Jurassic Park Restoration


By Lonzo

1 year ago


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  • 63 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 hours ago by Lonzo
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There are 466 posts in topic. You are on page 9 of 10.
#401 48 days ago

Here is the 12v power distribution set up. I do not like to take power from any of the boards if at all possible. Since most of the things I add use 12v, I added a 12v power supply. On previous games I might have 2 or 3 things hooked into the power supply with one terminal. On this one I found these distribution blocks that matched the colors of the interior. I have 120v off the transformer plug routed through a fuse and then to the 12v power supply. From the 12v power supply, I have a fuse and then the 12v block. All 12v mods will hook to these blocks.
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Once finished, these covers will go on that will hide the connections and make things look a little neater.
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I finished the connectors for the lighted flipper buttons and changed out the coin door plug for the right size.
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The power supplies on DE have an issue with the transformer plug. The upper pins will get hot and damage as seen by this picture.
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I replaced both the transformer attach pins and the grounding pins above them. I also changed out all the 5 volt components just due to age. I replaced the 4 4700uf capacitors and the voltage regulator. All hooked back up with perfect voltages.
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As of now, the cabinet is finished up except for the mods I will add as time progresses. I wont put the under cab flasher on until she is off the lift. I haven't finished designing my surprise backbox mod yet so it will probably be one of the last things added when the machine is done.

I will probably be heading out of town for 4-5 days so my goal is to do a final sand and buff of the playfield and get to work on it next week.

#402 47 days ago

Man you are doing good work!

#403 42 days ago

Worked on the playfield today. When you use multiple layers of clear, it fills up the holes even though you are sanding a lot of the clear off the playfield. You have to get the clear out of the holes or when you put a screw in, it will pull the clear off the playfield and you will have a whole new set of problems and a sick feeling in your gut.

Using a regular drill bit risks pulling up the clear so you must use a Brad tip drill bits. Most sets start with 1/8 inch but you need a 3/32 to clean out the holes for the wire form lane guides. This set on eBay has all of them and they are really sharp. I was real happy with how they worked. I can control the speed of my drill so I just go really slow. These are sharp enough you can do it by hand as well.
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Here is what the holes look like before they are cleaned. I guess I could clean them every time I spray but normally I just wait until the end.
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Nice clean hole.
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Using one of the bigger bits for the big plastic lane guides so they will fit flush in the recessed areas.
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Playfield is ready to wet sand. I hope to sand and buff tomorrow.
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#404 42 days ago

Nice. I bought those same bits to work on my NGS playfield swap. Made life so much better.

#405 41 days ago

Milestone................PLAYFIELD IS DONE

I wet sanded today with an air orbital sander. I hand sanded a few weeks ago with 800 so today I used 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500 and then 3000 and 5000 foam pads. Most people stop with 2000 or 2500 but I like to take it to 5000. As you can see from the picture, there is a nice shine after the sanding.
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Since used 5000 sanding, I skipped the heavy cuts and started with medium. I put it on the playfield and then wet the pad.
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Its amazing the transformation with just a couple minutes buffing. Remember that the light in the reflection is behind a sheet of hazy plastic so that is why it doesn't look crystal clear
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Better shot at the reflection.
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Did two more cuts of Fine and Swirl Remover. Will put a light coat of wax on and she is ready to go.
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I also got my Reese Rails today

#406 41 days ago

I took the paint booth down since I wont need it for a few months and its nice to have the other half of my shop back. Its a lot brighter in here now.
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Here are a couple more gloss shots now that the plastic is down.
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Started working on a light box for the "When Dinosaurs Ruled The Earth" sign. I am planning on enclosing the sign so no light bleeds down below to the playfield. I am doing it for two reasons. One is that I don't want to flood the area too much because I don't want to wash out the lighted Amber block. Also I am going to try and do the lighted plexi back panel which will give me the lighted plastic but not light up the whole area. I designed a box and printed it out so you can see what I am planning. I didn't have any black so I might have to throw some paint on the edges so it remains invisible. I might buy some black filament and print it again as this was a prototype test anyways. If I decide I need additional light on the back part of the playfield, then I can make holes in the bottom of the light box to let as much light out as I want.
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Opened up the Reese Rails and they are really nice. I originally planned to do the rails myself but I just didn't feel like doing a bunch of wood work and painting. I am ready to move this project along and didn't really want to wait.

