(Topic ID: 248582)

Jurassic Park (Stern 2019 & 30th) Owners Club. Welcome! To Jurassic park.....

By CoolCatPinball

4 years ago


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#6351 3 years ago

Amber shooter rod from Stern is installed, and can confirm: Much happier with it installed and lit up Plus, the lights pulse (at least while in attract mode; haven't started up a game just yet), which is a nice effect!

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#6352 3 years ago
Quoted from gorditas:

I'm replacing factory rubber with Titans today. When removing one adjacent to the 2x scoring target, I noticed it was cut. "I'll have to stretch it to keep from cutting the new one myself." Nope. Factory results.
Short of grinding the corner, has anyone had any luck? The original never broke, maybe this will last a while too.
[quoted image]

I made a very gentle bend on the ball guide. This also helped with feeds from there going to the flippers instead of the slings.

#6353 3 years ago
Quoted from zeldarioid:

Amber shooter rod from Stern is installed, and can confirm: Much happier with it installed and lit up Plus, the lights pulse (at least while in attract mode; haven't started up a game just yet), which is a nice effect!
[quoted image][quoted image]

How'd you get one? I've been checking their site for months...

#6354 3 years ago

I have the modfather shooter rod on order...

Does anyone have the light kit part of the shooter rod made up yet?

#6355 3 years ago
Quoted from mavantix:

How'd you get one? I've been checking their site for months...

I ordered it at the same time as my JP Premium through my distributor back in May. JP Prem arrived July 7th, shooter just arrived today.

#6356 3 years ago
Quoted from Lounge:

Nope - I took a dremel and notched and chamfered the ball guide so that it didn’t tear up my rubber. It’s not as bad as it sounds.

This 100%

#6357 3 years ago
Quoted from DudeRegular:

I made a very gentle bend on the ball guide. This also helped with feeds from there going to the flippers instead of the slings.

Or this works also

#6358 3 years ago
Quoted from Jeffswack:

I have the modfather shooter rod on order...
Does anyone have the light kit part of the shooter rod made up yet?

Go back one page. I asked, and someone was kind enough to post photos.

#6359 3 years ago
Quoted from zeldarioid:

Amber shooter rod from Stern is installed, and can confirm: Much happier with it installed and lit up Plus, the lights pulse (at least while in attract mode; haven't started up a game just yet), which is a nice effect!
[quoted image][quoted image]

When did you buy this?I've Been looking forever, I was going to mod my shooter plate this weekend.... may not if I can find an original available sometime soon??

#6360 3 years ago
Quoted from MUGEN_4_LIFE:

When did you buy this?I've Been looking forever, I was going to mod my shooter plate this weekend.... may not if I can find an original available sometime soon??

Someone already ask - see his below post

Quoted from zeldarioid:

I ordered it at the same time as my JP Premium through my distributor back in May. JP Prem arrived July 7th, shooter just arrived today.

#6361 3 years ago
Quoted from Jeffswack:

I have the modfather shooter rod on order...

Me too. I am on pins and needles.

#6362 3 years ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Someone already ask - see his below post

Thank you!

#6363 3 years ago
Quoted from Manny65:

The screw holds the opto bracket (black plastic) and ramp protector (metal bracket) in place. The screws can sometimes strip the hole in the plastic opto bracket - you can buy replacement opto brackets ... a temporary fix can be to partially fill the hole with slither of a match stick (etc) such that the screw can grip it

The screw flew out again, but the crazy thing is that I can't find it now. I replaced it with a similar screw that I had that fits better. I'm wondering now if Stern used the wrong size screw at the factory.

Should I be worried about a screw being somewhere in the machine? I don't want to tear it apart looking for it, but I spent a good 20 minutes trying to find it before giving up. My guess is it's under a plastic somewhere. I just hope it doesn't fall on something and cause a short.

#6364 3 years ago
Quoted from Hop721:

Yes! I keep forgetting about that!
This is the first game I’ve ever owned with an action button and I am still getting used to it. Thank you for the reminder!

