(Topic ID: 248582)

Jurassic Park (Stern 2019 & 30th) Owners Club. Welcome! To Jurassic park.....

By CoolCatPinball

4 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 21,290 posts
  • 1,409 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 24 minutes ago by TORQUENDB
  • Topic is favorited by 765 Pinsiders

You

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

PXL_20240419_132957235.jpg
PXL_20240419_220243332.jpg
PXL_20240419_132948477.jpg
PXL_20240419_132932956.jpg
IMG_4992 (resized).jpeg
thumbnail_image5 (resized).jpg
thumbnail_image0 (resized).jpg
thumbnail_image1 (resized).jpg
20240416_213856 (resized).jpg
IMG_6976 (resized).jpeg
IMG_6988 (resized).jpeg
IMG_6987 (resized).jpeg
IMG_6985 (resized).jpeg
IMG_6984 (resized).jpeg
IMG_6982 (resized).jpeg
IMG_6983 (resized).jpeg

Topic index (key posts)

17 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 21,290 posts in this topic. You are on page 119 of 426.
#5901 3 years ago
Quoted from Mutt:

that's a cup holder, not a playfield mod

Oh I did think this was a playfield mod!

#5902 3 years ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

It's from the balls, mine looks like that too in just the right light/angle.
A tiny nick in a ball over a few hundred plays will do that to this super thin clearcoat.
This game chews up balls, I'll be replacing them every couple hundred plays from now on.
I've already put three or four new sets in.
Not sure if it is from the contact with that tower screw or the top of the raptor gate, maybe the end of the "c" guide if that target gets pushed left enough?
It really bothered me when I first noticed but you can't see it from playing position, might try to buff it at some point.

That is strange, I've had mine going for a couple thousand games and they look brand new, no pitting. There is most definitely some contact being made somewhere

#5903 3 years ago

Agreed the circular lines indicate a buffing wheel, not sure Stern would have done that, most likely the previous owner tryingt o get it ready for sale but incorrectly applying cut and polish

#5904 3 years ago

I feel like I hear "Novus 2 is abrasive. Be careful!" a lot. While true, I think people are overly concerned. It's not as abrasive as a metal ball flying all over the playfield. Still... You shouldn't need to use it often.

#5905 3 years ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

That is strange, I've had mine going for a couple thousand games and they look brand new, no pitting. There is most definitely some contact being made somewhere

So did mine. Couldn't really find any pitting or anything significant on the balls but it doesnt take much, this clear is super thin. Mine isn't as bad and I have probably close to 3000 plays on mine.
I clean and wax more than regularly.

20200602_211645 (resized).jpg20200602_211645 (resized).jpg20200602_211412 (resized).jpg20200602_211412 (resized).jpg20200602_211638 (resized).jpg20200602_211638 (resized).jpg20200602_211502 (resized).jpg20200602_211502 (resized).jpg
#5906 3 years ago

I really doubt his is from a buffing wheel but that is really bad for only 200 plays.

#5907 3 years ago

Anyone know the diameter/length of the ramp screws for the tower? I’m going to the hardware store to find a truss head screw to replace them but am not near my machine.

#5908 3 years ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

I really doubt his is from a buffing wheel but that is really bad for only 200 plays.

Try this technique, may seem a little strange but worked for me

I agree the clear is thin..

Take some Blitz wax on your fingers and rub it into the playfield, i mean really rub it in, your fingers will heat up from the friction...

The using the heel of your hand, flatter surface, continue rubbing until the playfield starts to shine...you'll see a difference start to happen...

After all this initial massaging, let dry 20 minutes and lightly wipe off with a really soft microfiber, not a cheap abrasive kind...then recoat and wait 20 more mins with a thincoat...

this worked for me, the rubbing seems to almost seal the wax into the little thin scratches and the top coat then caps over those layers..

hope this works for you

#5909 3 years ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

Try this technique, may seem a little strange but worked for me
I agree the clear is thin..
Take some Blitz wax on your fingers and rub it into the playfield, i mean really rub it in, your fingers will heat up from the friction...
The using the heel of your hand, flatter surface, continue rubbing until the playfield starts to shine...you'll see a difference start to happen...
After all this initial massaging, let dry 20 minutes and lightly wipe off with a really soft microfiber, not a cheap abrasive kind...then recoat and wait 20 more mins with a thincoat...
this worked for me, the rubbing seems to almost seal the wax into the little thin scratches and the top coat then caps over those layers..
hope this works for you

I'll give it shot, thanks.

