Quoted from WizardsCastle:I thought it went in order Feed, Chase, Encounter, Rampage?
I think you can change it with the truck, first one is always multiball though.
Quoted from WizardsCastle:I thought it went in order Feed, Chase, Encounter, Rampage?
I think you can change it with the truck, first one is always multiball though.
Quoted from WizardsCastle:I thought it went in order Feed, Chase, Encounter, Rampage?
That normally seems to be the most common order for me too, but I have seen Rampage earlier. Rampage is lucrative for sure. My fave.
Maybe that's the default order, but as soon as you qualify a mode (after Feed), every hit to the truck changes the lit mode, so you only get them in the default order if you never hit the truck to change it.
This is default behavior... there may be a setting to lock them into a particular order, haven't checked.
Quoted from WizardsCastle:I thought it went in order Feed, Chase, Encounter, Rampage?
I'm not sure, but I think competition/tournament have a set order to them. Here's what it says on the Tiltforums Rulesheet: "On default settings, Feed T-Rex is always played as the first mode of the game, and the other three modes cycle with shots to the truck. On Competition Install settings, the first available mode will not necessarily be Feed T-Rex, and the Feed T-Rex mode will not start immediately on spelling completion at the captive ball."
Quoted from EaglePin:I'm not sure, but I think competition/tournament have a set order to them. Here's what it says on the Tiltforums Rulesheet: "On default settings, Feed T-Rex is always played as the first mode of the game, and the other three modes cycle with shots to the truck. On Competition Install settings, the first available mode will not necessarily be Feed T-Rex, and the Feed T-Rex mode will not start immediately on spelling completion at the captive ball."
Correct. I have it in Competition Settings and there may be a set order, but you can always change it by hitting the truck an additional time after qualified. Always starts the mode at the left ramp, even for T-Rex MB.
Quoted from kvan99:Same here, I was told it was shipping a month ago, I've sent a couple of emails but never got an answer.
Can someone with experience with Tilt topper chime in? I’ve sent polite status emails as well and nada. nothing.
Is this typical?
Quoted from EaglePin:I'm not sure, but I think competition/tournament have a set order to them. Here's what it says on the Tiltforums Rulesheet: "On default settings, Feed T-Rex is always played as the first mode of the game, and the other three modes cycle with shots to the truck. On Competition Install settings, the first available mode will not necessarily be Feed T-Rex, and the Feed T-Rex mode will not start immediately on spelling completion at the captive ball."
is there anything on the screen that tells you how many of the encounters you have completed or played?
new owner here; day one. anyone experience a cabinet speaker tick? at the end of ball and before starting the next, my main cabinet speaker will sometimes repeatedly "tick" until i launch, again. hopefully a quick fix. ty.
Quoted from weaverj:new owner here; day one. anyone experience a cabinet speaker tick? at the end of ball and before starting the next, my main cabinet speaker will sometimes repeatedly "tick" until i launch, again. hopefully a quick fix. ty.
subwoofer connected?
it cuts out every once in awhile during gameplay, too. maybe loose speaker solder? i'll check it out.
Quoted from WizardsCastle:is there anything on the screen that tells you how many of the encounters you have completed or played?
There doesn't seem to be anything on the screen. I just played to take a look and didn't see anything. I thought maybe it could be one of the pieces of information you get when you hold a flipper up to get game information but it wasn't in there either. Would be nice to have some place to show how many T-Rex modes have been started.
i reseated the cable in the backbox. maybe it came loose a little during transport. the connector isn't the best either way, huh?
I bought a Jurassic Park Pro NIB a little over 2 weeks ago and noticed that the wood in the shooter lane has a small crack running up from the slit. I attached a photo that I hope shows the crack. Initially I wasn't too concerned because it doesn't impact gameplay, but then was wondering if it will give me problems in the future and possibly minimize the value of the machine? Anyone else seen this issue?
IMG_20200601_115034 (resized).jpgQuoted from sliprose:I bought a Jurassic Park Pro NIB a little over 2 weeks ago and noticed that the wood in the shooter lane has a small crack running up from the slit. I attached a photo that I hope shows the crack. Initially I wasn't too concerned because it doesn't impact gameplay, but then was wondering if it will give me problems in the future and possibly minimize the value of the machine? Anyone else seen this issue?
[quoted image]
damn that's never good to see I would repair from the bottom at least. I turned down the trough eject to around 170 which someone mentioned in this thread to help prevent the wear you are seeing on the right side.
Quoted from weaverj:so what is the correct size for post sleeves? 7/8 or 1 1/16? can't find it in the manual. ty.
I believe they are the 1 1/16.
I was also looking through the manual to cross reference. Earlier in the thread someone mentioned they are tapered but I can't find the part number in the manual. I'm looking to replace with the PerfectPlay thin which reference Stern PN 545-5308-00, but don't mention being tapered. The Titan thin tapered also refer to 545-5308-00.