Don't forget you can manipulate the dinos path, most dinos will travel to the closest lit rescue.
Also wait for a nice spot for the dino with your Helipad shot, take care- the dino will travel faster for one step when you hit the helipad, so better shoot it one step earlier. Also do not collect all rescues, just as much as needed then catch the dino and collect the rescues afterwards, better for streaks, capturing the dino and perfect paddock. Of course its much more rewarding when you can hit any shot and do not have to avoid anything

#6365 3 years ago
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:

Don't forget you can manipulate the dinos path, most dinos will travel to the closest lit rescue.
Also wait for a nice spot for the dino with your Helipad shot, take care- the dino will travel faster for one step when you hit the helipad, so better shoot it one step earlier. Also do not collect all rescues, just as much as needed then catch the dino and collect the rescues afterwards, better for streaks, capturing the dino and perfect paddock. Of course its much more rewarding when you can hit any shot and do not have to avoid anything.

#6366 3 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

- topper letters start goat mania
I believe this is the setting that must be on for the letters to work. The 3rd setting should be an adjustment for the number of flips you have in goat mania. If the 2nd adjustment is set to on and it still isn't working I would:
- Take glass off, start a 4 player game and manually collect 12 dino's successfully. Since you've already played some games you may not need 12 if you have collected some dino's already. Doing this should progress through the topper letters and light the mode. If the mode lights (supply drop target flashes) and you hit that switch and it starts you know the game recognizes the topper and it's a problem with the light board. If doing this it still doesn't light and start the mode it's a issue with the topper not communicating with the game (assuming you plugged it all in correctly).
- Knowing the above you can then contact Stern and have a more educated conversation with them about what is happening as you already did some basic testing and have the results.

made like you said. no mode started. i sent a message to stern. hope they can help me!

#6367 3 years ago
Quoted from seenev:

The screw flew out again, but the crazy thing is that I can't find it now. I replaced it with a similar screw that I had that fits better. I'm wondering now if Stern used the wrong size screw at the factory.
Should I be worried about a screw being somewhere in the machine? I don't want to tear it apart looking for it, but I spent a good 20 minutes trying to find it before giving up. My guess is it's under a plastic somewhere. I just hope it doesn't fall on something and cause a short.

It's not great to lose a screw but it does happen, sometimes when lifting the PF they'll end up rattling out and falling into the bottom of the cabinet (so worth checking there), other times you'll be playing and see a screw rolling down the PF (stop playing immediately and retrieve the screw, else you risk damaging the PF). Just keep an eye out for it and also listen out when you are raising/lowering the PF.

#6368 3 years ago
Quoted from zeldarioid:

I just got my Prem on July 7th, and did the exact same thing: Didn't stop playing or modding, emphasis on the modding. The mods are *almost* done now, the last remaining (currently known, who knows what inspiration the future may bring) item being the amber shooter rod, which I ordered through my distro with the machine, and it hasn't come in yet (still).
I just made the switch to the proper JP Jeep Wrangler recently, and got confirmation from another user on this site who made the swap and posted pics to confirm which model (thanks again, sergeant !), and this is the one that works perfectly: amazon.com link » ebay.com link
You may need to adjust where you screw the truck to the bracket once or twice to make sure you have clearance with the right ramp's corkscrew rail, but otherwise, it's fantastic! 1:43 scale is perfect, otherwise, I just wish I could've found a number 10 Wrangler for this truck (the one from the T-Rex chase scene w/ Malcolm in the back), but I could only find 1:64 scale :/ Number 12 will do, though! Additionally, you may want to hot glue the doors shut. I only ended up thinking to do that after the mechanism was already back in the machine, and then just hot glued with it in, but it would've been much easier to do while the Jeep was still out (and probably before attaching to the rod, too).
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I've been trying to install this same Jeep, but not having much success. I mounted it at the same position yours is, but it just doesn't smoothly rotate. It has enough friction that it will stop and not go all the way to one side like it always did before. Any ideas?

#6369 3 years ago
Quoted from flashburn:

I've been trying to install this same Jeep, but not having much success. I mounted it at the same position yours is, but it just doesn't smoothly rotate. It has enough friction that it will stop and not go all the way to one side like it always did before. Any ideas?

Do you have the plastic washer sandwiched between the two metal ones? With the playfield up, is the pointer rubbing on the opto sensor?

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#6370 3 years ago
Quoted from gorditas:

Do you have the plastic washer sandwiched between the two metal ones? With the playfield up, is the pointer rubbing on the opto sensor? [quoted image]

ROFL, whoops! Nope, I completely forgot about those washers. I even went back to the old truck just now and saw the same issue, so I was about to investigate further. Thanks man, that saved me a lot of stupid frustration.