#5910 3 years ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

Try this technique, may seem a little strange but worked for me
I agree the clear is thin..
Take some Blitz wax on your fingers and rub it into the playfield, i mean really rub it in, your fingers will heat up from the friction...
The using the heel of your hand, flatter surface, continue rubbing until the playfield starts to shine...you'll see a difference start to happen...
After all this initial massaging, let dry 20 minutes and lightly wipe off with a really soft microfiber, not a cheap abrasive kind...then recoat and wait 20 more mins with a thincoat...
this worked for me, the rubbing seems to almost seal the wax into the little thin scratches and the top coat then caps over those layers..
hope this works for you

He is one with the playfield and the playfield is one with him!

#5911 3 years ago
Quoted from Skeets:

Do you mean the upper right flipper to to tower shot? If yes, mine flowed much better after tweaking the ramp flap screw on the left side. The ball was actually hitting the screw and jumping a bit before going up the tower. You can shave the screw head down a bit so it stops happening, makes the shot a million times better IMO.

Thanks. I will give that a try.

#5912 3 years ago

If someone is looking for one of the stern lit shooter rod, Amazon has 1 in stock.

https://www.amazon.com/Stern-Jurassic-Pinball-Machine-Shooter/dp/B081SBGYT2/ref=mp_s_a_1_20

#5913 3 years ago

I just realized my tower shots aren’t registering... how can I trouble shoot this?

#5914 3 years ago
Quoted from jeep-mustang:

If someone is looking for one of the stern lit shooter rod, Amazon has 1 in stock.
amazon.com link »

What was the price....I'm guessing $279.99.

#5915 3 years ago
Quoted from DugFreez:

What was the price....I'm guessing $279.99.

It was $159.99. I'm not certain if that is MSRP or above.

#5916 3 years ago
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

It was $159.99. I'm not certain if that is MSRP or above.

The Stern price is $139. So a $20 markup isn't bad and is very surprising considering that seller buys my Speaker Light Kits from Pinball Life and then marks them up 2x to resell on eBay and Amazon. So I expected they would be asking much more than $160. Especially when the shooter rods have been hard to find.

#5917 3 years ago

I snagged up that rod, it was 159 shipped, thanks for the link!

Anyway, does anyone know why my tower shots aren’t registering? My guess is the “opto” though I have no idea where it is in the tower or how to check/correct it. Thanks!!

#5918 3 years ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

I just realized my tower shots aren’t registering... how can I trouble shoot this?

check the switch in test; check/reseat the connector underneath.

#5919 3 years ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:I snagged up that rod, it was 159 shipped, thanks for the link!
Anyway, does anyone know why my tower shots aren’t registering? My guess is the “opto” though I have no idea where it is in the tower or how to check/correct it. Thanks!!

Did you notice from the picture it's one of the bad ones with the wrong insect?

#5920 3 years ago

I wanted to share an issue I have after 8 months, that was reported earlier.
On the left ramp shot to the control tower, I have a raised head screw, that in some games is close, or partially hidden by
ball guide, but in others, its a few mm away.
Mine is away from the rail, and the ball does hit it, about half the time.
I inspected the screw head, and found wear, which also shows up on my balls.
(Not to mention ramp rejects)

I need to get in there and remove the screw and either replace with something flat, grind down current, or create a small countersink, like most games have.

If you are seeing a lot of ramp rejected shots here....This might be part of the problem.

#5921 3 years ago
Quoted from seenev:

Did you notice from the picture it's one of the bad ones with the wrong insect?

Is it? What is the correct one?

#5922 3 years ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

Is it? What is the correct one?

Looks like a mosquito to me. Either way, I doubt the picture on amazon is the Exact one you'll be receiving. Consider yourself lucky to have one at all. They're difficult to obtain.

#5923 3 years ago

I just bought one from game room guys for $139. There may be a few left

Quoted from CoolCatPinball:

Looks like a mosquito to me. Either way, I doubt the picture on amazon is the Exact one you'll be receiving. Consider yourself lucky to have one at all. They're difficult to obtain.

