Jurassic Park (30th Anniversary LE)
Stern, 2023
Jurassic Park (Limited Edition)
Stern, 2019
Jurassic Park (Premium)
Stern, 2019
Jurassic Park (Pro)
Stern, 2019I have a quick question. I've been having an issue where the ball occasionally gets stuck on the hole for the control room up-post or for the raptor pit up-post. When I look at them, the up-post is about 1/2 a cm below the surface of the playfield, which essentially creates the hole for the ball to sometimes rest on. Is there an adjustment I can make to change this? Is there supposed to be space from the playfield down to the up-post or is it supposed to be flush?
Thanks
Quoted from pinballmlb:I have a quick question. I've been having an issue where the ball occasionally gets stuck on the hole for the control room up-post or for the raptor pit up-post. When I look at them, the up-post is about 1/2 a cm below the surface of the playfield, which essentially creates the hole for the ball to sometimes rest on. Is there an adjustment I can make to change this? Is there supposed to be space from the playfield down to the up-post or is it supposed to be flush?
Thanks
Should be flush, and if I'm not mistaken, it's a simple screw type adjustment under the playfield.
Quoted from pinballmlb:Thank you. I'll check when I get home tonight and report back.
Here's a link to an entry in the other forum on how to adjust the control room post, along with a picture of where it's done under the playfield.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/116#post-5763899
Quoted from dts:Are the newer playfields still showing pooling and chipping? I’m considering a Pre. I’ve lost track of the progress on this and thought I’d just ask here. Thanks for any input.
My NIB premium has no playfield issues, made June 5th 
Quoted from AJB4:joining the club again...
[quoted image]
Please, please, please give us some unboxing pics. I don't know why I enjoy watching them...but I guess it's the "kid at Christmas" syndrome thing going on.
Quoted from dts:Are the newer playfields still showing pooling and chipping? I’m considering a Pre. I’ve lost track of the progress on this and thought I’d just ask here. Thanks for any input.
July 21 build (pro) and no playfield issues. I would suggest you double check tightness of the posts, however. I’m not sure if stern is leaving them a little loose to avoid the clear coat problem, but I’ve had a couple loosen up a little over the last couple of weeks. Particularly the one in front of the 3rd flipper.
Quoted from Hop721:July 21 build (pro) and no playfield issues. I would suggest you double check tightness of the posts, however. I’m not sure if stern is leaving them a little loose to avoid the clear coat problem, but I’ve had a couple loosen up a little over the last couple of weeks. Particularly the one in front of the 3rd flipper.
I had the same 3rd flipper post loosen up after just a few games. That gave me the opportunity to find my Craftsman mechanics ignition wrench set which is just thin enough to slide under the flipper asseembly plate and hold the locknut which I tightened from above. I positioned the post dead-center into the graphic circle and installed a hard nylon washer between the post washer and the clearcoat surface. Seems to be fine now and I feel the clearcoat is somewhat protected from post damage.
Quoted from zeldarioid:My NIB premium has no playfield issues, made June 5th
My June 5th build has issues.
Quoted from seenev:My June 5th build has issues.
elaborate...
Quoted from mcvetyty:elaborate...
Extremely thin clear. Chipping in shooter lane after very little use. Ghosting on inserts. A few dents on the playfield that look like something was dropped on it. Pooling under guide rails. One part had this little gouge out of the box where the clear was turned up. Like it had been nicked by a screwdriver or something.
I know multiballmaniac1 reported similar issues with his June 5 build as well.
Quoted from dts:Sounds like a mixed bag. I wonder if older playfields were being used still in early June...
That is very possible! Throwing a couple old playfields in the mix to use them up. Making it look like less of a problem until they are all used up
Quoted from Green-Machine:That is very possible! Throwing a couple old playfields in the mix to use them up. Making it look like less of a problem until they are all used up
I think the date stamp on my playfield said March.
Quoted from seenev:Extremely thin clear. Chipping in shooter lane after very little use. Ghosting on inserts. A few dents on the playfield that look like something was dropped on it. Pooling under guide rails. One part had this little gouge out of the box where the clear was turned up. Like it had been nicked by a screwdriver or something.
