Montreal, QC
Wicked job on that shooter lane!
(Topic ID: 169818)
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Jurassic Park
Data East, 1993
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Bryant, AR
Playfield is DONE.
I'm not sure what is wrong with my camera but I just cant get the colors as vibrant as they are on the playfield. Especially the Orange. This thing really pops.
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I will let it sit for 2 or 3 weeks and then I will sand it to get it perfect and then buff to a mirror shine.
I will now get back to working on the cabinet while the clear cures.
Quoted from bflagg:Hey Lon, I have this sticker if you need it. It's new, don't have a JP anymore. Let me know and I'll mail it to you.
I appreciate the offer. I was able to pick up all but 2 new decals a couple of years ago and the apron was one of them. I am having new ones printed for the couple that I don't have (the grass on the upper TRex shelf) but thanks for offering. That's one of the things that makes this hobby so good is people offering to help each other out.
I went through the boards and reflowed the solder and checked connections. There were a couple of questionable repairs so I checked all that and mounted the boards. That Pinsound loks pretty good in there. 
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The red start button and smart missile button were dull from use. I decided to see if I could fix the start button because new ones are available if needed. I like the soda that was spilled as mentioned above.
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I used the same technique as when I clear. I wet sanded the surface up to 5000 grit and then buffed with medium/light/swirl remover. Then added a coat of wax.
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Did the same with the smart Missile button.
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Sorry, the picture is a little blurry but you can see the shine.
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Got the new backbox ground wires installed. The old ones looked like crap so I decided to use green ground wire instead of the braid. I know I don't need to use the plastic sleeve anymore because the wire is no longer exposed but I installed new plastic tube to keep with the look of the original and dress it up a bit.
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Got the power box installed. The game is a re-import from Germany and had a foreign aux plug on it.
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I got rid of it and bought a plug to install on the metal box
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The game also had two fuses since it was using 220 volt originally. I did not want to leave an empty hole so I decided to rewire and put the aux plug on a fuse even though it normally is not fused. Re wired everything and tested it all out and also installed the power cord and harness in the cabinet. I still have to run the ground braid on that side when it comes in.
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Quoted from Lonzo:Got the new backbox ground wires installed. The old ones looked like crap so I decided to use green ground wire instead of the braid. I know I don't need to use the plastic sleeve anymore because the wire is no longer exposed but I installed new plastic tube to keep with the look of the original and dress it up a bit.
Got the power box installed. The game is a re-import from Germany and had a foreign aux plug on it.
I got rid of it and bought a plug to install on the metal box
The game also had two fuses since it was using 220 volt originally. I did not want to leave an empty hole so I decided to rewire and put the aux plug on a fuse even though it normally is not fused. Re wired everything and tested it all out and also installed the power cord and harness in the cabinet. I still have to run the ground braid on that side when it comes in.
Do you actually have more pics inside the powersupply / wiring? Mine too is German and I want to put the proper service plug and replace the power cord as it's been cut at some point and ground pin cut off. Been too busy to start poking around myself.
Quoted from Meloyelo51:Do you actually have more pics inside the powersupply / wiring? Mine too is German and I want to put the proper service plug and replace the power cord as it's been cut at some point and ground pin cut off. Been too busy to start poking around myself.
No. I didn't take any of the wiring. I guess I just didn't think it was that exciting. Lol. I have to pull the box off to run that ground braid so I will try and take some pictures. Basically I did white as common for the RF modulator and the aux plug. Then daisy chained the black to each fuse and then attached the RF modulator to one fuse and the aux plug to the other fuse.
Installed the backbox locking mechanism.
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installed the backbox light board latch with a black bolt.
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I don't go crazy on the side rail tape. I have taken enough of those off that I don't create more work for myself in the future if I have to take them off.
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Side rails and lockdown installed. Also installed the coin door frame with black bolts. The coin door is black. Also installed leg protectors.
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Got almost all of the cabinet wiring installed. I will wait on the front right of the machine until I get the ground braid installed. The flipper board will not be installed until the playfield is in. I do not want to take a change of damaging it. Knocker will be installed tomorrow.
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Quoted from Plumonium:I'm usually not a fan of bright color armor but this thing looks good!
Thanks. Normally I am doing black on games that had stainless etc. I am not a fan of black on black and I really like contrast so I thought I would give this one a shot since red is my favorite color. Lol
Cool thing about it is that nothing is permanent so i figured it was worth it to try it. Of course then I just lost control and did all the little parts on the inside. 
Quoted from Lonzo:Cool. I remember talking to you. I don't know what most people's pinside name is. Lol
I have the same issue I wonder if there’s any way there can be an agreement amongst some pinsider to have their names and their usernames easily referenced
Quoted from C65Mustang:I have the same issue I wonder if there’s any way there can be an agreement amongst some pinsider to have their names and their usernames easily referenced
Not sure if you meant for in person or on the site...but you can generate and print a Pinside badge for events that can have both real and Pinside name from your profile page.
