https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1232-pinball-stuff/03180-jurassic-park-diy-palm-tree-mounting-brackets

Looks like these are sold out but you can message him and see if he will make some for you.

Well add that to the list of great ideas I wish I had seen earlier, lol.

That raptor toy is awesome!

Hey EaglePin, I'm also getting rejects on launching from the Helicopter half pipe ramp (probably 1 out of 8 rejects). Rejects appear to be from a miss aligned shot causing a rattle and loss of power on entry. You mention "both sides of the fork"? above, could you elaborate on this for a noob!

I see at the end of my shooter lane that there is a thin piece of metal that runs on the inside right that bends away towards the end of the lane. Should this be flush with the side, or should there be another one on the left side to balance this out and make the ball travel straight?

Hey Ectobar, I'd be keen to hear how you're getting on with your pitch after a few months play?

I'm also seeing a lot of people saying that the pitch for this game should be at 7°. I own a Pro model and my Manual clearly says that the Pin should be set at 6.5°, with the option of a steeper incline for more challenging play.

I had set my machine to 7°, until I gave it a fresh coat of wax and replaced the coil stops! Now it is playing crazy fast and causing issues with balls jumping off the T-Rex lane, airballs and clanking around the orbit, not to mention instadeath rebounds from most posts! I accept that some of these issues are due to inexperienced play =) (Could one of you kind gentlemen also point me at a guide to lowering my flipper power please!)

Questions:
1) Is 7° the recommended angle for the Premium/LE?
2) Is everyone saying 7° because they're experienced and prefer a tougher game?
3) Had people been experiencing issues with a 6.5° incline?

I used these from amazon and drilled a small hole in the center using a drill bit for plastic and a drill press. Small drop of glue, 3M VHB clear on the bottom. They work well.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BPH72MX

My Raptor Tower Ramp issue ended up being that it was assembled incorrectly. I posted some pictures of it. It's good to go now.

I think Elwin recommended 7° at some point. Steeper generally means less side to side action and this game is outlane hungry so I'm guessing that's why.

Adjusting flipper power is done through one of the adjustments screens. Don't be afraid to look around in there, you can't mess anything up that you can't recover from.

1) as ectobar said, Keith Elwin the designer said this and applies to pro/prem/le
2) I had mine at 6.5 being a new guy like you thinking it would be easier. After adjusting to 7 the shots are actually easier to hit for me. I was struggling to break 100k before and first game after I got over 200k. I know 200k is still a low score but at the time in comparison I was pumped because I made progress. I figured I’d try and maybe go back but I’ve stayed at 7 deg.

Also the flipper power setting is pretty easy to find scrolling through the settings.

1) See the pic I just took below. The forks of the auto launcher are the two metal pieces the ball is resting on with the manual plunger tip resting just behind and not touching the ball. I’d suggest taking slo motion video of the ball as it’s traveling from the auto launcher so you can get an idea of where it might be going wonky down the path. A lot of people have posted about having a similar problem and resolved it by shimming a washer under one of the metal prongs that make up the start of the metal piece the ball transitions onto on its way to the ramp. If you search for “washer fix” in this thread or the other JP thread I think you’ll probably find info on it. But I’d do video first to get an idea of what’s going on.

2) Here are side and top view pictures of what that area looks like on mine.

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Yesssssssss

In the lowest vertical position should the head of the T-Rex sort of sit between the sides of the ramp so that it cannot freely move left and right without hitting the ramp?

Also should the assembly in the back rock back and forth this much?

And if I'm in position 66 in the vertical test, and I press the interlock, this happens...

Normal???

Yeah, I don’t think you want to do that When the vertical test starts the first thing that happens is the head moves side to side to check its home position. So I think when you pulled the interlock while the test was already teed up in the menu and the head was low it started its normal side to side check but was blocked because it was low. I’m not positive about it but that seems like what was happening there.

Why would they allow you to go into that position, and then if you let go of the interlock, and press it again, you're pretty much stuck.

I just played a few games and seems when the T-Rex event is started, the head lowers and is always in a slightly different position. Sometimes centered, sometimes slightly left or right. I think because the jaw touches the ramp before the head stops moving, it affects the final resting position.

Nothing I can do about that either, as I've jacked the assembly up as high as it can possibly go.

Anyone else have this issue?

Did anyone has to jack the assembly in the back all the way up like this photo just so the T-Rex could open it's jaw?

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This is the reason day 1 DLC is done.

People piss and moan about it but then have a crisis of confidence and then go ahead and buy it anyway.

On the one hand this topper doesn’t subtract from anyone’s experience. The JP (even the LE) people bought or wanted to buy hasn’t changed for the amount of money they were already committed to spending. This simply adds to it.

On the other hand, like the UV on STH, stuff like this shows that you shouldn’t expect LEs to have absolutely everything that had been conceived for a pin. There is a good chance now with every pin Stern release that there is hidden code, future modes etc planned beyond the assumed “LE = complete package” experience. Go into that with your eyes wide open and you’ll be fine.

Regards this thing specifically - it’s in no way worth $600, but so long as people like EricHadley buy it - it validates the business model. Bonus points if they complain about it first and STILL buy it.