#6371 3 years ago
Quoted from metallik:

Sometimes its better to use the supertranq before the dino gets to an employee...
Say you're trapped up on the left, the dino is at the center shot you've got an employee at the O shot and the dino is about to move to the right ramp. Hit the tranq now, freeze the dino in the middle (easy) shot, now make the helipad then middle to capture him immediately. If you miss the helipad shot you still have 20sec to recover and make the helipad->center combo for the capture. Easier IMHO than trying to capture at the r ramp or O shot.

Great strategy! Makes perfect sense. I feel like I can hit that spinner all day long but the A and O are iffy

#6372 3 years ago
Quoted from sliprose:

Do the outlane posts do anything in this game? A couple of months ago I lowered the outlane posts, hoping to cut down a bit on side drains, but I was just thinking that it really made little to no difference. It seems the common angles that feed the outlanes miss the posts regardless of position. Has anyone else noticed that moving the outlane posts doesn't change much?

Don’t think so. Tough outlanes, once it’s over there it seems to be gone regardless of the adjustable post position. The inside lane post is just too much higher than the outside one.

#6373 3 years ago

First pin, first mods! Took me a while to find the right sized Raptor and Pteradon that I was looking for, but pleased with how they came out.
Both were re-painted to match the colors on the playfield. I've also stuck some clear self adhesive domes on the Raptor cage lights for effect.

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#6374 3 years ago
Quoted from Andy_Chapman:

First pin, first mods! Took me a while to find the right sized Raptor and Pteradon that I was looking for, but pleased with how they came out.
Both were re-painted to match the colors on the playfield. I've also stuck some clear self adhesive domes on the Raptor cage lights for effect.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice job. Where did you get the pterdon

#6375 3 years ago

So, was watching a Buffalo Pinball stream last night, and noticed that when Kevin was post passing, it had significant power like all of my other modern Sterns have.

Now I realize there is definitely something off with my JP. When I post pass, it seems to hit the slingshot post hard, and then lose power getting over the the other flipper. The lack of power, doesn't allow the ball to hip up enough to catch it on the other side. It just barely gets to the tip of the right flipper, and you're forced then to flip the ball away, as catching is impossible.

Watch this at 0.25 speed to see what I'm talking about.

Does anyone know what could be causing this. I watched a few more stream today, and it's very clear that something is off here.

I've replaced both coil stops, so not sure what else to do?

#6376 3 years ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

So, was watching a Buffalo Pinball stream last night, and noticed that when Kevin was post passing, it had significant power like all of my other modern Sterns have.
Now I realize there is definitely something off with my JP. When I post pass, it seems to hit the slingshot post hard, and then lose power getting over the the other flipper. The lack of power, doesn't allow the ball to hip up enough to catch it on the other side. It just barely gets to the tip of the right flipper, and you're forced then to flip the ball away, as catching is impossible.
Watch this at 0.25 speed to see what I'm talking about.

Does anyone know what could be causing this. I watched a few more stream today, and it's very clear that something is off here.
I've replaced both coil stops, so not sure what else to do?

Try to swap your flipper rubber back just to see if it as any different.

#6377 3 years ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

So, was watching a Buffalo Pinball stream last night, and noticed that when Kevin was post passing, it had significant power like all of my other modern Sterns have.
Now I realize there is definitely something off with my JP. When I post pass, it seems to hit the slingshot post hard, and then lose power getting over the the other flipper. The lack of power, doesn't allow the ball to hip up enough to catch it on the other side. It just barely gets to the tip of the right flipper, and you're forced then to flip the ball away, as catching is impossible.
Watch this at 0.25 speed to see what I'm talking about.

Does anyone know what could be causing this. I watched a few more stream today, and it's very clear that something is off here.
I've replaced both coil stops, so not sure what else to do?

Have you lowered flipper power from default? I haven’t. (JPLE also).

Also i find that the flipper pass timing on JP is different than my W/B games. Delay your flip a fraction of a second more. I also changed flipper rubbers because the red ones were creating a lot of red debris. I got perfectplay rubbers. Shiny and green lol.

On my game left to right works ok. Right to left is so-so.

#6378 3 years ago
Quoted from Andy_Chapman:

First pin, first mods! Took me a while to find the right sized Raptor and Pteradon that I was looking for, but pleased with how they came out.
Both were re-painted to match the colors on the playfield. I've also stuck some clear self adhesive domes on the Raptor cage lights for effect.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Great idea with the clear domes! I’d like to do that on mine. Where’d you get them, if you don’t mind my asking?