Made a few enhancements to the cabinet. All cosmetic just to make it look sharper. I was not happy with how the wire bundle just laid sloppily behind the coin box so I added some wire holders to make it a little nicer.
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Since I don't have the backbox hinges on yet, I had to use the backbox bolts to secure the head. When I was a Lowes today, I found these and they work perfect. Very easy to use and look nice.
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The original coin door was an absolute mess and the wiring was butchered. The right coin chute wires were cut off at the top and there were even some red electrical tape fixes. I decided to order a new coin door rather than have to do metal hammering.
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Coin door is ready to be installed.
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I'm not sure how I missed this when I took this apart, but something doesn't look right. 
I will replace the entire plug later.
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Finished and installed. I planned on replacing the yellow coin insert slots with red but the new ones are smaller that the old ones. I will wait and see what it looks like when I power it up. Since yellow is in the theme, it might look good anyways. The old coin door frame was in good shape so that is actually what I had powder coated red. I have the new black one as well so I have the option to change it too all black after the machine is done.
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Instead of going with a ready made speaker upgrade, I ordered my own upgraded speakers. I might add a undercab powered sub as well. I will see how it sounds and decide when the machine is done.
I added the 12v transformer that will power any mod requiring 12 volts. I do not take power from the boards if at all possible. I also added the red split loom around the wire bundles. This will replace all the black split loom.
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Started experimenting with lighting options for the "When Dinosaurs Ruled The Earth" sign. This illuminated it really well but had too much side reflection so I will experiment with some other options. I also might fabricate a bracket to attach to the top of the backboard. If I use an illuminated clear backboard then I might have to come up with another solution.
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When I had a JP years ago, I made a box out of abs plastic to house an led strip. Used double stick tape to mount the plastic to it and it bolted into place. Worked great with no bleed or unwanted reflection. The pic has some bleed that was before the tape was on it.
I liked the bleed when I had it because it illuminated the backboard somewhat. Sounds like you are doing something much cooler...?
Quoted from bflagg:When I had a JP years ago, I made a box out of abs plastic to house an led strip. Used double stick tape to mount the plastic to it and it bolted into place. Worked great with no bleed or unwanted reflection. The pic has some bleed that was before the tape was on it.
Very nice. I was thinking something along those lines. I can't decide if I want to light up the front of the back panel or replace the wood with acrylic and light it from behind. If I do the acrylic, then I would definitly do a setup similar to yours. If you light the backmpanel from the front then I could probably just use one light. I just want to cut out the reflections off the side for sure.
I got the power wiring installed and fired up the power supply to test the voltages. Everything looked good so I installed the rest of the power wires in and booted up the main board. Houston we have a problem. Before I tore down the machine, I was getting an adjustment switch problem. At random times, the machine will go into the adjustment menu and continuously scroll through the adjustments. It was like the switch was being held down. I was hoping that after I went through everything, the problem would be solved but I am still having the problem. I pulled out the board and put it on my test rig and I am still having the problem so I know it is an issue with the board and there is nothing hooked up but the power and DMD. I will have to do some research and see if it might be a chip or something else. I have a few ideas and hope to test later.
A couple of years ago I built 2 test rigs, one for System 11 and one for WPC. I can test a DE board in the System 11 rig but normally I use F14 roms so I can display it on the system 11 displays. In this situation, I really wanted to see the DMD so I thought outside the box a little and decided to use the machine to power the DMD and the rig to power the board. 
Time for a speaker upgrade.
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Everything installed.
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I ended up having to put some vinyl spacers in because the center dome sticks out farther out than the rim. You can also see the green ground wires instead of the ugly braids.
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Here is the cabinet speaker.
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Finally got the grill in and painted. Should be ready to install tomorrow.
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Cant test the sound board until I get the playfield in since the speaker connections are in that wire bundle.
Got the backbox hinges installed. Instead of going with red which is what most people do, I decided to go with gloss black so the side rails have a nice "trim" look without having the extra color at the end. Used red bolts for some contrast.
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Also did red washers between the hinge and the cabinet.
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Quoted from lb1:No speaker lighting?
I thought about it and it's still a possibilily but I do not like them when I play. I hate stuff reflecting off the glass. I forgot to mention that I put a polarized filter on the DMD so it does not show up on the playfield glass. I will also modify the backbox GI lights to shut off during gameplay. Flashers will still work.
For me, the only option for this game is white/warm white for the speakers because I do not like how colored lighting changes the color of artwork. That is why I use nothing but warm white for playfield GI, I like to see the art. I think the colored speaker lights look good on games with black speakers/covers. Also, if I added them I would cut them off during gameplay.
Quoted from PACMAN:Spectacular work all around. Its nice to see other people as crazy as me working on these things
My JP cabinet could use some sprucing up. Would you sell me a set of your cabinet stencil decals?