Quoted from sliprose:I bought a Jurassic Park Pro NIB a little over 2 weeks ago and noticed that the wood in the shooter lane has a small crack running up from the slit. I attached a photo that I hope shows the crack. Initially I wasn't too concerned because it doesn't impact gameplay, but then was wondering if it will give me problems in the future and possibly minimize the value of the machine? Anyone else seen this issue?
[quoted image]
I doubt you'll have anything to worry about. You could always put in a Cliffy shooter lane protector to help absorb the brunt of the ball-kickout and protect the wood.
Quoted from gblack:I believe they are the 1 1/16.
yeah, eyeballing them, they look like that. thanks; gl.
Quoted from weaverj:yeah, eyeballing them, they look like that. thanks; gl.
And if anyone finds post sleeves that don't bounce directly to the outlines let me know
Quoted from gblack:damn that's never good to see I would repair from the bottom at least. I turned down the trough eject to around 170 which someone mentioned in this thread to help prevent the wear you are seeing on the right side.
Yeah, a bummer to see a defect right out of the box. Thanks for the tip on turning the eject down to 176 (lowest it will go) to see if that reduces the wear on the right side. I honestly didn't notice the wear until I took the pic.
I also turned down the flippers from 255 to 235 based on earlier posts. I wonder if doing this will help with the left T-Rex ramp sometimes not registering? Mine misses the shot probably 5% of the time, which is usually a clean perfect shot - adding to the frustration. I saw the earlier post to remove spacers on the back of the ramp cover to prevent the ball from jumping over the sensor. I was planning on doing this but just switching the washer & spacer on the screw so the spacer is on top of the plastic cover and washer on bottom, reducing the height of the cover. I'm going to see if the reduced flipper power reduces the sensor misses on the ramp before messing with it.
Quoted from Vino:Can someone with experience with Tilt topper chime in? I’ve sent polite status emails as well and nada. nothing.
Is this typical?
All I can say is that mine was very, very slow. I got an initial email saying things were very backed up due to Covid-19. I wait a couple more weeks and then emailed again. Then my topper showed up about two weeks after that.
Quoted from sliprose:Yeah, a bummer to see a defect right out of the box. Thanks for the tip on turning the eject down to 176 (lowest it will go) to see if that reduces the wear on the right side. I honestly didn't notice the wear until I took the pic.
I also turned down the flippers from 255 to 235 based on earlier posts. I wonder if doing this will help with the left T-Rex ramp sometimes not registering? Mine misses the shot probably 5% of the time, which is usually a clean perfect shot - adding to the frustration. I saw the earlier post to remove spacers on the back of the ramp cover to prevent the ball from jumping over the sensor. I was planning on doing this but just switching the washer & spacer on the screw so the spacer is on top of the plastic cover and washer on bottom, reducing the height of the cover. I'm going to see if the reduced flipper power reduces the sensor misses on the ramp before messing with it.
I have the Pro that had the same issue with registering T Rex shots. Whatever I recommended before with the spacers fixes the problem 100 percent. I even added some clear tape on the edges of the ramp to hold it down flush. You cannot see that part of the ramp anyways while playing. Good luck. Easy fix.
Here's a link to what I did for my T-Rex ramp to fix it, mine wasn't registering the exit opto on fast shots because of a bad alignment.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/68#post-5334805
Here's a link to what I did for my T-Rex ramp to fix it, mine wasn't registering the exit opto on fast shots because of bad alignment.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/68#post-5334805
Quoted from Jahkub:Here's a link to what I did for my T-Rex ramp to fix it, mine wasn't registering the exit opto on fast shots because of bad alignment.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/68#post-5334805
Good tip. I'll look at the opto sensor alignment to see if it is setup properly. I need to clean and wax soon as getting close to 500 plays already, so I'll check out the sensor then. Thanks.
Quoted from pinmister:Decided to swap out the stock Velociraptor and Pterodactyl plastics that came from factory. I added Velociraptor 'Charlie' and found a JP Pterodactyl in 3d the same exact size as the flat plastic one. I also found another cool vintage Dilophosaurus I found a spot for. Now I am debating if I should do mirror blades or side blades?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Those dinos are cool - where did you find them?
Quoted from Vino:Can someone with experience with Tilt topper chime in? I’ve sent polite status emails as well and nada. nothing.
Is this typical?
I got mine a couple of days ago...he must swamped, I never got a reply but I did get a tracking number last week telling me it's shipping.