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#407 40 days ago

I'm drooling.....this is some amazing work

#408 40 days ago

Congrats on the milestone, beautiful work!

#409 40 days ago

Truly an inspiration to those of us who pretend to be restorers...amazing work

#410 40 days ago

This is beyond restoration. It is the creation of an art piece .
Seriously, I am droling all over this one.

#411 39 days ago

Thanks everyone for the kind words. I kinda got carried away with this one. Lol

#412 39 days ago

Lets get this party started.
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First things first. Installed the Rails to give the playfield some strength.
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Went through and cleaned all the sockets with a socket cleaner in the drill.
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Installed all the GI bulbs to check for any major problems. It is alive.
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Time to remove all the stuff I installed for the clearing.
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Holy Batcrap, I forgot how dirty the underside is. Of course I haven't seen the underside in over a year.
I am gonna have to do a lot of cleaning for this thing to go in that cabinet.
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Cleaned this corner just to see how it cleaned up.
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#413 36 days ago

Lonzo I was wondering if you can point me in the right direction, I just picked up a JP for a really good deal with one exception. Inside the backbox the lights/Panel was completely missing, for now its just a static light in there. Is the only route custom Fab on it at this point? I havnt found the part listed anywhere refurb or used, not sure why the previous owners pitched it.

#414 35 days ago

L

Quoted from Marcdaddy:
Lonzo I was wondering if you can point me in the right direction, I just picked up a JP for a really good deal with one exception. Inside the backbox the lights/Panel was completely missing, for now its just a static light in there. Is the only route custom Fab on it at this point? I havnt found the part listed anywhere refurb or used, not sure why the previous owners pitched it.

You could probably use any DE light backboard if you could find it. The wiring should be similar with the only difference being the flashers. You could modify it to work for you. The light holes would not be in the right places but it probably wouldn't be that noticable.

The other option would be to make one from scratch using photos of an original one.

Or you could get a transformer and put some LED strips in there as well.

#415 34 days ago

I removed the light boards in the center of the playfield and man, those things are dirty. I will leave them out until the underside is mostly done just to make it easier to work on.
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The white egg target was pretty scratched up so I replaced it.
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The foam on the back support was completely gone. For those of you air balls off switches, check this foam. If it is missing, the switch flexes back too far and launches the ball.
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Nice new pad.
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Next, I took the old target off and riveted a new one on. I use a squeeze riveter that make things like this easy.
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Here is the target completed and installed. Also the red guide rails.
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The only other thing I was able to do is polish up some of the lane switches and install them.

#416 33 days ago

One more question, my coin door is in sad shape and the wire harness is jacked up. Can I replace it with a nice Robocop coin door with white harness intact?

#417 33 days ago

This is going to be the sexiest JP out there. Has HEP ever done a nicer JP?

#418 33 days ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

This is going to be the sexiest JP out there. Has HEP ever done a nicer JP?

HEP has the following JP's on his photo gallery page. It looks like it may be the same JP in two different photo albums where one is the completed game and the other is the process up to and including the completed game.

http://christopherhutchins.com/gallery/album409
http://christopherhutchins.com/gallery/album196

Gord

#419 33 days ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

This is going to be the sexiest JP out there. Has HEP ever done a nicer JP?

Going to be very nice!
This one looks much more like a personal labor of love type of project than the straight restoration I did a several years back on one. Most of the projects I do are specific request. Occasionally they will turn me loose(silver Centaur for example)but often it is dictated by the owner. That’s what I am here for though so no problem.
Lonzo is doing very well with his.

#420 33 days ago

Thank you guys for the kind words. And to even be mentioned in the same company as HEP is Humbling. I have the utmost respect for Chris at HEP and his documentation has taught me lot. While I have never met Chris, I have spoke with him several times via email and he has been very helpful with information and is second to none at what he does. And he has the cutest shop dog around.

I had originally planned to have this at TPF last year and when I didn't have is finished, I decided to just go all out with it since I had another year. It definitely is a labor of love for sure.

Chris, I really appreciate the support.