#5924 3 years ago
Quoted from Medic:

I just bought one from game room guys for $139. There may be a few left

You sure they’re in stock? Sometimes they advertise it as stocked but you’re just buying into a back order

#5925 3 years ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

You sure they’re in stock? Sometimes they advertise it as stocked but you’re just buying into a back order

I think it said 2 left on their website. Hopefully it’s in stock, I didn’t call.

#5926 3 years ago
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:

Looks like a mosquito to me. Either way, I doubt the picture on amazon is the Exact one you'll be receiving. Consider yourself lucky to have one at all. They're difficult to obtain.

I've read that the ones they made after the first run are low quality and don't have the right insect, so if you buy one now it's probably not a good one. I can't say for sure though. Some of the third party versions look pretty good.

#5927 3 years ago
Quoted from seenev:

I've read that the ones they made after the first run are low quality and don't have the right insect, so if you buy one now it's probably not a good one. I can't say for sure though. Some of the third party versions look pretty good.

I’m confused by the right insect comment I keep reading about. I doubt any of the insects are prehistoric that they are putting in them... anyone have side by side comparison of the right one vs the wrong one?

#5928 3 years ago
Quoted from roar:

I’m confused by the right insect comment I keep reading about. I doubt any of the insects are prehistoric that they are putting in them... anyone have side by side comparison of the right one vs the wrong one?

What people are calling "the right" insect is one that looks like the insect on the LCD screen animation during the game. Like a mosquito. Where they are extracting the DNA from the insect in the amber. The "incorrect" one...looks like a different kind of insect. More like a moth or something.

A bug is a bug I guess, but I would want the one that looks like what is shown on the game.

#5929 3 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

check the switch in test; check/reseat the connector underneath.

thanks that was the issue, had to reseat the connector and it works

#5930 3 years ago

I highly recommend disabling the jp system speech and lowering the call out volume to -25 and increasing the music volume to -10.

#5931 3 years ago
Quoted from DugFreez:

What people are calling "the right" insect is one that looks like the insect on the LCD screen animation during the game. Like a mosquito. Where they are extracting the DNA from the insect in the amber. The "incorrect" one...looks like a different kind of insect. More like a moth or something.
A bug is a bug I guess, but I would want the one that looks like what is shown on the game.

The “wrong” insect that is being referenced (And that I see a lot in these mods) Is commonly known as the Crane Fly or Mosquito Eater. It looks somewhat similar to a mosquito but is quite a bit larger. It also lays its eggs in my lawn, leaving brown spots. NOT cool!

10
#5932 3 years ago

Hi Guys

Here some pics of what i did with my jp pro. I never liked the jeep so i put a original jp jeep from the Universal Studios in and i had a custom transilte done from a guy in poland, its one of a kind. He extra put the original jeep in the translite the side blades are also from him, he maid 5-6 sets. As my username says im a total audio freak so i also had to do something there, i put 2 high end focal 2way coaxial speakers with a 12" subwoofer. So that all fits i made some spacer rings with my 3d printer. Sounds fantastic, never thought the original sounds have such low frequencies. The jp is one of the best pins ive ever played.
Greetings from Switzerland

Edit: its a 10" and not 12", sorry for the false info

IMG_20191012_221240_199 (resized).jpgIMG_20191012_221240_199 (resized).jpgIMG_20191012_221240_143 (resized).jpgIMG_20191012_221240_143 (resized).jpgIMG_20191012_221240_142 (resized).jpgIMG_20191012_221240_142 (resized).jpgIMG_20191012_221240_141 (resized).jpgIMG_20191012_221240_141 (resized).jpgIMG_20200623_214753 (resized).jpgIMG_20200623_214753 (resized).jpgIMG_20200623_214816 (resized).jpgIMG_20200623_214816 (resized).jpg

#5933 3 years ago
Quoted from Audiofreak:

Hi Guys
Here some pics of what i did with my jp pro. I never liked the jeep so i put a original jp jeep from the Universal Studios in and i had a custom transilte done from a guy in poland, its one of a kind. He extra put the original jeep in the translite the side blades are also from him, he maid 5-6 sets. As my username says im a total audio freak so i also had to do something there, i put 2 high end focal 2way coaxial speakers with a 12" subwoofer. So that all fits i made some spacer rings with my 3d printer. Sounds fantastic, never thought the original sounds have such low frequencies. The jp is one of the best pins ive ever played.
Greetings from Switzerland
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Grüezi (?) Audiofreak!
Love your mods! Super cool translite! Did you add an amplifier when you upgraded your speakers?