Well, I am all about contributing to the hobby but I don't want to make people mad by doing something that I am not supposed to do. I don't really want to talk to a Lawyer. They are not stencils but multi piece vinyl decals. The main sides are pretty easy because all the art is larger but due to the complicity of the backbox tree area and the micro red lettering on the front of the cabinet, they are not really "plug and play" if you will. I have the ability to cut a decal multiple times if a piece doesn't transfer correctly. The same problem occurs with my Fire artwork. Just a ton of small pieces that are difficult to get right.
Quoted from Meloyelo51:Do you actually have more pics inside the powersupply / wiring? Mine too is German and I want to put the proper service plug and replace the power cord as it's been cut at some point and ground pin cut off. Been too busy to start poking around myself.
I hope this picture is clear enough to see what you need to see.
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I got the ground braid installed on the right side of the cabinet so I can finish the wiring on that side.
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Got the main cabinet speaker installed.
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I rewired the auxiliary power supply to 14 gauge color matching wire and also put a fuse in the line. I have 2 power distribution blocks on the way that will allow me to easily connect multiple things to this power supply and keep track of everything.
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I got the lights installed for the flipper buttons.
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Quoted from Lonzo:Time for a speaker upgrade.
What Pyle speakers did you use for the upgrade?
Quoted from waldo34:What Pyle speakers did you use for the upgrade?
These are the ones I am using for the backbox.
https://www.parts-express.com/pyle-pl42bl-blue-label-4-coaxial-speaker-pair--267-078
This is the cabinet speaker
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dcs205-4-8-classic-subwoofer-4-ohm--295-200
Quoted from Lonzo:These are the ones I am using for the backbox.
https://www.parts-express.com/pyle-pl42bl-blue-label-4-coaxial-speaker-pair--267-078
This is the cabinet speaker
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dcs205-4-8-classic-subwoofer-4-ohm--295-200
Will these work with the factory sound board, or do you have to be running the upgraded "Pinsounds" board?
Quoted from Lonzo:These are the ones I am using for the backbox.
These are going to be fine, but next time, try to find something with better sensitivity, up to 96 db per watt. I did not pay attention to that when I ordered mine as well.
The game audio output is very low so it makes the most of it.
Quoted from Plumonium:These are going to be fine, but next time, try to find something with better sensitivity, up to 96 db per watt. I did not pay attention to that when I ordered mine as well.
The game audio output is very low so it makes the most of it.
I have a buddy that got these for his VP and liked them and the reviews were pretty good so I figured I would try them. I figured that Pin sounds are not all that high def so I figure it has to be an improvement. lol
If I am not happy with them, then I will just put them in one of my other pins and get different ones.
I tested out the new topper. The pictures don't really show the colors correctly. The Letters are red and the rest is yellow. It looks really cool.
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Installed the relays that will control the Backbox GI and will shut them off during gameplay.
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I got my new wiring in today so I hope to be able to finish the cabinet wiring up.
Quoted from Plumonium:These are going to be fine, but next time, try to find something with better sensitivity, up to 96 db per watt. I did not pay attention to that when I ordered mine as well.
The game audio output is very low so it makes the most of it.
Do you have any specific suggestions for those following the thread?
Quoted from comment23:Do you have any specific suggestions for those following the thread?
Well, what is suggested me is to get the best efficiency speaker I could get in that size. Also the type of cone makes a difference if I remember. He suggested to look for "infinite baffle" type of speaker for this low current application.
Most importantly, 2 things: to get the most of it and really notice a difference, he strongly suggested adding a woofer amp like these:
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sa25-25w-subwoofer-plate-amplifier--300-782
They have it in 50 and 75w as well but 25w is a lot. They have built in crossover as well.
Finally, he said that unless adding an amp or the original speaker is significantly damaged, that the original speaker would probably outperformed most newer stuff since they where designed specially for this low current application.
He finished by saying that what I got was a bad choice
https://www.amazon.ca/Pyramid-WX65X-6-5-Inch-Injected-Woofer/dp/B000EFMPCW/ref=pd_sbs_107_4
Actually, more like a cosmetic upgrade than an actual audio upgrade.
Got my connectors in so I finished up the wiring for the Backbox GI control.
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Here is the kinda crap you come up with when your wife has major knee surgery and you are helping take care of her and you are watching a Hallmark movie with her while on the computer.
Cut some vinyl and printed a T-Rex emblem.
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Blank Speaker - Boring
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You can see part of my 12v power distribution set up for mods but I forgot to take some pictures so I will show that later.
Quoted from Lonzo:Got my connectors in so I finished up the wiring for the Backbox GI control.
Here is the kinda crap you come up with when your wife has major knee surgery and you are helping take care of her and you are watching a Hallmark movie with her while on the computer.
Cut some vinyl and printed a T-Rex emblem.Blank Speaker - Boring
You can see part of my 12v power distribution set up for mods but I forgot to take some pictures so I will show that later.
What are the red and black things to the right of the speaker? Is that like a power strip for extra lighting? Did a miss a previous post?
Quoted from woody24:What are the red and black things to the right of the speaker?
Quoted from Lonzo:You can see part of my 12v power distribution set up for mods but I forgot to take some pictures so I will show that later.
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