#421 33 days ago

Started working on one of the 3 target switch banks. They looked pretty banged up.
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They actually cleaned up pretty nice but still had a shadow of where the ball would strike the targets.
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Some were actually bent forward. Sorry, the focus picked up on the playfield.
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I filed down the rivet on the back of the target. I did it very carefully because the targets are in good enough shape to replace targets on a "shopped" machine. I needed to "pop" the face off and that normally sends the rivet washer flying so I put some tape over to catch it.
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Tada......For my next trick.....
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There was no foam on these targets either so the back part of the switch was also bent back.
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Back all put back together, adjusted and gapped.
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These bigger wire guides are pretty ugly. I got a vibration cleaner and gonna see how it works.
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#422 33 days ago

Did you add anything to the tumbler? I use some flitz metal polish and the parts turn out great, the guide rails looked new.

#423 33 days ago
Quoted from bflagg:

Did you add anything to the tumbler? I use some flitz metal polish and the parts turn out great, the guide rails looked new.

I used a polish but I can't remember what brand it was.

#424 33 days ago

Not much "photo worthy" but cleaned a lot of inserts and got two more targets done. Kinda sucks when you cant find any deep target faces so you have to buy complete targets just so you can take the face off and take the old one apart and swap faces. Doubles the time to do a target. The new ones were not the same so I couldn't just solder the new one in.

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#425 32 days ago

Wow. Great work. Picked up a JP yesterday needing more work as usual but will never reach your level. I am already happy if I can make it a nice playerpin

A 2nd cabinet is included which looks way better as this one so will do a swap.

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#426 32 days ago

Welcome to the club. Hope you enjoy getting it up and running.

#427 27 days ago

Lots of work done over the last 2 days. I got all the switches finished and installed. All the parts left over to bring you all new switch faces.
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Mine did not have the metal playfield rods that sit behind the flippers. I got some new ones and installed them.
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Then I rebuilt the pop bumpers. These things were nasty.
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I took all the parts off and scrubbed the blue mount.
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Here are the rest of the parts cleaned up.
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After I assembled it and installed it I realized that it was all a waste of time because I don't see a difference.
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The last bumper was easier to rebuild because all I had to do was open the new blue mount.
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Next I rebuilt the flippers. Once again, they were very dirty.
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The upper flipper was missing the spring bracket that is supposed to be attached to the flipper mech. You can see that they just hooked the spring to the hex bolt.
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After looking at the other two flippers, they brackets on those looked pretty bad so I am just going to replace all of them.
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Here is the flipper rebuild kit.
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One of the spring attach brackets is cracked so it will have to be replaced.
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Flippers finished. Those with a sharp eye will notice that there are no switches. (more on that in the next post.) There are also a couple of screws that were missing that I will have to buy and replace.
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All of the lights and sockets have also been cleaned and a list of bulbs that I need has been made. I am going to order my LEDs individually instead of a kit so I can get exactly what I want.

It may not look like a lot of work has been done but it is becoming much more organized.
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Here is a top shot. All the targets are installed and most of the smaller ball guides.
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I did some experimenting. The original pops had white skirts. I had some extra laying around so I tried a red one just to see how it looked. I also had a new set of the metal bumper rings so I had the old ones powder coated red. I tried a couple of combinations. I wasn't thinking about the red showing though the cap when I had the idea. Not sure which one I like better.
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#428 26 days ago

I have a flipper question. Some documentation I have says there are supposed to be switches on the main flippers. The manual references a switch on the left main flipper but not the right. I believe this is due to the raptor kickback. Mine does not have any switches on them. The picture on IPDB shoes switches on both lower flippers.

So here is my question. Do you have switches on both flippers?
If so, what wire combination is hooked to each, because I am not seeing it in the switch matrix. It may be a direct switch and if so, I can probably find it in the schematics but I haven't looked yet. I do have a couple of suspicious wires that are twist tied together which would simulated the EOS never being triggered. Gotta love a hacked up game.

Just kinda weird that the switches are totally gone. You would think if the switch broke, they would have just tied the wires together and left the switch. lol

Thanks

#429 26 days ago

Very very nice restoration! Lot of small and nicely done details!
I feel your dedication and love for this hobby...keep up the great work man!

#430 26 days ago

I prefer the white skirts, but probably only because they are familiar to me.

#431 26 days ago

Yeah white looks alot better imo.

#432 26 days ago

I did yellow skirts, turned out pretty nice.

#433 26 days ago
Quoted from waldo34:

I did yellow skirts, turned out pretty nice.

I had thought about yellow but didn't have any.