#5934 3 years ago

Haha yes Grüezi is correct, how did you get a ü with your US keyboard?
Yes i love the translite, its directly printed on the glas and the picture cannt show how high the contrast is and beautiful the colors are.
I did`nt add a amplifier, when i screw the volume to high you notice that the amp from the subwoofer overloaded.
But that`s realy already loud enough and the cab is shivering and making noise.
This speaker mod was waaaaaaay much cheaper as soundsystems you can get in some pin shops. Costs where like 80$.

#5935 3 years ago

Had a crap ball one and noticed after the new code update they added sound/call out if you do a game reset by holding down the start button.

#5936 3 years ago
Quoted from Audiofreak:

Haha yes Grüezi is correct, how did you get a ü with your US keyboard?
Yes i love the translite, its directly printed on the glas and the picture cannt show how high the contrast is and beautiful the colors are.
I did`nt add a amplifier, when i screw the volume to high you notice that the amp from the subwoofer overloaded.
But that`s realy already loud enough and the cab is shivering and making noise.
This speaker mod was waaaaaaay much cheaper as soundsystems you can get in some pin shops. Costs where like 80$.

Awesome! I’m wanting to do a sound upgrade and sounds like your method will work and is affordable. Appreciate you sharing!
And, if I hold down the U button on my phone keyboard, it gives me many options ü,ù,û etc. (had to ask my kid to figure that out )

#5937 3 years ago
Quoted from barakandl:

Had a crap ball one and noticed after the new code update they added sound/call out if you do a game reset by holding down the start button.

They added a bunch of different lines for that!

#5938 3 years ago
Quoted from Hop721:

Awesome! I’m wanting to do a sound upgrade and sounds like your method will work and is affordable. Appreciate you sharing!
And, if I hold down the U button on my phone keyboard, it gives me many options ü,ù,û etc. (had to ask my kid to figure that out )

I activated the equalizer in the settings and pulled for the subwoofer all frequencies over ~150hz down to minimum, the backbox speakers get full range and there i also pushed the bass a bit up for the kickbass. They easily can handle that power. Then the sound is so amazing! It’s just very important that the sub has a spacer so it does’nt touch the cab floor when working and that the spacer is closed all around so that the sound can’t escape to the side.
Here some pics how it looks by me.

IMG_20191012_221240_147 (resized).jpgIMG_20191012_221240_147 (resized).jpgIMG_20191012_221240_198 (resized).jpgIMG_20191012_221240_198 (resized).jpg
#5939 3 years ago
Quoted from barakandl:

Had a crap ball one and noticed after the new code update they added sound/call out if you do a game reset by holding down the start button.

I've had a lot of bad balls and have heard a lot of new call outs.

#5940 3 years ago
Quoted from Audiofreak:

I activated the equalizer in the settings and pulled for the subwoofer all frequencies over ~150hz down to minimum, the backbox speakers get full range and there i also pushed the bass a bit up for the kickbass. They easily can handle that power. Then the sound is so amazing! It’s just very important that the sub has a spacer so it does’nt touch the cab floor when working and that the spacer is closed all around so that the sound can’t escape to the side.
Here some pics how it looks by me.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Really cool! Thanks for the pics.
What wattage and ohms are the speakers?

#5941 3 years ago

The backbox are 4 ohms: https://cdn.competec.ch//documents2/7/4/8/51677847/51677847.pdf
and the sub has 8 ohms: https://cdn.competec.ch//documents2/5/8/3/52013385/52013385.pdf

I choosed the ohms like this because it was the same with the original speakers.

Edit: its a 10" and not 12", sorry for the false info

#5942 3 years ago

Would love a Nedry backglass for my machine.

#5943 3 years ago
Quoted from JellyNeck:

I've had a lot of bad balls and have heard a lot of new call outs.

Sometimes when I have a particularly bad ball, theres a new (and quite inappropriate) callout coming out of my mouth!

#5944 3 years ago
Quoted from JellyNeck:

I've had a lot of bad balls and have heard a lot of new call outs.

When I eventually list my game for sale, the game audits will greatly overstate the number of games played.

#5945 3 years ago

My

Quoted from roar:

I’m confused by the right insect comment I keep reading about. I doubt any of the insects are prehistoric that they are putting in them... anyone have side by side comparison of the right one vs the wrong one?