#6379 3 years ago

Ok, without going back over 128 pages of comments to try and find an answer.
I've had JP Prem. for a little over a week and have put in over 100 plays. I noticed today that the 3rd flipper post is spinning freely (more or less). It doesn't really "wiggle" but it does spin. When I lifted the PF to try and tighten it, I found that the 3rd flipper assembly would need to be completely removed to tighten. Am I missing something? I had read here that this was a problem for early JPs but didn't expect it over a year into production. Should I be worried about the post being able to spin? Or is it only a playfield damaging concern if it wiggles?
2nd issue: My T-Rex has almost completely stopped eating the ball. The opto seems to work fine as the T-Rex roars every time it enters the mouth. But it's like it closes it's jaw a split second too late. Is there a fix for this?? Thanks in advance!

#6380 3 years ago
Quoted from Kronnix:

Ok, without going back over 128 pages of comments to try and find an answer.
I've had JP Prem. for a little over a week and have put in over 100 plays. I noticed today that the 3rd flipper post is spinning freely (more or less). It doesn't really "wiggle" but it does spin. When I lifted the PF to try and tighten it, I found that the 3rd flipper assembly would need to be completely removed to tighten. Am I missing something? I had read here that this was a problem for early JPs but didn't expect it over a year into production. Should I be worried about the post being able to spin? Or is it only a playfield damaging concern if it wiggles?
2nd issue: My T-Rex has almost completely stopped eating the ball. It's like it closes it's jaw a split second too late. Is there a fix for this?? Thanks in advance!

Post: stick a flat screwdriver underneath and hold it against the nut and tighten the post.

Trex: the jaw has nothing to do with holding the ball. It’s the magnet that holds it. Test your magnet in coil test.

#6381 3 years ago
Quoted from DudeRegular:

Try to swap your flipper rubber back just to see if it as any different.

Quoted from MrMikeman:

Have you lowered flipper power from default? I haven’t. (JPLE also).
Also i find that the flipper pass timing on JP is different than my W/B games. Delay your flip a fraction of a second more. I also changed flipper rubbers because the red ones were creating a lot of red debris. I got perfectplay rubbers. Shiny and green lol.
On my game left to right works ok. Right to left is so-so.

Red rubber was even worse. Black improved, but barely. I probably get it across to the right 30% of the time enough to actually catch it.

Rest of the time, it's just a weak-ass pass that I have to immediately flip or it's a drain.

What could be causing this? Anyone?

I'm considering rebuilding the entire flipper, which is insane for a brand new LE game.

#6382 3 years ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Red rubber was even worse. Black improved, but barely. I probably get it across to the right 30% of the time enough to actually catch it.
Rest of the time, it's just a weak-ass pass that I have to immediately flip or it's a drain.
What could be causing this? Anyone?
I'm considering rebuilding the entire flipper, which is insane for a brand new LE game.

I feel like my left flipper reed needed adjustment. It engaged with the slightest depression of the button, which also means that contact isn't broken unless you completely remove your finger. This might be happening to you as well, and since the contact is never fully open, you are only getting the hold section of the flipper coil, and thus a seemingly weak flipper.

#6383 3 years ago
Quoted from gorditas:

I feel like my left flipper reed needed adjustment. It engaged with the slightest depression of the button, which also means that contact isn't broken unless you completely remove your finger. This might be happening to you as well, and since the contact is never fully open, you are only getting the hold section of the flipper coil, and thus a seemingly weak flipper.

So you widened the space of the EOS switch, or the flipper button switch?

#6384 3 years ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Red rubber was even worse. Black improved, but barely. I probably get it across to the right 30% of the time enough to actually catch it.
Rest of the time, it's just a weak-ass pass that I have to immediately flip or it's a drain.
What could be causing this? Anyone?
I'm considering rebuilding the entire flipper, which is insane for a brand new LE game.

Like MrMikeman stated, I think the timing is just different on this game. On mine one side passes easier than the other but with some timing changes I can pass both ways.

#6385 3 years ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

So you widened the space of the EOS switch, or the flipper button switch?

Flipper button. Check to see how far you have to push the button to engage. If it closes too quickly, there isn't any nuance on the button.