#434 26 days ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

I have a flipper question. Some documentation I have says there are supposed to be switches on the main flippers. The manual references a switch on the left main flipper but not the right. I believe this is due to the raptor kickback. Mine does not have any switches on them. The picture on IPDB shoes switches on both lower flippers.
So here is my question. Do you have switches on both flippers?
If so, what wire combination is hooked to each, because I am not seeing it in the switch matrix. It may be a direct switch and if so, I can probably find it in the schematics but I haven't looked yet. I do have a couple of suspicious wires that are twist tied together which would simulated the EOS never being triggered. Gotta love a hacked up game.
Just kinda weird that the switches are totally gone. You would think if the switch broke, they would have just tied the wires together and left the switch. lol
Thanks

No idea if it’s right or wrong but it’s what I’ve got.

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#435 26 days ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

No idea if it’s right or wrong but it’s what I’ve got.

Thanks for the pictures and that is what I suspected. I did some research and the switch wires come from the flipper board so that's why they are not In the matrix. Those do indeed look like the wires that are tied together and that matches the colors coming from the board so it all makes sense now and I will add the switches.

#436 25 days ago

Superb work Lonzo!

I prefer white over red but either way looks great man!

#437 25 days ago
Quoted from Plumonium:

Superb work Lonzo!
I prefer white over red but either way looks great man!

Thanks. Of the two I think I will go with white. They are cheap enough that I may order some yellow to throw on there and check out.

#438 25 days ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

Thanks. Of the two I think I will go with white. They are cheap enough that I may order some yellow to throw on there and check out.

If you are to order, totally!

#439 19 days ago

Looks amazing Lonzo! What are you going to use for playfield support brackets? Anyone got a good part number for some slide brackets that work well for this game?

#440 18 days ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

I have a flipper question.

There was an EOS switch board mod for JP, since they were always a bit fussy.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/80#post-4140092

#441 18 days ago
Quoted from tbutler6:

Looks amazing Lonzo! What are you going to use for playfield support brackets? Anyone got a good part number for some slide brackets that work well for this game?

I am just using the standard brackets that it came with. They suck but I don't feel like doing any engineering right now.

#442 18 days ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

There was an EOS switch board mod for JP, since they were always a bit fussy.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/80#post-4140092

I saw that the other day. I will have to look at my flipper board to see what I have.

#443 18 days ago

Added the switches to the lower flippers. It also appears that I will have to do the modification to the flipper board because I have the old one.
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I rebuilt both sling shots. They were dirty but in pretty good shape.
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I replaced the blue link in both. There was play in it and you can see some of the wear.
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Both installed.
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The boat dock eject hole was originally yellow but I decided to replace it with a new red one.
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I want to make sure everything that is seen on the top of the playfield is nice and pretty no matter how small it is so I polished the end of the switch that is in the center of the eject plastic.
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Here it is all cleaned up and installed. I will add a light later that lights up the hole.
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Then I cleaned up the light boards are re-installed them. I also reflowed all the solder joints on the connector pins.
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The I ran into a problem. I was going to install the T-Rex ejector hole and mechanism and realized that it was cracked.
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My original Idea was to use a clear one lit up with a green light since it is in a "grassy" area. Everywhere I checked was out of stock on those and I have never seen a green one for sale so I was going to use the original.

it appears pinballlife now has them in stock so I will pick up a few.

#444 12 days ago

Just use red. Hes eating the ball...and a goat....theres blood. I wanted to go red next time Im buying stuff. Green is a neat idea too.

#445 11 days ago

finally got a good day to get a lot of work done. Not much of it is "photo" worthy but a lot of cleaning coils, brackets, wiring etc. I did get my Comet LED order in so all the insert bulbs have been installed.

From the early pictures you might remember that shooter lane was really chewed up. I think I found the reason. The metal plate on the ball trough that holds the coil was bent. I think what it was doing is firing the ball a little more vertically than normal which I think caused it to bounce down more than across the shooter lane. I think it was coming down before it got out of the coil mech. You can see from this picture that the ball pounded a nice "U" shape in the lip. If you look close you can see the edge actually rolled to the outside. Sorry, I don't have a better picture of it as I already filed and polished it as good as it can get. I also sent it to powder coating. I also bent everything back the way it should be.
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Next I got my clear eject holes in but as I mentioned before, they have the little tabs in them which I assume would interfere with the T-Rex mouth.
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First step is to carefully cut the tabs as close as possible to the surface without messing up the surface because that just causes more work when you sand.
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Next you wet sand with 1000 grit until the surface is smooth.
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Then you move up to 1500, 2000, 2500, 3000 and 5000. It will look pretty good after this but not quit clear. Then I take and buff it with fine cut and then with swirl remover and you have a nice polished finish and you cant see any evidence of the tabs.
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Nice eating my T-Rex. I will light it up with green and if I don't like it I will change to the red.
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I decided to try the yellow skirts. I think it compliments the yellow ring around the bumpers and well as the caps. If I dint like it I can change to white later.
I also got all the wiring hooked back up for the pops.
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Current picture of the bottom. Installed the VOK bracket but one piece is still at the powder coaters so will finish it next week.
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#446 11 days ago