I know multiballmaniac1 reported similar issues with his June 5 build as well.
holy sh*t ! hope you're joking !? but quite sure you're not 
Quoted from MikeS:I own a Premium and agree that Raptor is easier to start on Prem/LE than the Pro. Premium also has the advantage of "Raptor bombs." When you get a get a captive ball behind the gate 1 hit away from starting Raptor MB save it until the ball is close to draining and give it a good nudge to start MB and extend your ball. Also the 2X Raptor scoring really makes that MB more fun on the Premium than the Pro.
I have played on a Pro where the Raptor pit was very exploitable though. You need to make sure the sling switches are set sensitive or else you can back hand that shot and catch it on the left flipper all day. The slings on my Premium just seem way more sensitive and powerful than Pro's I have played on route, but maybe that's because my game isn't fully broken in yet.-it's only a month old.
Related to this post, I think my slings are actually over-sensitive. So the question is, how do you make finite adjustments to the sensitivity? Often times during a mode or Escape Nublar Challenge, the ball will get into the slings and it seems like 5-10 valuable seconds are lost while they are doing their back and forth thing. Often when I have two balls trapped and try to do an up and over separation, the slings will fire. Has anyone else experienced this?
Quoted from ElkGrovePinball:Related to this post, I think my slings are actually over-sensitive. So the question is, how do you make finite adjustments to the sensitivity? Often times during a mode or Escape Nublar Challenge, the ball will get into the slings and it seems like 5-10 valuable seconds are lost while they are doing their back and forth thing. Often when I have two balls trapped and try to do an up and over separation, the slings will fire. Has anyone else experienced this?
I believe the slings are triggered by leaf switches. Press on on your sling, and you will see where there is contact being made between the two “leaves” on each switch that are on either side of center. To make that sling less sensitive, you’ll want to increase the gap between the leaves in their resting position. There is a special tool for this, but it can be done without it.
I’ve found that small adjustments can make a big difference in sensitivity.
Mine are also pretty sensitive, but I’m guessing that was how they were intended by design, but I could be wrong in that.
Quoted from ElkGrovePinball:Related to this post, I think my slings are actually over-sensitive. So the question is, how do you make finite adjustments to the sensitivity? Often times during a mode or Escape Nublar Challenge, the ball will get into the slings and it seems like 5-10 valuable seconds are lost while they are doing their back and forth thing. Often when I have two balls trapped and try to do an up and over separation, the slings will fire. Has anyone else experienced this?
Had the same problem on my Pro. You can bend the leaf switches from the top of the playfield, there are 2 per slingshot.
Quoted from Audiofreak:Had the same problem on my Pro. You can bend the leaf switches from the top of the playfield, there are 2 per slingshot.
But try to be very careful with the leaf switch contacts. Usually bending closer to the mounting block is best as it take very little to make the adjustments at that point.
Anyone with a LE want to do me a favor and scan a copy of there apron plastic for me? I've converted my premium and I want that extra LE plastic to make it look complete (other than the metal badge of course) don't want to go that far but it would be nicw to have a plastic with the designers name on it that says limited edition. My machine has all the extras and then some from the LE but I'd love to make a scan of the plastic into my own LE Apron plastic. I understand many won't want to do this but maybe there is someone who's willing to see my point of view? Thanks to everyone in advanced.
Quoted from MUGEN_4_LIFE:Anyone with a LE want to do me a favor and scan a copy of there apron plastic for me? I've converted my premium and I want that extra LE plastic to make it look complete (other than the metal badge of course) don't want to go that far but it would be nicw to have a plastic with the designers name on it that says limited edition. My machine has all the extras and then some from the LE but I'd love to make a scan of the plastic into my own LE Apron plastic. I understand many won't want to do this but maybe there is someone who's willing to see my point of view? Thanks to everyone in advanced.
Imitating the powdercoat is easy but you’re saying you managed to get the LE sideblades and a real glass mirrored backglass too? Well done you!..
Didn’t think that was possible.