#6386 3 years ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Red rubber was even worse. Black improved, but barely. I probably get it across to the right 30% of the time enough to actually catch it.
Rest of the time, it's just a weak-ass pass that I have to immediately flip or it's a drain.
What could be causing this? Anyone?
I'm considering rebuilding the entire flipper, which is insane for a brand new LE game.

you can try loosening the bottom sling post and push it in one direction when tightening it again, the same with the inlane metal guide.
i think in your case the problem is the angle of the ball hitting the sling post. a little can make much difference.

#6387 3 years ago

Well, I played Ninja Turtles pro today along side JP pro. As stated, Turtles has great flow, animations, art and light show all good and it's fun etc.. But no way I'd get it over JP. To me, JP has far more interesting shots and is more fun to shoot. Also, I like the theme far better. So now I know what my next game is going to be if I get another one this year. Elwin FTW!

#6388 3 years ago
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:

you can try loosening the bottom sling post and push it in one direction when tightening it again, the same with the inlane metal guide.
i think in your case the problem is the angle of the ball hitting the sling post. a little can make much difference.

Interesting thought. I'm going to look at where that post is compared to my Maiden.

#6389 3 years ago

Second T-Rex mode, mine is only catching the ball about 33% of the time when I hit the ramp and when he misses, it’s often SDTM. The first T-Rex mode (multiball) doesn’t have to catch so it starts fine 100% when I hit the ramp (sometimes catches, sometimes doesn’t).

So is this standard behavior or should it catch every time I hit the ramp in the 2nd and 3rd modes?

Maybe his head position is not properly calibrated? I feel like when he does catch it it’s when I hit the right side of the ramp.

Thanks!

#6390 3 years ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

Second T-Rex mode, mine is only catching the ball about 33% of the time when I hit the ramp and when he misses, it’s often SDTM. The first T-Rex mode (multiball) doesn’t have to catch so it starts fine 100% when I hit the ramp (sometimes catches, sometimes doesn’t).
So is this standard behavior or should it catch every time I hit the ramp in the 2nd and 3rd modes?
Maybe his head position is not properly calibrated? I feel like when he does catch it it’s when I hit the right side of the ramp.
Thanks!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/71#post-5347963

#6391 3 years ago

Has anyone’s Jeep Newton ball stopped swinging around freely causing the Newton action to not work. Notice some small pieces of the flipper bushing at the base of Jeep Newton ball mechanism on playfield. Now it gets hung up a little. Not as free swinging. Makes it harder to complete TREX. Any ideas?

Thanks
44F48654-7916-4CFC-8291-50017EA6FC63 (resized).jpeg44F48654-7916-4CFC-8291-50017EA6FC63 (resized).jpeg

#6392 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

Well, I played Ninja Turtles pro today along side JP pro. As stated, Turtles has great flow, animations, art and light show all good and it's fun etc.. But no way I'd get it over JP. To me, JP has far more interesting shots and is more fun to shoot. Also, I like the theme far better. So now I know what my next game is going to be if I get another one this year. Elwin FTW!

You sound like me! I was dead set on TMNT - I actually like the theme even better. Have spent some time lately that has TMNT and JP and been playing them both. After a few sessions, I'm leaning more towards JP and think that's what I'm getting next.

#6393 3 years ago
Quoted from Kronnix:

Ok, without going back over 128 pages of comments to try and find an answer.
I've had JP Prem. for a little over a week and have put in over 100 plays. I noticed today that the 3rd flipper post is spinning freely (more or less). It doesn't really "wiggle" but it does spin. When I lifted the PF to try and tighten it, I found that the 3rd flipper assembly would need to be completely removed to tighten. Am I missing something? I had read here that this was a problem for early JPs but didn't expect it over a year into production. Should I be worried about the post being able to spin? Or is it only a playfield damaging concern if it wiggles?
2nd issue: My T-Rex has almost completely stopped eating the ball. The opto seems to work fine as the T-Rex roars every time it enters the mouth. But it's like it closes it's jaw a split second too late. Is there a fix for this?? Thanks in advance!

That third flipper post is crazy hard to work on, but I found a mechanics open ended standard ignition set of mini wrenches works great. Mine was a Craftsman set (part number 9-44778), but with Sears gone, you will have to find a similar set on Amazon. Those wrenches are thin enough to just slide under the flipper assembly to hold the locknut while you tighten from above (playfield raised). In addition, I added a hard nylon washer (about 14mm diam, .8mm thick) to that post, between the playfield surface and the flat steel washer Stern supplied. I then tightened it up while centering it in the playfield graphic circle.. Took some patience but you really WANT to spend this time as you will damage your playfield if you let that post spin and wiggle and do any movement at all.