Needs more red.

#447 9 days ago

Ran into an issue with the shooter coil. First of all someone really jacked up this connection. Looks like something went wrong and then they unwrapped the coil and hooked it back up.
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The continuity wasn't solid so I was going to repair it and then I realized it was the wrong coil. Its supposed to be a 23-800.
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I went ahead and cleaned it up and set it aside until I replace the coil. I will put connectors on all the coils that I had to cut wires to remove.
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Now to the scoop holes. I want to protect the scoop edges now that they are repaired. I originally bought Cliffys to put on bit I read several things about the cliffys making the holes harder to hit because the ball will jump the hole. I am going to try something else. I am going to use the Mantis protectors. I am also going to mylar the edges in hopes that it will give it some extra protection. If I see any wear developing then I will throw the Cliffys on.

First thing was to cut out custom designed mylar pieces. Its actually not mylar. It was made by another pinball company that I don't think it in business anymore. I like it because it removes easier than mylar. I have had some on other machines for several years and it still looks good.
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I put strips on the sides off all the scoops with half inside and half outside the edge. Its a little hard to see in the pics. But I guess that's good.
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Next, I installed the Mantis protectors. The protectors cover the mylar on the inside of the scoop. The only problem I have with them in that one of the "A" scoop protector's mooting tabs sits under the scoop mechanism so it wont fit flush with the playfield. I will end up modifying the mech to fit like its supposed to.
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Seems like on all DE games, the larger wire guides always look like crap. I cleaned them up using a wire wheel and then a lot of elbow grease with some Never Dull and I think they look pretty good.
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#448 9 days ago

Got the metal rails installed.
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#450 8 days ago

Worked on the scoop mechanism. I think something was spilled down this thing. Somebody must have been working on it and spilled their Dr. Pepper.
You can also see that the top part of the scoops were not at the same angle. That is also probably the reason the plastic behind the right one was broken. you can also see the ball marks on the metal.
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Yummy
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One problem I ran into was the mantis protector had one of the tabs in the way. The mech would not sit level with the bottom of the playfield.
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So what I did was mark where the tab was on the mounting bracket.
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Then I cut out a notch. Even if I take the protectors off, this notch will not be a factor.
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I cleaned up all the metal and then sanded the scoops with 2000 grit sand paper with fine cut cleaner and then 2500 grit with swirl remover. It polished them up pretty nice and removed the ball marks. Also found a crack in the metal on the back of the right scoop. I drilled a small hole at the end of the crack. This should relive the stress on the crack and hopefully stop it from progressing. The hole is low enough in the scoop that I don't think it will be visible from the normal player position. I will look around and see if I can find a new one but I doubt they are available. You can also see that the ball marks are gone. I didn't bother sanding the lower half because you cant see it.
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All cleaned up and reassembled.
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Installed and you can see how it sits over the mantis mounting tab.
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Of course I got it all mounted and then I realized I did not install the smart scoop light mod. So I took it back out and installed the lights.
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The mod calls for using alligator clips to hook up the lights. I don't use alligator clips so I soldered two wires where the clips were supposed to go and then put a connector on them to install the mod. This way I can unhook the mod if needed and I don't have to worry about clips coming off or touching something they shouldn't.
Dscf6185 (resized).jpg

The board for the left scoop mounts nicely on the bracket with some adhesive foam.
Dscf6186 (resized).jpg

Once again, used a connector for the center scoop.
Dscf6189 (resized).jpg

The board for the center is supposed to be stuck to the underside of the playfield. I just don't trust sticky tape with a 25 year old piece of wood that was filty and cleaned. So I used a zip tie with a screw mount and then screwed it to the playfield.
Dscf6187 (resized).jpg

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