Quoted from Ockeyhead:Had the same issue w/ the gradual sluggishness w/ the truck. When the machine was new the truck was fluent w/ movement, but there was a gradual decline within the past month. I also disassembled the truck w/ the set screw & while I was underneath the playfield I cleaned the inside bushing w/ isopropyl alcohol. There was a buildup of grime within the bushing as now it's squeaky clean. This & adding silicone oil to the bearings has rendered the truck swing sensitively responsive w/ perfect play.
My only concern is while underneath the playfield, there were several post that were loose & also the pinball attachment connected to the truck has some wiggle, left to right, etc. I believe this attachment should be secure & flush without movement?[quoted image]
I think I have the same issue with the sluggish truck. Really have to hit it good to get it to move. Does anyone know the size of the set screw?
Quoted from pb456:Those dinos are cool - where did you find them?
Thanks, I found them on Ebay. Type in Jurassic Park Velociraptor or Jurassic Park Dilophosaurus under search and there are many to choose from. They were cheap and some included free shipping. I liked the 'Charlie' Velociraptor the best because I think it resembles the one pictured on the raptor cage target.
I also highly recommend Super bands, I think they help tremendously with ball control. I have them on all of my machines.
Quoted from ElkGrovePinball:Does anyone know the size of the set screw?
Quoted from ectobar:FYI: The set screw to remove the truck is a 3/32" allen wrench
What's the consensus on the plastic washers on the T-Rex ramp flap. Keep them or toss them?
I'm getting quiet a few rejects on clean shots, and I'm getting about 50% shots not registering to go into the T-Rex mouth.
In the adjustment instructions, it says that the T-Rex jaw should just barely touch the ramp. Mine seems to hit it pretty solidly even though I've raised it as high as it can go.
I'm getting pretty frustrated with this. I've been trying to get this game working smoothly for months, and it just doesn't seem to play right.
Quoted from twinmice:Just joined, waited a few for most of the bugs to be worked out.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Congratulations man! Is that a pro? Hows the playfield looking dimples still heavy?
Expected to take delivery of my premium this month.... wondering if I should install a playfield protector from the beginning or play it for a bit and see how the dimples look.
Quoted from WizardsCastle:What's the consensus on the plastic washers on the T-Rex ramp flap. Keep them or toss them?
I'm getting quiet a few rejects on clean shots, and I'm getting about 50% shots not registering to go into the T-Rex mouth.
In the adjustment instructions, it says that the T-Rex jaw should just barely touch the ramp. Mine seems to hit it pretty solidly even though I've raised it as high as it can go.
I'm getting pretty frustrated with this. I've been trying to get this game working smoothly for months, and it just doesn't seem to play right.
For mine, I took the spacers on the ramp cover off but then I seemed to get a lot more clean shot rejects from the ball hopping up and hitting the cover so I put them back on and it worked better for me with them on. I think some people have left them off and been good with it that way though. It seems to me as though dialing it in is a combination of a few variables and changing one can have an effect on the others, so like you said it can be a bit frustrating dialing it all in. Assuming everything else with the T-Rex is okay (no screws loose/missing, mouth opto working correctly, and jaw opening to touch the ramp) it seems like the main factors are pitch, flipper power, the ramp cover spacers on or off, and doing a fix to the ramp entrance opto (tape fix or Stern opto cover part installed) so it still registers when the ball hops up. I wish I could point out one main thing to check but it seems like it can be a combination of factors.
What's happening on the rejects? Does it seem like the ball is going into the mouth to a position where it should be held by the T-Rex and then rolling back out? Doing slow motion video on it helped me diagnose mine. When T-Rex was ready to hit I used my phone camera to record the shot so I could see how the ball was hitting it. That's how I confirmed that the ball was entering the mouth but not being held, and in my case it was the ramp entrance opto not being triggered to fire the magnet. Seems like some people have also had issues with the mouth opto, so if yours is being caught initially and then released it could be because the mouth opto isn't registering a ball there and the magnet turns off after the initial catch. Hang in there. It's frustrating now but it'll be worth it once you get it resolved and dialed in so it catches consistently
Anyone lucky enough to own a JP2 switch their truck with a Jeep yet? I remember thinking back when Stern announced this machine that the first thing I'd like to see go was that plastic truck that has wheels molded so obviously into the frame! Time to start looking for a decent replacement since my premium will arrive this month.
Quoted from EaglePin:For mine, I took the spacers on the ramp cover off but then I seemed to get a lot more clean shot rejects from the ball hopping up and hitting the cover so I put them back on and it worked better for me with them on. I think some people have left them off and been good with it that way though. It seems to me as though dialing it in is a combination of a few variables and changing one can have an effect on the others, so like you said it can be a bit frustrating dialing it all in. Assuming everything else with the T-Rex is okay (no screws loose/missing, mouth opto working correctly, and jaw opening to touch the ramp) it seems like the main factors are pitch, flipper power, the ramp cover spacers on or off, and doing a fix to the ramp entrance opto (tape fix or Stern opto cover part installed) so it still registers when the ball hops up. I wish I could point out one main thing to check but it seems like it can be a combination of factors.