Quoted from MUGEN_4_LIFE:Anyone with a LE want to do me a favor and scan a copy of there apron plastic for me? I've converted my premium and I want that extra LE plastic to make it look complete (other than the metal badge of course) don't want to go that far but it would be nicw to have a plastic with the designers name on it that says limited edition. My machine has all the extras and then some from the LE but I'd love to make a scan of the plastic into my own LE Apron plastic. I understand many won't want to do this but maybe there is someone who's willing to see my point of view? Thanks to everyone in advanced.
Sounds like a lot of work (cabinet decals, blades, trim, backglass, speakers ...) - wouldn't it have just been easier to buy an LE, or are they hard to come by in the US?
The art blades I used are these, from retro refurbs... IMO better than the stern blades, they have the original Jeep instead of the new GMC (GOMEZ MOTOR CO)
The Back glass is being made for me by a local vinyl graphics installer and hes used my Premium backglass and his rendering looks AMAZING!
20200830_192730 (resized).jpgQuoted from Manny65:Sounds like a lot of work (cabinet decals, blades, trim, backglass, speakers ...) - wouldn't it have just been easier to buy an LE, or are they hard to come by in the US?
I was more interested in the premium art package, its not been hard at all... I guess I should have been more specific. My apologies.
Quoted from MUGEN_4_LIFE:I was more interested in the premium art package, its not been hard at all... I guess I should have been more specific. My apologies.
No apologies necessary. You modded the hell out of your premium. You didn't actually convert it to look like a LE, which was pretty much what you said in the first post....
Quoted from MrMikeman:No apologies necessary. You modded the hell out of your premium. You didn't actually convert it to look like a LE, which was pretty much what you said in the first post....
CORRECT! It's an LE in my eyes... I put the LE speakers, HD glass, yellow speaker surrounds, side blades, shaker, Doug's premium speaker light kit, Stern JP shooter setup, a custom mirrored premium backglass (yet to go in) Robert Stones Green sparkle powder coat, all the mezel products, along with other odds and ends.... Just wanted to see if a fellow owner who loves to make their machine limited like mine would mind helping me finish my game up right. That's all.
Quoted from MUGEN_4_LIFE:CORRECT! It's an LE in my eyes... I put the LE speakers, HD glass, yellow speaker surrounds, side blades, shaker, Doug's premium speaker light kit, Stern JP shooter setup, a custom mirrored premium backglass (yet to go in) Robert Stones Green sparkle powder coat, all the mezel products, along with other odds and ends.... Just wanted to see if a fellow owner who loves to make their machine limited like mine would mind helping me finish my game up right. That's all.
You could easily scan the one you have and photoshop the hand symbol out and insert whatever text you want. Limited Edition, Special Edition, Cretaceous Edition, etc.. Be creative! 
Instead of "game designer" have "game modder" or something similar and put your own autograph there! 
Quoted from MrMikeman:You could easily scan the one you have and photoshop the hand symbol out and insert whatever text you want. Limited Edition, Special Edition, Cretaceous Edition, etc.. Be creative!
Instead of "game designer" have "game modder" or something similar and put your own autograph there!
That's actually a cool idea - nice one!
Quoted from delt31:video clips custom code up and running!!!
Wow!!!
Quoted from delt31:video clips custom code up and running!!!
That looks pretty awesome!
Quoted from delt31:video clips custom code up and running!!!
Wow amazing!!! Are you releasing the file?
Quoted from Pinballpal:[quoted image]
My flasher behind the helipad sign does not work can somebody tell me if it is wired correctly.
Looks correct (matches my working one). Maybe swap lamps with the other flasher to see if it’s a lamp? Then go from there
Quoted from Hop721:Looks correct (matches my working one).
Thanks for the reply. I was hoping it was just wired wrong. I wonder why it does not work?
Quoted from Pinballpal:Thanks for the reply. I was hoping it was just wired wrong. I wonder why it does not work?
Bulb good?
Quoted from Markharris2000:Bulb good?
I am going to try a new one. That would be great if that all it was.
Quoted from Manny65:Sorry a what??
The LED bulb itself may be bad. Yes, I know it’s an LED, but it plugs into a standard bayonet bulb socket so it fair to call it a bulb. In any case, it could be bad.
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