had previously suggested so the ball can't touch it and it made a HUGE difference.
Every single clean shot to the tower (at least 20 or 30 in a row) sailed right through smooth as butter!
On mine you could see where the ball had been hitting it, if you can't, just mark the inside edge before you remove it and file it away, i had to take a little off the top as well.
As long as you can still grab it with a #1 bit in there you are good.
Once you get it so the ball clears it completely I guarantee you will notice a difference.
That little detail has brought back the fun and flow of this game for me, just knowing that if I hit it clean it WILL go through and that shot feels so good when it does but is REALLY annoying when it doesn't.

After wrestling with filing, and losing the little bugger twice, I replaced with a small countersunk screw,
2 minutes, zero issues....100% better

#6692 1 year ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

After wrestling with filing, and losing the little bugger twice, I replaced with a small countersunk screw,
2 minutes, zero issues....100% better

That'll work too!
As long as the ball can't touch it, it'll be so much better.

#6693 1 year ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

I was sick of the clean shot to the tower ramp rejects (yeah the ones that come out to the top or to the right of the right sling), to the point that the game felt clunky and I hadn't been playing it much.
Tonight I finally got around to filing the flap screw down like someone had previously suggested so the ball can't touch it and it made a HUGE difference.
Every single clean shot to the tower (at least 20 or 30 in a row) sailed right through smooth as butter!
On mine you could see where the ball had been hitting it, if you can't, just mark the inside edge before you remove it and file it away, i had to take a little off the top as well.
As long as you can still grab it with a #1 bit in there you are good.
Once you get it so the ball clears it completely I guarantee you will notice a difference.
That little detail has brought back the fun and flow of this game for me, just knowing that if I hit it clean it WILL go through and that shot feels so good when it does but is REALLY annoying when it doesn't.

Yeah i changed the screw to one with a flatter head. It's so much better now. I can definately recommend to check it. Even if it touches just slightly it makes it extremely clunky.

#6694 1 year ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

I was sick of the clean shot to the tower ramp rejects (yeah the ones that come out to the top or to the right of the right sling), to the point that the game felt clunky and I hadn't been playing it much.
Tonight I finally got around to filing the flap screw down like someone had previously suggested so the ball can't touch it and it made a HUGE difference.
Every single clean shot to the tower (at least 20 or 30 in a row) sailed right through smooth as butter!
On mine you could see where the ball had been hitting it, if you can't, just mark the inside edge before you remove it and file it away, i had to take a little off the top as well.
As long as you can still grab it with a #1 bit in there you are good.
Once you get it so the ball clears it completely I guarantee you will notice a difference.
That little detail has brought back the fun and flow of this game for me, just knowing that if I hit it clean it WILL go through and that shot feels so good when it does but is REALLY annoying when it doesn't.

please, can you do a picture of the screw?

#6695 1 year ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

After wrestling with filing, and losing the little bugger twice, I replaced with a small countersunk screw,
2 minutes, zero issues....100% better

Where did you locate the screws? You have a link or size? I want to do this as well, because I didn't want to mess with filing and possibly messing up the original screws.

#6696 1 year ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

My thoughts: tinker with it to adjust the pitch and flipper power settings until you find a setup that you like for making the various shots. It doesn't matter what those pitch and flipper power settings are because every machine is sitting on a different floor surface and people's preferences will vary. It only matters that the shots are makable on your machine with a setup that you're happy with.

Mind sharing your flipper power settings and pitch? I know every game is different, just curious if your settings might be a better starting point? Also where on the play field do you measure pitch? Right above the slings? I tried multiple pitch measurements, and my pitch seems to raise as I go up the play field. 7.2 below the jeep, 6.8 near the lower flippers. Just curious where most pitch settings are taken.

Also for leveling, do you use an app, or level on the play field? I also noticed my auto plunge success rate changes drastically depending on how i have things leveled. My machine is on carpet, only my second machine, and this things seems super sensitive to pitch/level. I kind of just want to start over, and figure out the best way to get this game level/pitched.

Also not a very good player, lol so its hard to tune/adjust a game when 90% of it is my skill level.

#6697 1 year ago
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

Where did you locate the screws? You have a link or size? I want to do this as well, because I didn't want to mess with filing and possibly messing up the original screws.

Im sorry, I have jars of screws saved through the years. I went with a phillips, slightly smaller head.
It was shorter, and I tried it. It grabbed wood, tightened down like it belonged there, and sat flush.

It looks from the top the exact same size as the ones in the shooter lane fork, we are adjusting.

#6698 1 year ago

Another quick question, is there a pack of updated videos that can be used along with Tim's audio package? Just looking for some direction! Thanks in advance!

#6699 1 year ago
Quoted from tyson171:

Mind sharing your flipper power settings and pitch? I know every game is different, just curious if your settings might be a better starting point? Also where on the play field do you measure pitch? Right above the slings? I tried multiple pitch measurements, and my pitch seems to raise as I go up the play field. 7.2 below the jeep, 6.8 near the lower flippers. Just curious where most pitch settings are taken.
Also for leveling, do you use an app, or level on the play field? I also noticed my auto plunge success rate changes drastically depending on how i have things leveled. My machine is on carpet, only my second machine, and this things seems super sensitive to pitch/level. I kind of just want to start over, and figure out the best way to get this game level/pitched.
Also not a very good player, lol so its hard to tune/adjust a game when 90% of it is my skill level.

I use the PinGuy app on iPhone. I've landed at 6.8 on my JP2. On mine it's measuring the same 6.8 with the bottom of the phone resting between the flippers and also up by the truck. On my POTC it measures 6.5 by the flippers and 7.3 up by the chest lock. I'm guessing that's just a variance that can happen with a wood playfield sometimes.

I've been all over the place on flipper power from day 1. Early on I had to set a lot lower flipper power to be able to hit the shots, but then I realized the ball was hopping away from the face of the flipper as it transferred from the guide to both the upper flipper and left flipper. Adjusting those guides so the ball rolls smoothly down the face of the flippers made a huge difference and I needed to increase power again to make the shots.

So now I'm at 253 (left), 235 (right) and 233 (upper). I've had my pitch and power settings there for several months now and it's been pretty consistent for me. Now when the raptor tower & left orbit start to get clunky I know I need to re-adjust that guide above the upper flipper again, and then those shots return to being smoother. It took me about 6 or 7 months of tinkering with the pitch and power every couple weeks before I landed where I am now. Most shots would be consistent but one might be tough to get. Then I'd change it to dial in that shot and a different shot would get more difficult. It's definitely a process to find what settings work best for your machine, but you'll get it. And if it's like mine you'll know immediately when you finally find it. Suddenly it just seemed right for all the shots. It's a journey, but the destination is worth it!

#6700 1 year ago
Quoted from tyson171:

Another quick question, is there a pack of updated videos that can be used along with Tim's audio package? Just looking for some direction! Thanks in advance!

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