I got mine from Modfather today. I really like it. Looks better than the latest stern ones.

Now i just got to work on installing LEDs in the plate to match the stern one.

IMG_20200721_152537 (resized).jpgIMG_20200721_152537 (resized).jpgIMG_20200721_152602 (resized).jpgIMG_20200721_152602 (resized).jpg

#5946 3 years ago
Quoted from Saddath:

My

I got mine from Modfather today. I really like it. Looks better than the latest stern ones.
Now i just got to work on installing LEDs in the plate to match the stern one.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Is the rod hollow? It would be ideal to shine an led from just inside.

#5947 3 years ago
Quoted from jdroc:

Where should the ball be delivered when rolling out from the control room/"C" area? I watched a clip of last week's Dead Flip stream with Keith and on theirs, it rolls down to the left flipper, about 2/3 of the way down and you can bump to send it to the right flipper.
Mine was hitting the flare at the end of the metal guide and getting bumped out and going SDTM just about every time so i bent it back but that original flare/bend looked very intentional but it's obviously not supposed to just drop down the middle.
Curious where others have the ball delivered on both a shot that goes all the way back to the target and on a non-clean shot that only makes it halfway

Did you ever get this resolved?? My ball is going SDTM on the regular when we hit the Control Room. Is it just a balance issue? Or something I need to adjust in the playfield? It is very frustrating. I am constantly avoiding the Control Room unless the trap is lit. It is a lost ball SDTM 50%+ of the time requiring excess nudging.

#5948 3 years ago
Quoted from KC_Green:

Did you ever get this resolved?? My ball is going SDTM on the regular when we hit the Control Room. Is it just a balance issue? Or something I need to adjust in the playfield? It is very frustrating. I am constantly avoiding the Control Room unless the trap is lit. It is a lost ball SDTM 50%+ of the time requiring excess nudging.

I can stop mine on the left flipper by just holding it up. It should definately drop on the left flipper.
Have you set your game at the right angle?
Mine is on 6.8 degree

#5949 3 years ago

Should go to the left flipper, hitting the raptor pit and having the ball feed to the flipper via the control room is maybe the most satisfying shot in the game (sorry prem/le owners)

Here is a picture of it helps troubleshoot your issue.

D3AC0BF6-4C9F-4D29-8511-ABB704F555CD (resized).jpegD3AC0BF6-4C9F-4D29-8511-ABB704F555CD (resized).jpeg
#5950 3 years ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

Should go to the left flipper, hitting the raptor pit and having the ball feed to the flipper via the control room is maybe the most satisfying shot in the game (sorry prem/le owners)
Here is a picture of it helps troubleshoot your issue. [quoted image]

I don't know man, hitting a clean shot that locks the ball and raises the gate is pretty damn satisfying so no need to apologize.
We still have that up-post there.

Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
$ 24.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
 
€ 99.00
Lighting - Under Cabinet
Watssapen shop
 
$ 79.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lermods
 
$ 20.00
Playfield - Protection
SilverBall Designs
 
$ 5.00
Playfield - Plastics
UpKick Pinball
 
$ 15.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
 
$ 51.45
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lermods
 
9,000 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Birmingham, AL
$ 78.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
PinWorlds
 
9,499
Machine - For Sale
Wood Dale, IL
$ 69.99
Cabinet - Decals
Inscribed Solutions
 
From: € 60.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Pino Pinball Mods Shop
 
$ 24.00
Lighting - Other
Pin Monk
 
11,250
Machine - For Sale
Mt Zion, IL
From: $ 30.00
Cabinet - Other
Rocket City Pinball
 
$ 14.95
7,800
Machine - For Sale
Manalapan, FL
$ 12,999.00
Pinball Machine
Classic Game Rooms
 
$ 25.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
PinEffects
 
From: $ 9,499.00
Pinball Machine
Paradise Distribution
 
From: € 40.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Pino Pinball Mods Shop
 
€ 75.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Pino Pinball Mods Shop
 
$ 17.00
Lighting - Other
Pin Monk
 
From: $ 11.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
 
From: $ 30.00
Cabinet - Other
Rocket City Pinball
 
There are 21,290 posts in this topic. You are on page 119 of 426.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/119?hl=kc_green and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.