#6394 3 years ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

So you widened the space of the EOS switch, or the flipper button switch?

Both the cabinet button and the EOS switch are quite easy to access, check and adjust if needed. They are both physical switches. The cabinet is an opto switch and you can confirm that it is working properly with the playfield raised. Compare the travel distance between your left and right buttons. They should be nearly identical. When you push the button, the interrupter plastic starts moving and after 1/8 inch or so, opens the space between the sender and receiver LEDs enough to detect the intention. If somehow the interrupter is already partially open without pressing the button at all, then it is take a sneeze to open the path the rest of the way.

And the EOS switch is similar in that you can visually see the EOS contacts and confirm that they actuate at the VERY END of the bat travelling. Again, relatively easy to adjust if needed and you can compare left to right while looking underneath the playfield.

There are other variables potentially (coil issues, power setting issues), but you should eliminate these two easy diagnostics to help solve your problem.

#6395 3 years ago
Quoted from Multiballmaniac1:

Has anyone’s Jeep Newton ball stopped swinging around freely causing the Newton action to not work. Notice some small pieces of the flipper bushing at the base of Jeep Newton ball mechanism on playfield. Now it gets hung up a little. Not as free swinging. Makes it harder to complete TREX. Any ideas?
Thanks
[quoted image]

It’s all in the “Key Posts” guys - top of the page.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/106#post-5683784

#6396 3 years ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

So, was watching a Buffalo Pinball stream last night, and noticed that when Kevin was post passing, it had significant power like all of my other modern Sterns have.
Now I realize there is definitely something off with my JP. When I post pass, it seems to hit the slingshot post hard, and then lose power getting over the the other flipper. The lack of power, doesn't allow the ball to hip up enough to catch it on the other side. It just barely gets to the tip of the right flipper, and you're forced then to flip the ball away, as catching is impossible.
Watch this at 0.25 speed to see what I'm talking about.

Does anyone know what could be causing this. I watched a few more stream today, and it's very clear that something is off here.
I've replaced both coil stops, so not sure what else to do?

Can't speak for all your post pass but the one in your video was not the fault of your flippers. It was improperly timed for a post pass. The ball hit the left side of the star post in that video which threw it more up the left lane loosing all it's momentum. For the post pass to work properly the ball needs to hit just slightly to the right of that post center point. Your ball took the yellow path I made below. It needs to take the blue path.

Post up a video of the ball in a cradle shooting the spinner and right ramp. Seeing that will tell if the flipper is lacking power or not. One other thing to look for if you hit the timing right and it still doesn't work. Make sure that post is tight without the tension of the rubber. If it's loose it will absorb a lot of ball momentum.
JP (resized).jpgJP (resized).jpg

#6397 3 years ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

Second T-Rex mode, mine is only catching the ball about 33% of the time when I hit the ramp and when he misses, it’s often SDTM. The first T-Rex mode (multiball) doesn’t have to catch so it starts fine 100% when I hit the ramp (sometimes catches, sometimes doesn’t).
So is this standard behavior or should it catch every time I hit the ramp in the 2nd and 3rd modes?
Maybe his head position is not properly calibrated? I feel like when he does catch it it’s when I hit the right side of the ramp.
Thanks!

I think my Trex works pretty well but it still doesn't catch the ball every time. I don't think there's anything I can do to adjust it to make it better. It's just that the ball won't hit it perfectly everytime and it's going to miss sometimes. I just think of the mouth as a narrower ramp shot.

#6398 3 years ago

Does anyone else have issues with the T rex sometimes getting stuck and shakes over and over? Is this a software thing more than likely?

#6399 3 years ago

on my premium. The left side light under the apron isnt working. Its not a bulb but an led on a tiny board. Any ideas

#6400 3 years ago
Quoted from Jeffswack:

on my premium. The left side light under the apron isnt working. Its not a bulb but an led on a tiny board. Any ideas

Check to see if you are getting 5V (I believe that is what the GI is on this game) to it. If so, replace the board as it's gone bad (pretty uncommon). If not getting 5V then look for the break in the line as it could have gotten damaged at some point.

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