What's happening on the rejects? Does it seem like the ball is going into the mouth to a position where it should be held by the T-Rex and then rolling back out? Doing slow motion video on it helped me diagnose mine. When T-Rex was ready to hit I used my phone camera to record the shot so I could see how the ball was hitting it. That's how I confirmed that the ball was entering the mouth but not being held, and in my case it was the ramp entrance opto not being triggered to fire the magnet. Seems like some people have also had issues with the mouth opto, so if yours is being caught initially and then released it could be because the mouth opto isn't registering a ball there and the magnet turns off after the initial catch. Hang in there. It's frustrating now but it'll be worth it once you get it resolved and dialed in so it catches consistently
Thanks for all that. I'll take your advice and record a slow motion video to see if I can figure out what is going on.
Quoted from WizardsCastle:What's the consensus on the plastic washers on the T-Rex ramp flap. Keep them or toss them?
I'm getting quiet a few rejects on clean shots, and I'm getting about 50% shots not registering to go into the T-Rex mouth.
In the adjustment instructions, it says that the T-Rex jaw should just barely touch the ramp. Mine seems to hit it pretty solidly even though I've raised it as high as it can go.
I'm getting pretty frustrated with this. I've been trying to get this game working smoothly for months, and it just doesn't seem to play right.
Try to loose the upper and lower parts holding the T-Rex Assembly.
Move the upper part of the T-Rex as high as you can and then hold the position and fix it with the screws.
Move the lower part down as much as possible and then fix it.
This solved my problem after months of frustration (my T-Rex lower mouth was also often blocked by the right wireramp at beginning of the T-Rex event).
Hope this will help.
Quoted from MUGEN_4_LIFE:Anyone lucky enough to own a JP2 switch their truck with a Jeep yet?
Search is your friend.
Click find in topic: jeep
Quoted from spfxted:Anyone LOCAL want to buy my Jurassic Park dino standee? It's pretty big at about 5 feet tall, but would be a pain to ship....
[quoted image]
That's awesome!
If you do decide you can ship, let me know!
I still have one of the cups pictured in that standee.. unfortunately failed to collect them all though.
Can anyone confirm if the perfectplay slim post sleeves are tapered or is it only titan that offers slim tapered sleeves?
487 plays and over 1000 balls in my first 3 weeks Posts are getting beat up.
Quoted from gblack:Can anyone confirm if the perfectplay slim post sleeves are tapered....
PerfectPlay ‘slim’ post sleeves are not tpered.
Quoted from moTiv8:Try to loose the upper and lower parts holding the T-Rex Assembly.
Move the upper part of the T-Rex as high as you can and then hold the position and fix it with the screws.
Move the lower part down as much as possible and then fix it.
This solved my problem after months of frustration (my T-Rex lower mouth was also often blocked by the right wireramp at beginning of the T-Rex event).
Hope this will help.
I did remove the 4 nuts and move it up.
Can someone who has successfully done fixed this, explain how much the jaw is touching the ramp. As in, does it lightly rest against it, or does the jaw open and whack the ramp?
Thanks!
Quoted from WizardsCastle:I did remove the 4 nuts and move it up.
Can someone who has successfully done fixed this, explain how much the jaw is touching the ramp. As in, does it lightly rest against it, or does the jaw open and whack the ramp?
Thanks!
On mine I don't think it's so low that it whacks it but it's not resting above the ramp either. Front of the lower jaw is just sitting on the ramp when the mouth opens. Here's a post I made describing how I went about adjusting mine:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/23#post-5244414
Quoted from J-Freeze:That's awesome!
If you do decide you can ship, let me know!
I'll check what shipping would be....
Has anyone else experienced Chaos MB not starting correctly? Im unsure if the exact circumstances, but qualifying via the smart missile will show a direct hit and score but not start the MB. It’ll often require a further hit of the target in the pops. It may not be relevant, but generally seems to happen when most of the Chaos letters has been hit. Has happened while drunk and sober, alone and with friends
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:Has anyone else experienced Chaos MB not starting correctly? Im unsure if the exact circumstances, but qualifying via the smart missile will show a direct hit and score but not start the MB. It’ll often require a further hit of the target in the pops. It may not be relevant, but generally seems to happen when most of the Chaos letters has been hit. Has happened while drunk and sober, alone and with friends
The smart Missle award is 'Complete CHAOS'. It spots all the letters for you. You still need to hit the target to start the MB.
So...I was a little off.
Here's what tilt says:
"Complete CHAOS - Awards five CHAOS letters, wrapping back to where your current lit letter was, and if it’s the CHAOS completion that starts multiball, it will also start (if it’s able to)."
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