Anyone know how I can fix my truck so it sounds freely. Now only budging when you make a perfectly placed shot to the center of the stationary ball.

Anyone know how to align the third flipper? When I look at it it's not lined up with the post making the loop shop difficult. I looked under the play field and it looks like the piece of rubber the flipper hits is blocking it from going back all the way, but I wonder if it's safe to remove that?

We can all thank Kaneda for this silly BS....this is like the 3rd idea they've copied from him.

I’ve been on this site over 10 yrs now

No matter what happens, all the whining and complaining doesn’t make a bit of difference

Fickle pinheads are gonna buy. If it’s not one topper or game it will be the next one!

“Im never buying fill in blank from fill in blank ever again”

Lol. Famous last words

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/topper-dlc-stern-s-new-low

Can we direct the topper posts to the thread here?

I’d like to not have the owner thread filled with this optional purchase.

The alignment hole is designed to be even with the front yellow surface of the flipper, so the flipper is not lined up directly with the post. It’s that way so balls coming around the orbit will hit the post so they don’t go SDTM. Here’s a link to a post by Keith Elwin confirming it.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/96#post-5516155

See my picture with the alignment hole circled in blue. I’m not sure what rubber piece you’re referring to under the playfield. Is it the piece I circled in yellow in the other pic I’ve attached? If so, I don’t think you should remove it.

If you’re having trouble with the shots from the upper flipper, here are a couple other things to try if your flipper is already aligned with the alignment hole properly:
- let the ball roll down from the orbit and check to see does it roll smoothly down the face of the flipper or when it transitions from the metal ball guide to the flipper does it instead hop away a bit from the face of the flipper? If there’s hop then try removing the plastic covering the ball guide and nudge the end of the ball guide out a bit
- try adjusting pitch and/or flipper power. Small changes to those can make a big difference in dialing in the shots.

Hope this helps.

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Stern Jurassic Park Pinball Topper Unboxing + PRIZE GIVEAWAY!

Solid tip!

I'm so torn between this and Turtles for my next NIB. Can't separate the themes, both awesome. Love Elwin but I dunno, Turtles looks super fun. Tough call!

Might just have to go for both

If only

But Stern doesnt listen to Kaneda.........lol

So... the topper looks cool in the video.

CoolCatPinball or anyone else who has used some silicone lubricant for the jeep. Have you used it for anything else? I'm really just being a cheap ass about spending $6

Joined the club yesterday. Game plays pretty well, one issue is the ball coming off the upper right ramp doesn’t feed the flipper cleanly and is almost impossible to get a shot off with the upper flipper. Anyone have any recommendations on how to fix?

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the ball really speeds up once it drops off the metal return. you just have to time your flip correctly.

It seems like it’s bouncing off the ball guide, maybe that’s just the way it’s designed.

No, it should be smooth coming off the right ramp onto the orbit ball guide. I recall other people posting about having this issue and if I remember correctly I think the fix was just to loosen the wire form and adjust its alignment a bit so the ball transitions smoothly.

thanks to Eaglepin and Chris from Cointaker for helping me fix the upper right flipper. I did not know how to align one, but now I do. I have to give a pop to Chris for calling me last night and using video chatting this morning to fix the flipper, align it, and lock it in place.

Maybe i'm wrong, but the defaults on all 3 flippers are way to high. so are the slings (32, I think 18-22 is more than enough). With defaults so high its hard to hit the missile shot, right orbin and loop with the 3rd flipper. Lowering helps and smooths things out.

What did you lower it to?

Congrats! It’s an awesome game.

Ya it should be clean. I’ll take some photos of my spiral placement tomorrow. Not sure if that will help but my feed is smooth.

If you are able to post a video too that would help, I have had to adjust it heaps and I’m sorta happy but still unsure if as good as it can be.

So far, adjusted wire form and also had to bend (very slightly) right side of right ramp. Also very important to make sure the playfield is nice and levelled!

i think the slings are at 18 or 19. i put the flippers to 25. i would definitely lower the top right flipper. the circle shot and mid left ramp are easier to do with it lowered. i did some playing with all 3. at 22 the flippers in the lower area need a little more power to make the ramps.

my bad; didn't know that was a thing.

And fast forward. Ordered topper for one of the best game ever. Nothing like blowing some hard earned money!

Fack the stern shooter rod you can’t get. The Modfather one is awesome

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I like it better, but i like it lit up... Come on Modfather, release one lit up

I do like the Goatmania though.....it reminds me of the Williams cow easter egg. We know what Keith did, but damn whoever did the graphics for this game was robbed, he needs a Twippy sent to him NOW!

It's a non starter if there aren't LED's and lit up. LOL

Anyone can help me out?
I want to rebuild the stern shooter rods lights, but i dont know where to attach the LEDs.
I will drill two holes and put a white through light kit there with a yellow foil.
I found some images of the original shooter rod kit, but since i know nothing about electricity i dont know how i can rebuild/order that plug, since its not just simple +/-
I am afraid to destroy a board or something with wrong wireing- i dont want to plug it to the GI, this thing has its own lightshow.
I also have a soldering iron if needed.
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